Very instructive video. It's my first carb rebuild. My son purchased a Sierra Classic with a 327 engine and a 1406 carb installed. It would start with starter fluid and when engine was warmed up but would not start when cold... Just purchased the #1477 kit from the Edelbrock and it does not include the floats and the accelerator pump anymore...It seems they are being sold separately... Thank you for posting!
I do appreciate that. I just try to give all the info so the viewer doesn’t just know how, but WHY. Hoping it just makes folks better at what they are working on.
Need help with fuel coming up thur the needle and seat after shut down . Carburetor is a edelbrock avs2 659 Carburetor is on a 1987 chevy truck that was originally tbi , engine has been rebuilt hei distributor dual tank fuel pressure regulator 5.5 psi I did however have issues with fuel return being blocked and caused fuel pressure to go very high since then that's all be corrected any idea or help would be greatly appreciated maybe if possible I could speak to you on the phone thanks for any help Steve
I’d go right back to the regulator or the return line. Did you buy one of those adjustable pressure kits? I don’t recall what the stock pressure was on the tbi engines but it was way more than what a carburetor will handle.
Nobody does a actually legit truly informative video (like your videos) of what to do if the car runs and idles fine in park and neutral, but stalls after a few seconds in drive at idle. Specifically for that conduction. I’ve watched many videos by now that explain every carb or timing adjustment I could make. But they all talk about troubleshooting some other type of issue. Have narrowed down the issue but would be nice if maybe for someone else with same issue, can watch a video for that condition and not have to go searching symptoms or issues that they arnt really having just to get an idea of where to look or start. Some videos troubleshoot poor idle/ hesitation but it’s not the same thing. The condition that idles perfect , but when put in drive, the car really wants to stay running but reluctantly stalls after or goes really low rpm after few seconds. Simply raising idle rpm fixes it but that’s not resolving , say , maybe it’s stalling because of a rich or lean condition. Idk!? Who talks about it so I can know?
Sorry you’re disappointed. There are a number of things that you could try to cure that condition. Unfortunately they’re also in a number of other videos but watching those sounds like was the issue for you. Best of luck.
@@MuscleCarSolutions that’s probably why there’s not many videos on it specifically. Because like you mentioned, there’s a number of ways to cure it. Thanks man. 💯 any input helps.
Hi, thanks for all the help I'm rebuilding a 1406 for my motor home, in th kit I have it has the spring loaded needles they say for off road applications, so I'm not sure which to use if I'm gonna be hitting a logging road if it's a big deal??? And how to adjust because the springs are so light on the needles that the float makes it way more difficult to get proper, I was thinking maybe run the solid needle to setup for the spring loaded ones, I'm not sure if you have a better way than I'm thinking, I appreciate all your vids and info thru my rebuild, thanks it's been great 👍👍
I have a dual quad set up and having an issue with the motor wanting to stall like it’s running out of fuel when taking a corner , I feel that the floats are to low and need adjustment would you agree ?
HI , Do you have to change the float levels at all when installing the offroad needle and seat kit from stock specs? Read on a forum someone put the first one at 3/8 instead 7/16.
I set the float heights, and the floats are resting on and hitting the float stopper. Aren't the floats only supposed to hit the stopper when fuel fills the bowls and the floats reach maximum height? I've heard of people grinding them down so they're not hitting the floats when setting float height .
I just got a elderbrock carburetor for my 69 pickup and it idles good it goes through the gears good except for when I'm going uphill climb it starts losing power & putters is that the float possibly? It's a manual choke so I'll pull out the choke when it starts acting up and it fixes the problem
Had my second stall in the same exact spot when braking hard from 65mph to make a 90 deg left turn. it just dies as soon as I start my turn. Going to check the floats this week. I assume the level is too high and it's spilling over the top of the bowls and flooding the motor. Everyone says buy a Holley.🙄
I have watched several of your videos, each with very good content. Question, my 1406 idle is acting up and down, being unstable, dropping from 800 rpm to 500-600. When I had to stop suddenly today on an incline, it dropped to shut off. Which adjustment of the floats am I dealing with? Thanks!
