Refinishing A Gun Stock Using Boiled Linseed Oil / Winchester Model 50 Shotgun
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2024
- An easy way to refinish your gun stock. After removing the old varnish it's simply a matter of sanding and rubbing the boiled linseed oil into the wood. Be sure to rub off the extra oil during each coat. It brings out the beauty of the wood while protecting it from the weather.
with everybody doing the Tacticool, synthetic stocks. it's nice to see a good finished wooden stock. just seems to have a soul to it
Thank you for the video. I really like when people refinish old firearms. New is ok but there is just something about older anything really.
I use the same boiled linseed oil on all my guns for many years, and I will sometimes darken or lighten the linseed oil with stain. I also use 0000 steel wool to rub in the oil instead of a rag. It rubs the stain into the wood more deeply and always works great. Thanks for sharing. Canada.
How long do you have to wait in-between coats and when finished
@@robertrandin9568
This is how I finish my wooden handled tools.
1. Give it a coat of Blo, wait 15 minutes, wipe it down.
2. Apply second coat, wait 15 minutes, wipe it down. Wait another 30 minutes, wipe it down, wait another 3 or 4 hours, wipe it down. Check it occasionally throughout the day.
3. Wait 24 hours , lightly sand the finish with a paper towel and add another light coat, wait 15 minutes, wipe it down.
Wait another 30 minutes, wipe it down, wait another 3 or 4 hours, wipe it down. Check it occasionally throughout the day.
You are checking for any small spots of oil that are not being absorbed into the grain, you need to rub them down or they will mar the finish.
4. Wait either one week or one month, repeat step 3.
The wait and number of coats depend on how absorbent the wood is, and how shiny you want the finish to look.
After that, I will leave the finish a few weeks then maybe a light coat of shellac and then a couple of coats of wax for grip.
There are a lot of videos on here for you to watch.
The steel wool gets into the pores of the grain of the wood
No extraneous verbiage just what we need to know. Nicely done.
I always cut the linseed oil with mineral spirits or turpentine for the first coat. Really allows the wood to drink it up better. I have shifted myself to an oil and varnish homebrew of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 non polyurethane alkyd varnish, and 1/3 turpentine. Use it the same as plain old BLO, but it gives a bit more waterproof protection to the wood and you can with enough coats get more shine.
Good video! I like Teak oil for walnut just a bit more than linseed oil, but they are very close. A thin, buffed coat of Renaissance wax really helps to finish off a natural oil finish, too. It gives it just a touch of shine, and closes off the grain.
Thank you for posting this. I'm in the middle of a resto project, and wanted to see what the linseed oil looked like. Definitely beautiful. Customer is going to have to chose between this and a high gloss urethane. Great video. 👍
Great video on use of boiled linseed oil. I use this on all my vintage rifles, even on the receivers of old double shotguns to protect the metal.
Great video on how to restore good wood stocks. Really liked how you used linseed oil to get the grain to pop on the classic 50.
Absolutely love that buttstock!
That tiger stripe/flame is amazing. The woods they used on plain old factory rifles is stunning.
7:17 "Can't beat walnut". I concur! Here's why. A couple weeks ago I ordered a Boyds at-one laminate stock for my 10/22. A few days later I ordered another Boyds at-one stock for my Ruger American Rimfire(22LR), but in walnut instead of the laminate. Well that was a mistake. This resulted in me also wanting a walnut version for my 10/22 as well. So I just ordered one yesterday. With Boyds finishing their stocks with what appears to be a spray on finish of some sort. While this isn't the end of the world, as it's a walnut stock that's only a little over $200. Hell, the Norwegians(GSR stocks) want 3 to 4 times that amount, for a similar stock that's laminate. I'm sure this Boyds would cost a lot more, maybe even closer to the price of a GSR stock, if they had to hand oil finish every one like this. No worries, if I want that hand oil finish look that properly completes the walnut look and feel, there's only one solution to this problem. I roll up my sleeves, apply some elbow grease, and make it happen. Thanks for the helpful video to undertake this project.
