Joining a truss roof and a traditional cut roof together.
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2024
- In this episode I'll fit a truss roof and then add a lean to roof at the rear of it.
I'll discuss many hints and tips to help you if you want to do it yourself.
Richard. Felt i had to say something. Ive made a living in engineering maintenance and electrical. I watch lots of RUclips vids now ive retired. I would NEVER in a million years make a comment on somebody repairing a car or similar even if i know i would do it differently. You and Adam make some real good stuff and its pure bad manners for people to criticise when youve made an effort to entertain us for free.😳
Me and Adam accept that people have their own opinions which they are entitled to and we’ve been doing it long enough now to realise that it doesn’t matter what we say or do we can’t please everyone. However, I watch a lot of RUclips and if I don’t like something I simply turn it off so I can’t understand the need 🤷. It is difficult to accept some of the nasty comments but for the amount of those we get we get a lot more of kind people like yourself commenting which we thank you very much for. All the best mate 😁👍🏻
@@mrabuilders6723 Ok mate. Thanks for the reply 😁
@@mrabuilders6723 totally agree - thank you for your efforts.
Nothing difficult about roofs!!! You make it look easy Richard. Well done.
The Velux instructions show the trimmers perpendicular to the rafters, not plumb or horizontal anyway.
For an absolute novice, this was fascinating 👍🏻
Bloody good watch that was sunshine well done any youngsters watching would have picked up loads ❤
I’ll tell you what Richard, you must have been top boy at school when it came to geometry 🙂👍
Great job and well explained throughout.
Fantastic video
Sterling job as always mate 👍
Great video, well done.
Tell you what rich it's all thinking about measuring on this roofing lark. Well done👍👍👍
Very interesting Rich 👍
Nice work
I had a batch of trusses recently, had to birdsmouth them due to the raised tie ceiling design. Same issue with the rafter part of the trusses varying in height. I set all birdsmouths from the top of the rafter like you.
educational video, thank you.
Brilliant as always Richie
👍🏻
Great job sir.......3:17 we were told on site "your skin is waterproof" when we wanted to change into our wet gear😅....the good old days😂.
Great video Richard love the tooltime comment ,I don’t think so Tim !!!😂
😂
I agree with your top of rafter to ledger plate and trusses bird's mouth point, if I understand correctly. Put a plate on the end of the truss feet and plumb cut up against the plate. Easy and since when did rafters with plumb cuts slip, compress, vertically? They don't. (unless the wall plate and or wall decides to move) Agree with your velux point too.
That’s also my thought Andy. However, what I have found is where your lean to is against the rear of a house the fact that you have the timber thickness standoff is a good space to run services in especially if you have a waste pipe or something to box in anyway. Just a little more work that’s all. 👍🏻
In North East America we call the distance ( of rafter) above plate height "the stand".
We call it the heal height
Hello mate. Great video. Did you put a link for the square/angle tool in the description? Cannot see it
No I didn’t mate sorry. Here it is 👍🏻
www.essential-carpenter-tools.co.uk/
Daft question, how are the triangle roof truss bits stuck to the wall plates? Great video again…looks like you used metal hangers
They are held down by using truss clips which are very similar to mini joist hangers 👍🏻
@@mrabuilders6723 cheers
😊😊
14:12 - Is there any reason you couldn't check out the top of the ledger to let in the rafter rather than birdsmouth the rafter ?
Hi Richard I work in the midlands been Chippy for twenty years and always learning pal but every roof I’ve ever done doubles have been bolted all way through with round head with square washers on back side minimum m12 spec by building control brum different to us in Wolverhampton/Stafford area?
I had this conversation with a building inspector a few years ago and offered them my reasons for using coach screws and multiple dovetailed nails instead of bolts. They couldn’t tell me I was wrong and couldn’t prove to me that the bolts wouldn’t become loose as timber dried out. Even if locking nuts were used the timber can still shrink especially on roofs done in the winter therefore the bolt becomes useless. As I have said in all my videos it’s not how it should be done it’s just how I do it. Thanks for the comment and watching our video all the best.
At 4.20 on the video when you're talking about getting the trusses in the right place with regard to the existing roof, if I understand correctly you pulled a line down the top edge of the truss to a height above plate block sat onto the back wallplate ? Once you had the truss next to the house in the right place did you position the gable truss by the same front eaves measurement and pull a line between the two to line in the other trusses ?
Sorry but unless I’m misunderstanding you the rear roof isn’t truss it’s cut in with individual timber.
The trusses were placed on the other three wall plates and were paralleled to the wall plate on the front elevation and then checked as I said in the video for the mono pitch part to line up with the rear pitch. Hope that answers your question.
@@mrabuilders6723 It didn't but forget it anyway maybe you need to show some more detail on your videos than explaining the process afterwards. Thanks anyway.
@amazing451 as you may have seen in the comments it’s clearly difficult to find the middle ground when it comes to what I show and how I then explain it.
