It's not as scary as you think, there is a lot of power but it's very smooth with a "wide" power band. I started on 1984 v45 750 Magna as my first bike with my only prior experience on bikes being 2 days at the M2 course on a 250 cruiser. I've had the bike for 3 years now, accident free. Very fun bike!
I've a Magna '94, 30 years on this month, rejected, without dB killers and guys it's the missile of customs. I fell in love since I saw that model for the first time in 1995, I was 14.
If you mind sharing, what are your jet sizes, and what did you do on the intake and exhuast side? Got a magna too, but doesn't pull crazy like your does!
Have an '83 and yeah sure, not the fastest bike by far, but that pass at ~ 2:30 demonstrates why I love it so much.. that 40-70 and/or 60-90 pull is so good! All the torque of a V motor but it's also a 4 cylinder Honda that revs to 10k..
Youre a real rider man. Nice clip...........even watching it is exciting and I feel it at the curves. You ride it just like a sport bike. Its a lovely bike indeed. God bless you!
@Cypern 90-100HP (dynojet) , according to rpm cca 210Km/h .... tachometer shows less. It would ride faster but my Handlebars are too wide. (118cm) and I have special pegs.
Thought I'd throw some numbers out too. so to hit 90 rwhp we need a 20% improvement. Cams that peak at 9,500 rpm's are a 12% increase in rpm's so a 12% improvement in output, maybe more since the volumetric efficiency is probably rolling off well below 8500 rpm's now and could be improved. a good port and polish will net 3 to 5% and I'm sure the intake, exhaust and tuning will net another 5% so 90 rwhp is pretty reasonable. Cams alone could put you at 85rwhp or a 12% improvement.
That's a sportbike engine (VFR 750) in the bike. It makes its peak power at 8500-9000 rpm. It likes being shifted there and these engines are pretty fucking bullet proof.
RPM's don't kill gasoline engines. They're made to rev. Unless the engine is over-revved to the point of exploding or the oiling system is inadequate to maintain high rpm operation, it won't do any damage. These motors are made to rev.
Nice run there. I have an 82. You know you can learn to up-shift it without the clutch without hurting anything. In fact when you get the feel and timing it's easier on up-shifts than using the clutch while accelerating. Especially easier on things that pulling the clutch in and shifting with the throttle open, over-reving the engine like you did at 0:53 and again at 1:17. Under power, put upward pressure on the shift lever before shifting and just turn the throttle off and back on as fast as you can. It will shift. In fact the faster you are with the throttle the easier on the gearbox it is. You can make it nearly seamless. I learning it drag racing starting with my 70 Kawasaki Mach III and my 72 Mach IV. I learned it from national record holding stock class riders. I have never busted a gear. downshifting or any shifting where you're not right back to the throttle is a different story. You do not want to be 500 RPMs over on these. There's no advantage and you can hurt it. The power curve flattens at redline, there's nothing more to get.
I think it's worth just clutching to play it safe and not worry about missing and ruining a gear. I've heard lots of people ruin gears shifting like this and I completely understand if you don't miss it's fine but a lot of people miss, lol.
