What's with all the generosity? We're supposed to be selfishly self-serving and then you go and post all of these super informative videos?! Thanks a thousand!
I think we ampoholics all share the same chassis-binging addiction. Our wives and friends may not understand us, but we all understand each other.....unless it gets too technical, and then Rusty and I fall asleep :)
@@UncleDoug You should get Cafe Press or similar to do a limited run 'Ampoholics' tshirt! They only print whats ordered so you can just send them a drawing and the rest is automatic.
Hi, Doug I m pretty sure that many viewers around the world are learning from your videos. I m french speaking , you explain very easily . Generous of you giving all your good information. My study in electronics repairs did not included the study of tubes. Now, i m confident on restoring my Guild S-200 stereo guitar amp. Merci beaucoup M. Doug pour votre générosité.
+Mathieu Coletta You are quite welcome, Mathieu. Rusty and I sincerely hope that our videos are clear and helpful to all those who are interested in tube amplifiers. Best of luck with your restoration project.
Uncle Doug , It was while watching THIS video that I finally had my “aha” moment; when the mystery of tube amp design and building that had been eluding me finally crystallized in perfect focus. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Jack just isn't cooperating. But, I got to thank you for the videos. I have a friend who repairs tube amps and builds cutoms, too. I'm learning from him a lot, hanging out in his shop. Having your videos is a real boost to my ability to understand what my friend is doing. I am so glad to be learning this craft. Thanks again.
Just finished my first build - scratch build- Cathode follower buffer amp, couldn't have done it without your videos dude! Thanks to you I don't just solder on components and hope it works, I know know what everything does and how to recognise and fix problems. Thanks a ton man!
This is my favorite part....the.."walk-thru"....I put it on a loop....love it....favorite part..... the walk thru....so clear....the schematic stuff is the best........thks unk
+William Earney We're glad you like it, William. I focus on schematics to help people learn how to interpret them on their own. It's like learning a new language, and essential to understand how circuits work.
This is why I love you Uncle Doug. I've been unsuccessfully amp hunting for years (including watching lots of your videos) and resigned myself to just learning how to design and build my dream amp instead... and then you come along and not only incorporate all of the elements I want, but you show me how to build it. Thanks!!!
+Moods_Tunes You're welcome, M_T. I highly recommend the final modified circuit for this amp project. It exceeded expectations in every way. Best of luck if you choose to build one.
+Uncle Doug Will Do. I've been searching for a low wattage single ended amp with good reverb and tremolo, so this looks perfect! i'm hoping this will pair nicely with a guitar i'm building with a p13 and supro pickup complement. Time to get working...
Excellent series and I like the approach to use an existing design and improve along the way. I've been looking for this type of amp (single ended with reverb and tremolo) for a long time and will probably break out the old soldering iron now...Hats off to Uncle Doug (and to Rusty and Jack)!!!
+Joachim Schranzhofer Thanks, Joachim. It is an interesting circuit and concept, and I'm glad you share my interest in it. Best of luck if you choose to make your own version.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us. I have learned a ton from your videos. I am very excited that you are documenting a scratch build. I am sure it will inspire many hobbyists and pros alike.
since the lock downs I started building guitars,I have 9 now..I'm gonna try my hand at this...never had a tube amp since childhood..traded one of my guitars for 1by12 cab and an orange hybrid tiny terror I cannot believe the tone I'm getting now..it is my fav.rig now....your very generous. ,thanks again
It has been such a blessing to have you and your helpers teach us in such a delightful way. It's the first time I have ever found a use for algebra and I love it. Thanks Doug for you generous time and God given talents. Marcel
+Marcel Pacheco You're welcome, Marcel, and thanks for your very kind and generous appraisal of our videos. We sincerely appreciate the time you have spent watching and commenting :)
Congrats on your PDF schematic and build plans, Very professional looking. And again lol Thank you for sharing your knowledge, seems like I say that to you a lot.
Whow! You are speaking directly to the heart of all ampaholics. Why did Fender put both halves of the 12AT7 together for the first stage of the reverb circuit? Does it double the amplification factor of the stage? Does the reverb tank require that much to preform well? You are doing what I and many amp builders have been dreaming of for series from you and Rusty and Jack. What a production crew! Thank you so much for these jewels! Thankz
+Audio Tech Labs A 12AX7 can tickle the (reverb) tank, but a double-barreled 12AT7 should kick the heck out of it. I imagine that a large 17" tank would take a lot more signal input (than the small, original one) to really shake up the springs. I've built Fender reverb amps before, but never grafted in a complete reverb circuit, so this will be a new experience for me too. I just don't see how it can help but sound wonderful :)
Uncle Doug With parallel 12AT7 sections, You get half the source impedance, double the current delivery compared to using one section triode. Slightly improved performance can be had with hard parallel plates by separating the cathodes from each other, each with its own cathode resistor and bypass cap. Grids should have a stopper of 1k to 300 ohms on each grid, with drive signal appearing at the junction of the 2 stoppers. Stoppers of higher ohm value only add noise, but with so many other high value resistors everywhere, it really only makes a very tiny difference.
Omg! The Fender Twin Reverb is the best sounding reverb in my opinion too! I used to jam, when I played drums more than guitar, with a guy who had one. It was absolutely incredible! Nothing like it that I heard before or since. I tried so many times to buy that amp off him...wouldn't sell. Smart man!
I have been watching you for some time and wanted to let you know how in debt to you so many of us are for your time and knowledge. The truth is I feel I know nothing (very little). I set out to learn so long ago but with several kids and life happening all around me the learning has gone slow. I can not take a college class, just do not have the time. This is so valuable to most of us and I thought that is was time to really let you know how much I appreciate these videos. I have learned more from you and your kind demeanor than anywhere else. I love you brother, Thank you. My 9 year old boy is learning from you and it is fun to watch. I would like to ask you, if it is possible for you, to walk through a schematic and an amp from beginning to end and explain what happens as the signal path moves through the input, tone stack and power section. I have spoken to some other guys in chat rooms and it is our missing link. It would put in perspective how all this works. I understand how most of the parts are comprised...such as caps, resistors, transformers etc. I do not completely understand the circuit from beginning to end. . . . . I have two Marshall Major amps with some obvious design flaws in the ultra linear circuit and as simple as this amp looks, I still do not fully understand it. (yes the plate voltage in this amp is about 580- yikes!!) It is the best sounding guitar amp I have ever heard hands down. I think I like the kt88s and the openness of the ultra linear circuit. I want to build some of these. I just feel I need to fully understand what is going on. I'm open to your thoughts. I make changes in resistors and caps but never know that what I'm doing is right, if that makes sense. I want to mod my amp but the understanding of this (resistor value or cap value) that makes this or that happen, is still not clear to me...I hope I do not sound as dumb as this makes me look... If you have the time, please feel free to respond in length, I would love to hear your and Rustys thoughts....ALL MY LOVE AND AGAIN THANK YOU SO MUCH
+Tonelives Greetings to you and your son, TL. I'm glad to hear that the videos have been helpful, and will keep your suggestion in mind for the future. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The only bad thing I see about this part two is we have to wait for part three. Other than that, it's straight out of the cool beans dept. Thanks UD..............Carl
I own this amp, it's an Airline sold by Monkey Ward but is the same amp internally. I have played with this circuit extensively, even had it going strong as an acoustic guitar amp at one point. You are doing what I did, basically making it a fender amp. I opted for dual 10's, I made a new speaker mount board and reclothed it, I believe I did a push pull 6v6 circuit in the end. I would have to dig it out and check, it's been awhile.
I think Jack and Rusty are co-conspirators in the "No Shits Given" movement.. gotta love em.. great series so far... as always, your videos are well thought out and always a pleasure to watch.. Thanks again for the effort..
This amp...is going to sound awesome! Also, my wife now likes your videos, due to the fact that our first cat was also a black Bombay...named Jack! No lie. Our Jack was a bit less of an accomplished soccer goalie, though. Relocating the tremolo intensity makes sense (can't say I would have spied the problem myself, though). Can't wait to hear the "Supro Tremol-(Fender)-Verb a la Uncle Doug-tube-switchable Amp!"
+Andy Reeves Thanks so much, Andy. In my haste to scrawl out a diagram of the intensity control, I showed its simple design, but was remiss in its location within the circuit. It's nice to get little glitches like this out of the way before the construction begins. Thanks for watching :)
Hello Doug. Fantastic video. Well thought out and explained. Rusty and Jack will steal the show if your not careful :) Jack is the Male version of my cat Molly. I lost my last Dog around 2002 and just haven't had the heart to adopt another one. I am very much looking forward to your next video in this series. Till then, Take care Doug. Bobby
+Bobby Tectalabyss Thanks so much, Bobby. I fully understand the attachment to and mourning of lost pets. Over the years, I have had to cope with it many times and it never gets easier. Meanwhile, and on a happier note, thanks for watching :)
Uncle Doug You are very welcome Doug :) I had a young wild Raccoon climb up on my knee tonight. What a great feeling :) to be trusted by something so wild. Take care Doug. Bobby
I had a wild young pole dancer climb on my knee once.....and it felt really good (as I recall). Seriously, it's good to hear that others share my love of animals, Bobby. They are one of life's greatest pleasures. Thanks for watching.
Uncle Doug The pole dancer sounds wonderful too :) Took my brother in-law to a topless bar for his Bachelor party years ago. We almost had to knock my wife's uncle out to get him out of the place Lol. Thank you for bringing back that good memory
Brilliant mods, loved them. I am very happy that you are allowing your own muse guide your decisions for modding here. Love every modification proposed. On to the next in this series.
Thanks a lot for the video, the tension is building on the build. You make things look so simple Doug, great explanations as ever. All the best to you and Jack ha ha cats are a funny lot and a high to Rusty too. Colin
Great video as always. I am really excited since this project has a 6L6/6V6 option. Something like this will make a great addition to my own amp collection. Can't wait! Thanks
+Steve Dewitt You're welcome, Steve. I'm doing this mostly out of curiosity regarding the uniqueness of an SE amp with Trem and Reverb, as well as why you almost never see a SE amp with 6L6 output. There is a chance that the 6L6 won't sound as good as the 6V6.....but at least we'll find out. Thanks for watching.
+Uncle Doug maybe we've not seen the SE 6L6 with Trem & Verb because its probably too Awesome and the kept it hidden away like the Kecksburg Acorn UFO---Can't wait to see and hear the results. Thanks again for all your hard work....tubing around!
You may be on to something, Mike. Maybe it's so fantastic that amp manufacturers are keeping it hidden, and only Eric, Jimmy, Jeff, and Stevie Ray were ever allowed to use one.....in the studio :)
+Tim Dockery Yes, indeed. "Mr." Rusty and "His Highness" Jack do have the same agent, and he has been squeezing my $@&%$ for salary raises and more (and more) perks. Pretty soon, I'll be working for them :)
Absolutely love the project! Just about any Valco amp is interesting. I was hoping for a Premier Reverb instead of the standard Fender. They are just so dark and rich and sound like nothing else. Other than that oh so minor disappointment I cannot wait for further videos. You are giving me confidence for a nice winter project----Thank you!!
+notanotherchad Thanks so much, Chad. To be honest, I never thought of using a Premier reverb circuit. I'm not familiar with the type of transformer or tank they use, and these parts may not still be available, so I would have probably used a Fender transformer and MOD or Accutronics tank anyway. I hope your disappointment fades when you hear it in action.
@@UncleDoug If I remember a comment correctly on Part One. there was the implication that the smaller reverb tank and its associated lower 'power' tube gave a kind of alternative reverb not found on other amps. While your mods dont stop anyone else trying a more original design, or sourcing an original amp, one wonders if you would have liked to have tried something that is theoretically 'weak' to see exactly how it sounds with a variety of pick-up input combinations.
Great work and thanks for sharing it all . have to say i recently built a SE champ workalike ,with a 5 watt OT which i plugged a 6L6 into and it worked quite nicely with a 470 ohm and 22uF bypass cap . no more power , just a different tone. Then just for giggles i tied pin 1 and pin 8 , and shoved an EL34 in there ,which yielded some of the charm of that tube .again no more power just different tone . all i did was borrow a bit more current to cope with the demand for the heater..Gotta love that self bias resistor.. Cheers..
+steeveejay Thanks for the input, Steevee. I gather that the bias switch is probably not necessary for tube exchanges, and that the cathode biasing can compensate for the differences between the 6V6, 6L6, and even an EL34. I thought this might be a possibility, but was going to test it to see, once the circuit was completed. I wonder if more power will be evident with a stouter (15W) OPT ??
