Highly appreciate the details, such as what the anchor bolt looks like and how it is placed. For a complete novice, these details are priceless. I had a question: @00:59, how is the anchor bolt placed between the two blocks? Is part of the blocks shaved/removed to make place for the bolt? Or is the bolt simply placed between the blocks and masonry applied to fasten the anchor to the blocks on each side of it? Thanks!
Great video! But my questions is if you square the foundation first? Wouldn't it be hard to get it squared using this method and then not being able to see the chalk mark?
Thank you for the most excellent video. I like doing it myself and save money. QUESTION: Should the nut and bolts be countersunk to allow a flush top of the sill plate? I think placing a modular home would be very difficult with the bolts sticking up.
Good on the moisture barrier articulating with the sill plate/ring joist/joist ends. My 1923 built house didn't have any barrier and I have had to cut out 2 short spots to replace with sealant and new framing as best can be done; it's a real pain in the ass. Why not paint the top and sides of the footers with tar?
Foam sill sealers are pretty good at providing a capillary break, but not great as an air sealer. For that, neoprene is a better choice, as it conforms better to variance in the top of the concrete wall. Additionally, if you're using exterior batt or rigid foam insulation (and most houses now being built must, by code, have exterior wall insulation), it makes sense to have a sill that extends 3+ inches out past the wall, in order to provide a base for supporting the insulation that sits above it. The days of sill plates flush with the concrete wall below them are over.
Quick question- how do you set the bottom plate of your wall in place, when you have those anchor bolt ‘nubs’ sticking up out of the sill plate? Do you drill out small round notches in the bottom plate? Great videos!
Hey Chris! Yes you would drill out a whole big enough to accommodate the nubs. I had to do that on the garage on the house I’m building now. Here’s a video of me sitting a wall on a concrete slab. It’s not the scenario you were talking about exactly but maybe give you some insight. ruclips.net/video/O1j5WsViwyQ/видео.html
I did not want to pay for a concrete slab and finish a basement on a lot that is so flat. I learned that a basement on a slopped lot is the best investment
So in order to have a walkout basement without digging around the door, the lot slopes away from the house to where part of The foundation is exposed outside of the ground
A general knowledge of how to, but I could use advice or see a actual one being built. I believe you never know enough and learning more is the way to go. Standard conventional home.
It certainly is much easier to find the mark to later drill out when you make an 'Indentation' into the wood by using a hammer. Also, does anyone use the 'EPDM' rubber gasket, 'BG65' for 2x6 plates sill plate gasket versus the polyethylene sill sealer that you are using? Is there a big difference you find? In the background, it looks like such a beautiful property.
Love the video, and I plan on doing it this way. My building is almost like a square. 53' X 40' Going around the outside edge with the sill plate. I heard you mention getting 16' boards. Does it make more sense for example to do 4 - 10' board for the 40' side? Or is it better to get the longer the board the better? For more uniformity through out the construction?
16 foot boards are typically better quality just because they have to find the logs to make them. Its not 100 % true all the time but it is so often carpenters tend to order the mud sills that way.
@@meshedgears2794. Thank you for your response. My properties foundation is 40' x 53' to put the sill. If I divide out both 40' divided by 16' that is 2 - 16' and 1 8', and if I do 53' that is 3 -16' and 1 - 5 ' aproximately. So do I put the 8' and 5' stretch in the middle, on the ends? Just trying to figure out the best approach. I am probably over thinking this.
@@michaelorozco1617 Hi Michael without seeing the plans it's not really possible to say, but you should have plans from an engineer or architect telling you what spacing you need for the bolts. The plans should also tell you what is the minimum embedded length of the bolt and the max allowable space from the end of the mudsill. There should also be a call outs for the lumber size 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 3x6 or 3x8. The overall length of the foundation does not dictate everything, for instance do you have a man door planned? The man door changes the layout bolt spacing etc. and don't forget wherever you have two sill plates meeting there will be two bolts much closer together. What about interior beams is this a raised floor or slab combination of both maybe a basement? Again that's where the plans come in but to answer just the question regarding the plates. The plates don't care where they are.... so 16+8+16 is the same as 16+16+8 . -MG
@@meshedgears2794. Thank you for the reply. You have answered my question. the foundation is on a slope. So some of it is on a foundation while the other part of it is on cinderblock wall. There is a portion of the wall that is on the slope there is a big opening for and RV Garage, but portion has a large LVL over the top of it. I am assuming we are using 2X8X16 since we are on top of part of the cinderblock wall. parts of the cinderwall are concrete filled. I totally understand what you were talking about with the doors. Thank you very much. Very helpful!
better to nail two wood runners down the side of the 2x6-8 tp make sure you are on the right path or a 2x propped to the wall with some weight. Often better to find holes laying board on edge and penciling the bolt profiles as the stand on it. inches to Center off wall can easily be measured.
