This is a good video you made it look easy and straight forward. I’m starting a restoration on a fiberglass dune buggy, and need to find the Vin on the Chassis as the buggy was disassembled I’ve started watching videos to get the presses stated. VW are a new critter for me so I’m going to be watching a lot of video. To learn new skills. I spotted the vin in the video so I have a starting place to determine it’s age. Let the fun begin!
I just got my stock shifter from JBugs today and after watching this vid, I was able to install it in a short amount of time. Thank you!! My interior looks way better with a shiny new shifter!
@@cubey I do it by myself and have many times. I can't think of any part of this process where a second person would be overly helpful let alone a necessity.
Thanks for the video. I'm suddenly having issues getting my car to go into first gear. It now takes some time and slips in.. Is this something that could help? Thanks again.....
Thank you for making this straightforward video. Nitrile gloves will keep you from getting skinned knuckles. :-) Good lithium-based grease on your new bushings will help them while they break in.
Great vid & finally a vid that speaks about the lock out plate lugs being orientated left or right as so many say drivers side etc which is misleading for right hand drive cars!!
Hi, I did this exact step with my autostick, but I found after I removed my shifter to replace the contact points, my shift rod is no longer center and is now stuck semi recessed into the hole to the bottom left and I am not able to pull it back out far enough so I can properly install the shift lock out plate. (I know this is for a manual, but this is the only precise video on installing a shifter in general, yes I tried install the shift lock out plate in its correct position too, however, it just pops out of gear when moving around because of the location of the shift rod cup.
If the shift rod isn't moving somewhat freely, that is most likely the cause. I would start by going back to the shift coupler under the rear seat and see if you can get the transmission shifted back to neutral so you can get the shifter properly installed and go from there.
@@Sam_Mebane Hey Sam, thank you so much for getting back to me. I've never worked on an old bug before, let alone a VW car. I know the area you're talking about and the coupler, but how am I meant to get it in gear manually from that area? Do I pull on the coupler, or the rod? I'm not sure how you would manually shift it back into neutral. Thank you! it does seem like its stuck in Low gear (bottom left) and doesn't move.
@@FallyFire you can pull on either, assuming the coupler is attached to the rod. If the rod is pushed back fully at the moment, the transmission is either in reverse or "1st" gear (2nd really as L is 1st). You can pull the rod or coupler toward the front of the car slightly to the neutral position, then you can try reinstalling the shifter.
@@Sam_Mebane Hey Sam, I appreciate the response again! Just went out to finally work on the bug and I pulled on the shift coupling, it's definitely attached. But the shift rod itself I noticed is cock-eyed so it makes it impossible for the shifter to seat correctly. I noticed there was this broken rubber like piece towards the head of the shift rod, where the shifter connects to. Could this be part of the bushing? There was a small metal ring around it just freely moving on the rod itself, so I was wondering if that bushing keeps the rod from turning in the tunnel on itself. I'm starting to think that the bushing got so worn out, that when I pulled the shifter off to replace the contact point, the bushing sliced itself from being rubber or something, and just completely made it unusable. EDIT - It was the bushing, I will be using this video for reference on replacing!
I heard a annoying rattle looked at the bushing there wasn't much off it left and was not in the hanger at all new one ordered hope it fixes the rattle
Hi JBugs, saw your video and it was great. One problem though, After installing new coupler and tunnel bushing and re-installing the shifter with the reverse lockout plate with the long lip towards passenger side, I cannot get the lockout feature for reverse.when shifting from 1 to 2, I can also accidentally shift into reverse. Theres no pushing down and left and back lockout. The car shifts into 1/2/3/4 okay except for reverse. It scares me to drive it because I can grind my gears. What did I miss. I have a standard shifter with the spring. Nothing fancy. Help!!
If the lock out plate is in the correct position, you can try the factory shifter alignment operation: Press the clutch pedal down and put the car in second gear. Loosen the shifter bolts, and set the shifter vertically (from left to right) and angled back 11 degrees. Using a flathead screwdriver, push the lock out plate to the left, until it hits, and moves the shifter. Hold the shifter top base there and tighten the screws. Shift through all the gears and make sure that the reverse lock out is operating. If there are still problems after this, you may have a damaged shift rod, shifter or lock out plate.
