How to Check & Adjust 2021 KTM 500 EXC-F Shim Valves | 130 Hour 4 Stroke Dirt Bike Maintenance
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- Опубликовано: 12 май 2022
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In this video we show you how to check and, if needed, adjust the shim type valves of the 2021 and similar year 4 stroke KTMs. Our project bike is a 500 EXC-F, but this process will be really similar on most four strokes of any year, and almost exactly the same on any later model KTM four stroke. 2 strokes do not have this kind of valve so this is not for them.
To really get a sense for what happens with dirt bike valves that are out of spec, we didn't change or check these valves at all for the first 130 hours on the bike. It seems KTM has done a great job making these bikes tough, because the valves where barely out of spec, and no damage was done to the bike whatsoever. In fact, it ran fine. We only decided to break down and do this maintenance work because we wanted to make this how to video.
Video editing by Nikola Popovic:
/ goteki_audio_video
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Little tip, wrap your wiring loom with cling film before taking the valve cover off. Stops all the dirt/dust dropping into the engine👌
Good call. I usually wash the bike, but this is a good idea.
Or a Blast with the Air Compressor does the job! 👍
Noticed that too
you know why you check your clearance at tdc compression stroke, because that's the point at which the valves need to be fully closed and that is where the valves have the most clearance. just checking the rocker is loose is not good enough as the valves ramp open and ramp closed so obviously there's two points on the cam profile where there is a gap but it's not the full gap. by taking 30 seconds to put the bike on tdc compression you'll get a guaranteed accurate consistent measurement.
The valve springs close the valves. At low RPM, like when you're hand turning the engine over slowly, there's a decompression mechanism that relieves pressure to make the engine easier to start. So there is no substantive additional pressure to be gained at TDC. Additionally, engines don't hold pressure, it quickly leaks down past the rings.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes it has nothing to do with compression it has to do with the relief ground into the back side of the cam ie the distance between the cam and the roller that gives you your valve clearance. the valves are shut long before the piston reaches tdc but the clearance is measured at tdc not some random degree before or after which might be ok or it might be a partial gap. do it once do it properly.
I always check that the valve lifter is free. On this bike, you can spin the roller on the rocker arm. If it turns freely, that's a point where there's no contact with the valve lobe and no chance of a wrong reading.
But, everyone should def do what they're most comfortable with.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes read what i wrote again, keep reading it until it makes sense.
I'm going with what the engineers recommended in the manual. First oil change, i figured i could recognize a drain plug, wrong...that is a pressure relief check valve spring and ball. Reading the manual from then on. Great video on the process!
The valve spec is actually printed on the top of the frame.. and there is a dot on cam gear that is aligned at the top to be at top dead center…… it doesn’t get any simpler than that.
As time goes, the valve clearance gets les and less (valves naturally sink into the valve seat) so I always put the thinest shim that will bring me within spec.(widest gap acceptable) This way it takes longer for the gap to close beyond specs. If you went too long, the engine gets hard to start when hot as the valve expand and no longer close properly. Great video.
Very great advice!! Never thought about it but makes perfect sense
useful. I would have thought the gap would tend to increase rather than decrease…
Love the opening description. I bought mine with 110hrs and now 240 and I as well haven't done jack shit. 2 tires and 1 chain and sprocket set. I thrash this bike to the max and its now 7yrs old and I'm getting ready to do this and so I found your video. Nothing wrong with it, just need to get the preventives done....
Glad I’m not the only one 😍
I’ve owned 3 generations of this bike. Only adjusted valves on a 525RFS at 2800 miles; it was nominal. My current 2021 500 XCFW has 4000 miles and 140 hours. Just checked clearances; no adjustments or shims necessary. Maintenance is a breeze.
Thanks for demystifying that job! I wouldn’t hesitate to try that myself now. Great vids and presentation style. Cheers.
Glad to help
2016 KTM 500 EXC 6 DAYS LOVE MY BIKE ,GOOD INVO .THANKS .
Thanks that was realy slick and easier than my bmw 1250 ,they thought it through .PS.its a digital vernier caliper. Great job .
Hey there, I just want to complement you for this video, its very helping, Way to go.
Glad to help, thanks for the feedback
Do you also not clean the air filter?
Based on not spending 15 seconds to turn the tire to get the engine to TDC i was shocked when you didnt torque anything to spec. With that said i still appreciate the video. It was nice seeing how to adjust the valves! Tons of videos on checking them but not many on actually adjusting.
Great video. Thank you.
I have two 500s one is a 2020 and a 2023.
Question is how long before a piston change?
Both my bikes are sand bikes in summer and snowbikes in winter. Pulling hard at semi hi revs. What's your thoughts on hrs?
I have 165 hours on my kx450f was running fine but now I need to adjust my valves they are out of spec
My 2021 500 also pops a little at just off idle. I added some fuel with the GET phone app and that helped a little.
Good to know
coming up on 100hrs on my husky 500. only changed the oil and filter
That was a fun watch dude. Don't even have a 500 to wrench on. It's wild how different the top end is on the 500 compared to the 350.