Uncle Doug Always good for more headroom , Then if you build a silicon diode rectifier into an old octal socket your larger power tubes would be 50 or 60 volts happier . And good choice going to Triode elec for the transformers. i believe Valco got all their transformers in Chicago .I sourced the Magnetic bits there for the amp i mentioned .
This is great stuff! Can't wait for the rest of the series! Thanks for this. I'm actually a bass man, and would love to do a B15 clone of some variety in the future. This is all good info. Best regards.
+Julian Higgs You're welcome, Julian. Bass amps follow all the same rules, but often incorporate slightly different tone circuitry and higher power. Rusty and I hope you give it a try :)
I can't wait to see how this series turns out. Thanks again Uncle Doug, great to have you back! Just a heads up, the link at the end of this video seemed to take us to a video from last year instead of Part 3. You might want to fix that. Cheers!
+Admiral Quality You're welcome, AQ. I didn't add a link to the end, maybe YT did, simply because at the time I had not created or posted the follow-up video to which to link. I'm sorry if it happened and will look into it. Thanks for the tip.
+Uncle Doug Ah, YT decides itself what the next video is? It's algorithm must be failing. (Worked for the first video in this series though. I've never made a series so I haven't actually used the feature yet, if it's even offered.) Anyway, no biggie! I survived the considerably mild confusion with my sanity intact! ;)
WOW!! Excited for this build this what I want to do but can't seem to get the connection from the schematic to the build. Thank You again !!!! For your teaching.
+scott entrekin You're welcome, Scott. I think the transition from schematic to build is an obstacle for many people. Hopefully, this video series will help to remove it. Thanks for watching :)
I think I mention to you before that I have a Fender Hot Rod Deville. This is the 4 10 inch speaker version. It's very heavy and very loud. Anyway, I've never been very happy with the tone of it, and in retrospect, I should have bought a deluxe reverb. So a little while back I gutted the circuitry, and I'm going to put my own handwired circuit in there, based on a Deluxe Reverb with a few modifications. I left the tremolo part of the circuit out, but when it come to the reverb I ran into problems. I only had room on the chassis for 1 extra pre-amp tube, which meant I had to figure out a way to drive the whole reverb circuit with 1 pre-amp tube. It ended up being a reverb circuit that's all tube driven, but does not use a driving transformer. I hope to finish assembling this amp over the next few weeks, and I'll report back on how it turned out. All in all, it ended up being a very different approach to the classic tube driven reverb circuit used by Fender on those blackface amps.
+Alva Goldbook I have heard of purely tube-driven reverbs, Alva. I believe that some early Gibson amps did this, but to be honest, I have not heard much good about the resulting reverb tone and intensity. Fender used both triodes of a 12AT7 (a single pre-amp tube) to drive most of their reverbs, but then you need a 12AX7 triode to recover the signal. If you made the Deluxe Reverb circuit one-channel (Vibrato only, no Normal) perhaps you could "borrow" the Normal's 12AX7 for that purpose.
+Uncle Doug In researching this, I found a few circuits that did this, and Gibson was one of them. Oddly, one Gibson circuit (I forget which one) used a cathode follower to drive the reverb. The existing Hot Rod amp had 3 pre-amps, and the chassis has room for 1 more. I figured I would need 3 12ax7 gain stages for the main part of the pre-amp, and plus 2 more for the phase inverter. I opted to use the other gain stage for an added gain stage for more distortion, which is pretty similar to the Mesa Boogie Mark 1. So this left me with just 1 pre-amp tube for the entire reverb. Paul Faucett from the AX84 forum was nice enough to help me out with developing this circuit, he ran the SPICE simulations for me. The basic idea is to drive a reverb pan using one half of a 12AT7 using a standard gain stage. The 500pf grid cap filter is omitted, and a cathode bias cap and a coupling capacitor is used to filter out the undesirable frequencies. A resistor shunt to ground follows the plate, which filters other frequencies, but also drains the caps of voltage when the amp is turned off. The biggest problem is dealing with output impendence. But it's important to note that the input impendence of any reverb pan is only listed as it's impendence at 1kHZ. The pan itself acts as a _inductor_, and it's input impendence varies at different frequencies. Ohm's Law allows us to use this characteristic to drive current, which is what reverb pans really need to function. Since we need resistance to drive current, low impendence reverb tanks, like 8 ohms, won't work well. Luckily, higher impendence tanks are made, which are meant to be driven with solid state drivers. The tank that came on my Hot Rod amp is such a tank (Type E I believe), as it was driven by an op-amp in the original circuit. I think I'm going to replace it with a Type F. The reverb recovery will be the other half of the 12at7, and plus there is a final 12ax7 stage that will amplify it again, now mixed with the rest of the pre-amp circuit before the phase inverter. Here's a schematic. i.imgur.com/jIFd292.png
Very interesting, Alva. I was aware that the tube-driven (and solid-state-driven) tanks had much higher input impedance, but I was not aware of many of the details you provided. Using a cathode follower (as Gibson did) makes sense because they tend to convert voltage to current much like an output transformer does. Thanks so much for this information and be sure to let us know how it turns out.
Well, it all sounds pretty darn good to me (considering I know next to nothing about electronics design) BUT has Rusty approved the substitution of the 6V6 with the 6L6? Another stellar project Uncle Doug, I learn so much from watching your videos. Many thanks.
You're welcome, Stony, and thanks for your nice comments. Yes, both Rusty and Jack signed off on the tube substitution long before the video was produced :)
@@UncleDoug since watching your scratch built tube amp mini series, i'm better equipped to do a project that I've been wanting to do once i get some spare cash. I plan on gutting an old tube console radio and replacing the guts with a tube guitar amp section and a midfi stereo section. then i can run them simultaneously for music or separately for guitar
I built a 2 x 12AU7 preamp and the tremolo unit but haven't finished it to the push pull stage yet. (got a little heart trouble, slowed me up). A really great tool I use is LTSpice modelling and schematic software. The actual real amp turned out within a few percent of the modelled values. Another great thing is you can feed a guitar riff wav file to the model and get a wav file output, (Not real time of course) and I have to say the output file sounded fantastic, like the real thing. The only 'iffy' part was getting the right model software script for the particular tube behaviour, but it's out there and the result is a really impressive model. It's a lot of fun and you don't burn up good parts testing, well not until the very end ... :-)
@@UncleDoug Well it's free from Analog Devices www.analog.com/en/design-center/design-tools-and-calculators/ltspice-simulator.html ... although Jack will probably use it for Op Amp n Solid State stuff :-)
Excellent series, Uncle Doug! Thanks very much for sharing all of your knowledge. I've been looking for something special to do with all of the spare amp parts I've accumulated over the years and I think I've found it! The tremolo in Part 8 is unbelievable! I'd like to try it with a 4xEL84 output section left over from a previous build. I'll keep you posted. I'd also like to experiment with the second half of V1 to work by 'jumpering' pins 1-6, 2-7, and 3-8 similar to the AT7 in V3. I'm curious how that additional gain would affect the V1 tremolo.
+Bryan Ellis Thanks, Bryan. Glad you enjoyed the video series. The four output tube modification sounds interesting. I tried running the two triodes of the 12AX7 in parallel and got a small increase in gain, but a noticeable decrease in tone quality. Perhaps you can experiment and come up with a way to make it work. Best of luck.
You're welcome, Bryan. I guess the venerable old Fender Champ is a good example of the benefits of simplicity.....no frills at all, just great tone (in the right hands).
I had no idea I loved tube amps until I started watching your videos! I've just been getting into building my own electronics and, honest to goodness, watching the videos you make is getting me pretty excited about the whole concept. That being said, not sure I'm quite ready to build a full amp. If I could make a request: Could you maybe make a small headphone amplifier, just something really simple that I (and probably several other novices) could try and reproduce as a first step towards building a full guitar amp? If I could make a secondary request...it'd be nice if the parts list could come in under $50, I only have so much to throw at this new found hobby of mine...
Rusty and I stick strictly with tube guitar amps, Jay, but we have posted a video series on how to build a Fender Champ from scrap parts (i.e. found at garage sales, junk stores, etc.) that may be helpful. With some luck it may end up in your price range, but considering the current cost of tubes and speakers, it will probably end up higher. You could try the Internet for ideas on small headphone amps.
Hmmm, well, maybe if I just keep watching these things I can figure out a basic schematic on my own ^_^. I'll give the Champ series a look after I get through this one (heck, maybe I'll be ridiculous and modify a champ to do stereo and output to a 1/4" stereo). If it's over $50 well...just means I have to save a bit longer, that's fine :). Thanks a bunch for doing these videos! It's really helping bring everything I've learned over the last couple months into focus.
Uncle Doug Huh, why is that? (If you have a link to something that explains it, I'd be just as happy to read up on it. I don't want to turn this into a game of 20 questions or anything...) I would assume though, at very least, that there are a lot of similarities between tube guitar amps and tube headphone amps, right? The big different being how much power is involved and the whole stereo v. mono thing?
A stereo amp is basically two separate amps that may or may not share a power supply. To convert an existing tube monaural guitar amp into a stereo amp, you would have to double the circuit, completely redesign the power supply, and find a cabinet that could hold it all. Then, since the vast majority of guitar outputs are not in stereo, your efforts would be wasted.
+R HEIDEMAN Thanks, RH. We have a fishing-pole-like device with a stuffed mouse in the "bait" position, and he loves it. We wear him out playing with it at night so he'll sleep.....just like a baby.
just got around to this part. I find schematics always interesting. Very simple Class A circuit. As sa230e comments, putting an intensity pot in the cathode circuit may cause some issues depending on where the pot is in relation to ground,]as it acts as just a variable resistor and you turn it to minimum, the cathode will be grounded. Fender used a isolation neon/light dependent resistor (LDR) taken from the plate of the LFO phase shifting oscillator via the neon coupled LDR , into the wiper of a 50K pot and into the grid i/p signal of one half of the phasesplitter/driver. splitter. The 12AT7 (low mu) as a reverb tank driver is a good idea.
+SuperCarver2011 Thanks, SC. The Intensity Control placement has been altered for the reasons you stated. Here is a schematic of the circuit in its current state of evolution: www.tommyfoley.com/theuncledougtremoloreverb.jpg
I don't know if your drawings are only to illustrate the concept or if those are the actual circuits you plan to use but I noticed the tremolo intensity control will also affect the bias of the first 12AX7. If you dial it down to zero it will ground the cathode of the first stage, bias the triode very hot and probably cause a lot of distortion. I would put the intensity pot at the grid of the tremolo cathode follower.
+sa230e Excellent observations.....I see your point(s) and appreciate your input. The diagram was something I whipped up quickly to help viewers visualize how an Intensity control could work, but it does appear to alter the bias and enable grounding the V1 cathode. I think I'll follow your suggestion and move the pot connection to the grid. Thanks again.
+Uncle Doug Cool! It's fun to collaborate on this stuff. I'm thinking making that 220k resistor variable would be the easiest and most effective way to implement the intensity control. Best of luck on your build.
I agree. Several minds can produce a far better product than a single mind can :) Your suggestion would probably be the simplest approach. Are you thinking a 250KA pot, wired as a variable resistor (wiper and one side) ?
Exactly so, and the other problem is that the final 12AX7 section in the tremolo oscillator shares the 100R cathode resistor and bypass of the input 12AX7. It is not going to like having a 1M cathode resistor. It will probably over-bias itself into complete cutoff. NB Doug this section is a cathode follower, it doesn't provide any gain, only a low output impedance, which again you would mess up with the 1M pot. The suggestion to put it at the grid is a good one. Note also that as the tremolo oscillator only outputs subsonics, it doesn't really need a shield.
The proposed circuit at 03:50 connecting the cathode of V4 through a pot to cathode of V1 would alter the cathode bias. When then pot is turned toward ground it would jumper the resister and bypass cap at v1 cathode. Otherwise I get what you want to achieve. Very nice build by the way.
@@UncleDoug Sorry, I must have missed that. I'll have to check it out again. I did watch the whole series and the end product is extraordinary! You are amazing at cabinetry as well as tube electronics. Any further issues regarding CAThodes, ask Jack, he is the expert.
I often post my plans for projects in a video and then let knowledgeable viewers (like you) chime in with helpful suggestions in the Comments section, Daniel. That's what happened in this case and the schematic was altered as a result. Thanks for your very nice comments, both from me......and from Jack :)
Every time I rewatch your video's something I can't wrap my adled brain around becomes clearer!! This time??? How to low power high power an amp. My fantasy amp is a super reverb that runs 2 6v6's or 6l6's that can emulate all the black face amps in the 22 to 35 watt range by having various hand built speaker cabs! But the wife says no way!