Can you change out the coupler without changing out or dismantling the rest of the system? The lockout plate is aligned well and I don't want to mess it up.
Is there a video on how to change the shifter bushing on a 1971 Super Beetle. I think there's a different opening in the front for the shift rod since the spare tire lays flat. Thanks.
ruclips.net/video/7btjeporK98/видео.html We cover the removal on our 1971 Super Beetle in that video. The removal is pretty much the same but instead of the small oval plate, the inner trunk plate and the round cover, there is a "crumple guard" under the chassis the gets removed on a Super Beetle. Then the rod can come out below the trunk.
On this video you mentioned something about safety wire but you didn’t show were or how it goes and I think that is the problem I’m having on my bug the screw keeps coming off and detatching from the transmission the rivet that’s on the bar doesn’t go all the way though so the grub screw has nothing to grab onto I think
The safety wire for the grub screw goes through the hole in the head of the screw, then wraps around the coupler and gets twisted together. This prevents the screw from twisting out of place.
JBUGS not sure if you guys received my last message but I was askin about what is safety wire or where to purchase safety wire also I was looking for the shift rod that connects to the transmission rod with both ends that have the little dimple for the grub screw to grab ahold of but I couldn’t find it on your website I did see the one were the shifter sits in but at the end of that rod it’s bare and hollow and I don’t think that’s it for my bug ?? Any suggestions please
Safety wire is usually thin stainless steel wire between 0.20" to 0.41" in diameter. We do not offer any on our website but it can commonly be found on other online stores or in hardware stores. The main purpose of safety wire is to help keel the screw from turning all the way out. In some cases Loctite or other types of fasteners may help with keeping the screw in place. If you have further questions please feel free to call us at 1-800-231-1784 and our technicians will be happy to answer any further questions you may have.
Just did this, theres quite alot of resistance when pushing the rod through the bushing, cant push it in by hand like the video, what am I doing wrong?
Can changing the front tranny mount throw the alignment of the shifter off? As after installing a rebuilt engine on my 67 bus along with the tranny mount the shifter is grinding going into reverse, like its not going far enough into gear and when it is and I let up on the clutch it just pops out of gear. Hmm?
Shifting problems can arise from a worn shifter, shift rod coupler, shift coupler, worn shift rod bushings or problems inside the transmission. We’d start by making sure the shift rod bushings and couplers are in good shape. Additionally, you can disconnect the shift rod from the transmission and shift the transmission into reverse at the shift lever or (hockey stick) to make sure that reverse is still working properly. The shift lever would be rotated to the car’s right hand side and then pulled forward to engage reverse. This test might be where to start as the problem you’re describing is synonymous with a bad reverse gear.
Yeah Ill try that but it just seems strange there would be a problem inside the transmission as it was working fine before I started doing all this work, no? And I just now tried readjusting the reverse plate by doing it the way Bob and Dave explain doing it by keeping it in reverse then loosing the 2 bolts just enough to slide the plate forward and to the left without moving the shifter itself then tightening it down, but that didn't help. Thanks for your help!
Oh and I forget to mention that I also changed the clutch cable, and bowden tube and had tried tightening the cable down a little more but that didn't help.
Hey JBugs, just curious...but couldn't you just use some blue locktite in place of safety wire for that grub screw. Or would it be better to use a piece of wire? Or maybe both? What are you're thoughts? Thanks for the video!!
That depends on which shifter you have. VW used a 7mm, a 10mm and a 12mm knob depending on the year and other aftermarket shifters have different thread sizes as well.
