I wish I had watched your video before I bought my first rc race car. The local guys told me to get a CRC CK25 and all I do is crash. I have so much more fun with my Tamiya Euro truck and it was half the price and doesn't require so much tuning! 😂. You had me laughing quite a bit. Great video!
I've returned to racing after a ~13 year break. Used to race the Associated B4 off road at regional level, the Associated TC4 (although started on a Tamiya TA03, then TA04, then Associated TC3) at club level and Serpent 710/720 (and briefly the Associated NTC3) at national level. All components I used to use were top of the range for the time. I've come back with the TC4 running the same 27T motor and ESC I always used to, with exception of a modern LiPo rather than NiMH. Even the tyres are the original 13yr old ones I'd kept in a box and using the same traction compound that was also left in my box. At club level I was putting in times not far off guys running the latest chassis and 13.5T brushless. The obsolescence of chassis' in RC racing is a scheme to stimulate money - nothing more. If you're getting into the hobby look at older chassis' that are being sold, often with a huge compliment of spares. Build up your skills, get your average lap to be on par with your best lap. Work out what the adjustments do. When you're ready and if you want to then progress onto the top stuff go for it, but I'd always say to start cheap and build it up. I've seen far too many people pay £1000's on the top gear when they're new to the hobby and get frustrated that despite having the best stuff they can't keep up. Proof of the pudding, I entered last week a brand new TT02 type -S with a stock silver can motor I'd built for my son. Cheapest £5 servo and a £20 ESC. Lap times were 2 seconds off the top guys and they put in around 2-3 laps more, but they were running 13.5T brushless. You'd have expected the car to be a laughing stock yet the difference between my average and best lap was ~0.5s whereas theirs were up to 2s variation. Practice practice practice. It's like a cyclist getting a road bike 500g lighter than their last one, but paying £1000's for those grams, but the cyclist weighs 100kg+ and instead could just lose a bit of weight :) Beyond a point the £££'s have less and less impact on actual performance that only the elite or sponsored can afford.
For the most part unless you compete at a pro level that Sakura, X-ray, Tc7.2 etc is more than you need for most club level events (I’ve been to SoCal/NorCal RC club races that feel like a major race with all the big names just out practicing) I always tell anyone getting started racing RC run what you have, learn your car setup practice and continually improve your driving skills upgrade as your skills outgrow your equipment not the other way around . DON’T FORGET this whole thing we do it’s supposed to be fun I’ve personally moved away from that ultra competitive 17.5 class because it stopped being fun and am running F1, USGT & VTA the competition is just as fierce but the smiles per dollar factor is higher
In Sweden they have a rallycross class called folkrace in which anyone can place a bid on any car for a fixed sum and the owner is forced to sell. Is quite an interesting way to enforce a cost for class.
yep ran a TRF 417X for 6months in MOD then went to Spec class . . . . Cost Cost and More Cost .... Thought it would be cheaper than running in the Mod class . . . NOPE. I no longer race.... I will say that the SPEC CLASS is more fun... but still has a high cost.
Not saying you are wrong here, as you do have many valid points, however, an entry level car set up well will beat the most expensive car on the track .It’s the driver behind the controls. In fact nothing beats the feeling of victory over cars 5 times more expensive than what your driving. Although there are minor improvements in some chassis & equipment that do help, they all mean nothing if you’re a terrible driver. And yes I’ve trialed all examples also and have raced in state level competitions, and find racing on a budget more satisfying.
Totally agree with you. I used to run a TL01 competitively against the high end chassis. But nowadays there are so many good drivers, the difference is how well a car is set up and equipment used (e.g. sanwa radio, strong batteries/motors, fresh tires).
Hahaha... I saw Offroad World Champion Ty Tessman on the track at Red Deer beat everyone with a cheap Flysky loaner, some using USD$800 Sanwa/Airtronics and Futaba. Unfortunately most people now a days compensate hard work, skill and talent with the latest and greatest uber expensive equipment in a lot of different sports and hobbies. Anyway have fun and enjoy. Maraming Salamat.
4 years later, it’s nice to see that the investments into Porsha’s driving career have been paying off! Are you still racing these days, or have you made that transition into full time RC Dad/ mechanic? It always gets to a point where we have to make sacrifices for the benefit of our kids, but it’s always satisfying to see them do well. Continued good luck, my friend!
I started racing again as Porsha's Tamiya racing days are mainly done by winning the Asia Cup and going to Japan. Roles are reversing, she is now my mechanic :D
17.5 blinky is expensive because it's not restricted enough. Euro truck is a good example of cost effective racing as well as the Trinity street spec class in the 90's. Cheap and competitive! Miss racing. Have a collection of touring cars starting with an original TA-02SW and when i quit i was running a TCXX. Nice video!
