Just FYI, you should always replace seals when maintaining your bearing anyway. This is just a tip for removing the seal I learned YEARS ago when I was an auto mechanic: after removing the nut and outer bearing, put the nut back on. Then slide the hub off so the inner bearing hits the nut (with a little force), the inner bearing and seal will be left on the spindle along with the nut.
Weather you have Dexter ez lube or non ezlube the fact remains if the bearing are wet/ greased up you never if ever have problems, it’s a dry/non lubricated bearing or anything dry that causes the problem. I have had both types of axles and for non ez lube axles I would just pull the hub and literally use a spoon and pack new grease in both sides over bearings and reassemble. I have never had a lubricated bearing fail on a trailer, motorcycle, or car. Now brake inspection is recommended and you can pack the bearings during that inspection but so many videos act like you gotta check a grease bearing at every stop or 5 times a year. This year I and changing all my hubs to vortex 6 year 100k hubs and use marine blue grease in both trailers because I got fun to have instead of messing around with grease hubs.
Thanks Mike, I don’t want to be the guy on the side of the road and I hope this video helps others keep their bearings maintained as well so they can enjoy their trip. -Steve
I love your video! Very thorough. Call me paranoid, but I take along an extra set of wheel bearings when I travel in my RV. I'd hate to be stuck on the side of the road with a burnt wheel bearing and hoping someone will have the one that fits my RV. They don't cost much and having an extra set in case you blow one out on the road can save you a big headache. If you email Dexter Axle with the serial number of your axle, they will send you an axle configuration for your particular axle. This was the way I found out exactly what wheel bearings my axle has. A lot of people don't realize that when you travel with one of these rigs, they are more vulnerable to having a breakdown than your tow vehicle. I even carry extra leaf springs, bolts, shackles, and an equalizer. Like I said, call me paranoid, but I'm not going to be stuck on the side of the interstate for 8 or 9 hours waiting on a tow truck to fix something that can be accomplished in an hour or two. Even if you don't have the knowledge, tools or physically unable, just having parts can save your butt. Somebody could fix it that came along or at least any repair place could.
I've been carrying a set of brgs/seats/seals since we bought the trailer. Also grease, 2 cans of brake cleaner, and a brass punch for replacing races. I also got my parts by using axle s/n to obtain the axle build sheet.
@@jimcollins8097 I carry spare parts with all the tools as well. I have the punch, seal puller and a bearing driver set. Always better to be prepared. -Steve
@@RadarRoadWarriors It's sad that we all have to carry enough parts with us to rebuild an entire suspension system when we travel with our RV's. I carry 3 jacks also, plus since I have a tandem trailer, I carry 2 spare tires.
@@jimcollins8097 It's sad all the spare parts that we must carry in order to have fun in these RV's. I even take two spare tires for the trailer, since I have a tandem axle. I figure if I get a blowout on one tire, it might take the other tire too.
Yall are an awesome couple. I cud watch you all day. I'll bet yall hav a fun time traveling together. Nice to see such a sweet couple working together. When she said to take some anti inflammatories I got a real sense of her personality. Good video happy trail you 2
If you are changing the bearings you could do that. If you are just changing the seal and reusing the bearings, you would not want to use the bearing to drive out the seal because you could damage the bearing. -Steve
@@RadarRoadWarriors Not if your drift is softer than the bearing. And you use some uncommon sense when driving them out. Been packing bearings this way for over 40 years with no problems yet. And the seal is reusable if nessacary, most of the time. This is the way my instructor at tech school showed us back in the 70's and it still works just fine today.
Just the way I would do it. I read where you upgraded to a seal puller. That National seal is the only way to go. Oreilley's is where I got mine. They cross ref the number. Got job.
Thanks Jack, we’ve really been enjoying teaching other RVers how to maintain their RV so they can enjoy it instead of waiting for it to be fixed. -Steve
I really like your use of the camera for seal inspection… completely gives piece of mind for those of us using the EZ-Lube on occasion. My question is, how/where are you accessing the seal with your camera? I can’t find an opening large enough to insert the camera.
Jim, There is a round hole just big enough to put the scope through. It’s to the front or back depending on the side. I have came across some setups where the hole is blocked by a suspension component but I’ve always seen one on the brake backer plate. -Steve
Hmmm, ok. I've always checked my torque at the start of a new trip, then lift the wheel and both listen and feel while spinning it. Also try to jostle it side to side to check for play. I never added any grease yet. It's only been 3 years, but sounds like its definitely time to do that. I didn't know it was believed necessary once per year. Yikes!
Lorraine, Sounds like it was a good video for you to come across so you can get the overdue maintenance taken care of before it becomes a problem. Our fifth wheel also weighs just under 15,000 lbs. -Steve
Yes, thanks Steve, very glad I watched your video. Very glad you made the video, thanks! Learning that way is vastly better than finding out by a wheel bearing failure on the freeway. Thanks again!
