I was Mr. Goodwrench and there is no cheap maintenance or Tow Jobs from the middle of the Desert, a breakdown can kill you and it does. Maintenance like belts, hoses batteries and Tires can save your life. If your tires, belts hoses or battery are 4 years old they owe you nothing in this heat and can fail anytime.
This gentleman seems knowledgeable and honest. One thing I do that was not covered is when I buy a new car I perform the initial oil change at 2,000 miles to get rid of break in oil and any derbies that may exist following the initial driving miles. The 2nd oil change is at 5k with all subsequent changes on the fives (10k, 15k, etc.). ALWAYS change the oil filter with every oil change.
I have a 2014 with 467,000 miles - oil changed every 10,000 miles. Replaced injectors about 50,000 miles ago - upper control arms twice and front wheel bearings once - Wonderful Audi Q5 TDI
Changing oil nearly monthly on modern cars is always a mystery to me. A 5 000 mile interval has not been necessary or beneficial for 50 years, it's an old wives tale. 15 000 km has been the standard for decades and engines last longer than anything else on the car. Spent oil tests ok. Even 30 000 km might be okay if the car gets a lot of use and it's just a few months. Not a good idea if it's 24 months. And Arizona is an especially forgiving environment for delayed oil changes, making this urban legend even more of mumbo jumbo. 15 000 km or 10 000 miles or one year is more than acceptable and very good even in deep freeze climates.
Spot on, on all the advice 👍🏻 I bought a new Avalanche years ago, used conventional oil, changed every 3K miles. Put around 80K miles on it and it didn’t leak, smoke and ran like new. Do the same with all my current vehicles with no issues.
Problem with the 5,000 mile tire rotation places near me charge around $25 and several times got stuck for a few hours. Rather save the $125 to $150 on rotations that never seemed to extend the tire mileage by more then a few thousand miles. The $150 I save buys pays for one of the 4 new tires.
HI TECH care care is false. Top tier fuel has over and above the government required . Examples of top tier fuel are..chevron sunoco mibile shell marathon costco. Or look up 'top tier' dont waste your money on premium if it is must be.
Folks should take the time and learn how to do basic vehicle checks like engine oil level and quality, coolant level, wiper fluid, and to be alert for noises and leaks. Catching (and addressing) problems early because your are engaged will save you time and money, and also make your car more reliable and safer.
My vehicle manufacturer DOES NOT RECOMMEND transmission flushing. Also, newer cars transmission fluid filters are internal to the transmission cannot be replaced unless the transmission is removed and disassembled. So anything that gets loose in the transmission during a flush will clog the filter.
Lake the motor oil geek already compared that don’t matter what kind of compression you got premium feel is so much more cleaner. It’s so much better for your motor, but it is a dollar extra a gallon.
The lower grade FUELS contribute to SLUDGE more than premium fuels. Pay for premium FUEL now..... or Pay for sludge and loss of engine life and money to repair sludge induced repairs LATER.
The octane is one thing. The additive package is quite another. Buying high octane does not mean it is 'top tier' fuel. Dont fall for the false advice and throw your miney down the drain
Anyone that thinks 10K mile oil maintenance changes....Will have major engine failures before 100K. Fact check if you will. I have worked as a Master Mechanic for over 40 years. A good SILICONE oil and transmission fluids will forgive your lack of maintenance and do NOT absorb moisture. Moisture is absorbed into all NON SILICONE oils, thus the old routine 3500 miles OR -MONTHS. Sitting for MONTHS, you will absorb moisture that will be burned out quickly, but humidity going in a hot convertor will cause premature failure. SILICONE will run at HOTTER moments of your engine without failing...the biggest advantage for promoting silicone engine oil & fluids.
A while ago I watched a U Tube vidio where the person stated that he self test condition of transmission, brake fluid & maybe rear and only replaces them when needed. Believe he said that he called oil every 4K miles. Wondering how many others do that and is it reliable. Nogoodnic Honda dealer talked me into several fluid changes and dummy me left my owners Manuel at home so I agreed to get screwed over. No longer go to any lying nogoodnic Honda dealers.
I was Mr. Goodwrench and there is no cheap maintenance or Tow Jobs from the middle of the Desert, a breakdown can kill you and it does. Maintenance like belts, hoses batteries and Tires can save your life. If your tires, belts hoses or battery are 4 years old they owe you nothing in this heat and can fail anytime.
This gentleman seems knowledgeable and honest.
