After having two strokes and being away from work 14 years, I appreciate your instruction and video's. Helps me remember procedures I used when I was working as a Technician. I had 40 years before I couldn't work anymore. Thankyou very much for your expertise and time. I've ran into a few of the same issues back in the day. God Bless You, and thanks again . ✌️❤️🙏🙏👍👍
Great video! Great testing methods, and showing the “mistakes” you made just adds to the authenticity of the video. We all do the same thing so we can relate. thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome video! Although it made sense to make a temporary repair to the alternator-battery cable, I would've been nervous to possibly put 50v to the battery. I think I would've put a scope on the alternator control wire, and then hooked up a battery maintainer to the battery. This would increase battery voltage, and the pcm should see that and cut back on the alternator control, reducing its output. Then I would've made the wire repair. Your way got you there quicker but I would've been scared lol.
The charge system is a closed loop system. The engine starts, the computer analyzes system voltage and then adjusts the pulse width to the exciter in the alternator to get the correct operating voltage. If the system voltage doesn't increase to where the computer wants it then it increases the duty cycle of the pulse going to the exciter coil until it reaches its desired operating voltage. If the voltage it reads is too high then it decreases the duty cycle of the pulse to the exciter to decrease the voltage. It must be closed loop for it to work and give the correct voltage and if the alternator isn't connected to the battery then there is no loop, its just seeing the battery voltage that isn't changing. Someone probably jumped it incorrectly or, more likely, shorted the alternator positive to ground and fried that wire. Without that wire to the alternator the computer can't see what the alternator is doing...
The moron who programmed this, should be fired. There is no fail-safe option in case of broken circuit etc. Stupid design. Pushing 100% PWM should be impossible or time restricted (a 1-2 seconds max.), plus error message/battery light on the dash.
Exactly 💯 In 1983 dad bought a 1980 Ply Volare Premier Wagon with California Emissions. Battery shorted out causing alternator to over charge burning out the external regulator as well. I was 9 yrs old watching & learning. We couldn't figure out why the charging system shut down not charging the DIEHARD battery. It turned out to be the 7 or 8 WIRE bulk fusible link harness next to the battery burned out the feed for the signal wire for the voltage Regulator bolted on the firewall. Back then The systems were easy. I'm amazed that Chrysler still has a Fusible link Safety system that seems to stump everyone. Since then I've learned to check Chrysler vehicles for this situation if they came in for charging system issues. NOT MANY MECHANICS TODAY ARE KNOWLEDGEABLE ENOUGH TO FIGURE THIS OUT. I've fixed many vehicles just by repairing the burned out link. My mentor Alfred J Valaitis " VALAITIS MOTOR SERV SOUTH PHILADELPHIA PA Taught me the same thing that CAMDEN COUNTY VOCATIONAL & TECHNICAL SCHOOL DIDN'T TEACH ME BUT THANK GOD I ALREADY LEARNED THIS TRICK @ 9 YRS OLD! PPL YOU ARE BORN WITH EYES 👀 EARS 👂 & A FUCKN BRAIN 🧠 IF YOU DON'T USE IT THEY TURN INTO BRIBEN BIDEN' GUMBO & BTW EVERYONE THAT TOOK BRIBEN BIDEN'S WUHAN CHINA VIRUS 🦠🦟 VAXX STAB ( YOUR BRAIN IS SLOWLY TURNING INTO GUMBO ) !! THANK FAUCET FRAUD/ILLEGALLY PLACED BRIBEN BIDEN' & VP HARRIS CALIFORNIA'S EX SENATOR FOR THE ONGOING SIDEWALK COLOSTOMY BAG SITUATION RESIDING IN OUR UNITED STATES WHITE HOUSE! 💥 BADA BING BADA BOOM 💥 I APPROVE THIS MESSAGE 🙌 Nj'sJfJr 👍🏼💪🏼❤️🇺🇸
In Canada, fusible links used to be a large, large problem. Salt, snow, and just under engineered wiring, failed at the link far more than anyone imagined. They are better now as they are 'heavier' and better protected. Chrysler products wiring are always under engineered...