Hello Sir, I'm just wanna start this hobby at age 34 , seems late yeah 😊 Your explanation is very nice and simple to understand. I also watch your video about tips on racing, very useful for newbie like me to learn. Greetings from Indonesia
Thanks my friend and your right better equipment makes different but is more expensive but in A-Main you need better equipment. As a beginner a 3Racing Advance S64 is good enough and easy to drive. I drive an S64 and a T4 21 and i like to drive both cars. The S64 has 4.5T because parts are verry cheap compare with Xray ;) Have fun and stay safe!
People that "donate free stuff" and a sponsor isn´t the same thing. The hobby is pretty much pay to win. The "skill" accually involved in quiet low in this sport. Tell me what you want, but its relatively easy to learn and get good by just doing a few races a week. Setup, electronic tweeking, esc settings, control/steering settings is by far what takes the longest to learn, and if you have a few guys to help you out getting the right settings, it will take litterally no time to learn... But being able to do all of these tweeks requies expensive equipment as the cheaper solutions doesnt have these features. That is in my opinion why this hobby is way to much "Pay to Win".... BUT its still fun :)
Racing is another level. I have been an RC basher for quite sometime now, creating videos as well, I guess majority of basher wanted to try racing however the main issue is the budget. KABAYAN I hope you could share which budget rig we can start with for bashers like me who wish to jump into touring. Thanks for sharing some valuable tips. God bless and and more power to your channel
Some cheap touring cars from 3racing ($100 range). Tamiya TT01 is also a good starter kit. Unfortunately racing can be expensive, myself sometimes I buy a good 2nd hand chassis. Electronics and batteries can be relatively cheap nowadays compared to years past.
your final comments hit the nail on the head, where entry costs for touring car racing is too high for most people. Only the die hards will fork out the money for next gen stuff, and what is the reward? Filling the pockets of others. For club racing skill and nerves need to be the separating factor to keep things interesting. There is nothing more thrilling than having to fight nerves from taking over and trying not to make that one mistake while trying to outdrive an opponent. This feeling is best when there is parity in equipment. Its disappointing when you can't get enough racers together for a night of club racing, at a track that is open two nights a week for practice as well. Anyhow, thanks for this video and if you feel like watching races from Calgary, subscribe to my channel. I post every week if I go racing.
Every club needs a stock out of the box traxxas 4tec class to get in younger people and new people then once you get them hooked on racing they will buy a touring car
tamiya euro trucks are popular, rules vary slightly by track, but the general rules are "build it exactly like the instructions tell you, only upgrades allow are bearings" also check out VTA(vintage trans am) you can run any touring car, have to use their tires, use specific body. motors from a list, esc just requires "blinky mode" the tires are really the limiting factor, you can pickup an old TC3 and be competitive.
@@justinbevier8231 yeah but euro trucks sort of drive like garbage Imo and most tracks run usgt classes now and it's just a slower tc class that's why a box stock 4tec would be good, also a newbie might not want to build a kit for euro truck
I have a cost related question I hope you can help with. I’m thinking of getting my first on road touring car (I have Xray buggies 2019 XB4 & XB2 both purchased second hand). I also like Tamiya as I know you do. But for my first would you say better to buy second hand Xray T4 2018 or new Tamiya TT01e and tune it like you have? The cost is similar.
I am starting usgt, and I already had a sst2000 fully hopped up chassis I was given. For all the spec electronics a radio enough spare parts to build two other cars, two bodies two nice batteries ten rear/front belts a nice dual charger, three sets of legal wheels and tires and tools and oils, springs, gearing, etc etc etc it cost me 1000 USD. Maybe it was not a good idea to start with a 23 year old chassis but it's got every adjustment possible and that what I had, so... Maybe when I know how to drive ill upgrade to a modern one and get a nice Sanwa 😁
hey man, best video; i just want to bring my entry level tamiya to the track to race for fun, not too fussed if i come last, just want to go around a track; i'm sure that will be okay :)
i think the answer the problem that rc is becoming a pay to win sport is to make a stock spec class racing, thiswill highlight drivers skill and set up rather than shelling out a fortune first just to be competitive.
If you want a premium radio, noble NB4 is great. It has all the options, its very fast, its ambidextrous, and you can make it work in any type of car. Its not cheap, but its a top grade radio for mid grade price. Motor: a motor is a motor. The same specs from different brands are gonna perform basically the same. Same windings, same kv, etc will be the same performance. Thats why those specs are listed. FORGET brand, a surpass hobby motor works fine. Anything else is gonna be such a minimal improvement you won't see the difference. Its just psychosomatic. A better ESC may make a huge difference, but the motor probably won't. Ypu can also get fairly cheap servos with high specs, just make sure to compare their spec sheet carefully and you'll be able to get a good fast and high torque one for under 30. They may not last AS long,, but they'll be fine to start out and wont handicap you on the track.
