@@eriklarson9137 bro everyone forgets little things while building a car and sometimes comments like these have helped him to remember little things like this
I was thinking the same but also I would problem have some heat shield or even a piece of sheet metal separating the fuel cell and the diff just in case of a diff failure it goes into pieces it won't destroy the fuel cell... maybe not just seems kinda close. But definitely would not be great heat wise vapor locks do suck!
@@gwpentertainment9671 My first thought was the u joint coming apart by the fuel cell. I will admit however I don't know the construction specs of these fuel cells. I'm just an average guy with little experience in the world of race cars.
I always think how cool it would be to spend a week hanging out watching you work Taylor. Your thought process and your simplistic and effective way you fabricate reminds me so much of my dad. You're a very talented dood 👌
Loving the build! Its all going so smooth (hope I didn't jinx it!) Little tip - I find it waaay easier to knock the plasma slag off with an old chisel (doesn't have to be sharp) and a hammer, takes a couple of seconds and leaves a much cleaner finish than you would expect - better than trying to grind it all off for sure, give it a try!
Taylor, first off you're an amazing mechanic and fabricator and such a knowledgeable dude, but second you are the only person I have ever heard in my entire life to say "close enough for government work" besides my father who was a mailman for 35 years lmaoo. Keep it up man
I noticed Kevin from KSR Performance & Fabrication gave your Corvette a mention in his latest ("The Destroyed " C5 Corvette Roll Cage Project Begins!!) video Taylor you are getting some praise from your peers 😁 It's good to see you have the right people appreciating your work Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
I was a press operator for years and learned a few tricks to correcting a bend that went over what you needed. One of the best ones is to flip the piece over and press the brake back out. Put the top dye right on the apex of the bend. Slowly press until you get the desired angle. Next best is hit the outside of the bend with a dead blow hammer along the apex until you get the desired angle.
That was exactly what i thought as i saw the End of the differential Open Directly under the fuel Tank… really Should Throw a Thick Loop or plate there to protect the fuel cell
try using a piece of aluminum or brass for a backing when you have a gap that you need to weld up. Also when welding aluminum, brass or stainless steel works for it. Just a tip
Killer video. I keep learning about these chassis for mine. One thing I would build a barrier between the fuel cell and driveshaft/exhaust. You break a driveshaft it will take out that fuel cell and hit exhaust. Just looking out. Fuel fire ain’t no joke.
when you cut with the plasma you can knock the slag off with a small hammer just gentle taps on the slag at the edge of the steel that will take it off quick and easy cuts clean up almost out of the picture! it's my go to on plasma cut peices every time! love the build progress going to be one sick car for sure!
Love your fab videos and you basically demystify the process. Your stuff is not super complicated and over the top, but it's still high quality and something to be proud of. Beyond that, it feels like something I could get my way through given the space and time.
Hey Taylor, I work in a fab shop that uses a cnc plasma all the time. The way I have found to relatively easily remove slag from steel is with a chipping hammer or sharpened wide cold chisel/wood chisel. Please give it a try. I hope that makes your life easier! P.S. I love the color theme of your new drift rig.
I love that its a drift car that's gonna end up getting beaten on a track and yet you still built it like its gonna make it to Sema now you can recognize a real car guy. I love your content keep it up !
Hey Taylor, awesome build and I love the color combo. I cut a lot of materials with a plasma and I’ve found a knotted wire wheel works best for removing the slag. Can’t wait to see the end of this one!
Couple plasma cutting tips; Use a thicker burn bar, I like 1/2 flat bar because 1/4” and 3/8” will sometimes hit the taper on my plasma cutters shield If you’re very vertical and at a decent speed you should have little to no slag As several people mentioned, breaking the slag off with a cold chisel is way faster and cleaner than sanding And when a cold chisel doesn’t work, clamp the piece and use a 4 1/2” grinder. The sander is slower, takes more consumables, and while you’re comfortable with it, my personal opinion (with a fab shop of equipment to use) it isn’t the right tool for the job All in all great video and I really like how your fab skills are coming! I think it’s interesting that you don’t like learning from RUclips or other people who have done the work professionally, but you should definitely be proud of your progress. Every video I want to send you a couple tools (like a bevel and contour gauge), but I do feel like there’s some things you do better than I do, and I’ve been a fab shop supervisor for years. So given some time, I bet you’ll progress even further than I can imagine!
