Bedankt voor de nauwkeurigheid en goed uitleg, ik ga het stap voor stap doen en goed je video erbij houden, heb altijd 2stroke gereden en nu 114h een 4stroke hopelijk ben ik nog niet te laat
@silk rider: Good vid & instructions. If the interface between the shim & valve spring is “wearing,” wouldn’t wear increase the clearance (loosen) instead of decrease (tighten)? I would assume less clearance (tight) is due to carbon build up, etc., but more clearance (loose) is due to wear.
Honestly it can go both ways. There are two contact patches, the valve shim and valve stem, and the valve seat and valve face. The valve shim/stem interface can wear because of the contact between the two, damaged or bent valve stems, and other stuff. The valve seat/face interface can expand because of carbon, or it can contract due to wear of the seat or face (or maybe both can happen at the same time). End of the day the only way to find out is to open it up and measure!
Hi, great video! I'm curious what brand of feeler gauges you have that have the 0.11, 0.12, 0.14, 0.16, 0.17 sizes. Most 32 blade sets skip a few sizes starting after 0.10mm :( Since those are the critical sizes needed in our case, stacking blades to get the "odd" sizes is far from ideal. Appreciate the info!
Hi! Stacking feelers is exactly what we do. This is a precision instrument, and the feelers are meant to be mixed and matched to get the size you need. So I’m always using 2 feelers, preferably close by - so 0.9 and 0.7 for 0.16. The one I have has 0.15 and 0.10, then 0.01 increments down. Get them at any place selling tools.
@@jannisgotevas1071 could be 90 hours but honestly it’s not really a “failure” point where something breaks or noticeably fails. All that happens is your valves are opening less (or more) than needed, your power suffers, maybe the mixture becomes out of whack, and you carbon or foul up your combustion chamber and spark plug more and more. So it’s just a general tuning item. If it’s something you’re willing to do, then make it a regular thing because it keeps your engine performing at its peak. If you don’t wanna bother with it and just wanna ride without too much hassle, check them every 60 hours or so. It all depends on how much time you have and are willing to put in.
This may be the valve guides, not the valve chain. Is there some smoke coming out of the exhaust when reving the engine? When the valve guides wear out, the valve stems start to slap against them as the valves move up and down, and oil gets past the valve stem seals and into the combustion chamber. I don't have a video for changing the valve guides as it requires some specialized tools so it would be best to take off the cylinder head and give it to a machinist.
Bedankt voor de nauwkeurigheid en goed uitleg, ik ga het stap voor stap doen en goed je video erbij houden, heb altijd 2stroke gereden en nu 114h een 4stroke hopelijk ben ik nog niet te laat
Thank you for this very useful and detailed video. We were neigbours at the Hellas Rally bivouac last year, I hope to see you there again this year!
Thanks, yep will see you soon then! Wish I could make more useful vids this year but shits just way too complicated these days!
Great video!
@silk rider: Good vid & instructions. If the interface between the shim & valve spring is “wearing,” wouldn’t wear increase the clearance (loosen) instead of decrease (tighten)? I would assume less clearance (tight) is due to carbon build up, etc., but more clearance (loose) is due to wear.
Honestly it can go both ways. There are two contact patches, the valve shim and valve stem, and the valve seat and valve face. The valve shim/stem interface can wear because of the contact between the two, damaged or bent valve stems, and other stuff. The valve seat/face interface can expand because of carbon, or it can contract due to wear of the seat or face (or maybe both can happen at the same time). End of the day the only way to find out is to open it up and measure!
Hi, great video! I'm curious what brand of feeler gauges you have that have the 0.11, 0.12, 0.14, 0.16, 0.17 sizes. Most 32 blade sets skip a few sizes starting after 0.10mm :(
Since those are the critical sizes needed in our case, stacking blades to get the "odd" sizes is far from ideal. Appreciate the info!
Hi! Stacking feelers is exactly what we do. This is a precision instrument, and the feelers are meant to be mixed and matched to get the size you need. So I’m always using 2 feelers, preferably close by - so 0.9 and 0.7 for 0.16. The one I have has 0.15 and 0.10, then 0.01 increments down. Get them at any place selling tools.
Thank You
Great! Thank you
очень познавательно. Спасибо.
Great video, how many hours when u did the valve check??
Hey thanks, I can’t remember but I do it every 30 hours. If you’re just trail riding you can skip one every so often.
@@SilkRider all right, and how long can you drive without a adjustment in your experience?
@@jannisgotevas1071 could be 90 hours but honestly it’s not really a “failure” point where something breaks or noticeably fails. All that happens is your valves are opening less (or more) than needed, your power suffers, maybe the mixture becomes out of whack, and you carbon or foul up your combustion chamber and spark plug more and more. So it’s just a general tuning item. If it’s something you’re willing to do, then make it a regular thing because it keeps your engine performing at its peak. If you don’t wanna bother with it and just wanna ride without too much hassle, check them every 60 hours or so. It all depends on how much time you have and are willing to put in.
Dus al ik bijde 15 er tussen kan krijgen zoals in als uitlaat dan moet het nog ff mee kunnen gaan, heb er nu 114h mee gereden
Best thing to do is to check it, you only have to take off the fuel tank and 3 bolts from the valve cover.
Nog ff een vraag over de ketting, hoeveel uur gaat die mee, het is net of ik die ook wel hoor ratelen bij laag toerental
This may be the valve guides, not the valve chain. Is there some smoke coming out of the exhaust when reving the engine? When the valve guides wear out, the valve stems start to slap against them as the valves move up and down, and oil gets past the valve stem seals and into the combustion chamber. I don't have a video for changing the valve guides as it requires some specialized tools so it would be best to take off the cylinder head and give it to a machinist.
Cheers,
where is ur rade garage rally ?
I’m doing the national enduro series here so the rally kit is off waiting for any rallies that won’t be cancelled this year.