One thing I do that was not covered is when I buy a new car I perform the initial oil change at 2,000 miles to get rid of break in oil and any derbies that may exist following the initial driving miles. The 2nd oil change is at 5k with all subsequent changes on the fives (10k, 15k, etc.). ALWAYS change the oil filter with every oil change.
I have a 2014 with 467,000 miles - oil changed every 10,000 miles. Replaced injectors about 50,000 miles ago - upper control arms twice and front wheel bearings once - Wonderful Audi Q5 TDI
Changing oil nearly monthly on modern cars is always a mystery to me. A 5 000 mile interval has not been necessary or beneficial for 50 years, it's an old wives tale. 15 000 km has been the standard for decades and engines last longer than anything else on the car. Spent oil tests ok. Even 30 000 km might be okay if the car gets a lot of use and it's just a few months. Not a good idea if it's 24 months.
And Arizona is an especially forgiving environment for delayed oil changes, making this urban legend even more of mumbo jumbo. 15 000 km or 10 000 miles or one year is more than acceptable and very good even in deep freeze climates.
Flushing fluids causes more trouble than it’s worth. You have a bunch of inexperienced kids working on your vehicle.
As a retired mechanic I approve this message.
Come in more often so I can make more money. lol. Everything is it depends of course.
Spot on, on all the advice 👍🏻
I bought a new Avalanche years ago, used conventional oil, changed every 3K miles. Put around 80K miles on it and it didn’t leak, smoke and ran like new. Do the same with all my current vehicles with no issues.
Problem with the 5,000 mile tire rotation places near me charge around $25 and several times got stuck for a few hours. Rather save the $125 to $150 on rotations that never seemed to extend the tire mileage by more then a few thousand miles. The $150 I save buys pays for one of the 4 new tires.
Garbo8962 so buy the road hazard option.
HI TECH care care is false. Top tier fuel has over and above the government required . Examples of top tier fuel are..chevron sunoco mibile shell marathon costco. Or look up 'top tier' dont waste your money on premium if it is must be.
Manufacturers for the longest time suggested LOWER tire pressures to SELL that rough riding vehicle as you would get a softer ride
Folks should take the time and learn how to do basic vehicle checks like engine oil level and quality, coolant level, wiper fluid, and to be alert for noises and leaks. Catching (and addressing) problems early because your are engaged will save you time and money, and also make your car more reliable and safer.
My vehicle manufacturer DOES NOT RECOMMEND transmission flushing. Also, newer cars transmission fluid filters are internal to the transmission cannot be replaced unless the transmission is removed and disassembled. So anything that gets loose in the transmission during a flush will clog the filter.
Lake the motor oil geek already compared that don’t matter what kind of compression you got premium feel is so much more cleaner. It’s so much better for your motor, but it is a dollar extra a gallon.
I have a 21 4runner and do my oil every 5k miles and rotate the tires at the same time.
This Hi-Tech Car Care guy should be an E.R. Doctor.
Nitrogen has an advantage with HEAT forgiveness. ROAD travelers would have LESS blowouts with NITROGEN filled tires.
The lower grade FUELS contribute to SLUDGE more than premium fuels. Pay for premium FUEL now..... or Pay for sludge and loss of engine life and money to repair sludge induced repairs LATER.
The octane is one thing. The additive package is quite another. Buying high octane does not mean it is 'top tier' fuel. Dont fall for the false advice and throw your miney down the drain
Anyone that thinks 10K mile oil maintenance changes....Will have major engine failures before 100K. Fact check if you will. I have worked as a Master Mechanic for over 40 years. A good SILICONE oil and transmission fluids will forgive your lack of maintenance and do NOT absorb moisture. Moisture is absorbed into all NON SILICONE oils, thus the old routine 3500 miles OR -MONTHS. Sitting for MONTHS, you will absorb moisture that will be burned out quickly, but humidity going in a hot convertor will cause premature failure. SILICONE will run at HOTTER moments of your engine without failing...the biggest advantage for promoting silicone engine oil & fluids.
Change your oil every 4K to 5K miles. If you don’t do anything else.
Invite Scotty Kilmer to your show.
A while ago I watched a U Tube vidio where the person stated that he self test condition of transmission, brake fluid & maybe rear and only replaces them when needed. Believe he said that he called oil every 4K miles. Wondering how many others do that and is it reliable. Nogoodnic Honda dealer talked me into several fluid changes and dummy me left my owners Manuel at home so I agreed to get screwed over. No longer go to any lying nogoodnic Honda dealers.
Good to know!!!
Good insights from experienced guy