It sure is nice to see real technicians working on these vehicles I’m disabled from a high school football injury and worked as a tech and manager for over thirty years I could not find help this good but stubborn me I’m having a fifth surgery too strengthen c2 to t7 and have bone removed from two levels and c7 to t5 fused that is twelve levels and hopefully 🤞 I get the results I need to return to what I love to do fix these cars ❤
After 30 plus years I've encountered a lot of various manufacturers and systems . On the ones I am not sure about or haven't seen in a while I always familiarize myself with the system before I dive in
Great diagnostic testing by powerflow paths not jumping to conclusions really like the scope and features need to purchase one keep up great job! fellow mechanic mechanic
This is really a great channel. He explains everything in detail. At this rate, he will have 500k subscribers. Thanks for taking your time at a busy shop to make these videos. The warped brake hub video really hooked me onto this channel.
I believe the vehicle was used to jump another car and the cables were hooked backwards.that is why it blew up the fuse link. Japanese cars have like 100 amp fuse and they do the same. They blow up when somebody hooks the cables backwards. In regards to the output cable from the alternator to the battery. I think a continuity test could’ve been used to make sure that the cable was not shorted to ground after that just connected the way you did at the end…. Great video overall thank you.
Great video. No need to apologize for doing testing and diagnostics the way you feel you need to do it to resolve the problem. If you could mention what sources you use each time you research a problem, that would be a big help for us DYIers.
This was a good one something new, at this point not much left to throw at it, you can smell the frustration through the screen! You could've saved them a lot of money. One industry where someone says you get what you pay for, here's an example where thats not true.
Unless you've got the specs.... A 1993 Chevy C1500. I drove the pickup from Columbus, Ohio, to Las Vegas, Nevada the Spring of 2024. During the trip, the volt meter was jumping from 10 to 16 volts. The alternator was original to when I purchased the truck in 2003. Okay, once in Las Vegas helping retired mother with numerous home repair issues, I decided to tackle the alternator, plug and play, right? This was an old school three wire alternator. The coil exciter wire came from ignition on, through the idiot light on the dash, and to the alternator's primary rotor winding. The second wire was the main power output cable to the positive post of the battery. The third wire was the voltage sense wire. This wire usually gets run to the main power distribution block where the correct voltage needs to be sensed. First replacement alternator goes in and operates just fine for fifteen minutes before going dark (back to battery voltage). The second alternator goes in, same result. The third is a repeat of the previous two... WTF? Why are these things frying? I was all over the data sheet for the alternator. I was all over the Internet researching... Since this was turning into a deeper debugging effort, I had to Amazon purchase a current clamp meter, an inexpensive Harbor Freight multi-meter, and a bunch of alligator clip test leads... The joys of doing a simple job 2,000 miles away from all your diagnostics tools... I was starting to get the stink eye from the alternator supply house (one of the typical retail establishments). So, I dropped the dime on another unit from another retail vendor. And the forth one? I was only going to run it for a minute or two as I took current and voltage measurements. Most likely, the voltage regulator and/or rectifier are frying for some reason. So, only run it for very short periods of time to meter things. But, the second vendor's part data sheet had one *_extremely_* informative piece of information... "The exciter wire should never surpass 1.0 amps of current." And guess what? The truck's exciter wire was generating 1.2 amps of current. Amazon provided a couple of various figure low ohm 10 watt resistors which I put in-line with the exciter circuit. I errored on the side of caution and installed a resistor of high enough ohms to drop the current to below 0.5 amps. This also had the side effect of making the dash idiot light about the alternator inoperative. But, since I was going to need to drive the truck 2,000 miles back home, I could live with the dark idiot light. The dash voltage gauge would provide all the necessary information just as long as I kept an eye on it... The whole effort was a royal pain in the @55. And yes, part of my testing was to do voltage drop testing on both the power and ground sides of the alternator's output. Winter is in full swing and the idiot light is still dark. When the weather breaks, I'll experiment with a variable resistance decade box to satisfy the less-than-one-amp exciter current circuit limit *_and_* illuminate the idiot light.
Good diagnosis. Thank you for starting this channel and posting quality content. Would a simple voltage drop from B+ to alternator charging post have shown the issue? Also I would suspect the high volt was due to the open circuit on the charge wire.
