Would you able to show a Injector Pump removal? My pump Is leaking by the #2 fuel overflow screw and needs to be resealed. Great video by the way mate.
I appreciate the length of this video and the camera angles. I've watched 15-20 of these videos online about the timing belt change and this one is the best produced, edited, step by step one. It took you a long time to create this content and I appreciate your effort.
Hey mate, you are a legend, I just replaced the belt and the water pump. Was watching your video and followed exactly what you’ve said there. Thanks heaps mate!
I owe you a BIG thank you. I tackled this project today and everything worked about perfect. I was nervous as hell about messing up the timing, but sure enough I triple checked and it worked like a charm. Thank you, from Canada!
You're welcome! I was also a little concerned the first time I did mine many years ago, next time you'll be a seasoned pro and it'll take half the time. :)
The way you put the pesky little spring back on made me go thru hell for an hour or so... I finally put it the other way around (from plate to tensioner) apart from that, great vidéeo , it came for me as great help. Thanks Mate!
Yep, sometimes it drops straight on, other times you're still questioning its heritage half an hour later using language that would make a warfy wonder....
Tip to anyone doing the belt, make sure you replace the tensioner too. Mine hadn't been done by the last owner when the belt was changed, and it was sticky, allowing a dangerous amount of slack/backlash in the belt. A mate who helped out had a worse story, and his tensioner literally fell apart in his hands as it was removed...he was probably about 3km away from an $18k engine rebuild. Also, I got a replacement radiator from AdRad, and the fanshroud and overflow bottle bracket holes didn't line up on the new radiator strap. Big ups to Geoff Leeson's in Bunbury (where I bought it), for the suggestion to just swap the left side strap for the one off the radiator I'd replaced (they unbolt), so I didn't have to modify the strap or the overflow bottle bracket...
It's a great idea to replace both the tensioner and even the water pump while you're in that far. And most importantly don't buy cheap, it's false economy.
Hint: nip the cam gear bolt up a bit. Fit the belt and tensioner. Then tension the cam gear bolt. Doesnt matter if the cam turns a bit because the engine is all.turning together.
Top video. My 80's 1hz is now over 700 k km's and due for a t-belt and water pump job plus shim adjustment. Original 1hz to my 80 from 1992. With water pump gaskets on the 1hz and my cars I usually use a smear of Loctite 518 on the front and back of the gasket.
Thank you very much for your info and sharing your knowledge. I have seen your nuckle rebuild video and it helped me rebuild my 92 Toyota Lj78 nuckle. I will know tackle the timing belt! Thanks again from Odessa, Texas USA mate!
I thoroughly enjoyed that - and I don't even own a Tojo! I used to think belts were crap, until I had to live with chains. Easier to do a belt I reckon. Cheers mate.
Mate top video. I have to do this tomorrow for the first time because i want to replace the water pump and i didn't realise it was behind the timing case housing. As soon as i opened that plastic cover i was like bugger that ill stuff it up big time so would get my mechanic to do it for like another $500 at least. You make it look so easy that im confident enough to give it a crack. Thanks again mate keep up the good vids.
Glad you enjoyed it mate. Just take your time, you can grab an electronic copy of the factory service manual online to help you along the way. It's a reasonably easy job, just plan for the first time you tackle it, to take all day.
If this vid showed me one thing, it is this... I think I'll leave it to the experts!! My Coaster Bus... I suspect you would have to drop the motor out of it to do that job. Beyond me at the moment. Thanks for the great vid. Really good step by step stuff. BIG LIKE!
Thank you for this great video, I have these motors in my boat and had to replace these parts on two motors. After watching your video I was able to do both motors in a weekend. Very helpful, thank you very much!
Hi mate , good vid. Helpful Cheers.Question if i could ; Installed new belt and tensioner pulley. Started motor with the cover off and saw the belt walks across the cam gears and runs / sticks out about 5 mm over the cam cog. Edit ; Adjusted retaining bolts with torq wrench to 26Nm belt now sitting correctly on cam drive pulley. Seems i had over tightened bolts by hand not by much though about 8 Nm over.
Have question for that tensioner pulley. Is that pulley should be move up/down just a little bit freely when yo tighten that 2 tensioner bolt? Or that pulley just sit tight there no moving up/down with spring installed? Please answer sire 🙏 Big thanks from indonesia.