Well, there’s a few things that come to mind. How much of an incline? Was this driving on road or in an off road situation? I did a video on the latter if that’s your situation. If it’s on road, I’d keep it simple first. Make sure the floats are operating. Reset them. Check the needle and seats for garbage or blockage. Check filters. What is your regulator set to? Might make a slight adjustment there as well. Timing is the last thing to be aware of. Yes I know it might be a carb issue, but fuel and spark go together. Take the opportunity to verify.
@@MuscleCarSolutions The car is a '67 Vette, 327/350 plus w/CDI ignition, Unilite, headers, reworked headers, 3:36 /4-spd. It will break the tires loose at 20mph...plenty of power! No pinging, no hitching! The incline was about 5* at a stop sign on a paved street. Floats are operating, no trash found, needle and seat clean, filter clean and flowing. I do not use a regulator. Timing is 15* initial + 19* centrif. Today I pulled the top off and the floats were off in both settings. I reset height to 7/16 and drop to 15/16. Later today I'll do another road test and report back.
Update...as stated, I reset the floats. Did 32 miles today. Tried to recreate the issues I had previously under the conditions described and then some...NO problems reoccured it ran great. I''l do a fuel milage test this week. I'm claiming victory!
Good video. thank you. But I am puzzled by the height measurement vs the drop measurement.....once you adjust the float height just right when you then adjust the float drop it changes the 7/16" or 1/2" gap you adjusted first. I am thinking that float drop may not be required since the float will always hit the bottom of the carb float bowl before reaching the full drop when adjustment is made with the 2 halves separated.
I suppose it could but the height is set by tweaking the entire bracket with a little bend. The drop is a little tab on the back side that hits the needle body to limit the range of motion. You’re not wrong that float drop might not be as important. I did a funny video on that for a guy with the same type of question.
If a float is improperly set, does it overflow out of the small ports located on the rear of the secondaries? Sorry for the stupid question.. late model diesel specialist here, trying to fix my boat. lol
Pulled the carb last night, ordered a rebuild kit this morning and got it tore down, put it (mostly) together after work today. Float height on both sides was roughly 5/16 clearance.. if not worse. Float drop was almost 1.5ins on both sides. Passenger side fuel screw was out 3 turns. And overall the thing was nasty. Brought home my basic fuel pressure test kit.. 5-6psi. Hoping this wraps up my problems lol . Bank 2 was so flooded it was beginning to wash the carbon off the plugs.. can't believe the thing still hit on all 6. Anyways.. we will see this weekend. Thanks for this video man. I really appreciate it.@@MuscleCarSolutions
OK, a practical question that occurred to me today while I was looking at the AVS2 in my T bucket. Due to the angle of the frame, the engine actually sits down a little in the front. The result is that the front of the carb is lower than the rear. By my understanding, that means that the floats, set normally, will be too high in the front, due to the depth of the fuel at the front of the carb. What corrections (short of an angled spacer under the carb) can I or should I make?
Are you experiencing any starvation or flooding issues? If not I’d leave it. If you are then i suppose leveling it out would be a fix. Is that angle extreme?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I would guess it's down about 5 degrees in the front. The Moroso 65030 angled carb spacer would probably fix it, but I can't say that I'm actually experiencing any problems due to the angle.
@@mrblanche that’s good. I guess I’ll have to pay more attention to that as we go through the summer months and the street rods are out. If you’re not having issues, it must be happy!
I would like to see the effect of fuel pressure on the fuel level. I had one the accelerator pump wasn't filling due to low fuel level. This is the difference between the Holley and Edelbrock. Holley sets fuel level. Edelbrock sets float level.
Both accomplish the exact same thing. As soon as I can work out how to demonstrate fuel flow and pressure without it costing a fortune, you’ll see it right here.