@@lorrainehoffman1307 you’re welcome. We make the videos to help other RVers and love to hear when someone found a video that helped them or solved a problem so they can get back to enjoying their trip.
Dan, The EZ lube is not a replacement for inspecting and repacking the bearings. It’s good for adding a grease after a bearing service or in an emergency. Although when done by the book in the Dexter manual, I haven’t had issues with any bearings. -Steve
Great video, thank you. So, I get the whole EZ-Lube thing, but I get a lot of peace and satisfaction from re-packing my bearings manually with a bearing packer. Since you had them both out, seems to me you could have re-packed manually, at least for the first step. Also, since EZ-Lube fills the entire cavity between the front and back seal, it seems a little wasteful. I don't think all that grease actually does anything there. I may be too anal on this. :) Also, here's a trick for removing the seal: pull the front bearing off, then put the nut back on the spindle. Now pull the wheel forward until it drops down and the bearing rests against the nut. One or two quick jerks against the nut and - voila - the bearing and seal will be sitting there on the spindle.
Randy, I also like to do a full clean out and manual repack occasionally. Since the bearings were in good shape and fairly new, I used the EZ lube zerk after changing the seals to make sure there was enough grease. I always like to make sure there is plenty of grease for the bearings so even if I do a manual repack, I’ll add some more grease in through the EZ lube zerk. Thanks for the seal removal tip. I’ll try that next time. -Steve
Just for future information, I've emptied 2 tubes of grease and haven't finished my second wheel yet. How many tubes of grease do you usually use each time you do the wheel bearings. I guess that there's a reason that the tubes get sold for 10 for $20.
Hi Don, It usually takes about 3/4 of a tube to do a wheel. You should probably check your wheel seals and make sure they’re not blowing out and you’re doing it properly by rotating it with a manual grease gun. ~ Steve
@@RadarRoadWarriors I was feeling the seals in the back and watching the front. Seals were not blown. Perhaps it was underfilled previously. Thanks, Don
@@donhediger5072 They could’ve been really dry previously. If you put 2 tubes of grease per wheel, that is a lot of grease and they should be well lubricated now. - Steve
Preventative maintenance saves a lot of time and money. Also, don’t let a dealer tell you that you need to replace your wheel bearings every year. Bearing should never wear out as long as they are lubricated.
Thanks for making these videos. I have a Travel Trailer with the Dexter Easy Lube. I have 10,000 mile on the trailer and I have added grease every 2000 miles. I have 2 questions. While greasing one of my wheels , for the first time I checked to see if there was any play in wheels. I notice one wheel had the smallest detectable amount of play when I exerted force. It was as if the nut holding the bearings should have been tightened half turn more. I also noticed one of the wheels would not spin as many times as the others when I was putting grease in. It sounded like a brake giving a small amount of resistance. Would you comment on these 2 things.
Ronald, Your welcome and thanks for watching. Bearings have a break in period and should be re-torqued initially after taking delivery of the RV then every year or 12,000 miles. It sounds like that wheel with extra play wasn’t torqued as much as the others from the axle factory. When re-torquing, you will often put a half turn more on the nut. On the wheel that’s not spinning as free, that sounds like the brake is a little tighter on that wheel. You will normally hear a little brake drag but the wheel should free spin easy. If your axles have self adjusting brakes, they should maintain the proper adjustment. If you have one that is out of adjustment (whether too free or too tight) you can manually adjust the brakes through the backside of the hub. I don’t have a reference off hand, but there should be some videos out there to show how the brake adjusters operate. It’s possible that the wheel not spinning as free just adjusted itself. A good way to check on brakes and hubs is to use a temperature gun to check if anything is getting hot when you stop on travel days. -Steve
I would never advise a person that’s not very mechanical to use a grease gun. Take the bearing out and put grease in your palm and manually push the grease in until you see fresh grease come out. It is safer and there is no question about did i put to much and blow it out the back.
Nothing wrong with that if you check the back of the hub. That's why they design this new way. Doesn't take that long anyway. Spin and pump spin and pump. Took me less then 3 minutes and the old grease comes right out. You would check if the bearings are loose and if there is a smooth motion and check the back to see that the seal is good.
Thanks Mike, that socket is 1-1/2” I know it fits some other axles that are heavy like the 7,000 lb ones I have but I can’t say for sure on the 3,500 lb axles but when I looked it up I also came up with 1-1/2” for 3,500 lb axles. -Steve Socket: amzn.to/3LG9Eo2
This method is NOT a substitute for disassembly, cleaning and inspection, and reoacking of your bearing sets. Without inspection, you have no real idea what's going on in there.
