I used to work at Kennametal in Quality Assurance and I can attest to the quality and precision of their cutting tools. The ISO rating and Lean Manufacturing processes produced the highest quality CNC tools I have ever seen, so it's great to see a video showcasing their product! Thanks for posting this!
Brings back fond memories. Our Family had a machine shop in Chicago way back. We only had one CNC, a Mazak Slant 15. I loved programming it, setting up and running it. The bad part was programming, didn't have a computer so I did it right into the control longhand. LOL
Yea without my mastercam I couldn't do 10% of the parts I make. I always admire CNC programers that can whip out hand programs. But I bet you they can't beat me in speed and complexity. Thanks for watching.
A shop I worked a few years ago, we had a lot of these up to 5-1/2". It was the Hertel or Widia brand(not sure which :-) before Kennametal bought them. used the 5-1/2" on a boring mill and it took all 30hp to drive it through P20 plates. Had to watch out for that slug at the end, just like a razor frisbie.
Many brands of this style but the first I've tried were the Kennametal and have drilled thousands of large holes. I've used that slug for ninja practice before. Deadly.
I use HTS drills on a daily basis, they're great once you've got them dialled in, they're a pain in the arse until then, what's really impressive is the amount of holes you can drill before changing the centre drill and inserts.
Great drills the Hertel Tiefbohr System HTS. I remember using them 30 years ago when Hertel first brought them out. The first time I used them it was to drill cooling holes in a die steel 100mm diameter over 1m deep. I’ve still got the technical handbook the Hertel application engineer gave me, its a great source of information even all these years later.
We have a 6½" version and it's a bit too much for the Doosan Puma 700. Drilling stainless you have to reduce the feed to .003"/rev. to keep the Z load under 100% and for aluminum you max out the spindle motor (500 rpm and .010" feed). It's punching in a nice hole though 😝
we use lots of the HTS drills, from 30mm upto 150mm in 316L stainless, F55 Duplex, and inconel 625. They will drill out around 3000mm of material without changing inserts edges !! epic drills !
Haha precision $240,000 machine, don't have a minute to waste getting every hole sealed. Cause you know time is money. Took a while to pay this one off but now it's all ours.
@@zalamachineshop Just a guess, didn't see the whole set up. I generally haul a quarter million $ in stuff to my job every week, if you only saw how it's held together and runs , and leaks, etc., compared to your stuff.
I program Okuma LB’s, LU’s, and Multus’ every day, they never disappoint me with their rigidity and performance. You don’t get a z axis duty cycle in a Mori like you do an Okuma!
@@zalamachineshop ich baue hauptsächlich Einzelteile bis 500 kg Gewicht, also keine großen Stückzahlen aber ich bin sehr zufrieden mit dem Bohrer und benutze ihn regelmäßig für eigentlich alle Bohrungen dieser Größenordnung.
Hello Zala, i'm looking for the same drill, and have some questions about the drill and the application. I have to drill some stainless 316. Would you tell me wich brand and type machine you use?💪 The machine we want to use is a doosan puma 5100. Could you tell me how much spindle load this needs on your machine? Greets from NL
It goes very straight but I always finish any bore that requires precision. Drill is good but sometimes unpredictable. Finishing with a silent boring bar is well controlled.
We have a few of these also but only up to the 102mm. Have you ever drilled 304 with it? Were putting a 4" hole 29" deep in 304. We normally run 4140HT with the DFT-MD inserts and routinely go 34" or deeper but Kennametal told us to run the DFT-DS inserts. Its running OK but were having somewhat of a hard time chipping. Any reccomendations?
304 is hard to chip with these drills because you can't feed fast enough. In order to break the chip you gotta feed fast and most machines can't handle the load. Slower speed faster feed but still very hard to break it. Let me know. Sounds like a nice application. Very Very deep.
Always had some trouble with this kind of drill...but when it works its fantastic. Center used to break often. No matter the centerdrilling. Guess just had the wrong material or turned it to slow. Used it on a gildemeister ctx 520.
When drilling on the lathe you gotta be certain that your drilling point (big small drill, centerdrill, ream, tap) has to be directly on center. If you are misaligned with center of rotation you will cause too much force. When on center most sharp drills cut like butter.
I also have used them a lot in my former company, and I know no better drills like them. Nice is you can easy make a shaft for them in the right length. No matter how deep, it always work smoth and the chips are just perfect. Plus the force is lower as with any other drill.
Hi Jimmy, great spelling of the last name. Same here. My family grew up in Chicago, had a machine shop there. Bought many a Kennemetal tools. Could be we may be related? I remember my dad having a cousin Jimmy, not sure if it's you or another member?