Depends on what code is observed. Some places, every X feet others the whole wall filled with rebar. The anchor j-bolt placed into mortar between two blocks is a very weak connection. I wouldn't expect much from that if a tornado comes through. Always do your homework and not completely trust the Internet.
I’m working on shed on foundation 13’4” by 13’4” and I used 19 anchor bolts in 20 filled in with vertical rebar. I meant to use 20 bolts but I forgot to set one. Take that as you will, I’m not a professional.
So you can just set the anchor bolt in the small space without having to fill the whole cavity? I assume you didn't fill in the voids anywhere except where you put the bolts?
I've never seen a block footer or stemwall without a bond beam as the top layer. Anchor bolts should be incorporated into that bond beam which should have rebar (verticle and horizontal)
In your area is it okay to cut the fibers of the mudsill? In my area I would be flagged for the code violation. Typically we are only allowed to do 1/4 to 1/2 turn past tight. Edit for a question: why do the mud sills after the L bolts If your filling cavities for the bolt wouldn't be just as easy to wet set the mudsill plate and the bolts together? I have seen some videos where guys doing work on block attach the bolts to the mud sill and place them together. -MG
That depends are you referring to slab on grade or pier & beam? Slab on grade.. it can go up pretty high ( 6”-1’ of slab is common); especially if the house is sitting on a slope as if…one side of the house will have around 2’ of slab and the other side can have up to 8’ of slab to level out the surface of slab/ foundation. Pier and beam is different. If your piers/ columns are around 4’ with 6’ spacing or above 4’ in height, it might require a shear wall.
I’m doing an owner builder in Arizona it’s stem poured concrete and slab. I went to the site and it looks so small like one of the rooms looks small. I’ve heard this is normal but just wanted to ask is it normal to look to small and then it looks bigger once they put the slab ? Thanks
I have a question: why all the cinder block piers as opposed to a concrete pier with a post and girder for the joists to run across to break up the spans and prevent trampoline floor? Are you hanging all the joist or placing them on a ledger?
Hi! I like your explanation, but I have another question, what do you do when you connect the walls to the floor, so the walls are grounded as well? keep up the good work
great video, ill be building my house in mexico just doing some refreshing as im going to have a block foundation with wood framing, nice tip on indentation to mark your drill point
Mexico build! How cool man. Good luck on your project. Yea the indentation works well for me. Thanks for watching the video and commenting too! Be sure to subscribe.
Not meaning to nitpick your work or anything of the sort. But why aren't your blocks grouted? How is that a foundation that you can build on? Honest questions here. I've never seen anyone put a sill plate on a hollow wall
Question- how far apart does the anchor bolts have to be apart. Question 2- Does the whole foundation wall have to be filled with cement or just where the anchor bolts are going. Thanks
Bolts need to be within 12" of ends, corners, or openings. On the longer spans, not more than 6'-0" apart. Some people fill all the openings with concrete for strength, some only the ones with the anchor. Much depends on local code. My personal opinion: always better to be beyond code and over engineered than cheap, with shortcuts. I have just seen far too much repair needed on Owner DIY.
With the sill gasket, ive usually put the ribs facing up. I mean, it naturally rolls out like that, so why would it go the other way? Maybe i've been doing it wrong..
Tim Lambert Maybe not forever but probably a good 15yrs! After finishing framing dads house I will be back on this house full time. Lots of videos to come!!
It depends on what is the Year & Code of Record. If this property with subject to the IRC code (most locales use this as a minimum standard, other locales add on to it for localized conditions such as seismic and hurricane....). The IRC code calls from minimum of 7" of anchor embedment in a CMU with a ½" dia (as I recall I believe the exact words are 0.707 dia. That would be equivalent to the root diameter of the thread and that's why ½-13 is acceptable. 10" x ½-13 is the minimum of what should be used, they're about 50 cents more apiece. These 8-inch anchors are for deck building. He has used 8" you do the math there is no way when you drop the 1½" thick steel plate that this house would pass inspection. Add an amount of stick up and half inch for the nut and the washer and he may have 2 in the mortar. This house should be condemned as a code violation. Feel sorry for the next person who buys it.