Haha Sanwa, ya it’s fast even for just mt-s with oem Rx 😂 just got back into touring 13.5 after 10 years with ultra cero after my local offroad carpet track got closed down.. I would say it’s a money game on touring 😂
There is the Tamiya race series, a 1-make class, but it is also pretty expensive. I used to organize F1 racing with focus on cheap and I managed to attract an average of 20 racers for 20 race events in 1 year. Another way is to buy second hand equipment, which is what I normally do for racing.
leo san juan - Tamiya parts develop some slop after the initial build. When that happens. Re-shim everything and your good to go. And just a heads up. The Hobbywing just stock is fine for blinky classes
@@rccartips mt-4s still works. I had M12 which was broken after 1.5year,wifi high power end part get broken, distance was max 8 meters, then signal lost. Probably issue from overheat on pcb board or whatever. Now, how to fix it when I have 'customer rights', send from PL to DE, then from DE to Japan, then back. Total price for fix 220-250 euro. I will not tell how but I got this pcb part from Japan, total price 30 euro and some vodka. Then I fixed it. Now it is nice toy which I do not belive that I can trust to it when I race 10th onroad nitro car ... I tested it but I do not belive for it. Now, MT-4S is fast, cheap, light and reliable radio. Just fine for me (low skilled driver). I know that I can trust this radio for speed, acuracy and range. No issues, total price was less then official fix cost. I will go to M17 when this platform will be at last 1.5y old, because I like this style. But not now. I am aware about pcb size, overheat or something notknown which can brick very expensive radio. As you told in move, want drive fast then money limit is sky, I woulnd not go there. Get new peoples for racing is very hard trick, like you told about yours 17.5t blinky class. But there is nice class to ride, wgt, I mean pan car 200mm wide on foams, GT style body, 10.5T 2S blinky. Too fast for me, but there SKILLS, SETUP and at last place electronics play the game. Thanks for your replay! Michal.
@@rccartips anyway, with MT-4 or MT-4S do you fill that with avesotomatix car (and fast as hell electronics) you can go faster on M17 radio or not? Just asking.
You can go faster with faster electronics (e.g. M17) only if your are good enough driver to get the timing and speed correct. My daughter had same laptimes on first time out with M17 versus her old MT4. But given enough time to get used to the speed she said she could go faster. I tried the M17 and at my age I felt it was too fast and MT4 was good enough for my driving level.
Hi man,good points ,nice video and sorry for your disappointing for your race ,i do not go for expensive items ,like remote charger etc,what im after is on the skills once you have a chassis setup to perfect and driving skill is brilliant and knowing your settings and track
Hi there, I’m looking at re-starting my hobby. I have a pre-owned ta05 with some hop ups. I haven’t used it in a while and would like ur advice on what I’m to do and if you could recommend me a good servo/esc/motor combo. I’m a beginner. Happy new year!
Help, I’m struggling getting advice on what would be several good ready to run touring cars for under 300.........I found old threads talking about TC4 and such but those are all discontinued. What are some modelsI should look at
Just get a Tamiya Euro truck. You have to build it but it comes with a motor. I bought the digital screen Dumbo RC transmitter, a $25 hobby wing esc and some batteries and a charger. That set up will be just under or close to the 300.
All the best equipment in the world cant help if you dont know how to set it up . I run a cheap rtr TC3 with novak 13.5 and a diled setup and make A mains . im not dropping 700$ to gain 3 tenths on a Sunday club race.
I feel like on-road is a little less newbie friendly, while offroad can be a little more catering to the new people. I wish another class like the RTR slash class would come. they used to race those things on road and offroad just for a good time.
I know this is an old comment, but now my local club ( and a few others i know of ) are running a stock tamiya tt02 class . That's about as cheap as it gets and so much fun . Even the top guys have bought one .
419XR should be faster in the hands of expert drivers. But for club racing Sakura is good enough. It's all about who can accept the fact to pay $30 / set of tires that will be fast for only 15 minutes or less :)
@@Max-hy9ud The higher the track grip the bigger the gap. Big enough that it is noticeable. But if your track is low/med grip, you might not notice a difference.
The way i see it, in order to get a decent brand like serpent , Mugen, Xray etc and a decent chassis , nitro or electric we are looking from €500 to €700 euros that minus the wheels, engine, electrics, servo’s, reciever , transmitter and a transponder, fuel or batteries. A nitro engine ( a good one ) like NovaRossi is close to €300 euros alone , for electric i dont thinks its that cheaper either. But i think they are always some compromises and that value for money Cars. Like the italian brand BMT. A 1/0 electric touring starts at 249 euros which is not that bad, and looks also well made compared to a 500euros serpent Medius X20. So There are brands that are trying, but people should start to buy these brands aswell not with the mentality that if its not a Mugen or an Xray then its trash.
Go to buy a team Magic E4JS Buy there in a motor Combo Hobbbwing XR10 10'5T "Servo a Savox-1251MG Transmiter Sanwa MT44 Tires No yet idea What tests cheap Build but have no money tree and it's pure fun for track no tournament gear ratio 31/80 so a project of net 360Euro excluding transmitter I have already a while
Pretty easy for me to obtain a TA07 or TRF419, and I can spec it to do drift or roadrace. Buy once and don't buy another one(except when you want another one!) [edit: I don't have money yet.]
