How To Change Brake Fluid ALONE in 3 MINUTES
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Brake Fluid Change ALONE in 3 MINUTES and bleed brakes - life hack
Car: Ford Focus III 2012
Type of brakes: ATE single-piston
Type of fluid: DOT 4 Class 6
#brakefluid #howto
vacuum the tank out first, fill to the top with new fluid so you aren't drawing that old fluid into the system and only draw enough out to keep the reservoir from letting air in.
Bingo.
Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir first, then fill the reservoir up with new fluid. Then bleed the calipers.
Suck the fluid out of the reservoir first then put new fluid in the syringe and push the new fluid to the top. Air likes to rise so help it out. ATV, cycles and snowmobiles like it if you push the fluid up because of the small stroke on the master cylinder doesn't move much fluid. . Cars don't matter but I like to help the air go the right direction.
that's right. Regardless of how do you do it, taking the old fluid out of the tank and filling it with new fluid is the first step.
@@ImNotADeeJayu dint have to add clean fluid while u take dirty out right
@@williamrosenow6176 Seconded. I always do bottom up be it bikes or cars. Give a tappy-tap-tap to the caliper and lines while doing it to nudge those bubbles up the line. Also: axle stands!
For anyone watching this video - Please don't tighten your bleeder with a socket and ratchet... Hand tight with a wrench is plenty tight.
I sheered mine if this morning on 2008 Ford F-150. Was to be a simple fast day!… Nope!
Doesn’t matter what tool, only what torque. Of course the exception, never using an adjustable spammer!
I remember in the military I was trying to help a dude bleed his brakes. I sheered 2 fittings.
@@drjimjam1112
Exactly, but using an adjustable wrench is still a bad idea. Go ahead, strip one and see how long it takes.
1:52
Should have known something like this would happen when you started with the adjustable wrench.
Start at the wheel station furthermost from the brake fluid reservoir and finish at the closest.
Try to find Super Dot 4 or Dot 4 Super, It has the highest dry boiling temp.
Once you tighten the bleeder screws smear some axle grease over them to keep them from corroding, makes it easier to loosen in the future.
Never, repeat Never, repeat NEVER work on a car supported only by a jack! Jack stands are inexpensive and can save your life or limbs. Jacks are only for emergency tire changes and for use as the lifting tool to get your jack stands in place. NEVER perform any type of work like this with the car only supported by a jack!
He's using a scissor jack not hydraulic and he's not underneath the car. He's fine.
Nah it’s a risk I’m unwilling to take. Shrapnel is unpredictable and humans are delicate.
My good friend and neighbour klaus work on car, to fix brake. he lay under car with jack. my good friend hugo and i leave to go shopping and have dinner for the night. we return in morning to find klaus still under car, but with car jack far away. he aks us to lift car up. so he can return home and have dinner with his family.
@@billwilson3665Nope, that's where you're wrong. I made this same mistake and i was only swapping wheels on a car, which nearly costed me my fingers. I just replaced the wheel and was positioning it correctly on the axle and about to put the bolts in it when i noticed something on the entire car was "off" but couldn't figure out what exactly, (it was farely late at night) barely a few seconds later the scissor jack sheered away and the entire car slammed down, fixing the tire stuck into the wheelarch.....my hands where on that tire less then 5 seconds before. I learned an important lesson that day. Stay sharp, safety first at all times!
For God’s Sake ! Anytime that you are messing around with brake fluid be sure to wear your safety glasses! Many years ago I had one drop splash into my eye; it felt like a charcoal briquette was on my eye ! I had the unbelievable luck that there was a running hose in a tree well right next to where I was working in the driveway. I flushed that eye with for at least 15 minutes. That was over 45 years ago and the thought of it still makes me pucker.
LOL
Do you wear a complete rubberized suit with an airtank connected to it when you buy gas too?
@@GymChess Tell you what, put just one drop of brake fluid in one of your eyes and prove me wrong ?
@@jimseviltwin1 I'm reasonably confident that will hurt. I hate getting that nasty stuff on my hands. Its a shite fluid. All for the sake of no boiling of the liquid. I've had many things in my eyes including ultra violet light and carborundum from cutting and grinding discs, metal splinters, petrol and Fk knows what other shite. But of course any foreign body or substance is terribly uncomfortable in the peepers!
@@jimseviltwin1 Brake fluid doesn't belong in the human eye. It works best in brake lines.
Mostly covers what to do but remember a few things,
Firstly wear some PPE, not fun to get brake fluid in your eyes. Also don't rely on jack alone, use jack stands.