I used 1/2" wedge bolts on a 2x4 sill plate. Big mistake, as I blew out my foundation. Now I have to patch the exterior edge and use 3/8" bolts instead. Anyone have this happen? If so, how did you correct it?
PBS #007 They cannot be more than 4’ apart and no farther than 1’ away from the end of the sill plate per code. Be sure to subscribe and hit the bell for notifications!
The builder seems to be trying to "teach" much seems he still has much to learn. Quite a few things done not to IRC/IBC and that could come back to bite most people when the inspector shows up or if he house is to be sold and the home inspector finds the mistakes.
Yes I am a carpenter I have been building house since I was 13 yrs old. I thinks its easier, but if it's easier for you then that's your way. I just prefer measuring.
it makes a n indention? no flashing? how about making it straight and square is your mason perfect? haha Dont follow this guy just because he has a video camera
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Good, clear and clean communication with a thorough explanation of what your doing. Looking forward to more if your videos.
If you ever get bored of new construction, I would also watch videos of repairs on older homes!
You never know what I might DIY next! Thanks for watching!
Exactly what I needed for a few questions I had. Thanks!!
Ok. I asked about the sill plate in another video. Out west we have the reddish colored pressure treated 2x6’s. Great video, bruh.
Oh man that sill plate bolt idea is going to save me a lot of time
Great video man, I used your materials/technique for my shed sill plates!
Thank you for the clear explanation.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
Good explanations in your videos. Thanks!
You're a good man. First time stopping by and I really liked this video ☺️
Thanks Dill! Stay tuned for more videos to come!
Thank you!! I'm building my own greenhouse and have never done a foundation before so you're channel will be a big help!
Good luck on your greenhouse. Thanks a lot for watching. I’m glad I could help!
W w wewww
thank you i just subscribed and shared it to my class mates
You are welcome! Thank you for sharing it with people. It helps out the channel a lot! Stay tuned!
Highly appreciate the details, such as what the anchor bolt looks like and how it is placed. For a complete novice, these details are priceless. I had a question: @00:59, how is the anchor bolt placed between the two blocks? Is part of the blocks shaved/removed to make place for the bolt? Or is the bolt simply placed between the blocks and masonry applied to fasten the anchor to the blocks on each side of it? Thanks!
Thanks for all videos making it simple clear and tips
Saved this rookie a lot of time not measuring each bolt haha. I appreciate it.
Thanks so much for your clear explanation on what a sill plate is 😊
You are welcome! I hope it helped you with your project. Stay tuned!
Good Stuff! Thanks!!
Thank you!
Very good and clear explanation.
Thanks Ron!
Can't wait to get started on a project. Wether it be my own or helping someone out
I’m the same way I just love construction! Good luck on your project!
Great video! But my questions is if you square the foundation first? Wouldn't it be hard to get it squared using this method and then not being able to see the chalk mark?
Thank you for the most excellent video. I like doing it myself and save money. QUESTION: Should the nut and bolts be countersunk to allow a flush top of the sill plate? I think placing a modular home would be very difficult with the bolts sticking up.
building codes would not allow counter sinking the bolts. you would be lessening the strength/thicknes of the sill considerably.
Thanks for the video man. It sure did relieve some stress. I had no idea what my boss was about to have me do 😂
I’m glad I can help! Once you do one sill plate you will be fine. Not too complicated but it takes some practice
@@TheExcellentLaborer75 ìý656uiuu6ut
Hl8
@@Dwilcoxxx was this a typo?
@@Dwilcoxxx huh?
Good on the moisture barrier articulating with the sill plate/ring joist/joist ends. My 1923 built house didn't have any barrier and I have had to cut out 2 short spots to replace with sealant and new framing as best can be done; it's a real pain in the ass. Why not paint the top and sides of the footers with tar?
Foam sill sealers are pretty good at providing a capillary break, but not great as an air sealer. For that, neoprene is a better choice, as it conforms better to variance in the top of the concrete wall. Additionally, if you're using exterior batt or rigid foam insulation (and most houses now being built must, by code, have exterior wall insulation), it makes sense to have a sill that extends 3+ inches out past the wall, in order to provide a base for supporting the insulation that sits above it. The days of sill plates flush with the concrete wall below them are over.
I’d like to see a picture of what that looks like
Termite would love to come up out of that hollow block and start with that foam/finish with the sill plate
So don't nail the OSB to the mudsill?