I use these quite a bit, but even though on CNC you have to put a M00 and grab the slug out of them, I prefer core drills after I get to 3 inches and bigger. I am a small shop so I need to save material whenever I can and if that means using a core drill and saving a 2 inch slug of 4140 then that’s what I do.
Of course I get it. We're a small 10 men shop as well. We have a whole warehouse of material stock and left over material from screwed up jobs. Never throw that stuff away and it does come in handy a lot. Take a look at this trepanning operation I did a while back. Saved around 2500 cores of 4140HT that we still have laying around. ruclips.net/video/om1PsqsC_fc/видео.html
You don't even have to face the part before running this drill. It will handle the saw cut face with no issue. Although this is a good work horse I personally like the Kennametal KSEMP drill. At 3.5" dia. we cut a 15" deep hole in less than 2 min. Break through is perfect with no deflection even in intersecting holes at any angle. They are also very durable. We have used them for 3 years now in a production shop, used by operators with a wide range of experience, and I have yet to see one damaged. Even if the inserts blow! The HTS will be gone in an instant if you have no coolant or lose an insert.
These drills are really some of the best you can get for enormous diameters, extended reach and price. However, if you're looking for exceptional performance (productivity) and hole quality and are willing to pay for it, consider looking into a KSEM Plus (also by Kennametal). Kennametal really has some of the best drilling in the industry. Seeing stuff this large in action really is pretty cool
I have a job I'm getting ready to set up that is 2000 holes in 4140HT. I will give your recommendation a try. Also looking at Allied Drills. They have some interesting ones that I want to try.
great video - good setup showing all of the steps to get to the deep bore. Okuma made a strong machine and its a shame to see some of the other lower quality tools come to market, that could never do this. this is from a 40 year cnc (was nc with paper tape) repair engineer. thank you for posting
theres a 50 year old okuma lathe at my shop the bed is no good anymore but the small machines got more horsepower than almost all the other machines in the shop 🤣
This is great and wake up memories (I am currently working at cnc mills).. I used a drill similar to this, in my cnc lathe. Tho, in my opinion is better to have a OD cut first. This is helpful and the piece is turning smoothly. Maybe u can raise the max RPM (G50) after that for better finishing face results. Anyway, thx for uploading this.
You know what you're talking about. An OD balances the part and less chance of part flying out. On this video it was good enough but on other parts I do that all the time.
Use opposite hand tools reverse the spindle and put the forces against the turret - your trying to pull up on your turret the way it is - also consider turning OD before facing to help keep it in the chuck - nice shop and equipment
Process called honing. We do that as well in our gundrilling and honing shop. Take a look at the video it's not exactly for a hydraulic cylinder but the concept is the same. ruclips.net/video/HAVNtZuFQU0/видео.html
The coolant just falls back into the tank through the chip conveyor and maybe a screen depending on the machine to be pumped through again. There is probably 30 to 50 gallons in that machine.
I used to use a similar machine, drilling those large diameter holes is quite the adrenaline rush .. All of your senses are running at peak levels ... I miss it actually
always wondering how are you so sure, that the part wont come out from the chucks. How big is the pressure/force from the chucks. And did you use tailstock for the next operations (specially roughing) or everything was done without it? Btw. You inspire me every time with your videos. Wish i could finish my apprenticeship by you.
The most important skill on any lathe is part holding. You have to be sure you are holding each part the best possible way. If you have a strong hold you can push it. Weak hold you back off the depth of cut and/or feed. This part I held with hard jaws with plenty of pressure. I've thrown my fair share of parts but got it pretty well down. Somewhat predictable.
Oh and you always gotta control your max spindle speed. G50S1000 on this part because of solid hold. Also balance your part has to be balanced. If the rough material is not balanced I will turn the OD first to make it perfectly balance before spinning it fast. Remember balance.
Also worth adding you have to consider force direction too, drilling on a lathe will practically never throw a part as its pushing it into the chuck, od turning - grooving is about the worse, facing can be some were between.
I’m no machinist I was curious as to why this lathe cuts from the bottom is it the way the machine is designed or is there any other advantage to it cutting this way?
on a normal lathe the tool bits are mounted on the front of the machine. The spindle is turning ccw as yo look at the spindle, so the mount the tolls upside down to run the spindle in forward (ccw) direction.
I see this on my job, they use it for drilling long shafts, I am using an insert drill for my part, how much back pressure is this putting on your indexer? Haha that sound when the drill goes through the piece and the chip breaks and fly off 🤘👌😁😎
Depends. Roughing with a 11" boring bar is gonna vibrate A LOT, unless it is several inches wide. Drilling big and using a big ass boring bar is always better. This is probably what he's doing anyway, you can see the boring bar in the turret.
