I wouldn't lump A1s in with AE-1s. A1s were proper professional cameras and they're built like tanks. The shutter squeak that they have is easily fixed yourself with a syringe of lubricant. They just run and run!
you're correct, the cough can be repaired unless it's too far gone and the mirror box gears have worn. There are a lot more things to go wrong with the A1 such as the 8-segment display and the battery door on all of those cameras is prone to breaking
Same here I have one, and I fixed the squeak my self a really easy thing to do, I replace de light seals and that is it, I love it and it is build to last for sure.
I also used to work in a camera shop and I would largely agree with your choices. My Canon A1 is pretty good, so is my Nikon EM. My first SLR was a Pentax ME Super, which soon developed its trademark fault, which is a mirror stuck in the up position. My recommendation for a good user would be an Olympus OM2n - well made and lenses are plentiful and not too pricey
Funny that I stumble on this video, I own a Canon AE-1 Program with no squeal and no issues and an accurate meter, and a recently CLAed Zorki 4 rangefinder. So far so good... I love my FD lenses, the only issue I ever had on my AE-1 was that I drained a battery shooting star trails in bulb mode with a cable release. Bought an FTb QL for super cheap to have a mechanical option. Interesting to hear what people working on camera repair shops thinks about various models
The FTb is actually a really solid alternative if you aren't too concerned about having a working meter which tend to go over time. Another later option which is worth checking out is the EF body (confusing as it takes FD lenses).
I respect that you put an opinion out there, and your data sample cant be ignored. I have collected about 5 AE-1 programs, and 4 of them developed problems. The last one got the squeak, but that is not that hard to fix. I really dont like how they work either, but that is just personal preference. I also wouldn't recommend one based on my experience. Interesting comment on the ME Super. I have had 4 ME Supers (I am a camera collector) and only really had issues with the first one (which was my first real camera my parents bought for me in 1983) Not seen any issues with the electronics, other than dirty contacts on the exposure compensation dial that is simple enough to fix with some deoxit. I have actually had a lot more issues with the SuperA/Super Program. Of the three I had only one worked properly - One was DOA, while the other worked for a short time and then died. My sample size is obviously a lot less than a camera repair place - but I would add that at least one camera repair youtuber I watch likes the ME Super because it is relatively easy to repair. As you can tell I am probably biased because it was my first camera 😀 I've never been tempted by the OM10 - but would agree with your assessment - probably better off with the OM20 or OM40 if you want a cheapish OM camera. Cameras I would avoid? Any model that is super hyped, and massively over priced, i.e Olympus Mu/Muii, Contax G2, Contax T2.
Thank you for your input that's interesting to see. From what i've heard from a few repairers is that the ME Super used a cow hide washer in the mirror box which over time dries out and either crumbles or goes sticky, this then usually causes the mirror to lock up and is a pain to replace as it's incredibly difficult to source cow hide washers these days😂 would be interesting to know if there is a simpler replacement available. I would discourage people from the OM20/30/40 more than I would the OM10 as they have magnets controlling the mirror and shutter mechanisms which have a horrible habit of fusing together, again, getting these magnets replaces is often more costly than the camera is worth. It all kind of comes down to personal preference, some cameras make work well for some people but not for others, i think in the case of the ME super it also comes down to climate as that apparently plays of a role in how quickly they deteriorate
@@MaxLamdin Was also thinking climate - tends to be pretty dry in Australia, so perhaps that is a factor. While we are on Pentax the LX is probably a model I would caution against, unless you are super confifent about the particular camera and its history. Fantasic camera, but has known issues with sticky mirror caused by failing lubricant. I recall getting one repaired about 5 years ago, and it wasnt cheap. Any of the 'MZ' cameras are to be avoided because of the failing plastic gears.
LX is a good call, so many mirror and shutter issues with them and so expensive to get repaired! which is a shame as they're such beautiful cameras externally. The whole MZ line was never going to take off and I think Pentax knew that, they were basically issuing recalls and offering free repairs from day 0
When I worked in a camera shop in 1989, we were finding A1 and AE-1's with broken shutters coming in. To be honest I'm surprised they've lasted this long!
That is still a reality today with them just locking up sometimes. Seems that bodies which have been in constant use hold up better but I'm genuinely surprised they've lasted as long as they have
I am a Nikon 35mm photographer and can say that the best Nikons that I used are the Nikon F2, Nikon F3 and Nikon F5. These are solid professional cameras. I would recommend the F2 over the F3 just because it’s mechanical. I would also recommend the Nikon S2, S3, S4 and SP rangefinders, they are highly reliable and can still be services as well. I also recommend the Bronica SQ series 6x6, a very reliable and affordable medium format system. If one has the money go for a good Hasselblad 500 CM or later camera body. I can also recommend Rolleiflex; get any of those cameras serviced and you will have a workhorse.
The F2 is definitely the most reliable out of the F bodies you listed, i hear the S range shutters can be a problem to repair if they are damaged but i'm not sure if that's any particular model or all of them? I would always recommend the Bronica systems for anyone looking to invest in a medium format system and have covered them before on my channel in other videos
@holyjesus8603 From the mid-1970s through mid 80s, a bought Nikkormats, then FM and FE models.The "mats are relatively simpler cameras used the Copal Square shutter, which must be the best, most durable focal plane shutter ever made. The Fm and FE models replaced them because the buying market shifted to smaller, lighter cameras with more electronic features, lights, etc. While the FM is strongly built compared to cameras of that era from other makers, the "Mats are unequaled.
Good info! I agree on the Pentax ME Super, mine has the usual issues with the mirror not snaoping back...but I pmly paid £10 for it and it came with a nice 50mm lens. The camera is now a future project.😳 The Olympus Trip 35 is a bit more robust than you give it credit, mine is still functioning fine and still looks brand new. My olympus Pen EE which is even older still (1960s) and has the same selenium cell technology and it functions great. I've added your channel, always good to connect with other retro camera content creators.
£10 is good for the lens, the ME Super is known for having that issue as there is a small cow hide washer inside which deteriorates and is hard to replace. Trip 35's can be good if they've either been stored in a case or have their original lens cap on, unfortunately if they do not then they likely do not work
@MaxLamdin There is a way to 'regenerate' the selenium cell, it's much like a battery cell with a copper disc coated in selenium, I think what happens when exposed to light over time the cell oxidises and doesn't produce the correct current, it appears to stop working, cleaning the cell restores the current. There is also a hack to get the 1/200th shutter and use the flash exposure settings to manually select the exposure, a bit fiddly but means a bad selenium cell can be worked around...
@MaxLamdin True, often the cost or repair far outweighs the value of the camera 📷 in the case of the Trip 35 ,they are so plentiful, if mine ever failed I'd just buy another, I only paid £40 for mine. I certainly wouldn't pay the crazy £150+ prices some I've seen go for with a colourful skin! 😳😲 Interestingly, my Trip 35 spent some time on display, without lens cap, luckily it was in a darkened room, doesn't seem to have negatively affected it, as it works just fine. I'm just staggered my 1960s Olympus Pen EE is still functioning perfectly, I guess they're were built to last back then.😲😁
Just playing (on loan) with a Pentax K1000. So far so good. Just borrowed it and I’m on my first roll of film. Back in the day I loved my Canon AE1 and was heartbroken when it was stolen some 15 years later.
love the K1000 it was the first proper SLR i used after someone lent it to me too! Shame the AE1's do break down and they can usually be serviced but often times it's not economic to have done
@@MaxLamdin Das tun ALLE Kameras, egal welcher Hersteller es ist. Also musst du vor ALLEN Kameras warnen ;-) Oder selbst doch etwas noch dazu lernen und besser differenzieren.
You know GDR is east Germany which was not a part of soviet union (USSR, CCCP)? Prakticas and Pentacons are much better quality than Russian cameras like FEDs and Zenits. They have some great lenses like Flektogon, Sonnar, Biometar but the bodies are way worse than Japan production. Having shot on both, I think there is vast difference between GDR and USSR cameras. My system of choice is Minolta SRT. Great lens selection and fully mechanical bodies with CdS lightmeters.
some of the lenses are amazing! but being M42 you're usually better off putting them on a Spotmatic and K-mount body with an adapter. The GDR was a satellite state of the USSR, most of their supplies for making cameras came from there too
@@MaxLamdin it was actually the other way around, most of the machinery used in camera manufacturing in the USSR were from the DDR, especially right after ww2 because they had to give a lot of their hard industry to the USSR as war reparations. also, yes the DDR was a satelite state as in that the country was dependent on the USSR economy and thus toed the USSR line, but it is incorrect to say that the DDR didn't for a large part act independently. on the topic of cameras from the DDR, I've overal had good experiences with them and the problems with them seem to be moreso caused by aging, and I am willing to bet it's the same from the cameras coming from the USSR
@@MaxLamdin Mit der Kamera-Geschichte kennst du dich schlicht nicht aus, und mit der Technik im Inneren wohl auch viel zu wenig. Deutschland war schon vor dem 2.Weltkrieg führend in der Kameraherstellung - die Maschinen für die Herstellung gingen tatsächlich nach dem 2.Weltkrieg in die UDSSR und in der DDR fing man ganz neu an. Ach ja, wieviele gute Kameras kommen denn aus UK? Muss man schon lange darüber nachdenken.... Und selbst die UDSSR-Kameras sind nicht so schlecht wie ihr Ruf.
I can agree with this: caveat being that if it's tested, working and sold by someone who is honest and knows the gear, any of these can still be a good buy. Some of my favourite photos were with a humble little Pentax ME. Some alternatives and reliable counterparts: Pentax ME --> get a K1000 or MX instead Canon AE1, AV1,AT1 --> Get an FTB instead Olympus OM10,20,30,40 --> Get an OM1 instead Russian cameras --> always get a serviced one tested and working, and they should be reliable Happy shooting!
I largely agree but perhaps not so much about early Praktica’s. I’m now also finding that a bunch of previously un hailed Japanese manufacturers were producing some rather excellent cameras which are still going strong. I’m talking about Cosina and Chinon SLRs and lenses.
I think shooting film be dead if it wasn't for the die hard street photographers trying to justify spending thousands on their film leicas . I mean is it worth paying all that money for film & developing it only to scan it and change it to digital in LR anyway . Holaaaaa !!!
I bought a Canon A-1 in '92 and I still use it occasionally to this day. And so far it still doesn't have any issues for far even though I took it to Iraq and took a lot of pics during my one-year stay. The only issue that without a battery it's just a mere paper weight. So far I still love my A-1.
I agree with all your comments, with exception of the canon, I collect cameras and the observations especially with the Zeinit and Me super The latter being a shame as it was a lovely sized camera and nice when working, Equally the OM10 but it wasn’t up to the standard of its parentage. The canons have issues, but I find more repairable and more working!
Generally the Canon's are pretty good, the issues usually stem from being kept in poor condition and not being looked after. Broken battery doors is also very common and they're incredibly are to get replaced
Carl Zeiss Jena doesn’t deserve to be on the list, although they mostly produced lenses. Their lenses are exceptional, i got a 35, 50 and 135mm set for my Spotmatic, prefer them to Takumars because of really small minimal focus distances. They are also really well built, only common issue is stiff focus ring which can easily be checked and isn’t too hard to fix. CZJ Tessar is a great beginner friendly lens that can be bought for cheap. Also the Helios 44 is copy of their design, Biotar.
the lenses are a different story, yes they are often very good optics, however again can be known to have issues with quality control. I've seen lenses with bubbles in the glass before but good copies will stay good. The lubricants used in a lot of the East German and USSR cameras and lenses dries up and causes the stiffness
@@MaxLamdin Das von dir genannte Problem gibt es bei allen Kameras, kein Schmiermittel bleibt ewig gleitfähig. Reinigen und neu schmieren ist nichts besonderes.
I shoot weddings on the AE-1 along with my Pentax 645 and love it, my clients love it and don't have any issues (yet) Only issue was I needed to replace the seals in them. It actually makes me happy to shoot the older camera than a more modern 35mm camera. Even with my digitial cameras (up to a7iv) for the past 20 years I only touch a few things, Aperture, ISO and Shutter. Granted AF Eye detect i use, but apart from that, throw all other features out, I never use them, I just like shoot the old school way and an older 35mm SLR is so much fun.
haha my main 35mm is a Canon A1 that coughs like it's dying, and next to it on my shelf is a dead ME Super! Good video, olympus trip does suck, olympus 35RC is a flawless camera that is much much better.
there are ways to fix the cough if it's not too far gone, sure there are videos online covering this. The 35RC is a really good little camera they should have been included in my cameras that are worth buying!