they are fully synchronized transmissions there is not missing a grear. There are a couple of false neutrals but it you hit one just pull the clutch in and let the revs come down and finish the shift. It only happens when you cat careless about enough pressure with you toe and only happens if you're wide open or at least accelerating hard. Tell me you've never got careless with the clutch an missed you timeing a crunched a shift. In city traffic I can make the up shifts sound like and automatic transmission. It is easier on the transmission and creates zero clutch wear. You say you know lots of guys that have messed up gears with no cluch shifting. How come I don't know any? I do know lots of guys that have worn out the clutch. Some idiots get all macho about the term powershifting. That's where you leave the throttle open and use the clutch to shift it. 2 problems there. If you're at or near redline and pull the clutch in you over-rev the engine. I drive my bike and my car hard but I NEVER over-rev an engine unless by mistake. Often the damage from over-reving doesn't show up that day. You just end up days or weeks later wondering where that knock came from. Plus there is the tremant amount of clutch wear. The clutch ends up pulling the over-reved enging down to transmission speed. Exceeding red line is the worse thing you can do to an engine. Have you tried it. Try it in city driving. I do recommend using the clutch in casual riding shifting first to second as that's the widest gear change but form there use you normal sift points and put a modest amount toe pressure on the shifter and blip the throttle. I'm amazed at how smooth it can be. Just a click. The only real danger is in running full throttle. Then you make one two with no clutch to and the rest. Running wide open or close to it you don't use modest pressure with the toe, you use hard upward force. If you don't you can find a false neutral and if you don't let the over-reved engine spin back down with the clutch in, it will crunch hard. Just because it's called a false neutral doesn't mean it's not neutral. When you go to neutral at a stop you go to first and use light pressure to hunt for the spot between 1st and 2nd where neutral is. Fortunatly there's a light to tell you when you there. If you go hunting for neutrals between other gears most bikes will find one or two. So, hitting a false neutral is neutral and the input side is not connected to the output side. You wouldn' dream of going from neutral into gear without the clutch. So if you're a no clutch rider and find a neutral between 4 and 5 running wide open, maybe in a race your instinct is after closing the throttle because you just over-revved it is to just jam in 5th and get back after it. It will object to going from neutral to 5th without the clutch smoothing out the difference between the input and out put sides of the transmission. Shifting from neutral into gear is a different process than shifting from gear go gear in synchronized transmissions. Stopped in neutral the input side of the transmission is spinning at engine speed and the output side is not turning. Pulling the clutch in lets the input side spin to a stop before you push it in gear. You probably know this if you've ever set the idle speed too high or have just a little clutch drag especially on hydraulic clutches and had trouble getting in first with no crunch. If you hit neutral on my old magna at 10000 rpms that's how fast the input side is spinning. You must disengage the engine from the input side, make the shift, then let the clutch smooth out the differences in speed and momentum between the 2 sides of the transmission. That is why even in city traffic just tooling around I always use rev matching blips on every downshift. When you do that right the clutch has very little to do. So to recap, only real danger to upshifing without the clutch is panicking if you hit a false neutral. And to be clear I'm not saying it's safe to downshift without the clutch. In a drag race you'll give up half a second using the clutch.
Carbon Crank rev matching nobody knows how to do that anymore. !!!!! I used to race the 1978 cow 900 an 1000. But the CR 250 2 Strokes. Hitting the doubles and triples under hard-ass throttle and flying through the air was much more fun for 13 or 14 years. !!! I'm getting ready to buy a beautiful purple and white VF 750 custom deluxe with the factory fairing and windscreen Vance & Hines exhaust Corbin seat. It looks like a show bike with 17,000 miles on it I can pick it up for $2,100. Just needs new tires and the carbs cleaned and probably jetted. !!!! It'll be for sale next year for 3950 dollars. !!!???!!!!
Thanks so much for the video. I am often asked why I own two bikes. One is a 93 GL1500 which is a great touring bike. It is awesome! The other a 99 Honda Magna V4 750, this video gives my explonation. AWESOME!
Oh man that was exciting.I just bought a 2001 nov.22. Problem. I live inOntario and it been sub 0 ever since. Solution.We're off to fla. Jan 2 and trailering The black Mag with us.
+PHJag In November bought the 97 Magna, 750 of course, 16k miles, and love it. I've only been up to 80mph on it but the bike pulls like a freight train none the less. Wicked acceleration and can withstand that red line. 50mph in 2nd gear lol
Mathew Nunley my starter went bad, and nobody on the internet seems to be selling a starter for a 94-03 Magna :( before that though, it was awesome, 0-60 faster then many modern sports cars.
***** The only real problem I've had so far with the bike is that it jerks noticeably in 1st gear. The really slow rpms bog down the bike, but as soon as I move into 2nd, everything is fine. No starter huh? No way? Surely you would be able to find a starter or at least troubleshoot it some how?
+PHJag Now I've been up to 110 on it :D I cannot wait for the weather to get nice and hopefully take it out to a track so I can avoid possibly getting a speeding ticket. :)
Oh, and it is a sport bike engine 'tuned for torque'. Honda stated this themselves back in 93. It's so close to a VFR750 Gen 4 engine that you can swap the two out and replace them with minimal work...as some Gen 3 Magna owners have done, seeing as the VFR750 engine is 100 rear wheel hp to the Magna's 76~ish. Another reason I was surprised the OP said it makes 90 - 100 on the dyno. Just hotter cams are NOT going take your dyno numbers from 76~ to 100. Not now. Not ever.