Your plan is not all that bad, Russell. Give it a try. Tell your wife it's either amp experimentation or booze, gambling, and prostitutes. She'll change her tune ;)
Losing the Treble input circuitry might be a backward step. Would not an alternative be to have a couple of switches in the input circuit so that both the hi Z and lo Z can be switched as required through a bass cut (I presume as its not really a treble boost !!?) filter. I am a fan of as many inputs as possible though, having one Telecaster through the normal input and one thru a bass cut option would give an interesting mix signal for a pair of guitarists running harmonies or unison playing. Though of course you can argue as it is in the input stage it is merely replicating what the tone controls are doing on your guitar anyway. like all things it is do you keep the amplification simple, and run the effects as separate items outwith of the unit or move one or more effect and tone into the amplifier circuit at pre-pre amp, pre-amp or pre-output valve stages.
Hello, thank you for all the great videos. I am wondering about your tremolo intensity circuit however, I'm not sure it will work the way you envision. If you attach C the cathode of V1a to the wiper of the pot, by turning it down you will be grounding the cathode of V1a eliminating the bias resister and cap from the circuit and changing the gain and frequency response of your input stage. You might be able to do it if you insert a coupling cap between the the pot and V1a but you would also need to add in a bias resister to the tremolo tube since it currently is sharing V1a's bias. If that doesn't work you would have to probably add another stage and inject the tremolo signal down stream somewhere. I noticed there is half of a 12ax7 that is not being used. I would take a look at a Fender Twin tremolo circuit to see how its intensity is done. Thanks again for all the great content!
+Nick Clarity Thanks, Nick. The Tremolo Intensity problem has already been detected and corrected. I posted a note to this effect in the video. The pot will be attached to the grid of the second tremolo circuit tube, exactly like the volume control above it in the schematic. Also, I will convert the half-utilized 12AX7 into a fully-utilized 12AT7 to drive the reverb circuit.
I really appreciate your input and help, Nick. Always feel free to advise me whenever you see anything questionable. I'm always anxious to benefit from the knowledge of viewers. Thanks.
thanks doug, well im gona do the drive circit of a marshall drop the trem and do the reverb and trem valves to be overdrive. cheers doug. i got a zenith 30watt selmer amp combo with a good trem on it. like the 6l6 6v6 config.
It was apparent just how entrenched both Jack and Rusty were in their traditionalist leanings at the outset. Something tells me they could be won over to a more flexible outlook.
Hey Uncle Doug, What if I wanted to add a tone stack in replace of the tone knob. Something like a Treble and Bass control with a fixed Middle section?
Most amps I've seen have only one or two tone controls, Joseph. Use Google to find a schematic of an amp you like that uses the two controls and replicate the tone circuit.
Uncle Doug ok one last question is where do I start the circuit, do I get rid of the 500pF cap, the .005 uF cap, 470K res, and the 47K res? Thanks for your help. These videos are awesome!
Without a schematic and personal experience with this modification, I can't speculate, Joseph. I suggest that you experiment by removing and altering component values and see if you can't come up with a suitable configuration. Best of luck.
Thanks. Will you be explaining how to connect the tremolo circuit to the grid of your output tube? I'm building a parallel 6v6 amp with 6sl7 preamp. I want to steal the 6sl7 trem circuit from a reverbarocket 2, but not sure how to incorporate it properly. Hope your build will help clarify that for me. Keep up the good work!
+ej222 You're welcome, EJ. As I currently envision it, it will simply be a pot (1 Meg ?) in series between the right end of the 2200 ohm resistor beside V4 (second Trem tube) and ground, with the wiper connected to the tube's grid. This mimics the circuit's Volume Control (directly above, near top).
I have three Gibbs 17" reverb tanks and they have 160 ohm transformers / inductors / coils (what is the correct term?) on them and thats a difficult load to drive so I was wondering if I could use a parallel ECC83 as a cathode follower to do such a thing? Obviously I'd have to put almost a RIAA filter on the input else as reverb tanks apparently don't like bass much - see the 0.0005uF decoupling cap on the reverb input above! As ever, addicted to the channel, tempted to send you a 1080p camera though! :D
Thanks, Prince. I have a 1080P camera but the videos take too long to process at that resolution. Instead, I am uploading at 720P. Re the reverb tanks, the proper term is "transducer"......they turn electrical signals into physical motion (torsion of the springs) and vice-versa. Think of the tank as a speaker. If the input transducer has an impedance of 160 Ohms, then you need a tank-driving (output) transformer with a winding ratio that matches the driving tube's plate load to the tank's input impedance. This is why most reverb tanks in tube circuits have an 8 Ohm input impedance......driver transformers are easy to find.
@@UncleDoug - Transducer, of course! It was 2am when i wrote that. Also being thick; I'm measuring the tank with an ohm meter which is nothing to do with impedance and anyhow, if the 8 ohm output transformer see's 160 ohms it won't care. BTW, you left your full name on the Fender reverb document, I found your FaceBook page, now I know what you look like! :o)
Hi there, I m in the middle of building a CNC controller, and my plan is when Ive finished that, is to build a valve amp. Looks like Ive found your videos just in time. I might copy your design if I may. I would however, like to build an elaborate enclosure for it though, and maybe build it as a stand alone head with a separate cab. Im not sure yet. Thank you for the inspiration and education. Kev UK.
+kev keelan You're welcome, Kev. I will be building a vintage-style combo cabinet for this circuit, but a head version would make good sense, so you could avail yourself of an array of large, multiple speakers. I will incorporate a 4 and 8 ohm speaker output jack on the chassis, so that the cabinet speaker can be disconnected and a speaker cab can be used.....the best of both worlds :)
Sounds good, Ill look forward to seeing and hearing your finished project. Tubes in my opinion give a warmer richer sound than that of digital and makes for an interesting project. Best wishes.
Hey Uncle Dough, thanks for the video, looking forward to see the result, I'm wondering though, what do the resistors on the jack-inputs do to your sound? any particular reasons to pick a higher impendance over a lower one? (or is this just to balance out high output pickups vs low output ones?)
+Sander van der Zandt You're welcome, Sander. The higher value resistors really don't affect the incoming signal much in series because the signal is at a very low current level, but if you look at the schematic, these input resistors also provide a pathway to ground through the self-grounding input jacks. Lower values will allow too much signal to leak to ground and you will lose volume and high frequency.
Yes, when there is no instrument cable plugged into the jack, it automatically self-grounds to prevent any noise or RF interference. They are commonly used on just about all amps.
Hi Uncle Doug, you used a Vintage Jensen Ceramic C12Q 35W speaker. What other speakers do you reccomand? I obviously try to put in a good speaker that match this cabinet and circuit. What do you think about Eminence speakers like these 3: Texas Heat, Wizard and CV75?
Choosing speakers for someone is like choosing a wife for them. It's so personal and subjective. You need to do research on each speaker. The Wizard is 8 Ohm 75W but not recommended for open-backed cabinets. The CV75 is 16 Ohm, which would require a different OPT. The Texas Heat is 8 Ohm, OK with open-backed cabinet, but 150W (a bit excessive, but no harm). Thus, from your suggested speakers, the TH would be the best choice.
Uncle Doug thx again for time effort and your input about my suggested speakers. Thx a lot. I agree its a relative thing so not absolute. I decided to put in at least 3 speakers so i have some reference.
Uncle Doug...I follow all your changes....except the output Tubes....Since you are beefing up the output Transformer and going to a 12" speaker...What's the advantage of having the option of running the original 6V6 tubes when you have designed it for the beefy 6L6 ....is there some kind of "sonic" advantage?? Or you just want the option to swap out for some reason like .... a/b testing.??? Just asking.....just curious...B.
+William Earney I'm curious why there are so many SE amps with 6V6's and very, very few with 6L6's. The 6L6 should offer much more power while (hopefully) retaining the SE tone quality.....yet you almost never see it used in this manner. I would like the flexibility to be able to switch the output tubes and compare the sound quality of each. I may even try a 6F6 or some other uncommon tube.
+Uncle Doug Got it.... love to hear your final analysis....even if it's a year down the road...after you've lived with your final selection and tinkered. a bit.......Thanks...
Uncle Doug. I play thru silverface Twins ect. /w push/pull master vols I disconnect reverb tank and put 220k 1/2 watt resistor across the the hots on the reverb in/outs thus making the reverb pot distortion thus the ( ice cube mod ) with a 4x12 wired parallel it has a compressed heavy sound. Not quite your favorite type of sound. My question is , can that reverb circuit be used in something like what you are building to drive more gain like on the twins? My research shows you using a older reverb design.. thanks
IMHO the reverb circuit is intended purely to drive a reverb tank and recover the signal from it. I cannot see any way to utilize it to increase gain for the regular music signal. I can understand why it would be tempting to use those extra parts for another purpose, but cannot see any way to do it. Sorry.
It was a passing thought when you added the twin reverb circuit to your build. for the house I use a silvertone 1457 and a peavey Bravo, I like the dry and compressed mix of the 6v6 and el 84, I use mkii marshall and twin on stage . I am a true Fan of yours and the Pets thanks for the Reply Uncle Doug.
Not sure if you cover this in another video, but can you explain speaker wattage and impedance and how that relates to amp wattage. I am going to ask another question but before I do, I am trying to understand a bit on how you can build an amp with similar tonal qualities but at a reduced wattage...so with that in mind my next question. Besides picking the amp (pre -existing) of which you want to model after, then is it the tubes you decide on next or the speaker, I saw in another video you talked about knowing the speaker impedance, so you could ge the correct output transformer , than match the selected output transformer to the tubes that will work with it (OT).
Speaker wattage and impedance are covered in several videos. You must be sure the the speaker wattage is adequate to handle the output power of the amp, otherwise the speaker may overheat and be damaged. I would think that any fundamental change in a circuit, i.e. reduction of output power, would alter the tone. If you are modeling another amp, you simply use the same or very similar components.
I'm pretty new to this sort of thing. I used to work with a guy who knew all about this kind of stuff. He built/rebuilt all sorts of gear. (There's actually 2 poorly made videos of a reel to reel tape deck we rebuilt on my channel). But I was mostly just soldering things and grabbing tools for him. Recently, I rescued some old HV power supplies from the garbage. I thought I could maybe take all the components out and use them to start some sort of project. I think I want to build a bass amp, but I need to learn more about the process. Sadly, my friend who knew all this stuff passed away a few months ago. But these videos are already helping, and I'm only on part 2! Is it feasible to backwards engineer a power supply into an amplifier? Is it more trouble than it's worth? Am I better off just finding a schematic I want to try and start from scratch?
+Shane McGilloway Greetings, Shane. For a first build you would be far better off to pick a fairly simple amp, like a Fender Champ, download a schematic, and start from scratch. Good luck with your project.
It should be real beast (in a good way)! Jack is much bigger than his first YT appearance, but he fetches the way I play guitar.....going the wrong way. :))
+bullthrush He's a Jimi Hendrix fan, so I guess that explains it :) Yes, I hope it emits something other than just smoke when I'm finished.....but either way, it's more fun than watching re-runs of The View.
@@UncleDoug yes--- its on the uncle doug tremoverb off of v1(12ax7) there is a .015uf and then a .005uf-- i think the .015 is a coupling and the .005uf is a tone stack?-i might have answered my own question thanks for reply-
Uncle Doug, maybe you can shed some light on a troubleshooting issue I've recently run into. I fired up my '66 Twin Reverb for the first time in months. The tremolo roach is working because I can hear a ticking, but the tremolo effect is barely noticeable. However, the interesting thing is that when I turn my intensity knob down there is a corresponding volume increase in the amp. When the tremolo knob is turned all the way off there is quite an increase in amp volume. What do you make of this? I've never experienced a relationship like this with the intensity pot and the amps volume. It acts like the intensity pot is really draining some serious volume from the amp, but doing very little in terms of it's designed tremolo effect.
+rbauer1632 I would wonder about the status of the photo-resistor in your opto-isolator bundle. If you look at the schematic, the intensity control regulates how much rhythmic grounding the photo-resistor can apply to the signal entering the LTP Phase Inverter. If the resistance of the photo-resistor were significantly lowered, then the intensity control would behave like a volume control, grounding the signal (especially when the intensity was set high) before it could get to the PI. The ticking could simply be caused by the high voltage fluctuation in the neon bulb circuit. Check the components in and around the "bug".
Hello Uncle Doug, First of all, many thanks for all your videos, have been watching them non-stop for a week. They're so great and I'm learning so much! Regarding modifications. Would you ever replace/upgrade a tube-rectifier with a solid-state rectifier? Or if this is generally a bad idea, could you enlighten us?