Dear Sirs, i have a vw 1973 classic beetle where i need to rebuild or repair the manual shifter, however, my car doesn't have the 2 access plates. How can i repair it? your prompt answer is highly appreciated, thanks and regards. Vicken
+Vicken Sagherian Hello Vicken! Your vehicle not having an access plate sounds like a situation out of the ordinary, but our technicians are happy to help if you need any information. Please call 1-800-231-1784 and we will be happy to assist you over the phone with a question like this.
no need to buy a who;e roll of safety wire. Go to your local airport and the mechanic wil be happy to give you a foot of it. As for a super beetle, you can push the tube far enough forward to access the nylon bushing to install a new one . no need to remove the tube from the car, Don't be afraid to use grease wherever it is needed and makes sense. Good crusing.
All the components are the same inside the tunnel. Removing the shift rod is a bit different because of the front suspension design of the Super Beetle. The rod is accessed under the front apron and may require removing the front sway bar mounts and, depending on any damage to the body, loosening the front body to chassis mounts to get the rod out and clear of the front apron.
@@JBugsVWParts Dang...that much more work? Ugh. I wish I knew more when I bought my bug around 10 years ago. I thought they were all pretty much the same. Had I known then what I know now I would have never got a Super Beetle. :P Some people love Super Beetles, and that's great. But I want to get an older regular Beetle.
As for the original 8 ball shift knob, that came with the car. All of the shift knobs we offer are available here: www.jbugs.com/category/vw-shift-knobs.html
I have a 1968 Semi-Automatic ,3 speed. beetle and on the shifter there is a wire that goes in this little hole. The wire is lose not allowing shift. I took it out to try to fix it but it doesn't want to stay in. Anyone have this problem.
+Howitzer2001 More than likely you are referring to the shifter contact points. We don't offer them but the VW part number is 113713145A if you can find a supplier that still has it available.
Aircooled_Flat4_vdub We don't have a kit set up for this, but here is a list of each part we used for this video: - www.jbugs.com/product/113798121.html - $24.95 - www.jbugs.com/product/311798211.html - $8.95 - www.jbugs.com/product/111701259A.html - $1.95 - www.jbugs.com/product/111701263.html - $2.50 This can be somewhat of a tough install. If you get stuck at any point, make sure to give us a call and we will help you out! 1-800-231-1784
I’ve been trying to get the rod out of the front for an hour now and I’m ready to freak. The cup is all the way at the bottom left of the inspection cover. What a waste of a day. Again
I've always wondered why late models had the circle on the front apron... you learn something new every day.
This is a good video you made it look easy and straight forward. I’m starting a restoration on a fiberglass dune buggy, and need to find the Vin on the Chassis as the buggy was disassembled I’ve started watching videos to get the presses stated. VW are a new critter for me so I’m going to be watching a lot of video. To learn new skills. I spotted the vin in the video so I have a starting place to determine it’s age. Let the fun begin!
Have a blast Daniel, welcome to the addiction!
I just got my stock shifter from JBugs today and after watching this vid, I was able to install it in a short amount of time. Thank you!! My interior looks way better with a shiny new shifter!
Did you do it by yourself, or with help? Some videos say you need a second person.
@@cubey I do it by myself and have many times. I can't think of any part of this process where a second person would be overly helpful let alone a necessity.
Thanks man, just what I needed to know how this setup works thank you
Great video showing everything that needs to be shown. Thanks!
I used a broom stick on one end, the other side, the hole side I used coat janger to pass the shitrod through the bushing.
Straight forward, no nonsense!
…thx so much
Glad to help!
Thanks for the video. I'm suddenly having issues getting my car to go into first gear. It now takes some time and slips in.. Is this something that could help? Thanks again.....
It certainly won't hurt the matter. If the coupler and bushing are worn, replacing them will firm everything up.
Thank you for making this straightforward video. Nitrile gloves will keep you from getting skinned knuckles. :-) Good lithium-based grease on your new bushings will help them while they break in.
Nitrile gloves rarely help my knuckles and I don't like the "feel" or lack of it so I deal with the dirty hands!