Quick question- how do you set the bottom plate of your wall in place, when you have those anchor bolt ‘nubs’ sticking up out of the sill plate? Do you drill out small round notches in the bottom plate?
Great videos!
Hey Chris! Yes you would drill out a whole big enough to accommodate the nubs. I had to do that on the garage on the house I’m building now. Here’s a video of me sitting a wall on a concrete slab. It’s not the scenario you were talking about exactly but maybe give you some insight. ruclips.net/video/O1j5WsViwyQ/видео.html
That's not where the bottom plate would sit. The floor system sits on the surface. The bottom plate then sits on the plywood subfloor
Very nice video... keep up the good work
Thank you! I appreciate you watching.
codes make anchors closer in many areas California Florida indentation is the word.
So what exactly are you screwing the rim joist into? The floor joist, sill plate, or both?
thanks, nice info for beginners.... curious. why the crawlspace? not a full basement...
I did not want to pay for a concrete slab and finish a basement on a lot that is so flat. I learned that a basement on a slopped lot is the best investment
@@TheExcellentLaborer yeah cost savings for sure, never heard about the slope thing though, what do you mean?
So in order to have a walkout basement without digging around the door, the lot slopes away from the house to where part of The foundation is exposed outside of the ground
@@TheExcellentLaborer oh the plan was to have a walkout basement? you can have a basement that's not walk out though, just accessed from inside....
@@jonathanbrazeau970 Yes correct. I’m just saying for humidity control it seems to work the best in my area do you have a walkout type basement.
good communication 👌🏾
How come you didn’t install a termite barrier?
A general knowledge of how to, but I could use advice or see a actual one being built. I believe you never know enough and learning more is the way to go. Standard conventional home.
It certainly is much easier to find the mark to later drill out when you make an 'Indentation' into the wood by using a hammer. Also, does anyone use the 'EPDM' rubber gasket, 'BG65' for 2x6 plates sill plate gasket versus the polyethylene sill sealer that you are using? Is there a big difference you find? In the background, it looks like such a beautiful property.
Love the video, and I plan on doing it this way. My building is almost like a square. 53' X 40' Going around the outside edge with the sill plate. I heard you mention getting 16' boards. Does it make more sense for example to do 4 - 10' board for the 40' side? Or is it better to get the longer the board the better? For more uniformity through out the construction?
16 foot boards are typically better quality just because they have to find the logs to make them. Its not 100 % true all the time but it is so often carpenters tend to order the mud sills that way.
@@meshedgears2794. Thank you for your response. My properties foundation is 40' x 53' to put the sill. If I divide out both 40' divided by 16' that is 2 - 16' and 1 8', and if I do 53' that is 3 -16' and 1 - 5 ' aproximately. So do I put the 8' and 5' stretch in the middle, on the ends? Just trying to figure out the best approach. I am probably over thinking this.
@@michaelorozco1617 Hi Michael without seeing the plans it's not really possible to say, but you should have plans from an engineer or architect telling you what spacing you need for the bolts. The plans should also tell you what is the minimum embedded length of the bolt and the max allowable space from the end of the mudsill. There should also be a call outs for the lumber size 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 3x6 or 3x8. The overall length of the foundation does not dictate everything, for instance do you have a man door planned? The man door changes the layout bolt spacing etc. and don't forget wherever you have two sill plates meeting there will be two bolts much closer together. What about interior beams is this a raised floor or slab combination of both maybe a basement? Again that's where the plans come in but to answer just the question regarding the plates. The plates don't care where they are.... so 16+8+16 is the same as 16+16+8 .
-MG
@@meshedgears2794. Thank you for the reply. You have answered my question. the foundation is on a slope. So some of it is on a foundation while the other part of it is on cinderblock wall. There is a portion of the wall that is on the slope there is a big opening for and RV Garage, but portion has a large LVL over the top of it. I am assuming we are using 2X8X16 since we are on top of part of the cinderblock wall. parts of the cinderwall are concrete filled. I totally understand what you were talking about with the doors. Thank you very much. Very helpful!
Which way should the wood curve be oriented for these bottom plates?
Can you do a video of how to do sill plates on Alaskan slabs. Thank you
better to nail two wood runners down the side of the 2x6-8 tp make sure you are on the right path or a 2x propped to the wall with some weight. Often better to find holes laying board on edge and penciling the bolt profiles as the stand on it. inches to Center off wall can easily be measured.