I myself played 1/8 nitro buggy...seriously...i never encouraged my daughter to go into these kind of hobby..i rather have my daughter go through college ...finished her 2 years..then later..go to a local university..studied medicine to become a doctor/profesional rather than waste her time in these hobby in which my country does not promised any form of future prospect.✌
I guess it depends on a persons skill level. At the top level competition, yes. For amateurs and club racers like me, the M12S is already fast. Personally me and my daughter went back to an MT4 because it was 150 grams lighter. MT4 + good futaba servo + SHS mode = pretty fast enough :D
You hand will feel it (heavier).... hahaha. Just be careful initially, the steering response will be faster, so you might crash your car into a corner (my daughter did it). The timing of when to turn the steering wheel will be different and your car will be twitchier.
rccartips ok, tested the M12S and it Feels amazing! It feels slightly faster, better to controll and just awesome! And yes, i crashed at the First battery on the evening xD but Not because of the M12, i Tested one of the new HDF Bodys from zooracing and haven‘t had in mind how high the steering is at high Speed! Well... After close comes take off... ;)
I've never heard xray described as mid level... Multiple times world champs in different classes but they're mid range? Hmm... Not sure I agree with that
At that time compared to the price of the Awesomatix it was way cheaper. But on performance it is top, my daughter is usually winning against newest cars with the T42018.
I am comparing cheap (electronics + car) versus expensive (electronics + car). How a cheap car with cheap electronics compared against expensive cars with expensive electronics. It is not meant to be a purely car chassis comparison.
I wish I had watched your video before I bought my first rc race car. The local guys told me to get a CRC CK25 and all I do is crash. I have so much more fun with my Tamiya Euro truck and it was half the price and doesn't require so much tuning! 😂. You had me laughing quite a bit. Great video!
Thanks. Fun for sure.
I like how he actually tells you why it’s better and actually gets into detail unlike some other RUclipsrs who just tell you it’s better.
I've returned to racing after a ~13 year break. Used to race the Associated B4 off road at regional level, the Associated TC4 (although started on a Tamiya TA03, then TA04, then Associated TC3) at club level and Serpent 710/720 (and briefly the Associated NTC3) at national level. All components I used to use were top of the range for the time.
I've come back with the TC4 running the same 27T motor and ESC I always used to, with exception of a modern LiPo rather than NiMH. Even the tyres are the original 13yr old ones I'd kept in a box and using the same traction compound that was also left in my box. At club level I was putting in times not far off guys running the latest chassis and 13.5T brushless.
The obsolescence of chassis' in RC racing is a scheme to stimulate money - nothing more. If you're getting into the hobby look at older chassis' that are being sold, often with a huge compliment of spares. Build up your skills, get your average lap to be on par with your best lap. Work out what the adjustments do. When you're ready and if you want to then progress onto the top stuff go for it, but I'd always say to start cheap and build it up. I've seen far too many people pay £1000's on the top gear when they're new to the hobby and get frustrated that despite having the best stuff they can't keep up.
Proof of the pudding, I entered last week a brand new TT02 type -S with a stock silver can motor I'd built for my son. Cheapest £5 servo and a £20 ESC. Lap times were 2 seconds off the top guys and they put in around 2-3 laps more, but they were running 13.5T brushless. You'd have expected the car to be a laughing stock yet the difference between my average and best lap was ~0.5s whereas theirs were up to 2s variation. Practice practice practice. It's like a cyclist getting a road bike 500g lighter than their last one, but paying £1000's for those grams, but the cyclist weighs 100kg+ and instead could just lose a bit of weight :) Beyond a point the £££'s have less and less impact on actual performance that only the elite or sponsored can afford.
Already sold the Awesomatix and Xray, now focusing on racing with a TT01 :D
2 seconds slower is HUUUGE.
@johncrow5552 depends on the track size and lap times. 2 seconds on a 10 second lap, yes. 2 seconds on a 30 second lap, not so much
I am enjoying watching almost all your videos! Thank you! Mabuhay ka!
Salamat :)
For the most part unless you compete at a pro level that Sakura, X-ray, Tc7.2 etc is more than you need for most club level events (I’ve been to SoCal/NorCal RC club races that feel like a major race with all the big names just out practicing) I always tell anyone getting started racing RC run what you have, learn your car setup practice and continually improve your driving skills upgrade as your skills outgrow your equipment not the other way around .
DON’T FORGET this whole thing we do it’s supposed to be fun I’ve personally moved away from that ultra competitive 17.5 class because it stopped being fun and am running F1, USGT & VTA the competition is just as fierce but the smiles per dollar factor is higher
You give very good advice :)
This guy I like. Very practical and smart. It is an expensive sport. It's all relative. It is what it is!!!! Lol Have fun.
In Sweden they have a rallycross class called folkrace in which anyone can place a bid on any car for a fixed sum and the owner is forced to sell. Is quite an interesting way to enforce a cost for class.
That's interesting. Did it work?
That sounds like the claiming races you see alot at the horse track. So many variables go into trying to pick the winner.