John, Since I have the EZ lube system and just needed to change the seal at the time of this video, I didn’t need to clean out the old grease and inspect the bearings or do a manual repack of the bearings. I used the EZ lube grease zerk to add grease after I put the hub back together. On my annual maintenance, I’ll use the EZ lube system to repack the bearings after an inspection. -Steve
@@erethmw you can search for the National axle/bearing chart to see the overview of all axles. I carry the 2 options National 412920 (bigger axles) amzn.to/3WenqF6 National 473336 (smaller axles) amzn.to/3XQYbKr
Bryan, Yes I do, I’ll put the list below. When changing bearings, you always need to change the race as well. -Steve Inner bearing: amzn.to/3uy6E5E Inner race: amzn.to/3PeTUcc Outer bearing: amzn.to/3bZrxAa Outer race: amzn.to/3RgWzDY
@@bryanprice1142 I’m sorry, I thought you meant the bearings since the seal is listed in the videos description. Here is the seal link: amzn.to/3Pf3888
my only neg comment is that you should ALWAYS replace both sides at the same time, it is cheap insurance to prevent issues later AND you know that BOTH were done so easier to keep track of in maint records cause why keep pulling it apart when once and done.... 🤠
@@meseahunt when we did the maintenance, we changed everything on both axles. We showed how to do it on the video on one wheel. We didn’t go back and repeat the process three more times for the video.
Danny, Yes some grease will work it’s way to the dust cover, however I haven’t had enough grease do that to deplete the bearings of the needed grease. I always take a few finger scoops and put some grease in the hub between the bearings to make sure there is enough. -Steve
Great how to video, I have the easy lube system on my kendon motorcycle trailer that I just picked up used. Just one question the retainer that goes on over the nut, instead of a cotter pin. Do you just snap that on any way you can, or is there a certain way that goes back on over the nut. Thank you
You’ll snap the retainer on anyway that keeps the nut as close to finger tight as possible. I usually have to back the nut off from finger tight a bit to get it to line up.
Ugh, you go through the effort of pulling the wheel and drums off and then you don't properly repack your bearings with a bearing packer or by hand... The grease nipple on dexter axles are not meant to be used as a primary way of repacking your bearings, but rather as a "top up" in between full repacks.
Mike, My bearings weren’t due for a repacking for this video. This video was made to show people how to do a simple grease job with the zerk and how to inspect/change a seal. Those 2 things are missed by a lot of RV owners. -Steve
Threedog, Motorized RVs are built on an automotive frame and can have sealed bearings. I’m not aware of any towable RV with sealed bearings and I’m not sure why they are built with greaseable bearings. -Steve
Close ups would help a lot as well as showing what parts look like when removing or tightening would help. You show some but don't show a close-up of the actual removal of the clip or the nut.
Wow. So much is made about greasing brngs. I have Dexter axles with EZ lube, now the next part of this will send most folks into a bearing rage, so... spoiler alert. Each season, before the first trip I get my hand grease gun, put a tube of Red n Tacky Lucas grease in it, now here it comes... I don't jack up any wheels, I simply pop the hub cap, put gun on zerk, and SLOWLY pump in new grease till I see the older, not bad older, just older grease, come through the outer brng evenly, and that is it. Takes about 12 pumps. Put hub cap back and onto next one till done. That is all it takes. THIS>> At the end of each season I jack each wheel up just off ground, spin the wheel and check hub for play. If no play and wheel spins free I know all is well in there. Study the design of the EZlube axle spindle and how grease flows in. It is a good design, and it works. I put about 3500 to 5k on a season on/at turnpike speeds. Everything is ok in the hubs.. They run cool and no grease seals have ever blown out. Jus' sayin...
I have a 2005 Jayco 33 ft travel trailer. I have owned it since new and have pulled it everywhere around the country. Since then can't even tell you how many miles I have on it to be honest. But I have been doing the same thing you do every year, every year after getting it out of storage I use Lucas the heavy-duty green Grease but either way never had a problem and I've always check the hubs during the trips and they have never gotten even warm. So if you do the math that's sixteen years of dragging this thing around the country with no problems to date. I feel fine doing it this way but by no means if you feel better tearing it apart then that's what you need to do for sure be safe and enjoy it while you can life is too short to sweat the small things.
In this video I’m not packing the bearings by hand. Although you can add a few pumps of grease through the grease zerk after a manual repacking if you’d like but it’s not necessary. You can follow Dexters procedure with the EZ lube grease fitting or a manual repack. -Steve
Since when do you tork the bearing? Don't you turn the castle nut until you have very little play then put your cotter pin in and your done. At least that's my design on a 2021 wildwood. 50 lbs it's not a lug nut. Don't understand your logic unless it's a total different design I don't know about.