Hi, great video! Why do you think Toyota decided on a timing belt rather than a timing chain? At how many kilometers do you need to replace the timing belt? thanks
Just ordered my kit for the 105lc 400 tho, question what is the blue salastic you used and what size socket is it to turn motor over giving it a go all on my own , great video
Stepped bolt on tensioner with 12mm head is tensioned to 27nm. Any tighter and the sucker snaps off and well...... you could just imagine what happens when the belt goes loose. Other than that, this is an excellent tutorial video. Well done 👍
You have to watch tensioning bolts. Firstly, you have to use the correct lubricant as specified in the FSM, using the wrong lubricant will see torque specs up to 20% out. Then of course is the calibration torque wrench itself. With mission critical bolts, like conrod bolts, you're much better off measuring the stretch of the fastener. Unfortunately some bolts like the tensioner bolt you can't get to the back of. I think I went about half an ugga dugga on that one! :)
Hey mate I swapped the head and installed the cam, but it was off timing when installed. ive been bottoming out pistons and valves back and fourth slowly to reach timing, where do all 3 timing marks have to sit when setting with a new head?
I’m about to tackle this on my 96 1HZ … I have decent mechanic skills when I’m following instructions. How many hours am I looking at to replace the water pump and Timing belt plus all the other bits? I’m hoping five or six hours but I’m just guessing I have no actual idea
With filming it took us around 8 hours. Though I had done it before. First time I would allow a good 8 hours. After a few times you'll be able to finish the job by lunch!
Great videos btw... just curious, I have a Ford Territory SZ (2014 Diesel Automatic 2WD 2.7) and have heard it's extremely tricky to replace the timing belt. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks heaps !
Top video mate, time to give my old girl (2000 HZJ78R) a timing belt and water pump, she's clicked over 240,000 but don't want to wait until 300,000 for the belt - she may never get there! Just wondering, I see the few kits available online include the crank seal and pump seal, do you not need to worry about them? Cheers mate, awesome video as always.
What did you use as silicon? I have a new belt, water pump and tensioner with gaskets, but am wondering what type of silicone I need to buy? Starting the tear down now. 1 HDT with 330000km
Thanks. I didn't have a good impact gun. So I removed my cam cover. For anyone that is removing cam cover, be aware it may be stuck on. I didn't want to pry to hard because of the light aluminum or plastic and 31 years of sludge probably held it tight. Be patient and careful and it will come
Good filming and informative. I will pull you up over the over use of an impact gun. They are fantastic tools to spin off cam bolts etc so you don't have to take the rocker box cover off etc. However, we become over reliant on them, they are too useful. You have no idea how much or little torque you are putting through a bolt. You have a rough idea to start with as you get used to your tool but as the battery gets old it gets weaker without you knowing this. You did the cam bolt up, I think you said 70 ft lb. But was it? With a weak battery it could be a lot less. I don't wish to be critical because I thought overall it was a good video.
Thanks for the kind words, you're probably right about over use of rattle gun. I tested this one on a 19mm wheel nut and got around 65 to 70nm using the 3/8" to 1/2" converter. One of the great things about lithium ion batteries is they maintain near full voltage until they're just about flat. Though admittedly all of the testing I did was all with a full battery. I might run a test further down the track testing just this! And I'm the one making friends down the tyre shop insisting they use a wheel brace and not a rattle gun when they're doing up my wheel nuts....
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Don't even get me started about converters and loss of ft lbs. You are correct about lithium ion batteries regarding near full voltage. The problem comes when the battery gets old, they just don't crank out the same amps, or a smaller battery, less a/h wont give you as much torque. Not sure in OZ but over here in the UK tyre shops have to torque every nut now. There is a whole other subject about stretching bolts which I don't want to bore people with but you take my point. We can't argue as we are two landCruiser owners, I drive one of the few 70 series in the UK so I enjoyed your video.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing All good, and back on the road! New timing belt, tensioner, water pump, radiator, hoses. Having not been so deep into the 1HD FTE motor before, nor done a timing belt, your vid was super helpful...thanks for posting!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, agree...my Toyo mechanic in town calls them 'the Swiss watch of Toyota motors'. I love it, and the way it sounds and runs. The FTE is chipped and fitted with a 3" system plus Armax big bore snorkel, so breaths well and is good on the highway or offroad. My first '86 Troopie had the 2H with a Safari turbo. It lasted 25 years til it let go...could never keep it cool, and was still pretty gutless with a full load. 2nd hand FTE motors with 320k on them still fetch $14k over here in Perth...that's impressive.