@@rccartips sorry for late reply. Yes, it's a well established class with many forums and youtube footage.
I m glad you did this it's the most honest video I ve seen regarding this hobby. You said it right reality is what it is.
Thanks :)
I wish 1/10 touring cars were still popular here in FL. I had so much fun racing these 18 years ago.
I wish I saw this when I started many years ago, thanks
yep ran a TRF 417X for 6months in MOD then went to Spec class . . . . Cost Cost and More Cost .... Thought it would be cheaper than running in the Mod class . . . NOPE. I no longer race.... I will say that the SPEC CLASS is more fun... but still has a high cost.
Not saying you are wrong here, as you do have many valid points, however, an entry level car set up well will beat the most expensive car on the track .It’s the driver behind the controls. In fact nothing beats the feeling of victory over cars 5 times more expensive than what your driving. Although there are minor improvements in some chassis & equipment that do help, they all mean nothing if you’re a terrible driver. And yes I’ve trialed all examples also and have raced in state level competitions, and find racing on a budget more satisfying.
Totally agree with you. I used to run a TL01 competitively against the high end chassis. But nowadays there are so many good drivers, the difference is how well a car is set up and equipment used (e.g. sanwa radio, strong batteries/motors, fresh tires).
Hahaha... I saw Offroad World Champion Ty Tessman on the track at Red Deer beat everyone with a cheap Flysky loaner, some using USD$800 Sanwa/Airtronics and Futaba. Unfortunately most people now a days compensate hard work, skill and talent with the latest and greatest uber expensive equipment in a lot of different sports and hobbies. Anyway have fun and enjoy. Maraming Salamat.
Thanks for all your help and guidance to the local Philippine Touring car community through all these years. Subscribed.
Thanks. Laro tayo :)
rccartips See you at STR! 🙂
4 years later, it’s nice to see that the investments into Porsha’s driving career have been paying off! Are you still racing these days, or have you made that transition into full time RC Dad/ mechanic? It always gets to a point where we have to make sacrifices for the benefit of our kids, but it’s always satisfying to see them do well. Continued good luck, my friend!
I started racing again as Porsha's Tamiya racing days are mainly done by winning the Asia Cup and going to Japan. Roles are reversing, she is now my mechanic :D
17.5 blinky is expensive because it's not restricted enough. Euro truck is a good example of cost effective racing as well as the Trinity street spec class in the 90's. Cheap and competitive! Miss racing. Have a collection of touring cars starting with an original TA-02SW and when i quit i was running a TCXX. Nice video!
Tires is the expensive item. Two sets for a single club race is crazy.
great video my local track has introduced FWD championship to lower cost of entry and skill level
Hello Sir,
I'm just wanna start this hobby at age 34 , seems late yeah 😊
Your explanation is very nice and simple to understand. I also watch your video about tips on racing, very useful for newbie like me to learn. Greetings from Indonesia
Hope it helps and good luck on your racing :)
Thanks my friend and your right better equipment makes different but is more expensive but in A-Main you need better equipment. As a beginner a 3Racing Advance S64 is good enough and easy to drive. I drive an S64 and a T4 21 and i like to drive both cars. The S64 has 4.5T because parts are verry cheap compare with Xray ;) Have fun and stay safe!
Right now I'm liking the Race Opt T3M. Half the price of the high end touring cars but performs very well.
People that "donate free stuff" and a sponsor isn´t the same thing. The hobby is pretty much pay to win. The "skill" accually involved in quiet low in this sport. Tell me what you want, but its relatively easy to learn and get good by just doing a few races a week. Setup, electronic tweeking, esc settings, control/steering settings is by far what takes the longest to learn, and if you have a few guys to help you out getting the right settings, it will take litterally no time to learn... But being able to do all of these tweeks requies expensive equipment as the cheaper solutions doesnt have these features. That is in my opinion why this hobby is way to much "Pay to Win".... BUT its still fun :)
I love it. I wish there was less product videos and more learning and fundamentals.
Racing is another level. I have been an RC basher for quite sometime now, creating videos as well, I guess majority of basher wanted to try racing however the main issue is the budget. KABAYAN I hope you could share which budget rig we can start with for bashers like me who wish to jump into touring. Thanks for sharing some valuable tips. God bless and and more power to your channel
Some cheap touring cars from 3racing ($100 range). Tamiya TT01 is also a good starter kit. Unfortunately racing can be expensive, myself sometimes I buy a good 2nd hand chassis. Electronics and batteries can be relatively cheap nowadays compared to years past.
@@rccartips Thanks for this valuable tips. I will definitely look into this models. Cheers
Hi. I like your review, it helps us to decide what to choose.
What about Spec R R1, do you think any good?
Thanks mate..