I've tried a load of film cameras, I loved the Canon A1 but wasn't a fan of the digital display for the lightmeter. I've had two Canon AE-1 and both had faults. I think the Pentax K1000 is overrated for what it features. For a lot less money you can get the Pentax ME Super with more bang for your money. The Olympus OM2N was a joy to use with its large viewfinder and slim design. Since film is getting more expensive, I am slimming down my collection and bought the Canon 5D Classic for them "film-like" colours which are incredibly pleasing to the eye.
i can see what you mean about the A1 and K1000, the ME Super is known to have faults and can just give up the ghost especially the lights in the viewfinder but the if you got a good one that works stick with it
I would somewhat disagree with the general advice on Russian cameras. They are really spotty investments - if you dont know the condition. I own about 5 that have been or I have cleaned myself and have enjoyed all thoroughly. Im fairly unsure if my praktica lb2 can even break. I do agree on the canon system though. Automatic exposure is somewhat overrated, and in my opinion doesn't encourage good habits. If a new photographer picks up an AE1 and throws it on auto they have very little incentive to learn about exposure, shutter speed, depth of field, and will in all likelihood have their film processed and scanned. What about film in that process do you learn about, that you shouldn't open the back? I've seen too many people shooting repackaged tungsten film in broad daylight to conclude that the automation and fetishization of film does anyone much good.
with the technical know how to clean/repair cameras yourself yes the soviet cameras can be great workhorses, however as a video aimed at people looking to pick up their first 35mm SLR the russian stuff can usually cause more trouble than they're worth. Full agree with your AE1 viewpoint
Ok, i have to disagree very strongly here. The OM10, yes the manual adapter is odd, but that camer is amazing and is still used by many professionals today and it makes a really great backup camera, not to mention access to some of the best lenses ever produced. The OM10 is also one of the best camera for anyone new to film photography. If you had said the 20 or 30 or whatever, i might have agreed. As for the Trip 35, you are just plain wrong about pretty much everything you said. The selenium meters rarely ever die. i service these cameras and I've never found a broken meter. Mostly they are just unused and a bit stiff and after a simple clean they work 100% again. They're also one of the easiest cameras to work on I've ever come across. i could show a kid how to fix them in a day. Sorry, but you are very, very wrong on that one. After reaching the end of this video, I can't help but feel this might be a bit of an snobbish list, or at least clickbait. I hope that newcomers to photography don't take your advice and just use any camera that works, even if it's a soviet camera.
thanks for the input, i'm always wary or both OM10s and Trip 35s after seeing 10x more of them broken or failing than working over the past 10 years, if a Trip35 doesn't have a lens cap or isn't in a case then there's a 95% chance that the meter is dead
@@MaxLamdin Again, the meter won't be dead. I'm not sure where this myth has come from, but those meters have insane lifespans. They do not die unless someone has been in there and physically snapped something or cut something. those meters are amazing, and they're fully mechanical. Open up a trip and see for yourself, the design is outstanding. Buy a broken one, open it up and see how quickly it will come back to life after a clean. they don't need a lens cap either. If you put a lens cap on, the charge from the meter drains and you need to give it time to charge up again. Yet another myth that seems to be going around. I don't know where you're getting your info, but I'm sorry, it's way off from the facts. i buy "broken meter" trips all the time. i open them up, clean the insides and they work again, 100% of the time. Literally never found a broken one and I've worked on a lot! Yes, a lot of people out there reskin them and call it a refurb, but that's not the same as a real clean. That there is the only reason to be weary of how much you pay. But I suggest buing a broken one and giving a clean a shot. They don't need special tools and they're incredibly simple inside.
I don’t like to be rude to people… But I can’t believe that this guy actually really worked in a camera store. When you listen to what he’s saying I can conclude that he was not the maintenance guy that was in leading position… I agree with you and hope the same that beginner film photographer’s won’t listen to this guy and believe what he is suggesting. I am sorry Max, don’t take it personal. But it is just not right what you telling here. Sorry man…
I worked in a camera shop in the early ‘90s, and even then, you had to be careful when buying a used Canon AE-1/A-1 because the cloth curtain shutters had a tendency to develop issues. Problem cameras made a sneezing sound instead of a clean click when the shutter was released; we actually called it the AE-1 Sneeze. That said, if you can find an AE-1 or especially an A-1 (Canon’s prosumer model at the time, positioned just below the F-1) in great working condition, they’re good cameras. F-1s are still fairly pricey, so if you don’t want to spring for one of those, another good FD-mount choice is a T-70 or T-90 in good condition. Nice thing about those is they have metal blade shutters so tend not to get sticky in the same way as some of the curtain shutters.
interesting i've always referred to it as a shutter cough but it does sound like a sneeze! the earlier FD bodies are also worth considering for reliability, they have fewer bells and whistles but more mechanical which is generally a good thing
If you are going to film you need to learn to repair them or know some one who can. Film camera's are getting older and older with little to replace them. If you are dedicated to film, you will need to buy a few of any of the camera's on your list or ones not on the list. I buy the not so good condition and refurbish them myself. Careful about the top mint camera's on Ebay as they can need repairs too. Spotmatics and the early K film camera's KX,KM,K2.... are my favorites. Don't be afraid of ME Supers or ME's as they are great cameras. Zenits are not as bad as you make them out. Zorki-6 are great camera's (if you can get one not abused) and you can use Canon LTM lenses on it. There are plenty of options but be prepared to spend money. Do your research.
true, being able to do your own repairs does make a lot of difference and the vast majority (if not all) film cameras will be in need of at least servicing soon. The main issue comes when people are buying cameras blind (such as eBay as you mentioned) and are unsure how to correctly check all the functions on a camera. Thank you for the recommendations you've listed and doing the research is definitely the most important part of it all
@@MaxLamdin Solltest du bitte dann auch mal berücksichtigen und Recherche durchführen ehe man über Kameras redet, die man nicht mal dem richtigen Land zuordnen kann.
Nice to see that your 'condemned' list didn't include the once popular Ricoh range of SLR's. I have three of them (KR5, KR10 and KR10 Super). I bought the KR10 new in 1982 and it's worked flawlessly ever since. It now has a 50mm f1.4 Pentax (K-mount compatible) lens. I keep the KR5 in my car all the time 'just in case'. The polycarbonate body may put some people off, but being as I'm not taking them into a war zone, who cares?
the KR5 is a particularly nice little camera especially for the price, nice easy to use match needle meter which i'm sure works great with the K-mount lenses
As I say in the video, it is possible to get good ones and have them work perfectly, it does help if they are regularly used compared to being sat idle for decades which is the case for most people just getting into film who are picking cameras up at boot fairs and in charity shops
the nikon EM was not built to be judged today the series e 28 mm lens is same as its big brother if used manual wind it still works its great little Aperture priority as nikon always favoured light!
true it was never designed to last as long as it has, again, if working they can be alright but there is the potential for them to break down at any time
Nice to see Minolta didn't get listed. So often bad mouthed i don't believe they're as problematic as people say (apart from the old capacitor problem in X700 and family)
as someone who purchased the OM-10 just a couple months ago, I 100% agree that the manual adapter is such a weird thing to have lol. Love the camera but I literally bought it so that I dont have to use that manual adapter for it, ever
Pentax Spotmatic/K1000, the only thing that’ll be dodgy is the spot meter. But otherwise it’s the one I recommend most starting off. Slap a KEKS meter on top and you’re good to go. Aren’t terribly expensive either.
If you mean Spotmatic lightmeters, then yes the CdS cells degrade a little over the years. However the circuit design is simple and highly efficient and can easily be adjusted back into an accurate spec.
Solid advice I'd say. I briefly had a Canon A1 30-odd years ago, that had bad electronics and the typical squeaky shutter that was on its way out. Add 30 years, and I'd stay well clear of those. Nikon FE is also a definite no-no: get an FM2 or similar instead: rock solid and mechanical.
If you can get hands on with an A1 or any camera in it's circumstance that you might want to buy then you can usually tell if it's gonna cause problems or not. My A1 is battered and bruised and has seen a lotta use but it still keeps on going with no flaws. In my experience most cameras that are gonna randomly blow up have usually long since done so already when they've been out in the world for 30 years.
that is a good point, as time goes on the cameras that work well will keep working well, however i had a lovely A1 which served me well for 2 years before coming up with an ERROR message in the viewfinder
@@MaxLamdin it may not be the problem you experienced but I know due to the uh… innovative way through which the PASM controls are selected that sometimes the light meter will read error, which is fixed by pushing the double exposure switch and then cocking the advance lever.
I wouldn't have recommended to OM 10 even when it was current. Sure you can get the adapter for manual override but I think I recall it disables the exposure meter, so there's no exposure confirmation in the viewfinder. I used to teach photography back in the 1990s to 2010, and the numbers of students who'd arrive with them was incredible, mainly because a local camera shop saw an opportunity to off load them onto naïve and inexperienced learners. 100% agree about Russian cameras as well, it often amazes me to see how many "vintage camera" collectors are into them, and the Pentax K1000 for that matter. I suspect it's because they are so cheap and readily available.
K1000s are somewhat like a poor man's FM being fully mechanical with just a basic light meter, they generally require more attention but can be solid if you get a good one
This is my experience too. The early Praktica’s tended to be simple and well made, deriving from a long history of skilled Dresden based camera engineers. It was only really when Pentacon were ‘encouraged’ by their Soviet masters to try to compete in the micro electronics world that things started to fall apart. Perhaps the notable exception to this was the early B series, the B200 and BCX which maintained the Dresden engineering and optics but used Japanese’s chips ie before the East Germans started producing their own. I’m seeing a lot of this ‘down on late 70s early 80s SLRs’. To me it’s partly that these early attempts at micro electronics were indeed flakey everywhere and have since degraded badly, but also there seems to be a generation of camera fixers who were and are fine with the mechanicals but clueless with the electronics. Hopefully a more binary generation of fixers and tuners will emerge (see what I did there 😊).
Depends on your location really. Plenty of places can fix old cameras if needed where I live in Asia. Also depends on where you buy them too and the condition of them.
I'm sorry to hear about the Nikon EM. I always thought it was sensible, sturdy little fellow. But maybe it's not. It was one of the first cameras I ever used.
when they work they are good small cameras but they do have a tendency to break down as they were made with cheaper components and they have a higher likelihood of breaking down given their age
it's not impossible to get ones that are working just fine, but it's worth being aware that they can break down and go wrong at any time which can then be difficult to fix
I have a hard time seeing a camera as investment. I wouldn't use the term. Which cameras will give you good service and that you can affor. I think that's what you mean.
Oh the smell of youth - the GDR and the USSR were two different countries. Yes later Pentacon cameras suffered from quality control issues, but many also continue working 5 or 6 decades after being built. Yes Electronic shutter cameras are a risk - so everything from the mInolta XD7 to Leica R7 to Contax CYs to a plethy of Nikons can all die at any moment, but working versions also have reasons to be used and cherished. I have had two ME Super sold one in 1989 when I needed some cash and the other was bought in 1982 and still goes strong - bought because in that day biits didn't have an MX. But Its also a camers that predicted what would come and the push button manual is very fast in use when you use one. I also have an MX BTW - oh and a Rollei SL2000f. Yes buyer be aware - and especially fanboys - but even electronic shutter cameras can be a great investment if by investment you mean to experience a way of making images.
the GDR being a "satellite state" of the USSR meant most their materials and machinery came from the USSR but i definitely agree with your point about going meterless, steeper learning curve but a worthwhile experience
@@MaxLamdinThe East German camera industry had long history, originated from Zeiss. Their cameras were way better than the Soviet ones. I recently looked up the prices from the late 1960s, and GDR Prakticas had higher prices than a soviet SLR camera - in some cases twice as much. I would definitely not place GDR and USSR cameras and lenses in the same category.
the Carl Zeiss Jena factory (which ended up being located in the GDR) was state owned from 1948, as the state was remotely controlled by the soviets and most of their material and machinery for manufacturing these cameras came from the USSR there are certainly a lot of similarities between the two, granted the GDR was slightly better produced than most of the soviet cameras, they are often still plagued with faults from similar poor quality control issues etc.
@@MaxLamdin that's not entirely true - whilst the Soviets did liberate a lot of the remaining machinery left after the allied fire storm of February 45 not everything was totally destroyed. Part of the reason why the eventually Contax S was built in the old Gothe and Thorsch Werkes was that it was much less damaged and much less assest stripped than ZI or MG Etc. But like Rollei and Voigtlander ZI Dresden did a remarkable job getting a camera out by 1950. The Nettall werks in Stuttgart were as badly damaged as anything in Dresden along with the major parts of both Rolled and Voigtlander. Also many of the former ZI AG engineers as a reserved occupation were still alive. Again part of the reason why Z Stuttgart took so long to get going was that the Zeiss brains trust was still in the Dresden. Also for the first 4 years Dresden had access to steel coming out of Thyssen and Krupps. Rollei, Voigtlander and ZI Dresden actually all retooled quite quickly. As for 4 years the whole of Germany still just about operated as a single market. Hence the Contax S which is a masterpiece all the way up to the Pent (prism) Con (tax) FBM - Fresnel, Metered, Microprism. Yes the S has suffered from shutter problem but pin holes in a 70 year old cloth blind is not unusual - however when they were new they were way a head of their time and well built. Yes by the 1970s foreign currency was the reason Pentacon existed and some of the later cameras were not fabulous, but to say that everything was basically Russian is a very poor understanding of the actual history of the Eastern Block which I forgive as the innocence of youth.
@@fourcornerseducation8828 Ich sehe leider keine Einsicht bei Max, dass er sich mit DDR und UDSSR irrt. Möge am Alter wie auch der Herkunft etwas geschuldet sein, wobei England ja sehr deutsch ist - die "Windsors" sind ein deutsches Adelsgeschlecht.