Thanks for the video. After watching it and reading through the comments I decided to re-sand my stock with 600, leave the dust, and hand rub in some BLO (no rag). I've read elsewhere hat rubbing it in by hand, and the smallest amount possible, helps it dry fast. I think that worked, and the stock is looking beautiful already. I won't re-sand but I will repeat the BLO every night for a few weeks. I hope to post a video soon of the final product, which is part of a full Ithaca 37 restoration I've been doing. Thanks again!
I use a simular method when i make knife handles. But after a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil i use a polishing wheel with karnuabe wax to seal it to ensure it wont ever soak water when used for fishing or hunting.
Always heard: One Coat a Day for a Month, One Coat a Month for a Year, One Coat a Year for Life!
What an absolutely beautiful piece of wood! Excellent job!
Nice video, I did that to my grandfather's 30 30, 94 manufactured in1937. Only I did not sand it, I smooth it out with 0000 steel wool, and six coats of Boiled Linseed Oil. Looks original.
Great job, that came out very nice. Seems like no one makes stocks with that much figuring in them anymore. I read that a safe way to dispose of rags once they are used for BLO, was to soak them in water, then put them in a ziploc bag for disposal.
+Andres Turner I just light them on fire in the fire pit, no potential to become a firehazard when they are ash.
Just finished my old single shot 12 this way after watching your video. Left a great finish. Thanks
don't like music on videos but this time is an exception. blended well with what you were doing and the pictures of the old Winchester advertisments, etc. good stuff. the stock turned out really well. In 1983 I gave my son, who was 14 at the time, my Remington 1100 12ga. He had killed his first deer with it here in east texas and it seemed fitting. well long story short, I'm getting that old shotgun back and this video has inspired me to do the same to it as you've done to yours. thanks for sharing.
I’m 3 years late to comment, but that was a nice story about you and your son so I just had to point it out. My younger brother was a hunter well before me and he got our dad’s rifle when dad passed. It’s his most prized possession
Years ago I was in a printing company any we use linseed oil on a wooden die cutting bed. The rags used to coat the bed made enough smoke to fill a 100,000 ft warehouse. Never saw a flame, but is was coming.
You can also sand it with fine grain paper (maybe #600) between each coat. This creates a very fine surface slurry which you then vigorously rub into the wood with your bare hands. This fills in the very small pores in the wood and gives greater protection. Don't use too much oil or it may take months to completely dry.
+Mark G That is how the London gunmakers do it, use BLO with fine sandpaper to use the slurry to seal the wood pores and voids, many times and it comes out looking better than varnished wood. Labor intensive, but well worth it.
Too late, instead taking a drop with the finger, and warming it up with the friction he spreaded liberally.
I've learned from your comment, bro. I'm gonna apply it to newly designed gunstock. Tnx
Birchwood Casey Tru oil has dryers in it much better than the old fashioned outdated boiled linseed oil
You shouldn’t fill the chequering with the oil, it gums up and stops the chequering from being effective. You’ll have to chase out the chequering after finishing now.
You should also use your hand instead of the rag to apply the oil, that way you generate some heat and it penetrates better. Rub in a fresh coat vigorously using you hand (it should get really hot) and then leave to dry until it’s slightly tacky, then add a little more oil to a rag and buff off the first lot of oil. Then leave to dry overnight. Repeat until the piece has a nice sheen to it and then leave for a few days to dry completely, occasionally buffing with a clean cloth as some oil is likely to seep from the wood during this time.
I have opened a bunch of Mode 50’s through the years and still have one, made in 1950. I generally use TruOil on Winchester firearms, but it is just linseed oil with driers and some polymers.
Thanks for the detailed info. Getting ready to use it on an SKS stock I am refinishing. Looks great on your gun.
Funny.. watching this six years later for the exact same reason.
Getting ready to refinish my old sks I ordered ...love the smell..
Groovy! I'm looking for some techniques on how to finish this really awesome staff I found in the woods a few months ago. Thanks for the video :)
Just a little tip for when you rub the oil off, use a clean cotton cloth in each hand and work it with both hands.
I also have a Model 50 and ran across your video and did the same thing you did and mine came out spectacular. Thank you!
Nice gun. I have a 1970 Mossberg 600 I'm thinking of giving a boiled linseed oil treatment to.
Nice, love working with wood just to see the grain come through, makes me want to do mine again !
thanks to the music im gonna binge watch Ken Burs Civil War.
Ken Burns Civil War.