Just bought a 1998 75 series troopy with the 1HZ. Doing all the maintenance items. Timing belt and water pump on the list. You sir are a champion ! What else would you suggest I look at engine wise ? It's a 5 speed manual.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Any tricks to doing a compression test ? Do you have a video on it maybe ? I've only ever done them on 1uzfe's. Anything different with a deisel ? What should the comps be ?
Filming takes twice as long, but the first time it took me the day. Morning to disassemble and clean, then reassembly after lunch. I was done before tea.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Mate. This vid helped me heaps, new first time at this and was able change belt, pump, tensioner and new injector pump. After much research I found out that in your video what you’re at is “Bottom Dead Center” BDC! You still put the belt on right. That flathead screw mark at the top about 11-12oclock is Bottom Dead Center. If timing the injector pump its different again and all three pulleys align to Top Dead Center. The main cam shaft included in the three marks TDC aligns to.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thanks i have got it off now, i didn't have a gear puller. I didn't something you probably won't like and heated it a bit and put the bolt in and hit with a copper hammer. Anyway its all back together now and working, great video and thanks. By far the most annoying thing in the whole process for me was the tensioning spring.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yes, thinking is that older diesel engines need higher sulfur content to lubricate the engine. not sure if 10ppm diesel will be good for a 1HZ.
Just as an aside, I've been thinking about an easier way to get the spring back on. Because it's a right sod of a thing! I was thinking of cutting off the end of a larger diameter screwdriver and then drilling a concentric hole just a little larger than the pin size into the cut end. Slip the spring over the shank of the screwdriver and lever the hole onto the pin. Finally with a second screwdriver, push the spring off of the cut screwdriver into the groove on the pin. Let me know if you give it a go and how it works out for you.
Is there a washer goes on the tensioner? Does it go on first? So washer>tensioner> bolt through? So washer between gear plate cover and tensioner not the front? The manual diagram calls it a plate washer so assuming it goes on the actual plate side. I forgot to put this washer in on last 1HZ rebuild and after 3000 kilometres the big tensioner bolt worked it way all the way out, tensioner fell off and timing belt came off destroying the head and snapping the cam, bending valves etc. hHad to buy a new head. All over a 20c washer for fucks sack. Not because this video though just to be clear. But you might want double check looks you have put washer in the front side can’t really see??
@@joesarrieto8434 For the water pump/alternator belt, the factory service manual specifies that the run of belt between water pump and alternator with 10kg of force on the belt should deflect 6-7mm for a new belt and 8-11mm for a used belt. If you're having trouble with belt slip and the belt is not glazed up, grab a fishing spring balance and set it as per the factory service manual. Then try to remember the tension for next time!
You skipped the part on how you slipped the belt on..i had a bit of difficulty..i ended up taken the 4 bolts an plate on injector pump off..belt went on easy an no hassle..
On the Landcruiser 80 series dash there is an inset push button. You'll need a thin pen or similar to reach into the instrument cluster to reset it. Just push and hold for a second or two.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing haha cheers mate will love to give it a go, while you're here you'd be the bloke to ask. I've hot a 75 1hz that's coming up on 500k km, any thoughts on what I can do for the engine? Ie cleaning up the intake manifold, new oil catch can, or new injectors etc? Wouldn't mind giving him some love, been good to me haha
@@benhowell5790 The 1HZs really enjoy regular servicing! Every 5,000km both filter and oil. If it's running fine, no need to throw a set of injectors at it unless it needs it. A catch can is never a bad idea for a diesel, it'll prevent clogging up the inlet tract with goo. A second fuel filter (30 micron with water trap) is a great thing, especially if you do any remote work.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing what's the real deal of removing engine cover ? still can use either impact gun or ratchet to undo and tightening the cam bolt while jamming the gear with screw driver
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
What DIY maintenance do you want to learn about?
Why is it so difficult to start? mines start in a 1/5 of a round.
Valve clearances
Please can you show us how to overhaul the vacuum pump. Mine is oozing a bit of oil
Would you able to show a Injector Pump removal? My pump Is leaking by the #2 fuel overflow screw and needs to be resealed.
Great video by the way mate.
Swivel hubs
I appreciate the length of this video and the camera angles. I've watched 15-20 of these videos online about the timing belt change and this one is the best produced, edited, step by step one. It took you a long time to create this content and I appreciate your effort.