The ME Super is a 45 year old electronic camera and yes, sometimes old electronics (from all brands) fail. That is reflected in the price, which is roughly a third the price of its all-mechanical sibling, the MX. But I have two that work great, and if one fails, I'll be happy to buy another one for $50-$60. Basically, buying ANY 40-50 year old camera is a crapshoot, but until the major manufacturers start building SLRs again, that's what we have to work with.
that is true they are all a bit of a crapshoot, some suffer from known fundamental flaws such as the ME, where there is a small leather cow hide washer which dries out and crumbles over time which causes the mirror to lock up on them. New SLR's would be the solution but after so long picking up cameras for a bargain will people be willing to spend what the camera will be worth?
My Pentax ME Super works great! But I got it for $60 so it’s not the end of the world if it dies. But right now it works great. It meters correctly and takes nice pictures.
I've been lucky on the Soviet camera front; but I will say that the Kiev rangefinders made from about 1975 and earlier tend to be more reliably built than other Soviet cameras - provided you find one in good working order to begin with
that's true the earlier ones are more reliable, however some of those are now starting to break down just due to their age so it's getting hard to find one working in the first place
Regarding soviet cameras, i could not dissagree more, especially if you live in eastern europe. You just need to know what to look for and be prepared to do some minor repairs and or adjustments and you will be fine. I got a Fed 5 for a little over 10 bucks and fixed a leaking shutter curtain and adjusted the rangefinder and it has served me splendid thru the years. Even on freezing tops of mountains, and on blistering summer days. U just need to check carefully when buying.
with the technical know how to fix and tinker with them they can be good cameras but for new comers to 35mm SLRs there's a lot of things that can be easily missed
The only problem I've had with the GDR SLRs is dead meters. Usually everything else works. The good news is Praktica continued to make meterless cameras for a looooooong time. So my advice would be stick to a meterless camera if you're getting something from the GDR - or if it has a meter, only buy if returns are allowed so you can shoot a test roll with it to check the meter function. So far as the Soviet RFs go: I've had three Zorki 4 cameras, and one Zorki 4K. All of them worked. I've had two FEDs. A FED 3 that was serviced before I bought it, and which I actually prefer to the Leica IIIF that I have, and FED 5B that I bought NIB, unused, and was absolutely the worst assembled camera I have ever seen. Some brands did better work than others, and the newer they are the worse they tend to be. I no longer bother with anything Pentax. The brand has had way too much hype for far too long. You can get a Mamiya DTL 1000 (or DTL 500) for about half as much as a Pentax Spotmatic, and it's a better camera overall design wise, and in my experience far more robust. I've had three, all of them worked, all had functional meters. Gave one to my nephew a few years ago to learn photography with. The other I accidentally forgot where I put so I bought a third.
I was using SLR's back when they were new. Agree about the Pentax ME Super. I have seen breakages in the film transport mechanism. However I have never seen an MX break. Maybe I have just been lucky. Selenium meters definitely don't last. A pity as my Weston Master meter finally died and I loved that meter. Most Nikons, like the FA, were too expensive, and back then people were certain the FA would never last, yet here in 2024 I still have three of them, and they work perfectly. Nikon I generally find is very durable and the extra cost was worth it for the long haul, especially on the higher end models except the F4. The two biggest issues with Nikon was the notorious bleeding LCD, mostly in the viewfinder, but also the body, in the F4. A pity because I love the F4, but they used bad LCD screens for that model. The bleeding can sometimes obscure important information on the screen and seems to be unfixable. It is quite common. The other thing is the sticky body and back door finishes on several late 1980's and 1990's models. The problem is a clear coat which around now is suffering from plasticizer separation and migration to the surface. Can only be solved by removing the layer with rubbing alcohol or similar. Takes time but fixes the issue.
weirdly it's not the internal mechanism of the MX that breaks but the little filament lightbulbs in the viewfinder so the cameras are perfectly useable but have no meter. I love my little FA although i don't use it nearly enough, the LCD bleeds is a real pain from the F3 onwards, i think the removable finders put pressure on them? Minolta cameras of the same period have similar issues but it's the LCD screens on the top plate which bleed. I've heard numerous "fixes" for the sticky rubber over the years, talc, WD40, all sorts but it never lasts sadly
I understand that you are talking about russian cameras in general and I know of their reputation. I have 2 Russian/CCCP cameras which I more or less stumbled upon. I have a Zenit E which I got together with a 58mm Helios lens for only little markup. It was the closest Helios offer to me. The selenium meter is mostly okay although it doesn't go to the top (brighter scenes) anymore. For medium contrast scenes and not into direct bright sunlight it meters fine. It's a little hard to see proper focus sometimes, especially at closer distances. With the lens adapted to my DSLR it's easier. I also have a Lubitel 166B 6x6 camera. I was buying a camera from a guy and we got to talking about photography and I mentioned I was interested in medium format waist level viewfinder cameras so he showed it to me and I bought it later (actually another one cause he's a flipper). It's not that great to use but the results from the single roll I have developed so far were sharp. It's lighter than a Yashica Mat 124G so it's easier to walk around with. Later I did some research into Zenits and bought a Zenit 12XP which has electronic TTL metering, a focusing aid in the viewfinder, can take a strap easier and has better control dials on top. I also like black cameras more. I have yet to develop the film but the metering seemed to work fine but I shot pushed BW film at first.. I have also looked at Kievs but that feels more like a dead end to me. I don't want buy more cameras for their quirkiness or because they imitate something that I actually want. I might have to check for other M42 cameras than Zenits at some point. Well I also have a GDR made Exa 1b which also gave me great results with the 50 2.8. I got it for 10€ so it would still have looked good as decoration anyways. It probably has a reason other german and japanese cameras have a higher price.
the USSR/GDR cameras CAN be good but you'll often have to buy a few before getting a good one, and even then they can just break down at any point. The Japanese and west German cameras will be slightly more expensive but that is because they are often more reliable with better quality control when they were manufactured. Find a camera you enjoy using and that works correctly and stick with it👍🏼
Today I took from post my first (working) Japanese camera and it’s an AE-1. Hope I won’t find any critical problems. But I totally disagree about Prakticas. I have MTL50 and it’s beautiful and reliable camera in comparison with Zenith junk. But even on Zenit you could get nice shots and knowing their price it’s okay choice for beginner.
when the Prakticas work they're alright, the electronics are prone to failing, often due to poor soldering or faulty capacitors. if you get a good one they can be good, but you can go through a few before finding one that works right
I think price is the key here. Near where I live there's this thrift store that, I believe, mostly sells the stuff inheritors sell them in bulk. I suspect the really obvious great camera finds, if any, are sold elsewhere, but random mostly 50's and 60's, sometimes newer cameras are cheap. It's just a bit of a lottery on how well they work. My nearly perfect condition - I suspect, still shooting the first roll - was 20€ with a near perfect condition Helios 44-4M 58mm f/2. I kinda regret not buying an Ihagee Exa 1a that seemed to be functional, and I am tempted to buy a 15€ Agfa Ambi Silette that has shutter button not bouncing back up, but shutter itself working if you pull it up. Maybe I can repair it, maybe not, 15€ isn't much. Finland is a funky country in terms of these old cameras. This place has a lot of East and West German stuff and Russian stuff, but overall there seems to be great availability in Japanese stuff too. I inherited a, sadly broken, Konica C35 since in my family Japanese cameras seem to have been the thing rather than European ones.
that is true, and it is strange how families did seem to gravitate towards either Japanese or European cameras. If you can get something, even if not in great cosmetic condition for a good price it is worth the gamble
I mean for the price that you can get these soviet cameras for, you can just get them CLAd and it will still be cheaper than the western counterpart. They're fully mechanical, so the electronics won't die on you in the future. I have a Pentacon Six, that has been CLAd and it's a beast. The zenit I got from my grandpa still works just fine, the shutter speeds are definitely not accurate, but the camera was never serviced either. In comparison, my minolta xe5's metering broke down and noone will fix it, cause it's electronic. To summarize my point, if you got a camera from your relative, just shoot pics on it, get it serviced, make it fun! Want something that will work and you can get serviced anywhere, get something that's fully mechanical and made in the west.
All very good points. I think the issue for most beginners is that finding a camera from a relative is very special and then find out it doesn't work is disheartening so if people are more aware of what to look for it might make it slightly less so.
Controversially, I'd also add the Pentax K1000 to this list. I have a Japanese one which is lovely, but they are currently far too expensive (I was lucky). As an alternative quality basic SLR, I'd recommend the far cheaper Pentax SP500 or SP1000. They also have a nice obstacle free hand grip, but compared to the K1000, they are all Japanese made, they use the lovely all metal takumar lenses, and the stop down metering provides a depth of field preview.
i made a separate video talking about cameras i recommend and the Spotmatic's are one i strongly recommend, the Japanese K1000's are lovely but are getting pricey
It's a bit biased to list all of the most common cameras. It makes statistical sense that they would be broken more often. You don't have a tally in your head of the ones that are still working.
I have made a separate video listing cameras I do recommend people look into. Having worked in a camera shop for the last nearly 9 years it's a large part of my job to know what is likely working and worth putting a warranty on when resold. Just to list a few; Nikon FM/FM2, FE/FE2, Olympus OM-1/1n/OM-2, Pentax K1000/KX, Minolta XD-5/7, Nikkormat FT/FTN/FT2/FT3, Ricoh KR-5/XR-1, Pentax Spotmatics, are some of the cameras I see often which are still in great working condition and would recommend to beginners
Don't you think that you see so many faulty examples of these particular camera models because these models are now popular and therefore there are more of them in circulation? I think it's obvious that old cameras break down more often and it's hard to find spare parts for them, but does that mean they're not worth recommending?)
it is true the there were more in circulation of these models, however in my other video covering cameras i recommend many of those were also made in high volumes with cameras such as the Pentax K1000 which was one of the longest in production cameras ever
I actually like the OM-10 (owned a few, as well as OM-1 and OM-2) hehe. Yes, OM-10 with the manual adapter is pretty much equivalent to OM-2. Being an electric camera, sure I don't expect it to outlive the OM-1. Just buy another one, after all they are cheap. Unfortunately Olympus doesn't offer something like Nikon FM3A, which is think is the most advanced manual focus 35mm SLR ever made.
i agree, but i think the problem now is that the price of an OM10 just keeps going up because it's a camera everyone recommends because they used to be cheap, now they're getting close to the same price as an OM1 it makes more sense just to get the OM1
my first experience with shooting film was inheriting my mum's Pentax ME Super from ~1979. had some issue with the advance lever and just an overall bad experience. bought another on ebay, issues and problems came in even faster. camera repair shop quoted me for over £250 each, so now i've given up on ME Supers... (also that plastic exposure mode changer is terrible!!)
yeah that all sounds about right, such a shame they break down as they are good little cameras but just so prone to faults, hope you found a good replacement
@@MaxLamdin currently looking for one and your recent video has been really helpful! it's been a while since i've been in the market. hopefully going to try pick up a nikomat or an olympus om-1 for a manual type experience.
Really great video! So pleased RUclips recommended this. Can I ask, would you put the OM-10 in the same bag as the OM-20? And with these, are the electronics starting to fail?
the OM-10 is much more reliable than the OM-20/30/40/101 as these had a fatal flaw with internal magnets which would fuse together after time! avoid them at all costs!
@@MaxLamdinoooooh dear, I bought on on Sunday 😂 Will shop for another as it came with a tonne of lenses and accessories making buying another camera not too much of an issue. And thank you for that response!!!
ah sorry to hear that, but if it came with lenses and accessories that's always a bonus and worth holding on to, a nice OM-1/OM-2 would be more reliable and uses the same lenses
@@MaxLamdin Thank you and thank you so much for your time. For what it's worth thought the video was excellent and it's rare a video without all the mics and 'production' a la LGR, Linus etc. keep my attention but you and what you had to say (and how it was delivered) really kept me watching. Have subscribed and look forward to more!!