+Vincent Herbst Greetings, Vincent, and welcome aboard The Rusty Express :) I am a purist when it comes to tube amps and would never convert from tube rectifier to solid-state (diodes), but I do see the advantages to SS rectification: cheaper, simpler, more efficient, higher voltages, less sag, etc.....but there is a certain, undeniable charm (and tone effect) in old-fashioned, inefficient tube rectification.
good afternoon Uncle Doug, if I only have a 250k Ω potentiometer but I need a 100kΩ potentiometer for the reverb circuit on the Tremo-verb can a 150kΩ resistor be added from the proper lug, (for lack of a better term) not the wiper, to ground, to make the pot resistance to 100k ?
No. You would be better off if the resistor bridged the two outer lugs, in parallel with the pot resistance, thus lowering it. You have to use the proper formula to determine total net resistance.....it's not as easy as simple subtraction.
@@UncleDoug ok I thought it would be a simple thang. what should be the highest watt rating for the potentiometers you use in your amp? and also all pots are logarithmic correct?
@@irusman62 I simply use the pots that are sold by AES in Tempe. Tone and volume pots are log, while some other pots, like tremolo speed, may be linear.
@@UncleDoug thanks Unc I’ve been scouring the internet to try and figure it out, I found a forum that has many schematics for many brands of amps and been going through them seeing if the types of pots are listed . Still have not found out one for the reverb intensity, I’ll have a look at AES . I’m trying to purchase from a Canadian supplier as shipping , brokerage fees and tax and duty plus the exchange rate double the USD prices. But your continued help is very appreciated.
Love this series Uncle Doug. It is inspiring me to add a tremolo and reverb circuit to a 5E3 build project I have been planning. I reviewed all the comments - but didn't see this question: Regarding adapting the circuit to accommodate both the 6L6 and 6V6 output tubes. Do both tubes have the same Plate Impedance characteristics - such that a single output transformer will reflect to the same speaker impedance (i.e. 8 Ohms) with out any circuit mods ?? Thanks again for all of the inspiration !!! -- Don
+Donald Filbert Thanks, Don. Glad the series is helpful. Yes, they both have the same load resistance and therefore the tube socket can be connected to the output transformer and will work regardless of which output tube is plugged in. This was essential for the swapping concept to work.
Hi Uncle Doug, I'm currently building a single ended amp, very similar to your plans here ( I downloaded the schematics). One question please: I have 4 22uF 450V caps available. Do you think I should put all 4 like you did here, and split the resistor of 10K in half? What is the advantage compared to using 3 caps?
It would help if you provided a schematic, Ivan. I have no idea which Champ circuit you are referring to. My suggestion would be to duplicate the schematic. Use the same cap and resistor values that they suggest.
Thank you for your response @@UncleDoug. It's the 5F1 circuit which has 3 filter caps. I modified the 5F1 schematic so I use 3 x 22uF caps (5F1 calls for 16uF-8uF-8uF). I also have one more additional 22uF cap that I could add, so I was wondering - what is the advantage of adding one more additional filter cap? Will this reduce the hum or something? I'm sorry if it's trivial question, I just started with electronics 4 months ago, and couldn't find proper answer on the internet.
I think you may be overdoing it with the filter caps, Ivan. You have doubled the capacitance and are considering adding more. All the circuit needed was 16/8/8uf. The added capacitance will stress your rectifier tube on startup and probably provide no noticeable reduction in hum. It's best to stick with traditional values.
I think you were right when you asked for the schematics, but I feared that I'm going to bother you too much with this, which I did anyway. I hope you don't mind, and I appreciate your help. Could you please check the schematics here: tinyurl.com/y777zo2q, and help me determine if the setup is okay? Thanks..
Hello Doug, I am looking fwd to the next instalment. One question I have in general about vintage tube amps. Why do you think most were manufactured with the tubes facing down. As heat rises I would have thought better heat dissipation from the hottest part of the amp, i.e. the tubes would have been achieved if the tubes were upright. This would also reduce residual heat passing into the chassis via convection.Thus reducing additional heat throughout the other electrical componentry. Space and overall height of the cabinet could be the reason however this does not make too much sense given the heat problem of all tube amps. Do you have any theories? Are you likely to follow an upside down plan?
+allanpennington I completely agree that the best orientation for tubes is upright with their bases down. Upside-down tubes do tend to absorb more of their own heat and to heat the chassis above them. Early amps were almost all configured this way. However, to make the controls convenient for the user (i.e. at the top of the amp), many manufacturers (i.e. Fender) started putting the chassis in the ceiling of the cabinet with the tubes hanging downward. Another option, but more expensive to build, is to put the control panel at the top of the cabinet and the chassis on the floor, with an umbilical cord of (mostly shielded) wires to connect them......like the Kay amp in my recent video series. I am going to hang the Supro tubes upside-down, as they were originally.
This will sound like a real "come-on" but under normal circumstances, Jack will retrieve the paper toy quite a few times.....bringing it right back to me each time. Naturally, for the video he did everything wrong, but I thought it was funnier that way.
Great Video Uncle Doug. I'm on the verge of building a Fender Champ clone. I'm interested in that mod that you're going to make re: the AB switch for a 6L6 or 6V6 for the output tube. Is it possible to do that with the "Champ" circuit"? Meaning...is it as simple as having a variable bias resistor switch and of course upgrade the output transformer to support the increased current draw from the 6L6? Great videos! Thanks, Joe
Greetings, Joe. Yes, if you provide a switchable bias resistance that suits both output tubes, you can interchange a 6V6 and 6L6. There are two other requirements, however. 1.) The output transformer must be able to handle the higher output power of the 6L6. 2.) The power (not output) transformer must be able to handle the higher current demands of the 6L6. Bear in mind, also, that due to the difference in load resistance between the two tubes, the primary impedance of a single output transformer cannot exactly match both tubes, but the result is generally quite acceptable.
hello there Uncle Doug, would you happen to know what changes were made from the tremoverb oct to nov schematic? I know its been awhile, I’ll continue trying to find the change or changes. I used the oct ver to do my parts take off :^|
the only change I found was the text for the tube designation on the bias switch, they were in reverse , so just a text placement error that was fixed. but I could have swore there was a parts sheet, probably was a different video/project
@@irusman62 I thought there was a parts list also, Russell. As far as the schematic changes, you can compare the two diagrams as well as I can. Good luck with your project.
@@UncleDoug yes I did that found only change was the bias switch text was in reversed . I think the parts list was for the mystery app build , once I get my list completed I will send it to you on the face book page
What about a 6EZ8 (1.5 12AT7) for the Reverb Circuit rather than a 12AT7? Uncle Doug, you've inspired me to construct a JCM800 model with a tremo-verb in the circuit. I came across the suggestion of a 6EZ8, but I'm asking you if it is feasible, more effective, or just to far out of the scope of the design. What do you think, Uncle Doug? By the way, thank you for your pedagogy, I am new to designing circuits like this, and am giving you full credit with this multiple Part deep dive review and my upcoming completed project. Much appreciation and I hope you are well.
That's good to hear, Erik. I am not familiar with the 6EZ8 tube, so I really can't offer any wise predictions about its use in your circuit project. Good luck.
+marcus ravn Thanks, Marcus. No, I only work with vintage guitar amps and circuits. I guess I'll have to leave the Hi-Fi to others who know a lot more about it than I do. There are a whole bunch of them on RUclips and the Internet.
Amen, Dave. The problem with rarity and age is that they don't automatically equate to "valuable". I have some really unusual old shirts in my closet.....but no one seems very interested in buying they from me :)
Hallo, I really enjoy your videos and I am learning a lot. I plan to read myself into amp schematics for some time, before I have the convidence to build my own amp. Is it right that the 2nd half of the input 12ax7 is unused in this amp? Best wishes from Germany!
@@UncleDoug I've been meaning to ask about this specific topic. I've been researching how I could utilize the second half as an additional gain stage. Would you mind sharing what you tried? I own a Vox AC4c1-BL and it utilizes 1/2 of one of it's two 12AX7s as a gain stage at the front end of the amp. I have to say the gain stage adds some pretty tasty grit up to about 8, before it starts sounding kind of cheesey.
Hi Uncle Doug, where is your favorite source for amp schematics, say a JCM 800. I've seen so many floating around out there, most not the same. Any suggestions?
I simply do Google searches for specific schematics and then pick the one that best matches the circuit I am working on, Reid. I have not found one site that offers all the best schematics, thus I prefer to "shop around".
The best way to gain experience is to carefully experiment with a circuit. You also need to build and use a current limiter (see my video on how to build one) to prevent damage to the circuit during this process. Good luck.
What's with all the generosity? We're supposed to be selfishly self-serving and then you go and post all of these super informative videos?!
Thanks a thousand!
+jrcenina85 Rusty, Jack, and I are just hooked on show biz, I guess.....and why not "Thanks a million" , JR? Are you being selfish ? :))
+Uncle Doug Haha, well a crowd of pupils are here to feed your addiction!
I think we ampoholics all share the same chassis-binging addiction. Our wives and friends may not understand us, but we all understand each other.....unless it gets too technical, and then Rusty and I fall asleep :)
@@UncleDoug You should get Cafe Press or similar to do a limited run 'Ampoholics' tshirt! They only print whats ordered so you can just send them a drawing and the rest is automatic.
Hi, Doug I m pretty sure that many viewers around the world are learning from your videos. I m french speaking , you explain very easily . Generous of you giving all your good information. My study in electronics repairs did not included the study of tubes. Now, i m confident on restoring my Guild S-200 stereo guitar amp. Merci beaucoup M. Doug pour votre générosité.
+Mathieu Coletta You are quite welcome, Mathieu. Rusty and I sincerely hope that our videos are clear and helpful to all those who are interested in tube amplifiers. Best of luck with your restoration project.
This little series tasted even better the second time around.
Glad you enjoyed it, AZ.
Uncle Doug , It was while watching THIS video that I finally had my “aha” moment; when the mystery of tube amp design and building that had been eluding me finally crystallized in perfect focus. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
That's great to hear, Shimmy. Glad it was informative :)
Jack just isn't cooperating. But, I got to thank you for the videos. I have a friend who repairs tube amps and builds cutoms, too. I'm learning from him a lot, hanging out in his shop. Having your videos is a real boost to my ability to understand what my friend is doing. I am so glad to be learning this craft. Thanks again.
You're welcome, Allen. Good luck with your continued acquisition of knowledge.
Just finished my first build - scratch build- Cathode follower buffer amp, couldn't have done it without your videos dude! Thanks to you I don't just solder on components and hope it works, I know know what everything does and how to recognise and fix problems. Thanks a ton man!
Congratulations on completing your first scratch-build, AT. We're really glad to hear that our videos were helpful.
This is my favorite part....the.."walk-thru"....I put it on a loop....love it....favorite part..... the walk thru....so clear....the schematic stuff is the best........thks unk
+William Earney We're glad you like it, William. I focus on schematics to help people learn how to interpret them on their own. It's like learning a new language, and essential to understand how circuits work.
This is why I love you Uncle Doug. I've been unsuccessfully amp hunting for years (including watching lots of your videos) and resigned myself to just learning how to design and build my dream amp instead... and then you come along and not only incorporate all of the elements I want, but you show me how to build it. Thanks!!!
+Moods_Tunes You're welcome, M_T. I highly recommend the final modified circuit for this amp project. It exceeded expectations in every way. Best of luck if you choose to build one.
+Uncle Doug Will Do. I've been searching for a low wattage single ended amp with good reverb and tremolo, so this looks perfect! i'm hoping this will pair nicely with a guitar i'm building with a p13 and supro pickup complement. Time to get working...
Good luck with your project. Let us know how it turns out.
Excellent series and I like the approach to use an existing design and improve along the way. I've been looking for this type of amp (single ended with reverb and tremolo) for a long time and will probably break out the old soldering iron now...Hats off to Uncle Doug (and to Rusty and Jack)!!!
+Joachim Schranzhofer Thanks, Joachim. It is an interesting circuit and concept, and I'm glad you share my interest in it. Best of luck if you choose to make your own version.
I am so glad I found your channel. You are one of the best teachers I have ever ran across. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, Robert. We will..... :)
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us. I have learned a ton from your videos. I am very excited that you are documenting a scratch build. I am sure it will inspire many hobbyists and pros alike.
+donktonk1 You're welcome, DT. Thanks for watching.
since the lock downs I started building guitars,I have 9 now..I'm gonna try my hand at this...never had a tube amp since childhood..traded one of my guitars for 1by12 cab and an orange hybrid tiny terror I cannot believe the tone I'm getting now..it is my fav.rig now....your very generous. ,thanks again
You're welcome, WJ. Best of luck with your new hobby.
