How to remove old carpet in your staircase and replace it by beautiful wood stairs. For more information, tips and ideas, visit: www.soyourerenovating.com
The problem with this application is that the riser (counter stair) is too thick. So when you are done, you’ll actually have less tread than you did before to stand on. And will find it extremely awkward walking down these stairs. Just use a thin panel of wood on the riser. Gives you almost an inch back on the tread. Believe me that 3/4 inch addition of step makes all the difference.
This tutorial is the functional equivalent of a vehicle tune-up by illustrating someone opening the hood and closing it! Multiple steps and specifics have been left out. Before you spend $45 per tread/riser, you’d better get a tread angle scribe. I have yet to find stair treads that are square to the stringer skirt. Also, wear a mask so your not breathing in the debris embedded in the carpet during demo. Lastly, the video doesn’t demonstrate a finished polyurethaning step. Think twice about taking on this project if your experience is limited. It can quickly become very expensive!
You could sand the top tread nose, or do like I did and lay a new matching wood floor down over the old floor. For the risers, the gap between the stairs, I used 1/8" plywood cut to size after I cut off the old tread nose. The new stair cap was then cut to sit over the plywood.
Question: Why don't you Stain the wood BEFORE you put it on the stairs ... A lot easier and then you can Sand it and apply Poly when done. I do not understand why you would want to do all the hard work once it is on the stairs... Very Hard to twist and turn to get to the right angles ...
So if u have good connection u don’t need nails . I took out my old stairs so I have the the rail left I did a test and it fits nice . I’m afraid to use Nails because I want a clean look with no holes or visible puddy spots . Did anyone else try just liquid nails I was going to claim the risers for a day or so and leave something heavy on the step part ? Appreciate the help
How wide is this stair case? I need to add stairs to a bonus room/attic and want to go as wide as possible, but I'm looking for proven examples like this. thanks and best wishes
Ok so my only question is where the hell do you get the stairs with the rounded nose on them? I can't find anything like it, I can't seem to even find the half circle trim pieces like my current stairs use
@@flflores0 if you paid $50 a step, you got robbed. I did this a few years ago and paid about $15 for a 3 foot step, cut it down to proper size. And you do the riser first, then measure the stair cap and cut the width and depth.
Squeaking is caused by wood rubbing back and forth against a nail that has come loose over time. You are either nailing or screwing down what is left of the staircase to prevent the squeaking (in this case i recommend coarse thread screws so that there is less walking out over time)
The only issue is, he is cutting the existing bull nose from the treads, in order to lay new treads over top of old treads. So you basically have a tread on top of a tread! Even if the new tread is just 1/2 thick, you raise each step half an inch which makes the last step uneven which I believe is against code. Does anybody know if it's possible to remove a tread from a staircase, be left with just stringer and then add new threads to that? Right now I have unfinished stairs that are pine and I would stain them but a stain pine would look bad against my oak hardwood, so I would rather have oak treads than pine treads but don't know if I can switch out the treats to keep the height constant.
Cassius Kadesh I was thinking that. I am looking a video to see if I can just change the treads. Or fix the sides since there's little gaps between the wall and stairs. On to the next video lol
Yes, you can remove the pine treads and change them to oak. Depending if your stairs are shop build or site build. Either way it can be done. But it has been 2 years, mostly likely you already change them. If you send me your email I could show you how.
When your upgrading your home with new stairs and floors. The thickness of your Tread capps will actually compliment the thickness of your new floors. Doing both at the same time will consistently raise the height all around. New hardwood flooring :3/4", Solid Oak Tread Capps:1". The difference is faint.
If you do this, your stairs will be out of code. It's up to you whether that matters or not. Stair riser heights have a minimum, I believe, of 4.5 inches up to a maximum of 7.75 inches. However, the range from the largest height to the smallest height must not deviate any more than 0.375 inches. If you install new treads as suggested in this video, your top riser height will lose an inch, and the bottom riser right will gain an inch, resulting in a 2 inch range from the smallest to largest riser height, being completely out of code. That being said, this style of renovation on stairs is very common. In my house they are this way, as are some other houses I've seen. Many people don't want to risk damaging the stringer by removing steps. If you have what are called open stringers, you can slip a nail-cutting blade on a reciprocating saw, pry the steps up slightly to slip in the saw, sever the nails and remove the step. Where the above renovation becomes common are on closed stringers: where the step is not resting atop a stringer and nailed in, but is resting in a dado-cut slot on each stringer. They become "trapped" between the stringers and the only way to remove them is if you have access to the back of the stairs. If you rent your home, you may not want to do the renovations as above: the stairs being out of code opens you up to a great deal of liability if some sort of accident occurs on the stairs. Even if the accident had nothing to do with the step heights, you can still be liable! If it is your own home, obviously you proceed at your own risk, but the liability still exists if a guest is hurt. In my own personal experience with these stairs, it tends to be a non-issue as people naturally tend to exercise some slight caution on the first and last step of a staircase, but it only takes one accident for that to become a major issue.