Thanks mate, we try to create the content we would like to find if we were about to attempt the job ourselves.
Hey mate, you are a legend, I just replaced the belt and the water pump. Was watching your video and followed exactly what you’ve said there. Thanks heaps mate!
Mate, glad we could help!
I owe you a BIG thank you. I tackled this project today and everything worked about perfect. I was nervous as hell about messing up the timing, but sure enough I triple checked and it worked like a charm. Thank you, from Canada!
You're welcome! I was also a little concerned the first time I did mine many years ago, next time you'll be a seasoned pro and it'll take half the time. :)
Very helpful video! Watched this about a year ago when I did the belt in my 80 and it helped me out heaps 👍
Glad it helped! Must still be running 😁
The way you put the pesky little spring back on made me go thru hell for an hour or so... I finally put it the other way around (from plate to tensioner) apart from that, great vidéeo , it came for me as great help. Thanks Mate!
Yep, sometimes it drops straight on, other times you're still questioning its heritage half an hour later using language that would make a warfy wonder....
Tip to anyone doing the belt, make sure you replace the tensioner too. Mine hadn't been done by the last owner when the belt was changed, and it was sticky, allowing a dangerous amount of slack/backlash in the belt. A mate who helped out had a worse story, and his tensioner literally fell apart in his hands as it was removed...he was probably about 3km away from an $18k engine rebuild. Also, I got a replacement radiator from AdRad, and the fanshroud and overflow bottle bracket holes didn't line up on the new radiator strap. Big ups to Geoff Leeson's in Bunbury (where I bought it), for the suggestion to just swap the left side strap for the one off the radiator I'd replaced (they unbolt), so I didn't have to modify the strap or the overflow bottle bracket...
It's a great idea to replace both the tensioner and even the water pump while you're in that far. And most importantly don't buy cheap, it's false economy.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yep did the lot, with a Gates kit and OEM cast impeller pump.
Hint: nip the cam gear bolt up a bit. Fit the belt and tensioner. Then tension the cam gear bolt. Doesnt matter if the cam turns a bit because the engine is all.turning together.
Thought the same thing
Top video. My 80's 1hz is now over 700 k km's and due for a t-belt and water pump job plus shim adjustment. Original 1hz to my 80 from 1992. With water pump gaskets on the 1hz and my cars I usually use a smear of Loctite 518 on the front and back of the gasket.
700k!
Great video. No nonsense and clear understandable instructions. Cheers!
Glad to help!
Thank you very much for your info and sharing your knowledge. I have seen your nuckle rebuild video and it helped me rebuild my 92 Toyota Lj78 nuckle. I will know tackle the timing belt! Thanks again from Odessa, Texas USA mate!
Glad it helped!
thanks a million, I only had mine done professionally and really not overly happy with the service, will be doing mine next time myself
Great to hear mate, things like this are easily done by a home DIYer. It'll save you money and make you more self sufficient.
Just remember mate, what you save it labour from a shop IE $120ish an hour you could buy the parts 2 or 3 times over
videos like this are what we need, keep it up guys
Thanks mate!
I thoroughly enjoyed that - and I don't even own a Tojo! I used to think belts were crap, until I had to live with chains. Easier to do a belt I reckon. Cheers mate.
Some chains will last the life of the engine. Though I like gears the best!
Mate top video. I have to do this tomorrow for the first time because i want to replace the water pump and i didn't realise it was behind the timing case housing. As soon as i opened that plastic cover i was like bugger that ill stuff it up big time so would get my mechanic to do it for like another $500 at least. You make it look so easy that im confident enough to give it a crack. Thanks again mate keep up the good vids.
Glad you enjoyed it mate. Just take your time, you can grab an electronic copy of the factory service manual online to help you along the way. It's a reasonably easy job, just plan for the first time you tackle it, to take all day.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing was the blue glue you were using on the water pump housing a gasket glue mate?
will be doing this job tomorrow and radiator replacement, great video and close-up clarity , thanks heaps for posting it
No worries, hope it all goes smoothly for you tomorrow.
Cheers mate just done my timing belt and saved me 800$ on my 80. Legend.
You made my day! Cheers buddy!
As they say, give the man a fish and he'll eat for a day, teach the man to fish and you'll feed him for a life time!
Пришло время и мне заменить ГРМ на моем кукурузнике, 1 HD-T, искал видео в русской версии наткнулся на Вашу , все очень понятно, спасибо 👍🤝
I needed this thank you 🙏 I just replaced the cylinder head 👍.,an wasn’t sure about the timing just needed a fresher.