What kind of siding are you using? Isn’t it best to have a half inch overhang (over block). Doesn’t hardy board require this?
Question: How is the concrete wall balanced with fill outside but nothing inside the perimeter? Thanks
The unique hammer claw distinguishes you as a ‘for real’ carpenter.’
Don't you need to fill up the cinder blocks all the way up/ concrete and rebar?
Depends on what code is observed. Some places, every X feet others the whole wall filled with rebar. The anchor j-bolt placed into mortar between two blocks is a very weak connection. I wouldn't expect much from that if a tornado comes through. Always do your homework and not completely trust the Internet.
I’m working on shed on foundation 13’4” by 13’4” and I used 19 anchor bolts in 20 filled in with vertical rebar. I meant to use 20 bolts but I forgot to set one. Take that as you will, I’m not a professional.
So you can just set the anchor bolt in the small space without having to fill the whole cavity? I assume you didn't fill in the voids anywhere except where you put the bolts?
I don’t know what the codes are in your area , But where I live you do not.
I've never seen a block footer or stemwall without a bond beam as the top layer. Anchor bolts should be incorporated into that bond beam which should have rebar (verticle and horizontal)
@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA what's that mesh stuff called that you put below the bond beam so the mortar/cement doesn't fall through?
In your area is it okay to cut the fibers of the mudsill? In my area I would be flagged for the code violation. Typically we are only allowed to do 1/4 to 1/2 turn past tight.
Edit for a question: why do the mud sills after the L bolts If your filling cavities for the bolt wouldn't be just as easy to wet set the mudsill plate and the bolts together? I have seen some videos where guys doing work on block attach the bolts to the mud sill and place them together.
-MG
How high can a foundation go up? Is there codes for each state or just a general height limit
I’m not sure if there is a “limit” but different material have different rules for engineering.
That depends are you referring to slab on grade or pier & beam?
Slab on grade.. it can go up pretty high ( 6”-1’ of slab is common); especially if the house is sitting on a slope as if…one side of the house will have around 2’ of slab and the other side can have up to 8’ of slab to level out the surface of slab/ foundation.
Pier and beam is different. If your piers/ columns are around 4’ with 6’ spacing or above 4’ in height, it might require a shear wall.
I’m doing an owner builder in Arizona it’s stem poured concrete and slab. I went to the site and it looks so small like one of the rooms looks small. I’ve heard this is normal but just wanted to ask is it normal to look to small and then it looks bigger once they put the slab ? Thanks
Do you not use 3" washers between the nut and plate?
Where was this build at? In my neck of the woods cinder block crawl spaces aren't common.
I have a question: why all the cinder block piers as opposed to a concrete pier with a post and girder for the joists to run across to break up the spans and prevent trampoline floor? Are you hanging all the joist or placing them on a ledger?
Hank you for this video. What did you use to waterproof your blocks?
Foundation coating. I just roll it on with a roller. Thanks!
Is that your next house???🏡
Yes. After this house is complete I’m going to sell the house I live in so I can avoid paying taxes on the gains!
Hi! I like your explanation, but I have another question, what do you do when you connect the walls to the floor, so the walls are grounded as well? keep up the good work
Bottom plates and studs
Nice video. Do you measure to keep your anchor bolts from being where the studs are going to be. ???? Thank you. Just subscribed
great video, ill be building my house in mexico just doing some refreshing as im going to have a block foundation with wood framing, nice tip on indentation to mark your drill point
Mexico build! How cool man. Good luck on your project. Yea the indentation works well for me. Thanks for watching the video and commenting too! Be sure to subscribe.
No grout in the cinder blocks ?
Mortar between cinder blocks
Do you build the wall on top of the sill plate then? So you’d have two bottom plates on wall?
Joists then sub floor then wall
How tight do you get those? I don't wanna crack my foundation in the spring
Just snug them up well. You will get to feel for it after a few bolts. Hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I thought there was like a specific ftlbs of torque. Thanks
Steel plate washers aren't required by code where this structure is being built?
Not meaning to nitpick your work or anything of the sort. But why aren't your blocks grouted? How is that a foundation that you can build on? Honest questions here. I've never seen anyone put a sill plate on a hollow wall
Shouldn’t large washers or plates be used in conjecture the bolts?
Question- how far apart does the anchor bolts have to be apart.