The fact that you measured 50V at the alternator and the engine ran and the gauge cluster looked normal was telling you that the fusible link was open!
Surprised the new alternator survived being full fielded like that , just goes to show not all cheap alternators are crap , good video showing this problem with fuseable link cables, well done on the sub's too .
Some alternators can be modded to provide 120V DC by monkeying with the field coil circuitry. Off-road guys do this so they can run angle grinders etc. for trail repairs. Obviously you have a disconnect switch to separate the alternator from your 12V system while you have it in 120V mode!
Have LS-Gen3-6.0 in 2007 JK Wrangler...interested in how TIPM changes with BCM interact with HVAC and Fuel Pump Issues...Love to hear the "values" on how the TIPM "tries" to adjust system settings!
Wide band o2 senors are 6 wires. But you can still read a 0-1 voltage. Also, when you fix a misfire you need to reset fuel trims to allow the PCM to properly relearn
The hood prop rods for those will come loose from the core support and I have seen them rattle back to short on the alternator. Might have been the reason for the initial short of the fusible link.
Great job on Diagnosis. Only thing I would of checked after repair is the diodes in alternator. They can be damaged by the alternator not connected to battery. Courius to see what the A/C voltage ripple was
Based on personal experience with a Chrysler alternator, what likely happened was the rectifier shorted out in the original alternator, turning into a dead short across the battery. That will have fried the alternator cable, melting it nearly all the way through. Alternator will have been replaced. Damaged alternator wire will have been intermittently connecting, providing spikes of 33V to the 12V bus. This could easily have killed the engine computer (and other modules throughout the vehicle too...I wouldn't buy this vehicle!).
Hey man I love ur videos and ur teaching style. You make it was to learn. Anybody that watches you knows you wouldn't leave it world up like that. I wouldn't placate to the negative comments. Comments are comments and they are good for your channel.
Have seen all of your videos now. Very cool to have all this informations. I was able to learn a lot how to diagnose. Hope you can make more of these diag videos with oscilloscope... you and your collegues are doing a great job. Best regards from germany. PS: why are you so rarely using the Pico? What Pico do you own? 4425A?
Just by looking at the battery lugs, wire corrosion and hack workmanship, there is a lot of testing to be done key on engine off before you ever start trouble shooting the charging system with engine on. I would begin by comparing the wiring diagram for charging, power distribution and starting to the vehicle wiring to see if everything looks correct. Then understand the work needed to repair the harnesses, lugs and wires so I could quote the customer. The large broken ground wire needs to be repaired before further testing. But, based on the corrosion of the wire my guess is the car needs more electrical repairs before it can be diagnosed.
Over analyzing? When you saw the open circuit (intermittent) between the b battery and the alternator it fully explained the high voltage at the alternator and the lack of charging. Done. Close that circuit and those problems are fixed. Done. That 10 gauged wire did not burn from current. It was physically damaged by somebody under the hood. What's sad is the previous shop throwing an alternator and computer at the car and charged the customer (probably about $1000)I. I've nearly fallen victim to shops doing expensive repairs based on their wrong diagnosis. Curious to know if their credit cared contract prevents them from doing a mechanics lean if I'd ever need to charge back credit card charged on unneeded repairs.
I'd be nervous connecting that cable too, a step I would have added would be watch the field signal wire to the alternator while adding a battery charger to the vehicle battery, if above target voltage like say 14.5v (maybe it would require a power supply instead, I have one capable of 60V 18A) and watch for the pwm to ween off and for alternator voltage to fall below 14.
That will happen on any vehicle that has an open between the alt. and battery regardless of whether the alt is computer controlled or not. I've came across this 4 times in my career. The first time took a minute...the last 3 took less than a minute. The chevy I found was at 72V.
The alternator high output voltage suggested a broken sense wire from the beginning, but you never know. Why should the alternator even be able to put out 50+ volts in any case?
The engine ground cable. Many of these OE engine grounds disintegrate because they are incapable to handle up to 250 amps from modern alternators. When a bad engine ground exists the electrons travel thru the driveline causing all kinds of issues.