That is the spec in the Dexter manual. Once it is set by torque, you loosen the nut, and the finger tightened. It's on page 56: www.dexteraxle.com/LDCSM
Hi Scott, I took of the tire because the second part of the video was showing how to change a blown wheel seal. If I was just greasing the wheel bearing, I would not have to take it apart.
Anthony, When I read the manual (page 52), I interpret that adjusting the bearings means I would retorque the bearings as it states in the bearing adjustment section (page 56). -Steve www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf
@@RadarRoadWarriors Important to note that Dexter doesn’t manufacture the bearings and doesn’t follow the bearing manufactures procedures for installing the bearings or setting the clearance. Follow Timken bearing procedure as in their video on RUclips. The lash (in/out movement of the hub should be 1 to 5 thousands. Or finger tighten the nut snugly, then back it off 1/6 to 1/4 turn and lock it to the closest position but never less than 1/6 to 1/8 of a turn loose. Never torque an old bearing unless the race was removed and reinstalled into the hub. Torquing a new bearing is to make sure the race has fully seated into the hub. After that, re-torquing an old bearing can damage rollers and/or the race. Finger tightening and back off the nut the proper amount and locking it is all that is needed. Believe me after 50 years of towing and maintaining all types of trailers from farm to semi’s, and a mechanic for that long also, I have learned and observed what destroys bearings. That being, improper clearance settings and lack of proper lubrication, but by far the worst error is no clearance. That clearance is what allows the bearing to be lubricated and cooled, just like the clearance needed on rod and main bearings in an engine. Without the clearance, you force metal on metal and force the grease out of the bearing races and rollers surfaces. That results in heat, metal expansion and metal fatigue and then it starts to shed and rip itself apart. Ninety nine percent of the videos on RUclips are wrong. I have only seen two so far that have been correct. You were close, but didn’t exactly follow the Dexter manual, at least in your video as far as a clearer setting of the clearance and retaining nut adjustment. Regards!
That’s correct Norman, if you put the Jack under the axle tube you can bend the axle tube. In this video I talk about lifting the RV by placing the jack under the spring next to the axle tube so I don’t bend the tube. -Steve
NEVER use EZ Lube it has a high chance to blow the seals and place grease all over the brakes. Do proper bearing packing so you can inspect the bearing and race then repack and install new seal
Just FYI, you should always replace seals when maintaining your bearing anyway. This is just a tip for removing the seal I learned YEARS ago when I was an auto mechanic: after removing the nut and outer bearing, put the nut back on. Then slide the hub off so the inner bearing hits the nut (with a little force), the inner bearing and seal will be left on the spindle along with the nut.
Thanks Dan, that’s a great tip and seems like an easy way to remove the seal. -Steve
Hopefully you don't ruin the bearing but a cool approach. But I like the catch and release way myself lol
Weather you have Dexter ez lube or non ezlube the fact remains if the bearing are wet/ greased up you never if ever have problems, it’s a dry/non lubricated bearing or anything dry that causes the problem.
I have had both types of axles and for non ez lube axles I would just pull the hub and literally use a spoon and pack new grease in both sides over bearings and reassemble. I have never had a lubricated bearing fail on a trailer, motorcycle, or car. Now brake inspection is recommended and you can pack the bearings during that inspection but so many videos act like you gotta check a grease bearing at every stop or 5 times a year. This year I and changing all my hubs to vortex 6 year 100k hubs and use marine blue grease in both trailers because I got fun to have instead of messing around with grease hubs.
Very true Frank,
Proper maintenance will keep your RV rolling so you can enjoy the RV trip.
Steve you did your homework. Great video. Probably the best wheel bearing maintenance video out there. Short and to the point.
Thanks Mike, I don’t want to be the guy on the side of the road and I hope this video helps others keep their bearings maintained as well so they can enjoy their trip. -Steve
Fantastic video and much appreciated. I've been putting this off for so long because I didn't know where to start. Truly appreciate you sharing this!
@@williamrichardson6196 you’re welcome.
I love your video! Very thorough. Call me paranoid, but I take along an extra set of wheel bearings when I travel in my RV. I'd hate to be stuck on the side of the road with a burnt wheel bearing and hoping someone will have the one that fits my RV. They don't cost much and having an extra set in case you blow one out on the road can save you a big headache. If you email Dexter Axle with the serial number of your axle, they will send you an axle configuration for your particular axle. This was the way I found out exactly what wheel bearings my axle has. A lot of people don't realize that when you travel with one of these rigs, they are more vulnerable to having a breakdown than your tow vehicle. I even carry extra leaf springs, bolts, shackles, and an equalizer. Like I said, call me paranoid, but I'm not going to be stuck on the side of the interstate for 8 or 9 hours waiting on a tow truck to fix something that can be accomplished in an hour or two. Even if you don't have the knowledge, tools or physically unable, just having parts can save your butt. Somebody could fix it that came along or at least any repair place could.