You can also use linseed oil and 400 wet or dry to restore the finish without removing the old finish. I like Ken Burns music as a back ground.
Great video, definitely takes away my anxiety after people have said BLO can get tacky and gross if it's too thick. Doesn't look like it'd be hard to wipe off the excess :) Time to make my SKS stock pretty!
The rule with linseed oil is. Once a week for a month. Once a month for a year and once a year for the life of the wood.
Excellent video. I have not used linseed oil before - have had a gallon sitting on the shelf for 10 years as I used other products.... am currently refinishing a rifle stock.... using mineral oil, tung oil, and Minwax in equal proportions.... just wanted to see how others do it.
I wish you had a clip of how you cleaned the checkering, I want to do that to my used Browning 725 that I purchased and needs to be refinished.
Nice job, I really like the oiled finish
looks nice / when I refinish a gun stock I rub the oil in with my bare hands untill I fell the wood start to get warm . Put a nice shine to the finish
Hi
You need a toothbrush to get the oil evenly in to the chequering then rub it hard with your palm until it starts to feel hot, It will cure absolutely dry by the next day :)
Good video and really nice grain on that stock.....Also....
Don't sell yourself short great grandpa Harris on my mom's side was 102 when he died and he was still making traditional long-bows up until he was in his mid 90s when arthritis took his hands.
best gun stock finish out there, 8 coats minimum for me though. i live on wet vancouver island and the extra waterproof layers really helps water bead.
Great tutorial! Simple and easy! Thanks
Any gun that I have with boiled linseed oil needs to be reapplied every so often or it gets crappy. But I love the feel and look of the boiled linseed oil. I have yet to get a build up but sometimes only a few drops can cover an entire stock
Two things:
Move the jar farther away so you don't knock it over during the application
Use a toothbrush to clean the excess out of the checking between coats or it will fill in and become smooth and useless
Just re-cut the checkering after finishing is the best thing.
Yes at first he called the checkering knurling
Thanks for sharing. Wood looks really good!
I am so glad i seen some of the 1960,s the 70, 80,s. I am 57 now. Its a real shame on how the world is now. Its a throw away world and all the plastics out there and new crap is garbage. 99% of all my firearms are wood and metal. New guns look like crap today.
Excellent review! Just what I was looking for. 🍂
Planning to treat walnut stock on m1a with oiled linseed oil. Having not done this before will practice on two pieces of walnut of pretty much same size to see how it comes out to be safe. There’s a saying about treating the stock on m1 and m1a. Once a day for a wk., Once a wk. for a month., Once a month for a year., and then once a yr. after that. We’ll see how the stock comes out after each coat to see if it needs all those coats.
Lovely Work. She Looks Perfect. Keep up the great work. Nick.
Thanks! It's easy stuff to use as long as you don't put it on too thick and not wipe it off later.
Blo is like hotsauce, I put that stuff on everything.
Looks great. Thanks for sharing this with us.
I put linseed oil on wood and then wet sand it with 400 wet or dry sandpaper and then let it sit on for a few minutes before wiping it off. I use danish oil as the first two coats and then linseed oil. The danish oil stains and seals the wood. You can thin linseed oil with paint thinner for the first few coats. I use epoxy to fix any cracks or dents in the wood,, filing smooth and then sanding. Take the bolt on the stock and cut a slot in it, which makes removal the next time a lot easier.
To clean checkering you can use plastic brush. Same brush you can use while you using lacquer remover but test out the brush first make sure it's not going melt !!!
Ty for the video I just put some on my M1 garand
So it seems like you can skip applying linseed to the inside of the stock (any areas that will be covered up once the gun is re-assembled), can anyone confirm this?
Important note: There's a big difference between standard boiled linseed oil and Tru-oil. Tru-oil has aditives to make it dry faster and also usually a wood stain in it. Also Tung oil is absolutely different thing and will smell like fries and will not dry completely. If you want to use traditional oil finish by boiled linseed oil, what worked best for me is a hand rubbed finish by these steps:
1: clean the wood as best as you can, soak it in acetone if it is needed. Get rid of all oil, , dirt, rust, vax and old finish products
2: let it dry perfectly, but don't put it in direct heat (as radiator heat can warp, twist or crack wet wood). This step will take anywhere from 12 hours to 10 days, don't rush it. Put it in room temperature somewhere and wait. Acetone residue will also damage wood stain and final finish if you don't let it dry off, so don't rush this
3: Repair wood if its needed. Do a good job with tools specialized for wood. Wood bondo doesn't work as bedding material and super glue doesn't work for crack repair
4: apply wood stain if desired. you will aply it with wide brush along the wood grains. Wait about 2 hours and wipe all excess stain with paper towels. Let it dry for 24 hours and wipe it all again but with clean rag.
