I did mine like a month or two ago. I also used the Monroe brand: the Gas-Matic Passenger Car Shock Absorber from advanced auto part. Very cheap, about $60 a pair, and they came in a rubber duck yellow color. Luckily they are hiding behind the wheel and no one can see them lol. I would say there is less body roll when turning the corners, and the ride felt a bit harsher. The old one is pretty much leaking out. I can easily press it down. One of them is so bad that I took forever for it to come back out. Lol. Thank you for this video.
If you buy the Monroe OEspectrum for a 7gen Maxima, do not tighten the 18mm bolt to OEM Torque spec (98 ftlbs) you will strip the nut. Experience talking. The OEM nut on the Nissan shock is more stout when compared to the Monroe so it can handle 98.
I had to hire a local machinist to drive over and extract a broken LCA bolt that snapped and stuck in the strut. I watched him drill through the entire bolt and broke it into piece by piece. It’s better to get the pros to do it to avoid any injury. A strut assembly with the spring attached holds a lot of pressure and any accidents can lead to broken bones or death if that thing shoots out wrong. That person you hired needs to get someone or fix the mistake done by themself.
@@g-jitsu1771sorry for the late reply. I have no idea what the name is but it’s there to keep the seat assembly from going downwards onto the gas pressure chamber. I’d call it a shock thrust washer.
There’s no reason to change them out unless they’re bent from accidents or the bushings are bad. I can understand the rear being a hassle because the spring is compressed onto the LCA. The front is just a matter of jiggling it out of its socket. These days, I leave the major engine and transmission work to the pros. Anything that has to do with precise timing or require specific tools to avoid potential injury, it’s out of my league. Minor jobs I can do but if I have to use a compression clamp, like a front strut replacement with keeping the OEM hardware.
I've got no complaints so far. They are an exact replacement of the OEM struts. The car is just like it was new. It feels the same. Don't expect any miracles or significant improvements over a new OEM one. I'll update when they do wear out.
I want to upgrade my suspension to where I don’t feel any sway, dips, potholes, turns. What would you recommend I upgrade? I’d like to upgrade everything. Any brands you recommend?
@@omnionly1cabron263 sorry for the late reply. If you're just interested in reducing felt bumps, the stock suspension is best. It is engineered for street and everyday comfort. I always recommend people seek a professional opinion before committing to any work done on their car. Get a quote on how much they'll charge in case things go FUBAR. Mechanical work can go bad if done incorrectly. If you want to upgrade to something more aggressive, feel and hear EVERY bump on the road and stiffer ride, go with a fully adjustable, coilover suspension. That way, you can make height, spring tension, and ride height adjustments to fit your personal tastes. You'll need polyurethane or solid derling bushings to reduce or minimize body roll. I went the extra mile on my Celica and got a full energy suspension bushings on the control arms and sway bars. These make a significant difference to steering response BUT at the cost of comfort to the ride quality. Installing these were a nightmare on the control arms because I needed a lathe to machine a precise cup to allow me to press the bushings out without it bottoming out and sending the press bit flying in all directions (very dangerous and get a professional to do this job). Last but not least, buy some quality tires to suit your needs. I have a set of Michelin Premier AS as a daily driver. On spirited weeks, I'll change them out for some RE71R (separate set of rims). Know that if you do go aftermarket suspension, you'll run into some camber and alignment issues. You'll need a camber kit (I didn't need one since I didn't lower mine too low). Most shops charge you a LOT to properly align your toes and cambers. If you failed to properly do the camber and alignment, you can kiss your brand new tires goodbye after a month or two (they wear excessively fast). That just about sums it up for basic suspension upgrades. There are more fine tuning but I'm going to recommend you seek a professional before committing to any modifications or mechanical work.