Have you tried to adjust the driver side float to carry a little bit more fuel to see if it prevented the primary starve issue? Have you seen the problem lessened by using the dual fuel inlet (both pass. and driver side)? Thanks for making these Edel Carb videos. Very informative.
Yes you can carry just a touch more with a different float setting. I’d say the dual line can help, but in reality when I’ve tried that with folks who have noticed that issue, it still remains. But that’s under extremely aggressive cornering. Glad you’re enjoying the videos! I appreciate the comments. Thank you!
@@MuscleCarSolutions here's the last I'll say on the subject. In a forum, someone had written that an Edel. Tech had recommended blocking the channel that connects the two sides with a piece of vacuum hose. I wonder, as the fuel runs to one side, that it creeps through the channel to the other bowl.
I love your videos. I think the popularity of those fuel injection systems for old cars is going down. IMO, your videos will only get more traction . I almost bought one .
@MuscleCarSolutions True, there are positives with Fuel injection systems. For me, the negative outweigh the positive. There are so many issues that people have with them as well as the cost. When and if they eventually make them as reliable as carburetors , I'll be a buyer.
It can. Just have to go through the steps and figure out why. Check out my video on how to set idle mixture. Make sure your fuel pressure is between 4.5-6 psi. Make sure your transfer slots aren’t exposed. And yes set the floats and make sure the needle and seats are operating and in good condition.
when I looked at Edelbrock's instructions for the upper float bowl setting. the picture seemed to be instead of the curve apex but about one-half inch in. I think that your measurement is more intuitive.
I switched to the tip for two reasons. The dimple that’s mid float body is a bit subjective and I don’t think delivers very consistent results across everyone setting their float level. Does it really matter if it’s off a little? Not really. The other reason why I choose to use the end of the float is control the total amount of fuel in the carburetor based on todays ethanol blended fuels. Just my way of doing it. Following the Edelbrock instructions isn’t a bad thing.
You don’t explain exactly what the reference point is on the float body for the drop measurement. Is it at the furthest point away from the fulcrum pin, i.e. the opposite end of the float?
Absolutely 100%. Unless you picked it up at their location in Sanford NC (you can’t). After it gets shipped from there to their warehouse in MS, then freighted to whatever retailer you bought it from and then shipping it to you…yeah I’d verify the float settings. If you’ve ever seen how carriers handle any package, it’s easy to see why that float can get knocked out of adjustment. Take the five minutes to verify and reset if necessary.
Looking at the Edlebrock diagram was more useful to me, all that fiddling and "apex" jargon was confusing things unnecessarily imo. Shove the bit in there about 1/3 of the way in, let the float sit on it and you want zero clearance.
Hey MCS, l have a 355 with a Lunati solid lift cam w/ a .525/.550 lift, dur.@50 247/255, LSA/ICL 106/100. I’m running a Quick Fuel 650 double pumper and have 5-7 “ of vacuum. Can not get hardly any adjustment on the air adjustments. Anything below 1000 rpm it doesn’t like it. Do you have any advice on drilling the butterfly’s 3/32”. I’ve taken the carb off and transfer slots are just about totally exposed. Thanks for any help, from the Lowcountry of SC, Timmy
It’s one of the pitfalls of running such a large cam on a street engine. Your last option and only one at this point might be to drill the throttle plates. Start as small as you can and work your way up. Only problem is once you drill them… you can’t go back!
They aren’t nearly as complicated as the keyboard warriors make them out to be. They meter fuel. They do it very well if you put them in the right circumstances. Just like anything else. But it’s easier to blame an inanimate object than take responsibility for poor choices. Have fun with it! Let me know if you have any questions. I’m trying to finish building out the Edelbrock carburetor videos with topics that need a little more detail. Have a good one on accelerator pumps coming out tomorrow!