Couple questions, are you gonna add any shielding to the bottom of the fuel cell in case of a drive shaft breaking? Or to keep the exhaust from heating the fuel?
Hey man pro tip really easy way to knock slag off from the plasma is to slide it down aggressively against a hardened surface (the belt sander will work perfect) comes off with little to no force all you have to to is follow Thu with the motion it definitely changed my life I use the base to my drill press makes working with the plasma a lot more enjoyable
If you're looking for factory hard lines I cannot recommend enough a company called classic tube. They're about a half hour from me but they do pre bent stainless line that will bolt right in to factory positions. Their customer service is amazing and for pre bent lines I don't think you can beat them
Love your corvette build, after I'm done with my GMC Sonoma turbo LS swap, a corvette will be next. I am watching your build to definitely borrow some pointers. Keep up the build.
When you are using that rivnut tool on the drill, turn the clutch down on it so once it hits that pressure the clutch will disengage and stop spinning the drill so that you wont ever spin the rivnut in the hole. Im sure you will have to mess around to figure out which number you need to be on with the clutch adjustment. But it will Really make a difference. It looked like your drill had a clutch adjustment so figured id recommend it.
An angle grinder with a medium flap disc works best for getting the slag off. Also, a chipping hammer for stick welding works wonders to. Just slide the hammer into the edge, and it'll knock it right off.
Taylor, to get the slag off after plasma cutting use a knotted wire wheel and it will come right off, belt sanding like that doesn't work well and just melts it down and makes more work.
Hey, just a tip on cleaning up the plasma cut parts. Try a cupped wire wheel on and angle grinder, you have to hold the grinder at a 45° to the work piece but it usually comes right off.
Those pieces I could easily print with my 3D-printer and seems appropriate since they probably doesn't have to withstand more than 80° C (176° F). That's about the limit of certain filament you can print with common FDM-printers like ASA or PETG Carbon.
You should pneumatic riv nut tool, I use it all the time at work, comes in 1/4in (3/8 hole) and 5/16 (1/2in hole). You can feel how tight it gets through the trigger
just make the first test drive in my c6 drift car ive been wrenching on for 2 months. Its so rowdy definitely the coolers car ive ever had. cant wait to tandem with yours some day.
Great video, you asked in the past about doing voice over in your video. You handled it very well and I found it quite enjoyable! Keep up the great work!
On sheet metal you can put any dissimilar metal behind it to help soak the heat and when you have big gaps you can use it to prevent you from melting into the inside a ton like hold the weld up for steel and stainless you can use aluminum or copper I keep all kinds of machine shop scraps from 1x1” solid blocks down to 1/8” for aluminum you can use steel not ideal but works if ya clean the mill scale off stainless or coppper. Simple trick to help when things don’t go as smooth as they should or they have specific requirements that demand you use it works the same
That’s cool to watch it’s really artwork. I feel like you should round off the corners hanging off the side could end up catching you leg on the corner
You should of painted that tub and frame with "steel-it" paint... it's weldable paint, you can weld directly over the paint and paint over it again... and the color is kinda nice and would of fit your theme although it would of been a bit darker. it's a game changer for project cars
Or just paint it when every chassis piece is done. Painting it before you work on it is just asking for it to get messed up. That tranny tunnel feels like it would've been better welded in.
@@sampic_ he said in a video before painting that the most efficient way of painting is building the whole thing un painted and then take it all apart and paint it all at once, but he doesn't have Time to do that because of the time crunch he is on...
For the plasma cutting getting the slag off before you go at it with the grinder grab a hammer and tap down the cut edge and you can knock of a lot of the slag
Check out Pan American threaded drill bits. You’ll need a pneumatic 90 degree drill, but you can get very stubby drill bits(1/2 inch in length). And their 90 drill has maybe a 1/2in head. So you can into extremely tight areas with a drill bit. Use them all the time on aircraft.
Love the videos Taylor, Always enjoy watching all the projects or whatever events you’re attending. Always a good time. An Thanks for all your hard work from getting shots, editing, and all the physical labor that goes into it. The world would be a little different in a way, without you doing what you do.