It's not a sport bike engine. It's tuned for a wide power band, not peak hp like a sport bike. The bike is light relative to most cruisers but still over 500lbs so not sport bike light. These make about 85 to 90 bhp (at the flywheel) from the factory. I'd assume cams and some tuning could produce at least 5 to 10 hp. You answer your own question since you point out that the bike makes peak power around 8500. If it were cammed for 9500 rpm's it would make more peak hp. $500 for cams = 100hp
I ride with a proud Magna rider (02 VF750C) the bike makes 75hp. (Damn spunky for a cruiser, helps that it's so light.) To get to 90hp or 100hp (which is it?) you have to dump a good $5000 in the bike. You've done this? I'd like you to tell me what work it is that gets done, because you're shifting like you have 75hp.
Horsepower is torque times RPM. Cams will make the engine breathe at higher rpm. That alone is 10+hp bump. 90 rwhp is not 5000 worth of work. That's 20% more than 76hp which you admit the bike will make. Since it's not performance tuned to start with, cams, intake, exhaust, maybe a port and polish, and a good tune, and you're looking at 90 hp easy but it'll be higher in the rev band. That's not $5000 worth of work. If you do it yourself, it's under $1000.
I'm buying a 96 purple and white V striped rare deluxe model with the factory. Faring windscreen. Vance & Hines exhaust and Corbin seat next week. !!! It only has 17,000 miles on it it needs new tires carbs cleaned and jetted. It looks like a show bike it'll be for sale next year for $3,950. !!! ????
You might want to post this revelation over at v4musclebike cuz EVERYONE over there posts what you can get out of this bike and for what cost. The 100+ of them over there would be quite surprised at 100hp for $500. Also powerband = the area between peak tq and peak hp. That's 7500(peak tq) to 9000 (peak hp). Not exactly 'wide'. And I never claimed it's sport bike light...because it isn't. At all. Not to the RR bikes anyways, and to hell with flywheel hp. Rear wheel hp is all that matters.
andeltom about to replace the chain and was thinking 15/40. u put 14/40, did u try 15/40 before 14/40? could u explain in what ways u think 'it is better'? thx man!
Dude, I don't own a Magna. My wingman does, I don't pretend to know all about engines, but I know what I've read on those forums. Why won't you got to those forums and tell the 40+ Gen 3 Magna owners there that they're doing it wrong in trying to get a Gen 3 Magna past 90hp at the rear wheel for under $1000. I really have no dog in this fight, and yes I was just saying what I've read, which I took for truth. Silly me believed a guy that owns a Gen 1, Gen 2 and 2 Gen 3 Magnas.
Honda should bring back magna with drive shaft duel front brakes 6 so with 105 hp and magna riders will buy it oh must be v4 engine no more than 10'000 dollars Honda will be a number one crusier amen ps I've owned 4magnas in my 50 yrs of riding
rwhp is just flywheel hp or bhp minus the frictional losses to the drive train. If the drive train is comparable bhp is just as valid as rwhp. Apples to apples as long as you compare rwhp to rwhp or bhp to bhp. The power band is anywhere that the engine makes a significant amount of torque so from the point where it hits say 80% of peak torque so basically the entire rev range. You don't seem to have any first hand knowledge about engines. You are just spitting out what other people said.
Back to your original post, you said 90 to 100 hp was impossible for less than $5000. No one said 100 rwhp. He also didn't say it was rwhp. You're own logic is flawed since you mention the 100rwhp vfr750 engine is almost identical. Even if you go to high compression pistons, it's still under $2000 unless you're an idiot who rides your bike into a dealer and has them do all the work for you. With pistons, cams, port and polish, intake, exhaust and tuning 100rwhp at 9,500 easy.
What year is that? I had a 1983 V45 Magna... and it was no dog, that's for sure. Fastest 1/4 mile in it's class... shaft drive (no chains or floppy belts), hydraulic clutch (no cable.. all hydraulic)... and it never gave me any grief. Never had to hit the redline either... Made me nervous seeing him way up in the red when he was only at 95mph or less.