Test DON'T Guess👍💯👍💯👍💯...New Subscriber...keep the videos coming with your easy to understand explanations. Keep Up The Great Work Yazmin...Venice Beach CA 🌊🏄♀️🏄♂️🌴🌴🌴😎😎😎
I believe i would have replaced that broken power wire and then just kept an eye on the voltage and amperage at the battery before I wasted a bunch of time playing with the scope and over-complicating things
Had a similar situation when we replaced our station battery charger (125Vdc) wired up the charger, fired it up with no battery load and we were getting like 150Vdc.The rep for the charger was telling us there's no way, he checked himself. His install tech closed the isolation between the charger and the batteries. The charger voltage dropped down to about 130Vdc.
Honestly, I just skipped through the previous video on testing alternators and I might have missed any voltage drop testing in that video. In this video, a VD test would have found the burnt fusible link. Maybe the previous shop could have saved the customer a lot of money by doing a VD test on the recharge wire before it was totally burned, I am sure something would have shown up on the meter. Please include some VD testing if you do a newer LIN Alternator testing video, cheers.
Nice Diagnosis . Customers really don't appreciate what it takes for us to figure everything out. It's mind blowing to everyone else but us.. Customer or another shop hung part's on it & this is what we call " someone else fuck up. 💥 BADA BING BADA BOOM 💥 I APPROVE THIS MESSAGE 🙌 Nj'sJfJr 👍🏼💪🏼❤️🇺🇸
That doesn't look burnt, it looks corroded and stressed, and then maybe when it was just a couple of strands, it got hot from overloading what is essentially a small wire at that point.
Hi what was the amperage when the voltage was high, usually when voltage goes up amperage goes down at least when cars had regulators just curious nice find and repair though
What "amperage"?! The main circuit was broken, there was no load. Only voltage was produced. Clearly stupid design (no "fail-safe" mode), pushing 100% PWM like crazy from the ECU or whatever controls the alternator.
At 14:30, there is nothing wrong with temporary connections for diagnostic purposes, anyone criticizing you on that is ignorant and envious of your ability.
It's not any positive, it's the one that runs from the alternator to the battery, hence requires to be fused if the alternator overcharges whatsoever so to protect the vehicle circuitry
2012 Caravan doesn't have fusible link alternator feed. Internal diode shorted out, took full current from battery, housing of alternator got hot enough it turned the housing and metal ID plate black. But the alternator-battery cable was fine.
After having two strokes and being away from work 14 years, I appreciate your instruction and video's. Helps me remember procedures I used when I was working as a Technician. I had 40 years before I couldn't work anymore. Thankyou very much for your expertise and time. I've ran into a few of the same issues back in the day. God Bless You, and thanks again . ✌️❤️🙏🙏👍👍
Assuming you're not lying why would you do anything like this?
Late model Chrysler charging systems are the gift that keeps on giving! They'll keep us busy for a long time ! .
job security
I'm picky about what automotive channels I watch but this one is great. Hope it keeps growing. Great information.
👍👍 very informative video. We live and learn. Thanks again...!
Great video! Great testing methods, and showing the “mistakes” you made just adds to the authenticity of the video. We all do the same thing so we can relate. thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome video! Although it made sense to make a temporary repair to the alternator-battery cable, I would've been nervous to possibly put 50v to the battery. I think I would've put a scope on the alternator control wire, and then hooked up a battery maintainer to the battery. This would increase battery voltage, and the pcm should see that and cut back on the alternator control, reducing its output. Then I would've made the wire repair. Your way got you there quicker but I would've been scared lol.
you cant even begin to diagnose it with that wire disconnected
The charge system is a closed loop system. The engine starts, the computer analyzes system voltage and then adjusts the pulse width to the exciter in the alternator to get the correct operating voltage. If the system voltage doesn't increase to where the computer wants it then it increases the duty cycle of the pulse going to the exciter coil until it reaches its desired operating voltage. If the voltage it reads is too high then it decreases the duty cycle of the pulse to the exciter to decrease the voltage. It must be closed loop for it to work and give the correct voltage and if the alternator isn't connected to the battery then there is no loop, its just seeing the battery voltage that isn't changing. Someone probably jumped it incorrectly or, more likely, shorted the alternator positive to ground and fried that wire. Without that wire to the alternator the computer can't see what the alternator is doing...