What in particular is it that you wanted to know? Setting trusses or lining up new and old roofs? I’ll help if I can but maybe better over email 👍🏻
@@mrabuilders6723 I appreciate it is hard for you guys to do these videos and earn a living, but what I couldn't understand was you positioned the front trusses and you said you had to ensure the top edge of the mono truss at the rear would line in with the existing pitch, so did you use a HAP block sat on the rear wallplate to do this. I would have thought just pulling a line down the top of the mono truss edge would not be accurate enough unless you had a fixed point at the wallplate end that was in line with the existing roof. You said your trusses could go back or forwards to ensure this was correct.
Height above plate mate old boy taught saying HAP lol
You watch the Perkins brothers! 😜😜
I do indeed. They are my favourite channel to view. 👍🏻
@@mrabuilders6723 I agree Richie, great mix of skills and humour. Arlo nearly 70 a couple of years younger than me a wise man and held in great respect by the other guys. Great video always look forward to the next one.
Id have built a stud wall over truss ends to carry rafters and birdsmouthed the top of rafters onto stud wall maybe
That’s exactly what I would have done
Yes that would have worked as well. I was led by the truss engineers calcs and spec and that’s what led me to this way. Thanks for commenting 👍🏻
It needs a stud wall there anyway for the plasterboard. So yeah you're right.
Hi, what was the benefit of using the trusses rather then just putting in a ridge beam/ purlins and cutting rafters for the whole span?
It was designed by an architect so I can only presume he felt it to be quicker. Plus the customers didn’t want vaulted ceilings in the front two rooms only the rear. 🤷
I've had the argument with building inspectors before with doing lean-to roofs with the plumb cut against the wall plate the same as a ridge board.
Their argument is absolute horse-sh*t where they have made us put angle brackets either side of the common rafter against the plate trying to say it could move & they should have been birds-mouthed over a lower wall plate. Well why don't we have to do that with commons fixed at the ridge board? Which is where they go quiet.
I don't normally argue with building inspectors & when unsure i always just ask them what way would you like to see X done, But when it comes to roofs (I do quite a few loft conversions for a couple of builders) a lot of building inspectors are lost & architects are absolutely appalling at roofs.
Well Womble you’ve just said exactly what I’ve been saying and did say to a few people on the lean to video where I was called a cowboy amongst other things. Thank you for taking the time to comment on our video. 👍🏻
Birdsmouth (from a total amateur). Yes this will reduce the depth of that rafter to the top of the cut - BUT ONLY AT THAT POINT! The largest load is in the middle & that will still be the full depth. There is virtually no bending moment at the ends, just shear. My point is only the principle as actually I would have done the same (non birdsmouth) as you anyway. Ready to be shot down if I am wrong - please. btw doesn't the same apply to the bottom birdsmouth, which has a higher load (actually I think not as the cut part is overhanging)?
Luke looked as though he would rather watch paint dry, Haaa haa
Did you build the walls?
I didn’t personally but Luke the brickie who remained out of shot in the video did. 👍🏻
@mrabuilders6723 It's a stronger wall with the frog up. Flogged bricks don't hold has well as the holed out bricks so you need to have a full frog at least to give you a chance. It's a way of saving on mortar but compromising the strength of the wall.
Funny how you can butt these two roofs together yet a cut roof the bc make you put a steel in
It never ceases to amaze me what is allowed on one job and not on the next 🤷
An English cowboy? Yeah right
Why 600 centres?
And then a 200 centre in last truss at new gable ?????
A simple roof if you know what your at
I’ll leave that with you to discuss with a truss engineer in your own time. Thanks for watching
@@mrabuilders6723
We put all Trusses on at 400 centres
@@MrAdam2006boy What about when you need to put a loft trap in? Trusses always go at 600mm centres unless the drawing says otherwise, the last truss will normally end up closer.
I see the part where you was explaining cutting angles on plywood sheets, about all the measurements, mark both edges with the measurements then instead of pulling a middle measurement - there’s something called a chalk line mate just ping a line😉🤣
You’re not wrong unless of course you haven’t got one
@@mrabuilders6723 I feel it’s essential on a toolbelt! Especially in 1st fixes of carpentry work! Only problem is the rain kills them🤪
Couldn’t agree more it’s definitely a tool that’s a top 10 of hand tools a carpenter must have but as you say if it’s wet at all your screwed and in this country so far this year it’s been nothing but rain
I love learning tips, tricks, cheats, workarounds and alternative methods. They will always bail you out one day, and it’s interesting! 😊
Sorry but you talk to much
Thank you for the comment Robert and I’m sorry you feel the need to tell me that rather than just not watching. Have a good day
@@mrabuilders6723 thank you for your efforts and educating us. as always appreciated.
OMG, you could talk for England. More doing and demonstrating please and less talking. I'm sure you know what your gabbing about but I'm not so sure the rest of us do. .
The details and explanations are very useful to some of us, and much appreciated.
Thank you. I wasn’t going to bother responding to that last comment but that’s exactly what I thought. Thanks for the support 👍🏻
I like the explanations.
Me too
Then don't watch them if you don't like it. You are aware that there is a volume control on whichever device you are using ? FFS!
imust have missed a video. that is the craziest and biggest adjustable speed square i have ever seen....lol
It’s certainly a beast of a square and very well made 👍🏻