FM10 is fully mechanical and would be easier to get repaired, it's also a lot newer than the ME Super which is a good thing, if the meter is working i'd definitely go for the FM10
Soviet cameras, yeah, they are a bit weird. You either get a very good or a very bad model. There is nothing in between. Except for Lomo Lubitels. Those are indestructible. But GDR cameras are on a different level. I have a few of them and not a single one is broken. They also feel very differently in your hands.
i agree they do feel different to hold however i see Soviet and GDR cameras on a day to day basis that are faulty in some way, usually the GDR cameras are later as many of the early ones were built much better however i wouldn't recommend the earlier cameras to beginners as they can be finicky to get used too
@@MaxLamdin the problem with the later made cameras is that they were basically left behind by the Japanese manufacturers and in order to stay relevant, they tried to develop cameras with the same functionality to compete. But try doing that without money and other resources. For the 80s models there was a saying similar to „broken by default“ 😅. The earlier ones were copies of the war and pre-war German cameras or slight modifications of that design, so no problem there. But of course, often times they did not even have a light meter or were then later equipped with „kind of working“ light meters. If you use an external light meter that should not bother you.
that's true, by the 80s the machinery they had 'acquired' was outdated and the staff that had originally worked in the factories had either retired or passed and they just couldn't keep up with the jumps in technology. It seems that their tactic was to flood the market with sub-par cameras which is why you see things like the MTL/BC- ranges so frequently
What canon FD system camera you think is the most reliable? I have an AE1 which is jammed, but the 50mm lens on it is in perfect condition, I was wondering if I could get a better body to use it, maybe an FTb?
that's a great question, the FTb is a lovely fully mechanical camera, the meters often don't work and even if they do it can be tricky to find the battery for them. If you're comfortable using fully manual settings their great with an external light meter (or phone app). The F-1 bodies are also lovely and built like tanks but are quite a bit more expensive due to their "professional" build
I have a Zorki and a FED both are just decorations at this point. They did work for a while and I did like using them, I'm a sucker for rangefinder, they ultimately stopped.
jeezus F###in' Christ - I have four AE1+P and they all continue to function flawlessly - my favourite is the most worn of them all. Pentax: I have ME, MX & ME Super - each awesome and the K mount lenses are fabulous. note: the original OM1 was an attempt by Olympus to emulate the Pentax MX
my video is not the be all or end all of cameras, it is possible to get AE-1's or ME Supers which work well, however from my experience they are prone to failing due to their often heavy use and they do not offer a straight forward user experience to new comers who are looking to learn manual exposure etc. Due to their popularity and high volume of units when current they are easy to find now whereas there are other more reliable alternatives which use the same great lenses from those systems
also worth noting that the OM-1 predates the MX by 4 years and was actually more of an attempt to fill a gap in the enthusiast market for a smaller reliable SLR
Zorki 4 is pretty terrible.....think better off with a Zenith 11 like mine as long as light cell is covered up etc etc... Trip 35 can be repaired.. Keep mine covered up....
I've found the Zorki and Zenith cameras to be too unreliable, if you can find a good one they work well but you have to go through so many to get a good one
I avoid 80's electronic cameras as a rule. I do have 3 Prakticas that were bought new and still work today, so I wouldn't avoid a Praktica. There a advantages to some of the Russian or GDR cameras, they are generally as cheap as chips, can be easily cannibalised, and are usually easy to repair....if you know what you are buying.
Good advice however feel that many people just getting into film photography do not know what they are buying which results in them abandoning film before they've had a real go at it
@@MaxLamdin I think the wider question is one of support. I agree with your advice to buy something simple, reliable and cheap(er). However, as film cameras age and the expertise to service them and repair is lost, many folk, even those following the advice, will either: end up with a repair beyond the camera value, have to buy an ever more expensive replacement, or give up film photography all together. This while the interest in film is growing, film cameras are becoming rarer, and prices for the simplest are rising. So there needs to be a regrowing of the film industry if the interest is to be sustained. Anyone for a Pentax? It's a start at least!
Totally agree with you there, it may be hard going for a little while longer while Pentax see how the 17 does before pushing on with the rest of their line🤞🏼
Of course, everyone who has and loves their camera on this list will rise up in heated reply, but keep in mind that this list is directed to new users, just now getting into film photography. The question is, do you buy a camera (or into a system) which is known to have systemic issues, or do you buy into another which does not. It's a question of probabilities. The some of the cameras on his list may be popular, and they may be working for numerous owners, but the odds based on past performance are that they will either not hold up, or they will cost more to keep in working order than many other cameras. The Canon AE-1 models did not age that well. I watched a friend go totally into Pentax M-series models for self and wife in the 1970s, but ten years later, they were all gone, with a total switch to Canon. He was always shy about why the switch, but I know that he started having Pentax body issues and elected to bail rather than buy his repairman a new boat. Now I'm repairing the squeaks in his two AE-1 bodies. I've used Nikon SLRs all of my long life. I've never had an issue with one, but I'd never buy an EM either. For what it's worth, if I have to take one camera up the Amazon for 3 months in the jungle, it would be my Nikkormat FT3, old world durability with new world lenses, while my favorite F100 would stay at home.
I think you need to add the "but if the price is right" to the equation. I have a Canon A1 and two AE-1 programs. None of them i paid more than $50 for at thrift shops. They all work great. If one breaks ill buy another for $50 to replace it.
Nah man canon ae1 has been the most reliable camera ever it’s the one I keep in my car at all times in the summer heat and I throw it in my back pack never had an issue with it also the photos look great
you can get good ones which work reliably and the lenses are really good however if you pick one up that's either had a lot of use or hasn't been looked after it can be a nightmare
Hi, I'm a bit new to this photography world. I just bought a Asahi Pentax Spotmatic Motordrive or something and I was wondering is it any good or I made the wrong choice for starting my photography journey. I have no knowledge at photography, I don't know how the ISO/ASA works or which lenses should I use. I'm considering to pair my camera with the Industar 50-2 Lens, It's because, it is quite on my budget. Because it had no lens when I first bought it. But if any of you guys have any recommendations about lenses that uses the M42 mounting that would be awesome. Cheerio!
any M42 lens can be used it will mainly come down to your style of photography but a 50mm is always a good choice, Pentax 50mm lenses will be better built and will be sharper but will be more expensive, if you're on a budget stick to the Industar for now and see how you like the results
@@reynardsetiawanz8778 Probably the best 50mm lens is the Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar MC 50mm 2.8, which also is one with the closest minimal focus distance of just 35 cm. And they don't cost too much.
Hi New sub :).. You did not mention the Pentax Program models . I have a Program Plus and its working fine at the moment but yeah I got it cheap and its in almost new looking condition so I use it and know that if it dies its done lol. Just two stupid buttons to change the shutter speeds lol. But my Spotmatic YES I love that camera :).. Also the Trip models I was not interested for the reason I did not like the metering system. Now the RC model I did get and yep the meter in that camera does not work lol. BUT you can use that model fully mechanical without a battery and the needles in the view finder still move showing the current shutter speed and F value.. Sunny 16 or I just often use a cell phone app or external light meter :). I own 3 Exakta VX models.. Two Pre War and one post.. The post war one is ehhh and it needs shutter cloth, The two Pre War ones also needed major work done. I repair and calibrate all my cameras so one of the pre war models ended up a winter project a couple of years ago and I completely fixed it and I love that camera... Also the lenses I got on those cameras are legendary lenses that people claim are some of the best lenses made.. You can remove the locking pin on those lenses and slip a M42 thread ring over the lens and tighten the set screws on the adapter ring and tadda you can screw it onto any M42 camera like my Spotmatic :).
the RC is a really nice little camera for the reasons you described and one i often do recommend. You're totally right about the Pentax Program cameras too, they're nice when they work but can die at any time
yeah that's true, but east Germany was basically a satellite state for the USSR and they did share a lot of resources and machinery, the earlier GDR cameras were better as they used the pre-war machinery but it got worse when they had to start innovating by themselves
@@MaxLamdin England und das britische Königshaus sind Satelitten des deutschen Adels ;-) Wer etwas immer wiederholt, das einfach falsch ist, macht es dadurch nicht wahr.
the FE was built to a higher quality than the A1, the FE also uses simpler electronics as well as generally fewer electronics, no 8-segment display to fail, no notorious shutter cough and no dodgy battery door
There's way more lenses for the Nikon as well. The more exotic focal lengths and speeds are relatively affordable compared to other mounts because they made so many f-mount lenses for decades and the focus turns the "wrong way" according to cinematographers so they don't want them
Sorry, Pentacon, Zeiss Jena und Praktika sind keine russischen Kameras - das sind deutsche Kameras, die in der DDR entwickelt und produziert wurden. Man sollte sich schon richtig informieren, ehe man etwas in ein Video packt. UK wäre jetzt nicht so weit weg.... Auch die Meinung über die A-1 und Verwandte AE-1 sind nicht so das Problem, wie du darstellen möchtest. Für dich ist wohl eine Pentax 17 oder eine Rollei 35 AF etwas: Neu mit Garantie. Mit solchen Fehlern und Fehleinschätzungen werden die Abonennten nicht so schnell mehr.
That is somewhat similar to saying that Kiev cameras are not Russian as the factory was located in what is now Ukraine. The GDR was a satellite state of the USSR and after the captured factory workers retired or passed quality control and innovation fell as they were fed by the same infrastructure as the Zorki and Zenith cameras which have a similarly poor reputation. Using stolen documents and machinery which had been used to make good cameras, does not instantly produce equally good cameras (as they found out in the GDR and why Reid in England didn't last). The issue with most of the Canon FD models was in their mass production and wide spread nature, due to them being a more affordable alternative to other Japanese cameras of the time they were often heavily used and thus have suffered over the years. Most of the problems with them come from their aging circuitry which can be extremely difficult if not impossible to repair. Earlier models like the FTb or EF (FD mount) bodies didn't suffer from as many issues as they were more refined as Canon tried to compete with higher grade cameras such as the Nikkormat range rather than the ME Super or Olympus OM10. I have a lot of thoughts on the Pentax 17 and Rollei 35 cameras, they are more appealing due to their newer construction however there are too many limitations of the Pentax 17 for it to be a worthwhile investment, hopefully the revenue they generate from this camera will be enough for them to continue their endeavours with making a 'full frame' version in the not too distant future however Pentax (Ricoh) seem reluctant to make something that customers wants. The Rollei 35 is a better offering but with it only being available for a few days as of writing this it's too early to tell what its short comings might be however at least their off to a good start having listened to consumer feedback and requests rather than making something they think people will want. As for their respective prices, the Pentax is hugely overpriced for what it offers while the Rollei seems perfectly priced if it can live up to what people expect of it (from what I've seen so far its on track to do that). But thank you for your input.
As I understand it the better USSR manufacturer was the Zavod Arsenal factory in Kiev, Ukraine. The Kiev rangefinders were produced there using the same tooling and staff as Zeiss Contax in Germany because the USSR stole the tooling and essentially kidnapped the staff from Germany after WWII and the unconditional surrender of the Nazi Regime! Edit: my understanding is that the lubricants used by the USSR were inferior and dried up which causes lots of problems. Is that a root cause you are aware of?
i've heard about the lubricants being an issue before, they go gummy and jam everything up, i believe there are other issues but mostly they are due to parts wearing quicker than other manufacturers i.e. gears/springs/etc.
Cheers 😊. Your background blows ;-) ! Set up a more ambient vibe with better lighting mate. Great content. Not so great visuals. My channel is the opposite lol
I wouldn't lump A1s in with AE-1s. A1s were proper professional cameras and they're built like tanks. The shutter squeak that they have is easily fixed yourself with a syringe of lubricant. They just run and run!
you're correct, the cough can be repaired unless it's too far gone and the mirror box gears have worn. There are a lot more things to go wrong with the A1 such as the 8-segment display and the battery door on all of those cameras is prone to breaking
Agreed. The A-1 is in a different league than the AE-1.
I have 2 of them!! Great cameras.
Same here I have one, and I fixed the squeak my self a really easy thing to do, I replace de light seals and that is it, I love it and it is build to last for sure.
I also used to work in a camera shop and I would largely agree with your choices. My Canon A1 is pretty good, so is my Nikon EM. My first SLR was a Pentax ME Super, which soon developed its trademark fault, which is a mirror stuck in the up position. My recommendation for a good user would be an Olympus OM2n - well made and lenses are plentiful and not too pricey
good suggestion with the OM-2n they are pretty reliable
Funny that I stumble on this video, I own a Canon AE-1 Program with no squeal and no issues and an accurate meter, and a recently CLAed Zorki 4 rangefinder. So far so good... I love my FD lenses, the only issue I ever had on my AE-1 was that I drained a battery shooting star trails in bulb mode with a cable release. Bought an FTb QL for super cheap to have a mechanical option.
Interesting to hear what people working on camera repair shops thinks about various models
The FTb is actually a really solid alternative if you aren't too concerned about having a working meter which tend to go over time. Another later option which is worth checking out is the EF body (confusing as it takes FD lenses).
@@MaxLamdin ah ah, thanks for the recommendations, though I do not need a 3rd FD body in my life I think 😜
Olympus trip35
Zorki 4
...I love mine. 2 keepers in my collection.
if you get working ones they're great
I respect that you put an opinion out there, and your data sample cant be ignored. I have collected about 5 AE-1 programs, and 4 of them developed problems. The last one got the squeak, but that is not that hard to fix. I really dont like how they work either, but that is just personal preference. I also wouldn't recommend one based on my experience.
Interesting comment on the ME Super. I have had 4 ME Supers (I am a camera collector) and only really had issues with the first one (which was my first real camera my parents bought for me in 1983) Not seen any issues with the electronics, other than dirty contacts on the exposure compensation dial that is simple enough to fix with some deoxit. I have actually had a lot more issues with the SuperA/Super Program. Of the three I had only one worked properly - One was DOA, while the other worked for a short time and then died. My sample size is obviously a lot less than a camera repair place - but I would add that at least one camera repair youtuber I watch likes the ME Super because it is relatively easy to repair. As you can tell I am probably biased because it was my first camera 😀
I've never been tempted by the OM10 - but would agree with your assessment - probably better off with the OM20 or OM40 if you want a cheapish OM camera.
Cameras I would avoid? Any model that is super hyped, and massively over priced, i.e Olympus Mu/Muii, Contax G2, Contax T2.