It has been such a blessing to have you and your helpers teach us in such a delightful way. It's the first time I have ever found a use for algebra and I love it.
Thanks Doug for you generous time and God given talents.
Marcel
+Marcel Pacheco You're welcome, Marcel, and thanks for your very kind and generous appraisal of our videos. We sincerely appreciate the time you have spent watching and commenting :)
Congrats on your PDF schematic and build plans, Very professional looking. And again lol Thank you for sharing your knowledge, seems like I say that to you a lot.
You're welcome, Pat :)
I'm at the edge of my seat! great series!
I agree with the unknown scratch build design that you propose; can't wait to see the results.
+John Cunningham I think you will like it, John.....so stay tuned.
Whow! You are speaking directly to the heart of all ampaholics. Why did Fender put both halves of the 12AT7 together for the first stage of the reverb circuit? Does it double the amplification factor of the stage? Does the reverb tank require that much to preform well? You are doing what I and many amp builders have been dreaming of for series from you and Rusty and Jack. What a production crew! Thank you so much for these jewels! Thankz
+Audio Tech Labs A 12AX7 can tickle the (reverb) tank, but a double-barreled 12AT7 should kick the heck out of it. I imagine that a large 17" tank would take a lot more signal input (than the small, original one) to really shake up the springs. I've built Fender reverb amps before, but never grafted in a complete reverb circuit, so this will be a new experience for me too. I just don't see how it can help but sound wonderful :)
Uncle Doug With parallel 12AT7 sections,
You get half the source impedance, double the current delivery compared to using one section triode. Slightly improved
performance can be had with hard parallel plates by separating the cathodes from each other, each with its own cathode resistor and bypass cap. Grids should have a stopper of 1k to 300 ohms on each grid, with drive signal appearing at the junction of the 2 stoppers. Stoppers of higher ohm value only add noise, but with so many other high value resistors everywhere, it really only makes a very tiny difference.
Omg! The Fender Twin Reverb is the best sounding reverb in my opinion too! I used to jam, when I played drums more than guitar, with a guy who had one. It was absolutely incredible! Nothing like it that I heard before or since. I tried so many times to buy that amp off him...wouldn't sell. Smart man!
They are wonderful amps for sure.
just watching this series for the first time....really enjoying it...your choice of mods is exactly what I thought as well so this is fun to watch!
We're glad to hear that.....thanks for watching :)
Keep it up Doug, always love your videos - greetings from northern NSW Australia
+BaseandGlider We will, B&G. Thanks for the kind words and best regards from West Texas, USA.
Great mod suggestions! Looking forward to part 3!
+redfishbum Thanks, Red. It should be posted in the next few days.
I have been watching you for some time and wanted to let you know how in debt to you so many of us are for your time and knowledge. The truth is I feel I know nothing (very little). I set out to learn so long ago but with several kids and life happening all around me the learning has gone slow. I can not take a college class, just do not have the time. This is so valuable to most of us and I thought that is was time to really let you know how much I appreciate these videos. I have learned more from you and your kind demeanor than anywhere else. I love you brother, Thank you.
My 9 year old boy is learning from you and it is fun to watch.
I would like to ask you, if it is possible for you, to walk through a schematic and an amp from beginning to end and explain what happens as the signal path moves through the input, tone stack and power section. I have spoken to some other guys in chat rooms and it is our missing link. It would put in perspective how all this works. I understand how most of the parts are comprised...such as caps, resistors, transformers etc. I do not completely understand the circuit from beginning to end. . . . .
I have two Marshall Major amps with some obvious design flaws in the ultra linear circuit and as simple as this amp looks, I still do not fully understand it. (yes the plate voltage in this amp is about 580- yikes!!) It is the best sounding guitar amp I have ever heard hands down. I think I like the kt88s and the openness of the ultra linear circuit. I want to build some of these. I just feel I need to fully understand what is going on. I'm open to your thoughts. I make changes in resistors and caps but never know that what I'm doing is right, if that makes sense. I want to mod my amp but the understanding of this (resistor value or cap value) that makes this or that happen, is still not clear to me...I hope I do not sound as dumb as this makes me look...
If you have the time, please feel free to respond in length, I would love to hear your and Rustys thoughts....ALL MY LOVE AND AGAIN THANK YOU SO MUCH
+Tonelives Greetings to you and your son, TL. I'm glad to hear that the videos have been helpful, and will keep your suggestion in mind for the future. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The only bad thing I see about this part two is we have to wait for part three. Other than that, it's straight out of the cool beans dept. Thanks UD..............Carl
+skycarl I second that
+skycarl Thanks, Carl. You won't have to wait too long, it's almost finished.
I own this amp, it's an Airline sold by Monkey Ward but is the same amp internally. I have played with this circuit extensively, even had it going strong as an acoustic guitar amp at one point. You are doing what I did, basically making it a fender amp. I opted for dual 10's, I made a new speaker mount board and reclothed it, I believe I did a push pull 6v6 circuit in the end. I would have to dig it out and check, it's been awhile.
Let us know what you find, Tom.
I think Jack and Rusty are co-conspirators in the "No Shits Given" movement.. gotta love em.. great series so far... as always, your videos are well thought out and always a pleasure to watch.. Thanks again for the effort..
+kujawat You're welcome, Kuja. I think you're right about Rusty and Jack.....about the only sh*ts they give are in the catbox and the back yard :)
This amp...is going to sound awesome! Also, my wife now likes your videos, due to the fact that our first cat was also a black Bombay...named Jack! No lie. Our Jack was a bit less of an accomplished soccer goalie, though. Relocating the tremolo intensity makes sense (can't say I would have spied the problem myself, though). Can't wait to hear the "Supro Tremol-(Fender)-Verb a la Uncle Doug-tube-switchable Amp!"
+Andy Reeves Thanks so much, Andy. In my haste to scrawl out a diagram of the intensity control, I showed its simple design, but was remiss in its location within the circuit. It's nice to get little glitches like this out of the way before the construction begins. Thanks for watching :)
Great video series Uncle Doug. Waiting to see more...
+Olli Kivelä Thanks, Olli. I am uploading Part 3 as we speak. It should be available in a few hours.
Diggin the proposed changes UD. Looking forward to part 3! Thanks again for your vids
+wreckoningday You're welcome, WD. Let's hope it all works out in the end :)
Hello Doug. Fantastic video. Well thought out and explained. Rusty and Jack will steal the show if your not careful :) Jack is the Male version of my cat Molly. I lost my last Dog around 2002 and just haven't had the heart to adopt another one. I am very much looking forward to your next video in this series. Till then,
Take care Doug.
Bobby
+Bobby Tectalabyss Thanks so much, Bobby. I fully understand the attachment to and mourning of lost pets. Over the years, I have had to cope with it many times and it never gets easier. Meanwhile, and on a happier note, thanks for watching :)
Uncle Doug
You are very welcome Doug :) I had a young wild Raccoon climb up on my knee tonight. What a great feeling :) to be trusted by something so wild.
Take care Doug.
Bobby
I had a wild young pole dancer climb on my knee once.....and it felt really good (as I recall). Seriously, it's good to hear that others share my love of animals, Bobby. They are one of life's greatest pleasures. Thanks for watching.
Uncle Doug
The pole dancer sounds wonderful too :) Took my brother in-law to a topless bar for his Bachelor party years ago. We almost had to knock my wife's uncle out to get him out of the place Lol. Thank you for bringing back that good memory
You're welcome, Bobby :)
UD, your videos are top notch! Looking forward to the further details, including the Jack & Rusty Show segment.
+GmanMusicProductions Thanks, G-Man. They are busily planning their next performances :)
Brilliant mods, loved them. I am very happy that you are allowing your own muse guide your decisions for modding here. Love every modification proposed. On to the next in this series.
Thanks, Mod.....glad you are enjoying the series.
Thanks a lot for the video, the tension is building on the build. You make things look so simple Doug, great explanations as ever. All the best to you and Jack ha ha cats are a funny lot and a high to Rusty too. Colin
+mixolydian2010 You're welcome, Colin. It's always good to hear from you. Glad you're enjoying the videos :)
This is great. Can't wait to see the build. Love the pets too!
+Barnekkid Thanks, BK :)
Great video as always. I am really excited since this project has a 6L6/6V6 option. Something like this will make a great addition to my own amp collection. Can't wait! Thanks
+Steve Dewitt You're welcome, Steve. I'm doing this mostly out of curiosity regarding the uniqueness of an SE amp with Trem and Reverb, as well as why you almost never see a SE amp with 6L6 output. There is a chance that the 6L6 won't sound as good as the 6V6.....but at least we'll find out. Thanks for watching.
+Uncle Doug maybe we've not seen the SE 6L6 with Trem & Verb because its probably too Awesome and the kept it hidden away like the Kecksburg Acorn UFO---Can't wait to see and hear the results. Thanks again for all your hard work....tubing around!
You may be on to something, Mike. Maybe it's so fantastic that amp manufacturers are keeping it hidden, and only Eric, Jimmy, Jeff, and Stevie Ray were ever allowed to use one.....in the studio :)
Excellent explanations and good ideas! I can't wait to see the finished product!
+Learner-Learns Thanks, L-L. Neither can Rusty or I :)
Looks like Jack has the same agent as Rusty......er..... uh.... I mean Mr Rusty! Looking forward to Part 3!
+Tim Dockery Yes, indeed. "Mr." Rusty and "His Highness" Jack do have the same agent, and he has been squeezing my $@&%$ for salary raises and more (and more) perks. Pretty soon, I'll be working for them :)
Absolutely love the project! Just about any Valco amp is interesting. I was hoping for a Premier Reverb instead of the standard Fender. They are just so dark and rich and sound like nothing else. Other than that oh so minor disappointment I cannot wait for further videos. You are giving me confidence for a nice winter project----Thank you!!
+notanotherchad Thanks so much, Chad. To be honest, I never thought of using a Premier reverb circuit. I'm not familiar with the type of transformer or tank they use, and these parts may not still be available, so I would have probably used a Fender transformer and MOD or Accutronics tank anyway. I hope your disappointment fades when you hear it in action.
@@UncleDoug If I remember a comment correctly on Part One. there was the implication that the smaller reverb tank and its associated lower 'power' tube gave a kind of alternative reverb not found on other amps. While your mods dont stop anyone else trying a more original design, or sourcing an original amp, one wonders if you would have liked to have tried something that is theoretically 'weak' to see exactly how it sounds with a variety of pick-up input combinations.
Great work and thanks for sharing it all . have to say i recently built a SE champ workalike ,with a 5 watt OT which i plugged a 6L6 into and it worked quite nicely with a 470 ohm and 22uF bypass cap . no more power , just a different tone. Then just for giggles i tied pin 1 and pin 8 , and shoved an EL34 in there ,which yielded some of the charm of that tube .again no more power just different tone . all i did was borrow a bit more current to cope with the demand for the heater..Gotta love that self bias resistor.. Cheers..
+steeveejay Thanks for the input, Steevee. I gather that the bias switch is probably not necessary for tube exchanges, and that the cathode biasing can compensate for the differences between the 6V6, 6L6, and even an EL34. I thought this might be a possibility, but was going to test it to see, once the circuit was completed. I wonder if more power will be evident with a stouter (15W) OPT ??
Uncle Doug Always good for more headroom , Then if you build a silicon diode rectifier into an old octal socket your larger power tubes would be 50 or 60 volts happier . And good choice going to Triode elec for the transformers. i believe Valco got all their transformers in Chicago .I sourced the Magnetic bits there for the amp i mentioned .
A good suggestion, Steevee, and thumbs up to Triode.....they're my favorite transformer source.
Great video. Many thanks Doug.
Love this proposal very much! Thank you for your work!
You're welcome, KM :)
Merry Xmas and a superb 2018 to Uncle Doug, Jack and Rusty.
May all your wishes be amplified : )
Thanks so much, FB. Same to you, from all of us :)
Hi Uncle Doug, With the changes you have outlined I bet your amp will have a lot more Va Va Voom. Can't wait.
+Jeff M I hope, Jeff. I guess we'll find out in a few weeks. Keep your fingers crossed :)
This is great stuff! Can't wait for the rest of the series! Thanks for this. I'm actually a bass man, and would love to do a B15 clone of some variety in the future. This is all good info. Best regards.
+Julian Higgs You're welcome, Julian. Bass amps follow all the same rules, but often incorporate slightly different tone circuitry and higher power. Rusty and I hope you give it a try :)
I can't wait to see how this series turns out. Thanks again Uncle Doug, great to have you back!