The moron who programmed this, should be fired. There is no fail-safe option in case of broken circuit etc. Stupid design. Pushing 100% PWM should be impossible or time restricted (a 1-2 seconds max.), plus error message/battery light on the dash.
You are very correct
What a great answer. Thanks for posting it 😊
Exactly 💯
In 1983 dad bought a 1980 Ply Volare Premier Wagon with California Emissions.
Battery shorted out causing alternator to over charge burning out the external regulator as well. I was 9 yrs old watching & learning. We couldn't figure out why the charging system shut down not charging the DIEHARD battery.
It turned out to be the 7 or 8 WIRE bulk fusible link harness next to the battery burned out the feed for the signal wire for the voltage Regulator bolted on the firewall.
Back then The systems were easy.
I'm amazed that Chrysler still has a Fusible link Safety system that seems to stump everyone. Since then I've learned to check Chrysler vehicles for this situation if they came in for charging system issues.
NOT MANY MECHANICS TODAY ARE KNOWLEDGEABLE ENOUGH TO FIGURE THIS OUT.
I've fixed many vehicles just by repairing the burned out link.
My mentor Alfred J Valaitis " VALAITIS MOTOR SERV SOUTH PHILADELPHIA PA
Taught me the same thing that CAMDEN COUNTY VOCATIONAL & TECHNICAL SCHOOL DIDN'T TEACH ME BUT THANK GOD I ALREADY LEARNED THIS TRICK @ 9 YRS OLD!
PPL
YOU ARE BORN WITH EYES 👀 EARS 👂 & A FUCKN BRAIN 🧠 IF YOU DON'T USE IT THEY TURN INTO BRIBEN BIDEN' GUMBO & BTW EVERYONE THAT TOOK BRIBEN BIDEN'S WUHAN CHINA VIRUS 🦠🦟 VAXX STAB
( YOUR BRAIN IS SLOWLY TURNING
INTO GUMBO ) !!
THANK
FAUCET FRAUD/ILLEGALLY PLACED BRIBEN BIDEN' & VP HARRIS CALIFORNIA'S EX SENATOR FOR THE ONGOING SIDEWALK COLOSTOMY BAG SITUATION RESIDING IN OUR UNITED STATES WHITE HOUSE!
💥 BADA BING BADA BOOM 💥
I APPROVE THIS MESSAGE 🙌
Nj'sJfJr 👍🏼💪🏼❤️🇺🇸
Exactly 👍
In Canada, fusible links used to be a large, large problem. Salt, snow, and just under engineered wiring, failed at the link far more than anyone imagined. They are better now as they are 'heavier' and better protected. Chrysler products wiring are always under engineered...
It sure is nice to see real technicians working on these vehicles I’m disabled from a high school football injury and worked as a tech and manager for over thirty years I could not find help this good but stubborn me I’m having a fifth surgery too strengthen c2 to t7 and have bone removed from two levels and c7 to t5 fused that is twelve levels and hopefully 🤞 I get the results I need to return to what I love to do fix these cars ❤
I didn’t know it alternator will put out that much voltage good demonstration
You can get a couple hundred volts out of some of them if you disable the regulation circuitry.
After 30 plus years I've encountered a lot of various manufacturers and systems . On the ones I am not sure about or haven't seen in a while I always familiarize myself with the system before I dive in
Sheldon, thanks for sharing your expertise and including your diagnostic procedures.
Great diagnostic testing by powerflow paths not jumping to conclusions really like the scope and features need to purchase one keep up great job! fellow mechanic mechanic
Great video.Nice to see you guys hit the 50,000. All the best from Tassie Australia..
I need to drive my Mazda to your clinic. Nobody I know cares and is as thorough as you
This is really a great channel. He explains everything in detail. At this rate, he will have 500k subscribers. Thanks for taking your time at a busy shop to make these videos. The warped brake hub video really hooked me onto this channel.