This is one of the most unprofessional videos I've ever seen! 1) Never use nails to eliminate squicking - use screws instead; 2) There are no such thing as a single step - you assemble steps from hardwood planks; 3) Do not use measuring tape - use special tool called "stair jig tool" to capture the form of entire step which often is far from perfect rectangular shape; 4) what they call "counter step" is called "stair riser" and it has to be attached before the top step.
1) what you call "squicking" - is actually spelled 'squeaking'; 2) how in the world did anyone manage to build stairs for *hundreds* of years before your precious "stair jig tool" was ever invented???
@@PatrickWagz 2) ...and thousands and thousands years ago in stone age there was no tools at all besides a sharp rock. Should we expect a video coming out soon on how to build stairs with a sharp rock? What is your point?
Baba Yaga, based on your comments I am sure you haven't done any of these projects you just saw in the RUclips whatever this guy did is not wrong using screws or nails don't make a big difference as long as you use the right size and for the measuring stairs , stairs jig tool is not necessary why should he spend some extra money when he gets the job done correctly without the precious tools? And thirdly he did right when he installed the stairs treads first after that risers and it make sense because the small gaps between the treads and risers won't be notable
NEVER, NEVER nail down squeaky timbers, be they stairs or floors. Guaranteed to start squeaking again in less than a year. Use floorboard SCREWS. No squeaks and easy to remove if the boards ever need to be lifted in future. The correct screws cost around $10 for 200. Having now seen the whole video I suggest you look elsewhere for the correct way to this job.
Probably because he is staining. Most people use a 18 gauge nail gun and a lot 400 LP glue when doing stairs that will not carpeted. The more you know 😉
Хобби
The problem with this application is that the riser (counter stair) is too thick.
So when you are done, you’ll actually have less tread than you did before to stand on. And will find it extremely awkward walking down these stairs.
Just use a thin panel of wood on the riser. Gives you almost an inch back on the tread. Believe me that 3/4 inch addition of step makes all the difference.
Your right about that 💯
Thank you! EXACTLY what I'm looking for :)
super easy, thank you. I needed to se that.
This tutorial is the functional equivalent of a vehicle tune-up by illustrating someone opening the hood and closing it! Multiple steps and specifics have been left out. Before you spend $45 per tread/riser, you’d better get a tread angle scribe. I have yet to find stair treads that are square to the stringer skirt.
Also, wear a mask so your not breathing in the debris embedded in the carpet during demo.
Lastly, the video doesn’t demonstrate a finished polyurethaning step. Think twice about taking on this project if your experience is limited. It can quickly become very expensive!
This is no sh*&. I recently, breathed in a bunch of carpet dissentragrated dusk and what the.....coughing and sneezing for days!!! Not cool.
Looks good to me!
This is exactly how I do it, except I like to drink a 5th of scotch first.
what ever flares your flute
Lmfao
How to fix a non vertical riser before adding the new riser?
what about the top stair! i was anxiously awaiting to see that one.
what do you do about the large gap in between the stair and the vertical board?
You could sand the top tread nose, or do like I did and lay a new matching wood floor down over the old floor. For the risers, the gap between the stairs, I used 1/8" plywood cut to size after I cut off the old tread nose. The new stair cap was then cut to sit over the plywood.
very nice video. How to finish the last top step? Thanks
What material could you use for the stair ? Any timber or has to be special ?
Question:
Why don't you Stain the wood BEFORE
you put it on the stairs ... A lot easier
and then you can Sand it and apply Poly
when done. I do not understand why you
would want to do all the hard work once it
is on the stairs... Very Hard to twist and turn
to get to the right angles ...
So if u have good connection u don’t need nails . I took out my old stairs so I have the the rail left I did a test and it fits nice . I’m afraid to use Nails because I want a clean look with no holes or visible puddy spots . Did anyone else try just liquid nails I was going to claim the risers for a day or so and leave something heavy on the step part ? Appreciate the help
what about the top stair! i was anxiously awaiting to see that one.
Lol that is true
How wide is this stair case? I need to add stairs to a bonus room/attic and want to go as wide as possible, but I'm looking for proven examples like this. thanks and best wishes
Ok so my only question is where the hell do you get the stairs with the rounded nose on them? I can't find anything like it, I can't seem to even find the half circle trim pieces like my current stairs use
Jay Harrison selco
Home Depot has them
Theyre called cap a tread... $50 per step!!
HONS...DIPOU!!!!!!
@@flflores0 if you paid $50 a step, you got robbed. I did this a few years ago and paid about $15 for a 3 foot step, cut it down to proper size. And you do the riser first, then measure the stair cap and cut the width and depth.
His staircase lay out is the exact same as my house 😳
What wood is the best for stairs?
Hello, does this stop the stairs from squeekinng?
Squeaking is caused by wood rubbing back and forth against a nail that has come loose over time. You are either nailing or screwing down what is left of the staircase to prevent the squeaking (in this case i recommend coarse thread screws so that there is less walking out over time)
Counter stair? LOL
Wouldn't you have a tripping hazard (a lip) at the very top of the stairs??
But what if there are broken one's?