I’ve had it in a brought carburetor on my truck for a while. I’ve had problems with high RPM shifting into the next gear sputtering jumping five maybe it was timing. I’ve come the conclusion. It is my carburetor float adjustment. could this be the problem even checked plugs, plug wires, ignition systems, etc. etc. any help is appreciated
What makes you think it’s the floats? Is it a performer series or AVS carburetor? What have you done to try to cure it? What engine? What type modifications have you done (headers, cam specs, intake, higher CR)? What size carburetor?
650 ci on a 350 with a RV cam with stock manifolds wholly intact that I put a spread for adapter plate to meet up with the eddlebrook carb I’ve had that carburetor on a Chevelle years ago. Performed well with RPM performer intake have had a part to be cleaned. I believe the floats were misadjusted when I put it back together.
@chaddavidson63 I’m generally not picky on the lower HP stuff like this truck. Sometimes it comes back to bite me. Did this time. I have the cheap regulator I started with and the better one in the video description.
@@Burntoilcoffee go watch my video on Edelbrock Float Drop Test: Theory Busted. I think you’ll enjoy it based on your statement about the needle falling out.
Can you please clarify exactly on the float you are making your 15/16" drop measurement? The back end, the top edge (really bottom edge of the float), etc.. etc..? Maybe hold a pencil up to where your are reading the measurement... You never say where you are measuring the 15/16th float drop to on the float.
Okay video, but I have to say you don't clearly explain the purpose and importance of the float drop adjustment. Float drop dictates the travel of the needle valve from closed to full open. Not enough float drop = not enough needle valve travel. It's like opening the faucet only half-way or possibly less; the carburetor bowl may not refill fast enough during high demand, resulting in a lean mixture. If the float drop is excessive, the needle valve can travel so far that it may bind in its bore and fail to shut off, causing the carb to flood, and now you get to take the top off again to find your mistake. Hope this helps someone.
Doesn’t matter really. If I make a 13 minute long video, people complain it’s too long and I should get to the point. Make a 3 minute video and people complain there’s not enough info. I’m pretty good at ignoring it. But if you want to make a 30 minute video on setting floats, RUclips is a big place.
You never say where you are measuring the 15/16th float drop to on the float. I guess the end point on the float. Great video though. I need to pull my carb off and check as it seems to be loading up. Thanks
Dude thank god you made this video. I’m doing my first Edelbrock carb rebuild tonight and one float was like jammed into the air box
Good luck with your rebuild!
Love seeing comments like this. Can I ask you a question? Have you watched any more videos from Muscle Car Solutions (this channel)?
It’s been 15 years sense I’ve rebuilt a carb and your video was spot on ! Thank you!
Killer! Glad they were helpful!
Very instructive video. It's my first carb rebuild. My son purchased a Sierra Classic with a 327 engine and a 1406 carb installed. It would start with starter fluid and when engine was warmed up but would not start when cold...
Just purchased the #1477 kit from the Edelbrock and it does not include the floats and the accelerator pump anymore...It seems they are being sold separately... Thank you for posting!
One of the best videos I’ve seen! Well illustrated and explained. Thanks!!!
I really like the way you do your videos. Plenty of good info.
I do appreciate that. I just try to give all the info so the viewer doesn’t just know how, but WHY. Hoping it just makes folks better at what they are working on.
@@MuscleCarSolutions YOU DOING A GOOD JOB...
Need help with fuel coming up thur the needle and seat after shut down . Carburetor is a edelbrock avs2 659 Carburetor is on a 1987 chevy truck that was originally tbi , engine has been rebuilt hei distributor dual tank fuel pressure regulator 5.5 psi I did however have issues with fuel return being blocked and caused fuel pressure to go very high since then that's all be corrected any idea or help would be greatly appreciated maybe if possible I could speak to you on the phone thanks for any help Steve
I’d go right back to the regulator or the return line. Did you buy one of those adjustable pressure kits? I don’t recall what the stock pressure was on the tbi engines but it was way more than what a carburetor will handle.