@@zalamachineshop I was yelled for using 40mm indexable drill at 500 RPM and 0.14mm/rev......85% load on machine, and what? it was minute to run that drill through 60mm long part, nothing bad would happen... but no, I was too harsh on the machine, but they didn´t say that the program was running minute longer then in what time I was supposed to finish one part :)
@@zalamachineshopNow when I think again it makes sense not runing it with coolant for demonstration so you can see those sexy chips forming. Didn't think of this aspect before so thanks for demo! Cheers!
Na jaką głębokość te szczęki są zatoczone i jakie masz ciśnienie ustawione na uchwycie? Też używamy wiertła składane tej firmy i są petarda, niestety takiego modułowego jeszcze się nie dorobiliśmy. Ale i tak najlepsze z tego filmiku jest mocowanie detalu. Kozak👍👍👍
Are you getting hit with coolant this whole time, with the back leakage, or the front spraying? You are quite the trooper for making this video either way though. Something got soaked. Nicely done. :)
For 4 inch index able drill,(dia.101.6 mm drill) and all parameters for drilling are in Metric Standard a) Cutting Speed Should be Vc=57 m/min b)N(rpm)=178 rpm c)Feed per Revolution (Fn)=0.2 d)Length(l)=266.7 mm Therefore ,Time=Length/(Fn x N) =266.7/(0.2 x 178) =7.49 min
Did you used above parameters at this film?? Yesterday I drilled same hole same drill. No good chips My material steel S355 n -(350-400) F 0.1 Where is problem?
@@karoll9569the problem is S355 steel. It's very difficult to get it to break chips while drilling and you need special serrated inserts which unfortunately increase torque
Witam Widzę że kolega z Polski Wczoraj wiercilismy takim samym wiertłem tylko fi 96 Obroty około 400 i posuw był z 0.05-0.06 to powierzchnia wychodzi w miarę ok ale łamanie wióra tragedia wstęgi itp .Gdy zwiększyłem posuw do około 0.12-0.14 zaczęło łamać ale powierzenia straszne głębokie rysy normalnie gwint Materiał s 355 Proszę o jakieś rady
Czesc Karol sorry ze tak puzno odpowiadam ale wiem co u was sie dzialo. Jak takie rysy robi to albo pilot jest tepy albo zle naostrzony albo za malo wysuniety. Albo mocowanie za slabe. Jak maszyna da rady to wiertlo zapierdala. Nie mam czasu to wpadac bo roboty od groma. Pozdrawiam Polske.
A simple video but still good to watch. It was a little nervous watching the facing op, lol. But as mentioned below, i am sure we would have seen a different video if something went bad. Thanks sharing this with us. Peter.
Here in Sweden i have been using those Kenna drills from 75 to 140mm and up to 1000 mm deep with extensions. Our problem with a booring mill was that we had no option to by any swivel that put put cutting force on the “flats” instead of bolts. We had to reduce feed with the result of no breaking of chips. Result was that every swivel broke within hours. I made an own Capto C8 swivel that distributed the force on the small flats above the cylindrical clamping area. Now we are putting 40-50kw into the drill in only 120-180rpm to get the chips to break. Here we don’t know if Kenna have a swivel to sell. If.. they need to get that in their European catalogue. But if they don’t I have a simple cheap construction with a C8 Capto blank which improves performance.... 😉
@@fossy4321 Well yeah it's, but still the geometry I mean the form of the jaws or to be more accurate the deepness that the detail goes in in the jaws just looks not enough!
@@KnownasILkoo Believe me hydraulic chucks are amazingly powerful I worked a Takisawa TS30F Japanese lathe for 30 years or so (top of the range incredibly accurate almost to grinding standards) twice the size of this machine and I would happily let it rev to 2000 or above with this workpiece. The dangerous bit was when you went back onto a small manual machine and forgot how poor the clamping of manual chucks was! Things flying everywhere till you remembered which you did very quickly! Ha Ha
The pressure is so high that the hard jaw will make an imprint on the surface of the part. As long as the tool is sharp and cutting and part is fairly balanced it is ok.
It's so satisfying how it speeds up the closer the cutter gets to the middle to keep surface speed at the cutter tip the same! So cool.
Its called G96
i use a lower g50 with my g96 on facing big parts sticking that far out
I used to work at Kennametal in Quality Assurance and I can attest to the quality and precision of their cutting tools. The ISO rating and Lean Manufacturing processes produced the highest quality CNC tools I have ever seen, so it's great to see a video showcasing their product! Thanks for posting this!