Great vid & finally a vid that speaks about the lock out plate lugs being orientated left or right as so many say drivers side etc which is misleading for right hand drive cars!!
great video love your guy's videos please don't stop making them they help tremendously
Hi, I did this exact step with my autostick, but I found after I removed my shifter to replace the contact points, my shift rod is no longer center and is now stuck semi recessed into the hole to the bottom left and I am not able to pull it back out far enough so I can properly install the shift lock out plate. (I know this is for a manual, but this is the only precise video on installing a shifter in general, yes I tried install the shift lock out plate in its correct position too, however, it just pops out of gear when moving around because of the location of the shift rod cup.
If the shift rod isn't moving somewhat freely, that is most likely the cause. I would start by going back to the shift coupler under the rear seat and see if you can get the transmission shifted back to neutral so you can get the shifter properly installed and go from there.
@@Sam_Mebane Hey Sam, thank you so much for getting back to me. I've never worked on an old bug before, let alone a VW car. I know the area you're talking about and the coupler, but how am I meant to get it in gear manually from that area? Do I pull on the coupler, or the rod? I'm not sure how you would manually shift it back into neutral. Thank you! it does seem like its stuck in Low gear (bottom left) and doesn't move.
@@FallyFire you can pull on either, assuming the coupler is attached to the rod. If the rod is pushed back fully at the moment, the transmission is either in reverse or "1st" gear (2nd really as L is 1st). You can pull the rod or coupler toward the front of the car slightly to the neutral position, then you can try reinstalling the shifter.
@@Sam_Mebane Hey Sam, I appreciate the response again! Just went out to finally work on the bug and I pulled on the shift coupling, it's definitely attached. But the shift rod itself I noticed is cock-eyed so it makes it impossible for the shifter to seat correctly. I noticed there was this broken rubber like piece towards the head of the shift rod, where the shifter connects to. Could this be part of the bushing? There was a small metal ring around it just freely moving on the rod itself, so I was wondering if that bushing keeps the rod from turning in the tunnel on itself. I'm starting to think that the bushing got so worn out, that when I pulled the shifter off to replace the contact point, the bushing sliced itself from being rubber or something, and just completely made it unusable. EDIT - It was the bushing, I will be using this video for reference on replacing!
Why was the shift lever/rod replaced? I understand the lock out plate, but why the sifter??
The original shifter was replaced, yes. Mainly because it was easier than sanding down and painting the original.
I heard a annoying rattle looked at the bushing there wasn't much off it left and was not in the hanger at all new one ordered hope it fixes the rattle
Excellent video and explanation of shifter operation
Hi JBugs, saw your video and it was great. One problem though, After installing new coupler and tunnel bushing and re-installing the shifter with the reverse lockout plate with the long lip towards passenger side, I cannot get the lockout feature for reverse.when shifting from 1 to 2, I can also accidentally shift into reverse. Theres no pushing down and left and back lockout. The car shifts into 1/2/3/4 okay except for reverse. It scares me to drive it because I can grind my gears. What did I miss. I have a standard shifter with the spring. Nothing fancy. Help!!
If the lock out plate is in the correct position, you can try the factory shifter alignment operation:
Press the clutch pedal down and put the car in second gear. Loosen the shifter bolts, and set the shifter vertically (from left to right) and angled back 11 degrees. Using a flathead screwdriver, push the lock out plate to the left, until it hits, and moves the shifter. Hold the shifter top base there and tighten the screws. Shift through all the gears and make sure that the reverse lock out is operating.
If there are still problems after this, you may have a damaged shift rod, shifter or lock out plate.
I have the same issue to
This the same for 67 beetle?
The 67 Beetle has a longer hood, so the access plates at the front apron are slightly different. Otherwise the process is the same, yes.
Can you change out the coupler without changing out or dismantling the rest of the system? The lockout plate is aligned well and I don't want to mess it up.
Yes, the shift coupler can be changed without removing the shifter.
Hey, you can’t simply reach in and grab the shift rod- how to pull it out?
Have you not watched all the video? It's pushed out the front of the car.
I found it easier to put the coupler on the shifting shaft first and slide it on to the transmission.
