I cannot tell you how valuable this video is....well actually I can. Local shops wanted $135 an hour to do this on my bike. I have most of the tools already, so you saved me a TON of money and helped me build confidence in working on my own Triumph. (2016 Street Triple)
One of the best Motorcycle DIY videos ever! I will do the 12k shim check myself on my ST 765RS, as I do not trust my local Triumph workshop after a couple of fuckups already. Shim kit ordered. This was exactly what I needed to know prior to the job! Thanx a bunch.
Here’s a tip- instead of removing the throttle bodies, you can undo the bracket that holds the throttle cables to the throttle bodies. 2 Phillips head screws. This will give you enough clearance to remove the cam cover. Bracket in frame at 18:55
Thanks a lot guy for this video ! I rebuild my street triple engine and i had a lot of question about the procedure for the wedging. I found the answers on your video ;) Thanks
I've been working on wrecked project Daytona and finally got it back together and it's been a fantastic bike, but also neglected. This video was truly well done and extremely helpful and I can't thank you enough! Did you notice any change with a new cam chain in the bike?
Glad you found it useful! Unfortunately the cam chain did not make a noticeable difference in terms of power, but it did give me some extra peace of mind, and that is invaluable if you ask me. 🙂
Awesome Video man my first time doing shim and bucket-style valves. All of mine were in spec for the first service interval despite several track days too.
awesome video! Keep up the good work! this will help me so much because I need to basicly do the exact same on my 06 daytona :) Thinking of also getting a manual cct because I dont really trust my 25k mile old mechanical cct... how often do you need to adjust the tension after install? did you have to adjust it early because of the new timing chain breaking in? what is the procedure to adjust it? as I didnt really find an official manual by ape... sorry for those many questions :D Greetings from Germany Felix
Thanks Felix! I highly recommend the APE CCT. It's very easy to adjust. With the engine at operating temp, I'll break the lock nut loose, but not adjust the plunger just yet. I'll then start the bike and apply some firm tightening pressure (clockwise) by hand with a thick glove on so as not to burn myself. The tensioner will slowly tighten. After it stops tightening by hand with firm pressure, I hold it in place, cut the engine, back it out 1/4 of a turn, and then tighten the lock nut. It did require a minor adjustment after the first weekend with the new chain, but it wasn't too loose that it wouldn't have been ok for another weekend or two. I'd recommend checking it every 3k miles with a mix of street and track use.
Hi, great video! I have a STR3 and I’m at the point where I’m about to replace the cam chain. Mine is a little off the timing mark as well. Question is, did you use that Triumph tool to keep the TDC? I feel like you didn’t, since you were going to adjust cams to get the dot and alignment maker exact. Any insight is appreciated. Cheers!
Thank you! I did not use the tool. I ended up removing the cams to fit the new chain, couldn't see another way around it. From there, it isn't too hard to get the timing marks lined up properly, just takes a little time, patience and finesse.
Hi,great video, I keep watching it over, just about to do 12000 mile service on my 2008 675 triple. When you replaced the cam chain, would it be possible to remove either of the camshaft sprockets ? I`ve not had a triumph engine stripped before but have Suzuki and Honda
Thanks! Do you mean would it be possible to remove the camshaft sprockets in order to get the chain off without having to remove the cam holder? My concern there would be the cams jumping time with no resistance against them, so I wouldn't recommend doing it that way.
Great video, Chad. Very helpful. You're a man of many talents! I scooped a high(ish) mileage Street 675 R I'll need to do this on. Thanks for posting the vid!