Zeron 18 just like you said stock rides the best, what i found that improves rides quality when riding on rough road is tire size makes the most difference, smallest rim with big tire is the best comfortable ride, low profile tire rides rough no matter what tire brand you get. My nissan drives like a dream with 16, i have 3 nissan Altima where i can swap rims around to test em i have a set of 16,17,18, and i just recently purchase a 19 rim from a 2020 nissan altima, with 19 i feel like theres no tire on rim you feel every imperfection on the road
@@alexteixeira27 I'm on 215\45\17. My stock tires are 205\50\16. Yes, bigger tire profile gives a more comfortable ride. However, cheap, low-quality tires of a higher profile are a terrible comfort. I went from Continental extreme contact dws06 to a set of Michelin Premier A\S and the ride is significantly smoother and quieter. Tire profile is subjective to the user specially. Higher profile creates more sidewall flex on cornering but better road absorption. Lower profile perform better on cornering but have a harder time absorbing bumps. However, different compounds and performance category of tires are also a factor in comfort-to-performance ratio.
HEY ZERON I SEE YOU MIGHT HAVE SOME JACKS FROM HORBOUR FRIGHT THERE IS SOME RECALLS ON THEM SO TAKE THEM BACK AND GET SOME AC DELCO FROM O RILEY'S AND SAVE YOUR LIFE.
You're right! I haven't used them in a very long time (almost a year ago). I'll have to check with harbor freight to see if I can get a refund or something. If not, I'll just give them back so no other folks can take them and\or use them.
You’re absolutely right! I’ve been so used to calling them struts because all of the cars I used to work on were older and used a strut assembly (McPherson/wishbone or double wishbone system) throughout the car. This rear system is the first of its kind, with the shocks being independent, for me.
I did mine like a month or two ago. I also used the Monroe brand: the Gas-Matic Passenger Car Shock Absorber from advanced auto part. Very cheap, about $60 a pair, and they came in a rubber duck yellow color. Luckily they are hiding behind the wheel and no one can see them lol.
I would say there is less body roll when turning the corners, and the ride felt a bit harsher.
The old one is pretty much leaking out. I can easily press it down. One of them is so bad that I took forever for it to come back out. Lol.
Thank you for this video.
For those watching, if you are from the rust belt these videos are way harder
If you buy the Monroe OEspectrum for a 7gen Maxima, do not tighten the 18mm bolt to OEM Torque spec (98 ftlbs) you will strip the nut. Experience talking. The OEM nut on the Nissan shock is more stout when compared to the Monroe so it can handle 98.
It's called a shock absorber. A strut has a welded perch for the spring to sit on among other things.
So i hired someone to do my shocks and the bolt snaped inside the bottom bushing, recommendations?
I had to hire a local machinist to drive over and extract a broken LCA bolt that snapped and stuck in the strut. I watched him drill through the entire bolt and broke it into piece by piece.
It’s better to get the pros to do it to avoid any injury.
A strut assembly with the spring attached holds a lot of pressure and any accidents can lead to broken bones or death if that thing shoots out wrong. That person you hired needs to get someone or fix the mistake done by themself.
What’s that metal piece called ?
Which metal piece? The swing arm for the rear suspension assembly?
@@Zeron18 the metal part that goes in after u put the rubber
@@g-jitsu1771sorry for the late reply. I have no idea what the name is but it’s there to keep the seat assembly from going downwards onto the gas pressure chamber.
I’d call it a shock thrust washer.
"this suspension is so easy to work with".... control arm replacement flashbacks.....
There’s no reason to change them out unless they’re bent from accidents or the bushings are bad. I can understand the rear being a hassle because the spring is compressed onto the LCA. The front is just a matter of jiggling it out of its socket.
These days, I leave the major engine and transmission work to the pros. Anything that has to do with precise timing or require specific tools to avoid potential injury, it’s out of my league. Minor jobs I can do but if I have to use a compression clamp, like a front strut replacement with keeping the OEM hardware.
How is it holding up?
