Tiny 12V radio remote receiver (schematic and programming guide)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- This product is extremely functional, but has been designed to fit in a very tiny box with absolutely no room for wires. You may need to modify it to make them fit, noting that running wires past the antenna may reduce its range.
That said, the design is good and the software in the ubiquitous little 8 pin microcontroller is very functional, allowing several remotes to be added with completely different functions assigned to each remote. This type of module is usually compatible with most of the generic remotes available on eBay. That makes it more versatile than the "kinetic" self-powering remote control systems, which tend to use proprietary codes. Although the common remotes do require a small battery, in most cases it should last for years and is cheap and easy to replace.
Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software.
To clear all existing codes, press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing, and then release the button and wait for a few seconds as it erases existing codes.
If the LED doesn't start flashing then the unit may use a different erasing technique. Turn it off and on again and then click the button 8 times. That should clear the existing codes.
To program each mode, press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button.
Press the remotes button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.)
If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions.
Modes:-
1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching.
2 - Single button toggle on/off.
3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently.
4 - Single button timer 5-second delay.
5 - Single button timer 10-second delay.
6 - Single button timer 15-second delay.
7 - Single button timer 20-second delay.
Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code.
These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz. In the UK 433MHz is a standard frequency.
The RF chip may be a VI590R. Here's the datasheet:-
datasheet.lcsc...
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of RUclips's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Ahh the Kink Palculator makes a steady appearance, I forgot about that one for the Big Clive dictionary.
Every time Clive takes the RF transmitters out for a test, I can't help but wonder how many of his neighbors are experiencing random lights going on and off... at least with the "standards based" but "made in China" ones 🤣
Well if news of haunted houses in the Isle of Man pop out we'll know the cause 😂
Not only, all the Henske remote RF switches use same code for same 4 channels, I have two remotes from switch kits brought 2 years apart and both remotes control all the 4 plug-in units I have now, also I got a chance to replace a relay in one as it welded itself always on._
Best comment I’ve read today
@@DjResR They do that and yet we keep using them
I've a strong feeling that somebody nearby does have an issue with a remote device blocking a common frequency. My electricity meter power monitor often loses contact at a specific time range on some nights.
I added a 12v trolley bell (an actual bell, that uses a solenoid to strike the bell) to my EV to warn bicyclists and pedestrians that I'm behind them. I installed it next to the auxiliary 12 volt battery in the motor compartment. Rather than run wires though the firewall to a switch, I used a wireless remote relay (set to momentary) to ring the bell. The fob hangs from an air vent close to the steering wheel. Works like a charm! Ding Ding Ding!
Should hook it up to a klaxon to warn the bicyclists and pedestrians that you're preparing to surface.
RF chip matches pinout of Vibration (Shenzhen) VI590R, also crystal frequency of 13.52127 MHz for 433.92MHz band. Sub 9.81563MHz for the 315MHz band.
For reasons I can't explain, I feel like I need one. Another fine video. Cheers from Kansas.
For reasons I can't explain, I purchased one!
@@gedtoon6451 Funnily enough, so did I.
Neat little gizmo, lots of potential uses.
That relay makes this module ideal for so many projects besides switching an LED.
One could add a one shot 555 timer circuit to extend the time to whatever.
You come up with good ones Clive.
Glad to hear from people who recognize that a simple 555 circuit can be so versatile. These days it seems that most folks immediately turn to a microcontroller for even the simplest tasks!
That is a really useful module. Especially since you can add several input devices for control. Very useful. I can already imagine several use-cases.
Nice one Clive; had a 433 remote knocking around so having seen your vid, I bought the receiver and it paired no problems!!
We're lucky to have you sharing your knowledge. Regards, Rob.👍👏
i use a 4 way version on my 'solar shed' - getting mains to the shed would be expensive, so i fitted solar panels and a few car batteries. the RF Relay controlsa 2 x 30w floods, 4 x 2w led filament, an LED tape for internal illumination and a bluetooth amplifier. love it
That sounds like a pretty neat setup.