5: apply boiled linseed oil by your bare hands, dont use towels, rugs or paintbrushes, fingers will do just fine and you'll be able to spread it evenly.. Important..overdo a first coat, let it be absolutelly all over the stock, linseed oil needs to be in heavy coat to soak in the wood in depth.
5: Regularly check wood every few minutes, each time you see dry spot immediately add more linseed oil. Keep wood completely wet like that for around one hour
6: after one gour of manualy wetting the wood, take a paper towel, wipe of excess oil and you'll end up with soaked wood that doesn't have thick coat on but is still wet to the touch
7: use your open hands and fingers to rub finnish to the wood. Do wiping motions following wood grain but eith you bare hands, adjust speed so both your hand and wood gets pretty warm. This step is important and it'll open wood grains and allow oil to be pressed in. Rub rhe stock like this for anywhere around 10-35 minutes make sure oil gets everywhere, even inside the cut outs for action
8: After that wood will still feel just a little bit wet, leave it like that, just make sure oil is evenly spread (there's no buildup anywhere)and place it somewhere with room temperature
9: Wait 24 - 30 hours
10: Congratulations, your first coat is on, wipe the entire srock with clean cloth rag and wait until stock stop being sticky (as linseed oil dry, it gets sticky until it dry completely).
11: After wood is not sticky anymore (around 2 days) You can repeat the process or you are finish. Just take in consideration that each coat will require larger amount of time to dry and lower ammount of oil used. Never leave the stock completely wet without wiping off and hand rubbing the excessive oil as it will become sticky and DRY NEVER. If you did, you have to wash stock in acetone bath for 12 hours and repeat all this again
12: apply another coats only when stock STOPPED being sticky. It usually looks like this
1rh coat- 1 day- 2 thcoat- one week - 3th coat- 2 weeks -4th coat- one month- 5th coat- 2 months - 6th coat
13: Tru-oil will dry much much faster, so consider using it. Boil linseed oil is archaic method that has been around since BC times, its not perfect amd certainly not immediate. But if you have time and Will, your stock can look same like that nice looking 130 years old rifle you got from auction and always wondered how they made its wood look so good.
Signing out. Ask me for any questions
I have an M39 Mosin Nagant that has a flat non-shiny finish. I’m hoping some linseed oil will bring out the grain and give it a nice satin sheen. 🤓
Great Video ,I'm just about to start a new Project and this look's like a great Idea ,thank you ,P/S your gun look's beautiful .
Used cooking oil on my knife handles works well supose it will work on firearms easy to tough up as with all oil finishes
Did my brother's .22 when he was in the service with linseed oil. If I remember t seemed to take forever to dry.. nice results though.
Very cool video. I enjoyed it a lot. Thank you for making it.
Great video. Do you do any sanding in between coats like one would do with True Oil finish. You just wipe it on let it dry and wipe on a second coat... let it dry... and the same for every coat? The stock looks great. Thanks for make this video. :)
Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for the life of the gun. That's how hand rubbed stocks are finished.
Hi! So glad I found this video. I was just looking for generic refinishing videos and stumbled across the exact gun I'm trying to refinish.
The gun was bought by my great great grandfather in the 40's to shoot ducks for market (back then you could sell them). Then it was passed to my grandfather, my father, and he recently passed it to me.
I'm curious about a few of your steps. When you say you got a razorblade into the knurling, do you mean you went inbetween every single knurl? Also I'm curious to see what cleaning with a razorblade even really entails. Did you use an electric sander, hand, or a mixture of both?
There is also a little pock mark on the hand guard I'd love to send you a picture of and see if you know of a way to fix it.
Thanks!
Absolutely beautiful. Thank you for sharing.