No problem 👍
Guess didn’t wait for the glow plugs on start up 😂 Great DIY video 👍
Haha!
Very helpful video! Subbed and added to my library. I have a 1990 JDM LC with the 1-HDT and I will be doing the TB change eventually.
Welcome!
Great DYI video Mate ! Giving me the confidence to tackle this job which I am doing next week
Great to hear mate, have at it!
Insanely talented mate. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
If this vid showed me one thing, it is this... I think I'll leave it to the experts!! My Coaster Bus... I suspect you would have to drop the motor out of it to do that job. Beyond me at the moment.
Thanks for the great vid. Really good step by step stuff. BIG LIKE!
Thanks mate!
Thank you very much. I changed my water pump and timing belt. Awesome video!!
Cheers, glad it helped!
Thank you for this great video, I have these motors in my boat and had to replace these parts on two motors. After watching your video I was able to do both motors in a weekend. Very helpful, thank you very much!
Glad to help!
Very satisfying, double thumbs up
Thanks mate!
Hi mate , good vid. Helpful Cheers.Question if i could ; Installed new belt and tensioner pulley. Started motor with the cover off and saw the belt walks across the cam gears and runs / sticks out about 5 mm over the cam cog. Edit ; Adjusted retaining bolts with torq wrench to 26Nm belt now sitting correctly on cam drive pulley. Seems i had over tightened bolts by hand not by much though about 8 Nm over.
Great Video, just a bloke getting it done .
Thanks mate!
Хорошее обучающее видео! Спасибо за труд.
Привет из России👋
Thanks mate!
Now that's what I call lots of help😀👍👍👍
Cheers!
Very educational video, are there any video on valve clearance with the same model?
Unfortunately not, and more unfortunately, a special Toyota tool is required to change out the shims.
Please do video on the VE pump. AFC adjustments.
Mate thanks for the video, do you think you could also do one one replacing the injectors
You might be onto somethimg there!
Top Marks guys best vid out there. thanks
Wow, thanks!
Have question for that tensioner pulley. Is that pulley should be move up/down just a little bit freely when yo tighten that 2 tensioner bolt? Or that pulley just sit tight there no moving up/down with spring installed? Please answer sire 🙏
Big thanks from indonesia.
Hi, great video! Why do you think Toyota decided on a timing belt rather than a timing chain? At how many kilometers do you need to replace the timing belt? thanks
It's dependent on the model, though the 1HZ as in the video is every 100,000km.
Dont do everything you seen on yt. Torque specs are required
Just ordered my kit for the 105lc 400 tho, question what is the blue salastic you used and what size socket is it to turn motor over giving it a go all on my own , great video
I usually use Loctite branded silastic, from memory the harmonic balancer bolt is 32mm.
Stepped bolt on tensioner with 12mm head is tensioned to 27nm.
Any tighter and the sucker snaps off and well...... you could just imagine what happens when the belt goes loose.
Other than that, this is an excellent tutorial video. Well done 👍
You have to watch tensioning bolts. Firstly, you have to use the correct lubricant as specified in the FSM, using the wrong lubricant will see torque specs up to 20% out. Then of course is the calibration torque wrench itself.
With mission critical bolts, like conrod bolts, you're much better off measuring the stretch of the fastener. Unfortunately some bolts like the tensioner bolt you can't get to the back of.
I think I went about half an ugga dugga on that one! :)
Hey mate I swapped the head and installed the cam, but it was off timing when installed. ive been bottoming out pistons and valves back and fourth slowly to reach timing, where do all 3 timing marks have to sit when setting with a new head?
I’m about to tackle this on my 96 1HZ … I have decent mechanic skills when I’m following instructions. How many hours am I looking at to replace the water pump and Timing belt plus all the other bits? I’m hoping five or six hours but I’m just guessing I have no actual idea
With filming it took us around 8 hours. Though I had done it before. First time I would allow a good 8 hours. After a few times you'll be able to finish the job by lunch!
Great one
The proof of the pudding is in the eating
Cheers!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing man you do the most excellent videos. Just straightforward and capable
I really appreciate them
Thanks for the video good job
Glad you liked it!
Luar biasa sekali kawan
Tentu anda sangat baik dalam mengerjakan
Thanks!
Great vid mate now I've got abit Of idea how to do water pump and timing belt thanks mate
No worries Terry, glad you enjoyed the video.