@@rolfs2165 works well for me
For about 10 seconds I was thinking "why would you want to amplify bluetooth?" guess I was still thinking about radio too much after this video.
@@Milamberinx ha ha, provides background music without needing physical access to the ass end of the shed to change anything. Have had to replace the speakers though, others weren't as waterproof as advertised
@@markb4071 yep, I did realise what you meant after that embarrassing delay.
I've had a similar issue with a 'waterproof' radio that just wasn't.
I like the sound of your solar shed. If I ever get around to home ownership I'll have a go at a solar power system of some kind. Not soon though.
people call you the "Bob Ross of electrics" but I prefer to think of you as the Tim Hunkin of electrics"
Great stuff. You can also use this with an Arduino + RF Module (very cheap) to remote control things (with a schedule or something else). You can also make your own codes so you can pair unique events.
I build a couple of internet controlled power strips using a Raspberry Pi, a usb wifi dongle, and a relay board. Relay boards are awesome: they have the flyback diode and opto isolators and even indicator LEDs on them, making integration into your project a breeze.
0:45 "I'm going to open this up for a start and show you how they jam so much in a very small space".
What a coincidence - my partner said something similar to me the night we met.
The maximum of 7 presses, with no extra presses making a difference, makes it sound like they are using a single-byte shift register to store the number of presses. All 0s as the initial state, every press pushes another 1 into the register, then they just read how many 1s after the time delay to determine which mode to program, then reset to all 0s again.
I was thinking it was wasteful at first (8 bits can normally store 256 values, instead of a maximum of... 9...) but it actually makes a lot of sense. You don't have to worry about overflow with a shift register, or control for out-of-bounds situations. Plus, if you can only allocate a minimum number of bits (i.e. one byte) on whatever platform, it makes sense to use all of them instead of keeping a bunch of useless trailing 0s.
The only thing that is a bit weird is that there's 7 button presses before it stops changing, instead of 8. Maybe it's reset with a single bit pre-loaded, and the "delete all codes" mode is set with a state of all 0s.
Or maybe I'm overthinking this. I do that a lot.
Well, maybe they don't use a 8 bit byte but a smaller bytesize so they can store more data. Even 3 bits would be sufficient. For example using one byte to store the code of the remote-key (5 bits) combined with the reaction that needs to be stored in memory. I don't know which codes the remotes send - would be nice to find out somehow ;-)
I like watching your videos for education and curiosity and to learn more it always is fascinating
Finally! Been waiting for some RF stuff. Thank you!
It's good that there's separation on the relay contacts, could also be used for mains switching, though not in that enclosure.
Cool ! I really like that receiver ! Thank you Clive and have a great one !
Just the other day I purchased a 4 channel remote similar to the single channel one you explained. The instructions on how to use that button wasn't explained very well so was pleased when you came up with this video. Mine has a jumper to select momentary / toggle / latch. Thanks for explaining how this one works and like you these are very nice units.
THE LEGEND HIMSELF HAS UPLOADED AGAIN
This tasty voice, oh! I'm already happy!
Thanks for the videos. Ham radio operators like myself share the 70CM band 430 - 440 MHz with these units. Also, weather station & gas & electric usage transmitters to monitor the consumption & other remote units & car door locking & alarms. Not an issue as we have 10 MHz bandwidth available to us at these UHF frequencies. They are in the FM section of the band. We hear them & can stop them from functioning if we use the same frequency. We have to share without causing interference.
İ have been searching for rf circuits and how do they work for a long time and the king just came with his best!!
Used one of these (3 function) units recently for remote momentary activation of an antique flag panel and bell. Long range and reliable operation. I took it out of the plastic enclosure and mounted it in a wooden box with the DC supply and bell transformer. Such a versatile and cheap solution for remote switching.
That's a really handy thing, thanks for showing us! I really like it.
Had one of these with 4 relays switching the outdoor lights for 7 years now. Amazing stuff!
I get quite excited to see a new Big Clive video is up and then you treat us with such a handy little gizmo. With all of this you're spoiling us Clive 😁
I heard radio schematics and i cleared my whole schedule for the day. All yours Clive. Hack away.