The only issue is, he is cutting the existing bull nose from the treads, in order to lay new treads over top of old treads. So you basically have a tread on top of a tread! Even if the new tread is just 1/2 thick, you raise each step half an inch which makes the last step uneven which I believe is against code. Does anybody know if it's possible to remove a tread from a staircase, be left with just stringer and then add new threads to that? Right now I have unfinished stairs that are pine and I would stain them but a stain pine would look bad against my oak hardwood, so I would rather have oak treads than pine treads but don't know if I can switch out the treats to keep the height constant.
Cassius Kadesh I was thinking that. I am looking a video to see if I can just change the treads. Or fix the sides since there's little gaps between the wall and stairs. On to the next video lol
Yes, you can remove the pine treads and change them to oak. Depending if your stairs are shop build or site build. Either way it can be done. But it has been 2 years, mostly likely you already change them. If you send me your email I could show you how.
@@francisconavarro8234 hi can show me if u like email is Kevin271280@hotmail.com my stairs return 90 degrees at the top to the right
When your upgrading your home with new stairs and floors. The thickness of your Tread capps will actually compliment the thickness of your new floors. Doing both at the same time will consistently raise the height all around. New hardwood flooring :3/4", Solid Oak Tread Capps:1". The difference is faint.
Where how much this cost for 12 stairs
If you do this, your stairs will be out of code. It's up to you whether that matters or not. Stair riser heights have a minimum, I believe, of 4.5 inches up to a maximum of 7.75 inches. However, the range from the largest height to the smallest height must not deviate any more than 0.375 inches. If you install new treads as suggested in this video, your top riser height will lose an inch, and the bottom riser right will gain an inch, resulting in a 2 inch range from the smallest to largest riser height, being completely out of code.
That being said, this style of renovation on stairs is very common. In my house they are this way, as are some other houses I've seen. Many people don't want to risk damaging the stringer by removing steps. If you have what are called open stringers, you can slip a nail-cutting blade on a reciprocating saw, pry the steps up slightly to slip in the saw, sever the nails and remove the step.
Where the above renovation becomes common are on closed stringers: where the step is not resting atop a stringer and nailed in, but is resting in a dado-cut slot on each stringer. They become "trapped" between the stringers and the only way to remove them is if you have access to the back of the stairs.
If you rent your home, you may not want to do the renovations as above: the stairs being out of code opens you up to a great deal of liability if some sort of accident occurs on the stairs. Even if the accident had nothing to do with the step heights, you can still be liable! If it is your own home, obviously you proceed at your own risk, but the liability still exists if a guest is hurt. In my own personal experience with these stairs, it tends to be a non-issue as people naturally tend to exercise some slight caution on the first and last step of a staircase, but it only takes one accident for that to become a major issue.
Counter Stair? Stringers and risers are too old fashioned, are they?
...what do you do about the large gap in between the stair and the vertical board?
Zen Master Bob you don't lay them like that you do the riser first then the tread.. It keeps that out of your sight line
What do you think about add on stairs that solution?- ruclips.net/p/PL5brLT-ZRkcmXOs43HXOqrHKXgEaZA6gx
This is one of the most unprofessional videos I've ever seen!
1) Never use nails to eliminate squicking - use screws instead;
2) There are no such thing as a single step - you assemble steps from hardwood planks;
3) Do not use measuring tape - use special tool called "stair jig tool" to capture the form of entire step which often is far from perfect rectangular shape;
4) what they call "counter step" is called "stair riser" and it has to be attached before the top step.
1) what you call "squicking" - is actually spelled 'squeaking';
2) how in the world did anyone manage to build stairs for *hundreds* of years before your precious "stair jig tool" was ever invented???
@@PatrickWagz
2) ...and thousands and thousands years ago in stone age there was no tools at all besides a sharp rock. Should we expect a video coming out soon on how to build stairs with a sharp rock? What is your point?
Baba Yaga lol u nailed him with the sharp rock and he never came back to reply 😂
AMEN Baba... You're right
Baba Yaga, based on your comments I am sure you haven't done any of these projects you just saw in the RUclips whatever this guy did is not wrong using screws or nails don't make a big difference as long as you use the right size and for the measuring stairs , stairs jig tool is not necessary why should he spend some extra money when he gets the job done correctly without the precious tools? And thirdly he did right when he installed the stairs treads first after that risers and it make sense because the small gaps between the treads and risers won't be notable
NEVER, NEVER nail down squeaky timbers, be they stairs or floors. Guaranteed to start squeaking again in less than a year. Use floorboard SCREWS. No squeaks and easy to remove if the boards ever need to be lifted in future. The correct screws cost around $10 for 200.
Having now seen the whole video I suggest you look elsewhere for the correct way to this job.
Probably because he is staining. Most people use a 18 gauge nail gun and a lot 400 LP glue when doing stairs that will not carpeted. The more you know 😉
hack job at best.
I broke my stairs because I'm to fat and my parents hit me 😭😭
Worse job ever
"and then saw ALL if necessary" ?? your stairs are fucked just chainsaw everything
I was using woodprix instructions to make it and I did it already :)