Have not tried a Spec R R1 sorry. But maybe this forum thread can help you out. www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/661953-spec-r-r1.html
I'm running the Xpress XQ1S, it's really the best cost to performance car right now at $99 from Rcmart.
your final comments hit the nail on the head, where entry costs for touring car racing is too high for most people. Only the die hards will fork out the money for next gen stuff, and what is the reward? Filling the pockets of others. For club racing skill and nerves need to be the separating factor to keep things interesting. There is nothing more thrilling than having to fight nerves from taking over and trying not to make that one mistake while trying to outdrive an opponent. This feeling is best when there is parity in equipment. Its disappointing when you can't get enough racers together for a night of club racing, at a track that is open two nights a week for practice as well. Anyhow, thanks for this video and if you feel like watching races from Calgary, subscribe to my channel. I post every week if I go racing.
It is becoming a rich man's sport. Nice track you have, but only 5 racers per main?
@@rccartips Last week, the turnout was low, however new videos you will see more drivers and more classes! The action was very good.
Yeah,you lost me at 700$ is cheap,buddy
Unless the non-Sanwa radio decides to glitch and destroy our $400 cars :D
Love the video brother. I would love to move out of Amerikkka!!!
Had good memories racing in Queens Off Roaders New York and nearby states back in college :)
I wish all the other content makes would make videos like this.
Many thanks.
Thanks for the information.
Wow! Great information and thank you for making this video. Do you know of any onroad rc tracks in Pampanga area?
Sorry not aware of any on-road tracks in Pampanga
For an absolute beginner would you recommend the Sakura?
Yes, it is relatively cheaper.
Every club needs a stock out of the box traxxas 4tec class to get in younger people and new people then once you get them hooked on racing they will buy a touring car
tamiya euro trucks are popular, rules vary slightly by track, but the general rules are "build it exactly like the instructions tell you, only upgrades allow are bearings"
also check out VTA(vintage trans am) you can run any touring car, have to use their tires, use specific body. motors from a list, esc just requires "blinky mode" the tires are really the limiting factor, you can pickup an old TC3 and be competitive.
@@justinbevier8231 yeah but euro trucks sort of drive like garbage Imo and most tracks run usgt classes now and it's just a slower tc class that's why a box stock 4tec would be good, also a newbie might not want to build a kit for euro truck
Tienes toda la razon
I have a cost related question I hope you can help with. I’m thinking of getting my first on road touring car (I have Xray buggies 2019 XB4 & XB2 both purchased second hand). I also like Tamiya as I know you do.
But for my first would you say better to buy second hand Xray T4 2018 or new Tamiya TT01e and tune it like you have?
The cost is similar.
I would go for the T4 :)
I am starting usgt, and I already had a sst2000 fully hopped up chassis I was given. For all the spec electronics a radio enough spare parts to build two other cars, two bodies two nice batteries ten rear/front belts a nice dual charger, three sets of legal wheels and tires and tools and oils, springs, gearing, etc etc etc it cost me 1000 USD. Maybe it was not a good idea to start with a 23 year old chassis but it's got every adjustment possible and that what I had, so... Maybe when I know how to drive ill upgrade to a modern one and get a nice Sanwa 😁
That's a good idea :)
@@rccartips thank you, coming from you it's great to hear! Your videos help alot, no bu**sh*t like a lot of other RUclipsrs! You say it like it is!
@@johnc1666 I enjoy the hobby since 1978 and just try to help. :D
hey man, best video; i just want to bring my entry level tamiya to the track to race for fun, not too fussed if i come last, just want to go around a track; i'm sure that will be okay :)
That would be great! Important is to show up :)
i think the answer the problem that rc is becoming a pay to win sport is to make a stock spec class racing, thiswill highlight drivers skill and set up rather than shelling out a fortune first just to be competitive.
I love this video.
If you want a premium radio, noble NB4 is great. It has all the options, its very fast, its ambidextrous, and you can make it work in any type of car. Its not cheap, but its a top grade radio for mid grade price.
Motor: a motor is a motor. The same specs from different brands are gonna perform basically the same. Same windings, same kv, etc will be the same performance. Thats why those specs are listed. FORGET brand, a surpass hobby motor works fine. Anything else is gonna be such a minimal improvement you won't see the difference. Its just psychosomatic. A better ESC may make a huge difference, but the motor probably won't. Ypu can also get fairly cheap servos with high specs, just make sure to compare their spec sheet carefully and you'll be able to get a good fast and high torque one for under 30. They may not last AS long,, but they'll be fine to start out and wont handicap you on the track.
Noble and surpass are popular in our local racing.
Haha Sanwa, ya it’s fast even for just mt-s with oem Rx 😂 just got back into touring 13.5 after 10 years with ultra cero after my local offroad carpet track got closed down..
I would say it’s a money game on touring 😂
Welcome back to touring. That's what money is for... buy speed :D
@@rccartips hehe just play for fun at KL SACC track..childhood hobby 😁
Is that the mall track? Do you know Dino S. ?
@@rccartips yes track at the mall roof top under Rc planet. Yes I know Dino, Andy etc. We are going to have FEMCA this weekend.. 😁
Maybe a 1-make novice class for beginners? I really want to get into this hobby, but the cost is too much.