Gary,
I just ordered a wheel bearing set to keep as a spare. Hopefully I don’t ever need it since I’ll have it. -Steve
I've been carrying a set of brgs/seats/seals since we bought the trailer. Also grease, 2 cans of brake cleaner, and a brass punch for replacing races. I also got my parts by using axle s/n to obtain the axle build sheet.
@@jimcollins8097 I carry spare parts with all the tools as well. I have the punch, seal puller and a bearing driver set. Always better to be prepared. -Steve
@@RadarRoadWarriors It's sad that we all have to carry enough parts with us to rebuild an entire suspension system when we travel with our RV's. I carry 3 jacks also, plus since I have a tandem trailer, I carry 2 spare tires.
@@jimcollins8097 It's sad all the spare parts that we must carry in order to have fun in these RV's. I even take two spare tires for the trailer, since I have a tandem axle. I figure if I get a blowout on one tire, it might take the other tire too.
This has been supper helpful! I just found out I need to do this on my trailer! Fortunately, I am at the beginning of season #2.
You’re welcome Joe
Yall are an awesome couple. I cud watch you all day. I'll bet yall hav a fun time traveling together. Nice to see such a sweet couple working together. When she said to take some anti inflammatories I got a real sense of her personality. Good video happy trail you 2
Thanks for the kind words Debbie. We work together well and love being able to make videos to help others. -Steve
Great video
@@ghostpepperrides4805 thank you
Lots of good info Steve.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video, good camera work, great explanations, and good audio. Thank you!!
You can drive the seal out by putting a flat faced drift to hit the inner bearing towards the seal thus removing the seal.
If you are changing the bearings you could do that. If you are just changing the seal and reusing the bearings, you would not want to use the bearing to drive out the seal because you could damage the bearing.
-Steve
@@RadarRoadWarriors Not if your drift is softer than the bearing. And you use some uncommon sense when driving them out. Been packing bearings this way for over 40 years with no problems yet. And the seal is reusable if nessacary, most of the time. This is the way my instructor at tech school showed us back in the 70's and it still works just fine today.
Yes. I have always drove the seal out by hitting the inner bearing with a 1/2” brass drift.
Thanks for putting this very informative video! We need to do this to our wheel bearing soon. Happy and safe travels! Subbed!
Nice video! You answered the questions I had. Much appreciated..
Trey, I’m glad this video was helpful to you. - Steve
Just the way I would do it. I read where you upgraded to a seal puller. That National seal is the only way to go. Oreilley's is where I got mine. They cross ref the number. Got job.
Most excellent info sir you make it look easy and with the info your putting out all us rvers should keep an eye on stuff. Thank you
Thanks Jack, we’ve really been enjoying teaching other RVers how to maintain their RV so they can enjoy it instead of waiting for it to be fixed. -Steve
Thank you for the extra detailed info!
You’re welcome
Thank you sir much appreciated
You are welcome
I really like your use of the camera for seal inspection… completely gives piece of mind for those of us using the EZ-Lube on occasion.
My question is, how/where are you accessing the seal with your camera? I can’t find an opening large enough to insert the camera.
Jim,
There is a round hole just big enough to put the scope through. It’s to the front or back depending on the side. I have came across some setups where the hole is blocked by a suspension component but I’ve always seen one on the brake backer plate. -Steve
Thanks great one!
Very informative video thanks.
You are welcome Randall
Hmmm, ok. I've always checked my torque at the start of a new trip, then lift the wheel and both listen and feel while spinning it. Also try to jostle it side to side to check for play. I never added any grease yet. It's only been 3 years, but sounds like its definitely time to do that. I didn't know it was believed necessary once per year. Yikes!
PS: Its a Montana High Country, usually just under, or around 15,000 pounds on a CAT scale.
Lorraine,
Sounds like it was a good video for you to come across so you can get the overdue maintenance taken care of before it becomes a problem.
Our fifth wheel also weighs just under 15,000 lbs. -Steve
Yes, thanks Steve, very glad I watched your video. Very glad you made the video, thanks! Learning that way is vastly better than finding out by a wheel bearing failure on the freeway. Thanks again!
@@lorrainehoffman1307 you’re welcome. We make the videos to help other RVers and love to hear when someone found a video that helped them or solved a problem so they can get back to enjoying their trip.
An RV tech told me that EZ lube is for emergency use only and you should clean and re-pack wheel bearings annually.