2. Start with the furthermost tyre from reservoir and work your way back.
3. Push back pistons on calipers to ensure all fluid is pushed back. Make sure reservoir doesnt overflow.
4. Suck out old fluid out of reservoir and fill with new fluid. Pull fluid through until new fluid hits the tube.
Don't overtighten the bleeder valves. Typically they should be tightened to 5 or 6 foot pounds. Snug and then a tiny bit more.
Way easier to just suck old fluid out of master cylinder reservoir, fill with new fluid and bleed brakes until clear...
That is exactly what I was thinking. This video is not a 3 minutes job 😂
tried sucking out the old fluid but it but it tastes really bad, had to stop and re-asses. any advice?
@@chrishayes5755 that is a good one and made me laugh. Seriously, and you know I have to say it, don’t do that.
@@chrishayes5755 use a turkey baster..
Long time ago, this was how I did such jobs, before I developed my knowledge, invested in decent tools and became a mechanic. That was years ago; now I just do my own work thankful that I save money. The lad got the job done, but needs to read up more! Can’t see an axle stand for starters? Otherwise, on my own car, I would have first cleaned and pre-lubed around the bleed nipples several days before doing the job. As others stated, I would suck out old fluid first especially if using pressure bleeding. I would also not have used a large adjustable spanner, or ratchet and socket to try and undo the bleed nipples; instead a short, 6-sided 10mm ring spanner gives good feel and is preferred. All that said, fair play, the lad is starting out; but lowered suspension, painted calipers and wheel spacers tells me he has a long road ahead within which to learn. A while back invested in a stand alone Sealey brake bleeding kit and drain bottle - great for home use where you can’t get close to an air line. Pressurising the lines is often the only way to get a good result - especially on clutch hydraulics.
Using an adjustable wrench on the bleeder valves???
Jesus….
Man's playing with fire lol
came here soon as i saw lmao so ridiculous, just grab a damn wrench
my friend klaus he use what you say 'air drill' with 300 psi to open brake breast nipple valve. klaus he say nipple disappear from brake and new caliper £184 from euro car part.
Basıt bir anahtar bile açabilir, hava rekorları gayet nazik, yuvayı zedelemeyin 😂
Hey, at least he reinstalled it with a ratchet and 330 ft/lbs of torque.
Brilliant way of changing brake fluid. Thank you for filming this work and posting it.
@ijaztariq2541If you don't know what you are doing with mechanical automotive work this improvement may be the next way to learn to bleed your brakes. For those of us who have bled brakes until we avoid doing it until unavoidable; this is going to make life easier. It is not dangerous unless the reservoir is allowed to empty without topping it up. The biggest bug bear of brakes (hydraulic) is the reservoir is too damn small for easy maintenance. Thus we check it and recheck it and recheck it....... When you are doing it on your own its tough. Not dangerous.
Maybe the title : HOW NOT TO TRY TO REPLACE BRAKE FLUID. Its nesessary, in order to avoid air in the brake lines to be continue pressure! Power bleeder is a special tool to make the job perfectly done by one person!
@ijaztariq2541Only??
I use a MityVac vacuum setup.. Which can draw a full 1 bar ( -15 PSI ) vacuum... I also temporarily clamp brake hose and take out the nipple and wind some PTFE tape on the thread, this stops air being sucked around the nipple thread and also stops the thread from seizing in the caliper... I also just snug up the nipple with a short ring spanner, especially in aluminium calipers which can strip easily, especially with PTFE tape on thread reducing the friction.... The beauty of the small MityVac catch bottle is that if you fill the master cylinder reservoir to very top of the fill opening before starting a new wheel, the MityVac bottle will fill up before the master cylinder reservoir gets too low and this prevents sucking air into system ( which is a world of pain with ABS ) to make sure if put some tape around mityvac bottle and stop sucking about 20mm before top of bottle and soon as fluid reaches the tape. As someone else said - vacuum out the master cylinder reservoir and fill with fresh fluid right to the very top before starting to bleed the system and you will be sucking fresh fluid into the system, not the old stale fluid in the reservoir. Another caution is that brake fluid will take the paint off your car, wash off any spills ASAP with a water and dish soap mixture.
I bought a 40-yr-old Ford pickup once. Did a brake job on it. Did not drive it much, and one year later a wheel cylinder that was one year old froze up. I know now it was due to moisture in the brake fluid. I should have replaced the fluid when I did the brake job. No telling how old it was. I know better now. Thanks for showing me how.
