I put together a list of some of the tools I use in my shop (affiliate) link for my Amazon Store, if you'd like to support what I do, shop through this link: www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodshoptv
Hi CARLI have seen many types of jig for producing segments in the last 36yrs but this one is the tops. Simple to make and easy to use for any type of segment. Well done on producing this and I think many turners who do this type of work will agree with these comments. David Muckle UK turner
Well presented, Carl.As an engineer and (kinda) math guy, I believe there is a good reason it works so well: the principle of compensating errors. Using a normal sled with only one fence, errors are additive; if your sled is off by + 0.1 degree, after you make 16 cuts your ring is off +1.6 degrees. With the dual fence wedgie sled, the first cut may be off +0.1 degree, but when you make the next cut the error is cancelled out. The first cut is +0.1 degree error , the second is -0.1 degree error. End result, in theory, zero error.
That's a really great set up Carl and will probably encourage a lot more people, including myself, to try segmented turning. I feel such turning can be very beautiful but in reality, it's pointless unless it's done perfectly with the correct angles and definitely no gaps in the joints.Many thanks,Alan.
I made one of these sleds for my current segmented project and it worked great. As someone mentioned below, it's easier to keep the wood against the fence when it's on the front. I did cut some wider segments on the back of the bottom fence and it worked but found it's best to put a clamp on the piece when running it through the saw. Look forward to your segmented projects Carl. Take care. Steve
Made the sled and bought the wedgies and my first 16 segment circle looked like yours! Perfect alignment and easy as can be. I have a bunch of things I am going to do with it now. This is the best sled I have seen on the internet!
Just watching this video again as I've literally just had my first table saw delivered and this is one of the things I want to try. The reason which I'm sure many have said for changing between each guide rather than flipping the wood over is that you keep the grain side by side. I've done a couple of pine projects on the chop saw where you have to flip the wood over and that reverses the grain on each piece. I will check out the links now and looking forward to try and make something similar. Just goes to show that even though I thought the video was great first time round, I come back watch again as it is something I need to do. Thanks again!
the idea of moving the piece after each cut is to ensure the miter fence is backing up the workpiece as you push into the cut. If the fence is in front of the work piece then only your finger pressure holds the piece in place. The key is to always have the work piece in front of the fence. But I see your point, sliding the piece between the fences is more convenient and faster.
I've been thinking about the fence thing. I think the best reason to use the top of the fence is so you are referencing off the same edge of your board (to be cut). If the two edges are not 100% parallel using the different edges would mess up the angles on your individual segments. -Todd
+frank howarth First off, Frank and Carl, I am addicted to both your youtube channels- thank you so much for being awesome at what you do. I too made one of these sleds and it makes for flawless rings. No more gluing up halves and then sanding and then having a second glue. I changed my sled up a little though and did two parallel T-slots. I made about an inch of play for the knobs on top so the sled is a bit more customizable and I can even add any type of hold-down clamp that fits a T-slot. Let's all thank Jerry Bennett!
I cannot believe the timing! I was researching segment jigs just the other day and stumbled on the Segeasy and had decided to make one. I have not gotten to it yet, but you just validated my choice!
Thanks for the video! I made one of these too. I used Sketchup to measure the size of wedges using different polygon parameters, cutting MDF wedges, then sanding and fine tuning until I got the angle right. ( I can't find a way to paste the table here but I can email if anyone is interested. Also, if you duct tape your shopvac hose in front of the blade and remove the dust bag, keeping up with the segments gets a lot easier. I think the reason for the two wedges is to acomodate a saw blade that may not be 90 degrees to the table. BTW, remember to mark the back and top edges of the work piece before you cut to insure that each segment is rotated before glueing. I have found that rubber bands work as clamps OK.
Great video and jig. I used to do segmented turning and had a similar jig I used with a radial arm saw. The reason for using the front face of each fence is not only to support the wood during the cut, but also so that you are only using one face of the stock as a reference surface. That guarantees that all the segments cut will have the same included angle - even if the stock is tapered. You could also use a 30-60-90 drafting triangle as a "wedgie" for 12 segment rings.
This is too funny! I just made the sled and gage on Saturday and Sunday. I am now making my bowl. It is working great! I have watched Frank Howarth make a segmented bowl and did some work on Micrstation to get my dimensions right, but found Jerry Bennett's system ingenious and simple. I did buy the wedgies by the way. I hope Frank watches your video.
I fully agree. I bought a set of Wedgies because my mate had them and I couldn't believe how well the segments cut. I made one segmented bowl last year and decided that was it but, after seeing the Wedgies in action, my mind changed completely. I have to make a sled and then my first project... a cremation urn for my aunt who is alive and well but wants to see her urn it and show it to people. She is a fantastic, funny, lady. Best Wishes, Brendan.