Dan,
The EZ lube is not a replacement for inspecting and repacking the bearings. It’s good for adding a grease after a bearing service or in an emergency. Although when done by the book in the Dexter manual, I haven’t had issues with any bearings. -Steve
Thanks sir
You are welcome. ~ Steve
Great video, thank you. So, I get the whole EZ-Lube thing, but I get a lot of peace and satisfaction from re-packing my bearings manually with a bearing packer. Since you had them both out, seems to me you could have re-packed manually, at least for the first step. Also, since EZ-Lube fills the entire cavity between the front and back seal, it seems a little wasteful. I don't think all that grease actually does anything there. I may be too anal on this. :) Also, here's a trick for removing the seal: pull the front bearing off, then put the nut back on the spindle. Now pull the wheel forward until it drops down and the bearing rests against the nut. One or two quick jerks against the nut and - voila - the bearing and seal will be sitting there on the spindle.
Randy,
I also like to do a full clean out and manual repack occasionally. Since the bearings were in good shape and fairly new, I used the EZ lube zerk after changing the seals to make sure there was enough grease. I always like to make sure there is plenty of grease for the bearings so even if I do a manual repack, I’ll add some more grease in through the EZ lube zerk.
Thanks for the seal removal tip. I’ll try that next time.
-Steve
Just for future information, I've emptied 2 tubes of grease and haven't finished my second wheel yet. How many tubes of grease do you usually use each time you do the wheel bearings. I guess that there's a reason that the tubes get sold for 10 for $20.
Hi Don,
It usually takes about 3/4 of a tube to do a wheel. You should probably check your wheel seals and make sure they’re not blowing out and you’re doing it properly by rotating it with a manual grease gun. ~ Steve
@@RadarRoadWarriors I was feeling the seals in the back and watching the front. Seals were not blown. Perhaps it was underfilled previously. Thanks, Don
@@donhediger5072
They could’ve been really dry previously. If you put 2 tubes of grease per wheel, that is a lot of grease and they should be well lubricated now. - Steve
I haven't done mine yet, but I purchased 4 tubes for the project. I've read that they are pretty dry from the factory.
Preventative maintenance saves a lot of time and money.
Also, don’t let a dealer tell you that you need to replace your wheel bearings every year.
Bearing should never wear out as long as they are lubricated.
Yes I’ve repacked many bearings and some were very much neglected and it’s rare to need to replace the bearing as long as they’re lubricated.
Thanks for making these videos. I have a Travel Trailer with the Dexter Easy Lube. I have 10,000 mile on the trailer and I have added grease every 2000 miles. I have 2 questions. While greasing one of my wheels , for the first time I checked to see if there was any play in wheels. I notice one wheel had the smallest detectable amount of play when I exerted force. It was as if the nut holding the bearings should have been tightened half turn more. I also noticed one of the wheels would not spin as many times as the others when I was putting grease in. It sounded like a brake giving a small amount of resistance. Would you comment on these 2 things.
Ronald,
Your welcome and thanks for watching.
Bearings have a break in period and should be re-torqued initially after taking delivery of the RV then every year or 12,000 miles. It sounds like that wheel with extra play wasn’t torqued as much as the others from the axle factory. When re-torquing, you will often put a half turn more on the nut.
On the wheel that’s not spinning as free, that sounds like the brake is a little tighter on that wheel. You will normally hear a little brake drag but the wheel should free spin easy. If your axles have self adjusting brakes, they should maintain the proper adjustment. If you have one that is out of adjustment (whether too free or too tight) you can manually adjust the brakes through the backside of the hub. I don’t have a reference off hand, but there should be some videos out there to show how the brake adjusters operate. It’s possible that the wheel not spinning as free just adjusted itself. A good way to check on brakes and hubs is to use a temperature gun to check if anything is getting hot when you stop on travel days.
-Steve
I would never advise a person that’s not very mechanical to use a grease gun. Take the bearing out and put grease in your palm and manually push the grease in until you see fresh grease come out. It is safer and there is no question about did i put to much and blow it out the back.
Nothing wrong with that if you check the back of the hub. That's why they design this new way. Doesn't take that long anyway. Spin and pump spin and pump. Took me less then 3 minutes and the old grease comes right out. You would check if the bearings are loose and if there is a smooth motion and check the back to see that the seal is good.
Then when they over tighten the wheel bearing and they burn up that so much better 😅😂😅😂 then using the grease gun !!
Nice video buddy. What size is the socket your using on the wheel bearing nut?? Is it standard size because I have two 3500 pound dexter axels. Thanks
Thanks Mike, that socket is 1-1/2” I know it fits some other axles that are heavy like the 7,000 lb ones I have but I can’t say for sure on the 3,500 lb axles but when I looked it up I also came up with 1-1/2” for 3,500 lb axles. -Steve
Socket: amzn.to/3LG9Eo2
This method is NOT a substitute for disassembly, cleaning and inspection, and reoacking of your bearing sets.