When making cardboard templates, if you plan on doing a few more, buy a roll of Ramboard from home depot or lowes. It holds a shape and creases a lot better. Plus you can us it to protect areas inside the tub when you need to step on the paint
Super cool to see the rudimentary fabrication going on here, all the way down to plasma cutting the (I'm guessing 16GA) steel. Ps, die grinders are great for removing plasma slag
This is coming out sick i am a bit concerned on the gas tank and drive shaft positioning you might want to cover and make a drive shaft safety loop or plate it off. God forbid that drive shaft breaks you dont pierce the tank in mid driving.
hey dude - just so u know when your doing touch up work with 1 part paints- you can thin it out really good and run it through a pravail sprayer available at home depot- they throw way less overspray and you can get them in tight little spots - so just some 2" tape and you can touch up edges etc
You should be using your plasma more often man. After experimenting with different settings and tips you'll get comfortable enough to eventually run it without any hesitation. Love the videos by the way, good shit man.
Think I'd open that trans tunnel up under your shields. It's just extra metal under there an having an extra half inch when it comes time to pull that trans can be a knuckle saver. An get you a driveshaft loop doughnut an weld it in behind the quick change diff. That way you can reach thru an pull the gears but still have the strength you want across there.
Carful with the Exhaust routing, the heat will cook your gas and cause your fuel lines to vapor lock. Love watching the build, Good Luck!
@@eriklarson9137 calm down homie he’s just giving friendly advice
@@eriklarson9137 bro everyone forgets little things while building a car and sometimes comments like these have helped him to remember little things like this
I was thinking the same but also I would problem have some heat shield or even a piece of sheet metal separating the fuel cell and the diff just in case of a diff failure it goes into pieces it won't destroy the fuel cell... maybe not just seems kinda close. But definitely would not be great heat wise vapor locks do suck!
@@gwpentertainment9671 My first thought was the u joint coming apart by the fuel cell. I will admit however I don't know the construction specs of these fuel cells. I'm just an average guy with little experience in the world of race cars.
Vapor should go back to the tank in a return style system it shouldn’t be an issue.
You should put a heat shield for the gas tank from the exhaust.
Favorite series happening right now. So sick!
Can’t wait to see this thing on track! It’s going to be so sick! 🤙🔥
Track? It's Florida, it is a streetcar. LOL
Why does t-ray not have over one million subs? He deserves it!
I always think how cool it would be to spend a week hanging out watching you work Taylor. Your thought process and your simplistic and effective way you fabricate reminds me so much of my dad.
You're a very talented dood 👌
Loving the build! Its all going so smooth (hope I didn't jinx it!) Little tip - I find it waaay easier to knock the plasma slag off with an old chisel (doesn't have to be sharp) and a hammer, takes a couple of seconds and leaves a much cleaner finish than you would expect - better than trying to grind it all off for sure, give it a try!
I said the same thing haha should have known someone beat me to it XD
Cosign 💯, way better than a slag hammer or anything else I've used
agreed, we would stand it on end and tap the chisel with a hammer lightly down the edge and rotate, way more natural results than grind or sand imo
This work grate on 1/2” 😁
Man a hammer and chisel works great on that slag and does a super clean job, cars coming along great.
Taylor, first off you're an amazing mechanic and fabricator and such a knowledgeable dude, but second you are the only person I have ever heard in my entire life to say "close enough for government work" besides my father who was a mailman for 35 years lmaoo. Keep it up man
I'm almost 30, but grew up with a bunch of old guys. Close enough for govt was heard everyyyyy day lol.
Good enough for government work is my favorite saying haha
I like to switch it up with "close enough for the kinda girls I date" when the old lady is around. Sometimes it gets me hit.
Use a cold chisle (3" Mason chisle works good) or a old file to knock off the slag off and save your belts for your sander
Favorite series on RUclips at the moment! Thanks for sharing with us!
Absolutely 🤘🤘🤘
I neeeeeeed a ride!!!!
Use the drill with the rivet tool with a clutch setting, not the drill setting and low speed. Makes it MUCH nicer
Where do you get that tool? I want one.
@@michaelpage6164 I've gotten a few on ebay. There's a handful of styles and brands. The style I have, has a handle off of the side of it.
@@Axial32 and they’re pretty good quality? I’d be using it for work, doing dealer installed accessories that require rivet nuts.