Nobody does a actually legit truly informative video (like your videos) of what to do if the car runs and idles fine in park and neutral, but stalls after a few seconds in drive at idle. Specifically for that conduction. I’ve watched many videos by now that explain every carb or timing adjustment I could make. But they all talk about troubleshooting some other type of issue. Have narrowed down the issue but would be nice if maybe for someone else with same issue, can watch a video for that condition and not have to go searching symptoms or issues that they arnt really having just to get an idea of where to look or start. Some videos troubleshoot poor idle/ hesitation but it’s not the same thing. The condition that idles perfect , but when put in drive, the car really wants to stay running but reluctantly stalls after or goes really low rpm after few seconds. Simply raising idle rpm fixes it but that’s not resolving , say , maybe it’s stalling because of a rich or lean condition. Idk!? Who talks about it so I can know?
Sorry you’re disappointed. There are a number of things that you could try to cure that condition. Unfortunately they’re also in a number of other videos but watching those sounds like was the issue for you. Best of luck.
@@MuscleCarSolutions that’s probably why there’s not many videos on it specifically. Because like you mentioned, there’s a number of ways to cure it. Thanks man. 💯 any input helps.
I don’t have a 7/16 drill bit and my tool in the kit only specifies MM? Which side of the tool do I use
Hi, thanks for all the help I'm rebuilding a 1406 for my motor home, in th kit I have it has the spring loaded needles they say for off road applications, so I'm not sure which to use if I'm gonna be hitting a logging road if it's a big deal??? And how to adjust because the springs are so light on the needles that the float makes it way more difficult to get proper, I was thinking maybe run the solid needle to setup for the spring loaded ones, I'm not sure if you have a better way than I'm thinking, I appreciate all your vids and info thru my rebuild, thanks it's been great 👍👍
What Edelbrock rebuild kit did you purchase that has off road needle and seats?
I have a dual quad set up and having an issue with the motor wanting to stall like it’s running out of fuel when taking a corner , I feel that the floats are to low and need adjustment would you agree ?
HI , Do you have to change the float levels at all when installing the offroad needle and seat kit from stock specs? Read on a forum someone put the first one at 3/8 instead 7/16.
Depends. I generally set the floats with a 1/2" for an off road rig. They can adjust from there if needed.
I set the float heights, and the floats are resting on and hitting the float stopper. Aren't the floats only supposed to hit the stopper when fuel fills the bowls and the floats reach maximum height?
I've heard of people grinding them down so they're not hitting the floats when setting float height .
Great job on class today professor! 😁👍
ha! Thanks boss! Appreciate it.
great job of explaining thoroughly!!!
Which size drill bit? Are using for apex of float????
This sizes are in the video
I just got a elderbrock carburetor for my 69 pickup and it idles good it goes through the gears good except for when I'm going uphill climb it starts losing power & putters is that the float possibly?
It's a manual choke so I'll pull out the choke when it starts acting up and it fixes the problem
You pull the choke closed or open?
Thanks I just just got a new one out of box but it's flooding
@@JonOffgrid floats, fuel pressure and filters is what needs to be looked at. In that order.
Had my second stall in the same exact spot when braking hard from 65mph to make a 90 deg left turn. it just dies as soon as I start my turn. Going to check the floats this week. I assume the level is too high and it's spilling over the top of the bowls and flooding the motor. Everyone says buy a Holley.🙄
I have watched several of your videos, each with very good content. Question, my 1406 idle is acting up and down, being unstable, dropping from 800 rpm to 500-600. When I had to stop suddenly today on an incline, it dropped to shut off. Which adjustment of the floats am I dealing with? Thanks!
Well, there’s a few things that come to mind. How much of an incline? Was this driving on road or in an off road situation? I did a video on the latter if that’s your situation. If it’s on road, I’d keep it simple first. Make sure the floats are operating. Reset them. Check the needle and seats for garbage or blockage. Check filters. What is your regulator set to? Might make a slight adjustment there as well. Timing is the last thing to be aware of. Yes I know it might be a carb issue, but fuel and spark go together. Take the opportunity to verify.