Hi i have a question I hope you can answer please? I'm currently rebuilding my engine as my manual cam chain tensioner backed itself out and through all my timing out. I've decided to rebuild my engine and it's all going well so far! I have no idea what position each shim was in as I accidentally made the mistake of turning over the unit and they all fell out.... Stupid I know. As I don't know what was where, when I come to put it back together will I have to put everything back together just to check the clearances that will no doubt be out as I don't know which one went where. I don't want to have to put it all back together just to have to tear it apart again to change the shims. Didn't think of checking anything before taking it apart. It's my first time doing this as you can probably tell
Hi there! Kudos to you for taking on that job yourself. Unfortunately, if you did not keep track of where each shim was, I think the best thing you can do is exactly what you said. Throw it all back together, take measurements, then disassemble and move shims around as needed. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it's the only way you'll be able to determine what needs to go where :/
@@hiimchad thanks, it all seems relatively straight forward until it gets to the shims so hopefully it works out. Thanks for getting back to me really appreciate it videos like the ones you've made make things so much easier I learnt so much from it. The tolerances on both exhaust and I take would be the same regardless of the milage that the bike has done correct? I've got a Haynes manual on the way anyway but in the meantime I'm trying to get as much knowledge in my head as possible 😂
Thank you!! This will help me so much. Unfortunately I was riding my 2013 675r and the timing chain came off while riding, I have not checked the damage yet but don't know where to start... removing the cam and replacing the chain? Rechecking valves and timing?
My pleasure! Sorry to hear about your bike. If I were in your situation, I would be pulling the cylinder head off to ensure the pistons and valves did not contact each other and cause serious damage. That said, if no damage was done, installing a new chain and ensuring everything is properly timed would get it running again. But, you could cause more damage if say a valve was bent or hit a piston. It would be a shame to get it down to the valves only to reassemble and find it is blown.
@@hiimchad Thanks! yeah I am really bummed out and am considering just ordering a new engine, I have little experience diving this deep into engine work and don't really want to drop $$$$ on a shop to do it just to tell me it's blown as well. Really torn right now
Hi, I've a 2015 street triple 675, with the timing set correctly as per serving manual vehicle won't start it's creating a back pressure which is getting released from throttle body. Kindly suggest
Hey man! Appreciate this tutorial 🙌 just one question, do you find necessary to loosen the cam sprocket screws at all and if so did you have to replace them? Thanks
Glad you found it helpful, Jorge! There is no need to touch the bolts that secure the cam gears to the camshafts. I definitely wouldn't touch them, as bolting them back on incorrectly will alter your timing and potentially cause issues.
I have the 675 Daytona r how hard is it to put the manual in and how do you adjust the manual because I’m thinking about replacing the hydraulic or should I leave the hydraulic and if I’m not racing
Very beautiful video! I haven't understood only if i can remove the chain without move the cams. I'll see another time, my english Is a Little bit bad :-) Thank you!
Thank you! I tried to remove the chain without pulling the cams and couldn't figure it out. I don't think it's possible, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong! Thanks for watching 🙂✌️
I'm not sure. I run Redline Super Cool in my bike, which does not have antifreeze, but I also change it often and don't keep it in an area where it's at risk of freezing. I would recommend sticking to the manufacturer recommended coolant.
How's it going man, I think we have the same engine but less 15cc, it's a 2018 street triple 660s but yea I got it all back, the valve cover and all but for some reason the o ring on the cam timing tension decided to split, I took it off and can I just put it back on?
Hello there, Question: I have a '20 765 Daytona (the Moto 2 ed.) ~2000 miles so far. Bought new in 2021. Was doing routine maintenance, and replacement air filter when I noticed throttle bodies with excessive oily/gasoline buildup. removed throttle body and cleaned. Injectors seem fine too. I looked into the intake valves and saw crazy amount of carbon buildup, like 25k miles stuff. never had a triumph before so I don't know... Any idea what's causing this? Have you seen this before? this bike is almost identical to the D 675 and the street triple rs. I suspect the charcoal canister for emissions is the culprit.
I have seen a bit of oil in the airbox each time I have serviced it but never more than expected. This bike still has all the emissions equipment and the crankcase breather in place as well. My TBs and intake valves/ports have always been spotless. The build up is either from the fuel you've been running, or an issue with the crankcase breather. I have had great experiences over the years running Shell's V-Power+ (91/Premium here in CA). I disassembled my 2006 D675's engine at 36k miles after running basically nothing but Shell for the 16k miles I had ridden and the intake valves and ports were spotless as well.