I think I've said this before, but connecting one of these receivers set to Momentary up to a car horn and hidden somewhere "outside" would be a hilarious prank to annoy someone, but also quite useful for setting up remote-switched lights when doing wiring would be unfeasible... :D
Radio controlled light switches make think of the bloke who was too lazy to get out of bed, so he shot out the bulb with an air rifle! - It's an ancient skit out of a long since discontinued TV series.
I suppose you could program two (or more) receivers to respond to one at the same time? - Handy if you wanted to switch on an extractor fan and bathroom light in one go?
Yes, as many receivers as you want, only be carefull when setting the up because they don't always respond at the same time.
I have some on my bike to control the lights... sometimes the frontlight goes off and the backlight goes on at the time of switching but the next time they go on and off at the same time. I need to turn the feed of the power off for a while to reset them to starting-state (all off) and get them in sync again.
it is really strange when the back light is powered on when the frontlight goes off (in your case the fan would turn off when the light goes on and vv).
You can drill holes( cut slots) in the enclosure next to the terminal connections, so the wire come out straight more easily. I like the momentary switch function.
Thank you I found this video very interesting because I've had one of these switching my lounge ceiling light for the last 4 years and I never knew it could take multiple remotes. Very useful!
I have more or less the exact same unit, now in use for probably 2 years, for remotely switching my outside 12V LED lights under the carport and it works very well.
Thank you for letting us know about this interesting product, and providing the tech teardown and application tutorial.
It is out-scope of this product's video, but it would be great to be able to actuate one or more of the types of remote transmitter switches with various types of sensors such as a PID or radar proximity sensor or etc.
I have what I think is a matching PIR sensor on its way.
Adding the instruction manual to the receiver will quadruple it's size! :-)
I love these little units, ive a 4 way one on my boat for my horn and headlight as I couldnt trace the fault on the original lines as they go behind walls so now they are wireless 😂
Bought receiver after watching your video. Excellent product. TY.
Really handy units. Use one of these and a car style remote fob to switch off the throttle on my ebike. With all controversy in recent years not allowing use of a throttle on public roads. So by using relay to switch off the 5 v supply to throttle , I can if stopped by police ,instantly and discreetly,disable the throttle and I’m street legal.
If questioned I can just say that bikes are supplied in Europe with the throttle fitted but disabled.
If the kinetic switch is based on the same tx10 chip then it operates at 2.4GHz. I found some documentation on a couple of sites, one was a security gate monitoring system which showed the programming (using a buzzer rather than flashing the lamp), the other was a site for RC trains which told me about the frequency.
Thank you I just bought one of these modules and needed the instructions. Another use for the time delay is say running a fan or dust collection system for a few seconds to make sure the debris is completely collected. I say this because it really confused me on the dust collection system that I'm becoming acquainted with.
Other than not getting the remote and module that were pictured I wanted on off and a relay and i did not get that. I got them a few weeks back. It's good to know that they are interchangeable if I were to want to pick up another one I could choose the remote I actually want to use with it. I really like the car keychain fob with the silver edge it's got some nice weight to it.
Oh yeah forgot to mention my plan was to make a remote to control the inverter I have in the car. I got the extra wired remote panel which I reverse engineer shocker. it's got a switch, 2 LED's a 6 pin phone cord consisting of 2 grounds, 2 light signals and 2 switch contacts. So my plan was to switch the switch contacts and possibly draw power or use a coin cell with the the receiver. Power supplication need to be investigated.
Hey Clive, thank you for all of your great videos! I'd be interested to watch you do a teardown of powerline network adapters - we use them at work sometimes and I've always wondered exactly how they work. Fascinating little devices.
The long 4 button remote is the same as I got with some floor lamps I got recently, but the lamps have no accessible program button I've found, so I have 2 identical but unique remotes I must use both. It's a pretty nice feeling remote, we shall see how long that weird battery lasts. At least mine has part numbers on the transmitter ic that had some information online about it. If only it had an fcc approval marking on it, I'd try to get a few more of these, especially since my modified Sonoff RF can send out the codes as well with substantial range. That programmable receiver seems pretty awesome.