Is there a video on how to change the shifter bushing on a 1971 Super Beetle. I think there's a different opening in the front for the shift rod since the spare tire lays flat. Thanks.
ruclips.net/video/7btjeporK98/видео.html We cover the removal on our 1971 Super Beetle in that video. The removal is pretty much the same but instead of the small oval plate, the inner trunk plate and the round cover, there is a "crumple guard" under the chassis the gets removed on a Super Beetle. Then the rod can come out below the trunk.
On this video you mentioned something about safety wire but you didn’t show were or how it goes and I think that is the problem I’m having on my bug the screw keeps coming off and detatching from the transmission the rivet that’s on the bar doesn’t go all the way though so the grub screw has nothing to grab onto I think
The safety wire for the grub screw goes through the hole in the head of the screw, then wraps around the coupler and gets twisted together. This prevents the screw from twisting out of place.
JBUGS Sweet thanks...what is safety wire and where can I get it ??
JBUGS not sure if you guys received my last message but I was askin about what is safety wire or where to purchase safety wire also I was looking for the shift rod that connects to the transmission rod with both ends that have the little dimple for the grub screw to grab ahold of but I couldn’t find it on your website I did see the one were the shifter sits in but at the end of that rod it’s bare and hollow and I don’t think that’s it for my bug ?? Any suggestions please
Safety wire is usually thin stainless steel wire between 0.20" to 0.41" in diameter. We do not offer any on our website but it can commonly be found on other online stores or in hardware stores. The main purpose of safety wire is to help keel the screw from turning all the way out. In some cases Loctite or other types of fasteners may help with keeping the screw in place. If you have further questions please feel free to call us at 1-800-231-1784 and our technicians will be happy to answer any further questions you may have.
Good stuff!
great video, easy to follow!!
Is it that why I couldn’t get in 2nd gear. Now i think know why.
Why is the bushing slit on one side?
That's the way VW made it, I'm not certain why!
Just did this, theres quite alot of resistance when pushing the rod through the bushing, cant push it in by hand like the video, what am I doing wrong?
It won't always go back by hand, I've used anything from a broom stick to a long extension on some cars to get the shift rod pushed back in place.
Can changing the front tranny mount throw the alignment of the shifter off? As after installing a rebuilt engine on my 67 bus along with the tranny mount the shifter is grinding going into reverse, like its not going far enough into gear and when it is and I let up on the clutch it just pops out of gear. Hmm?
Shifting problems can arise from a worn shifter, shift rod coupler, shift coupler, worn shift rod bushings or problems inside the transmission. We’d start by making sure the shift rod bushings and couplers are in good shape.
Additionally, you can disconnect the shift rod from the transmission and shift the transmission into reverse at the shift lever or (hockey stick) to make sure that reverse is still working properly. The shift lever would be rotated to the car’s right hand side and then pulled forward to engage reverse. This test might be where to start as the problem you’re describing is synonymous with a bad reverse gear.
Yeah Ill try that but it just seems strange there would be a problem inside the transmission as it was working fine before I started doing all this work, no? And I just now tried readjusting the reverse plate by doing it the way Bob and Dave explain doing it by keeping it in reverse then loosing the 2 bolts just enough to slide the plate forward and to the left without moving the shifter itself then tightening it down, but that didn't help. Thanks for your help!
Oh and I forget to mention that I also changed the clutch cable, and bowden tube and had tried tightening the cable down a little more but that didn't help.
Hey JBugs, just curious...but couldn't you just use some blue locktite in place of safety wire for that grub screw. Or would it be better to use a piece of wire? Or maybe both? What are you're thoughts? Thanks for the video!!
+dawg1157
Loctite may be able to be used but safety wire is tried and true, typically fail safe method of securing the screw.
HI I LIKE TO CHANGE MY SHIFTER KNOB!! I NEED THE THREAD SIZE ??
THANK
That depends on which shifter you have. VW used a 7mm, a 10mm and a 12mm knob depending on the year and other aftermarket shifters have different thread sizes as well.
Is this the same for a 69 squareback?
The general process is, removing the shift rod is a little simpler on the Type 3.