There is the Tamiya race series, a 1-make class, but it is also pretty expensive. I used to organize F1 racing with focus on cheap and I managed to attract an average of 20 racers for 20 race events in 1 year. Another way is to buy second hand equipment, which is what I normally do for racing.
rccartips how is Tamiya durability now? I remember in the early 2000’s, their plastic parts weren’t very strong.
Depends on the kit. Some use the same plastics sa 2000 (e.g. re-releases). Some are durable (e.g. TRF kits, TT01).
leo san juan - Tamiya parts develop some slop after the initial build. When that happens. Re-shim everything and your good to go. And just a heads up. The Hobbywing just stock is fine for blinky classes
Club guys are always selling their older equipment. It's fun and stressful hobby..
That is true, futaba is slover on same car then sanwa mt-4, mt-4s or M12s, but on my level I will not go to m17 (overpriced), MT-4s still does job :D
I gave up the M17 and went back to my MT4 because it was over 100 grms lighter :)
@@rccartips mt-4s still works. I had M12 which was broken after 1.5year,wifi high power end part get broken, distance was max 8 meters, then signal lost. Probably issue from overheat on pcb board or whatever. Now, how to fix it when I have 'customer rights', send from PL to DE, then from DE to Japan, then back. Total price for fix 220-250 euro.
I will not tell how but I got this pcb part from Japan, total price 30 euro and some vodka.
Then I fixed it. Now it is nice toy which I do not belive that I can trust to it when I race 10th onroad nitro car ...
I tested it but I do not belive for it.
Now, MT-4S is fast, cheap, light and reliable radio. Just fine for me (low skilled driver).
I know that I can trust this radio for speed, acuracy and range. No issues, total price was less then official fix cost.
I will go to M17 when this platform will be at last 1.5y old, because I like this style. But not now. I am aware about pcb size, overheat or something notknown which can brick very expensive radio.
As you told in move, want drive fast then money limit is sky, I woulnd not go there.
Get new peoples for racing is very hard trick, like you told about yours 17.5t blinky class.
But there is nice class to ride, wgt, I mean pan car 200mm wide on foams, GT style body, 10.5T 2S blinky. Too fast for me, but there SKILLS, SETUP and at last place electronics play the game.
Thanks for your replay!
Michal.
@@rccartips anyway, with MT-4 or MT-4S do you fill that with avesotomatix car (and fast as hell electronics) you can go faster on M17 radio or not?
Just asking.
You can go faster with faster electronics (e.g. M17) only if your are good enough driver to get the timing and speed correct. My daughter had same laptimes on first time out with M17 versus her old MT4. But given enough time to get used to the speed she said she could go faster. I tried the M17 and at my age I felt it was too fast and MT4 was good enough for my driving level.
hi how about the mt-44, whats your opinion on it vs mt4 and m17?
Hi man,good points ,nice video and sorry for your disappointing for your race ,i do not go for expensive items ,like remote charger etc,what im after is on the skills once you have a chassis setup to perfect and driving skill is brilliant and knowing your settings and track
I agree. Currently racing my 20 year old Tamiya 414 and still doing ok :)
Hi there, I’m looking at re-starting my hobby. I have a pre-owned ta05 with some hop ups. I haven’t used it in a while and would like ur advice on what I’m to do and if you could recommend me a good servo/esc/motor combo. I’m a beginner. Happy new year!
Cheap TSKY ESC, Surpass V3 motor and JX4409 servo.
Thanks a mill! Hope more sponsors come ur way this year! Bless
idol sir joel!
Buti pinapayagan ka sa PICC, kami ni Porsha na kick out hahahaha
You look great for your age. Thank you for the video!
Thank you!
where are races held in manila now sir? i used to race 1/10 on-road nitro at libis track back in the days..
STR raceway in Sun Valley village bicutan
Use a Sanwa mt44 . All day :)
Help, I’m struggling getting advice on what would be several good ready to run touring cars for under 300.........I found old threads talking about TC4 and such but those are all discontinued. What are some modelsI should look at
Just get a Tamiya Euro truck. You have to build it but it comes with a motor. I bought the digital screen Dumbo RC transmitter, a $25 hobby wing esc and some batteries and a charger. That set up will be just under or close to the 300.
Since 78? U look like u were born in 1991
Thanks, but I am 48 :D
Tamiya for the win
All the best equipment in the world cant help if you dont know how to set it up . I run a cheap rtr TC3 with novak 13.5 and a diled setup and make A mains . im not dropping 700$ to gain 3 tenths on a Sunday club race.
Don't forget to drop $30 per race day on a set of tires to drop another 2 tenths :D
I feel like on-road is a little less newbie friendly, while offroad can be a little more catering to the new people. I wish another class like the RTR slash class would come. they used to race those things on road and offroad just for a good time.
I agree.
I know this is an old comment, but now my local club ( and a few others i know of ) are running a stock tamiya tt02 class . That's about as cheap as it gets and so much fun . Even the top guys have bought one .
And what tires would you recommend
For asphalt, we use Rush 36.
Wonder how the Sakura compares to my 419XR in 13.5 and 17.5.
