Thanks for highlighting the Westbury Tuscany Railing! FYI - Square cuts are all that is needed on top and bottom or both rails. The mounts are designed to accept square cuts.
SO helpful in advance of my install, thanks! I'll pass along a tip I saw about separating those collars: hold it upside down and strike the separating side with a mallet. It's worked for me every time so far!
Thanks for the video. Helped a bunch (especially about the gap need between posts and balusters - which bit me in the butt at first). Couple things (for others): 1.) Although not shown, flat head screws should be install on *both* sides of the mounting brackets into the rails. 2.) Personally, I wouldn’t use a chisel/wedge to separate the post skirts when they are *not installed.* There is a vid at diggerspecialities that shows how to separate the skirt - 99% technique, 1% strength. Doing by hand can save potential scratching and really is easy. Now, *once the skirt is installed* the only way to remove is to wedge the parts apart like shown here (that is also covered in the diggerspecialities video). Great video!
On the Tuscany you don't need to do it anymore. On the Riviera they are pre cut that way. There are still some sections in the channel with the old instructions in them.
Why don't you start at the end of the railing piece instead of cutting of each end with extra ballasts? I'm getting ready to install a new deck so I'm curious. We were priced out for supplies to have a piece left over for another section and I'm confused.
Great video, thank you for all of your instruction, it was extremely helpful! The note about 1 3/4" space needed really saved us some heartache. My recommendation is to Know Your Local Code. Our City follows IRC xx and it requires a handrail in addition to the guardrail, if you have more than 4 risers. It can be a bit tricky because the handrail is required to be a minimum of 34" from the nose of the step and the top of the guardrail on the steps is required to be between 34" - 38". The bottom rail of the guardrail can't allow a 6" sphere through it - so you really need to know what your requirements are before you start installing.
No. There is a stair rail kit and straight kit. The stair rail has rectangular slots for the balusters to pivot/be angled. Straight rail is pretty much a square since the baluster will be perpendicular. But the balusters themselves are interchangeable between the rails.
I might use Uglydeck but please no music as it interferes with concentration and hearing the installer. So how high is the bottom rail off the steps, never mentioned. It should tell us the posts already secured. Don’t overlook crucial elements. So in re-reviewing I see that the bottom rail is laid on top of a level. How about a 1x2 to lay bottom rail on to equal the level? We all don’t have 6 ft levels. This aspect of the rail laid on top of level quickly glossed over. And then all of us do not have a 6 ft level! Nothing mentioned about post heights for stairs? The the plastic template by manufacturer for placing brackets. Then I see as the railing is installed the upper post is longer/taller…..…why? If your stairs are not this length and number then where do you get the railing for shorter length or fewer steps.
Thanks for highlighting the Westbury Tuscany Railing! FYI - Square cuts are all that is needed on top and bottom or both rails. The mounts are designed to accept square cuts.
SO helpful in advance of my install, thanks! I'll pass along a tip I saw about separating those collars: hold it upside down and strike the separating side with a mallet. It's worked for me every time so far!
Thanks for the video. Helped a bunch (especially about the gap need between posts and balusters - which bit me in the butt at first). Couple things (for others): 1.) Although not shown, flat head screws should be install on *both* sides of the mounting brackets into the rails. 2.) Personally, I wouldn’t use a chisel/wedge to separate the post skirts when they are *not installed.* There is a vid at diggerspecialities that shows how to separate the skirt - 99% technique, 1% strength. Doing by hand can save potential scratching and really is easy. Now, *once the skirt is installed* the only way to remove is to wedge the parts apart like shown here (that is also covered in the diggerspecialities video). Great video!
ruclips.net/video/h60SyCv6lBM/видео.html
A really helpful video. Thanks!
Do you have to cut the spindles at an angle before assembling inserting them into rails? Or do they remain square like they came in the box?
On the Tuscany you don't need to do it anymore. On the Riviera they are pre cut that way. There are still some sections in the channel with the old instructions in them.
I question the spacing of the bottom so close to the stairs. It seems to me it should be higher off the stair treads themselves?
Great video, thanks for the details. The manufacturer doesn't go into this level of detail.
For the crossover cut, mark it in the middle of the crossover bracket, but do you cut it on that angle or square?
Square
Great video.
Why don't you start at the end of the railing piece instead of cutting of each end with extra ballasts? I'm getting ready to install a new deck so I'm curious. We were priced out for supplies to have a piece left over for another section and I'm confused.
Great video, thank you for all of your instruction, it was extremely helpful! The note about 1 3/4" space needed really saved us some heartache. My recommendation is to Know Your Local Code. Our City follows IRC xx and it requires a handrail in addition to the guardrail, if you have more than 4 risers. It can be a bit tricky because the handrail is required to be a minimum of 34" from the nose of the step and the top of the guardrail on the steps is required to be between 34" - 38". The bottom rail of the guardrail can't allow a 6" sphere through it - so you really need to know what your requirements are before you start installing.
Do all the square rails work for stairs as well , because we think we didn’t order ones for the stairs
no
No. There is a stair rail kit and straight kit. The stair rail has rectangular slots for the balusters to pivot/be angled. Straight rail is pretty much a square since the baluster will be perpendicular. But the balusters themselves are interchangeable between the rails.
Yeah thanks, we figured it out and had to reorder brackets for the stairs. Very nice looking set of hand rails though I think
I might use Uglydeck but please no music as it interferes with concentration and hearing the installer. So how high is the bottom rail off the steps, never mentioned. It should tell us the posts already secured. Don’t overlook crucial elements. So in re-reviewing I see that the bottom rail is laid on top of a level. How about a 1x2 to lay bottom rail on to equal the level? We all don’t have 6 ft levels. This aspect of the rail laid on top of level quickly glossed over. And then all of us do not have a 6 ft level! Nothing mentioned about post heights for stairs? The the plastic template by manufacturer for placing brackets. Then I see as the railing is installed the upper post is longer/taller…..…why? If your stairs are not this length and number then where do you get the railing for shorter length or fewer steps.