@@MuscleCarSolutions The car is a '67 Vette, 327/350 plus w/CDI ignition, Unilite, headers, reworked headers, 3:36 /4-spd. It will break the tires loose at 20mph...plenty of power! No pinging, no hitching!
The incline was about 5* at a stop sign on a paved street. Floats are operating, no trash found, needle and seat clean, filter clean and flowing. I do not use a regulator. Timing is 15* initial + 19* centrif. Today I pulled the top off and the floats were off in both settings. I reset height to 7/16 and drop to 15/16. Later today I'll do another road test and report back.
Update...as stated, I reset the floats. Did 32 miles today. Tried to recreate the issues I had previously under the conditions described and then some...NO problems reoccured it ran great. I''l do a fuel milage test this week. I'm claiming victory!
Good video. thank you. But I am puzzled by the height measurement vs the drop measurement.....once you adjust the float height just right when you then adjust the float drop it changes the 7/16" or 1/2" gap you adjusted first. I am thinking that float drop may not be required since the float will always hit the bottom of the carb float bowl before reaching the full drop when adjustment is made with the 2 halves separated.
I suppose it could but the height is set by tweaking the entire bracket with a little bend. The drop is a little tab on the back side that hits the needle body to limit the range of motion. You’re not wrong that float drop might not be as important. I did a funny video on that for a guy with the same type of question.
VERY GOOD VIDEO MY BROTHER YOU WOULD BE A EXCELLENT INSTRUCTOR..LET ME KNOW WHEN YOUR CLASSES OPEN UP SO I CAN ENROLL....
You’re enrolled! Video classes are up and ready to teach! Live classes are open occasionally on the weekends!
If a float is improperly set, does it overflow out of the small ports located on the rear of the secondaries?
Sorry for the stupid question.. late model diesel specialist here, trying to fix my boat. lol
Sure. Or something blocking the needle and seat open. Or if it’s getting too much pressure. Could be a few things! Start digging. You’ll find it.
Pulled the carb last night, ordered a rebuild kit this morning and got it tore down, put it (mostly) together after work today. Float height on both sides was roughly 5/16 clearance.. if not worse. Float drop was almost 1.5ins on both sides. Passenger side fuel screw was out 3 turns.
And overall the thing was nasty. Brought home my basic fuel pressure test kit.. 5-6psi. Hoping this wraps up my problems lol .
Bank 2 was so flooded it was beginning to wash the carbon off the plugs.. can't believe the thing still hit on all 6.
Anyways.. we will see this weekend. Thanks for this video man. I really appreciate it.@@MuscleCarSolutions
If my fuel is draining back to tank after sitting for a few days. Would my issue be the float seat?
I have heard that is a leak where air is bleeding into your fuel line
OK, a practical question that occurred to me today while I was looking at the AVS2 in my T bucket. Due to the angle of the frame, the engine actually sits down a little in the front. The result is that the front of the carb is lower than the rear. By my understanding, that means that the floats, set normally, will be too high in the front, due to the depth of the fuel at the front of the carb. What corrections (short of an angled spacer under the carb) can I or should I make?
Are you experiencing any starvation or flooding issues? If not I’d leave it. If you are then i suppose leveling it out would be a fix. Is that angle extreme?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I would guess it's down about 5 degrees in the front. The Moroso 65030 angled carb spacer would probably fix it, but I can't say that I'm actually experiencing any problems due to the angle.
@@mrblanche that’s good. I guess I’ll have to pay more attention to that as we go through the summer months and the street rods are out. If you’re not having issues, it must be happy!
I would like to see the effect of fuel pressure on the fuel level. I had one the accelerator pump wasn't filling due to low fuel level. This is the difference between the Holley and Edelbrock. Holley sets fuel level. Edelbrock sets float level.
Both accomplish the exact same thing. As soon as I can work out how to demonstrate fuel flow and pressure without it costing a fortune, you’ll see it right here.
Have you tried to adjust the driver side float to carry a little bit more fuel to see if it prevented the primary starve issue? Have you seen the problem lessened by using the dual fuel inlet (both pass. and driver side)? Thanks for making these Edel Carb videos. Very informative.