+baconsoda I'm with you segmenting was always a pain, but this sled is so easy. I hope you share pictures or a video of your aunts urn she sounds like a neat lady. Take care, Carl
Great video Carl. I'm just guessing but I think the reason he uses the front fence on the outside is so that the wood being cut is supported from behind as you push it to the blade.
I asked Jerry that exact question. He told me it's because the blade is turning towards you and if the board gets short it could launch it, so having it on the far side of the angle it's safer. 5:04 in the video.
Hi Carl. I think the reason he moves from the front of the rear arm to the front of the other arm is because as you feed into the blade,having the arm behind the work piece,pressure will force the wood into the arm and be stable where if you just moved the work piece forward to the next arm,the pressure while feeding will want to force the wood away from the arm and create a bad cut or some other sort of instability.
A great demo Carl, if I was into segmenting.....which I'm still not, I would make one. One thing I thought was a great idea was the bevelled fence to the right of the blade, to direct the segments away from the blade when they're cut. Great stuff my friend. Take care Mike
Cool jig Carl .It will take all the guess work out of it . Sorry to hear had a rough weekend but it bea ok next year is coming lol.My wife told me to say that . Take care.
Looking forward to seeing your segmented project. I have been using this jig for several months and it definitely is a pleasure not having to deal with half rings.
Nice video. Quite educational. I made a single sided sled for my band saw as I felt the sled you demoed was more complex than I cared to get into. You have a bit more patience with that than I do. I prefer the half ring method: works best for me. Welcome to the obsession, Carl!
Okay, so after 2 hours of watching every video of Jerry's I figured out why you only use the front of the fences on the sled. It has to do with not pulling the piece threw the saw. You always want to push against a fence otherwise you can have the piece come off the fence and either just have errors in your cut or worst case have a finger in your cut. Anyway, I just found about 100 more projects I want to do with all the scraps sitting around the shop... I think that brings my I want to make list to about 423... LOL But in all seriousness this is just about the best jig I have seen for making segments very easy. I plan on cheating and making my wedgies out of 1/4" MDF and gluing a template make in sketchup to it and sanding to the line... Might just be my first video in over a year. Thanks as always!!! Cody
wow you are right I sure learned allot I tried a few times but never happy with results thanks Jerry is truly talented fellow I think could use my cnc router to make my templates
Yep, will build me one these, thank you very much :) I've never been drawn to segmenting, but maybe a sled like this which will make it simpler would push me over the deep end. Thank you for sharing Carl! Also, my won live center has arrived, and oh boy is that an amazing piece of machinery, thank you so much!!
I made one of these sleds and it works great. However, a 60 or 80 tooth carbide blade on the saw will still leave some fuzzy wood fibers on the end of each segmented piece. To improve upon this, I used a 10" plywood saw blade with 200 teeth. The cuts are much finer and smoother.
I love making templates more then making the actual items...it is like cracking the code more then making a single piece of work...copper templates to quickly make the blanks for arches like saxon and gothic, etc made for a very easy reduction in time consuming calculations....so any 'one off ' can become one of a few in a few colors and styles.
thank you so much for your information. I dont know if I can make a segmented bowl or plate or not but im going to try. I like to try things im not sopose to be able to do. So again thank you again i will continue to watch your vidios
There are a couple reasons to use the fences like he describes , first is to have the fence to back up the piece as it is cut, the other is so that it is always the same face of the wood against the fence, the reason this is important is if your stock isn't perfectly parallel you angles won't be right. All you need is 1 flat face that you use against the fence, the angles will work.
Segmenting was such a pain I never wanted to do it again Carl. But this seems to be a great fast and easy way to do it. Maybe I'll rethink it. Take care my friend and do a kindness Mark
Great explanation of this sled, Carl! I actually checked out the videos after I saw you post about them on Facebook. This is on my list of stuff to build, I've been really wanting to do some segmented stuff lately. Thanks for sharing!
The wild guess I'd make as to why you use always the top of the guide is so the pressure from the blade is always toward the guide - if you'd put it under the guide you probably wouldn't have any issues but run a risk of having it move slightly in the Y angle and ruin the angle. Just my personal opinion. Love your videos, thanks for sharing
I actually set mine to be equal on both boards because if you make a mistake and turn a segment over and the angles are different even though together the are 30 degrees for the 12 piece they could leave a gap. I also discovered you need to be very watchful to the width measurement because an error of a small amount does add up with 12 pieces around the layer. I use a software called Segment Project Planner. If you plan on doing much of this it is worth the 40 bucks.
I also use two hold down clamps because when the get short my finger is too close to the saw blade and I think the clamps can ensure better measurements results, at least I believe it does.