Thanks for watching. I pick and choose my tool brands for different applications and Kennametal is #1 for large drilling.
My dad was a press setup guy FOR KENNAMETAL this is wht he used to make . FOR 45 YEARS!
Now that is legit! I laughed so hard at the coolant check though.
Brings back fond memories. Our Family had a machine shop in Chicago way back. We only had one CNC, a Mazak Slant 15. I loved programming it, setting up and running it. The bad part was programming, didn't have a computer so I did it right into the control longhand. LOL
Yea without my mastercam I couldn't do 10% of the parts I make. I always admire CNC programers that can whip out hand programs. But I bet you they can't beat me in speed and complexity. Thanks for watching.
Nice surface finish on the bore. I like it.
A shop I worked a few years ago, we had a lot of these up to 5-1/2". It was the Hertel or Widia brand(not sure which :-) before Kennametal bought them. used the 5-1/2" on a boring mill and it took all 30hp to drive it through P20 plates. Had to watch out for that slug at the end, just like a razor frisbie.
Many brands of this style but the first I've tried were the Kennametal and have drilled thousands of large holes. I've used that slug for ninja practice before. Deadly.
I use HTS drills on a daily basis, they're great once you've got them dialled in, they're a pain in the arse until then, what's really impressive is the amount of holes you can drill before changing the centre drill and inserts.
All drills on CNC Lathe must be dialed in almost perfect. You're a bit out of center and it stops cutting. These eat through steel.
That big metal detail spinning at 1000 RPM is looking scary. Good setup bro. :)
7:07
Her: Did you pull out?
Me:....yeah....
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
He drilled er' alright, lol
Just after seven minutes in the hole, at that!
All that gushing, looks like a successful operation.
Been there- done it! I used an Iscar 6.0 drill with 3 inserts on each side and a carbide center drill. Awesome video- brings back much memories.
Great drills the Hertel Tiefbohr System HTS. I remember using them 30 years ago when Hertel first brought them out. The first time I used them it was to drill cooling holes in a die steel 100mm diameter over 1m deep. I’ve still got the technical handbook the Hertel application engineer gave me, its a great source of information even all these years later.
I would try that drill.
Not sure what you mean, that was the drill you used in the video.
We have a 6½" version and it's a bit too much for the Doosan Puma 700. Drilling stainless you have to reduce the feed to .003"/rev. to keep the Z load under 100% and for aluminum you max out the spindle motor (500 rpm and .010" feed). It's punching in a nice hole though 😝
Superb performance of the machine.
Very good highspeed and precise setup.
Thanking you for this article.
"Acceptable leakage" xD
Ha ha haa hahahhahaha hahaaha ...ha.........ha
Questionable
At what point would a trepanning tool be a better option?
we use lots of the HTS drills, from 30mm upto 150mm in 316L stainless, F55 Duplex, and inconel 625. They will drill out around 3000mm of material without changing inserts edges !! epic drills !
Epic is Very Correct
Precision 50,000.00 $ machine, coolant plumbing, and seals, fittings, o rings. .001 percent of the budget.
Haha precision $240,000 machine, don't have a minute to waste getting every hole sealed. Cause you know time is money. Took a while to pay this one off but now it's all ours.
@@zalamachineshop Just a guess, didn't see the whole set up. I generally haul a quarter million $ in stuff to my job every week, if you only saw how it's held together and runs , and leaks, etc., compared to your stuff.
Are you kidding me? This is an Okuma! Even $100,000 won't touch one of these.
@@douro20 Been there, spent that.
I program Okuma LB’s, LU’s, and Multus’ every day, they never disappoint me with their rigidity and performance. You don’t get a z axis duty cycle in a Mori like you do an Okuma!
I've used a few different machines but the rigidity and reliability of an Okuma is unmatched. Where do u do ur thing?
Ogden Utah for an Aerospace Company. Ran the machines for 12 years, finished school and now play Manufacturing Engineer / CNC programmer.
Just got an LB3000EXII-MYW850 yesterday for a project.
That is the best way I have seen to get a four inch hole. Amazing.
Smarty Pants but not the funnest. She will never walk the same after her weekend with me!
A truly voracious tool, this insert drill-bit.
Kicks ass and makes lots of chips.
Derbohrer is echt der Hammer, ich hab den auch auf der Arbeit, geht super schnell und läuft viel ruhiger als herkömmliche Vollbohrer
Bohren Sie viele Löcher mit diesen Bohrern.