Sure, he can do the same speed at lower rpm in a higher gear, but keeping the bike in a lower gear with the rpms high allows you to decelerate quickly by just rolling off the throttle, rather then moving your hands and feet to use the brakes. Keeps you from eating the car that pulls out in front of you, and allows you to pass him easily without downshifting. These 3rd generation magnas will do 130+ on a flat straightaway, but he ain't drag racing here.
...? The V65 stopped production in 1985 or 1986. And then you recommend a 650 Versys with less HP than the V45? You don't know shit about bikes, bro. 2/10 for getting me to respond.
This is a touring bike, not a race bike! Please do not overturn the engine. I stopped watching at 0:37, did not have nerves to see more. Take care of your self and the other trafficants.
This guy don't know how to ride but he knows how to keep the RPMs up to blow up an engine.. that bike are to be doing a hundred thirty miles per hour at 8000 RPMs. ????
This guy is a novice bike rider. He is way over-reving that bike. He's keeping it at or above redline most of the time. His power peak is below that by a couple of hundred RPM.s
![[Докатились] Тест драйв Honda Magna. Стальной пукан.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RYzp8EjD3n0/mqdefault.jpg)
I get so overwhelmed watching these videos. I want a magna so bad.
Love mine soo fun n fast!
It’s been 6 years, did you get your magna?
I just picked up a 3rd gen (1996) vf750c and I'm in love, this thing tears ass!
Watching your video gave me goosebumps.
I just recently bought a 1982 Magna as my first big bike. You have good riding skills that I can learn from!
I just got a 97 magna ,,this vid is 8years old,,and this vid is pure adrenaline!!!
It's not as scary as you think, there is a lot of power but it's very smooth with a "wide" power band. I started on 1984 v45 750 Magna as my first bike with my only prior experience on bikes being 2 days at the M2 course on a 250 cruiser. I've had the bike for 3 years now, accident free. Very fun bike!
I've been babying my magna, it had 72,000 miles when I bought it, so I haven't pushed it past 7k rpm. Sounds great at 9 though.
Damn that's some miles loo
@@brandonpurple8938 It's got another 72K in er
I've a Magna '94, 30 years on this month, rejected, without dB killers and guys it's the missile of customs. I fell in love since I saw that model for the first time in 1995, I was 14.
I have an 02 Honda Magna, converting to a bobber. It's amazing machine.
Tenho uma em preto,muito bonita e um bom motor anda muito bem
Wow wow its somesting that makes your heart beats faster, cant stop lesten to the sound of 9 rpm love it
If you mind sharing, what are your jet sizes, and what did you do on the intake and exhuast side?
Got a magna too, but doesn't pull crazy like your does!
Have an '83 and yeah sure, not the fastest bike by far, but that pass at ~ 2:30 demonstrates why I love it so much.. that 40-70 and/or 60-90 pull is so good! All the torque of a V motor but it's also a 4 cylinder Honda that revs to 10k..
Youre a real rider man. Nice clip...........even watching it is exciting and I feel it at the curves. You ride it just like a sport bike. Its a lovely bike indeed. God bless you!
I was wondering why your redline starts at 10. My 94 doesn't actually redline till 11.
I can't believe that is a cruiser bike, nice video man
@Cypern 90-100HP (dynojet) , according to rpm cca 210Km/h .... tachometer shows less.
It would ride faster but my Handlebars are too wide. (118cm) and I have special pegs.
By the looks someone has changed your sprockets. I have the factory set on mine and it will crank a lot faster. Nice ride.
What kind of camera did you use on the video andel? Great res!
That's special - I have a V65 in my garage right now, graybush.
Thought I'd throw some numbers out too. so to hit 90 rwhp we need a 20% improvement. Cams that peak at 9,500 rpm's are a 12% increase in rpm's so a 12% improvement in output, maybe more since the volumetric efficiency is probably rolling off well below 8500 rpm's now and could be improved. a good port and polish will net 3 to 5% and I'm sure the intake, exhaust and tuning will net another 5% so 90 rwhp is pretty reasonable. Cams alone could put you at 85rwhp or a 12% improvement.