Thank you for your input that's interesting to see. From what i've heard from a few repairers is that the ME Super used a cow hide washer in the mirror box which over time dries out and either crumbles or goes sticky, this then usually causes the mirror to lock up and is a pain to replace as it's incredibly difficult to source cow hide washers these days😂 would be interesting to know if there is a simpler replacement available.
I would discourage people from the OM20/30/40 more than I would the OM10 as they have magnets controlling the mirror and shutter mechanisms which have a horrible habit of fusing together, again, getting these magnets replaces is often more costly than the camera is worth.
It all kind of comes down to personal preference, some cameras make work well for some people but not for others, i think in the case of the ME super it also comes down to climate as that apparently plays of a role in how quickly they deteriorate
@@MaxLamdin Was also thinking climate - tends to be pretty dry in Australia, so perhaps that is a factor. While we are on Pentax the LX is probably a model I would caution against, unless you are super confifent about the particular camera and its history. Fantasic camera, but has known issues with sticky mirror caused by failing lubricant. I recall getting one repaired about 5 years ago, and it wasnt cheap. Any of the 'MZ' cameras are to be avoided because of the failing plastic gears.
LX is a good call, so many mirror and shutter issues with them and so expensive to get repaired! which is a shame as they're such beautiful cameras externally.
The whole MZ line was never going to take off and I think Pentax knew that, they were basically issuing recalls and offering free repairs from day 0
When I worked in a camera shop in 1989, we were finding A1 and AE-1's with broken shutters coming in. To be honest I'm surprised they've lasted this long!
That is still a reality today with them just locking up sometimes. Seems that bodies which have been in constant use hold up better but I'm genuinely surprised they've lasted as long as they have
I bought a practica mtl5b which got its mirror stuck up the day after I bought it. Moved onto a spotmatic and haven’t looked back since.
excellent choice with the spotmatic, the prakticas can just be flakey
I am a Nikon 35mm photographer and can say that the best Nikons that I used are the Nikon F2, Nikon F3 and Nikon F5. These are solid professional cameras. I would recommend the F2 over the F3 just because it’s mechanical. I would also recommend the Nikon S2, S3, S4 and SP rangefinders, they are highly reliable and can still be services as well. I also recommend the Bronica SQ series 6x6, a very reliable and affordable medium format system. If one has the money go for a good Hasselblad 500 CM or later camera body. I can also recommend Rolleiflex; get any of those cameras serviced and you will have a workhorse.
The F2 is definitely the most reliable out of the F bodies you listed, i hear the S range shutters can be a problem to repair if they are damaged but i'm not sure if that's any particular model or all of them? I would always recommend the Bronica systems for anyone looking to invest in a medium format system and have covered them before on my channel in other videos
What about fm and fm2 ? I love those even more than F2 and f1
@@CarlosTikitaka I hear great things about those cameras too.
@holyjesus8603 From the mid-1970s through mid 80s, a bought Nikkormats, then FM and FE models.The "mats are relatively simpler cameras used the Copal Square shutter, which must be the best, most durable focal plane shutter ever made. The Fm and FE models replaced them because the buying market shifted to smaller, lighter cameras with more electronic features, lights, etc. While the FM is strongly built compared to cameras of that era from other makers, the "Mats are unequaled.
Good info!
I agree on the Pentax ME Super, mine has the usual issues with the mirror not snaoping back...but I pmly paid £10 for it and it came with a nice 50mm lens.
The camera is now a future project.😳
The Olympus Trip 35 is a bit more robust than you give it credit, mine is still functioning fine and still looks brand new. My olympus Pen EE which is even older still (1960s) and has the same selenium cell technology and it functions great.
I've added your channel, always good to connect with other retro camera content creators.
£10 is good for the lens, the ME Super is known for having that issue as there is a small cow hide washer inside which deteriorates and is hard to replace.
Trip 35's can be good if they've either been stored in a case or have their original lens cap on, unfortunately if they do not then they likely do not work
@MaxLamdin There is a way to 'regenerate' the selenium cell, it's much like a battery cell with a copper disc coated in selenium, I think what happens when exposed to light over time the cell oxidises and doesn't produce the correct current, it appears to stop working, cleaning the cell restores the current.
There is also a hack to get the 1/200th shutter and use the flash exposure settings to manually select the exposure, a bit fiddly but means a bad selenium cell can be worked around...
true but unless you're going to do the necessary repairs/modifications yourself it's often not worth paying a repairer to do
@MaxLamdin True, often the cost or repair far outweighs the value of the camera 📷 in the case of the Trip 35 ,they are so plentiful, if mine ever failed I'd just buy another, I only paid £40 for mine.
I certainly wouldn't pay the crazy £150+ prices some I've seen go for with a colourful skin! 😳😲
Interestingly, my Trip 35 spent some time on display, without lens cap, luckily it was in a darkened room, doesn't seem to have negatively affected it, as it works just fine.
I'm just staggered my 1960s Olympus Pen EE is still functioning perfectly, I guess they're were built to last back then.😲😁
Just playing (on loan) with a Pentax K1000. So far so good. Just borrowed it and I’m on my first roll of film. Back in the day I loved my Canon AE1 and was heartbroken when it was stolen some 15 years later.
love the K1000 it was the first proper SLR i used after someone lent it to me too!
Shame the AE1's do break down and they can usually be serviced but often times it's not economic to have done
My A1 is still sweet and as a good as when it was being used regularly in the 1980s. Showing its age but I do recommend the A1.
they can be good cameras if used reliably, often if they haven't been used which is becoming more and more common is when they begin to show issues
@@MaxLamdin Das tun ALLE Kameras, egal welcher Hersteller es ist. Also musst du vor ALLEN Kameras warnen ;-) Oder selbst doch etwas noch dazu lernen und besser differenzieren.
You know GDR is east Germany which was not a part of soviet union (USSR, CCCP)? Prakticas and Pentacons are much better quality than Russian cameras like FEDs and Zenits. They have some great lenses like Flektogon, Sonnar, Biometar but the bodies are way worse than Japan production. Having shot on both, I think there is vast difference between GDR and USSR cameras. My system of choice is Minolta SRT. Great lens selection and fully mechanical bodies with CdS lightmeters.
some of the lenses are amazing! but being M42 you're usually better off putting them on a Spotmatic and K-mount body with an adapter. The GDR was a satellite state of the USSR, most of their supplies for making cameras came from there too
@@MaxLamdin it was actually the other way around, most of the machinery used in camera manufacturing in the USSR were from the DDR, especially right after ww2 because they had to give a lot of their hard industry to the USSR as war reparations.
also, yes the DDR was a satelite state as in that the country was dependent on the USSR economy and thus toed the USSR line, but it is incorrect to say that the DDR didn't for a large part act independently.
on the topic of cameras from the DDR, I've overal had good experiences with them and the problems with them seem to be moreso caused by aging, and I am willing to bet it's the same from the cameras coming from the USSR
@@MaxLamdin Mit der Kamera-Geschichte kennst du dich schlicht nicht aus, und mit der Technik im Inneren wohl auch viel zu wenig. Deutschland war schon vor dem 2.Weltkrieg führend in der Kameraherstellung - die Maschinen für die Herstellung gingen tatsächlich nach dem 2.Weltkrieg in die UDSSR und in der DDR fing man ganz neu an. Ach ja, wieviele gute Kameras kommen denn aus UK? Muss man schon lange darüber nachdenken.... Und selbst die UDSSR-Kameras sind nicht so schlecht wie ihr Ruf.
I can agree with this: caveat being that if it's tested, working and sold by someone who is honest and knows the gear, any of these can still be a good buy. Some of my favourite photos were with a humble little Pentax ME.
Some alternatives and reliable counterparts:
Pentax ME --> get a K1000 or MX instead
Canon AE1, AV1,AT1 --> Get an FTB instead
Olympus OM10,20,30,40 --> Get an OM1 instead
Russian cameras --> always get a serviced one tested and working, and they should be reliable
Happy shooting!
All excellent options, thank you
Hey! We finally found Waldo 😊
i was going for Odlaw but i'll take that😂
I largely agree but perhaps not so much about early Praktica’s. I’m now also finding that a bunch of previously un hailed Japanese manufacturers were producing some rather excellent cameras which are still going strong. I’m talking about Cosina and Chinon SLRs and lenses.
Early Prakticas are better but they can still be tricky to service
the Cosina cameras are actually fairly good as are some of the Ricoh cameras
Came here to see if the answer was "all of them."
surprisingly not!
Many are going super strong and will continue. Not everything is built to the crappy standards of things these days that break in a year!
I think shooting film be dead if it wasn't for the die hard street photographers trying to justify spending thousands on their film leicas .
I mean is it worth paying all that money for film & developing it only to scan it and change it to digital in LR anyway .
Holaaaaa !!!
I have tried 10 film cameras and I narrowed it down to the Pentax KP1000 and Olympus OM1.
both excellent choices, fully mechanical, simple light meters, very reliable👌🏼
I bought a Canon A-1 in '92 and I still use it occasionally to this day. And so far it still doesn't have any issues for far even though I took it to Iraq and took a lot of pics during my one-year stay.
The only issue that without a battery it's just a mere paper weight. So far I still love my A-1.
they can work well and often do so when used more frequently, it's when they're left for long periods that they freeze up and develop problems
I agree with all your comments, with exception of the canon, I collect cameras and the observations especially with the Zeinit and Me super The latter being a shame as it was a lovely sized camera and nice when working, Equally the OM10 but it wasn’t up to the standard of its parentage.
The canons have issues, but I find more repairable and more working!
Generally the Canon's are pretty good, the issues usually stem from being kept in poor condition and not being looked after. Broken battery doors is also very common and they're incredibly are to get replaced
Carl Zeiss Jena doesn’t deserve to be on the list, although they mostly produced lenses. Their lenses are exceptional, i got a 35, 50 and 135mm set for my Spotmatic, prefer them to Takumars because of really small minimal focus distances. They are also really well built, only common issue is stiff focus ring which can easily be checked and isn’t too hard to fix. CZJ Tessar is a great beginner friendly lens that can be bought for cheap. Also the Helios 44 is copy of their design, Biotar.
the lenses are a different story, yes they are often very good optics, however again can be known to have issues with quality control. I've seen lenses with bubbles in the glass before but good copies will stay good. The lubricants used in a lot of the East German and USSR cameras and lenses dries up and causes the stiffness
@@MaxLamdin Das von dir genannte Problem gibt es bei allen Kameras, kein Schmiermittel bleibt ewig gleitfähig. Reinigen und neu schmieren ist nichts besonderes.
I shoot weddings on the AE-1 along with my Pentax 645 and love it, my clients love it and don't have any issues (yet) Only issue was I needed to replace the seals in them. It actually makes me happy to shoot the older camera than a more modern 35mm camera. Even with my digitial cameras (up to a7iv) for the past 20 years I only touch a few things, Aperture, ISO and Shutter. Granted AF Eye detect i use, but apart from that, throw all other features out, I never use them, I just like shoot the old school way and an older 35mm SLR is so much fun.
they're great little cameras to use (when they work), not the best for learning the basics of exposure but the lenses are solid👌🏼
haha my main 35mm is a Canon A1 that coughs like it's dying, and next to it on my shelf is a dead ME Super! Good video, olympus trip does suck, olympus 35RC is a flawless camera that is much much better.
there are ways to fix the cough if it's not too far gone, sure there are videos online covering this. The 35RC is a really good little camera they should have been included in my cameras that are worth buying!
I've tried a load of film cameras, I loved the Canon A1 but wasn't a fan of the digital display for the lightmeter. I've had two Canon AE-1 and both had faults. I think the Pentax K1000 is overrated for what it features. For a lot less money you can get the Pentax ME Super with more bang for your money. The Olympus OM2N was a joy to use with its large viewfinder and slim design. Since film is getting more expensive, I am slimming down my collection and bought the Canon 5D Classic for them "film-like" colours which are incredibly pleasing to the eye.
i can see what you mean about the A1 and K1000, the ME Super is known to have faults and can just give up the ghost especially the lights in the viewfinder but the if you got a good one that works stick with it
I would somewhat disagree with the general advice on Russian cameras. They are really spotty investments - if you dont know the condition. I own about 5 that have been or I have cleaned myself and have enjoyed all thoroughly. Im fairly unsure if my praktica lb2 can even break. I do agree on the canon system though. Automatic exposure is somewhat overrated, and in my opinion doesn't encourage good habits. If a new photographer picks up an AE1 and throws it on auto they have very little incentive to learn about exposure, shutter speed, depth of field, and will in all likelihood have their film processed and scanned. What about film in that process do you learn about, that you shouldn't open the back? I've seen too many people shooting repackaged tungsten film in broad daylight to conclude that the automation and fetishization of film does anyone much good.
with the technical know how to clean/repair cameras yourself yes the soviet cameras can be great workhorses, however as a video aimed at people looking to pick up their first 35mm SLR the russian stuff can usually cause more trouble than they're worth. Full agree with your AE1 viewpoint
@@MaxLamdin Agreed!