Hi Carl! Thank you for your nice demonstration of your segmenting sled, shall immediately build myself one. A little question for you? What wedgie's do you think I need to get started with turning with segments: I see that you use 18 segments, is that enough or should I buy some other models as well? Grateful for your reply. Lalla Sweden.
One more note...if you want to use stock wider than the 2" maximum with this design make the jig with the fences father apart than the 2" off center. Mine has a 3 1/2" spacing from the center line. Should accept boards up to just shy of 5" wide. I need this to make solid discs of just over 8" in diameter.
+Carl Jacobson With the wider spacing I mentioned you can still use the more narrow stock. I wish Jerry had mentioned this in his video...at least I learned a few things on my first attempt.
carl that looks like a great sled,,but I seen you demo the miter set and it looks like the easiest way to cut segments,,which one do you prefer,,or recommend,,
They both work great, and are perfect every time, but the miter set is quicker to set up. Here's the link if you want to check it out, miterset.myshopify.com/?aff=22
The reason the stock is either shoved into the stop by blade rotation.. or pushed away from the stop by blade rotation adding a extra angle when pushed away..
The reason you use the leading edges of the fences is for the backing you get from each fence...otherwise you would have to fight the force of the saw blade with your fingers. Might be dangerous.
I think you move the piece to the front of the guides each time it so that you always reference the same face for every cut. otherwise, the angle would get messed up it the workpiece was just a little out of square.
+Jesse Eder I think you're totally correct -- it's a good practice in all woodworking always to reference the same face/side. In addition, using the front of each guide lets the saw blade push the work against the guide for both cuts, rather than having one push/one pull.
Hey carl, couldn't you just rotate the wood 180 degrees on the long axis and make the second cut to get the same angle on both sides instead of fiddling with 2 guides that need to be perfectly the same angle?
Good afternoon, Carl! My name is Willian and I'm Brazilian. I'm a lover of this job! I wanted some information on how to do the segments. The first is the same as the others, or I have to change the cut, the thickness! How do I get a cut table? Hugs, Willian
I have a question and I can't seem to find an answer. My question is about the wood stop or gauge of the size of the wedgies cut. How can I find out how deep or what is the right depth to set the wood stop to cut for each wedgie segment?
Hi Carl I’m new to turning I made a wedgie sled like in this video but when I use a 12-8 wedgie I end up with 16 segments to complete I thought it should be 12 ? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
mr. carl this is johnny from corpus christi. im perty dumb on angles so could you please let me know what the angles are for a 6 and a 8 sided segmented circle
The reason for the way he does the wood rotation is so you are always using the same edge of the wood because the tow sides can be not the same which will throw your cuts off. using one side they always come out the same.
Gord Rock (youtuber) had problems with some of his segments gapping on a project, but it turned out either a chip or some sawdust got between his piece and one of the fences. Once he discovered that anomaly everything was fine. It might pay to put a dust relief (chamfer) on the lower edges of the fences or at least keep his experience in mind if something goes awry. It only takes a minute variance to throw things out of whack. Also - a person can make their own wedgies on a CNC router if they have one laying around the shop (or knows someone who has one). Have fun, --Joe
That is a killer jig man! Worth making for sure! thanks for sharing this! I'll be checking out Jerry, subscribed! What's the name of those angle blocks you were talking about?
So if there a need for a wider segment, the opening is not adjustable. I guess you could make both sleds. If you look at Frank Howarth's wedding bowl, I'm not sure it will fit this sled. Maybe he will do a bowl with this sled.
+Charles “Tim” Reicks Charles, You can cut both wide and narrow segments with one sled by making the gap between the two fences wider. It can cause a problem setting up the fences with a wedgie because the wedgie will extend well beyond the two fences and not have much bearing surface. That can be easily fixed by cutting a strip the same width as the additional gap you added and place it alongside the wedgie when you set the fences. This will effectively make the wedgie wider and will work fine as long as the sides of the strip are parallel and there is no sawdust in the sled.The Aggieturner
Great video thank you. I have watched all the segmenting videos and my segs. are off. So back to the videos, and still no improvements. So iam going to order the wedgies and in the mean time I'll go and get a 30,60,90 triangle and try again. Once again great video Carl.
+Carl Jacobson i wqs curious on how to price them i have had a couple people ask to buy some from me but have no idea what to charge, just looking for some info
If segmentation is something you're interested in, do yourself a favor and make this sled. It will save you a lot of headaches.This is Jerry Bennett's from segeasy design, and cost about $30 to build.
great video!! it looks like there may be more competition in the segmenting game now ;) i cant wait to see what you make!! P.S. how are u setting the stop to the correct length of the segments? and how are u doing your planning of the rings and overall project? have fun Justin
RE: Why moving the stock to the leading edge...the rotation of the saw blade pushes the stock against the guides. If you just slide the stock to the back side the blade could push the stock away causing inaccuracy in the cuts.