I've got no complaints so far. They are an exact replacement of the OEM struts. The car is just like it was new. It feels the same. Don't expect any miracles or significant improvements over a new OEM one.
I'll update when they do wear out.
I want to upgrade my suspension to where I don’t feel any sway, dips, potholes, turns. What would you recommend I upgrade? I’d like to upgrade everything. Any brands you recommend?
@@omnionly1cabron263 sorry for the late reply. If you're just interested in reducing felt bumps, the stock suspension is best. It is engineered for street and everyday comfort.
I always recommend people seek a professional opinion before committing to any work done on their car. Get a quote on how much they'll charge in case things go FUBAR. Mechanical work can go bad if done incorrectly.
If you want to upgrade to something more aggressive, feel and hear EVERY bump on the road and stiffer ride, go with a fully adjustable, coilover suspension. That way, you can make height, spring tension, and ride height adjustments to fit your personal tastes. You'll need polyurethane or solid derling bushings to reduce or minimize body roll.
I went the extra mile on my Celica and got a full energy suspension bushings on the control arms and sway bars. These make a significant difference to steering response BUT at the cost of comfort to the ride quality. Installing these were a nightmare on the control arms because I needed a lathe to machine a precise cup to allow me to press the bushings out without it bottoming out and sending the press bit flying in all directions (very dangerous and get a professional to do this job).
Last but not least, buy some quality tires to suit your needs. I have a set of Michelin Premier AS as a daily driver. On spirited weeks, I'll change them out for some RE71R (separate set of rims).
Know that if you do go aftermarket suspension, you'll run into some camber and alignment issues. You'll need a camber kit (I didn't need one since I didn't lower mine too low). Most shops charge you a LOT to properly align your toes and cambers. If you failed to properly do the camber and alignment, you can kiss your brand new tires goodbye after a month or two (they wear excessively fast).
That just about sums it up for basic suspension upgrades. There are more fine tuning but I'm going to recommend you seek a professional before committing to any modifications or mechanical work.
Zeron 18 just like you said stock rides the best, what i found that improves rides quality when riding on rough road is tire size makes the most difference, smallest rim with big tire is the best comfortable ride, low profile tire rides rough no matter what tire brand you get. My nissan drives like a dream with 16, i have 3 nissan Altima where i can swap rims around to test em i have a set of 16,17,18, and i just recently purchase a 19 rim from a 2020 nissan altima, with 19 i feel like theres no tire on rim you feel every imperfection on the road
@@alexteixeira27 I'm on 215\45\17. My stock tires are 205\50\16. Yes, bigger tire profile gives a more comfortable ride. However, cheap, low-quality tires of a higher profile are a terrible comfort.
I went from Continental extreme contact dws06 to a set of Michelin Premier A\S and the ride is significantly smoother and quieter.
Tire profile is subjective to the user specially. Higher profile creates more sidewall flex on cornering but better road absorption. Lower profile perform better on cornering but have a harder time absorbing bumps. However, different compounds and performance category of tires are also a factor in comfort-to-performance ratio.
HEY ZERON I SEE YOU MIGHT HAVE SOME JACKS FROM HORBOUR FRIGHT THERE IS SOME RECALLS ON THEM SO TAKE THEM BACK AND GET SOME AC DELCO FROM O RILEY'S AND SAVE YOUR LIFE.
You're right! I haven't used them in a very long time (almost a year ago). I'll have to check with harbor freight to see if I can get a refund or something. If not, I'll just give them back so no other folks can take them and\or use them.
AND a better set of Jack stands aren't that much more. Only a small price to pay to keep me alive. I'll update you on it when I do get a better set.
Good jop
Those are shocks, not struts.
You’re absolutely right! I’ve been so used to calling them struts because all of the cars I used to work on were older and used a strut assembly (McPherson/wishbone or double wishbone system) throughout the car. This rear system is the first of its kind, with the shocks being independent, for me.
Good video except for u wearing flip flops when working on ure car. SAFETY FIRST