What grease you used to put on the backing plate
@@terrymosquito8229 We used Castrol Hi-Temp Bearing grease.
Thanks mate
Does anyone know what size socket is used when you turn the engine over a revolution at the end of the video?
Great videos btw... just curious, I have a Ford Territory SZ (2014 Diesel Automatic 2WD 2.7) and have heard it's extremely tricky to replace the timing belt. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks heaps !
Sorry, I haven't had one of those apart.
since your job is to change the timing belt, do you need to open the packing plate?
im working on the same ingene thanks for the good video
No worries mate, glad you liked it!
Hello , please what of the crank mark, the engine I’m working on’s mark is not identifiable, so please what else do I do to find the mark?
Great video mate keep up the great videos👍🏼
Thanks!
Top video mate, time to give my old girl (2000 HZJ78R) a timing belt and water pump, she's clicked over 240,000 but don't want to wait until 300,000 for the belt - she may never get there! Just wondering, I see the few kits available online include the crank seal and pump seal, do you not need to worry about them? Cheers mate, awesome video as always.
They don't seem to be an issue, I've never had to replace them as yet.
thanks alot small bro i love it and it also help mi .plese thanks alot
Glad it helped
What did you use as silicon? I have a new belt, water pump and tensioner with gaskets, but am wondering what type of silicone I need to buy? Starting the tear down now. 1 HDT with 330000km
It's just loctite make a gasket
Thanks. I didn't have a good impact gun. So I removed my cam cover. For anyone that is removing cam cover, be aware it may be stuck on. I didn't want to pry to hard because of the light aluminum or plastic and 31 years of sludge probably held it tight. Be patient and careful and it will come
Good filming and informative.
I will pull you up over the over use of an impact gun.
They are fantastic tools to spin off cam bolts etc so you don't have to take the rocker box cover off etc.
However, we become over reliant on them, they are too useful.
You have no idea how much or little torque you are putting through a bolt. You have a rough idea to start with as you get used to your tool but as the battery gets old it gets weaker without you knowing this. You did the cam bolt up, I think you said 70 ft lb. But was it? With a weak battery it could be a lot less.
I don't wish to be critical because I thought overall it was a good video.
Thanks for the kind words, you're probably right about over use of rattle gun. I tested this one on a 19mm wheel nut and got around 65 to 70nm using the 3/8" to 1/2" converter.
One of the great things about lithium ion batteries is they maintain near full voltage until they're just about flat. Though admittedly all of the testing I did was all with a full battery. I might run a test further down the track testing just this!
And I'm the one making friends down the tyre shop insisting they use a wheel brace and not a rattle gun when they're doing up my wheel nuts....
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Don't even get me started about converters and loss of ft lbs.
You are correct about lithium ion batteries regarding near full voltage. The problem comes when the battery gets old, they just don't crank out the same amps, or a smaller battery, less a/h wont give you as much torque.
Not sure in OZ but over here in the UK tyre shops have to torque every nut now.
There is a whole other subject about stretching bolts which I don't want to bore people with but you take my point.
We can't argue as we are two landCruiser owners, I drive one of the few 70 series in the UK so I enjoyed your video.
How did the Matsumo kit go, would you use it again?
Yes, it was great.
Good tute mate, off to the workshop to have a go now...have a beer on me! 🍺🍺🍺
Thanks! I just might.....
@@LockyourHubs4WDing All good, and back on the road! New timing belt, tensioner, water pump, radiator, hoses. Having not been so deep into the 1HD FTE motor before, nor done a timing belt, your vid was super helpful...thanks for posting!
Glad it helped mate! I love the 1HD-FTE, the best straight six diesel Toyota has ever built.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, agree...my Toyo mechanic in town calls them 'the Swiss watch of Toyota motors'. I love it, and the way it sounds and runs. The FTE is chipped and fitted with a 3" system plus Armax big bore snorkel, so breaths well and is good on the highway or offroad. My first '86 Troopie had the 2H with a Safari turbo. It lasted 25 years til it let go...could never keep it cool, and was still pretty gutless with a full load. 2nd hand FTE motors with 320k on them still fetch $14k over here in Perth...that's impressive.
Awesome video
Thanks!
You're welcome.
Best video produce.
Thanks!
Great little vid champ...with that confidence I,ll be doing mine today...cheers...take care
Glad you liked it.!