Just a heads up, the link at the end of this video seemed to take us to a video from last year instead of Part 3. You might want to fix that.
Cheers!
+Admiral Quality You're welcome, AQ. I didn't add a link to the end, maybe YT did, simply because at the time I had not created or posted the follow-up video to which to link. I'm sorry if it happened and will look into it. Thanks for the tip.
+Uncle Doug Ah, YT decides itself what the next video is? It's algorithm must be failing. (Worked for the first video in this series though. I've never made a series so I haven't actually used the feature yet, if it's even offered.)
Anyway, no biggie! I survived the considerably mild confusion with my sanity intact! ;)
That's good news, AQ. More than most of us can say :)
+Uncle Doug (It is quite possible that I'm not enough of an objective observer to have a right to form that opinion. ;)
I guess we'll have to poll your associates to verify (or negate) your assertion.....
Great video, thanks Uncle Doug!
+TVtubeamps You're welcome, TV :)
can't wait for part 3!
+JJ Kentala You won't have to wait long, JJ. I am uploading it as we speak. It should be available in a few hours.
WOW!! Excited for this build this what I want to do but can't seem to get the connection from the schematic to the build.
Thank You again !!!!
For your teaching.
+scott entrekin You're welcome, Scott. I think the transition from schematic to build is an obstacle for many people. Hopefully, this video series will help to remove it. Thanks for watching :)
I think I mention to you before that I have a Fender Hot Rod Deville. This is the 4 10 inch speaker version. It's very heavy and very loud. Anyway, I've never been very happy with the tone of it, and in retrospect, I should have bought a deluxe reverb. So a little while back I gutted the circuitry, and I'm going to put my own handwired circuit in there, based on a Deluxe Reverb with a few modifications. I left the tremolo part of the circuit out, but when it come to the reverb I ran into problems. I only had room on the chassis for 1 extra pre-amp tube, which meant I had to figure out a way to drive the whole reverb circuit with 1 pre-amp tube. It ended up being a reverb circuit that's all tube driven, but does not use a driving transformer. I hope to finish assembling this amp over the next few weeks, and I'll report back on how it turned out. All in all, it ended up being a very different approach to the classic tube driven reverb circuit used by Fender on those blackface amps.
+Alva Goldbook I have heard of purely tube-driven reverbs, Alva. I believe that some early Gibson amps did this, but to be honest, I have not heard much good about the resulting reverb tone and intensity. Fender used both triodes of a 12AT7 (a single pre-amp tube) to drive most of their reverbs, but then you need a 12AX7 triode to recover the signal. If you made the Deluxe Reverb circuit one-channel (Vibrato only, no Normal) perhaps you could "borrow" the Normal's 12AX7 for that purpose.
+Uncle Doug In researching this, I found a few circuits that did this, and Gibson was one of them. Oddly, one Gibson circuit (I forget which one) used a cathode follower to drive the reverb.
The existing Hot Rod amp had 3 pre-amps, and the chassis has room for 1 more. I figured I would need 3 12ax7 gain stages for the main part of the pre-amp, and plus 2 more for the phase inverter. I opted to use the other gain stage for an added gain stage for more distortion, which is pretty similar to the Mesa Boogie Mark 1.
So this left me with just 1 pre-amp tube for the entire reverb. Paul Faucett from the AX84 forum was nice enough to help me out with developing this circuit, he ran the SPICE simulations for me.
The basic idea is to drive a reverb pan using one half of a 12AT7 using a standard gain stage. The 500pf grid cap filter is omitted, and a cathode bias cap and a coupling capacitor is used to filter out the undesirable frequencies. A resistor shunt to ground follows the plate, which filters other frequencies, but also drains the caps of voltage when the amp is turned off.
The biggest problem is dealing with output impendence. But it's important to note that the input impendence of any reverb pan is only listed as it's impendence at 1kHZ. The pan itself acts as a _inductor_, and it's input impendence varies at different frequencies. Ohm's Law allows us to use this characteristic to drive current, which is what reverb pans really need to function.
Since we need resistance to drive current, low impendence reverb tanks, like 8 ohms, won't work well. Luckily, higher impendence tanks are made, which are meant to be driven with solid state drivers. The tank that came on my Hot Rod amp is such a tank (Type E I believe), as it was driven by an op-amp in the original circuit. I think I'm going to replace it with a Type F.
The reverb recovery will be the other half of the 12at7, and plus there is a final 12ax7 stage that will amplify it again, now mixed with the rest of the pre-amp circuit before the phase inverter.
Here's a schematic.
i.imgur.com/jIFd292.png
Very interesting, Alva. I was aware that the tube-driven (and solid-state-driven) tanks had much higher input impedance, but I was not aware of many of the details you provided. Using a cathode follower (as Gibson did) makes sense because they tend to convert voltage to current much like an output transformer does. Thanks so much for this information and be sure to let us know how it turns out.
The Uncle Doug 001 amp circuit. Cool!
+Greg's Garage Thanks, GG. I hope it works when I'm finished :)
Well, it all sounds pretty darn good to me (considering I know next to nothing about electronics design) BUT has Rusty approved the substitution of the 6V6 with the 6L6? Another stellar project Uncle Doug, I learn so much from watching your videos. Many thanks.
You're welcome, Stony, and thanks for your nice comments. Yes, both Rusty and Jack signed off on the tube substitution long before the video was produced :)
can't wait to see how you wire this up!
+EXPLORING AUDIO I'm machining the chassis at the moment. Wiring should begin soon :)
good upgrade choices.. seems lile a very promising project
It was, Emmett. Thanks.
@@UncleDoug since watching your scratch built tube amp mini series, i'm better equipped to do a project that I've been wanting to do once i get some spare cash. I plan on gutting an old tube console radio and replacing the guts with a tube guitar amp section and a midfi stereo section. then i can run them simultaneously for music or separately for guitar
@@sherpadelgatos That sounds like an interesting project, Emmett. Please let us know how it turns out.
@@UncleDoug yes ill let u know. it'll be a while tho since i don't have the money yet
I built a 2 x 12AU7 preamp and the tremolo unit but haven't finished it to the push pull stage yet. (got a little heart trouble, slowed me up).
A really great tool I use is LTSpice modelling and schematic software. The actual real amp turned out within a few percent of the modelled values.
Another great thing is you can feed a guitar riff wav file to the model and get a wav file output, (Not real time of course) and I have to say the output file sounded fantastic, like the real thing. The only 'iffy' part was getting the right model software script for the particular tube behaviour, but it's out there and the result is a really impressive model. It's a lot of fun and you don't burn up good parts testing, well not until the very end ...
:-)
Wow, that sounds pretty sophisticated to me. Maybe someday, Jack will give that software a try :)
@@UncleDoug
Well it's free from Analog Devices
www.analog.com/en/design-center/design-tools-and-calculators/ltspice-simulator.html
... although Jack will probably use it for Op Amp n Solid State stuff
:-)
Very good information. Thank you
Glad it was helpful, Adriano.
Excellent series, Uncle Doug! Thanks very much for sharing all of your knowledge. I've been looking for something special to do with all of the spare amp parts I've accumulated over the years and I think I've found it! The tremolo in Part 8 is unbelievable! I'd like to try it with a 4xEL84 output section left over from a previous build. I'll keep you posted. I'd also like to experiment with the second half of V1 to work by 'jumpering' pins 1-6, 2-7, and 3-8 similar to the AT7 in V3. I'm curious how that additional gain would affect the V1 tremolo.
+Bryan Ellis Thanks, Bryan. Glad you enjoyed the video series. The four output tube modification sounds interesting. I tried running the two triodes of the 12AX7 in parallel and got a small increase in gain, but a noticeable decrease in tone quality. Perhaps you can experiment and come up with a way to make it work. Best of luck.
It's funny how less is more when it comes to great tone. We are reminded of it regularly. Thanks for your reply.
You're welcome, Bryan. I guess the venerable old Fender Champ is a good example of the benefits of simplicity.....no frills at all, just great tone (in the right hands).
I had no idea I loved tube amps until I started watching your videos! I've just been getting into building my own electronics and, honest to goodness, watching the videos you make is getting me pretty excited about the whole concept.
That being said, not sure I'm quite ready to build a full amp. If I could make a request: Could you maybe make a small headphone amplifier, just something really simple that I (and probably several other novices) could try and reproduce as a first step towards building a full guitar amp?
If I could make a secondary request...it'd be nice if the parts list could come in under $50, I only have so much to throw at this new found hobby of mine...
Rusty and I stick strictly with tube guitar amps, Jay, but we have posted a video series on how to build a Fender Champ from scrap parts (i.e. found at garage sales, junk stores, etc.) that may be helpful. With some luck it may end up in your price range, but considering the current cost of tubes and speakers, it will probably end up higher. You could try the Internet for ideas on small headphone amps.
Hmmm, well, maybe if I just keep watching these things I can figure out a basic schematic on my own ^_^. I'll give the Champ series a look after I get through this one (heck, maybe I'll be ridiculous and modify a champ to do stereo and output to a 1/4" stereo). If it's over $50 well...just means I have to save a bit longer, that's fine :).
Thanks a bunch for doing these videos! It's really helping bring everything I've learned over the last couple months into focus.
You're welcome, Jay. Modifying any guitar amp to become stereo would probably not be practical or feasible.....but don't let that stop you :)
Uncle Doug Huh, why is that? (If you have a link to something that explains it, I'd be just as happy to read up on it. I don't want to turn this into a game of 20 questions or anything...)
I would assume though, at very least, that there are a lot of similarities between tube guitar amps and tube headphone amps, right? The big different being how much power is involved and the whole stereo v. mono thing?
A stereo amp is basically two separate amps that may or may not share a power supply. To convert an existing tube monaural guitar amp into a stereo amp, you would have to double the circuit, completely redesign the power supply, and find a cabinet that could hold it all. Then, since the vast majority of guitar outputs are not in stereo, your efforts would be wasted.
Love the jack as you call him, Master Doug. A fishing pole with felines i use. puspus love. Your next lesson i await...
+R HEIDEMAN Thanks, RH. We have a fishing-pole-like device with a stuffed mouse in the "bait" position, and he loves it. We wear him out playing with it at night so he'll sleep.....just like a baby.
Awesome
just got around to this part. I find schematics always interesting. Very simple Class A circuit. As sa230e comments,
putting an intensity pot in the cathode circuit may cause some issues depending on where the pot is in relation to ground,]as
it acts as just a variable resistor and you turn it to minimum, the cathode will be grounded.
Fender used a isolation neon/light dependent resistor (LDR) taken from the plate of the LFO phase shifting oscillator via the neon coupled LDR , into the wiper of a 50K pot and into the grid i/p signal of one half of the phasesplitter/driver.
splitter.
The 12AT7 (low mu) as a reverb tank driver is a good idea.
+SuperCarver2011 Thanks, SC. The Intensity Control placement has been altered for the reasons you stated. Here is a schematic of the circuit in its current state of evolution: www.tommyfoley.com/theuncledougtremoloreverb.jpg
I don't know if your drawings are only to illustrate the concept or if those are the actual circuits you plan to use but I noticed the tremolo intensity control will also affect the bias of the first 12AX7. If you dial it down to zero it will ground the cathode of the first stage, bias the triode very hot and probably cause a lot of distortion. I would put the intensity pot at the grid of the tremolo cathode follower.
I have the same concern, and was thinking he needs 2k to 3k resistor on pin 3 of the intensity pot to prevent grounding the cathode of V1.
+sa230e Excellent observations.....I see your point(s) and appreciate your input. The diagram was something I whipped up quickly to help viewers visualize how an Intensity control could work, but it does appear to alter the bias and enable grounding the V1 cathode. I think I'll follow your suggestion and move the pot connection to the grid. Thanks again.
+Uncle Doug Cool! It's fun to collaborate on this stuff. I'm thinking making that 220k resistor variable would be the easiest and most effective way to implement the intensity control.
Best of luck on your build.
I agree. Several minds can produce a far better product than a single mind can :) Your suggestion would probably be the simplest approach. Are you thinking a 250KA pot, wired as a variable resistor (wiper and one side) ?
Exactly so, and the other problem is that the final 12AX7 section in the tremolo oscillator shares the 100R cathode resistor and bypass of the input 12AX7. It is not going to like having a 1M cathode resistor. It will probably over-bias itself into complete cutoff. NB Doug this section is a cathode follower, it doesn't provide any gain, only a low output impedance, which again you would mess up with the 1M pot. The suggestion to put it at the grid is a good one. Note also that as the tremolo oscillator only outputs subsonics, it doesn't really need a shield.