Always use a 6-point socket rather than a 12-point wrench on your bleeders, especially if they are rusted. You dont want to round these off. I also grease the threads before installing new ones, so there's no chance for water to get in there.
I saw another video where they used Teflon tape on the threads. It gets rid of those bubbles (coming around the threads) when you use vacuum to extract the fluid. Just be super careful to not stretch it over the end or it could clog the bleeder screw.
Tip: put some copper paste around the bleeding screw to prevent air being sucked in as seen in this video.
Never use copper with aluminum and breaking fluid, it's the shortest path to electrolytic corrosion
Copper+Aluminum= Corrosion disaster!
The ass wipe is for when you say, "Oh 💩!!! I forgot to fill the reservoir!"
I have used this method before but eventually purchased a "Power Bleeder" which pressurizes the reservoir and pushes the fresh fluid through the system. This way you avoid the issue with sucking air in via the treads of the open bleeder valve and overall it is less work. But it is an investment of around $100. There might be knock-offs for less but the original power bleeder is a very well made tool.
One downside is that the caps that come with it may not fit every vehicle. Also, some resevoirs are hidden and needs some disassemble of plastic covers around it, some even doesn't have space for the cap.
Other thing is if that the cap doesn't seal properly it will make a mess if you didn't see first time.
The vacuum bleeders are less messy and a one-size-fits-all tool. The syringe method in the video does pretty much the same job, only take longer.
A little piece of playdough should be enough to seal around the bleeder
You can bleed in reverse. Fill the syringe with new fluid, first draw any air out of the system with a little pull, and ensuring you hold the syringe correctly, upright, not like the guy in the video is doing. And push the new fluid from syringe back up into the reservoir. Obviously suck the reservoir dry first.
Syringe is a great tool as you can easily pull or push fluid. Pulling you may see false bubbles, but if you push to refill, that cannot happen. Plus you're always guaranteed the freshest fluid is in the caliper where most heat and issues will be.
@@brunocorrea6010yeh had to use a partial deflated tyre as full tyre pressure was too much and it blew out everywhere
I have a power bleeder for my mk4 GTI (now sold). the cap does not fit my 2019 WRX. I have to buy a new cap portion. Also, releasing the pressurized air is tough (mine doesn't have a bleed valve). 2nd, turning the cap when connected to the bottle kinks the hose. Third, the ABS is not cycled with just the bleeder alone and one must have a tool to cycle the ABS pump.....
@@blow0me Great advice. Thank u
I just used the pump/bottle method myself. A bit more work, but you'll also find out if you have any leaks (I did)
Remove old fluid from the brake reservoir and fill with new fluid first. Then while doing brake bleeding, gravity bleeding technique is the best since it is fast enough and there is no risk of bubbles or air entry and you have time to fill the brake reservoir during gravity bleeding.
The two person method is still the best way of getting all the old fluid and air out of the brake line system.
2 person method is complete garbage compared to using a power bleeder. 1 person, under an hr, zero mess.
Nah I don't want anyone in the car while it is suspended in the air
@@chiefdan07that is why you use Jack stands
You can save a lot of time by just leaving the wheels on. In the front you don't even need a jack, just turn the wheel. Most vehicles you don't need a jack for the rear either for that matter. For one person, I just have a one way valve on the end of the hose, or stick the open hose end in some fluid, pump brakes until clear, top up, move on.
Great comments so far, but this is just me ,dollar store hose to bleeders and use a 2 litter empty bottle of Coke or any soda bottle,or any container (this is for our friends that have never done a bleed job)
Turn the car on and open bleeders just a little pressure will build up into the system and start filling your reservoir (you can press on the brake pedal just a little to speed the process, dont leave the car unattended, let the car do the work for you.
Keep filling until you see clear fluid coming out of the hoses ,of course, it helps to open the furthest bleed screw to the closest.
No nos here: crescent Wrench ( there is a possibility that you may round up the nut ,making your work harder,and actually having to go to a real mechanic 😂)
Use the right tools! Your safety and well beeing are more important than trying to save 2 dollars(no jack stands)
Peace!😊
Maybe I missed something (human here)
When I pull the pads out and I need to push the piston back I attach a hose and crack the bleeders. I then use a clamp and wind the piston back …. Really bleeds the last bit of air out of the system. I usually flush and bleed the system before I change the pads. 👍👍👍
Pretty good video, thanks. But something tells me it was closer to taking 30 minutes instead of 3. ✌️
If you have anti-lock brakes, you now have air in the ABS system and will need to pay a shop to clear it. THIS IS THE WORST POST ON REPLACING BRAKE FLUID I HAVE EVER SEEN.