Just bought a 1998 75 series troopy with the 1HZ. Doing all the maintenance items. Timing belt and water pump on the list. You sir are a champion !
What else would you suggest I look at engine wise ? It's a 5 speed manual.
About 400k on the clock. She's pretty slow.
1HZs are as reliable as the day is long. If the engine has good compression and regular oil changes, they'll probably outlive both of us!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Any tricks to doing a compression test ? Do you have a video on it maybe ? I've only ever done them on 1uzfe's. Anything different with a deisel ? What should the comps be ?
@@davedave2551 We Do! It's on a 1HD-T (very similar engine). ruclips.net/video/gVQx1mkAlLg/видео.html
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Outstanding ! It's got all the information I need. Brilliant !!
Great video mate!! How long did it take you do change the Timing belt and water pump in total?
Filming takes twice as long, but the first time it took me the day.
Morning to disassemble and clean, then reassembly after lunch. I was done before tea.
the bad part about deisels extremely small clearances , easy to hydraulic. these hz1 etc are about the easiest belt changes out. some good tips.
Agreed, though I do prefer chains, or better yet gears!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing the landcruisers have gears, you don't need to pull the camshaft pully off like other cars..... glad.
If those clips are hard to come by in Australia they must be gold dust over here...now i'm scared to break them
I still haven't found any!
Thanks mate🙏💪🏿🇵🇬
You're welcome!
It says TDC on the other screw around to the left a bit, does that mean Timing Direction Clockwise? The same as the lower pully!
I found out that TDC means Top Dead Centre. These two marks are one both timing wheels a little back around to the left as in the video.
Sorry, missed the first post. Yes you're correct, Top Dead Centre.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Mate. This vid helped me heaps, new first time at this and was able change belt, pump, tensioner and new injector pump.
After much research I found out that in your video what you’re at is “Bottom Dead Center” BDC! You still put the belt on right. That flathead screw mark at the top about 11-12oclock is Bottom Dead Center. If timing the injector pump its different again and all three pulleys align to Top Dead Center. The main cam shaft included in the three marks TDC aligns to.
Great DIY vid. Cheers
Cheers!
On that pully what can be wrong if the belt slip off
Top or bottom?
all going so well until trying to get the cam sprocket off...mine is stuck fast one there
A gear puller should do the trick if the taper's locked.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thanks i have got it off now, i didn't have a gear puller. I didn't something you probably won't like and heated it a bit and put the bolt in and hit with a copper hammer.
Anyway its all back together now and working, great video and thanks. By far the most annoying thing in the whole process for me was the tensioning spring.
@@SacrumImperiumRomanum517 whatever works, works! Yes the spring is a pita.
Hi , can a 1 HZ engine run on 10ppm diesel?
10ppm sulphur?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yes, thinking is that older diesel engines need higher sulfur content to lubricate the engine. not sure if 10ppm diesel will be good for a 1HZ.
@@howlinghoundphotography6108 yes, it'll be fine.
Where does the bottom pulley marks have to be
The bottom pulley (fuel pump pulley) has alignment marks on the backing plate, in between both sides of the belt.
Need help sir..my timing belt always gets loose. Ive change the tensioner, but still get loose
1hz or 1hdfte?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing its 1hdt.
i havnt change the tensioners spring.could it be the spring?
If the pivot point is done up tight, it could only be the spring tension that's allowing the belt tension to slacken off.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thanks sir..ill try to change the old spring,been suspecting could be the spring..
Just as an aside, I've been thinking about an easier way to get the spring back on. Because it's a right sod of a thing!
I was thinking of cutting off the end of a larger diameter screwdriver and then drilling a concentric hole just a little larger than the pin size into the cut end. Slip the spring over the shank of the screwdriver and lever the hole onto the pin. Finally with a second screwdriver, push the spring off of the cut screwdriver into the groove on the pin.
Let me know if you give it a go and how it works out for you.
Gud job sir
Thanks!
Is there a washer goes on the tensioner? Does it go on first? So washer>tensioner> bolt through? So washer between gear plate cover and tensioner not the front? The manual diagram calls it a plate washer so assuming it goes on the actual plate side. I forgot to put this washer in on last 1HZ rebuild and after 3000 kilometres the big tensioner bolt worked it way all the way out, tensioner fell off and timing belt came off destroying the head and snapping the cam, bending valves etc. hHad to buy a new head. All over a 20c washer for fucks sack. Not because this video though just to be clear. But you might want double check looks you have put washer in the front side can’t really see??