The proposed circuit at 03:50 connecting the cathode of V4 through a pot to cathode of V1 would alter the cathode bias. When then pot is turned toward ground it would jumper the resister and bypass cap at v1 cathode. Otherwise I get what you want to achieve. Very nice build by the way.
Thanks, Daniel. That was previously discussed and corrected in the schematic.
@@UncleDoug Sorry, I must have missed that. I'll have to check it out again. I did watch the whole series and the end product is extraordinary! You are amazing at cabinetry as well as tube electronics. Any further issues regarding CAThodes, ask Jack, he is the expert.
I often post my plans for projects in a video and then let knowledgeable viewers (like you) chime in with helpful suggestions in the Comments section, Daniel. That's what happened in this case and the schematic was altered as a result. Thanks for your very nice comments, both from me......and from Jack :)
Every time I rewatch your video's something I can't wrap my adled brain around becomes clearer!! This time??? How to low power high power an amp. My fantasy amp is a super reverb that runs 2 6v6's or 6l6's that can emulate all the black face amps in the 22 to 35 watt range by having various hand built speaker cabs! But the wife says no way!
Your plan is not all that bad, Russell. Give it a try. Tell your wife it's either amp experimentation or booze, gambling, and prostitutes. She'll change her tune ;)
Losing the Treble input circuitry might be a backward step. Would not an alternative be to have a couple of switches in the input circuit so that both the hi Z and lo Z can be switched as required through a bass cut (I presume as its not really a treble boost !!?) filter. I am a fan of as many inputs as possible though, having one Telecaster through the normal input and one thru a bass cut option would give an interesting mix signal for a pair of guitarists running harmonies or unison playing. Though of course you can argue as it is in the input stage it is merely replicating what the tone controls are doing on your guitar anyway. like all things it is do you keep the amplification simple, and run the effects as separate items outwith of the unit or move one or more effect and tone into the amplifier circuit at pre-pre amp, pre-amp or pre-output valve stages.
Thanks for your thoughtful input, HP.
Hello, thank you for all the great videos. I am wondering about your tremolo intensity circuit however, I'm not sure it will work the way you envision. If you attach C the cathode of V1a to the wiper of the pot, by turning it down you will be grounding the cathode of V1a eliminating the bias resister and cap from the circuit and changing the gain and frequency response of your input stage. You might be able to do it if you insert a coupling cap between the the pot and V1a but you would also need to add in a bias resister to the tremolo tube since it currently is sharing V1a's bias. If that doesn't work you would have to probably add another stage and inject the tremolo signal down stream somewhere. I noticed there is half of a 12ax7 that is not being used. I would take a look at a Fender Twin tremolo circuit to see how its intensity is done.
Thanks again for all the great content!
+Nick Clarity Thanks, Nick. The Tremolo Intensity problem has already been detected and corrected. I posted a note to this effect in the video. The pot will be attached to the grid of the second tremolo circuit tube, exactly like the volume control above it in the schematic. Also, I will convert the half-utilized 12AX7 into a fully-utilized 12AT7 to drive the reverb circuit.
+Uncle Doug sounds good to me. That's what happens when I don't pay attention.
I really appreciate your input and help, Nick. Always feel free to advise me whenever you see anything questionable. I'm always anxious to benefit from the knowledge of viewers. Thanks.
It would be great to have independent treble and bass tone controls, thank you for the videos
You're welcome, Joch. You can easily tailor the circuit to suit your needs.
thanks doug, well im gona do the drive circit of a marshall drop the trem and do the reverb and trem valves to be overdrive. cheers doug. i got a zenith 30watt selmer amp combo with a good trem on it. like the 6l6 6v6 config.
+freak55beat You're welcome, Jon. Thanks for watching. Best of luck with your projects.
It was apparent just how entrenched both Jack and Rusty were in their traditionalist leanings at the outset. Something tells me they could be won over to a more flexible outlook.
They made the difficult transition from rigid fundamentalists to open-minded visionaries......not an easy one to make.
Hey Uncle Doug, What if I wanted to add a tone stack in replace of the tone knob. Something like a Treble and Bass control with a fixed Middle section?
Most amps I've seen have only one or two tone controls, Joseph. Use Google to find a schematic of an amp you like that uses the two controls and replicate the tone circuit.
Uncle Doug ok one last question is where do I start the circuit, do I get rid of the 500pF cap, the .005 uF cap, 470K res, and the 47K res? Thanks for your help. These videos are awesome!
Without a schematic and personal experience with this modification, I can't speculate, Joseph. I suggest that you experiment by removing and altering component values and see if you can't come up with a suitable configuration. Best of luck.
Thanks. Will you be explaining how to connect the tremolo circuit to the grid of your output tube? I'm building a parallel 6v6 amp with 6sl7 preamp. I want to steal the 6sl7 trem circuit from a reverbarocket 2, but not sure how to incorporate it properly. Hope your build will help clarify that for me. Keep up the good work!
+ej222 You're welcome, EJ. As I currently envision it, it will simply be a pot (1 Meg ?) in series between the right end of the 2200 ohm resistor beside V4 (second Trem tube) and ground, with the wiper connected to the tube's grid. This mimics the circuit's Volume Control (directly above, near top).
Awesome cat
Thanks, Robert :)
The cat a brilliant cat......................he/she has a mind of his/her own.
Yes, he does :)
I have three Gibbs 17" reverb tanks and they have 160 ohm transformers / inductors / coils (what is the correct term?) on them and thats a difficult load to drive so I was wondering if I could use a parallel ECC83 as a cathode follower to do such a thing? Obviously I'd have to put almost a RIAA filter on the input else as reverb tanks apparently don't like bass much - see the 0.0005uF decoupling cap on the reverb input above!
As ever, addicted to the channel, tempted to send you a 1080p camera though! :D
Thanks, Prince. I have a 1080P camera but the videos take too long to process at that resolution. Instead, I am uploading at 720P. Re the reverb tanks, the proper term is "transducer"......they turn electrical signals into physical motion (torsion of the springs) and vice-versa. Think of the tank as a speaker. If the input transducer has an impedance of 160 Ohms, then you need a tank-driving (output) transformer with a winding ratio that matches the driving tube's plate load to the tank's input impedance. This is why most reverb tanks in tube circuits have an 8 Ohm input impedance......driver transformers are easy to find.
@@UncleDoug - Transducer, of course! It was 2am when i wrote that. Also being thick; I'm measuring the tank with an ohm meter which is nothing to do with impedance and anyhow, if the 8 ohm output transformer see's 160 ohms it won't care.
BTW, you left your full name on the Fender reverb document, I found your FaceBook page, now I know what you look like! :o)
I hope that the grim reality didn't shatter your mental image, Prince. I am much better looking in person.......I swear ;)
Hi there, I m in the middle of building a CNC controller, and my plan is when Ive finished that, is to build a valve amp. Looks like Ive found your videos just in time. I might copy your design if I may. I would however, like to build an elaborate enclosure for it though, and maybe build it as a stand alone head with a separate cab. Im not sure yet. Thank you for the inspiration and education. Kev UK.
+kev keelan You're welcome, Kev. I will be building a vintage-style combo cabinet for this circuit, but a head version would make good sense, so you could avail yourself of an array of large, multiple speakers. I will incorporate a 4 and 8 ohm speaker output jack on the chassis, so that the cabinet speaker can be disconnected and a speaker cab can be used.....the best of both worlds :)
Sounds good, Ill look forward to seeing and hearing your finished project. Tubes in my opinion give a warmer richer sound than that of digital and makes for an interesting project. Best wishes.
Thanks, Kev. I agree with your assessment of tube vs transistor.....it's what makes us the ampoholics we are :)
Hey Uncle Dough, thanks for the video, looking forward to see the result,
I'm wondering though, what do the resistors on the jack-inputs do to your sound? any particular reasons to pick a higher impendance over a lower one? (or is this just to balance out high output pickups vs low output ones?)
+Sander van der Zandt You're welcome, Sander. The higher value resistors really don't affect the incoming signal much in series because the signal is at a very low current level, but if you look at the schematic, these input resistors also provide a pathway to ground through the self-grounding input jacks. Lower values will allow too much signal to leak to ground and you will lose volume and high frequency.
+Uncle Doug any particular reason to use these self grounding jacks?
Yes, when there is no instrument cable plugged into the jack, it automatically self-grounds to prevent any noise or RF interference. They are commonly used on just about all amps.
Hi Uncle Doug, you used a Vintage Jensen Ceramic C12Q 35W speaker. What other speakers do you reccomand? I obviously try to put in a good speaker that match this cabinet and circuit. What do you think about Eminence speakers like these 3: Texas Heat, Wizard and CV75?
Choosing speakers for someone is like choosing a wife for them. It's so personal and subjective. You need to do research on each speaker. The Wizard is 8 Ohm 75W but not recommended for open-backed cabinets. The CV75 is 16 Ohm, which would require a different OPT. The Texas Heat is 8 Ohm, OK with open-backed cabinet, but 150W (a bit excessive, but no harm). Thus, from your suggested speakers, the TH would be the best choice.
Uncle Doug thx again for time effort and your input about my suggested speakers. Thx a lot. I agree its a relative thing so not absolute. I decided to put in at least 3 speakers so i have some reference.
Good luck, Stefan.
Uncle Doug...I follow all your changes....except the output Tubes....Since you are beefing up the output Transformer and going to a 12" speaker...What's the advantage of having the option of running the original 6V6 tubes when you have designed it for the beefy 6L6 ....is there some kind of "sonic" advantage?? Or you just want the option to swap out for some reason like .... a/b testing.??? Just asking.....just curious...B.
+William Earney I'm curious why there are so many SE amps with 6V6's and very, very few with 6L6's. The 6L6 should offer much more power while (hopefully) retaining the SE tone quality.....yet you almost never see it used in this manner. I would like the flexibility to be able to switch the output tubes and compare the sound quality of each. I may even try a 6F6 or some other uncommon tube.
+Uncle Doug Got it.... love to hear your final analysis....even if it's a year down the road...after you've lived with your final selection and tinkered. a bit.......Thanks...
You're welcome, Bill.
Uncle Doug. I play thru silverface Twins ect. /w push/pull master vols I disconnect reverb tank and put 220k 1/2 watt resistor across the the hots on the reverb in/outs thus making the reverb pot distortion thus the ( ice cube mod ) with a 4x12 wired parallel it has a compressed heavy sound. Not quite your favorite type of sound. My question is , can that reverb circuit be used in something like what you are building to drive more gain like on the twins? My research shows you using a older reverb design.. thanks
IMHO the reverb circuit is intended purely to drive a reverb tank and recover the signal from it. I cannot see any way to utilize it to increase gain for the regular music signal. I can understand why it would be tempting to use those extra parts for another purpose, but cannot see any way to do it. Sorry.
It was a passing thought when you added the twin reverb circuit to your build. for the house I use a silvertone 1457 and a peavey Bravo, I like the dry and compressed mix of the 6v6 and el 84, I use mkii marshall and twin on stage . I am a true Fan of yours and the Pets thanks for the Reply Uncle Doug.
You're welcome, GTO. Rusty and I really appreciate the nice comments.
Not sure if you cover this in another video, but can you explain speaker wattage and impedance and how that relates to amp wattage. I am going to ask another question but before I do, I am trying to understand a bit on how you can build an amp with similar tonal qualities but at a reduced wattage...so with that in mind my next question. Besides picking the amp (pre -existing) of which you want to model after, then is it the tubes you decide on next or the speaker, I saw in another video you talked about knowing the speaker impedance, so you could ge the correct output transformer , than match the selected output transformer to the tubes that will work with it (OT).
Speaker wattage and impedance are covered in several videos. You must be sure the the speaker wattage is adequate to handle the output power of the amp, otherwise the speaker may overheat and be damaged. I would think that any fundamental change in a circuit, i.e. reduction of output power, would alter the tone. If you are modeling another amp, you simply use the same or very similar components.
I'm pretty new to this sort of thing. I used to work with a guy who knew all about this kind of stuff. He built/rebuilt all sorts of gear. (There's actually 2 poorly made videos of a reel to reel tape deck we rebuilt on my channel). But I was mostly just soldering things and grabbing tools for him. Recently, I rescued some old HV power supplies from the garbage. I thought I could maybe take all the components out and use them to start some sort of project. I think I want to build a bass amp, but I need to learn more about the process. Sadly, my friend who knew all this stuff passed away a few months ago. But these videos are already helping, and I'm only on part 2! Is it feasible to backwards engineer a power supply into an amplifier? Is it more trouble than it's worth? Am I better off just finding a schematic I want to try and start from scratch?