I've used similar modules on electric gates . 433mhz is not as secure as rolling code but on low level security scenarios it's cheaper to buy the receiver and a few remotes than buying the brand remotes for the gate. Also if you want lights on your piers they're ideal. You have permanent supply(and a pipe to the far side pier for the motor) at the gate but can't get switch wires to the house.
2044 is probably just the usual year-week date code. If they're deriving a higher frequency from the 13.52... MHz, they'd be using a PLL (phase locked loop).
Too bad they choose a generic box meant for something else. If the holes had lines up with the terminals, this could have been nicer. I'd consider making a special 3D printed box for this, perhaps with strain relief built in.
IMO, the text describing the modes isn't obsolete. It is correct and lists the most important modes, and then you're just expected to remember the time delay modes yourself.
The 220 ohm resistor is only dropping 220*0.003=0.66 V. Even with the LED and transistor active, that's only an additional 3 mA max. The regulator isn't close to dissipating even 100 mW. My guess is rather that the 220 ohm resistor is there for noise/spike suppression, including from the relay coil.
9:20: Shielding. The ground, and at frequency decoupled power, pin on the outside provides a certain amount of shielding at the connector, and makes shielding on the board easier. (not my specialty at this time, but long ago, it was, and these designs go WAY back)
So it's very cleverly made.. : ) i like it.. its got cool features. & the lighting strike LED(neon) is cool. haven't seen that one before.. : ) great video!
P.S. the resistor before the 5V regulator is a good idea, i'll have to use that one next time i need a regulator..
Bought this even smaller RC switch, works well, handy tiny form factor.
Great video clive , think we need another garden diy project 👍
Used a few different variations of these for various purposes over the years. Some of the multi channel units have different operating modes, such as a four channel module that only allows one of the four relays to be active at any one time.
10:10 Looks like the relay is rated to switch mains voltage, so you definitely want that separation between the traces. I'm a bit concerned about the trace for the NC contact so close to the edge of the board, but I guess it's OK since the board is stuffed inside a plastic box.
I can use this for something im working on right now! Thank you so much, Grand Clive! ❤
One day I'm going to build a switch that's going to have 4.2 million functions ☺ just imagine the possibilities 🤔 you will never get bored with turning something on
Since no one else said it ...
*Clive is the Bob Ross of the electrical world.*
I'm with you on that
I'd love to see you do a video on cheap Chinese 240v touchlight modules. I like them for making bedside lamps out of old brass oil light bases with an Eddison patent bulb but deliberately wiring a Chinese, mains-carrying PCB up to an unearthed metal casing gives me the heebie-jeebies every time. It's also still like black magic.
The Chinese units do often use less than ideal separation. For extra safety you could possibly add a sleeved 100K half watt resistor in series with the touch sensing wire. (Half watt for its higher voltage rating.)
@@BigClive Cheers, that would be a cheap and simple thing to do.
There's modules like this that actually use the microcontroller well
And then there's products that spend their whole life blinking an LED on and off...
That wall control would be perfect for the led strips under my cabinets
This RF IC is probably VI520R or something later from same manufacturer (datasheet on LCSC) Almost 1:1 circuit in application note. This particular quartz sets it's operating frequency to 433.92 MHz
I can see why you find it an interesting and nifty device. It is.
The best thing for the receiver side of these is you can add any antenna you want without risking a fine by the transmitterpolice people,
dual-quad worked fine for me, you can use a dvb-t antenna calculator for it entering the proper mhz...
Hooray for the Cink Palculator!!!
The crystal gives you a different frequency to the receiver frequency so as to do down conversion. IE 433MHz - 432.68= 320KHz not a standard SAW filter frequency but it would work. You can also just use an RC network at 320KHz for your mixer and filter., and it's low enough frequency to be done on the silicon. A microcontroller is going to find extracting data from a 320KHz signal way easier than from 433MHz depending on the method of encoding of course.
If you are interested in the profesh edition of these thingies,
including mesh / point to point network, chip ids, switching, flags and data transmission (rs232), take a look at IRIS Base.