The reason you go from one side to the other is if you're not exactly perfect on your angle, it doesn't matter because the other angle will make up for the difference. In other words, if you're making 30 degree total angles, if one side is 14 degrees, the other side will be 16 degrees. So if you cut all your angles on one side, they'll all be 14 or 16 degrees and they won't fit together.. So you must alternate! I draw a line on top of the wood I'm cutting and make sure to cut with the line up every time. Then when I glue them, every other piece is turned over so one will have a line up, the next will have the line down and they come out perfect every time.
I put together a list of some of the tools I use in my shop
(affiliate) link for my Amazon Store, if you'd like to support what I do, shop through this link:
www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodshoptv
Hi CARLI have seen many types of jig for producing segments in the last 36yrs but this one is the tops. Simple to make and easy to use for any type of segment. Well done on producing this and I think many turners who do this type of work will agree with these comments. David Muckle UK turner
+David Muckle Thank you very much David! I could't agree more...Jerry's design is fantastic!
Well presented, Carl.As an engineer and (kinda) math guy, I believe there is a good reason it works so well: the principle of compensating errors. Using a normal sled with only one fence, errors are additive; if your sled is off by + 0.1 degree, after you make 16 cuts your ring is off +1.6 degrees. With the dual fence wedgie sled, the first cut may be off +0.1 degree, but when you make the next cut the error is cancelled out. The first cut is +0.1 degree error , the second is -0.1 degree error. End result, in theory, zero error.
+Bill Wells The above will be true only if you separate the two fences exactly, for instance using a drafting triangle.
+Bill Wells Thank you Bill! Yes I'm very happy with the results.
Carl: The genius of this sled is that any difference in the angle is compensated as long as the two fences are each other at the correct angle.
That's a really great set up Carl and will probably encourage a lot more people, including myself, to try segmented turning. I feel such turning can be very beautiful but in reality, it's pointless unless it's done perfectly with the correct angles and definitely no gaps in the joints.Many thanks,Alan.
+Alan Simpson Thank you Alan, It really does take all the guesswork out of it.
Take care,
Carl
I made one of these sleds for my current segmented project and it worked great. As someone mentioned below, it's easier to keep the wood against the fence when it's on the front. I did cut some wider segments on the back of the bottom fence and it worked but found it's best to put a clamp on the piece when running it through the saw. Look forward to your segmented projects Carl. Take care. Steve
+Steve Lindsley Thanks Steve, I'll check out your video.
This is a great system. It will be worth your time to go watch Jerry's videos, and building a sled.
Made the sled and bought the wedgies and my first 16 segment circle looked like yours! Perfect alignment and easy as can be. I have a bunch of things I am going to do with it now. This is the best sled I have seen on the internet!
+Terry Ellis Very nice Terry! I'd love to see a picture of you work. I agree with you... this is the best sled ever!
Just watching this video again as I've literally just had my first table saw delivered and this is one of the things I want to try. The reason which I'm sure many have said for changing between each guide rather than flipping the wood over is that you keep the grain side by side. I've done a couple of pine projects on the chop saw where you have to flip the wood over and that reverses the grain on each piece.
I will check out the links now and looking forward to try and make something similar.
Just goes to show that even though I thought the video was great first time round, I come back watch again as it is something I need to do. Thanks again!
Very cool Paul! I look forward to seeing what you come up with!
the idea of moving the piece after each cut is to ensure the miter fence is backing up the workpiece as you push into the cut. If the fence is in front of the work piece then only your finger pressure holds the piece in place. The key is to always have the work piece in front of the fence. But I see your point, sliding the piece between the fences is more convenient and faster.
I've been thinking about the fence thing. I think the best reason to use the top of the fence is so you are referencing off the same edge of your board (to be cut). If the two edges are not 100% parallel using the different edges would mess up the angles on your individual segments.
-Todd
I just made one of these sleds, it works great.
Glad to hear Frank!
Well if Frank and Carl both vouch for it that's more than enough for me
+frank howarth Segmenting was always a pain for me, but with this sled it's so easy.
+frank howarth First off, Frank and Carl, I am addicted to both your youtube channels- thank you so much for being awesome at what you do. I too made one of these sleds and it makes for flawless rings. No more gluing up halves and then sanding and then having a second glue. I changed my sled up a little though and did two parallel T-slots. I made about an inch of play for the knobs on top so the sled is a bit more customizable and I can even add any type of hold-down clamp that fits a T-slot. Let's all thank Jerry Bennett!
+Philip Mark Thank you Jerry Bennett
I cannot believe the timing! I was researching segment jigs just the other day and stumbled on the Segeasy and had decided to make one. I have not gotten to it yet, but you just validated my choice!