You're correct, this washer go at the back of tensioner
Gday mate how do you gauge correct belt tension?
On the timing belt?
Lock your Hubs 4WDing sorry I’ll rephrase it correct belt tension on the fan belt
@@joesarrieto8434 For the water pump/alternator belt, the factory service manual specifies that the run of belt between water pump and alternator with 10kg of force on the belt should deflect 6-7mm for a new belt and 8-11mm for a used belt.
If you're having trouble with belt slip and the belt is not glazed up, grab a fishing spring balance and set it as per the factory service manual. Then try to remember the tension for next time!
Lock your Hubs 4WDing thank you
Thank you
What happens if it's break when you running?
The pistons smash into the valves and the engine is pretty much destroyed.
I got 1hdt is it worth fixing again or dump it
@@mayneyeh7229 depends in the damage.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing ohok thanks ill probs take the turbo of put it on my standard 1hz and throw the motor away
Good video although I’ve never understood why you would put silicon on the gasket
Mud, glorious mud!
You skipped the part on how you slipped the belt on..i had a bit of difficulty..i ended up taken the 4 bolts an plate on injector pump off..belt went on easy an no hassle..
If the tensioner is slack, the belt should go on without an issue.
How do you reset the T-belt light?
Or is it gone when replace the belt.
On the Landcruiser 80 series dash there is an inset push button. You'll need a thin pen or similar to reach into the instrument cluster to reset it. Just push and hold for a second or two.
I hope one day your missus buys you a torque wrench for Christmas or your birthday.
Haha, I actually own two!
what gear you was in when turning the crank by hand ?
Neutral
alos cuanto kilometro cedebe canbiar la banda
every 100,000km to be safe.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing ok
Why did they not make a track better than this ruble?
Great video mate, would you recommend a bush mechanic like myself to give it a crack or too risky knowing what could go wrong?
It's pretty straight forward mate, just take your time, you'll be fine! That's from one bush mechanic to another!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing haha cheers mate will love to give it a go, while you're here you'd be the bloke to ask. I've hot a 75 1hz that's coming up on 500k km, any thoughts on what I can do for the engine? Ie cleaning up the intake manifold, new oil catch can, or new injectors etc? Wouldn't mind giving him some love, been good to me haha
@@benhowell5790 The 1HZs really enjoy regular servicing! Every 5,000km both filter and oil. If it's running fine, no need to throw a set of injectors at it unless it needs it. A catch can is never a bad idea for a diesel, it'll prevent clogging up the inlet tract with goo. A second fuel filter (30 micron with water trap) is a great thing, especially if you do any remote work.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I'll get onto the fuel filter and catch can thanks mate
hey mate, ive read alot about locking the cam to stop it falling back, is that necessary?
Hey when manually turning by hand to see if pistons hit valve how do you know if they are?
You won't be able to turn the engine over by hand if the pistons are contacting the valves!
Cheers legend this vid helped heeps
Quando o motor está agregar oque deve ser
Cheers!
The 1HD-T I know has cam timing gears.
What are the size of the bands?
The belt?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yes. What are the sizes of the belt?
They are just the standard length that comes in the kit, the cam belt doesn't come in different sizes.
Nice
Thanks!
Хорошая работа.Но если не гайковертами крутить , можно тосол не сливать и дефузор не снимать.
А помпу как менять не сливая "тосол" 🤔
Good stuff very thorough. Do you wanna do my Toyota Coaster 1HZ? CASH JOB.
Haha! No. :)
sent me more videos of how to timme engine landcruiser
if i need any help ill ask you
No worries
It’s top dead center mate
What did I say?
@
Bottom dead center
Bugger, I suppose it depends on which hemisphere you're standing in! :)
Когда понимаешь что делать, то пох на каком языке говорят, respect!
Спасибо друг!
Becarefull tightening the cam gear bolt with a gun, i cracked the end of my cam doing it
I agree, though that's only a small impact, it can't even undo a wheel nut on the Landcruiser, so it's pretty safe there.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing what's the real deal of removing engine cover ? still can use either impact gun or ratchet to undo and tightening the cam bolt while jamming the gear with screw driver
@@KOBBSdiesel the camshaft has two flats cast into it so you're able to hold it still with a shifter.
Calage de la pompe d'injection moteur 1hz
White smoke problem 1hz
Fakhar khan tnak you
You're welcome!