That's a sportbike engine (VFR 750) in the bike. It makes its peak power at 8500-9000 rpm. It likes being shifted there and these engines are pretty fucking bullet proof.
Fantastic sound!
you may need forward controls, I am about 300lbs but only 5' 10". The Magna's are awesome bikes, if you can take it for a test ride.
RPM's don't kill gasoline engines. They're made to rev. Unless the engine is over-revved to the point of exploding or the oiling system is inadequate to maintain high rpm operation, it won't do any damage. These motors are made to rev.
sounds great! what exhaust is that?
is that a cell phone camera? how do you hold it? I'll make one.
I have Magna's VF750C(japanese version with dynojet) 1995 years...i ride on her top speed 190 km/h
beginning of video caption
*PEEK-A-BOO I SEE YOU*
There were a lot of hills and curves.I do not make boring clips just on the highway, where you drive only straight.
Nice run there. I have an 82.
You know you can learn to up-shift it without the clutch without hurting anything. In fact when you get the feel and timing it's easier on up-shifts than using the clutch while accelerating. Especially easier on things that pulling the clutch in and shifting with the throttle open, over-reving the engine like you did at 0:53 and again at 1:17.
Under power, put upward pressure on the shift lever before shifting and just turn the throttle off and back on as fast as you can. It will shift. In fact the faster you are with the throttle the easier on the gearbox it is. You can make it nearly seamless.
I learning it drag racing starting with my 70 Kawasaki Mach III and my 72 Mach IV. I learned it from national record holding stock class riders.
I have never busted a gear.
downshifting or any shifting where you're not right back to the throttle is a different story.
You do not want to be 500 RPMs over on these. There's no advantage and you can hurt it. The power curve flattens at redline, there's nothing more to get.
I think it's worth just clutching to play it safe and not worry about missing and ruining a gear. I've heard lots of people ruin gears shifting like this and I completely understand if you don't miss it's fine but a lot of people miss, lol.
they are fully synchronized transmissions there is not missing a grear. There are a couple of false neutrals but it you hit one just pull the clutch in and let the revs come down and finish the shift. It only happens when you cat careless about enough pressure with you toe and only happens if you're wide open or at least accelerating hard.
Tell me you've never got careless with the clutch an missed you timeing a crunched a shift.
In city traffic I can make the up shifts sound like and automatic transmission. It is easier on the transmission and creates zero clutch wear. You say you know lots of guys that have messed up gears with no cluch shifting. How come I don't know any? I do know lots of guys that have worn out the clutch. Some idiots get all macho about the term powershifting. That's where you leave the throttle open and use the clutch to shift it. 2 problems there. If you're at or near redline and pull the clutch in you over-rev the engine. I drive my bike and my car hard but I NEVER over-rev an engine unless by mistake. Often the damage from over-reving doesn't show up that day. You just end up days or weeks later wondering where that knock came from. Plus there is the tremant amount of clutch wear. The clutch ends up pulling the over-reved enging down to transmission speed. Exceeding red line is the worse thing you can do to an engine.
Have you tried it. Try it in city driving. I do recommend using the clutch in casual riding shifting first to second as that's the widest gear change but form there use you normal sift points and put a modest amount toe pressure on the shifter and blip the throttle. I'm amazed at how smooth it can be. Just a click.
The only real danger is in running full throttle. Then you make one two with no clutch to and the rest. Running wide open or close to it you don't use modest pressure with the toe, you use hard upward force. If you don't you can find a false neutral and if you don't let the over-reved engine spin back down with the clutch in, it will crunch hard.
Just because it's called a false neutral doesn't mean it's not neutral. When you go to neutral at a stop you go to first and use light pressure to hunt for the spot between 1st and 2nd where neutral is. Fortunatly there's a light to tell you when you there. If you go hunting for neutrals between other gears most bikes will find one or two. So, hitting a false neutral is neutral and the input side is not connected to the output side. You wouldn' dream of going from neutral into gear without the clutch. So if you're a no clutch rider and find a neutral between 4 and 5 running wide open, maybe in a race your instinct is after closing the throttle because you just over-revved it is to just jam in 5th and get back after it.