+Alan Erickson You wont be disappointed! This thing works great.
Thanks for the video!
I made one of these too. I used Sketchup to measure the size of wedges using different polygon parameters, cutting MDF wedges, then sanding and fine tuning until I got the angle right. ( I can't find a way to paste the table here but I can email if anyone is interested. Also, if you duct tape your shopvac hose in front of the blade and remove the dust bag, keeping up with the segments gets a lot easier. I think the reason for the two wedges is to acomodate a saw blade that may not be 90 degrees to the table. BTW, remember to mark the back and top edges of the work piece before you cut to insure that each segment is rotated before glueing. I have found that rubber bands work as clamps OK.
+Kenny Boothe Thanks for all the tips Kenny! My email is jacobson68@yahoo.com
Great video and jig. I used to do segmented turning and had a similar jig I used with a radial arm saw. The reason for using the front face of each fence is not only to support the wood during the cut, but also so that you are only using one face of the stock as a reference surface. That guarantees that all the segments cut will have the same included angle - even if the stock is tapered.
You could also use a 30-60-90 drafting triangle as a "wedgie" for 12 segment rings.
+Steve Garrison Thank you Steve, and thank you for all the tips.
This is too funny! I just made the sled and gage on Saturday and Sunday. I am now making my bowl. It is working great! I have watched Frank Howarth make a segmented bowl and did some work on Micrstation to get my dimensions right, but found Jerry Bennett's system ingenious and simple. I did buy the wedgies by the way. I hope Frank watches your video.
+Larry Jones :) I'm all most done with my first vase.
I fully agree. I bought a set of Wedgies because my mate had them and I couldn't believe how well the segments cut. I made one segmented bowl last year and decided that was it but, after seeing the Wedgies in action, my mind changed completely. I have to make a sled and then my first project... a cremation urn for my aunt who is alive and well but wants to see her urn it and show it to people. She is a fantastic, funny, lady.
Best Wishes, Brendan.
+baconsoda I'm with you segmenting was always a pain, but this sled is so easy. I hope you share pictures or a video of your aunts urn she sounds like a neat lady.
Take care,
Carl
Great video Carl. I'm just guessing but I think the reason he uses the front fence on the outside is so that the wood being cut is supported from behind as you push it to the blade.
+Martin Boyle That makes sense.
I asked Jerry that exact question. He told me it's because the blade is turning towards you and if the board gets short it could launch it, so having it on the far side of the angle it's safer. 5:04 in the video.
Good to know
This jig looks like a must for segmenting.
looks simple and provides great results! very clever and ellegant solution!
Hi Carl. I think the reason he moves from the front of the rear arm to the front of the other arm is because as you feed into the blade,having the arm behind the work piece,pressure will force the wood into the arm and be stable where if you just moved the work piece forward to the next arm,the pressure while feeding will want to force the wood away from the arm and create a bad cut or some other sort of instability.
A great demo Carl, if I was into segmenting.....which I'm still not, I would make one.
One thing I thought was a great idea was the bevelled fence to the right of the blade, to direct the segments away from the blade when they're cut. Great stuff my friend.
Take care
Mike
+Mike Waldt Come on Mike.......put down the broom, and do some segmenting....LOL Thank you my friend, take care Carl
Cool jig Carl .It will take all the guess work out of it . Sorry to hear had a rough weekend but it bea ok next year is coming lol.My wife told me to say that . Take care.
+glen mckelvey Thank you Glen! Don't blame it on your wife I know it's all you........lol
Take care,
Carl
Looking forward to seeing your segmented project. I have been using this jig for several months and it definitely is a pleasure not having to deal with half rings.
Nice video. Quite educational. I made a single sided sled for my band saw as I felt the sled you demoed was more complex than I cared to get into. You have a bit more patience with that than I do. I prefer the half ring method: works best for me. Welcome to the obsession, Carl!
+AnkleBiter Woodworks It really is an obsession :)
Вот уж никогда бы не подумал что все так просто...
Спасибо за разъяснения.
Желаю успехов в жизни и творчестве!
+сергей кухта Большое спасибо!
Okay, so after 2 hours of watching every video of Jerry's I figured out why you only use the front of the fences on the sled. It has to do with not pulling the piece threw the saw. You always want to push against a fence otherwise you can have the piece come off the fence and either just have errors in your cut or worst case have a finger in your cut.
Anyway, I just found about 100 more projects I want to do with all the scraps sitting around the shop... I think that brings my I want to make list to about 423... LOL But in all seriousness this is just about the best jig I have seen for making segments very easy. I plan on cheating and making my wedgies out of 1/4" MDF and gluing a template make in sketchup to it and sanding to the line... Might just be my first video in over a year.
Thanks as always!!! Cody
+Cody W Thanks Cody! If you make the wedgies please do a video.