@@zalamachineshop ich baue hauptsächlich Einzelteile bis 500 kg Gewicht, also keine großen Stückzahlen aber ich bin sehr zufrieden mit dem Bohrer und benutze ihn regelmäßig für eigentlich alle Bohrungen dieser Größenordnung.
Hello Zala,
i'm looking for the same drill, and have some questions about the drill and the application.
I have to drill some stainless 316. Would you tell me wich brand and type machine you use?💪
The machine we want to use is a doosan puma 5100.
Could you tell me how much spindle load this needs on your machine?
Greets from NL
Awesome! Any idea how many spindle watts that drill is asking?
All of them
Not sure wasn't paying attention. My spindle load is about 30-40% my limit is my Z load which is around 90-110%. Easy cutting for such a large drill.
Layes are cool they can do pretty amazing drilling. I operate a cnc milling machine love my job.
I love my job too most of the time. Except as the 2nd boss I have to deal with the customers and that I don't always love.
How straight does it cut?
Is there any appreciable wander or is it self centring?
Would you cut under with that and then bore to size?
It goes very straight but I always finish any bore that requires precision. Drill is good but sometimes unpredictable. Finishing with a silent boring bar is well controlled.
So would it make any sense to drill the hole first, so you don't spend as much time facing?
Yeah Hertel drills. Used them 2x so far both times I was very impressed.
Impressive cutting tool!! 👍🏻
We have a few of these also but only up to the 102mm. Have you ever drilled 304 with it? Were putting a 4" hole 29" deep in 304. We normally run 4140HT with the DFT-MD inserts and routinely go 34" or deeper but Kennametal told us to run the DFT-DS inserts. Its running OK but were having somewhat of a hard time chipping.
Any reccomendations?
304 is hard to chip with these drills because you can't feed fast enough. In order to break the chip you gotta feed fast and most machines can't handle the load. Slower speed faster feed but still very hard to break it. Let me know. Sounds like a nice application. Very Very deep.
@@zalamachineshop I think we have 50-60hp at the spindle but its an odler machine. I think a 2006-2007 Puma800L
Always had some trouble with this kind of drill...but when it works its fantastic. Center used to break often. No matter the centerdrilling. Guess just had the wrong material or turned it to slow. Used it on a gildemeister ctx 520.
When drilling on the lathe you gotta be certain that your drilling point (big small drill, centerdrill, ream, tap) has to be directly on center. If you are misaligned with center of rotation you will cause too much force. When on center most sharp drills cut like butter.
Impessive! What's the power requirement on the spindle? You say about 40% But of what?
Very rough estimate I use is 10hp per 1in of drill diameter (give or take) to effectively drive an indexable drill in medium carbon steel.
I also have used them a lot in my former company, and I know no better drills like them. Nice is you can easy make a shaft for them in the right length.
No matter how deep, it always work smoth and the chips are just perfect.
Plus the force is lower as with any other drill.
@Michael Neils you are right very simple shaft to make. We've made one that is 2 1/2 times longer than this one.
And, I get to sell these thing! Lucky me!
Hi Jimmy, great spelling of the last name. Same here. My family grew up in Chicago, had a machine shop there. Bought many a Kennemetal tools. Could be we may be related? I remember my dad having a cousin Jimmy, not sure if it's you or another member?
Nice to see that during facing, the surface speed remains consistent!
G96
Yes sir but please don't forget the G50
Yes G50S1000! G96S210M3 right?
I use these quite a bit, but even though on CNC you have to put a M00 and grab the slug out of them, I prefer core drills after I get to 3 inches and bigger.
I am a small shop so I need to save material whenever I can and if that means using a core drill and saving a 2 inch slug of 4140 then that’s what I do.
Of course I get it. We're a small 10 men shop as well. We have a whole warehouse of material stock and left over material from screwed up jobs. Never throw that stuff away and it does come in handy a lot. Take a look at this trepanning operation I did a while back. Saved around 2500 cores of 4140HT that we still have laying around.
ruclips.net/video/om1PsqsC_fc/видео.html
You don't even have to face the part before running this drill. It will handle the saw cut face with no issue. Although this is a good work horse I personally like the Kennametal KSEMP drill. At 3.5" dia. we cut a 15" deep hole in less than 2 min. Break through is perfect with no deflection even in intersecting holes at any angle. They are also very durable. We have used them for 3 years now in a production shop, used by operators with a wide range of experience, and I have yet to see one damaged. Even if the inserts blow! The HTS will be gone in an instant if you have no coolant or lose an insert.
Yea you are right but I wanted to show full engagement for the video. Very rigid and tough drills these.