@@michaelpage6164 the ones I have are
I noticed Kevin from KSR Performance & Fabrication gave your Corvette a mention in his latest ("The Destroyed " C5 Corvette Roll Cage Project Begins!!) video Taylor you are getting some praise from your peers 😁
It's good to see you have the right people appreciating your work
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Great build coming along. FYI put a piece of copper behind the big gaps to weld them.
I was a press operator for years and learned a few tricks to correcting a bend that went over what you needed.
One of the best ones is to flip the piece over and press the brake back out. Put the top dye right on the apex of the bend. Slowly press until you get the desired angle.
Next best is hit the outside of the bend with a dead blow hammer along the apex until you get the desired angle.
Is the bottom of the fuel cell in range of an exploded U-joint on the driveshaft? Seems like it would be the first thing that parts would hit.
That was exactly what i thought as i saw the End of the differential Open Directly under the fuel Tank… really Should Throw a Thick Loop or plate there to protect the fuel cell
Thought the same, maybe he'll build a shield, tech may require one.
@@BOOT FD only requires a driveshaft loop at the front.
@@ChewieBonez should also build things for overall safety, not just to tick the box for a comp....
Love that sterring column mount, very much derived from a mountain bike stem!
Should've added some cupholders to that trans tunnel 😁
I really like seeing this kind of small scale fabrication work too. That trans tunnel cover turned out nice!
For the slag: Angle Grinder, Flap Disc, run the disc at 45° on the edges, light drags.
try using a piece of aluminum or brass for a backing when you have a gap that you need to weld up. Also when welding aluminum, brass or stainless steel works for it.
Just a tip
I concur
Thick alum
Killer video. I keep learning about these chassis for mine. One thing I would build a barrier between the fuel cell and driveshaft/exhaust. You break a driveshaft it will take out that fuel cell and hit exhaust. Just looking out. Fuel fire ain’t no joke.
Easily my favorite build on RUclips right now. Can’t wait for this to be finished and winning comps. Awesome job, keep the great content coming!
when you cut with the plasma you can knock the slag off with a small hammer just gentle taps on the slag at the edge of the steel that will take it off quick and easy cuts clean up almost out of the picture! it's my go to on plasma cut peices every time! love the build progress going to be one sick car for sure!
That’s heckin nice work
Love your fab videos and you basically demystify the process. Your stuff is not super complicated and over the top, but it's still high quality and something to be proud of. Beyond that, it feels like something I could get my way through given the space and time.
Hey Taylor, I work in a fab shop that uses a cnc plasma all the time. The way I have found to relatively easily remove slag from steel is with a chipping hammer or sharpened wide cold chisel/wood chisel. Please give it a try. I hope that makes your life easier! P.S. I love the color theme of your new drift rig.
I love that its a drift car that's gonna end up getting beaten on a track and yet you still built it like its gonna make it to Sema now you can recognize a real car guy.
I love your content keep it up !
This through attention to detail is going to look good and drive good. Awesome Taylor. 👍🏽😎
Hey Taylor, awesome build and I love the color combo. I cut a lot of materials with a plasma and I’ve found a knotted wire wheel works best for removing the slag. Can’t wait to see the end of this one!
Couple plasma cutting tips;
Use a thicker burn bar, I like 1/2 flat bar because 1/4” and 3/8” will sometimes hit the taper on my plasma cutters shield
If you’re very vertical and at a decent speed you should have little to no slag
As several people mentioned, breaking the slag off with a cold chisel is way faster and cleaner than sanding
And when a cold chisel doesn’t work, clamp the piece and use a 4 1/2” grinder. The sander is slower, takes more consumables, and while you’re comfortable with it, my personal opinion (with a fab shop of equipment to use) it isn’t the right tool for the job
All in all great video and I really like how your fab skills are coming! I think it’s interesting that you don’t like learning from RUclips or other people who have done the work professionally, but you should definitely be proud of your progress. Every video I want to send you a couple tools (like a bevel and contour gauge), but I do feel like there’s some things you do better than I do, and I’ve been a fab shop supervisor for years. So given some time, I bet you’ll progress even further than I can imagine!
Roll that shift boot in on itself like when you roll off a sock. 👌🏻
Couple questions, are you gonna add any shielding to the bottom of the fuel cell in case of a drive shaft breaking? Or to keep the exhaust from heating the fuel?
literally the only yt series im hyped for right now
Looking great t-ray. You're fabrication skills are off the chain man.