@@hiimchad Hey Thnx for the reply. Yep I've been using Shell premium and also my local Costco premium (maybe not good?) I got a few feedback and yea most people agree it may be some crankcase breather issue. Matt from YT(@dirtygarageguy) said the same thing, and even said check oil level and type. If that's the case Dealer mechs dropped the ball when they did service. It's going to be hell to clean those valves. I really don't want to take the head apart.
@@UNDOSOENGINEERING if the dealer overfilled the oil that could explain it. My understanding is that if these engines have too much oil, much of the extra oil eventually winds up in the airbox. If you can determine the cause and the bike is running fine I wouldn’t worry too much about the build up. If you can resolve the issue causing it and continue to run a quality fuel (I can’t speak to Costco, so wouldn’t recommend anything but VPower as that is the only fuel I have significant experience with) it will eventually break down. Alternatively, you could look into a walnut decarb. It’s a regular service for direct injection engines like the FSI and TFSI engines produced by Audi. That service is performed with only the intake manifold or supercharger removed. Not sure exactly how it is done, but I don’t see why it couldn’t be done on a bike.
Yes unfortunately the 675 was the last engine before they switched from Multi Port Fuel Injection to Direct Injection which is what causes the carbon on the new 765’s intake system. There is no fuel washing down the intake anymore.
@@trex5397 you likely already got your problem fixed but it's possible that your oil dipstick O ring could be bad and that will allow excessive oil vapor getting pulled into the air box. Had this happen on an ATV before. New O ring and bobs your uncle
Sorry for the late reply on this, although it looks like you figured out a solution! But yes, the injectors and fuel rail will come out along with the throttle bodies. No need to remove them from the TBs.
Getting parts takes a little longer than, say, an R6, but not by much. Maybe an extra week or two worst case. I have a dealer I get my parts from that used to be down the street, which always made it easy. Regarding maintenance, it doesn't seem to be any different than my friends' R6s and ZX6Rs. I change the oil after every race weekend and cut the recommended maintenance intervals in at least half (I just did all the 12K-mile service items after 3k miles since I did it last) and it seems to be happy!
@@hiimchad Thanks appreciate the color, these are so well specd out of the box and appear to be easily serviced ie valve (thanks for the vid) Parts avail was the big question.
Hey man so I’ve been searching if it is the case but when reinstalling the cams and timing them correctly with the intake lobes on cyl 1 be touching the Buckets and when you torque everything back on the valves with be open just a tad
Hey Yasay! Hope you found the right answer already, but if I recall correctly, the cam lobes on cyl 1 (the leftmost cylinder closest to the stator) should be making some contact with both intake and exhaust buckets. It will look like they are pointed towards each other, but down slightly. That is top dead center (TDC). You can also double-check the timing marks on the cam gears, and be sure to triple check the timing mark on the crankshaft as I showed. The cam lobes should not be facing straight down, or perpendicular to the buckets, but they should be a bit past a 90-degree angle. I would recommend double-checking your shop manual. Hope all went well!
@@hiimchad yes thank you this video was so helpful while I was doing this job. I got everything timed out and she purring better than ever. I did end up having leftmost valves just a tad open with everything tightened down and idles perfect and bike runs mint Thank You!
Hey Sebastian! It depends on your level of experience. If I powered through it and didn't record anything, I'm confident I could the job with an adjustment in 6-8 hours, assuming I have all the tools, parts, and shims I need, but this was the 6th or 7th time I have done valves on a Daytona engine. I would budget at least two days if you haven't checked or adjusted valves before.
thx I might give mine a go. But with the clearance measurement, shouldn't you keep increasing feeler size until it doesn't fit to get the upper size, rather than just going by feel?