They come around 50 bucks a module. i used them and their "up to 1km range" is not exagerrated. and if it doesnt work just drop an additional one in the middle.
(there are industrial prebuild versions available but heaploads more expensive)
www.conrad.com/p/trl-funksysteme-60901-iris-starter-kit-433mhz-component-191601 warning: there are 3.3V and 5V modules, the lower one is instadead on the 5V
Got few of these other day following the wireless switch video, took little time to work out how to program, as no instructions and no hints on the listing. Thought quite good so ordered some more. Got bear unit no case pretty cheap free shipping 🙂
2044 could be the manufacturing year/week of the PCB - 2020, week 44 - would that fit?
It was only the start of the evening, how do you lull me to sleep like so!?!?!?
I use loads of these for building window cleaning Water fed pole trolley pump control
Could you scope the output of the battery powered buttons vs the self powering ones to see what's different and perhaps determine why they aren't compatible with each other?
How do all your hand-drawn schematics come out so neat and tidy? Do you trace out it out on scrap paper and then redraw it in a more logical layout? I'm asking because they look so much better than when I draw out my own reverse engineered schematics.
My guess is he reverse engineers the schematic off-camera immediately after the teardown, long before he says "bring in The Notepad," then copies it to The Notepad for edutainment purposes. It serves a purpose of helping us understand how this stuff works without having to watch Clive faff about figuring out the circuit.
I'm glad I'm not the only on that call a 6F22 , a PP3, I get some funny looks when I buy new batteries for my test equipment and ask for a PP3 , and I have to say the 9 volt one , got any of them I must go through hundreds of them every year
My lounge light is remote control ( has the same ABCD remote you used ) ( 433.920 Mhz ) I got a generic copy cat key fob remote so I can turn my lights on when i arrive home from work. I can even turn the light on in my car as i drive past the Back of the house.
I don't remember exactly, but I think the circuitry near the antenna is for impedance matching, not so much carrier frequency control. Something about power transfer to an antenna. But could be wrong, I've slept since my RF electronics course in 1992!
I wish I understood all of this well so I could make it. Thanks for the videos, Clive! I learn a lot, even if sometimes I get lost ha
A very compact unit as you mentioned, It's a shame about the wires having to be squidged in but it's very functional and because of its size could easily be tucked out of the way.. I love the lightning bolt lamp is it only available in one colour do you know?
Thanks, Clive.
The lightning bolt is from eBay and comes in a couple of colours, but I retrofitted it with blue LED-neon just before the video, as the original was 5V. You could make one in any colour you want by fitting 12V material in.
@@BigClive thanks Clive I will have a look-see what colour would suit best, although Blue is a good colour representing lightning.
_Clive speaks so quietly and in a very smooth tone, I'm already falling asleep._
By the way, do any your neighbors on the Isle of Man speak Gaelic these days? I'm just curious, thanks.
The momentary mode would be good for a electric door lock like we have at work
@@akak5128 That might not be a disadvantage if he intends to steal stuff from his work.
I've got the allocacoc power outlet + the orange/white remote. I like it a lot.
i have the same unit that i use to turn my hp computer on remotely, using the 12 volt standby, if you want to use them to turn on a computer with a 5v standby, change the relay to 5v and bridge the polarity diode, though i think the relay should still work with 4v and the bridging might not be required, and tap into the on off button wires on the relay switch terminals, with the remote set to jog, with the computers power on button, for button a and the reset for button b on the remote, for the reset button you need a 2ch relay
I've been using the very same receiver modules for a couple years and they work great. The problem I have is that every transmitter fob I buy is shite. Works for a couple months and then the tactile switches under the buttons fail. Meh. The fobs aren't expensive but it's a pain having to order replacements every few months.
It might be a small but it is bulging. Very interesting little item indeed. Cheers sir. 2x👍
Did you say "Kink Palculator"? 😂
He did indeed say "Kink Palculator"! - If you haven't seen the live streams, you probably missed the moment when it became so called.