Hey man pro tip really easy way to knock slag off from the plasma is to slide it down aggressively against a hardened surface (the belt sander will work perfect) comes off with little to no force all you have to to is follow Thu with the motion it definitely changed my life I use the base to my drill press makes working with the plasma a lot more enjoyable
If you're looking for factory hard lines I cannot recommend enough a company called classic tube. They're about a half hour from me but they do pre bent stainless line that will bolt right in to factory positions. Their customer service is amazing and for pre bent lines I don't think you can beat them
Any idea if they do imports or strictly US?
for CAD you can wet cardboard to help it keep bends with a slightly damp sponge
Can't wait to see you out at the FF taking home the big bucks!!!
I wanna say they have a spray that you can spray onto your sheet metal and should help the slag come right off. Almost like a rain x for welding 🤙🏼
Love your corvette build, after I'm done with my GMC Sonoma turbo LS swap, a corvette will be next. I am watching your build to definitely borrow some pointers. Keep up the build.
Looks great. I'd weld the under side of the trans tunnel piece so you don't have any problems when you grind it smooth
So ready to see and hear this thing fire up !!!
Angle grinder and a vice for the slag. Quick work.
Really loving these build videos!!
I Can't wait to see you firing this thing into its first corner, its all coming together so quickly now
When you are using that rivnut tool on the drill, turn the clutch down on it so once it hits that pressure the clutch will disengage and stop spinning the drill so that you wont ever spin the rivnut in the hole. Im sure you will have to mess around to figure out which number you need to be on with the clutch adjustment. But it will Really make a difference. It looked like your drill had a clutch adjustment so figured id recommend it.
That thing has been making alota quick progress , can't wait to see the cefiro running again too
An angle grinder with a medium flap disc works best for getting the slag off. Also, a chipping hammer for stick welding works wonders to. Just slide the hammer into the edge, and it'll knock it right off.
cant wait to see this thing finished and ripping!!!!
Taylor, to get the slag off after plasma cutting use a knotted wire wheel and it will come right off, belt sanding like that doesn't work well and just melts it down and makes more work.
The plasma slag/dross is super easy to pull off with pliers/channel locks. it breaks off in good size chunks. Try it sometime!
A pair of channel locks.. grab the slag and snap it off. Works great. Very little grinding after.
Hey, just a tip on cleaning up the plasma cut parts. Try a cupped wire wheel on and angle grinder, you have to hold the grinder at a 45° to the work piece but it usually comes right off.
Those pieces I could easily print with my 3D-printer and seems appropriate since they probably doesn't have to withstand more than 80° C (176° F). That's about the limit of certain filament you can print with common FDM-printers like ASA or PETG Carbon.
I'd rather not print those panels. While probably fine for a normal use case, those pieces also need to seal in case of a fire in/near the engine bay
@@TheCastorPlays plastic trans tunnel?! Lmao
You should pneumatic riv nut tool, I use it all the time at work, comes in 1/4in (3/8 hole) and 5/16 (1/2in hole). You can feel how tight it gets through the trigger
So excited to see this thing rolling. Definitely coming to at least 1 round of Klutch Kickers this year to see it in person.
Get your self a step drill bit. Well worth having in the tool box!
just make the first test drive in my c6 drift car ive been wrenching on for 2 months. Its so rowdy definitely the coolers car ive ever had. cant wait to tandem with yours some day.
Great video, you asked in the past about doing voice over in your video. You handled it very well and I found it quite enjoyable! Keep up the great work!
Get you the stiffest like drywall scraper you can find and works great for the slag.
Going hard mate . looking good can't wait hardly for it to hit the circuit..
Carbon fiber molded cover with 1/4 turn fasteners for the trans tunnel would be pretty dope.
What about a driveshaft loop or a steel plate to protect the bottom of the cell if the u-joint goes, that way the shaft won't smack the cell.
On sheet metal you can put any dissimilar metal behind it to help soak the heat and when you have big gaps you can use it to prevent you from melting into the inside a ton like hold the weld up for steel and stainless you can use aluminum or copper I keep all kinds of machine shop scraps from 1x1” solid blocks down to 1/8” for aluminum you can use steel not ideal but works if ya clean the mill scale off stainless or coppper. Simple trick to help when things don’t go as smooth as they should or they have specific requirements that demand you use it works the same
With as much fab work you do yourself I’m surprised you haven’t invested in a box break
that looks cool i would extend the tunnel whole way back looks nice !
also nice cover for the shifter !
just wondering if your ujoint comes apart will get into the bottom of your fuel tank beings that its right under it?