If the first feeler goes in easily, then yes, you want to keep going up until it doesn't slide in. The point I was trying to make is that if you have to force the gauge in, it's too thick. You should feel some resistance when inserting it, but it shouldn't get stuck. That's what I meant when I mentioned going by feel. Sorry if that wasn't clear. 😅
@@hiimchad Ok seems to make sense now, if there is a fair bit of resistance i guess that means its "maxed out at the gauge" Anyway in the process of doing mine now (and making a video about it)
@@sparkthego exactly. If it is hard to get it in the clearance, it gets stuck after it’s in there and/or is difficult remove, the gauge is too thick. How’s it going so far?
@@breaktherule758 a valve is considered to be tight when the clearance between the heel of the camshaft lobe when the valve is fully closed and the valve bucket is smaller than what is specified by the manufacturer.
Like it spins but isn't rotating the crank? If you removed the spark plugs already there shouldn't be much resistance as there is space for the air being compressed to escape.
I cannot tell you how valuable this video is....well actually I can. Local shops wanted $135 an hour to do this on my bike. I have most of the tools already, so you saved me a TON of money and helped me build confidence in working on my own Triumph. (2016 Street Triple)
Glad you were able to save some money! Great work doing it yourself 👏
One of the best Motorcycle DIY videos ever!
I will do the 12k shim check myself on my ST 765RS, as I do not trust my local Triumph workshop after a couple of fuckups already. Shim kit ordered. This was exactly what I needed to know prior to the job! Thanx a bunch.
My pleasure! Glad you found it helpful 🙂
Thanks for this insanely detailed and amazing video on the valve check service and cam chain replacement! Props to you man.
Appreciate that Anupam! Glad I can share my insights on jobs like this 🙂
Here’s a tip- instead of removing the throttle bodies, you can undo the bracket that holds the throttle cables to the throttle bodies. 2 Phillips head screws. This will give you enough clearance to remove the cam cover.
Bracket in frame at 18:55
Great tip! I never thought to try that. Should short track the process next time I'm in there. Thank you! 🙂
Thank you!
This method works just did it myself! thanks for the tip man.
Thanks a lot guy for this video ! I rebuild my street triple engine and i had a lot of question about the procedure for the wedging.
I found the answers on your video ;) Thanks
Helping a lot! I've come back to this for reference a few times thanks. Doing a slight rebuild on my '09 street triple.
I'm delighted to hear that! 🙂
How is the rebuild going? What else are you servicing?
I've been working on wrecked project Daytona and finally got it back together and it's been a fantastic bike, but also neglected. This video was truly well done and extremely helpful and I can't thank you enough! Did you notice any change with a new cam chain in the bike?
Glad you found it useful! Unfortunately the cam chain did not make a noticeable difference in terms of power, but it did give me some extra peace of mind, and that is invaluable if you ask me. 🙂
Great video, thanks for the explanations 👌
@@RomainNorberg my pleasure!
Awesome Video man my first time doing shim and bucket-style valves. All of mine were in spec for the first service interval despite several track days too.
That’s great! Do you also have a Daytona 675?
@@hiimchad No, street triple RX but close enough!
Thanks allot man! That was the best tutorial I could find so far and all I needed to get the job done! You're amazing.
awesome video!
Keep up the good work!
this will help me so much because I need to basicly do the exact same on my 06 daytona :)
Thinking of also getting a manual cct because I dont really trust my 25k mile old mechanical cct...
how often do you need to adjust the tension after install?
did you have to adjust it early because of the new timing chain breaking in?
what is the procedure to adjust it? as I didnt really find an official manual by ape...
sorry for those many questions :D
Greetings from Germany
Felix
Thanks Felix! I highly recommend the APE CCT. It's very easy to adjust. With the engine at operating temp, I'll break the lock nut loose, but not adjust the plunger just yet. I'll then start the bike and apply some firm tightening pressure (clockwise) by hand with a thick glove on so as not to burn myself. The tensioner will slowly tighten. After it stops tightening by hand with firm pressure, I hold it in place, cut the engine, back it out 1/4 of a turn, and then tighten the lock nut. It did require a minor adjustment after the first weekend with the new chain, but it wasn't too loose that it wouldn't have been ok for another weekend or two. I'd recommend checking it every 3k miles with a mix of street and track use.