419XR should be faster in the hands of expert drivers. But for club racing Sakura is good enough. It's all about who can accept the fact to pay $30 / set of tires that will be fast for only 15 minutes or less :)
@@rccartips i know it's faster, but i wonder how much? All this LCG stuff compered to a normal car.
@@Max-hy9ud The higher the track grip the bigger the gap. Big enough that it is noticeable. But if your track is low/med grip, you might not notice a difference.
The way i see it, in order to get a decent brand like serpent , Mugen, Xray etc and a decent chassis , nitro or electric we are looking from €500 to €700 euros that minus the wheels, engine, electrics, servo’s, reciever , transmitter and a transponder, fuel or batteries. A nitro engine ( a good one ) like NovaRossi is close to €300 euros alone , for electric i dont thinks its that cheaper either. But i think they are always some compromises and that value for money Cars. Like the italian brand BMT. A 1/0 electric touring starts at 249 euros which is not that bad, and looks also well made compared to a 500euros serpent Medius X20. So There are brands that are trying, but people should start to buy these brands aswell not with the mentality that if its not a Mugen or an Xray then its trash.
I a use Sakura 3racing advance,
But what model is the expensive one?
A800x
The A800X.
funfact: the baseprice of the A800X is lower than the XRay
Go to buy a team Magic E4JS Buy there in a motor Combo Hobbbwing XR10 10'5T "Servo a Savox-1251MG Transmiter Sanwa MT44 Tires No yet idea What tests cheap Build but have no money tree and it's pure fun for track no tournament gear ratio 31/80 so a project of net 360Euro excluding transmitter I have already a while
Fainly good guy at touring car talks:)
Thanks. My expertise is really F1 and Mini :D
question do you have counterfeit products now?
Nope.
should I say is there counterfeit in RC now?
@@CMgraffix I haven't seen one.
What is the best under $1000.?
3racing is good.
What do you think about the blaze r2 I club race with one
I have not seen one of those :)
rccartips you can look it up online
Without owning/testing one I cannot say much. But from the specs and price, seems like a good deal.
Xray t4 2019 is The best car ever
Do you like the Mugen MTC1?
Pretty easy for me to obtain a TA07 or TRF419, and I can spec it to do drift or roadrace. Buy once and don't buy another one(except when you want another one!)
[edit: I don't have money yet.]
Once you buy one you will keep buying. It is an addiction :)
rccartips The more, the merrier!
I myself played 1/8 nitro buggy...seriously...i never encouraged my daughter to go into these kind of hobby..i rather have my daughter go through college ...finished her 2 years..then later..go to a local university..studied medicine to become a doctor/profesional rather than waste her time in these hobby in which my country does not promised any form of future prospect.✌
Flysky noble nb4+ is extremely fast. Too fast for me. I had to turn it down. Definitely feels locked INr4 rx
Hi sir, what esc do you use for x ray and a800x?
Both Hobbywings.
Links?
is a M17 that much better than an M12S?
I guess it depends on a persons skill level. At the top level competition, yes. For amateurs and club racers like me, the M12S is already fast. Personally me and my daughter went back to an MT4 because it was 150 grams lighter. MT4 + good futaba servo + SHS mode = pretty fast enough :D
@@rccartips my MT4 broke down last week, i ordered the M12S for my 13.5 ETS spec car. Can't wait how it feels with the M12S! :D
You hand will feel it (heavier).... hahaha. Just be careful initially, the steering response will be faster, so you might crash your car into a corner (my daughter did it). The timing of when to turn the steering wheel will be different and your car will be twitchier.
rccartips ok, tested the M12S and it Feels amazing! It feels slightly faster, better to controll and just awesome! And yes, i crashed at the First battery on the evening xD but Not because of the M12, i Tested one of the new HDF Bodys from zooracing and haven‘t had in mind how high the steering is at high Speed! Well... After close comes take off... ;)
I feel delusional for trying to get one of these RC’s for £100🤣
:D
I've never heard xray described as mid level... Multiple times world champs in different classes but they're mid range? Hmm... Not sure I agree with that
At that time compared to the price of the Awesomatix it was way cheaper. But on performance it is top, my daughter is usually winning against newest cars with the T42018.
@@rccartips OK, it makes sense now. Awesomatix are incredibly expensive too, way out of my reach but top level cars
You are not comparing cars you are comparing radio equipment and electronics. To be fair dinkum compare the cars with the same equipment.
I am comparing cheap (electronics + car) versus expensive (electronics + car). How a cheap car with cheap electronics compared against expensive cars with expensive electronics. It is not meant to be a purely car chassis comparison.
I thought I was making a high end car but it ends up being low end :(
:D
$700 wow. I'd rather put 700 into my real car.
I would agree.
I'll pass...
"700 dollars"
Ah yes very cheap
:D
Race TT02 lol
I have been building my first TT02 for the past 2 weeks, really struggling with motivation to complete the build. :D
WASTE OF TIME
I have plenty of time to waste :)