It will object to going from neutral to 5th without the clutch smoothing out the difference between the input and out put sides of the transmission. Shifting from neutral into gear is a different process than shifting from gear go gear in synchronized transmissions.
Stopped in neutral the input side of the transmission is spinning at engine speed and the output side is not turning. Pulling the clutch in lets the input side spin to a stop before you push it in gear. You probably know this if you've ever set the idle speed too high or have just a little clutch drag especially on hydraulic clutches and had trouble getting in first with no crunch. If you hit neutral on my old magna at 10000 rpms that's how fast the input side is spinning. You must disengage the engine from the input side, make the shift, then let the clutch smooth out the differences in speed and momentum between the 2 sides of the transmission. That is why even in city traffic just tooling around I always use rev matching blips on every downshift. When you do that right the clutch has very little to do.
So to recap, only real danger to upshifing without the clutch is panicking if you hit a false neutral.
And to be clear I'm not saying it's safe to downshift without the clutch.
In a drag race you'll give up half a second using the clutch.
Carbon Crank rev matching nobody knows how to do that anymore. !!!!! I used to race the 1978 cow 900 an 1000. But the CR 250 2 Strokes. Hitting the doubles and triples under hard-ass throttle and flying through the air was much more fun for 13 or 14 years. !!! I'm getting ready to buy a beautiful purple and white VF 750 custom deluxe with the factory fairing and windscreen Vance & Hines exhaust Corbin seat. It looks like a show bike with 17,000 miles on it I can pick it up for $2,100. Just needs new tires and the carbs cleaned and probably jetted. !!!! It'll be for sale next year for 3950 dollars. !!!???!!!!
I got a yellow 96 model and i love it
Чумовая магна, но звук печальный конечно. И тормоза. Зато разгон может удивить очень многих ракетчиков в потоке )))
Thanks so much for the video. I am often asked why I own two bikes. One is a 93 GL1500 which is a great touring bike. It is awesome! The other a 99 Honda Magna V4 750, this video gives my explonation. AWESOME!
Have you seen the rare purple and white VF 750 custom. Deluxe with the factory fairing and windscreen. ????
I just got a '96 purple and white yesterday. Love it!
Awesome mate. Go safe.
awsome dude.........:D
What year is your magna?
4TH gear in the Nighthawk S was awesome.....lol
Oh man that was exciting.I just bought a 2001 nov.22. Problem. I live inOntario and it been sub 0 ever since. Solution.We're off to fla. Jan 2 and trailering The black Mag with us.
any modifications?
BADASS SOUND🤘🔥
I got a 98 Magna, 57K miles, and love it.
+PHJag In November bought the 97 Magna, 750 of course, 16k miles, and love it. I've only been up to 80mph on it but the bike pulls like a freight train none the less. Wicked acceleration and can withstand that red line. 50mph in 2nd gear lol
Mathew Nunley my starter went bad, and nobody on the internet seems to be selling a starter for a 94-03 Magna :( before that though, it was awesome, 0-60 faster then many modern sports cars.
*****
The only real problem I've had so far with the bike is that it jerks noticeably in 1st gear. The really slow rpms bog down the bike, but as soon as I move into 2nd, everything is fine. No starter huh? No way? Surely you would be able to find a starter or at least troubleshoot it some how?
+PHJag Now I've been up to 110 on it :D I cannot wait for the weather to get nice and hopefully take it out to a track so I can avoid possibly getting a speeding ticket. :)
what do you mean jerks? generally in first gear with lots of power available it jerks if you jerk the throttle.
@ColtonKuhn1 I have an 88 and it'll do a hundred, Not very comfortable but it'll do it no problem. Great post btw.
How many miles on it?
Oh, and it is a sport bike engine 'tuned for torque'. Honda stated this themselves back in 93. It's so close to a VFR750 Gen 4 engine that you can swap the two out and replace them with minimal work...as some Gen 3 Magna owners have done, seeing as the VFR750 engine is 100 rear wheel hp to the Magna's 76~ish. Another reason I was surprised the OP said it makes 90 - 100 on the dyno. Just hotter cams are NOT going take your dyno numbers from 76~ to 100. Not now. Not ever.