Hi, great video! I have a STR3 and I’m at the point where I’m about to replace the cam chain. Mine is a little off the timing mark as well. Question is, did you use that Triumph tool to keep the TDC? I feel like you didn’t, since you were going to adjust cams to get the dot and alignment maker exact. Any insight is appreciated. Cheers!
Thank you! I did not use the tool. I ended up removing the cams to fit the new chain, couldn't see another way around it. From there, it isn't too hard to get the timing marks lined up properly, just takes a little time, patience and finesse.
Hi,great video, I keep watching it over, just about to do 12000 mile service on my 2008 675 triple. When you replaced the cam chain, would it be possible to remove either of the camshaft sprockets ? I`ve not had a triumph engine stripped before but have Suzuki and Honda
Thanks! Do you mean would it be possible to remove the camshaft sprockets in order to get the chain off without having to remove the cam holder? My concern there would be the cams jumping time with no resistance against them, so I wouldn't recommend doing it that way.
Great video, Chad. Very helpful. You're a man of many talents!
I scooped a high(ish) mileage Street 675 R I'll need to do this on. Thanks for posting the vid!
My pleasure, and thanks for the compliment! Hope you enjoy the Streety, they're great bikes too 🙂
Hi i have a question I hope you can answer please? I'm currently rebuilding my engine as my manual cam chain tensioner backed itself out and through all my timing out. I've decided to rebuild my engine and it's all going well so far! I have no idea what position each shim was in as I accidentally made the mistake of turning over the unit and they all fell out.... Stupid I know. As I don't know what was where, when I come to put it back together will I have to put everything back together just to check the clearances that will no doubt be out as I don't know which one went where. I don't want to have to put it all back together just to have to tear it apart again to change the shims. Didn't think of checking anything before taking it apart. It's my first time doing this as you can probably tell
Hi there! Kudos to you for taking on that job yourself. Unfortunately, if you did not keep track of where each shim was, I think the best thing you can do is exactly what you said. Throw it all back together, take measurements, then disassemble and move shims around as needed. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it's the only way you'll be able to determine what needs to go where :/
@@hiimchad thanks, it all seems relatively straight forward until it gets to the shims so hopefully it works out. Thanks for getting back to me really appreciate it videos like the ones you've made make things so much easier I learnt so much from it. The tolerances on both exhaust and I take would be the same regardless of the milage that the bike has done correct? I've got a Haynes manual on the way anyway but in the meantime I'm trying to get as much knowledge in my head as possible 😂
Thank you very much for your hard work, great information sharing.❤
Thanks for your comment! Glad you appreciated the video 🙂✌️
Thank you!! This will help me so much. Unfortunately I was riding my 2013 675r and the timing chain came off while riding, I have not checked the damage yet but don't know where to start... removing the cam and replacing the chain? Rechecking valves and timing?
My pleasure! Sorry to hear about your bike. If I were in your situation, I would be pulling the cylinder head off to ensure the pistons and valves did not contact each other and cause serious damage. That said, if no damage was done, installing a new chain and ensuring everything is properly timed would get it running again. But, you could cause more damage if say a valve was bent or hit a piston. It would be a shame to get it down to the valves only to reassemble and find it is blown.
@@hiimchad Thanks! yeah I am really bummed out and am considering just ordering a new engine, I have little experience diving this deep into engine work and don't really want to drop $$$$ on a shop to do it just to tell me it's blown as well. Really torn right now
How'd you know the chains came off bro
Hi,
I've a 2015 street triple 675, with the timing set correctly as per serving manual vehicle won't start it's creating a back pressure which is getting released from throttle body. Kindly suggest
Hi! Not sure I understand, are you hearing pressure release as you rotate the crank?
Hey man! Appreciate this tutorial 🙌 just one question, do you find necessary to loosen the cam sprocket screws at all and if so did you have to replace them? Thanks
Glad you found it helpful, Jorge! There is no need to touch the bolts that secure the cam gears to the camshafts. I definitely wouldn't touch them, as bolting them back on incorrectly will alter your timing and potentially cause issues.