Yes you can carry just a touch more with a different float setting. I’d say the dual line can help, but in reality when I’ve tried that with folks who have noticed that issue, it still remains. But that’s under extremely aggressive cornering. Glad you’re enjoying the videos! I appreciate the comments. Thank you!
Also checking out your channel. Subscribed!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm subscribed as well.
@@MuscleCarSolutions here's the last I'll say on the subject. In a forum, someone had written that an Edel. Tech had recommended blocking the channel that connects the two sides with a piece of vacuum hose. I wonder, as the fuel runs to one side, that it creeps through the channel to the other bowl.
I love your videos. I think the popularity of those fuel injection systems for old cars is going down. IMO, your videos will only get more traction .
I almost bought one .
That’s the beauty of building a car. There’s options out there for everything! Some want to use EFI, some carburetors. It’s all good! 👍
@MuscleCarSolutions True, there are positives with Fuel injection systems.
For me, the negative outweigh the positive. There are so many issues that people have with them as well as the cost.
When and if they eventually make them as reliable as carburetors , I'll be a buyer.
@@brigond1 don’t know. If you get the fuel system right, it’s impossible to get them wrong. Oddly enough, the same goes with a carburetor. 😉
MmI am running rich at idle.....does this apply?
It can. Just have to go through the steps and figure out why. Check out my video on how to set idle mixture. Make sure your fuel pressure is between 4.5-6 psi. Make sure your transfer slots aren’t exposed. And yes set the floats and make sure the needle and seats are operating and in good condition.
when I looked at Edelbrock's instructions for the upper float bowl setting. the picture seemed to be instead of the curve apex but about one-half inch in. I think that your measurement is more intuitive.
I switched to the tip for two reasons. The dimple that’s mid float body is a bit subjective and I don’t think delivers very consistent results across everyone setting their float level. Does it really matter if it’s off a little? Not really. The other reason why I choose to use the end of the float is control the total amount of fuel in the carburetor based on todays ethanol blended fuels. Just my way of doing it. Following the Edelbrock instructions isn’t a bad thing.
You don’t explain exactly what the reference point is on the float body for the drop measurement. Is it at the furthest point away from the fulcrum pin, i.e. the opposite end of the float?
Oops! You missed it. At the 5:19 mark tells where I take the measurement.
Do i have to do this on a new carb
Absolutely 100%. Have you seen how UPS treats packages? They get thrown around like Ace Ventura is your delivery guy. You’d better reset them.
@@MuscleCarSolutions even the ones in autozone?
@@toronjillo2 yes.
My carb is no getting fuel to the driver side why?
The transfer slot in the back blocked?
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks dirt dauber where in it runs like new after the kit.
Thank you. Needed this
Do you really need to do this to a brand new carb from factory?
Absolutely 100%. Unless you picked it up at their location in Sanford NC (you can’t). After it gets shipped from there to their warehouse in MS, then freighted to whatever retailer you bought it from and then shipping it to you…yeah I’d verify the float settings. If you’ve ever seen how carriers handle any package, it’s easy to see why that float can get knocked out of adjustment. Take the five minutes to verify and reset if necessary.
Looking at the Edlebrock diagram was more useful to me, all that fiddling and "apex" jargon was confusing things unnecessarily imo. Shove the bit in there about 1/3 of the way in, let the float sit on it and you want zero clearance.
Hey MCS, l have a 355 with a Lunati solid lift cam w/ a .525/.550 lift, dur.@50 247/255, LSA/ICL 106/100.
I’m running a Quick Fuel 650 double pumper and have 5-7 “ of vacuum.
Can not get hardly any adjustment on the air adjustments. Anything below 1000 rpm it doesn’t like it. Do you have any advice on drilling the butterfly’s 3/32”. I’ve taken the carb off and transfer slots are just about totally exposed.