Akumu pretty sure my UK 1996 is 87bhp stock, can't really check at the moment, stuck in Spain due to Corona.
@@Loki1815 76 at the wheels, is what I meant. I can't edit the post. :(
I miss mine so bad:(
Holy shit, was that 50 MPH in first gear?
чёта я не понял!с чего у него вдруг шесть передачь?
It's not a sport bike engine. It's tuned for a wide power band, not peak hp like a sport bike. The bike is light relative to most cruisers but still over 500lbs so not sport bike light. These make about 85 to 90 bhp (at the flywheel) from the factory. I'd assume cams and some tuning could produce at least 5 to 10 hp. You answer your own question since you point out that the bike makes peak power around 8500. If it were cammed for 9500 rpm's it would make more peak hp. $500 for cams = 100hp
I got a 2001 Honda Magna . I also ride the hell out of it. Love it.
Rejetted,K&N, Modified exhaust.. Screams..
I ride with a proud Magna rider (02 VF750C) the bike makes 75hp. (Damn spunky for a cruiser, helps that it's so light.) To get to 90hp or 100hp (which is it?) you have to dump a good $5000 in the bike. You've done this? I'd like you to tell me what work it is that gets done, because you're shifting like you have 75hp.
14 front stock 40 rear ..... 50 $
Are you in 4th for the majority of the video?
I have one too! You could reach more...You know it.... :)
Problem is that you told him to: 1) get the V65, 2) stay newer than the year 2000 for his purchases, and 3) try a Versys.
Lmao
Wow.
In japanase version 75 H.P. in europian and american's version 87H.P.
Horsepower is torque times RPM. Cams will make the engine breathe at higher rpm. That alone is 10+hp bump. 90 rwhp is not 5000 worth of work. That's 20% more than 76hp which you admit the bike will make. Since it's not performance tuned to start with, cams, intake, exhaust, maybe a port and polish, and a good tune, and you're looking at 90 hp easy but it'll be higher in the rev band. That's not $5000 worth of work. If you do it yourself, it's under $1000.
nice
I know it's ok but I just can't Rev mine like that.
I'm buying a 96 purple and white V striped rare deluxe model with the factory. Faring windscreen. Vance & Hines exhaust and Corbin seat next week. !!! It only has 17,000 miles on it it needs new tires carbs cleaned and jetted. It looks like a show bike it'll be for sale next year for $3,950. !!! ????
You might want to post this revelation over at v4musclebike cuz EVERYONE over there posts what you can get out of this bike and for what cost. The 100+ of them over there would be quite surprised at 100hp for $500. Also powerband = the area between peak tq and peak hp. That's 7500(peak tq) to 9000 (peak hp). Not exactly 'wide'. And I never claimed it's sport bike light...because it isn't. At all. Not to the RR bikes anyways, and to hell with flywheel hp. Rear wheel hp is all that matters.
Quarter mile in 12.4 seconds
Are you running the stock gearing 16 tooth front, 40 tooth rear?
Thanks
This record 16/40 . Tire 170/80/15
Now 14/40. It is better.
Wow, I didnt think a 170 would fit in back. That's cool.Thanks
andeltom about to replace the chain and was thinking 15/40. u put 14/40, did u try 15/40 before 14/40? could u explain in what ways u think 'it is better'? thx man!
these are shaft driven arent they?
Jeremy Winter nope, magna's are usually belt or chain driven. Can't remember which one, but I know it's not a shaft drive.
Was it WOT 2:40-2:47 ?
No
Dude, I don't own a Magna. My wingman does, I don't pretend to know all about engines, but I know what I've read on those forums. Why won't you got to those forums and tell the 40+ Gen 3 Magna owners there that they're doing it wrong in trying to get a Gen 3 Magna past 90hp at the rear wheel for under $1000. I really have no dog in this fight, and yes I was just saying what I've read, which I took for truth. Silly me believed a guy that owns a Gen 1, Gen 2 and 2 Gen 3 Magnas.
👍
Check it out only 42,000 miles on the clock bulletproof V4 Engine. My advice, find one of these puppies!!!! Do I need saay AWESOME one more time!
1996
Did u remember if used 5th gear in this vid?