Did you balance your throttle bodies after reinstall or not necessary?
@@nickowen8182 I did not but it would be a great time to if you think they're out of sync.
I have the 675 Daytona r how hard is it to put the manual in and how do you adjust the manual because I’m thinking about replacing the hydraulic or should I leave the hydraulic and if I’m not racing
Very beautiful video! I haven't understood only if i can remove the chain without move the cams. I'll see another time, my english Is a Little bit bad :-) Thank you!
Thank you! I tried to remove the chain without pulling the cams and couldn't figure it out. I don't think it's possible, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong! Thanks for watching 🙂✌️
I have a question, can I use blue antifreeze for a 2014 model 657 R?
I'm not sure. I run Redline Super Cool in my bike, which does not have antifreeze, but I also change it often and don't keep it in an area where it's at risk of freezing. I would recommend sticking to the manufacturer recommended coolant.
How's it going man, I think we have the same engine but less 15cc, it's a 2018 street triple 660s but yea I got it all back, the valve cover and all but for some reason the o ring on the cam timing tension decided to split, I took it off and can I just put it back on?
Do you mean the o-ring for the cam chain tensioner? If it split, you'll definitely need to replace it.
@@hiimchad yep got it replaced, i took it out and back on without applying tension on the chain, is that alright
Hi Chad did you notice any change in performance after the chain was replaced ?
Hi Martin! Nope, not a thing unfortunately 🙃
Hello there, Question: I have a '20 765 Daytona (the Moto 2 ed.) ~2000 miles so far. Bought new in 2021. Was doing routine maintenance, and replacement air filter when I noticed throttle bodies with excessive oily/gasoline buildup. removed throttle body and cleaned. Injectors seem fine too. I looked into the intake valves and saw crazy amount of carbon buildup, like 25k miles stuff. never had a triumph before so I don't know...
Any idea what's causing this? Have you seen this before? this bike is almost identical to the D 675 and the street triple rs. I suspect the charcoal canister for emissions is the culprit.
I have seen a bit of oil in the airbox each time I have serviced it but never more than expected. This bike still has all the emissions equipment and the crankcase breather in place as well. My TBs and intake valves/ports have always been spotless. The build up is either from the fuel you've been running, or an issue with the crankcase breather. I have had great experiences over the years running Shell's V-Power+ (91/Premium here in CA). I disassembled my 2006 D675's engine at 36k miles after running basically nothing but Shell for the 16k miles I had ridden and the intake valves and ports were spotless as well.
@@hiimchad Hey Thnx for the reply. Yep I've been using Shell premium and also my local Costco premium (maybe not good?) I got a few feedback and yea most people agree it may be some crankcase breather issue. Matt from YT(@dirtygarageguy) said the same thing, and even said check oil level and type. If that's the case Dealer mechs dropped the ball when they did service. It's going to be hell to clean those valves. I really don't want to take the head apart.
@@UNDOSOENGINEERING if the dealer overfilled the oil that could explain it. My understanding is that if these engines have too much oil, much of the extra oil eventually winds up in the airbox.
If you can determine the cause and the bike is running fine I wouldn’t worry too much about the build up. If you can resolve the issue causing it and continue to run a quality fuel (I can’t speak to Costco, so wouldn’t recommend anything but VPower as that is the only fuel I have significant experience with) it will eventually break down.
Alternatively, you could look into a walnut decarb. It’s a regular service for direct injection engines like the FSI and TFSI engines produced by Audi. That service is performed with only the intake manifold or supercharger removed. Not sure exactly how it is done, but I don’t see why it couldn’t be done on a bike.
Yes unfortunately the 675 was the last engine before they switched from Multi Port Fuel Injection to Direct Injection which is what causes the carbon on the new 765’s intake system. There is no fuel washing down the intake anymore.