Ok, i have to disagree very strongly here. The OM10, yes the manual adapter is odd, but that camer is amazing and is still used by many professionals today and it makes a really great backup camera, not to mention access to some of the best lenses ever produced. The OM10 is also one of the best camera for anyone new to film photography. If you had said the 20 or 30 or whatever, i might have agreed. As for the Trip 35, you are just plain wrong about pretty much everything you said. The selenium meters rarely ever die. i service these cameras and I've never found a broken meter. Mostly they are just unused and a bit stiff and after a simple clean they work 100% again. They're also one of the easiest cameras to work on I've ever come across. i could show a kid how to fix them in a day. Sorry, but you are very, very wrong on that one. After reaching the end of this video, I can't help but feel this might be a bit of an snobbish list, or at least clickbait. I hope that newcomers to photography don't take your advice and just use any camera that works, even if it's a soviet camera.
thanks for the input, i'm always wary or both OM10s and Trip 35s after seeing 10x more of them broken or failing than working over the past 10 years, if a Trip35 doesn't have a lens cap or isn't in a case then there's a 95% chance that the meter is dead
@@MaxLamdin Again, the meter won't be dead. I'm not sure where this myth has come from, but those meters have insane lifespans. They do not die unless someone has been in there and physically snapped something or cut something. those meters are amazing, and they're fully mechanical. Open up a trip and see for yourself, the design is outstanding. Buy a broken one, open it up and see how quickly it will come back to life after a clean. they don't need a lens cap either. If you put a lens cap on, the charge from the meter drains and you need to give it time to charge up again. Yet another myth that seems to be going around. I don't know where you're getting your info, but I'm sorry, it's way off from the facts. i buy "broken meter" trips all the time. i open them up, clean the insides and they work again, 100% of the time. Literally never found a broken one and I've worked on a lot! Yes, a lot of people out there reskin them and call it a refurb, but that's not the same as a real clean. That there is the only reason to be weary of how much you pay. But I suggest buing a broken one and giving a clean a shot. They don't need special tools and they're incredibly simple inside.
next time i come across a broken one i'll have to give it a try
@@MaxLamdinIt's worth is. i just fixed two this morning, that's how easy it is.
I don’t like to be rude to people…
But I can’t believe that this guy actually really worked in a camera store.
When you listen to what he’s saying I can conclude that he was not the maintenance guy that was in leading position…
I agree with you and hope the same that beginner film photographer’s won’t listen to this guy and believe what he is suggesting.
I am sorry Max, don’t take it personal.
But it is just not right what you telling here.
Sorry man…
I love the Nikon EM 😅 guess I’m lucky to have a good one
yeah you definitely can get good ones and bad ones, it's more about being aware they can just die sometimes
@@MaxLamdin I agree.
I worked in a camera shop in the early ‘90s, and even then, you had to be careful when buying a used Canon AE-1/A-1 because the cloth curtain shutters had a tendency to develop issues. Problem cameras made a sneezing sound instead of a clean click when the shutter was released; we actually called it the AE-1 Sneeze. That said, if you can find an AE-1 or especially an A-1 (Canon’s prosumer model at the time, positioned just below the F-1) in great working condition, they’re good cameras. F-1s are still fairly pricey, so if you don’t want to spring for one of those, another good FD-mount choice is a T-70 or T-90 in good condition. Nice thing about those is they have metal blade shutters so tend not to get sticky in the same way as some of the curtain shutters.
interesting i've always referred to it as a shutter cough but it does sound like a sneeze! the earlier FD bodies are also worth considering for reliability, they have fewer bells and whistles but more mechanical which is generally a good thing
What about the the Canon FTB a really well built Canon similar to the Nikkormats both of which I own and am able to comment on.
If you are going to film you need to learn to repair them or know some one who can. Film camera's are getting older and older with little to replace them. If you are dedicated to film, you will need to buy a few of any of the camera's on your list or ones not on the list. I buy the not so good condition and refurbish them myself. Careful about the top mint camera's on Ebay as they can need repairs too. Spotmatics and the early K film camera's KX,KM,K2.... are my favorites. Don't be afraid of ME Supers or ME's as they are great cameras. Zenits are not as bad as you make them out. Zorki-6 are great camera's (if you can get one not abused) and you can use Canon LTM lenses on it. There are plenty of options but be prepared to spend money. Do your research.
true, being able to do your own repairs does make a lot of difference and the vast majority (if not all) film cameras will be in need of at least servicing soon. The main issue comes when people are buying cameras blind (such as eBay as you mentioned) and are unsure how to correctly check all the functions on a camera. Thank you for the recommendations you've listed and doing the research is definitely the most important part of it all
@@MaxLamdin Solltest du bitte dann auch mal berücksichtigen und Recherche durchführen ehe man über Kameras redet, die man nicht mal dem richtigen Land zuordnen kann.
Nice to see that your 'condemned' list didn't include the once popular Ricoh range of SLR's. I have three of them (KR5, KR10 and KR10 Super). I bought the KR10 new in 1982 and it's worked flawlessly ever since. It now has a 50mm f1.4 Pentax (K-mount compatible) lens. I keep the KR5 in my car all the time 'just in case'. The polycarbonate body may put some people off, but being as I'm not taking them into a war zone, who cares?
the KR5 is a particularly nice little camera especially for the price, nice easy to use match needle meter which i'm sure works great with the K-mount lenses
Helpful video. Thank you
thank you, glad you found it useful
The canon A1 is a tank. I never saw one broken. Mine has 42 years. Works like first day........
As I say in the video, it is possible to get good ones and have them work perfectly, it does help if they are regularly used compared to being sat idle for decades which is the case for most people just getting into film who are picking cameras up at boot fairs and in charity shops
the nikon EM was not built to be judged today the series e 28 mm lens is same as its big brother if used manual wind it still works its great little Aperture priority as nikon always favoured light!
true it was never designed to last as long as it has, again, if working they can be alright but there is the potential for them to break down at any time
Nice to see Minolta didn't get listed. So often bad mouthed i don't believe they're as problematic as people say (apart from the old capacitor problem in X700 and family)
i have a soft spot for the X-700/etc. even with their issues, the older Minolta cameras are usually pretty solid
I have 32 vintage cameras, all of the not recommended here, and they all work fine, I have issues with digitals instead...
digital stuff can be a whole other headache sometimes...
good video! wish people made more honest videos like this
thank you for the kind words☺️
LEICA CM !!! Lovely camera has a manufacturing defect. 100% broken any time!
YES! the god damn flex-cable! Can't believe people still swear by that camera it's trash!
as someone who purchased the OM-10 just a couple months ago, I 100% agree that the manual adapter is such a weird thing to have lol. Love the camera but I literally bought it so that I dont have to use that manual adapter for it, ever
was such a weird accessory to make, never made sense to me
Pentax Spotmatic/K1000, the only thing that’ll be dodgy is the spot meter. But otherwise it’s the one I recommend most starting off. Slap a KEKS meter on top and you’re good to go. Aren’t terribly expensive either.
that's an excellent recommendation with the KEKS meter! love it
If you mean Spotmatic lightmeters, then yes the CdS cells degrade a little over the years. However the circuit design is simple and highly efficient and can easily be adjusted back into an accurate spec.
Solid advice I'd say. I briefly had a Canon A1 30-odd years ago, that had bad electronics and the typical squeaky shutter that was on its way out. Add 30 years, and I'd stay well clear of those. Nikon FE is also a definite no-no: get an FM2 or similar instead: rock solid and mechanical.
the A1 is prone to faults which is a shame, can't beat an FM/FM2 for reliability/repairability
If you can get hands on with an A1 or any camera in it's circumstance that you might want to buy then you can usually tell if it's gonna cause problems or not. My A1 is battered and bruised and has seen a lotta use but it still keeps on going with no flaws. In my experience most cameras that are gonna randomly blow up have usually long since done so already when they've been out in the world for 30 years.
that is a good point, as time goes on the cameras that work well will keep working well, however i had a lovely A1 which served me well for 2 years before coming up with an ERROR message in the viewfinder
@@MaxLamdin it may not be the problem you experienced but I know due to the uh… innovative way through which the PASM controls are selected that sometimes the light meter will read error, which is fixed by pushing the double exposure switch and then cocking the advance lever.
it cleared a few times by thumping it on a table, i wish i still had it to test your fix that sounds promising
I wouldn't have recommended to OM 10 even when it was current. Sure you can get the adapter for manual override but I think I recall it disables the exposure meter, so there's no exposure confirmation in the viewfinder. I used to teach photography back in the 1990s to 2010, and the numbers of students who'd arrive with them was incredible, mainly because a local camera shop saw an opportunity to off load them onto naïve and inexperienced learners.
100% agree about Russian cameras as well, it often amazes me to see how many "vintage camera" collectors are into them, and the Pentax K1000 for that matter. I suspect it's because they are so cheap and readily available.
K1000s are somewhat like a poor man's FM being fully mechanical with just a basic light meter, they generally require more attention but can be solid if you get a good one
i own about 14 prakticas most of which ive pulled from parts bins to find that they work completely fine, and this is without tuning.
it does happen and you can get lucky with them. Generally they start to break down from use fairly quickly
@@MaxLamdin ive had most for 15-6 plus years and have logged almost 30 rolls on each so, maybe yall just have shit luck.
doesn't sound too bad
This is my experience too. The early Praktica’s tended to be simple and well made, deriving from a long history of skilled Dresden based camera engineers. It was only really when Pentacon were ‘encouraged’ by their Soviet masters to try to compete in the micro electronics world that things started to fall apart. Perhaps the notable exception to this was the early B series, the B200 and BCX which maintained the Dresden engineering and optics but used Japanese’s chips ie before the East Germans started producing their own. I’m seeing a lot of this ‘down on late 70s early 80s SLRs’. To me it’s partly that these early attempts at micro electronics were indeed flakey everywhere and have since degraded badly, but also there seems to be a generation of camera fixers who were and are fine with the mechanicals but clueless with the electronics. Hopefully a more binary generation of fixers and tuners will emerge (see what I did there 😊).
Could you please put the list in the info section?
no problem, they've been added in the description and will work as chapters to easily navigate the video
@@MaxLamdin Thank you.
Depends on your location really. Plenty of places can fix old cameras if needed where I live in Asia. Also depends on where you buy them too and the condition of them.
true those are all variables which need to be considered
I'm happy that my Pentax ME Super does not know it's a faulty model. (And GDR was not Russia.)
it's rare but does happen, glad to hear yours is still going. "Remotely governed" is the term I've heard people use to describe the GDR
Have it rebuilt at “Pentaxs” I cannot post the address.
I'm sorry to hear about the Nikon EM. I always thought it was sensible, sturdy little fellow. But maybe it's not. It was one of the first cameras I ever used.
when they work they are good small cameras but they do have a tendency to break down as they were made with cheaper components and they have a higher likelihood of breaking down given their age
I have an AE-1 Program, OM10 and a Zenit-E. All seem to be in full working order and taking good pictures I must be lucky!
it's not impossible to get ones that are working just fine, but it's worth being aware that they can break down and go wrong at any time which can then be difficult to fix
I have a hard time seeing a camera as investment. I wouldn't use the term. Which cameras will give you good service and that you can affor. I think that's what you mean.
yeah that is a better way of putting it, provided it serves its purpose without issue it's a worthwhile purchase
Oh the smell of youth - the GDR and the USSR were two different countries. Yes later Pentacon cameras suffered from quality control issues, but many also continue working 5 or 6 decades after being built.
Yes Electronic shutter cameras are a risk - so everything from the mInolta XD7 to Leica R7 to Contax CYs to a plethy of Nikons can all die at any moment, but working versions also have reasons to be used and cherished. I have had two ME Super sold one in 1989 when I needed some cash and the other was bought in 1982 and still goes strong - bought because in that day biits didn't have an MX. But Its also a camers that predicted what would come and the push button manual is very fast in use when you use one. I also have an MX BTW - oh and a Rollei SL2000f.
Yes buyer be aware - and especially fanboys - but even electronic shutter cameras can be a great investment if by investment you mean to experience a way of making images.
the GDR being a "satellite state" of the USSR meant most their materials and machinery came from the USSR but i definitely agree with your point about going meterless, steeper learning curve but a worthwhile experience
@@MaxLamdinThe East German camera industry had long history, originated from Zeiss. Their cameras were way better than the Soviet ones. I recently looked up the prices from the late 1960s, and GDR Prakticas had higher prices than a soviet SLR camera - in some cases twice as much. I would definitely not place GDR and USSR cameras and lenses in the same category.
the Carl Zeiss Jena factory (which ended up being located in the GDR) was state owned from 1948, as the state was remotely controlled by the soviets and most of their material and machinery for manufacturing these cameras came from the USSR there are certainly a lot of similarities between the two, granted the GDR was slightly better produced than most of the soviet cameras, they are often still plagued with faults from similar poor quality control issues etc.
@@MaxLamdin that's not entirely true - whilst the Soviets did liberate a lot of the remaining machinery left after the allied fire storm of February 45 not everything was totally destroyed. Part of the reason why the eventually Contax S was built in the old Gothe and Thorsch Werkes was that it was much less damaged and much less assest stripped than ZI or MG Etc. But like Rollei and Voigtlander ZI Dresden did a remarkable job getting a camera out by 1950. The Nettall werks in Stuttgart were as badly damaged as anything in Dresden along with the major parts of both Rolled and Voigtlander.
Also many of the former ZI AG engineers as a reserved occupation were still alive. Again part of the reason why Z Stuttgart took so long to get going was that the Zeiss brains trust was still in the Dresden.