I’d have to agree with you. The dude used a ratchet for loosening and tightening the bleed-nipples too. Should use a crows-foot wrench or box-end wrench. Pretty easy to strip with a tug on the ratchet.
I agree. It is dangerous for this character to try to pass this off as a good method.
I bet in reality that took a lot longer than 3 minutes 😂
One Hour
nooooo..... one day ......
yep, this highly edited video is 3 minutes...budget 45 minutes per corner if one does not have a quick jack and must do each corner separately....personally, it would take me 3-4 hours on something this simple because nothing goes my way on car mx.
Cut the time by more than half by leaving the wheels on (why take them off ??). Turn the steering wheel to lock to do the front, might need a jack for rear only depending on vehicle height.
1:14. Remove the bleeder screw, clean the threads (I use a wire wheel), put a little anti-seize on it, reinstall. You can thank me if you never break one off!
There’s basically two circuits for the brakes. The front and the rear. Starting with the rear makes more sense due to the distance between the rear axle and the master cylinder. Each circuit is independent of the other after it leaves the master cylinder. Cars with 4 channel abs won’t tolerate air in the system, so have a helper whose only job is to make sure that the reservoir stays filled with new fluid throughout the brake flush operation.
Most cars have a diagonal split braking system where one of the circuits acts on the left front and right rear brake, and the other on right front and left rear.
Why are people saying this isn't a good method? If you make sure you don't run the reservoir dry like OP, then shoudn't sucking brake fluid through the bleeder screw be the same as pushing fluid through the bleeder screw? (via brake pumping, or reservoir pressurizing kit) ... Not to mention existing vacuum bleeders that run off shop compressors.
You are Genius. At last I have cheap, easy and rwliable solution to try it myself. Thank You for idea
Using a hose to guide the brake fluid down to a small container on the ground from the bleeder screw I do gravity bleeding. 👍🇺🇲☮🍺
Spot on, I’ve been solo gravity brake bleeding on all my cars for years - takes a little bit longer but does the job really well and also doesn’t put any pressure/strain on the master/slave cylinder seals which is especially important on older systems 👍
Great idea, you still need to pump a little to work out any air. Great job
❤ *Dang!* that brought back old memories of my Gramma's one car garage with a wood plank floor in Hollywood Ca. 👍😎✊
Bad a$$ trick! Love it, no need to pump the pedal. I have a shortcut myself but always had to pump the dumb pedal. You're also a brave man to work with that scissor lift!
80% of these comments are useless complaints about how he didn't show the reservoir getting drained and filled first, then claims that draining from the bleed valve is dangerous, with no explanation why.
Anyone new to working on or learning about mechanical work, PLEASE use this as a "What NOT to do".
If you EVER see someone using the emergency jack for MECHANICAL WORK, that is your red flag the person is 100% clueless & gives 0% of a sh*t. The adjustable wrench on the bleed screw was actually funny, yet painful.
"Forgetting" to top off the reservoir let alone not knowing that old fluid is to be sucked out 1st & refilled with new so that old fluid is not flushed throughout the system is 100% amateur hour.
This is a BRAKING SYSTEM. There is NO margin for error, especially not with these basic mechanics 101 steps blatantly overlooked.
One small bump and that emergency jack is giving out and god forbid the car doesn't come falling on you lol
VERY SMART WAY TO DO,,,, SILENCE IS GOLD,,, 100 times better than chatty gabby....
Believe me it doesn’t take only 3 minutes using a jack takes something like 3 hours
OOOOO, YE
With as little as a jar and a hose, one person can do this in 20min. Leave the wheels on, and in many cases you won't even need a jack for the rear. 3hrs??
@@macfady2181 it was my first time. I did it in my small car, was a bit quick. But still took 2 hours. Thx for sharing. Maybe next time take me a little bit less.
We've used the reverse bleed method for decades with a 2 syringes.
This method trumps every other method.
One handles the dirty fluid the 2nd fills the system via the bleed nipples.
No need for 2nd person, no need to pump the pedal.
No need for vacuum filling
No need for pressure filling
Air bubbles want to rise so let them.
They all end up at the top of the reservoir where you want them.
Very quick method
Only tools required are bleed spanner and two 100ml syringes.
Try it you will be amazed !