That’s cool to watch it’s really artwork. I feel like you should round off the corners hanging off the side could end up catching you leg on the corner
You should of painted that tub and frame with "steel-it" paint... it's weldable paint, you can weld directly over the paint and paint over it again... and the color is kinda nice and would of fit your theme although it would of been a bit darker. it's a game changer for project cars
Or just paint it when every chassis piece is done. Painting it before you work on it is just asking for it to get messed up. That tranny tunnel feels like it would've been better welded in.
@@sampic_ he said in a video before painting that the most efficient way of painting is building the whole thing un painted and then take it all apart and paint it all at once, but he doesn't have Time to do that because of the time crunch he is on...
Car is going to be DOPE!
This build is my favorite so far.
For the plasma cutting getting the slag off before you go at it with the grinder grab a hammer and tap down the cut edge and you can knock of a lot of the slag
I CANNOT wait to hear this thing screaming on my door 💜
Check out Pan American threaded drill bits. You’ll need a pneumatic 90 degree drill, but you can get very stubby drill bits(1/2 inch in length). And their 90 drill has maybe a 1/2in head. So you can into extremely tight areas with a drill bit. Use them all the time on aircraft.
this vid was a great display of his talent
damn
im geeked for this kk season
“It doesn’t have to be perfect” Makes it perfect anyways. 🤣👍🥃
I was going to comment something similar 🤣
Super excited for this thing man!
I'm a simple man,I see a taylor ray video I click immediately.keep up the awesome content man!!!
SHOUT OUT TO THE WHITE BOARD LIST !!!! LEGEND
Step bits! I cannot recommend them enough!
a coal chisel with a nice clean edge from the back side work wonders for cleaning off the spag mate
Love watching your build,so satisfying 👍
I expect to see a lot built corvettes goin this route in the future
Even the drag guys are starting to go down this route, cleetus is doing it to Leroy
Love the videos Taylor, Always enjoy watching all the projects or whatever events you’re attending. Always a good time. An Thanks for all your hard work from getting shots, editing, and all the physical labor that goes into it. The world would be a little different in a way, without you doing what you do.
Taylor I highly recommend Silicon Bronze filler rod on thin sheet metal.
That's some list! major props!
You're literally going to build an entire drift car from the chassis up in your house garage. That's pretty rad!
When making cardboard templates, if you plan on doing a few more, buy a roll of Ramboard from home depot or lowes. It holds a shape and creases a lot better.
Plus you can us it to protect areas inside the tub when you need to step on the paint
That’s what I was using.
@@Taylordrifts oh damn, I didn't see the markings. I guess it doesn't want to work for everything.
Love how meticulous you are with your builds car is looking great!
Super cool to see the rudimentary fabrication going on here, all the way down to plasma cutting the (I'm guessing 16GA) steel. Ps, die grinders are great for removing plasma slag
When you use the rivet tool on the drill use the clutch on the drill once you find the right one it’s easy as
Was just sitting here thinking it would be a great day if Taylor dropped a video. As it turns out it IS a great day!
This is coming out sick i am a bit concerned on the gas tank and drive shaft positioning you might want to cover and make a drive shaft safety loop or plate it off. God forbid that drive shaft breaks you dont pierce the tank in mid driving.
hey dude - just so u know when your doing touch up work with 1 part paints- you can thin it out really good and run it through a pravail sprayer available at home depot- they throw way less overspray and you can get them in tight little spots - so just some 2" tape and you can touch up edges etc
You should be using your plasma more often man. After experimenting with different settings and tips you'll get comfortable enough to eventually run it without any hesitation. Love the videos by the way, good shit man.
before painting your trans tunnel cover weld in a water bottle holder out of some pipe. Hydration is very important on hot summer days.
When doing "C.A.D." and you need it to stay shape little bit, you can use hot glue and pipe cleaner rods (the fuzzy bendy things).
Think I'd open that trans tunnel up under your shields. It's just extra metal under there an having an extra half inch when it comes time to pull that trans can be a knuckle saver. An get you a driveshaft loop doughnut an weld it in behind the quick change diff. That way you can reach thru an pull the gears but still have the strength you want across there.