Also for the first 4 years Dresden had access to steel coming out of Thyssen and Krupps. Rollei, Voigtlander and ZI Dresden actually all retooled quite quickly. As for 4 years the whole of Germany still just about operated as a single market. Hence the Contax S which is a masterpiece all the way up to the Pent (prism) Con (tax) FBM - Fresnel, Metered, Microprism.
Yes the S has suffered from shutter problem but pin holes in a 70 year old cloth blind is not unusual - however when they were new they were way a head of their time and well built. Yes by the 1970s foreign currency was the reason Pentacon existed and some of the later cameras were not fabulous, but to say that everything was basically Russian is a very poor understanding of the actual history of the Eastern Block which I forgive as the innocence of youth.
@@fourcornerseducation8828 Ich sehe leider keine Einsicht bei Max, dass er sich mit DDR und UDSSR irrt. Möge am Alter wie auch der Herkunft etwas geschuldet sein, wobei England ja sehr deutsch ist - die "Windsors" sind ein deutsches Adelsgeschlecht.
The ME Super is a 45 year old electronic camera and yes, sometimes old electronics (from all brands) fail. That is reflected in the price, which is roughly a third the price of its all-mechanical sibling, the MX. But I have two that work great, and if one fails, I'll be happy to buy another one for $50-$60. Basically, buying ANY 40-50 year old camera is a crapshoot, but until the major manufacturers start building SLRs again, that's what we have to work with.
that is true they are all a bit of a crapshoot, some suffer from known fundamental flaws such as the ME, where there is a small leather cow hide washer which dries out and crumbles over time which causes the mirror to lock up on them.
New SLR's would be the solution but after so long picking up cameras for a bargain will people be willing to spend what the camera will be worth?
My Pentax ME Super works great! But I got it for $60 so it’s not the end of the world if it dies. But right now it works great. It meters correctly and takes nice pictures.
When they work they're great, however they do have a high likelihood of breaking down in the not too distant future
I've been lucky on the Soviet camera front; but I will say that the Kiev rangefinders made from about 1975 and earlier tend to be more reliably built than other Soviet cameras - provided you find one in good working order to begin with
that's true the earlier ones are more reliable, however some of those are now starting to break down just due to their age so it's getting hard to find one working in the first place
Regarding soviet cameras, i could not dissagree more, especially if you live in eastern europe. You just need to know what to look for and be prepared to do some minor repairs and or adjustments and you will be fine. I got a Fed 5 for a little over 10 bucks and fixed a leaking shutter curtain and adjusted the rangefinder and it has served me splendid thru the years. Even on freezing tops of mountains, and on blistering summer days. U just need to check carefully when buying.
with the technical know how to fix and tinker with them they can be good cameras but for new comers to 35mm SLRs there's a lot of things that can be easily missed
The only problem I've had with the GDR SLRs is dead meters. Usually everything else works. The good news is Praktica continued to make meterless cameras for a looooooong time. So my advice would be stick to a meterless camera if you're getting something from the GDR - or if it has a meter, only buy if returns are allowed so you can shoot a test roll with it to check the meter function.
So far as the Soviet RFs go: I've had three Zorki 4 cameras, and one Zorki 4K. All of them worked. I've had two FEDs. A FED 3 that was serviced before I bought it, and which I actually prefer to the Leica IIIF that I have, and FED 5B that I bought NIB, unused, and was absolutely the worst assembled camera I have ever seen. Some brands did better work than others, and the newer they are the worse they tend to be.
I no longer bother with anything Pentax. The brand has had way too much hype for far too long. You can get a Mamiya DTL 1000 (or DTL 500) for about half as much as a Pentax Spotmatic, and it's a better camera overall design wise, and in my experience far more robust. I've had three, all of them worked, all had functional meters. Gave one to my nephew a few years ago to learn photography with. The other I accidentally forgot where I put so I bought a third.
all very good points, thank you for the input
I was using SLR's back when they were new. Agree about the Pentax ME Super. I have seen breakages in the film transport mechanism. However I have never seen an MX break. Maybe I have just been lucky.
Selenium meters definitely don't last. A pity as my Weston Master meter finally died and I loved that meter.
Most Nikons, like the FA, were too expensive, and back then people were certain the FA would never last, yet here in 2024 I still have three of them, and they work perfectly. Nikon I generally find is very durable and the extra cost was worth it for the long haul, especially on the higher end models except the F4.
The two biggest issues with Nikon was the notorious bleeding LCD, mostly in the viewfinder, but also the body, in the F4. A pity because I love the F4, but they used bad LCD screens for that model. The bleeding can sometimes obscure important information on the screen and seems to be unfixable. It is quite common.
The other thing is the sticky body and back door finishes on several late 1980's and 1990's models. The problem is a clear coat which around now is suffering from plasticizer separation and migration to the surface. Can only be solved by removing the layer with rubbing alcohol or similar. Takes time but fixes the issue.
weirdly it's not the internal mechanism of the MX that breaks but the little filament lightbulbs in the viewfinder so the cameras are perfectly useable but have no meter.
I love my little FA although i don't use it nearly enough, the LCD bleeds is a real pain from the F3 onwards, i think the removable finders put pressure on them? Minolta cameras of the same period have similar issues but it's the LCD screens on the top plate which bleed.
I've heard numerous "fixes" for the sticky rubber over the years, talc, WD40, all sorts but it never lasts sadly
I understand that you are talking about russian cameras in general and I know of their reputation.
I have 2 Russian/CCCP cameras which I more or less stumbled upon. I have a Zenit E which I got together with a 58mm Helios lens for only little markup. It was the closest Helios offer to me.
The selenium meter is mostly okay although it doesn't go to the top (brighter scenes) anymore. For medium contrast scenes and not into direct bright sunlight it meters fine. It's a little hard to see proper focus sometimes, especially at closer distances. With the lens adapted to my DSLR it's easier.
I also have a Lubitel 166B 6x6 camera. I was buying a camera from a guy and we got to talking about photography and I mentioned I was interested in medium format waist level viewfinder cameras so he showed it to me and I bought it later (actually another one cause he's a flipper). It's not that great to use but the results from the single roll I have developed so far were sharp. It's lighter than a Yashica Mat 124G so it's easier to walk around with.
Later I did some research into Zenits and bought a Zenit 12XP which has electronic TTL metering, a focusing aid in the viewfinder, can take a strap easier and has better control dials on top. I also like black cameras more. I have yet to develop the film but the metering seemed to work fine but I shot pushed BW film at first..
I have also looked at Kievs but that feels more like a dead end to me. I don't want buy more cameras for their quirkiness or because they imitate something that I actually want.
I might have to check for other M42 cameras than Zenits at some point. Well I also have a GDR made Exa 1b which also gave me great results with the 50 2.8. I got it for 10€ so it would still have looked good as decoration anyways.
It probably has a reason other german and japanese cameras have a higher price.
the USSR/GDR cameras CAN be good but you'll often have to buy a few before getting a good one, and even then they can just break down at any point.
The Japanese and west German cameras will be slightly more expensive but that is because they are often more reliable with better quality control when they were manufactured.
Find a camera you enjoy using and that works correctly and stick with it👍🏼
Today I took from post my first (working) Japanese camera and it’s an AE-1. Hope I won’t find any critical problems. But I totally disagree about Prakticas. I have MTL50 and it’s beautiful and reliable camera in comparison with Zenith junk. But even on Zenit you could get nice shots and knowing their price it’s okay choice for beginner.
when the Prakticas work they're alright, the electronics are prone to failing, often due to poor soldering or faulty capacitors. if you get a good one they can be good, but you can go through a few before finding one that works right
I think price is the key here. Near where I live there's this thrift store that, I believe, mostly sells the stuff inheritors sell them in bulk. I suspect the really obvious great camera finds, if any, are sold elsewhere, but random mostly 50's and 60's, sometimes newer cameras are cheap. It's just a bit of a lottery on how well they work. My nearly perfect condition - I suspect, still shooting the first roll - was 20€ with a near perfect condition Helios 44-4M 58mm f/2. I kinda regret not buying an Ihagee Exa 1a that seemed to be functional, and I am tempted to buy a 15€ Agfa Ambi Silette that has shutter button not bouncing back up, but shutter itself working if you pull it up. Maybe I can repair it, maybe not, 15€ isn't much.
Finland is a funky country in terms of these old cameras. This place has a lot of East and West German stuff and Russian stuff, but overall there seems to be great availability in Japanese stuff too. I inherited a, sadly broken, Konica C35 since in my family Japanese cameras seem to have been the thing rather than European ones.
that is true, and it is strange how families did seem to gravitate towards either Japanese or European cameras. If you can get something, even if not in great cosmetic condition for a good price it is worth the gamble
I mean for the price that you can get these soviet cameras for, you can just get them CLAd and it will still be cheaper than the western counterpart. They're fully mechanical, so the electronics won't die on you in the future. I have a Pentacon Six, that has been CLAd and it's a beast. The zenit I got from my grandpa still works just fine, the shutter speeds are definitely not accurate, but the camera was never serviced either. In comparison, my minolta xe5's metering broke down and noone will fix it, cause it's electronic. To summarize my point, if you got a camera from your relative, just shoot pics on it, get it serviced, make it fun! Want something that will work and you can get serviced anywhere, get something that's fully mechanical and made in the west.
All very good points. I think the issue for most beginners is that finding a camera from a relative is very special and then find out it doesn't work is disheartening so if people are more aware of what to look for it might make it slightly less so.
@@MaxLamdin I understand. Hopefully we get more repair people back with the new film cameras coming out as well.
Controversially, I'd also add the Pentax K1000 to this list. I have a Japanese one which is lovely, but they are currently far too expensive (I was lucky). As an alternative quality basic SLR, I'd recommend the far cheaper Pentax SP500 or SP1000. They also have a nice obstacle free hand grip, but compared to the K1000, they are all Japanese made, they use the lovely all metal takumar lenses, and the stop down metering provides a depth of field preview.
i made a separate video talking about cameras i recommend and the Spotmatic's are one i strongly recommend, the Japanese K1000's are lovely but are getting pricey
It's a bit biased to list all of the most common cameras. It makes statistical sense that they would be broken more often. You don't have a tally in your head of the ones that are still working.
I have made a separate video listing cameras I do recommend people look into. Having worked in a camera shop for the last nearly 9 years it's a large part of my job to know what is likely working and worth putting a warranty on when resold. Just to list a few; Nikon FM/FM2, FE/FE2, Olympus OM-1/1n/OM-2, Pentax K1000/KX, Minolta XD-5/7, Nikkormat FT/FTN/FT2/FT3, Ricoh KR-5/XR-1, Pentax Spotmatics, are some of the cameras I see often which are still in great working condition and would recommend to beginners
Don't you think that you see so many faulty examples of these particular camera models because these models are now popular and therefore there are more of them in circulation?
I think it's obvious that old cameras break down more often and it's hard to find spare parts for them, but does that mean they're not worth recommending?)
it is true the there were more in circulation of these models, however in my other video covering cameras i recommend many of those were also made in high volumes with cameras such as the Pentax K1000 which was one of the longest in production cameras ever
I actually like the OM-10 (owned a few, as well as OM-1 and OM-2) hehe. Yes, OM-10 with the manual adapter is pretty much equivalent to OM-2. Being an electric camera, sure I don't expect it to outlive the OM-1. Just buy another one, after all they are cheap. Unfortunately Olympus doesn't offer something like Nikon FM3A, which is think is the most advanced manual focus 35mm SLR ever made.
i agree, but i think the problem now is that the price of an OM10 just keeps going up because it's a camera everyone recommends because they used to be cheap, now they're getting close to the same price as an OM1 it makes more sense just to get the OM1
my first experience with shooting film was inheriting my mum's Pentax ME Super from ~1979. had some issue with the advance lever and just an overall bad experience. bought another on ebay, issues and problems came in even faster. camera repair shop quoted me for over £250 each, so now i've given up on ME Supers... (also that plastic exposure mode changer is terrible!!)
yeah that all sounds about right, such a shame they break down as they are good little cameras but just so prone to faults, hope you found a good replacement
@@MaxLamdin currently looking for one and your recent video has been really helpful! it's been a while since i've been in the market. hopefully going to try pick up a nikomat or an olympus om-1 for a manual type experience.
Superb presentation !
thank you☺️
Really great video! So pleased RUclips recommended this. Can I ask, would you put the OM-10 in the same bag as the OM-20? And with these, are the electronics starting to fail?
the OM-10 is much more reliable than the OM-20/30/40/101 as these had a fatal flaw with internal magnets which would fuse together after time! avoid them at all costs!
@@MaxLamdinoooooh dear, I bought on on Sunday 😂 Will shop for another as it came with a tonne of lenses and accessories making buying another camera not too much of an issue. And thank you for that response!!!
ah sorry to hear that, but if it came with lenses and accessories that's always a bonus and worth holding on to, a nice OM-1/OM-2 would be more reliable and uses the same lenses
@@MaxLamdin Thank you and thank you so much for your time. For what it's worth thought the video was excellent and it's rare a video without all the mics and 'production' a la LGR, Linus etc. keep my attention but you and what you had to say (and how it was delivered) really kept me watching. Have subscribed and look forward to more!!
thank you very much for your kind words, i do hope to make more videos in the future🤞🏼
Should i buy Pentax me super or Nikon fm 10 all in excellent condition which one to buy ?