I'm pretty sure they're really similar.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes They aren't. They are very different. I'm very familiar with the 350's at this point. I did the opposite experiment as you, I checked them every 15 hours just to see that they haven't moved after 275 hours. Hahahaha!
Really? That's interesting, I wonder why they changed it up. Good to know.
Looks real clean (6:27). Yes, a bit of sarcasm.
I have two of these bikes with over 400 hours combined - they're pretty bulletproof in my experience and really really easy to work on. Some small hand tools and you can take most of the bike apart.
I think people obsess on the oil change intervals and valve checks - anecdotally, the valves don't move much, but they may not come in-spec even from the factory. So I think that first check early on might be important.
And I've run oil 45 hours dual sporting with a stainless steel scotts filter - oil analysis showed the oil was in good shape, so folks doing 10 hour oil changes are usually doing way overkill.
Agreed, people often turn maintenance into a mythological experience because they don't really understand how it all works.
After doing the NVBDR, my starter switch has a delay in starting the bike. Did yours have a delay for a second before starting due to the dust? Did you ever fix it? Just a new switch? Thanks
Ya it would delay and sometimes start but it just got worse to the point where it wouldn’t start at all. Replacing the switch fixed it.
When u change piston?
I’d love to see you do the 350. Nice video. Thanks
Hopefully we can add one to our stable one of these days.
It's exactly the same...
My 2019 501 has 600 hours and the valves are still in specs.
I love your energy
I just did the first top end on my 2012 KTM 500 exe. I had 660 hours and everything looked great. I had millennium recoat the cylinder even though it didn't really need it and I slapped a new piston in there even though it didn't need that either. I put 20,000 miles on it and the bike still rips.
Love your tutorial, a valve that is too tight would have to be awfully tight to cause piston to valve contact. But hey, it could happen. Thanks for putting together your informative video
Thanks! and I agree, never seen it happen yet.
my sxf 450 has never failed - it is a 2013 and gets a brutal life in UK mud and sand - i had a fuse blow recently, it cost 10pence - the amount of BS i read from people on forums giving advice was unreal before i actually found my issue - when i reported back the 10pence fix the haters disappeared....i should add my 450 has had oil at 25-30-35 hour intervals....
buying a 500 exc this week - cant wait
Yeah, Internet is full of haters who don’t know anything 😝
my 500 exc has now done 6k miles with me, what a bike, what a bike @@ExtremeSportsWannaBes
you do know that al the extra time/work hours lost of getting TDC is as complex as clicking the bike into high gear and turning the rear wheel right ? about as much time as it took me to type this.
Thanks for the video and showing that the recommended maintenance is more for racing conditions and extreme/trashing of the bike.
This is one of many great videos by you guys, and I'm also a big fan of busting out parts on a 3D printer for everything.
However, I have a very mundane question, which is certainly not worth you while replying to, but I'll ask anyway.
You mention you're using feeler gauges with thin end, and a thicker base to measure the range.
I've spent days searching on Amazon and all through the usual suspects on ThumperTalk and ADV etc, and I cannot of the life of me find out where to get a set.
Tapered gauged just get me ones with a tapered shape, NOT a tapered thickness.
Where do you get these magical gauges from?
Cheers.
I’ve had 3 ‘big bore’ Kato dirtbikes now: 2 x Aussie 500 exc (2015, 2020 - Aussie versions aren’t corked up like USA) and 450 SXF (2018).
I’ve given up with regular valve gap checks as they don’t move.
Super reliable bikes.
The old ‘hur hur KTM means ’ hasn’t been relevant for well over a decade.
They just Keep Tech Moving - it’s only KTM that’s driven dirt bike development over the last decade. The Japanese brands only do the bare minimum and basically slowly introduce things that KTM did ages ago and call them ‘new’.
The only own goal by KTM has been forks: they keep trying new ideas but they’re not always better.
I only run ktm oem shims, but only one shim will fit in the spec, and ktm has no 2.1 shim. so yours likey 2.0, the next shim up is a 2.4mm . The oem shims are in .4mm increments, chinese hot cams are .5mm increments.
Regardless of what set you run, you'll have to compromise a bit on the size at times.
I just bought a 2022 on Tuesday!
Badass!
I have a '21, you're gonna love it.
Yup, amazing bikes!
I just bought a 23 yesterday so just watched this video proactively. I have never done valves before. how hard is it placing the shims, since you hadnt filmed that part? From the video it looked like that would be the step that you could potentially drop something in the engine. Also how regularly would you reccomend checking them?
It's not hard at all to place the shims. You could drop them into the engine by the cam chain, stuff a rag in to prevent this.
The valves should be checked periodically. The manual should have a recommendation, I don't remember off hand the hours interval
How many hours u do your oil change?
15-20
They probably haven't moved from factory. Valve clearances usually tighten under heavy use. and that's what causes real issues.
I found mine were slightly loose.
Would a 500 set up for street supermoto that never touches the dirt and is ridden mostly mild need valve shims more or less often than a bike that does nothing but dirt riding ridden a bit harder ? Or is every motor just different and it doesn't matter ?