Crazy man :) ~200mm diameter ~300mm length & 20mm for chuck. Yeah baby, yeah. That's cool. Safety.
Thanks we try to keep it safe. So far so good.
These drills are really some of the best you can get for enormous diameters, extended reach and price. However, if you're looking for exceptional performance (productivity) and hole quality and are willing to pay for it, consider looking into a KSEM Plus (also by Kennametal).
Kennametal really has some of the best drilling in the industry.
Seeing stuff this large in action really is pretty cool
I have a job I'm getting ready to set up that is 2000 holes in 4140HT. I will give your recommendation a try. Also looking at Allied Drills. They have some interesting ones that I want to try.
Well there's the baby drill....wheres the big one
great video - good setup showing all of the steps to get to the deep bore. Okuma made a strong machine and its a shame to see some of the other lower quality tools come to market, that could never do this. this is from a 40 year cnc (was nc with paper tape) repair engineer. thank you for posting
theres a 50 year old okuma lathe at my shop the bed is no good anymore but the small machines got more horsepower than almost all the other machines in the shop 🤣
This is great and wake up memories (I am currently working at cnc mills).. I used a drill similar to this, in my cnc lathe. Tho, in my opinion is better to have a OD cut first. This is helpful and the piece is turning smoothly. Maybe u can raise the max RPM (G50) after that for better finishing face results. Anyway, thx for uploading this.
You know what you're talking about. An OD balances the part and less chance of part flying out. On this video it was good enough but on other parts I do that all the time.
Use opposite hand tools reverse the spindle and put the forces against the turret - your trying to pull up on your turret the way it is - also consider turning OD before facing to help keep it in the chuck - nice shop and equipment
I've heard this alot but never really noticed any difference. I will take this into concideration. Thanks.
Сверло супер. Экономия времени, качество работы и удешевление процесса. Вещь!
Спасибо, мой русский друг. Как говорится в видео, это мое любимое упражнение из-за экономии времени.
А время - деньги.
That first facing cut sounded like a steam engine pullin outta the station & accelerating away !! Choo Choo !! 😂😂
Choo Choo
Damn this thing is a beast
How long thin-walled tubes are bored?
Inside which the piston moves, and the surface must be perfect ..
Process called honing. We do that as well in our gundrilling and honing shop. Take a look at the video it's not exactly for a hydraulic cylinder but the concept is the same.
ruclips.net/video/HAVNtZuFQU0/видео.html
I wonder if all the cooling oil, water, is just a one time waste or will it be filtered and reused?
The coolant just falls back into the tank through the chip conveyor and maybe a screen depending on the machine to be pumped through again. There is probably 30 to 50 gallons in that machine.
@MarTool What chuck pressure do you use when machining bit parts with quite a lot of overhang? Do you always soft jaw or hard jaw and bite in ?
250-350 psi about. Always prefer hard jaws on rough material then use soft jaws on side 2. Get a good concentric hold that way.
I used to use a similar machine, drilling those large diameter holes is quite the adrenaline rush .. All of your senses are running at peak levels ... I miss it actually
Favorite part of the job. After you do all your checks and know the program is good. Final step is to just Fucken Send It. A rush everytime for sure.
always wondering how are you so sure, that the part wont come out from the chucks. How big is the pressure/force from the chucks. And did you use tailstock for the next operations (specially roughing) or everything was done without it?
Btw. You inspire me every time with your videos. Wish i could finish my apprenticeship by you.
Exactly I always wondering each and every time !!!!!
The most important skill on any lathe is part holding. You have to be sure you are holding each part the best possible way. If you have a strong hold you can push it. Weak hold you back off the depth of cut and/or feed. This part I held with hard jaws with plenty of pressure. I've thrown my fair share of parts but got it pretty well down. Somewhat predictable.
Oh and you always gotta control your max spindle speed. G50S1000 on this part because of solid hold.
Also balance your part has to be balanced. If the rough material is not balanced I will turn the OD first to make it perfectly balance before spinning it fast. Remember balance.
Well that's a simple answer. You're not always sure!
Also worth adding you have to consider force direction too, drilling on a lathe will practically never throw a part as its pushing it into the chuck, od turning - grooving is about the worse, facing can be some were between.
I’m no machinist I was curious as to why this lathe cuts from the bottom is it the way the machine is designed or is there any other advantage to it cutting this way?
on a normal lathe the tool bits are mounted on the front of the machine. The spindle is turning ccw as yo look at the spindle, so the mount the tolls upside down to run the spindle in forward (ccw) direction.
How's it cut inconnell?