Without inspection, you have no real idea what's going on in there.
Why didn’t you show packing the bearings and inspecting the bearings?
John,
Since I have the EZ lube system and just needed to change the seal at the time of this video, I didn’t need to clean out the old grease and inspect the bearings or do a manual repack of the bearings. I used the EZ lube grease zerk to add grease after I put the hub back together. On my annual maintenance, I’ll use the EZ lube system to repack the bearings after an inspection. -Steve
How do you know what axle seals to get before you arrive at the job site?
@@erethmw you can search for the National axle/bearing chart to see the overview of all axles.
I carry the 2 options
National 412920 (bigger axles)
amzn.to/3WenqF6
National 473336 (smaller axles)
amzn.to/3XQYbKr
ALWAYS rotate he wheel when injecting grease into an EZlube bearing-axle system AMHIK
Do you by chance remember what model dexter bearings you have?
Bryan,
Yes I do, I’ll put the list below. When changing bearings, you always need to change the race as well. -Steve
Inner bearing: amzn.to/3uy6E5E
Inner race: amzn.to/3PeTUcc
Outer bearing: amzn.to/3bZrxAa
Outer race: amzn.to/3RgWzDY
@@RadarRoadWarriors I apologize I meant do you remember the part number of the dexter bearing seal that you replaced with the nationals
@@bryanprice1142 I’m sorry, I thought you meant the bearings since the seal is listed in the videos description. Here is the seal link: amzn.to/3Pf3888
@@RadarRoadWarriors I got those. I’m referring to the original dexter seals you replaced. Do you remember those part numbers? Mine are 010-036-00
Which inspection camera do you use?
I use this camera: amzn.to/3cCPjm9
my only neg comment is that you should ALWAYS replace both sides at the same time, it is cheap insurance to prevent issues later AND you know that BOTH were done so easier to keep track of in maint records cause why keep pulling it apart when once and done.... 🤠
Why do you think we only did one?
@@RadarRoadWarriors I’m referring to bearings & seals
@@meseahunt when we did the maintenance, we changed everything on both axles. We showed how to do it on the video on one wheel. We didn’t go back and repeat the process three more times for the video.
Wouldn’t some of the grease move outward from the bearing to the dust cover while driving? I feel like it needs more grease, just a thought.
Danny,
Yes some grease will work it’s way to the dust cover, however I haven’t had enough grease do that to deplete the bearings of the needed grease. I always take a few finger scoops and put some grease in the hub between the bearings to make sure there is enough. -Steve
Great video .How big is the socket I will have to buy one that big. Thanks
That’s a 1-1/2” socket for the axle nut.
Great how to video, I have the easy lube system on my kendon motorcycle trailer that I just picked up used. Just one question the retainer that goes on over the nut, instead of a cotter pin. Do you just snap that on any way you can, or is there a certain way that goes back on over the nut. Thank you
You’ll snap the retainer on anyway that keeps the nut as close to finger tight as possible. I usually have to back the nut off from finger tight a bit to get it to line up.
@@RadarRoadWarriors great, thank you for the quick response, and help. I appreciate it
Ugh, you go through the effort of pulling the wheel and drums off and then you don't properly repack your bearings with a bearing packer or by hand... The grease nipple on dexter axles are not meant to be used as a primary way of repacking your bearings, but rather as a "top up" in between full repacks.
Mike,
My bearings weren’t due for a repacking for this video. This video was made to show people how to do a simple grease job with the zerk and how to inspect/change a seal. Those 2 things are missed by a lot of RV owners. -Steve
Most modern automobiles come with sealed wheel bearings. Is this an option for RVs? If not, why?
Threedog,
Motorized RVs are built on an automotive frame and can have sealed bearings. I’m not aware of any towable RV with sealed bearings and I’m not sure why they are built with greaseable bearings. -Steve
Close ups would help a lot as well as showing what parts look like when removing or tightening would help. You show some but don't show a close-up of the actual removal of the clip or the nut.
Wow.
So much is made about greasing brngs.
I have Dexter axles with EZ lube, now the next part of this will send most folks into a bearing rage, so... spoiler alert.
Each season, before the first trip I get my hand grease gun, put a tube of Red n Tacky Lucas grease in it, now here it comes... I don't jack up any wheels, I simply pop the hub cap, put gun on zerk, and SLOWLY pump in new grease till I see the older, not bad older, just older grease, come through the outer brng evenly, and that is it.
Takes about 12 pumps.
Put hub cap back and onto next one till done.
That is all it takes.
THIS>> At the end of each season I jack each wheel up just off ground, spin the wheel and check hub for play.
If no play and wheel spins free I know all is well in there.