Thanks for this video. I've mostly ridden/raced 2 strokes for decades and only ever adjusted the valves on old Hondas that don't have shims. My 22 501 is going to need this done very soon. You have taken away my fear of 4 stroke shims ! You got another sub... thanks ! 😆👍
Glad to help someone get into wrenching one their valves!
I don't think the terrain is what really matters for valve check intervals. It's how hard you work the motor. Which is mostly going to mean how high you typically rev it. One of the nice things about the 500 motors is that they're relatively low RPM engines. Not like some off the street bikes I've run with 14k redlines.
In other words, these are pretty low stress engines in my opinion.
Shim type valves are also highly durable. But there's a limit where the valve lifter will eventually wear through the shim coating and you might see accelerated wear. It doesn't hurt to check them somewhat regularly. You probably won't have to make adjustments very often.
Just get a cush drive hub for your rear wheel. The 500s have a cush clutch basket (with some rubber inserts in there) but for the street and supermoto use you’ll need a cush drive hub to avoid gear and engine stress.
@@C_R_O_M________ Yep.. already did that... I got a set of Haan hubs with a cush drive😀👍
@@scottyd2262 wow! you went for the Rolls Royce of hubs already…good for you. Alternatively you can fit a 640 LC4 rear wheel hub (used ones are reasonably priced), some people have done that.
@@C_R_O_M________ Basically l got tricked into buying the expensive hubs. I was told that if l got the Haan hubs that my wheels would be built in 3weeks instead of 3months if l ordered a set of Talon hubs. In the end l waited 4months for my wheels to be built.. It was just a way for them to make more $$. They are the distributor here in Australia and have a reputation for being dodgy like that. Their name is John Titman Racing.. Although they have changed owners since then, they are still terrible to do business with (as l have also found out) unfortunately if you want certain brands you have to go through them...
A set of Talons would have done for what l needed..
200 hrs so far in my 2023 500 exc-f, no valve problems yet
Awesome!
Did the popping disappear?
Nope, turned out not to be related. Pretty sure it's just the fueling of the ECU
Maybe air leak in exhaust system
The exhaust system is expelling air. So a leak would create a loud sound as unmuffled exhaust gas escaped. That's very different from a back fire.
I just hit 500 hours maybe I’ll have a peek!!! 😊
You should put it on TDC with Valves Closed or you could get an Incorrect Reading if the Cam Follower or Rocker is Riding on the Cam Lobe! Well that's how I've been Taught! You Might get Lucky by Skipping this Step but it Could Backfire on you Literally!😁
For sure. I explain in the video how to check that the cam lobe isn’t contacting the valve without going through the effort of TDC.
care to share torque specs?
I haven’t dyno tested it
Dude just take 30 seconds to find top dead center …. It’s not hard. It turns your 45 minute job into a 45:30 minute job.
Awesome video! I was contemplating getting a KTM 500 to replace my WR250R but I’ve got several gripes with KTM. Firstly, I just hate orange. Secondly, they are high maintenance and parts just cost more and are more difficult to find that for my Yamahas.
My valves gotta be checked at 27,000 miles. Every 500 miles is wild to me. But obviously you get crazy performance with the KTM.
This is the roughest valve check I have every seen 🤣 .... is this a how to do your valve clearance if you break down in the bush to get yourself home.
Throw a hand full of dirt in before you put the cam cover back on for good measure 👌
Everyone will have their own preference around maintenance, which is exactly our point. There’s more than one way.
😂
Guys go to another channel for a "how to" this is horrible advice
170 hours only just checked valves ther spot on ..oil change every 25hours clea air filter once a month it still cracks no dramas
Perfect
9:45:00
Digital caliper… not feeler gauge
First.
Eh?
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes I don't know, guess it's a thing kids say when they're the first to comment. Seen it on my videos, tried it here, immediately regret it. Haha!
@@BrokenEnduro that's awesome. Learn a new thing everyday 😅
They stole the patent with rockerarm and adjustment from Husaberg 400 to 650 4T
And then delited all stock parts and mashinery hwen they bye Husaberg🤦♂️
Thanks for your tips on this one. The heavy profanity sounds like you are having bad time. I hit record when I'm more composed... just a thought. Peace.
“Okay my feeler gauge is on, let me zero it”
They’re vernier calipers for a start.
Also, telling uneducated blokes with very little mechanical understanding that it’s unimportant to have the bike set to TDC whilst checking valve clearances is ridiculous.
Explain why it matters?
Dang… what’s the deal with folks with a go pro thinking they are a content creator… the tacomoto sticker should have warned me.. video cringe worthy… TDS is so easy to set.. pull the plug, shift to high gear and roll rear wheel.
If you drop somthing you don’t have to split
Cases.. 🤦♂️ wow… like even the zip Ty on the cam…. You don’t even have to pull tensioner to do valves
what a nonsens, abused KTM? LOL mine has 600 hours and engine never ben opened, still runs strong!
Keep
Throwing
Money
500s are very reliable.
Yes at approx 60-70,000 km of round the world riding you will probably require a top end rebuild, as did Kiwi Aaron
Steinmann. RtwPaul is finding the same issue as well……so much for supposed unreliability.