That's really cool! Can't wait to watch you making some awesome segmented projects with it!
wow you are right I sure learned allot I tried a few times but never happy with results thanks Jerry is truly talented fellow I think could use my cnc router to make my templates
That was awesome seeing it in action! Very smooth.
Will have to try making one. Good like a easy way to cut angles. Thanks!
+T-Toys & UFO's It works great Tom.
Yep, will build me one these, thank you very much :) I've never been drawn to segmenting, but maybe a sled like this which will make it simpler would push me over the deep end. Thank you for sharing Carl! Also, my won live center has arrived, and oh boy is that an amazing piece of machinery, thank you so much!!
+Yuval Lahav It really does make segmenting fun and easy! I'm glad your prize arrived.
Nice video Carl, I like this sled and stop as well as the blade slide incline for the for segments.
+Erik Anderson Thank you Erik!
I made one of these sleds and it works great. However, a 60 or 80 tooth carbide blade on the saw will still leave some fuzzy wood fibers on the end of each segmented piece. To improve upon this, I used a 10" plywood saw blade with 200 teeth. The cuts are much finer and smoother.
Very cool!! Thanks for the tip!
I love making templates more then making the actual items...it is like cracking the code more then making a single piece of work...copper templates to quickly make the blanks for arches like saxon and gothic, etc made for a very easy reduction in time consuming calculations....so any 'one off ' can become one of a few in a few colors and styles.
thank you so much for your information. I dont know if I can make a segmented bowl or plate or not but im going to try. I like to try things im not sopose to be able to do. So again thank you again i will continue to watch your vidios
Thanks Johnny, I'd love to see some pictures when your done. thewoodshop.tv
There are a couple reasons to use the fences like he describes , first is to have the fence to back up the piece as it is cut, the other is so that it is always the same face of the wood against the fence, the reason this is important is if your stock isn't perfectly parallel you angles won't be right. All you need is 1 flat face that you use against the fence, the angles will work.
I just made mine, the result is excellent!
Could use this for making snare drum shells. Thanks Carl this is brilliant!
That would look really cool, thank you!
I need to make one of these, thanks Carl.
Take care
Rob
+Woodslee Summercraft Thank you Rob! You won't regret it.
That is Awesome Jig. I love segment turning but hated the setup this might make it better.
+Mike Fulton Thank you Mike, I think it'll make all the difference.
Thanks Carl for the information, this really makes segment cutting look easy! (Well easier, LOL)
+Tim Knowlton Thanks Tim, It really does simplify thing.
Carl, you should try making a longboard, that would be awesome, all other people have horrible tutorials, you would make a perfect one
+Brianna Wenrich That would be a fun project!
I think so too
+Carl Jacobson Maybe it can be your next project
Hi Carl that is really a cool jig, thanks for sharing my friend! Cheers! Daniel
+Daniel Vilarino Thank you Daniel!
Segmenting was such a pain I never wanted to do it again Carl. But this seems to be a great fast and easy way to do it. Maybe I'll rethink it.
Take care my friend and do a kindness
Mark
+MARK Baid It really is so easy, you should give it a try.
Take care,
Carl
Great explanation of this sled, Carl! I actually checked out the videos after I saw you post about them on Facebook. This is on my list of stuff to build, I've been really wanting to do some segmented stuff lately. Thanks for sharing!
+Braxton Wirthlin Thank you Braxton! If you want to get into segmenting this is the way to go.
very clever solution!
The wild guess I'd make as to why you use always the top of the guide is so the pressure from the blade is always toward the guide - if you'd put it under the guide you probably wouldn't have any issues but run a risk of having it move slightly in the Y angle and ruin the angle. Just my personal opinion. Love your videos, thanks for sharing
That makes sense! Thank you!!
The other reason is that the backside of the cut may also get more grain tearout since the fence also acts as a zero clearance throat
I actually set mine to be equal on both boards because if you make a mistake and turn a segment over and the angles are different even though together the are 30 degrees for the 12 piece they could leave a gap. I also discovered you need to be very watchful to the width measurement because an error of a small amount does add up with 12 pieces around the layer. I use a software called Segment Project Planner. If you plan on doing much of this it is worth the 40 bucks.
I also use two hold down clamps because when the get short my finger is too close to the saw blade and I think the clamps can ensure better measurements results, at least I believe it does.
Thanks for the tips Tom!
T tracks to use with the angle setting bar. Easier than the curves to make.
That's interesting, thanks for sharing Carl
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD Thank you Mitch
one fence is the primary angle and the other fence is the complimentary angle.
Hi Carl!
Thank you for your nice demonstration of your segmenting sled,
shall immediately build myself one. A little question for you?
What wedgie's do you think I need to get started with turning with segments:
I see that you use 18 segments, is that enough or should I buy some other models as well?