FM10 is fully mechanical and would be easier to get repaired, it's also a lot newer than the ME Super which is a good thing, if the meter is working i'd definitely go for the FM10
Soviet cameras, yeah, they are a bit weird. You either get a very good or a very bad model. There is nothing in between. Except for Lomo Lubitels. Those are indestructible. But GDR cameras are on a different level. I have a few of them and not a single one is broken. They also feel very differently in your hands.
i agree they do feel different to hold however i see Soviet and GDR cameras on a day to day basis that are faulty in some way, usually the GDR cameras are later as many of the early ones were built much better however i wouldn't recommend the earlier cameras to beginners as they can be finicky to get used too
@@MaxLamdin the problem with the later made cameras is that they were basically left behind by the Japanese manufacturers and in order to stay relevant, they tried to develop cameras with the same functionality to compete. But try doing that without money and other resources. For the 80s models there was a saying similar to „broken by default“ 😅. The earlier ones were copies of the war and pre-war German cameras or slight modifications of that design, so no problem there. But of course, often times they did not even have a light meter or were then later equipped with „kind of working“ light meters. If you use an external light meter that should not bother you.
that's true, by the 80s the machinery they had 'acquired' was outdated and the staff that had originally worked in the factories had either retired or passed and they just couldn't keep up with the jumps in technology. It seems that their tactic was to flood the market with sub-par cameras which is why you see things like the MTL/BC- ranges so frequently
What canon FD system camera you think is the most reliable? I have an AE1 which is jammed, but the 50mm lens on it is in perfect condition, I was wondering if I could get a better body to use it, maybe an FTb?
that's a great question, the FTb is a lovely fully mechanical camera, the meters often don't work and even if they do it can be tricky to find the battery for them. If you're comfortable using fully manual settings their great with an external light meter (or phone app). The F-1 bodies are also lovely and built like tanks but are quite a bit more expensive due to their "professional" build
Look up canon ef, bit of a sleeper but very good
I have a Zorki and a FED both are just decorations at this point. They did work for a while and I did like using them, I'm a sucker for rangefinder, they ultimately stopped.
that's seems to be the general life of the Soviet cameras, nice when they work but never for particularly long
Have it rebuilt at “Fedka”
jeezus F###in' Christ - I have four AE1+P and they all continue to function flawlessly - my favourite is the most worn of them all. Pentax: I have ME, MX & ME Super - each awesome and the K mount lenses are fabulous. note: the original OM1 was an attempt by Olympus to emulate the Pentax MX
my video is not the be all or end all of cameras, it is possible to get AE-1's or ME Supers which work well, however from my experience they are prone to failing due to their often heavy use and they do not offer a straight forward user experience to new comers who are looking to learn manual exposure etc.
Due to their popularity and high volume of units when current they are easy to find now whereas there are other more reliable alternatives which use the same great lenses from those systems
also worth noting that the OM-1 predates the MX by 4 years and was actually more of an attempt to fill a gap in the enthusiast market for a smaller reliable SLR
Interesting video and really helpful
thank you
Zorki 4 is pretty terrible.....think better off with a Zenith 11 like mine as long as light cell is covered up etc etc...
Trip 35 can be repaired.. Keep mine covered up....
I've found the Zorki and Zenith cameras to be too unreliable, if you can find a good one they work well but you have to go through so many to get a good one
I avoid 80's electronic cameras as a rule. I do have 3 Prakticas that were bought new and still work today, so I wouldn't avoid a Praktica. There a advantages to some of the Russian or GDR cameras, they are generally as cheap as chips, can be easily cannibalised, and are usually easy to repair....if you know what you are buying.
Good advice however feel that many people just getting into film photography do not know what they are buying which results in them abandoning film before they've had a real go at it
@@MaxLamdin I think the wider question is one of support. I agree with your advice to buy something simple, reliable and cheap(er). However, as film cameras age and the expertise to service them and repair is lost, many folk, even those following the advice, will either: end up with a repair beyond the camera value, have to buy an ever more expensive replacement, or give up film photography all together. This while the interest in film is growing, film cameras are becoming rarer, and prices for the simplest are rising. So there needs to be a regrowing of the film industry if the interest is to be sustained. Anyone for a Pentax? It's a start at least!
Totally agree with you there, it may be hard going for a little while longer while Pentax see how the 17 does before pushing on with the rest of their line🤞🏼
I had a Pentax Super ME that a friend ( Who had bought it new in the 1970's ) gave me. Worked fine, lost it in a house fire.😕
ah that really sucks, hopefully you can pick something else up soon
@@MaxLamdin I have a Nikon FM2 now. Very nice.
Of course, everyone who has and loves their camera on this list will rise up in heated reply, but keep in mind that this list is directed to new users, just now getting into film photography. The question is, do you buy a camera (or into a system) which is known to have systemic issues, or do you buy into another which does not. It's a question of probabilities. The some of the cameras on his list may be popular, and they may be working for numerous owners, but the odds based on past performance are that they will either not hold up, or they will cost more to keep in working order than many other cameras. The Canon AE-1 models did not age that well. I watched a friend go totally into Pentax M-series models for self and wife in the 1970s, but ten years later, they were all gone, with a total switch to Canon. He was always shy about why the switch, but I know that he started having Pentax body issues and elected to bail rather than buy his repairman a new boat. Now I'm repairing the squeaks in his two AE-1 bodies. I've used Nikon SLRs all of my long life. I've never had an issue with one, but I'd never buy an EM either. For what it's worth, if I have to take one camera up the Amazon for 3 months in the jungle, it would be my Nikkormat FT3, old world durability with new world lenses, while my favorite F100 would stay at home.
thank you for the very insightful input you've managed to accurately condense my ramblings
I think you need to add the "but if the price is right" to the equation. I have a Canon A1 and two AE-1 programs. None of them i paid more than $50 for at thrift shops. They all work great. If one breaks ill buy another for $50 to replace it.
that is very true, a bargain is a bargain at the end of the day
Nah man canon ae1 has been the most reliable camera ever it’s the one I keep in my car at all times in the summer heat and I throw it in my back pack never had an issue with it also the photos look great
you can get good ones which work reliably and the lenses are really good however if you pick one up that's either had a lot of use or hasn't been looked after it can be a nightmare
you can tell he's a real photo pro because of his beanie
it does help convince myself
Hi, I'm a bit new to this photography world. I just bought a Asahi Pentax Spotmatic Motordrive or something and I was wondering is it any good or I made the wrong choice for starting my photography journey. I have no knowledge at photography, I don't know how the ISO/ASA works or which lenses should I use. I'm considering to pair my camera with the Industar 50-2 Lens, It's because, it is quite on my budget. Because it had no lens when I first bought it. But if any of you guys have any recommendations about lenses that uses the M42 mounting that would be awesome. Cheerio!
any M42 lens can be used it will mainly come down to your style of photography but a 50mm is always a good choice, Pentax 50mm lenses will be better built and will be sharper but will be more expensive, if you're on a budget stick to the Industar for now and see how you like the results
@@MaxLamdin I see, I guess I'll stick to the Industar for now I think, Thanks for the info though, New sub from me. Cheerio!
@@reynardsetiawanz8778 Probably the best 50mm lens is the Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar MC 50mm 2.8, which also is one with the closest minimal focus distance of just 35 cm. And they don't cost too much.
Hi New sub :).. You did not mention the Pentax Program models . I have a Program Plus and its working fine at the moment but yeah I got it cheap and its in almost new looking condition so I use it and know that if it dies its done lol. Just two stupid buttons to change the shutter speeds lol. But my Spotmatic YES I love that camera :).. Also the Trip models I was not interested for the reason I did not like the metering system. Now the RC model I did get and yep the meter in that camera does not work lol. BUT you can use that model fully mechanical without a battery and the needles in the view finder still move showing the current shutter speed and F value.. Sunny 16 or I just often use a cell phone app or external light meter :). I own 3 Exakta VX models.. Two Pre War and one post.. The post war one is ehhh and it needs shutter cloth, The two Pre War ones also needed major work done. I repair and calibrate all my cameras so one of the pre war models ended up a winter project a couple of years ago and I completely fixed it and I love that camera... Also the lenses I got on those cameras are legendary lenses that people claim are some of the best lenses made.. You can remove the locking pin on those lenses and slip a M42 thread ring over the lens and tighten the set screws on the adapter ring and tadda you can screw it onto any M42 camera like my Spotmatic :).
the RC is a really nice little camera for the reasons you described and one i often do recommend.
You're totally right about the Pentax Program cameras too, they're nice when they work but can die at any time
i am on a hunt for a zorki 4k, so far i inspected 6 of them and they all had non-uniform exposure 😅
that sounds about right for a zorki😂 good luck finding one that suits you
Gdr was not Russian. GDR was for East Germany.
yeah that's true, but east Germany was basically a satellite state for the USSR and they did share a lot of resources and machinery, the earlier GDR cameras were better as they used the pre-war machinery but it got worse when they had to start innovating by themselves
@@MaxLamdin England und das britische Königshaus sind Satelitten des deutschen Adels ;-) Wer etwas immer wiederholt, das einfach falsch ist, macht es dadurch nicht wahr.
What a weird video. "dont buy the canon a1, it is very old". In a video from 2 weeks ago "buy a nikon fe" - which was produced during the same time...
the FE was built to a higher quality than the A1, the FE also uses simpler electronics as well as generally fewer electronics, no 8-segment display to fail, no notorious shutter cough and no dodgy battery door
There's way more lenses for the Nikon as well. The more exotic focal lengths and speeds are relatively affordable compared to other mounts because they made so many f-mount lenses for decades and the focus turns the "wrong way" according to cinematographers so they don't want them
my ae1 is so hit and miss
Sorry, Pentacon, Zeiss Jena und Praktika sind keine russischen Kameras - das sind deutsche Kameras, die in der DDR entwickelt und produziert wurden. Man sollte sich schon richtig informieren, ehe man etwas in ein Video packt. UK wäre jetzt nicht so weit weg.... Auch die Meinung über die A-1 und Verwandte AE-1 sind nicht so das Problem, wie du darstellen möchtest. Für dich ist wohl eine Pentax 17 oder eine Rollei 35 AF etwas: Neu mit Garantie. Mit solchen Fehlern und Fehleinschätzungen werden die Abonennten nicht so schnell mehr.
That is somewhat similar to saying that Kiev cameras are not Russian as the factory was located in what is now Ukraine. The GDR was a satellite state of the USSR and after the captured factory workers retired or passed quality control and innovation fell as they were fed by the same infrastructure as the Zorki and Zenith cameras which have a similarly poor reputation. Using stolen documents and machinery which had been used to make good cameras, does not instantly produce equally good cameras (as they found out in the GDR and why Reid in England didn't last).
The issue with most of the Canon FD models was in their mass production and wide spread nature, due to them being a more affordable alternative to other Japanese cameras of the time they were often heavily used and thus have suffered over the years. Most of the problems with them come from their aging circuitry which can be extremely difficult if not impossible to repair. Earlier models like the FTb or EF (FD mount) bodies didn't suffer from as many issues as they were more refined as Canon tried to compete with higher grade cameras such as the Nikkormat range rather than the ME Super or Olympus OM10.
I have a lot of thoughts on the Pentax 17 and Rollei 35 cameras, they are more appealing due to their newer construction however there are too many limitations of the Pentax 17 for it to be a worthwhile investment, hopefully the revenue they generate from this camera will be enough for them to continue their endeavours with making a 'full frame' version in the not too distant future however Pentax (Ricoh) seem reluctant to make something that customers wants. The Rollei 35 is a better offering but with it only being available for a few days as of writing this it's too early to tell what its short comings might be however at least their off to a good start having listened to consumer feedback and requests rather than making something they think people will want. As for their respective prices, the Pentax is hugely overpriced for what it offers while the Rollei seems perfectly priced if it can live up to what people expect of it (from what I've seen so far its on track to do that).
But thank you for your input.
As I understand it the better USSR manufacturer was the Zavod Arsenal factory in Kiev, Ukraine. The Kiev rangefinders were produced there using the same tooling and staff as Zeiss Contax in Germany because the USSR stole the tooling and essentially kidnapped the staff from Germany after WWII and the unconditional surrender of the Nazi Regime!
Edit: my understanding is that the lubricants used by the USSR were inferior and dried up which causes lots of problems. Is that a root cause you are aware of?
i've heard about the lubricants being an issue before, they go gummy and jam everything up, i believe there are other issues but mostly they are due to parts wearing quicker than other manufacturers i.e. gears/springs/etc.
Hum, maybe. I have a Kiev19, it jammed so I took it to repair which was basically cleaning and lubrication it's working perfectly again
Btw the camera feels very solid it weights 910grams
Minolta Maxxum 5. Dirt cheap, super light and has every feature you can imagine. If you break it, just buy a new one.
very true from a price perspective
Cheers 😊. Your background blows ;-) ! Set up a more ambient vibe with better lighting mate. Great content. Not so great visuals. My channel is the opposite lol
that's a very fair comment😂 I will work on it but will most likely evolve slowly over time