Honda should bring back magna with drive shaft duel front brakes 6 so with 105 hp and magna riders will buy it oh must be v4 engine no more than 10'000 dollars Honda will be a number one crusier amen ps I've owned 4magnas in my 50 yrs of riding
Great.....How many HP and whats the topspeed ?
not sure of the top speed but it is 87 hp
@@bigfoot5573 have checket, its 120mph or 200kph
my 1985 Nighthawk S 750 had 85 hp and I got it to 135 mph so the V45 should be comparable.@@clausandreasen5310
ale ziomuś męczy żelazo!!! multistrada v4s by mu się przydała!!!
Nice video and sound but slow ride, I ride my Magna at 130MPH.
How many Cruiser type bikes will do a hundred thirty miles an hour with no problem and hit the corners and make crotch rockets envious. !!!!!
rwhp is just flywheel hp or bhp minus the frictional losses to the drive train. If the drive train is comparable bhp is just as valid as rwhp. Apples to apples as long as you compare rwhp to rwhp or bhp to bhp. The power band is anywhere that the engine makes a significant amount of torque so from the point where it hits say 80% of peak torque so basically the entire rev range. You don't seem to have any first hand knowledge about engines. You are just spitting out what other people said.
Just git a free runnijg snd driving magna 500 from 85. Needs body work tho
is the 750 magna a 5 speed?
yes
richard myers Depends on which magna your talking about, the 750CH 1987-1988 Magna is 6 speed. 5+OD.
I think they are all six speeds. My 82 and the first generations are for sure.
Back to your original post, you said 90 to 100 hp was impossible for less than $5000. No one said 100 rwhp. He also didn't say it was rwhp. You're own logic is flawed since you mention the 100rwhp vfr750 engine is almost identical. Even if you go to high compression pistons, it's still under $2000 unless you're an idiot who rides your bike into a dealer and has them do all the work for you. With pistons, cams, port and polish, intake, exhaust and tuning 100rwhp at 9,500 easy.
looks me in PA lol
Look... LOOK WITH YOUR SPECIAL PEGS.
Go and buy yourself an R motorcycle and drive this one like it supposed to be driven... with smile... ;)
don't understand the need to keep the rpm's so high at all time. To do that there are other bikes ...
The VF750 or V45 Magna was really quite a dog. Had to keep the rpm's high to get any performance at all.
What year is that? I had a 1983 V45 Magna... and it was no dog, that's for sure. Fastest 1/4 mile in it's class... shaft drive (no chains or floppy belts), hydraulic clutch (no cable.. all hydraulic)... and it never gave me any grief. Never had to hit the redline either... Made me nervous seeing him way up in the red when he was only at 95mph or less.
that's a v4 engine, it's a sport bike engine on a cruiser
Sure, he can do the same speed at lower rpm in a higher gear, but keeping the bike in a lower gear with the rpms high allows you to decelerate quickly by just rolling off the throttle, rather then moving your hands and feet to use the brakes. Keeps you from eating the car that pulls out in front of you, and allows you to pass him easily without downshifting. These 3rd generation magnas will do 130+ on a flat straightaway, but he ain't drag racing here.
@@johnjones3648 DOG! I take it you have never owned or ridden one? As a cruiser it is kin awesome!
I'm rigid
For racing you need another bike bro
This is a 700.......
Nice twisty road, rider should learn how to shift though.
F..k the rules ..
rcflem...respect your elders....didn't yours teach you any manners?
...?
The V65 stopped production in 1985 or 1986.
And then you recommend a 650 Versys with less HP than the V45?
You don't know shit about bikes, bro. 2/10 for getting me to respond.
Too slow...
This is a touring bike, not a race bike! Please do not overturn the engine. I stopped watching at 0:37, did not have nerves to see more. Take care of your self and the other trafficants.
This guy don't know how to ride but he knows how to keep the RPMs up to blow up an engine.. that bike are to be doing a hundred thirty miles per hour at 8000 RPMs. ????
Was hört sich die scheiße an. Nur am blech schreien
This guy is a novice bike rider. He is way over-reving that bike. He's keeping it at or above redline most of the time. His power peak is below that by a couple of hundred RPM.s