Hii sir I am from India we required a used cnc machine for drill.
Pl reply
I see this on my job, they use it for drilling long shafts, I am using an insert drill for my part, how much back pressure is this putting on your indexer?
Haha that sound when the drill goes through the piece and the chip breaks and fly off 🤘👌😁😎
Lots of pressure up to 100-110% on Z load.
I have hundreds of those little disks laying around. Sharp and dangerous like Xena's flying wheel.
By rough cutting you can go way faster
Vc 200 m/min
Ap 4mm
F 0.6
The Insert shouldn't make any problems.
I like this kind of drill, too 👍
Depends. Roughing with a 11" boring bar is gonna vibrate A LOT, unless it is several inches wide. Drilling big and using a big ass boring bar is always better. This is probably what he's doing anyway, you can see the boring bar in the turret.
I get yelled at for going too fast in this shop but I'll take ur advise and kick it up a notch. Thanks.
@@zalamachineshop I was yelled for using 40mm indexable drill at 500 RPM and 0.14mm/rev......85% load on machine, and what? it was minute to run that drill through 60mm long part, nothing bad would happen... but no, I was too harsh on the machine, but they didn´t say that the program was running minute longer then in what time I was supposed to finish one part :)
How many horsepower do you need for this drill?
Amazing commentary, just held me on the edge of my seat with his extremely descriptive and in depth explanation of what’s happening the video 👎
Scary stuff. Imagine if the chuck let go at 1000rpm. The torque needed for that bit must be immense.
Turning coolant on while inserts were already cuting is not good idea. Carbide inserts are sensitive to thermoshock.
Carbite can handle it a way better than ceramic or CBN, they are really sensetive.
I agree with Marko, I know you wanted us to see the initial engagement! Can remember doing this with Moskegon flat cutters on stainless billets!
Exactly Bobby when running normally I always blast coolant.
@@zalamachineshopNow when I think again it makes sense not runing it with coolant for demonstration so you can see those sexy chips forming. Didn't think of this aspect before so thanks for demo! Cheers!
Which rotation is the work piece turning
Pretty nice drill! What's the rpm and work feed?
Na jaką głębokość te szczęki są zatoczone i jakie masz ciśnienie ustawione na uchwycie? Też używamy wiertła składane tej firmy i są petarda, niestety takiego modułowego jeszcze się nie dorobiliśmy. Ale i tak najlepsze z tego filmiku jest mocowanie detalu. Kozak👍👍👍
Te sa akurat twarde szczeki. Trzymaja jakies 25mm gleboko wbijaja sie w material.
What is the feed-rate during drilling?
Which one do you like more the trepanning tool or this drill?
I love this drill because I can change shanks and do different depths. Plus this drill pushes it pushes real good.
That's an awesome looking drill. Is the pilot hole required?
No that was me just lining it up. The yellow pilot leads the drill.
Are you getting hit with coolant this whole time, with the back leakage, or the front spraying? You are quite the trooper for making this video either way though. Something got soaked. Nicely done. :)
Hahah very good eye. The coolant was shooting between my legs and onto the floor. I had a very wide stance on this one. Gotta get the shot you know.
What coolant are you using?
Kennametal is the best, hands down. HTS body with DFT inserts are the way to go.
Sandvik #1 IMO.
Overpriced, terrible application service and not American based.
Couldn't agree more 6AL-4V
Drilling actually starts at 4:04. You're welcome.
How well does it cut in real metal? Like stainless steel for example
Just as fast or faster. Problem in stainless is breaking the chip if your machine is not strong enough.
Smooth as silk. Nice
I drill with it every week on my vtl ... this is the only drill that works well since Im limited to 350 rpm
Okuma.. looks like mine on the inside. 10 years ago I had first 3" seco insert drill to show up in the country.
There are many great brands. I have a brand new allied drill coming this week for a 1000 hole job. 2 7/8" dia.
For 4 inch index able drill,(dia.101.6 mm drill) and all parameters for drilling are in Metric Standard
a) Cutting Speed Should be Vc=57 m/min
b)N(rpm)=178 rpm
c)Feed per Revolution (Fn)=0.2
d)Length(l)=266.7 mm
Therefore ,Time=Length/(Fn x N)
=266.7/(0.2 x 178)
=7.49 min
Did you used above parameters at this film??
Yesterday I drilled same hole same drill. No good chips
My material steel S355
n -(350-400)
F 0.1
Where is problem?
We have 11kw cnc machine. 250mm chuck .Can u give the suggestion for maximum size for u drill?