Question 2- Does the whole foundation wall have to be filled with cement or just where the anchor bolts are going. Thanks
Bolts need to be within 12" of ends, corners, or openings. On the longer spans, not more than 6'-0" apart. Some people fill all the openings with concrete for strength, some only the ones with the anchor. Much depends on local code. My personal opinion: always better to be beyond code and over engineered than cheap, with shortcuts. I have just seen far too much repair needed on Owner DIY.
what's code for the spacing and number of bolts on a foundation?
With the sill gasket, ive usually put the ribs facing up. I mean, it naturally rolls out like that, so why would it go the other way? Maybe i've been doing it wrong..
Do I need pressure treated wood
Have you considered ‘J’ bolts-used to install light poles? Seriously, conventional drilled anchor bolts are said to provide more resistance.
Is the the “Forever Home”?
Tim Lambert Maybe not forever but probably a good 15yrs! After finishing framing dads house I will be back on this house full time. Lots of videos to come!!
I planning on making a 32 by 32 wood floor. Down here the floor is put on cement blocks. I'm looking for a tutorial on how to do this. I have
What is that black coating on the outside of the CMU?
your corner studs, what are the measurements ??
What corner studs do you speak of? Are you talking about the sill plate width? These are 2x8 pressure treated.
1:03 1/2" by 8" long anchor bolt ?? ...i saw in another video, the most usual now is a 3/8" by 12" long Anchor bolt...installed every 2' feet ??
It depends on what is the Year & Code of Record. If this property with subject to the IRC code (most locales use this as a minimum standard, other locales add on to it for localized conditions such as seismic and hurricane....).
The IRC code calls from minimum of 7" of anchor embedment in a CMU with a ½" dia (as I recall I believe the exact words are 0.707 dia. That would be equivalent to the root diameter of the thread and that's why ½-13 is acceptable.
10" x ½-13 is the minimum of what should be used, they're about 50 cents more apiece. These 8-inch anchors are for deck building.
He has used 8" you do the math there is no way when you drop the 1½" thick steel plate that this house would pass inspection. Add an amount of stick up and half inch for the nut and the washer and he may have 2 in the mortar. This house should be condemned as a code violation.
Feel sorry for the next person who buys it.
Very informative answer brother
Thanks 👍
What does 2X sill plate W A.B per plan meaning?
Gbu sir
Thanks!
It should be indentation, indention I believe is archaic.
I used 1/2" wedge bolts on a 2x4 sill plate. Big mistake, as I blew out my foundation. Now I have to patch the exterior edge and use 3/8" bolts instead. Anyone have this happen? If so, how did you correct it?
How do you square up your sill plates
Use a chalk line to make sure it's square. Better to use more than one color if the first is not spot on with your corner walls.
Stiffler?!
I didn’t add the foam to prevent bugs etc, what can I do now? I’m now getting ants. The inside walls are already dry walled and finished. Thanks
Go in the basement with a caulking gun and silicone caulk. Apply a generous bead of caulk between the sill and foundation.
@@Jiambo Dry packing might help....
i mean the anchor bolts
PBS #007 They cannot be more than 4’ apart and no farther than 1’ away from the end of the sill plate per code. Be sure to subscribe and hit the bell for notifications!
What’s the torque setting on your impact? Thanks bro
Furm?
Man Virginia we have to have anchor bolts every 4 foot
Supposed to use a Simpson 2” square washer!!
or 3 inch.
@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA my error, absolutely correct in most jurisdictions. Cheers
The builder seems to be trying to "teach" much seems he still has much to learn. Quite a few things done not to IRC/IBC and that could come back to bite most people when the inspector shows up or if he house is to be sold and the home inspector finds the mistakes.
Not vents !!!!! Conditioned space.
Yes vents
Just go to the Stodoys plans website if you want to do it yourself.
🙂👍
measuring is a lot easier
Jim Vermette Do you think so? I feel like it’s time consuming and not as accurate. Are you a Carpenter?
Yes I am a carpenter I have been building house since I was 13 yrs old. I thinks its easier, but if it's easier for you then that's your way. I just prefer measuring.
@@TheExcellentLaborer Same. No matter how carefully I measure, it always ends up not quite right. I've had much better success dry-fitting.
Indentation
J-Bolt. Not an anchor bolt.
🤔
I didn't think you were supposed to put anchor bolts on a mortar joint.
Feowmm
it makes a n indention? no flashing? how about making it straight and square is your mason perfect? haha Dont follow this guy just because he has a video camera
What a piece of crap, where's your vert rebar and concrete filled cells? Those bolts will do didley squat, that wall would fail inspection in my area.