Do you know when you've injected enough into the caliper?
@@DeepakKumar-lv4te yes.
Keep watching the level in the master !
Also start with caliper pistons fully pressed in to expell all old fluid out of the caliper cylinder.
@@julesviolin I thought I read somewhere that with VWs pressure is needed to feed the system otherwise it won't bleed well.
You can buy fittings that are made for one-person bleeding that will automatically stop air from getting into the system. Draw as much fluid out of the master cylinder chambers as possible and refill with new fluid. Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, attach a hose, loosen it with a box end wrench, get in pump the brakes a couple of times and tighten. Repeat moving to the next brake farthest from the master cylinder topping off each time. Top off a final time. Dispose of the old brake fluid at a recycling center. If none available, pour into a container with cat litter and keeping away from animals and humans. It will evaporate.
I like the idea of the big syringe instead of having a second person pumping the brakes or even worse, taking it to the dealer and getting charged a lot and not getting the job done as it happens with most toyota dealers.
1’ hose on bleeder, into container. Pump a few. Done
Just get a helper to pump thr brakes and hold brakes and then release bleeder and repeat until no air bubbles
Clean job. Great! Where did you get so large syringe?
Nueik i vaistine ir paprasyk didelio svirksto 😃
From a massive heroin addict
Left over from the COVID vaccine 😀😀😀
The video with no words was funny along with methodes i dont use. With 2 people im done in the blink of an eye. I agree never only rely on a jack to support a vehicle. Thanks for your video. I was just looking at videos for now reason
That's actually a very good idea. This can be done for bleeding brakes as well.
Did you ever cycle the anti lock module? There is still old brake fluid in the valving and accumulator. So to do the job correctly it will take more than 3 minutes.
Um, where are the jack stands? And da hell is up with using an adjustable spanner on a bleeder screw.... I could feel that pain in my teeth.
Doing it this way could get air into your abs system. If that happens you will have to pay to get it corrected. Always suck out and fill with clean your reservoir first. Sucking dirty through is useless. Passenger rear, drivers rear,passenger front then drivers is the correct order. Top off reservoir after each.
If you are talking about sucking it dry, he made a mistake and even admitted as such 1:58. Otherwise I am not sure how this method would be dangerous. They sell tools specifically for one man brake fluid changes.
You should have started with the rear right, rear left, front right AND last, front left.
That’s debatable. Very debatable.
LF-RR-RF-RR will work just as well.
My car´s manual says: right rear, front left, left rear, right rear. I stick to what manual says, if it wasn´t in manual, I´d do what you say.
@@stfholdmm So you're leaving the right front out altogether 🤔🤷♂️
@@BubblesTheCat1 You have good eye for details, my mistake, I didn´t read my comment after typing it. It´s front right as the last wheel to bleed.
@@stfholdmm Yeah. Start furthest from the master cylinder and finish nearest the master😁❤️
So this was how to do it WRONG? Try to loosen the bleeder screw with an adjustable wrench, then suck air into the system...........
Do the same with your master and slave clutch cylinders if you have manual transmission
I did a different approach. I used a turkey bater and took out some fluid the put new in. Drive then repeat. After 3 or 4 times you will see the fluid clear out.
No, that method is just renewing the fluid, but not bleeding any air out.
So what about the fluid in the calipers and lines
@@stevesas632in most cases, only a flush is needed. There shouldn't be any air in the system to begin with. OP is referring to a basic maintenance flush/fluid change.
@@maxpain7197majority of the fluid resides in the master reservoir. During the period of driving around, the new fluid is being distributed into the lines & calipers rather quickly.
After repeating this as OP stated, the fluid in the master reservoir remains clear. Maybe not 100% perfect, but plenty good on a non neglected system. Many dealerships will only suck out old & refill with new without even touching anything else.
Great solution here many thanks
Maybe seek professional help. Don't follow this video if you need advice
Where can we get the syringe ,and all to do this ?
compress the piston out (not to reservoir) first to minimise amount of the fluid
Só não trocou o fluido de freio velho que está no módulo do abs, tem que usar um scanner para isso. Esse serviço ficou incompleto.
Don’t do it with abs
I make the same with long pipe and revers pedal. Air goes into pipe and I blocked pipe or not (end in fluid sucked fluid back). In some moment air was in pipe or bottle and goes new fluid.
*Were am I going to find a syringe ? There are no drug addicts in our area 😮*
Three minutes if you have someone pump the brakes. You wouldn’t need a syringe.