Dear Sirs, i have a vw 1973 classic beetle where i need to rebuild or repair the manual shifter, however, my car doesn't have the 2 access plates. How can i repair it? your prompt answer is highly appreciated, thanks and regards. Vicken
+Vicken Sagherian
Hello Vicken! Your vehicle not having an access plate sounds like a situation out of the ordinary, but our technicians are happy to help if you need any information. Please call 1-800-231-1784 and we will be happy to assist you over the phone with a question like this.
ruclips.net/video/7btjeporK98/видео.html We cover the removal on our 1971 Super Beetle in that video.
+JBUGS One thing that everyone goes crazy about (that was missed) was to lather grease on the plastic bushing and the ball and socket for the shifter.
We didn't wipe the grease off the original rod, so we didn't need to regrease ours but yes, apply grease as needed!
no need to buy a who;e roll of safety wire. Go to your local airport and the mechanic wil be happy to give you a foot of it.
As for a super beetle, you can push the tube far enough forward to access the nylon bushing to install a new one . no need to remove the tube from the car, Don't be afraid to use grease wherever it is needed and makes sense. Good crusing.
Where can I get this same shifter
The stock style shifter is available here: www.jbugs.com/product/113798121.html
Excellent video. Thanks.
Good video. But what I don't understand, is why everybody replaces the cage instead of just replacing the bushings.
Agreed. Most likely because more VW retailers sell the kits complete with the cage.
@@Sam_Mebane I had to buy the kit, but the new cage looked inferior to the old one, so I re-used it. Just replacing the bushings.
Great video!
Is this the same on the 58 model?
More or less, the early models have a different coupler and different access plates in the trunk. Otherwise the whole process is pretty much the same.
More or less, the early models have a different coupler and different access plates in the trunk. Otherwise the whole process is pretty much the same.
I have a 74 super beetle and i was wondering if it was the same?
All the components are the same inside the tunnel. Removing the shift rod is a bit different because of the front suspension design of the Super Beetle. The rod is accessed under the front apron and may require removing the front sway bar mounts and, depending on any damage to the body, loosening the front body to chassis mounts to get the rod out and clear of the front apron.
Awesome thank you!
@@JBugsVWParts Dang...that much more work? Ugh. I wish I knew more when I bought my bug around 10 years ago. I thought they were all pretty much the same. Had I known then what I know now I would have never got a Super Beetle. :P Some people love Super Beetles, and that's great. But I want to get an older regular Beetle.
Add cleaning, lubricating.
And make sure to wash your hands afterwards.
The ball that’s on top of the shifter where can I get it
As for the original 8 ball shift knob, that came with the car. All of the shift knobs we offer are available here: www.jbugs.com/category/vw-shift-knobs.html
No grease?
Wow that’s what I thought and didn’t even clean the rod off either.
The rod was overly greased so yes, no grease.
I have a 1968 Semi-Automatic ,3 speed. beetle and on the shifter there is a wire that goes in this little hole. The wire is lose not allowing shift. I took it out to try to fix it but it doesn't want to stay in. Anyone have this problem.
+Howitzer2001
More than likely you are referring to the shifter contact points. We don't offer them but the VW part number is 113713145A if you can find a supplier that still has it available.
JBUGS thank you very much
Thanks for the help @jbugs
How much does this kit cost? JBUGS
Aircooled_Flat4_vdub
We don't have a kit set up for this, but here is a list of each part we used for this video:
- www.jbugs.com/product/113798121.html - $24.95
- www.jbugs.com/product/311798211.html - $8.95
- www.jbugs.com/product/111701259A.html - $1.95
- www.jbugs.com/product/111701263.html - $2.50
This can be somewhat of a tough install. If you get stuck at any point, make sure to give us a call and we will help you out! 1-800-231-1784
that must be the greaseless shifter new model
Seeing as there was an excess of grease on the shaft, there wasn't a need to add anymore.
I’ve been trying to get the rod out of the front for an hour now and I’m ready to freak. The cup is all the way at the bottom left of the inspection cover. What a waste of a day. Again
It can be tough fishing the darn thing out. We're hoping you got it eventually!
I forgot to mention that my car is a 1970 Karmann Ghia if that makes a difference.