@@karoll9569the problem is S355 steel. It's very difficult to get it to break chips while drilling and you need special serrated inserts which unfortunately increase torque
@@waytolearn360most likely the load on Z axis will max out before the spindle so watch out for that
Beautiful mate I use these but struggling getting a chip. What speeds and feeds you doing in that steel?
You gotta feed faster if your machine can handle it.
I’ve used the same drill never used a pilot though. Squeals a lot in stainless
Witam
Widzę że kolega z Polski
Wczoraj wiercilismy takim samym wiertłem tylko fi 96
Obroty około 400 i posuw był z 0.05-0.06 to powierzchnia wychodzi w miarę ok ale łamanie wióra tragedia wstęgi itp
.Gdy zwiększyłem posuw do około 0.12-0.14 zaczęło łamać ale powierzenia straszne głębokie rysy normalnie gwint
Materiał s 355
Proszę o jakieś rady
Czesc Karol sorry ze tak puzno odpowiadam ale wiem co u was sie dzialo. Jak takie rysy robi to albo pilot jest tepy albo zle naostrzony albo za malo wysuniety. Albo mocowanie za slabe. Jak maszyna da rady to wiertlo zapierdala.
Nie mam czasu to wpadac bo roboty od groma.
Pozdrawiam Polske.
Hi, Very good drill what was your speeds and feeds ? What make drill and where did you purchase. Very good video impressive.
Kennametal HTS Drill.
Speed about 400
Feed about .0035
I had one of these in 240mm mounted on a 170mm dia bar 4m long , gee that could remove some metal.
A simple video but still good to watch.
It was a little nervous watching the facing op, lol.
But as mentioned below, i am sure we would have seen a different video if something went bad.
Thanks sharing this with us.
Peter.
I think it is mori seiki machine??
This one is an Okuma LBX 4000EX Turning Center
Super drill!
Inserts were worn bad before this cut. Shows how good Kennametal is.
Was looking around for some big-boy indexable inserts for my small lathe, went with McMaster-Carr but I might try Kennametal next
Good God that's a big ass piece of rapidly spinning metal! What's it going to be used for?
Honestly not sure for this one got the job from a friendly shop cause they couldn't handle it.
Good work!
Sir Drill Jb Chalna Tu kitne RMP Pay Chlna Max ??
im using HTS drills up to 120mm diameter. beasts.
What's your chuck pressure at?
amazing work ,i really love this type of drealing tool
Magnificent tool, congratulations
Here in Sweden i have been using those Kenna drills from 75 to 140mm and up to 1000 mm deep with extensions.
Our problem with a booring mill was that we had no option to by any swivel that put put cutting force on the “flats” instead of bolts. We had to reduce feed with the result of no breaking of chips.
Result was that every swivel broke within hours.
I made an own Capto C8 swivel that distributed the force on the small flats above the cylindrical clamping area. Now we are putting 40-50kw into the drill in only 120-180rpm to get the chips to break.
Here we don’t know if Kenna have a swivel to sell. If.. they need to get that in their European catalogue.
But if they don’t I have a simple cheap construction with a C8 Capto blank which improves performance.... 😉
Хорошее свёрлышко!
Hallo! Cool. Which inserts did y use for it?
Just curios how these jaws uphold the weight of this huge chunk of metal after spinning?
Hydraulic chucks like this one must be can generate incredible amounts of pressure.
@@fossy4321 Well yeah it's, but still the geometry I mean the form of the jaws or to be more accurate the deepness that the detail goes in in the jaws just looks not enough!
@@KnownasILkoo Believe me hydraulic chucks are amazingly powerful I worked a Takisawa TS30F Japanese lathe for 30 years or so (top of the range incredibly accurate almost to grinding standards) twice the size of this machine and I would happily let it rev to 2000 or above with this workpiece. The dangerous bit was when you went back onto a small manual machine and forgot how poor the clamping of manual chucks was! Things flying everywhere till you remembered which you did very quickly! Ha Ha
The pressure is so high that the hard jaw will make an imprint on the surface of the part. As long as the tool is sharp and cutting and part is fairly balanced it is ok.
Could you share chuck pressure please?
Very good! I like it.
What is the price of this drill
I've ran a 4.5 inch one of these into plastic on a doosan 400. 1500rpm .045 per rev. Looked like snow.
I have a Doosan 300 and run this drill even faster in that one. Weaker spindle but stronger z axis
@@zalamachineshop I miss running large lathes honestly. I'm doing the swiss thing now and the tiny parts don't cut it for me.
A former work place of mine has a 240mm HTS drill that will drill 2+ Meters deep.
Beast of a drill.
Very good technology.