Get an eezie bleed. Much more reliable and less likely to get air in system. One man operated. I’ve used one for decades.
That wz a great techniq
an adjustable spanner ? really? on a bleeder nipple hooooo ...noooooo ring spanner mate
Do not use this method. Read the comments below.
So many problems with the process in this video.
I would press back the cylinder before suck out the fluid
First, the old oil is taken out of the brake oil container, new oil is poured in, and then the old oil is taken out and oil is always added to the container, so that no air enters the system, do not do what you saw in this video because it is dangerous.
This video should be titled " how not to change your break fluid by yourself ".. good effort though...
may i ask why?* cuz he dont vaccum top first?*
You start always from from reer right after reer left after frontleft and right
Huh. I didn’t know you could do this.
It didn't look that bad to me. Did you test it before changing?
Donde compraste la jeringa para extraer el aceite de freno
Se llama jeringa de Toomey. Se compra en farmacias.
So there is no need to pump up the brakes? Just vacuum with the syringe till there are no visible air bubbles?
It’s actually better to have a partner. It eliminates the possibility of air getting into the system through the bleeder valves. There’s also a one-way valve that allows you to pump the brakes but that won’t prevent air from entering from around the bleeder vales.
If you don''t have a partner then do it yourself in the shower😀😀😀 @@Zerpersande
Put some silicone grease around the threads of the bleed screw and bubbles won't enter then wipe off when done ! Simple as that or you could spend lots of money on bleed screws with orings on that will also seal it from air getting in @@Zerpersande
I have usa 2016 toyota Corolla, master cylinder at driver side ,abs module at passenger side,where to start bleed.tq
Start with the Right Rear (passenger rear), then Left Rear (driver Rear), then Right Front (passenger Front), and lastly Left Front (drivers Front).
I had to look away at the sight of the adjustable spanner.
That's genious!!
Where do i get the syringe I don't know any smackheads?
3:10 cheers mate
OMG, just GRAVITY BLEED the system....One man job
Please....no crescent wrenches on a bleeder...use only a six point wrench or socket.
No axle stand.
At least put wheel under the chassis.
Where is the syringe from? The kitchen!
that was fake 3 minutes
Look up gravity bleeding.
Hey what's your opinion on those wheel spacers?
3 minutes? ... game over at first caliper! 😂😂😂
How/Where did you get the HUGE Syringe?
Veterans will usually sell you one or agricultural supplier like atwoods or tractor supply co or gebos or Amazon 😊
Amazon has them!
1:37 nice bubble
GODDAMN these COMMENTS!... almost All nitpicking criticism! Sure, there's some good tips and alternative methods being mentioned, but how about the big picture here of a low-buck/low-tech method of one-man brake bleeding we're seeing here?
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO Bud! Alot of the tips in the comments are legit, and things you learn over time (just wish some of these points would have been made with far less negativity attached to them).
If I may give you a couple simple safety tips for jacking a car up; especially on a less-than-ideal surface (flat, clean concrete): have yourself a small piece of 3/4" plywood at least 12"×12" (but bigger would be better) to set your jack on... Gives it a more stable surface. Also, if you have no wood blocks, or jackstands, etc. to set the car back down on and you have to work with the jack: take your wheel and lay it next to the jack under the rocker panel just in case the Jack tips or gives. Not 100% ideal, but may save your ass; or at least buy you a few seconds to get out of the way.
vies ze tymto sposobom ti moze prisavat vzduch okolo kuzela odvzdusnovaku?
Always use a ring spanner not an open ended
That's right
Everyone who can use a adjustable wrench, automatically becomes an expert
We always use a ring spanner
ABS pump with old fluid has left the chat...
so what's the right order?
Why would you have to do it in 3min? The world isn't going anywhere in 4 or 5min.
GUYS .. Don't trust a guy supporting a car on a jack, let a lone a cesser jack! with no jack stands or at least a tire under the car. If he doesn't know these basics, you shouldn't trust whatever he says, even if it looks and sounds right.
I got the picture thanks 👍
You also forgot to mention to all the people out there with ABS brake systems that if you run the brake reservoir empty you will introduce air into the ABS unit and you will have a soft pedal and never be able to get a firm pedal again until you either do a full brake bleed of the entire system via a factory (at the dealer) or then go out and buy an aftermarket OBDII tool which will allow you to do one of these full system brake bleeds.....................So because you know nothing, you have passed on a complete waste of anybody's time doing this job this way, please do not enlighten the world with your lack of knowledge again................................FFS