Study the design of the EZlube axle spindle and how grease flows in. It is a good design, and it works.
I put about 3500 to 5k on a season on/at turnpike speeds.
Everything is ok in the hubs..
They run cool and no grease seals have ever blown out.
Jus' sayin...
I do this the same way! 👍
I have a 2005 Jayco 33 ft travel trailer. I have owned it since new and have pulled it everywhere around the country. Since then can't even tell you how many miles I have on it to be honest. But I have been doing the same thing you do every year, every year after getting it out of storage I use Lucas the heavy-duty green Grease but either way never had a problem and I've always check the hubs during the trips and they have never gotten even warm. So if you do the math that's sixteen years of dragging this thing around the country with no problems to date. I feel fine doing it this way but by no means if you feel better tearing it apart then that's what you need to do for sure be safe and enjoy it while you can life is too short to sweat the small things.
Why are you using the grease fitting if you just repacked every thing by hand?
In this video I’m not packing the bearings by hand. Although you can add a few pumps of grease through the grease zerk after a manual repacking if you’d like but it’s not necessary. You can follow Dexters procedure with the EZ lube grease fitting or a manual repack. -Steve
Is it a coincidence how youtubers always skip the part about how to load the grease gun?
Johnson, Sorry about skipping that step. It didn’t cross my mind since the video wasn’t a grease gun review but I should’ve added that part in. -Steve
Since when do you tork the bearing? Don't you turn the castle nut until you have very little play then put your cotter pin in and your done. At least that's my design on a 2021 wildwood. 50 lbs it's not a lug nut. Don't understand your logic unless it's a total different design I don't know about.
That is the spec in the Dexter manual. Once it is set by torque, you loosen the nut, and the finger tightened. It's on page 56: www.dexteraxle.com/LDCSM
@@RadarRoadWarriors well still don't understand that and iv done enough of them. But whatever floats your boat.
@@topgun5399 I can't help any further if you don't understand what is listed in the manual.
@@RadarRoadWarriors no problem thanks
Why are your taking all that off if you have the ez lube system?
Hi Scott, I took of the tire because the second part of the video was showing how to change a blown wheel seal. If I was just greasing the wheel bearing, I would not have to take it apart.
retorquing should not be necessary on an axle with significant road miles on it, just take the slack out of the bearing system.
Anthony,
When I read the manual (page 52), I interpret that adjusting the bearings means I would retorque the bearings as it states in the bearing adjustment section (page 56). -Steve
www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf
@@RadarRoadWarriors Important to note that Dexter doesn’t manufacture the bearings and doesn’t follow the bearing manufactures procedures for installing the bearings or setting the clearance. Follow Timken bearing procedure as in their video on RUclips. The lash (in/out movement of the hub should be 1 to 5 thousands. Or finger tighten the nut snugly, then back it off 1/6 to 1/4 turn and lock it to the closest position but never less than 1/6 to 1/8 of a turn loose. Never torque an old bearing unless the race was removed and reinstalled into the hub. Torquing a new bearing is to make sure the race has fully seated into the hub. After that, re-torquing an old bearing can damage rollers and/or the race. Finger tightening and back off the nut the proper amount and locking it is all that is needed. Believe me after 50 years of towing and maintaining all types of trailers from farm to semi’s, and a mechanic for that long also, I have learned and observed what destroys bearings. That being, improper clearance settings and lack of proper lubrication, but by far the worst error is no clearance. That clearance is what allows the bearing to be lubricated and cooled, just like the clearance needed on rod and main bearings in an engine. Without the clearance, you force metal on metal and force the grease out of the bearing races and rollers surfaces. That results in heat, metal expansion and metal fatigue and then it starts to shed and rip itself apart. Ninety nine percent of the videos on RUclips are wrong. I have only seen two so far that have been correct. You were close, but didn’t exactly follow the Dexter manual, at least in your video as far as a clearer setting of the clearance and retaining nut adjustment. Regards!
@@calvingeisinger2639 thanks for the helpful info. I’ll look up the Timken specs on the next service. -Steve
They recommend not to jack the trailer on the axle.
That’s correct Norman, if you put the Jack under the axle tube you can bend the axle tube. In this video I talk about lifting the RV by placing the jack under the spring next to the axle tube so I don’t bend the tube. -Steve
ALWAYS JACK UNDER THE TRAILER FRAME!
@@markdolphin1446 dude. No. Under the suspension is just fine.
NEVER use EZ Lube it has a high chance to blow the seals and place grease all over the brakes. Do proper bearing packing so you can inspect the bearing and race then repack and install new seal
Lazy Lube is the biggest fraud ever perpetrated on the RV buying public. The system was meant to be used on boat trailers.
Interesting; I'd like to read more about that. Do you have a source for more information.?