Thanks for any help, from the Lowcountry of SC, Timmy
It’s one of the pitfalls of running such a large cam on a street engine. Your last option and only one at this point might be to drill the throttle plates. Start as small as you can and work your way up. Only problem is once you drill them… you can’t go back!
Appreciate your input, I really like your videos, thanks for getting back to me. God bless you and yours 🙏
@@timmycolson7403 very much appreciate that sir! Thank you! Best of luck with your tuning.
I have 2 1405’s and a 1407, I really like the edelbrocks so I’m going to play around with them, I think I’m going to start with the 1407 🤞
They aren’t nearly as complicated as the keyboard warriors make them out to be. They meter fuel. They do it very well if you put them in the right circumstances. Just like anything else. But it’s easier to blame an inanimate object than take responsibility for poor choices. Have fun with it! Let me know if you have any questions. I’m trying to finish building out the Edelbrock carburetor videos with topics that need a little more detail. Have a good one on accelerator pumps coming out tomorrow!
I’ve had it in a brought carburetor on my truck for a while. I’ve had problems with high RPM shifting into the next gear sputtering jumping five maybe it was timing. I’ve come the conclusion. It is my carburetor float adjustment. could this be the problem even checked plugs, plug wires, ignition systems, etc. etc. any help is appreciated
What makes you think it’s the floats? Is it a performer series or AVS carburetor? What have you done to try to cure it? What engine? What type modifications have you done (headers, cam specs, intake, higher CR)? What size carburetor?
650 ci on a 350 with a RV cam with stock manifolds wholly intact that I put a spread for adapter plate to meet up with the eddlebrook carb I’ve had that carburetor on a Chevelle years ago. Performed well with RPM performer intake have had a part to be cleaned. I believe the floats were misadjusted when I put it back together.
I got the engine from a friend. I’ve never had it opened. It’s supposedly has low miles on. It came out a wrecked truck.
Can I ask what brand do brand do you use for your fuel regulator and fuel regulator gauge?
@chaddavidson63 I’m generally not picky on the lower HP stuff like this truck. Sometimes it comes back to bite me. Did this time. I have the cheap regulator I started with and the better one in the video description.
Great Info!!
Thank you sir!
The tab is NOT to prevent excess fuel to flow
It is to make sure the needle can NOT fall out
@@Burntoilcoffee go watch my video on Edelbrock Float Drop Test: Theory Busted. I think you’ll enjoy it based on your statement about the needle falling out.
Thanks, great video!
Can you please clarify exactly on the float you are making your 15/16" drop measurement? The back end, the top edge (really bottom edge of the float), etc.. etc..? Maybe hold a pencil up to where your are reading the measurement... You never say where you are measuring the 15/16th float drop to on the float.
Tip of the float.
Okay video, but I have to say you don't clearly explain the purpose and importance of the float drop adjustment. Float drop dictates the travel of the needle valve from closed to full open. Not enough float drop = not enough needle valve travel. It's like opening the faucet only half-way or possibly less; the carburetor bowl may not refill fast enough during high demand, resulting in a lean mixture. If the float drop is excessive, the needle valve can travel so far that it may bind in its bore and fail to shut off, causing the carb to flood, and now you get to take the top off again to find your mistake. Hope this helps someone.
Doesn’t matter really. If I make a 13 minute long video, people complain it’s too long and I should get to the point. Make a 3 minute video and people complain there’s not enough info. I’m pretty good at ignoring it. But if you want to make a 30 minute video on setting floats, RUclips is a big place.
There ya go Brad. I answered your question in this weeks video. I think you’ll find the results enlightening.
I like your videos. Very helpful to me!
You never say where you are measuring the 15/16th float drop to on the float. I guess the end point on the float. Great video though. I need to pull my carb off and check as it seems to be loading up. Thanks
@@bradripley9859 it does, trying to fix this issue right now
I hate these floats. A holly style is a piece of cake compared to these.
Simple. - don’t need a video. Its covered in the book.
Yet here you are!
Too much repetition