+Shane McGilloway Greetings, Shane. For a first build you would be far better off to pick a fairly simple amp, like a Fender Champ, download a schematic, and start from scratch. Good luck with your project.
It should be real beast (in a good way)! Jack is much bigger than his first YT appearance, but he fetches the way I play guitar.....going the wrong way. :))
+bullthrush He's a Jimi Hendrix fan, so I guess that explains it :) Yes, I hope it emits something other than just smoke when I'm finished.....but either way, it's more fun than watching re-runs of The View.
+carrierwave I would rather have a battery acid enema than watch it......so I guess we're on the same page, CW.
Uncle doug-- what does the second cap off of the the first plate-do?why is there 2-- is it for coupling-thanks Markus
Could you provide a time at which the capacitor is mentioned or shown on a schematic ?
@@UncleDoug yes--- its on the uncle doug tremoverb off of v1(12ax7) there is a .015uf and then a .005uf-- i think the .015 is a coupling and the
.005uf is a tone stack?-i might have answered my own question thanks for reply-
Uncle Doug, maybe you can shed some light on a troubleshooting issue I've recently run into. I fired up my '66 Twin Reverb for the first time in months. The tremolo roach is working because I can hear a ticking, but the tremolo effect is barely noticeable. However, the interesting thing is that when I turn my intensity knob down there is a corresponding volume increase in the amp. When the tremolo knob is turned all the way off there is quite an increase in amp volume. What do you make of this? I've never experienced a relationship like this with the intensity pot and the amps volume. It acts like the intensity pot is really draining some serious volume from the amp, but doing very little in terms of it's designed tremolo effect.
+rbauer1632 I would wonder about the status of the photo-resistor in your opto-isolator bundle. If you look at the schematic, the intensity control regulates how much rhythmic grounding the photo-resistor can apply to the signal entering the LTP Phase Inverter. If the resistance of the photo-resistor were significantly lowered, then the intensity control would behave like a volume control, grounding the signal (especially when the intensity was set high) before it could get to the PI. The ticking could simply be caused by the high voltage fluctuation in the neon bulb circuit. Check the components in and around the "bug".
Hello Uncle Doug,
First of all, many thanks for all your videos, have been watching them non-stop for a week. They're so great and I'm learning so much!
Regarding modifications. Would you ever replace/upgrade a tube-rectifier with a solid-state rectifier? Or if this is generally a bad idea, could you enlighten us?
+Vincent Herbst Greetings, Vincent, and welcome aboard The Rusty Express :) I am a purist when it comes to tube amps and would never convert from tube rectifier to solid-state (diodes), but I do see the advantages to SS rectification: cheaper, simpler, more efficient, higher voltages, less sag, etc.....but there is a certain, undeniable charm (and tone effect) in old-fashioned, inefficient tube rectification.
+Uncle Doug Thanks for the tought.
+Vincent Herbst You're welcome, Vincent :)
good afternoon Uncle Doug, if I only have a 250k Ω potentiometer but I need a 100kΩ potentiometer for the reverb circuit on the Tremo-verb can a 150kΩ resistor be added from the proper lug, (for lack of a better term) not the wiper, to ground, to make the pot resistance to 100k ?
No. You would be better off if the resistor bridged the two outer lugs, in parallel with the pot resistance, thus lowering it. You have to use the proper formula to determine total net resistance.....it's not as easy as simple subtraction.
@@UncleDoug ok I thought it would be a simple thang.
what should be the highest watt rating for the potentiometers you use in your amp? and also all pots are logarithmic correct?
@@irusman62 I simply use the pots that are sold by AES in Tempe. Tone and volume pots are log, while some other pots, like tremolo speed, may be linear.
@@UncleDoug thanks Unc I’ve been scouring the internet to try and figure it out, I found a forum that has many schematics for many brands of amps and been going through them seeing if the types of pots are listed . Still have not found out one for the reverb intensity, I’ll have a look at AES . I’m trying to purchase from a Canadian supplier as shipping , brokerage fees and tax and duty plus the exchange rate double the USD prices. But your continued help is very appreciated.
im seeing 1/2w in some of the schematics, ill have to dig deeper
have you tried the plastic springs for cats? my black cat(Echo) loves them.
No, but I'll check them out. Jack needs some new toys.
Love this series Uncle Doug. It is inspiring me to add a tremolo and reverb circuit to a 5E3 build project I have been planning. I reviewed all the comments - but didn't see this question: Regarding adapting the circuit to accommodate both the 6L6 and 6V6 output tubes. Do both tubes have the same Plate Impedance characteristics - such that a single output transformer will reflect to the same speaker impedance (i.e. 8 Ohms) with out any circuit mods ?? Thanks again for all of the inspiration !!! -- Don
+Donald Filbert Thanks, Don. Glad the series is helpful. Yes, they both have the same load resistance and therefore the tube socket can be connected to the output transformer and will work regardless of which output tube is plugged in. This was essential for the swapping concept to work.
You are awesome
Hi Uncle Doug, I'm currently building a single ended amp, very similar to your plans here ( I downloaded the schematics). One question please: I have 4 22uF 450V caps available. Do you think I should put all 4 like you did here, and split the resistor of 10K in half? What is the advantage compared to using 3 caps?
PS, my schematics is based on a champ which calls for a 10K resistor in between 1st and 2nd cap.. I hope that makes sense..
It would help if you provided a schematic, Ivan. I have no idea which Champ circuit you are referring to. My suggestion would be to duplicate the schematic. Use the same cap and resistor values that they suggest.
Thank you for your response @@UncleDoug. It's the 5F1 circuit which has 3 filter caps. I modified the 5F1 schematic so I use 3 x 22uF caps (5F1 calls for 16uF-8uF-8uF). I also have one more additional 22uF cap that I could add, so I was wondering - what is the advantage of adding one more additional filter cap? Will this reduce the hum or something? I'm sorry if it's trivial question, I just started with electronics 4 months ago, and couldn't find proper answer on the internet.
I think you may be overdoing it with the filter caps, Ivan. You have doubled the capacitance and are considering adding more. All the circuit needed was 16/8/8uf. The added capacitance will stress your rectifier tube on startup and probably provide no noticeable reduction in hum. It's best to stick with traditional values.
I think you were right when you asked for the schematics, but I feared that I'm going to bother you too much with this, which I did anyway. I hope you don't mind, and I appreciate your help. Could you please check the schematics here: tinyurl.com/y777zo2q, and help me determine if the setup is okay? Thanks..
Do you think these or similar modifications could be used with a Champ 5F1?
Yes, definitely.
Hello Doug, I am looking fwd to the next instalment. One question I have in general about vintage tube amps. Why do you think most were manufactured with the tubes facing down. As heat rises I would have thought better heat dissipation from the hottest part of the amp, i.e. the tubes would have been achieved if the tubes were upright. This would also reduce residual heat passing into the chassis via convection.Thus reducing additional heat throughout the other electrical componentry. Space and overall height of the cabinet could be the reason however this does not make too much sense given the heat problem of all tube amps. Do you have any theories? Are you likely to follow an upside down plan?
+allanpennington I completely agree that the best orientation for tubes is upright with their bases down. Upside-down tubes do tend to absorb more of their own heat and to heat the chassis above them. Early amps were almost all configured this way. However, to make the controls convenient for the user (i.e. at the top of the amp), many manufacturers (i.e. Fender) started putting the chassis in the ceiling of the cabinet with the tubes hanging downward. Another option, but more expensive to build, is to put the control panel at the top of the cabinet and the chassis on the floor, with an umbilical cord of (mostly shielded) wires to connect them......like the Kay amp in my recent video series. I am going to hang the Supro tubes upside-down, as they were originally.
Doug, just following through with my enquiry about YOUR amps? . . . do you have a site or page etc? . . thanks again
I have a FB page: Uncle Doug's Vintage Amps. All business inquiries should be addressed to me there.
The best.
+MrMac5150 Thanks :)
Uncle Doug
I did not know kitty cats can play catch.
This will sound like a real "come-on" but under normal circumstances, Jack will retrieve the paper toy quite a few times.....bringing it right back to me each time. Naturally, for the video he did everything wrong, but I thought it was funnier that way.
Uncle Doug
I have never seen a cat respond like yours.
Cheers.
Thanks, Mr.M. He is definitely a gifted retriever....when the camera isn't running :)
Great Video Uncle Doug. I'm on the verge of building a Fender Champ clone.
I'm interested in that mod that you're going to make re: the AB switch for a 6L6 or 6V6 for the output tube. Is it possible to do that with the "Champ" circuit"? Meaning...is it as simple as having a variable bias resistor switch and of course upgrade the output transformer to support the increased current draw from the 6L6?
Great videos!
Thanks,
Joe
Greetings, Joe. Yes, if you provide a switchable bias resistance that suits both output tubes, you can interchange a 6V6 and 6L6. There are two other requirements, however. 1.) The output transformer must be able to handle the higher output power of the 6L6. 2.) The power (not output) transformer must be able to handle the higher current demands of the 6L6. Bear in mind, also, that due to the difference in load resistance between the two tubes, the primary impedance of a single output transformer cannot exactly match both tubes, but the result is generally quite acceptable.
hello there Uncle Doug, would you happen to know what changes were made from the tremoverb oct to nov schematic? I know its been awhile, I’ll continue trying to find the change or changes. I used the oct ver to do my parts take off :^|
the only change I found was the text for the tube designation on the bias switch, they were in reverse , so just a text placement error that was fixed.
but I could have swore there was a parts sheet, probably was a different video/project
@@irusman62 I thought there was a parts list also, Russell. As far as the schematic changes, you can compare the two diagrams as well as I can. Good luck with your project.
@@UncleDoug yes I did that found only change was the bias switch text was in reversed .
I think the parts list was for the mystery app build , once I get my list completed I will send it to you on the face book page
@@irusman62 Thanks, Russell.
What about a 6EZ8 (1.5 12AT7) for the Reverb Circuit rather than a 12AT7? Uncle Doug, you've inspired me to construct a JCM800 model with a tremo-verb in the circuit. I came across the suggestion of a 6EZ8, but I'm asking you if it is feasible, more effective, or just to far out of the scope of the design. What do you think, Uncle Doug?
By the way, thank you for your pedagogy, I am new to designing circuits like this, and am giving you full credit with this multiple Part deep dive review and my upcoming completed project. Much appreciation and I hope you are well.
That's good to hear, Erik. I am not familiar with the 6EZ8 tube, so I really can't offer any wise predictions about its use in your circuit project. Good luck.
super good series, are you gonna explain how to make a hifi stereo amp at some time?
+marcus ravn Thanks, Marcus. No, I only work with vintage guitar amps and circuits. I guess I'll have to leave the Hi-Fi to others who know a lot more about it than I do. There are a whole bunch of them on RUclips and the Internet.
thats cool, i just like the way you explain everything :) keep up the great work :)
We will, Marcus. Thanks for watching :)
Uncle Doug, do you have any books you could recommend on the subject of vacuum tube amplifiers?
Gerald Weber has written several books on the subject, which are generally available on Amazon.com.
Uncle Doug thanks a bunch for the quick reply. I'll have a look.
You're welcome. Good luck.
LOL! "Rare, Vintage" - the battle cry of Ebay! :-D
Amen, Dave. The problem with rarity and age is that they don't automatically equate to "valuable". I have some really unusual old shirts in my closet.....but no one seems very interested in buying they from me :)
Hallo, I really enjoy your videos and I am learning a lot. I plan to read myself into amp schematics for some time, before I have the convidence to build my own amp. Is it right that the 2nd half of the input 12ax7 is unused in this amp? Best wishes from Germany!
@@UncleDoug I've been meaning to ask about this specific topic. I've been researching how I could utilize the second half as an additional gain stage. Would you mind sharing what you tried? I own a Vox AC4c1-BL and it utilizes 1/2 of one of it's two 12AX7s as a gain stage at the front end of the amp. I have to say the gain stage adds some pretty tasty grit up to about 8, before it starts sounding kind of cheesey.
Hi Uncle Doug, where is your favorite source for amp schematics, say a JCM 800. I've seen so many floating around out there, most not the same. Any suggestions?
I simply do Google searches for specific schematics and then pick the one that best matches the circuit I am working on, Reid. I have not found one site that offers all the best schematics, thus I prefer to "shop around".
Thanks Uncle Doug. Keep up the good work, we do appreciate what you and Rusty do.
You're welcome, Reid.
el34world.com/charts/TubeAmpSchematics.htm
Thanks I'm not as familiar with them as you but I'll keep trying
The best way to gain experience is to carefully experiment with a circuit. You also need to build and use a current limiter (see my video on how to build one) to prevent damage to the circuit during this process. Good luck.