etrailer | Curt Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Ford Escape
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
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Today in our 2017 Ford Escape, we'll be having a look at and installing the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Part number C56320. And here's what our wiring looks like installed. This wiring harness uses the basic lighting functions that are required by law in order for us to safely tow a trailer. Our green wire here gives us our right turn signal and right brake light. The yellow wire gives us our left turn signal and left brake light.
Our brown wire here is our taillights and running lights circuit and our white wire is our ground. Now, both our green and yellow wire have three amps of power output per side and our brown wire here has a total power output of six amps for our taillight and running light circuit. So, if we're towing an older trailer that only has a few incandescent light bulbs on it, we'll be okay. If we're towing a new trailer that has a lot of LED lights on it, we don't have anything to worry about because LED do draw less power than incandescent lights do. Our wiring harness has this nice dustcover. They slide on over it to protect the wiring when it's not in use.
This will keep any dirt and debris out of the connector, causing a poor connection or a short possibly. And you can also use this to secure it around the safety chain loops on your hitch, so your wiring is readily accessible next time you tow your trailer. This will help keep it from dragging on the ground as well. Now, what I really like about this wiring harness is that it's plug and play. You don't have to do any splicing of any of the factory wiring and, also, you can actually mount the 4-pole flat connector inside the vehicle, if you prefer, to help even further protect it from the elements or if you want you can have it on the outside like we do.
Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed. All right. To begin our install, we'll start by opening our hatch. Now, we'll take out all of our floor coverings. All right. If your vehicle is equipped with the premium audio package, you'll have an amplifier on the driver's side in this storage bin.
We'll need to unplug the three connectors on it. One, two, and three. Just push in on the tab on the top and pull back to release. Same for all three. So, here's the tabs again. Just press on the top and you can pull back to release it. Now, on the passenger side, we have our satellite radio module. We need to unplug this as well too. Start with antenna. Push in on the tab. Pull back. Then the wire harness here, do the tab on top. Now, these Styrofoam panels are held in place with two plastic clips. One towards the front and one towards the back. Remove these with a trim panel tool just by popping up, then I can lift the panel up and out of the vehicle. We'll do the same on the other side. Now, on each far end of our threshold here in the center of the vehicle, we have a T25 torx screw that we need to remove and then further towards the center, we have a plastic push pin fastener that we'll use our trim panel tool on to remove. And we have the same thing on the other side of the panel. Now, the panel, I think you can just grab it, pull it on up, and set it aside. Now, we need to remove our side panels here partially. Use our trim panel tool, get in behind, and then pull, separate it to do the same on the other side. Now, we have two plastic covers that go over the fasteners that hold our taillights in place. We'll pop these out with the flathead screwdriver. Behind those covers, we find two eight millimeter screws. We'll remove these. Now, we'll grab our taillight assembly and start pulling it towards the back of the vehicle to release it. There's a tab on our connector right here. So, press in on this tab and pull back to separate. And here's our tab that we pressed in on. Just like our other connectors, you press in, pull back for release. Now, keep in mind, everything we do on one side of the vehicle, we'll repeat on the other side. Now, we'll take our grommet here, where our taillight wiring harness comes in and pull it on out of our vehicle. Sometimes, you need to push it in all the way, then you can grab it and pull out. Now, our connector that has the red, brown, and yellow wire, we're gonna take and route behind our driver side panel and it'll come out the hole where the grommet was for our taillight wiring. Now, we'll plug the male into the female end on the car. These are keyed so they can only go in one way. I'll push it in until it clicks in place. We'll pull back and make sure it's secure. Now, we're gonna cut a slit in our grommet, so that our wires can p
Awesome vid. Helped a lot more than the instructions that came with it. Made it a real easy install. Thanks.
Awesome video. There's another that shows running the wiring external which does not require interior panel removal. I feel this video, running the wiring inside the vehicle (except for the power wire) is much cleaner. Everything about the video is perfect except they do not show the actual threading of the "air tube" from the engine compartment down the frame bottom. They also do not show that my much remove the nuts and lower some panels to route the power wire from the back to the front. But that's not that hard to figure out. Again, all the eTrailer videos are great.
Great video instruction. Install went super easy.
Thankyou, most enlightening and done well
Thank you for the feedback! Check out the following link for more information on this trailer wiring harness for your 2017 Ford Escape.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Curt/C56320.html
Instead of cutting the garments for the light should be slit in the middle just enough for the connectors to pass through so they sit water tight around the rings so when you apply the silicon will seal everything and stay that way. What tends to happen 3 or more years down the road when you cut the side water goes in because the ring starts to fold onto itself
Hi, great solution! It fits on Escape Europe model (Kuga)? Thanks!
Good instructions until you get to the part about the pull wire. Where does the pull wire go through to get to underside of the car? When routing the power wire under the car did you have to remove the plastic panels or could you easily pass the wire over the plastic panels? Thanks!
You just want to keep the pull wire away from anything hot or moving in the engine compartment. We did not have to remove panels but it tends to be a bit easier if you do.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Curt/C56320.html
Part # for the tube bar? Everything I'm finding is square
Check out the following link for more information on the round cross tube hitch that is on this vehicle.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw-Tite/75758.html
My wiring kit seemed to gave more stuff on the passenger side wires making it hard to line the tail lamp back up. Any suggestions
why does everyone seem to want to run the power wire the length of the vehicle to the battery when there is a fuse box in the right rear side panel?
The power wire is ran directly to the vehicle battery to protect the vehicle's sensitive electronics and computers for short circuits that are common trailers. It connects directly to the vehicle battery to bypass the vehicle's electrical system completely.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Curt/C56320.html
In the rear fuse box, there is a single positive spade sticking out between the bigger fuses in the middle, this where the factory trailer wiring fuse would be, second spade is added when factory tow package is ordered,
Source: my brother, Ford Service Tech of 22 years
Can you tell me where your location is so i can get this done..
I've provided a link with all of our contact information and location.
www.etrailer.com/customer-service.aspx