@@trex5397 you likely already got your problem fixed but it's possible that your oil dipstick O ring could be bad and that will allow excessive oil vapor getting pulled into the air box. Had this happen on an ATV before. New O ring and bobs your uncle
Do the injectors and fuel rail come out with the throttle body as one piece?
Sorry for the late reply on this, although it looks like you figured out a solution! But yes, the injectors and fuel rail will come out along with the throttle bodies. No need to remove them from the TBs.
Did you notice any improvement on performance ?
Unfortunately, no 😅
How difficult (time to delivery of parts and expense) is it to source 675 parts and general running?
Getting parts takes a little longer than, say, an R6, but not by much. Maybe an extra week or two worst case. I have a dealer I get my parts from that used to be down the street, which always made it easy. Regarding maintenance, it doesn't seem to be any different than my friends' R6s and ZX6Rs. I change the oil after every race weekend and cut the recommended maintenance intervals in at least half (I just did all the 12K-mile service items after 3k miles since I did it last) and it seems to be happy!
@@hiimchad Thanks appreciate the color, these are so well specd out of the box and appear to be easily serviced ie valve (thanks for the vid) Parts avail was the big question.
Hey man so I’ve been searching if it is the case but when reinstalling the cams and timing them correctly with the intake lobes on cyl 1 be touching the Buckets and when you torque everything back on the valves with be open just a tad
Hey Yasay! Hope you found the right answer already, but if I recall correctly, the cam lobes on cyl 1 (the leftmost cylinder closest to the stator) should be making some contact with both intake and exhaust buckets. It will look like they are pointed towards each other, but down slightly. That is top dead center (TDC). You can also double-check the timing marks on the cam gears, and be sure to triple check the timing mark on the crankshaft as I showed. The cam lobes should not be facing straight down, or perpendicular to the buckets, but they should be a bit past a 90-degree angle. I would recommend double-checking your shop manual. Hope all went well!
@@hiimchad yes thank you this video was so helpful while I was doing this job. I got everything timed out and she purring better than ever. I did end up having leftmost valves just a tad open with everything tightened down and idles perfect and bike runs mint Thank You!
How log time takes the whole process of checking the valves?ty
Hey Sebastian! It depends on your level of experience. If I powered through it and didn't record anything, I'm confident I could the job with an adjustment in 6-8 hours, assuming I have all the tools, parts, and shims I need, but this was the 6th or 7th time I have done valves on a Daytona engine. I would budget at least two days if you haven't checked or adjusted valves before.
@@hiimchad hi, thanks, I never did a Daytona, I wanted to know because I need to make an offer to a client✌️Have a nice day.
thx I might give mine a go. But with the clearance measurement, shouldn't you keep increasing feeler size until it doesn't fit to get the upper size, rather than just going by feel?
If the first feeler goes in easily, then yes, you want to keep going up until it doesn't slide in. The point I was trying to make is that if you have to force the gauge in, it's too thick. You should feel some resistance when inserting it, but it shouldn't get stuck. That's what I meant when I mentioned going by feel. Sorry if that wasn't clear. 😅
@@hiimchad Ok seems to make sense now, if there is a fair bit of resistance i guess that means its "maxed out at the gauge" Anyway in the process of doing mine now (and making a video about it)
@@sparkthego exactly. If it is hard to get it in the clearance, it gets stuck after it’s in there and/or is difficult remove, the gauge is too thick. How’s it going so far?
Does it require any special tools or holders to set the timing?
Nope!
Very nice content
Thank you!
what means if valves are too tight ?
@@breaktherule758 a valve is considered to be tight when the clearance between the heel of the camshaft lobe when the valve is fully closed and the valve bucket is smaller than what is specified by the manufacturer.
Good music as well.
🎵🎶
Aprilia Tuono V4 12k valve check next👍
Unfortunately, I did not have the time for that and had it done at a shop. 🫠
what if that 24mm nut on the crank jus spins…
Like it spins but isn't rotating the crank? If you removed the spark plugs already there shouldn't be much resistance as there is space for the air being compressed to escape.
im gonna order a pizza for this one
Get the popcorn too 😂