I came looking for this comment cause I was like "wait what?!" and had to re-listen a bunch of times xD
@@28YorkshireRose12 I’ve missed a few of the recent streams. Ugh.
The other data pin maybe a carrier detector, these also double up as am detectors, where the other maybe FM.
I have used similar modules, where the second output is a carrier detector that can be used to gate the data signal, making it less susceptible to interference. The carrier detector can also be used to identify jamming signals, maybe from similar units.
There are all sorts of questions about the RF receiver. What is the modulation used? what is the carrier frequency?
What is the range of the switch to the receiver? It would be nice to scope the receiver signals and workout the modulation and packet length. Do you know if the codes used are open source?
These units are clearly very hackable, maybe replacing the transmitter buttons with the output from a sensor or alarm.
I'm guessing the kinetic buttons don't work because their signal duration isn't long enough for the receiver units to be recognized.
“YAYYYY CRISP-VOICE ELECTRONICS MAN MADE ANOTHER VIDEO!!!!” -me briefly, before being asked “what?” By my coworker.
Keep an eye on him, he might think that you're insane
@@MrHack4never I think he’s already passed that point. (Take that as you will)
I have seen that plastic box on two occations. Both it was a series inductor on the positive wire of a car headunit.
You mention two data pins from the RF section but it looks like they are only using one of them? Also those programming points near the microcontroller.. I'd be tempted to set up an arduino with an I2C scanning program loaded and see what it might find in either case...
Sometimes 432 and some change is close enough to 433, sometimes it's not.
Do you have a sufficiently accurate frequency counter to tell if the kinetic switches are simply not close enough? I'm suspecting they're either a bit too high or a bit too low.
Other likely possibility is the pulse width is insufficient or shaped wrongly. Compare the outputs of the kinetic and battery switches on your 2 channel O-scope. (I'm asking you to do so because I can't seem to find any of the kinetic switches where I am and I have a bug up my ass about Amazon and Ebay right now.)
You do have a 2 channel O-scope, right?
Great video - they never list these functions on amazon
Thanks Clive! Ordered after watching your video, arrived today. And my home automation (Domoticz) recognizes the signal as well, so can easliy be integrated in the house. Yust dunno yet what I will switch with it.
The RF chip is SYN480R
Clive,
Do you ever take a holiday?
Love ya bud, keep up the smashing work.
Calum
Handy little gadget, thanks for posting.
Thank you, Clive
Great video Clive! I feel like these little radio remote receivers with relays in them are things that sometimes get left by the wayside in making your own smart home stuff. Yes, it's very easy to rig up an esp8266 which is always pulling the internet but these things use remarkably small amounts of power um and as you can see none of the switches on the table there are connected to any kind of power source and that's because the batteries in them last a very very long time. We featured this in this weeks episode of The Electromaker Show: ruclips.net/video/zKZmQcmGcco/видео.html
It would be nice if you provided a link where you got these.
I like it
Bit isn't a relay overkill if you only want to switch low current devices? The relay and screw terminals make the unit at least twice as big as it could be. I'd prefer it to be much smaller.
They do tiny MOSFET based units.
I drilled 5 holes in the plastic case that lined up with the terminal block.
It's similar to the 120v module I used to replace my brother's ceiling fan light switch in his bedroom because he had problems walking due to stage 4 cancer. Unfortunately, he died a week later. We were all just stunned that he died so quickly. He died in September 2019. He was just shy of 54 years old, and he died the same day our mother died.
i am pretty sure i have a 20 year old version of these somewhere, if you are interested in taking a look i can see if i can locate it?
One of mine latched up today and wouldn't clear its memory or learn any new codes, despite doing all the correct LED flashing routine when I pressed the Learn button. I managed to do a hard reset by disconnecting the supply whilst keeping the Learn button pressed. It was a long shot but it's now working again (-:
There's also a 4 channel version with 4 relays - useful!
This one is tiny.
It uses a mosfet instead of a relay, and has the same programming method as described in the video.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/433Mhz-1CH-RF-Relay-Receiver-Wireless-Remote-Control-Light-Switch-Micro-Moduyu/392847727530