Grateful for your reply.
Lalla
Sweden.
Thank you Lalla! I think 12 is the most common segmented pieces. It would be a good place to start.
One more note...if you want to use stock wider than the 2" maximum with this design make the jig with the fences father apart than the 2" off center. Mine has a 3 1/2" spacing from the center line. Should accept boards up to just shy of 5" wide. I need this to make solid discs of just over 8" in diameter.
+Gil Grace Thanks for the Gil, I may need to make anther one.
+Carl Jacobson With the wider spacing I mentioned you can still use the more narrow stock. I wish Jerry had mentioned this in his video...at least I learned a few things on my first attempt.
carl that looks like a great sled,,but I seen you demo the miter set and it looks like the easiest way to cut segments,,which one do you prefer,,or recommend,,
They both work great, and are perfect every time, but the miter set is quicker to set up. Here's the link if you want to check it out, miterset.myshopify.com/?aff=22
You could maybe cut some segments on a laser cutter in the next FabLab.
The reason the stock is either shoved into the stop by blade rotation.. or pushed away from the stop by blade rotation adding a extra angle when pushed away..
The reason you use the leading edges of the fences is for the backing you get from each fence...otherwise you would have to fight the force of the saw blade with your fingers. Might be dangerous.
yup, this ^ always have something backing the piece
I like perfection.
can this sled be used with a band saw?
What are the metal pieces you use to tighten the pieces together when glueing called??
They're hose clamps amzn.to/2zPetrs
I think you move the piece to the front of the guides each time it so that you always reference the same face for every cut. otherwise, the angle would get messed up it the workpiece was just a little out of square.
+Jesse Eder I think you're totally correct -- it's a good practice in all woodworking always to reference the same face/side. In addition, using the front of each guide lets the saw blade push the work against the guide for both cuts, rather than having one push/one pull.
+Clyde Ulmer also, supporting the workpiece this way will minimize tear out
Hey carl, couldn't you just rotate the wood 180 degrees on the long axis and make the second cut to get the same angle on both sides instead of fiddling with 2 guides that need to be perfectly the same angle?
+Cooking With Cows I think you could flip it too.
Can't find the link to the videos you talk about??
+Chris Yountz Here's the link to his channel, ruclips.net/channel/UCd8Q...
you forgot to mention the pencil lines on the face and edges and to keep face upwards and to alternate the edges!
Good afternoon, Carl!
My name is Willian and I'm Brazilian.
I'm a lover of this job!
I wanted some information on how to do the segments.
The first is the same as the others, or I have to change the cut, the thickness!
How do I get a cut table?
Hugs,
Willian
Hi Willian,
If you cut the, all the same length they will make the circle.
carl thanks for the great tip. bob
+Robert Kutz Thank you Robert!
I have a question and I can't seem to find an answer. My question is about the wood stop or gauge of the size of the wedgies cut. How can I find out how deep or what is the right depth to set the wood stop to cut for each wedgie segment?
Hi Robert,
The stop gauge determines how big the rings will be. planetcalc.com/1421/
Don't you move it so the material is always supported?
Any angle set up will work right if you set it up right.
great video, what blade are you using? looks like it had a lot of tearout
+Mike West Thank you Mike! I think I need a new blade.
Hi Carl I’m new to turning I made a wedgie sled like in this video but when I use a 12-8 wedgie I end up with 16 segments to complete I thought it should be 12 ? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
I'm not really sure Ronny, I don't do a lot of segmenting. Here's his website, maybe he has some tips. www.segeasy.com/wedgies.htm
Hello Carl I would like to know how to make the small wisely has 5:22 min and thank you for sharing this video daniel
Thank you Daniel! Here's a video making the segments. ruclips.net/video/bhrmoM1buE4/видео.html
is there a reason why people use MDF instead of particle bord or plywood?
MDF is much more stable.
Thank you for the prompt response
Would this work on a bandsaw?
I don't see why not I would just get the biggest blade you can get for your band saw. And make sure everything is lined up correctly
mr. carl this is johnny from corpus christi. im perty dumb on angles so could you please let me know what the angles are for a 6 and a 8 sided segmented circle
Hi Johnny, 6 piece segments are 30 degrees and 8 is 22 1/2
You can get some of the wedges at Hobby Lobby for around $2.
Thanks for the tip Terry
What blade do you use to cut your segments how many teeth ?
+Harry Tucker It's an IRWIN I think it's a 72 but it really doesn't matter, as long as they're sharp.
The reason for the way he does the wood rotation is so you are always using the same edge of the wood because the tow sides can be not the same which will throw your cuts off. using one side they always come out the same.
+dale jones Thanks Dale!
When I was in shop class in high school I was taught to switch the grain patter so it don’t warp. Is this still the case?