8:49 - *Absolutely not!* Do NOT put your discarded rags into a sealed container! That's asking for big trouble, especially if you place that sealed contained in your garage (temporarily) or a trash receptacle near your house (outside). As a Hazardous Materials Technician, I have personally seen these discarded rags ignite by spontaneous combustion, as it occurred; I've watched it happen. Contact your local fire department for disposal advice. You should probably do a voice over and cut that advice out of this video. That gun stock turned out really nice.
I'm going to do this to one of my stocks. Thanks
Try a old tooth brush for the checkering then a horse hair shoe brush.
Is boiled linseed oil only for sanded, stripped bare wood? Plannimg to refinish a stock and if I first lay down a light coat or two of stain can thr linseed oil go over that?
What type of cloth are you using?
Checkering is the word you are looking for.
how long to wait between each coat?
Ashokan's farewell.. great intro
Like many women the good looks will fade with time. Boiled Linseed oil is treated with heavy metal dryers to speed up its curing time, this causes the oil finish to darken over time. Tung nut oil is a far better choice if you want to use just an oil finish.
Ten years before I attended my high schools woodshop had caught on fire after the shop teacher left out an oil soaked rag not sure the finish he was using but apparently spontaneous combination can happen
Man that came out beautiful, congrats.
To achieve better results, you should use your hand to rub it in instead of a rag.
You need to use a tooth brush on the checkering, it works wonders and won't let it gum up with too much oil
How did you clean out the checkering before applying the oil? Thanks.
Another way is 0000 steel wooling it in...really makes smooth
How did you clean up the checkering to begin with?
Only half a video here
Musketman: I have a question how do you tighten up the butt on the 50 I have my grandfather's I watched your video and I did the stock the same way. Thank you for your information and if you can give information on getting the butt tightened also that would be a big thanks.
I'm his son, and trust me, he won't respond. Sorry.
They say exercise works........
no really I've heard theres a specialized tool for the purpose but I've never looked into it. thanks for watching.
thanks for sharing the info you have .. i'm doing a BLO finish for the first time. the stock is in my shop 70-80 deg F with 40-50% relative humidity. the first 5 coats i rubbed in until my hand and the stock were warm(each with 1-2 days between coats)...the last 3 coats i did not rub in as aggressively. finally on the 8th coat i'm starting to see a nice sheen develop on the stock however after 2 days dry time the stock has a bit of a grippy (not slippery) feel....not to be mistaken for tacky/sticky or gummy. do i need to wait longer between coats/until the stock feels smooth/slick again as it did after the earler coats when there was no sheen? maybe longer duratiuon or a different environment for 'drying'?? any of your experience you could share would be great!! thX
Linseed oil doesn't dry by evaporation, it dries by oxidation. I would recommend letting it sit in a warm dry place for a couple weeks and see if it goes away before adding more coats
8 coats.... No wonder it's staying oily. Leave it alone for a long time. I lindseed my shovel, rake and hoe handles. With those, you put on kinda heavy to really soak in, wait 30 minutes then wipe off excess.
hey im a reenactor myself 20th Maine company f. and great video
Do you sand in between coats to fill pores of wood in or do you bother?
What type of cloth are you using to apply the Linseed Oil ?
How do you clean out the checkering? How do you remove the existing varnish from the checkering.
Nicely done video Musketman! Do you need anything other than soap and water to clean your hands after the process?
Thanks
How did you get the medallion off at the base of the pistol grip?
Nice work.
I use a mixture of Linseed oil and turpentine
How do you protect the wood of guns and what oils are used to dye wood?
Should you rub oil on the inside parts of the grip? I noticed you didnt do that
Who are the instaramentalists in your intro ?
Como que eu faço para adquirir este produto?
NICE JOB!!
marka de los materiales y donde los consigo
Did you ever use a wood conditioner, or a wood hardener first? I am going to order new wood for my 94 and start from scratch
Excellent video, thanks. I've heard of soaking in Kerosene and linseed oil. Is this a good or bad idea. I've a Uberti Cattleman/'Colt peacemaker replica and I didn't like the varnish and want to give it a nice elbow oil\polish.
I feel as if you're from Wyoming or Montana or something haha. That old school western vibe that hasn't been touch with modern western vibe