Smart repair, painting a bumper blow-in
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Here is a rear bumper local/smart repair I painted. I messed this one up I failed to notice that there was a very faint primer edge which caused a slight halo so this job to be re-worked.
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Blow in, we call it " burn ins"! Same thing lol. Nice work
Thanks man, its strange how the automotive trade has so many different names and processes to do the same thing lol.
Just found your channel luv the smart repairs 👍
Thanks Gary really appreciate it 👍
we have all been there 🤣🤣🤣 great video just found your channel subbed 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thanks man, I really appreciate it. Painting cars is just one of those jobs 🤣
Liked and subscribed 👌
Thanks Pete, really appreciate it 👍
Nice smart repair! What is the name of your shop, I’m in the USA. I worked 18 years at a dealership that ended up going out of business, then a few years at a Car Star, and 6 months at a friends Maaco. After the Car Star and Maaco experience, I hung up the guns. I’ve been out of it for 5 years. It’s hard to find a place to call home. I do a few restorations a year at a friends shop. I would like to get into a high end, laid back shop. The place I worked the longest at didn’t pressure you. We could come in at 7am usually and be done by 1, or 2pm, and make a $1000 a week.
Wow thats awesome. I've worked in places like that, we called it "hide and seek for a grand (£1000) a week"
Unfortunately I can't reveal where I work as we have confidentiality written into our contract which is a shame as its a good company to work for.
ive done a smart repair and where the new laquer hits the old theres a patchy laquer line that keep sgoing back and back but never polishes out? why is this? Also what that blend spray called because you mentioned it blends old laquer with new
Hi Pete,
The fade out thinners is Glasurit 352-500 sd bit other brands sell fade out.
The problem your having is caused by having basecoat on the blend/fade out area (this could be drift and not applied intentionally) it is important to keep the basecoat away. I usually make a paper loop or like in this video a taped area and I pull this back when I'm ready to apply the fade out thinners after lacquer. This ensures no basecoat is under the fade out area and it won't polish back on you. Hope this helps. I will make a more indepth video shortly.
😍😍😍😍😍
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Great job just subscribe 👍
Thanks Dave, really appreciate it 👍
Really top job wish lived by me best of luck mate 👍
Debes hacer una mesa para tener las cosas
Gracias Pedro, sí Ayudaría a mantener las cosas ordenadas en el stand.
What's the model number of the cri lamp? I can't find the one you are using on the internet
Hi Mahesh, this is a torch I'm working on realising under my own brand I am just going through testing at the moment but they will be available soon.
What do u use to prep the area were u did the clear blend.. paper grit?🤔 cheers👍
Hi Gary, I finished my blend area on this job with p2000 and light p3000 trizact under my tape loop. Ideally I'd polish the blend area before prep. Then prep the repair as normal p800 the surrounding area and work in the the fade out area p1000 p2000 and p3000 as I get closer the the masking loop. This will help the old and new lacquer blend together when the fadeout thinners is applied. And if its done correctly it wont need much if any polishing. I hope this helps and I will do a more indepth video on the subject. Thanks.
@@paulphillipspaintwork cheers for reply👍
Just found your channel enjoyed it keep up the great teaching
Thanks @@glennguilliams3613 I'm working on new content so will have new videos up soon.