Yes you should still do that.
Gord Rock (youtuber) had problems with some of his segments gapping on a project, but it turned out either a chip or some sawdust got between his piece and one of the fences. Once he discovered that anomaly everything was fine. It might pay to put a dust relief (chamfer) on the lower edges of the fences or at least keep his experience in mind if something goes awry. It only takes a minute variance to throw things out of whack.
Also - a person can make their own wedgies on a CNC router if they have one laying around the shop (or knows someone who has one).
Have fun, --Joe
That is a killer jig man! Worth making for sure! thanks for sharing this! I'll be checking out Jerry, subscribed!
What's the name of those angle blocks you were talking about?
+McGinn's WoodShop Thanks Jason! Jerry calls them Wedgies
So if there a need for a wider segment, the opening is not adjustable. I guess you could make both sleds. If you look at Frank Howarth's wedding bowl, I'm not sure it will fit this sled. Maybe he will do a bowl with this sled.
+Charles “Tim” Reicks If you want to do bigger segment I think you can take the front off, and just use the back guild.
+Charles “Tim” Reicks Charles, You can cut both wide and narrow segments with one sled by making the gap between the two fences wider. It can cause a problem setting up the fences with a wedgie because the wedgie will extend well beyond the two fences and not have much bearing surface. That can be easily fixed by cutting a strip the same width as the additional gap you added and place it alongside the wedgie when you set the fences. This will effectively make the wedgie wider and will work fine as long as the sides of the strip are parallel and there is no sawdust in the sled.The Aggieturner
+Carl Jacobson Good idea thanks.
Great video thank you. I have watched all the segmenting videos and my segs. are off. So back to the videos, and still no improvements. So iam going to order the wedgies and in the mean time I'll go and get a 30,60,90 triangle and try again. Once again great video Carl.
+Dave Dubanoski Thank you very much Dave! You wont be disappointed.
if you didnt move the move piece to the front the forward rail you risk tearout on the back edge.
+ShopTalk Thanks for the tip!
Carl what is the web site I can't seem to find it. Thanks
Hi David, it's www.segeasy.com
good job
+Leon Britton Thank you Leon!
do you sell your segmented bowls
+Cody Russell I don't have any bowls for sale right now.
+Carl Jacobson i wqs curious on how to price them i have had a couple people ask to buy some from me but have no idea what to charge, just looking for some info
If segmentation is something you're interested in, do yourself a favor and make this sled. It will save you a lot of headaches.This is Jerry Bennett's from segeasy design, and cost about $30 to build.
I used the miter saw with a stop block and it worked great. thanks Carl.
EXCELLENT
+Rafael Vinatea Thank you!
great video!! it looks like there may be more competition in the segmenting game now ;) i cant wait to see what you make!!
P.S. how are u setting the stop to the correct length of the segments? and how are u doing your planning of the rings and overall project?
have fun
Justin
+Justin Fiaschetti Thanks Justin! I went old school I used a tape measure...lol
RE: Why moving the stock to the leading edge...the rotation of the saw blade pushes the stock against the guides. If you just slide the stock to the back side the blade could push the stock away causing inaccuracy in the cuts.
+Earl Rumble Thanks Earl, that makes sense.
The reason he moves the stick that way is it keeps the grain oriented on the ring.
To find cut length
8.0 diameter 8 segments
360 degrees / 8 segments = 45 degrees
45 degrees / 2 = 22.5 degrees
22.5 degrees tangent = .4142
8.0 diameter / 2 = 4.00 radius
4.0 radius x .4142 tangent = 1.6568 ( side opposite )
1.6568 ( side opposite ) x 2 = cut length
Thank you Cecil!
The reason you go from one side to the other is if you're not exactly perfect on your angle, it doesn't matter because the other angle will make up for the difference. In other words, if you're making 30 degree total angles, if one side is 14 degrees, the other side will be 16 degrees. So if you cut all your angles on one side, they'll all be 14 or 16 degrees and they won't fit together.. So you must alternate! I draw a line on top of the wood I'm cutting and make sure to cut with the line up every time. Then when I glue them, every other piece is turned over so one will have a line up, the next will have the line down and they come out perfect every time.
were can we find and get a set of wedgie templates am putting together my sled know
+Tazz Man Here's the link to Jerry's website, www.segeasy.com/
Great demo Carl, going to see if I can get those wedgies over here in the UK.Thanks for sharing, Take care Bram
+Brams shed Thank you Bram! If not maybe you could make them.
Take care,
Carl
Where or how can I purchase a wedgie sled for seg turning
+bill kane I don't think Jerry sells the sleds, just the Wedgies.
In the words of Mike waldt welcome to the dark side thanks gmt
+Gary Thomas Glad to be here Gary! lol