They made me want that ats scope lmao . But I agree they gonna be a huge channel soon.
nice video and very thorough diag ...using the right tools and a good walk through .I make a test light you may like LMK
Diag alone is tough u did an amazing job
I believe the vehicle was used to jump another car and the cables were hooked backwards.that is why it blew up the fuse link. Japanese cars have like 100 amp fuse and they do the same. They blow up when somebody hooks the cables backwards.
In regards to the output cable from the alternator to the battery. I think a continuity test could’ve been used to make sure that the cable was not shorted to ground after that just connected the way you did at the end…. Great video overall thank you.
This is real deal no fluff pure /::;; I like that you showed your minor mistakes. And then always a fix of the problem 👊🏻👍🏻
Great video. No need to apologize for doing testing and diagnostics the way you feel you need to do it to resolve the problem. If you could mention what sources you use each time you research a problem, that would be a big help for us DYIers.
This was a good one something new, at this point not much left to throw at it, you can smell the frustration through the screen! You could've saved them a lot of money. One industry where someone says you get what you pay for, here's an example where thats not true.
those leads are nice and long and can reach around the entire engine compartant where can I get a set of those?
Great video as always.I think anyone that has ever done anything has made simple mistakes. As long as you see it, it's not really a mistake.
Unless you've got the specs....
A 1993 Chevy C1500.
I drove the pickup from Columbus, Ohio, to Las Vegas, Nevada the Spring of 2024. During the trip, the volt meter was jumping from 10 to 16 volts. The alternator was original to when I purchased the truck in 2003.
Okay, once in Las Vegas helping retired mother with numerous home repair issues, I decided to tackle the alternator, plug and play, right? This was an old school three wire alternator. The coil exciter wire came from ignition on, through the idiot light on the dash, and to the alternator's primary rotor winding. The second wire was the main power output cable to the positive post of the battery. The third wire was the voltage sense wire. This wire usually gets run to the main power distribution block where the correct voltage needs to be sensed.
First replacement alternator goes in and operates just fine for fifteen minutes before going dark (back to battery voltage). The second alternator goes in, same result. The third is a repeat of the previous two...
WTF? Why are these things frying?
I was all over the data sheet for the alternator. I was all over the Internet researching... Since this was turning into a deeper debugging effort, I had to Amazon purchase a current clamp meter, an inexpensive Harbor Freight multi-meter, and a bunch of alligator clip test leads...
The joys of doing a simple job 2,000 miles away from all your diagnostics tools...
I was starting to get the stink eye from the alternator supply house (one of the typical retail establishments). So, I dropped the dime on another unit from another retail vendor. And the forth one? I was only going to run it for a minute or two as I took current and voltage measurements. Most likely, the voltage regulator and/or rectifier are frying for some reason. So, only run it for very short periods of time to meter things.
But, the second vendor's part data sheet had one *_extremely_* informative piece of information... "The exciter wire should never surpass 1.0 amps of current." And guess what? The truck's exciter wire was generating 1.2 amps of current.
Amazon provided a couple of various figure low ohm 10 watt resistors which I put in-line with the exciter circuit. I errored on the side of caution and installed a resistor of high enough ohms to drop the current to below 0.5 amps. This also had the side effect of making the dash idiot light about the alternator inoperative. But, since I was going to need to drive the truck 2,000 miles back home, I could live with the dark idiot light. The dash voltage gauge would provide all the necessary information just as long as I kept an eye on it...
The whole effort was a royal pain in the @55. And yes, part of my testing was to do voltage drop testing on both the power and ground sides of the alternator's output.
Winter is in full swing and the idiot light is still dark. When the weather breaks, I'll experiment with a variable resistance decade box to satisfy the less-than-one-amp exciter current circuit limit *_and_* illuminate the idiot light.
I am here to learn not to complain, thanks for the upload. 👍.
Good diagnosis. Thank you for starting this channel and posting quality content.
Would a simple voltage drop from B+ to alternator charging post have shown the issue? Also I would suspect the high volt was due to the open circuit on the charge wire.
Open circuit on the alternator field coil would result in 0V alternator output.
The fact that you measured 50V at the alternator and the engine ran and the gauge cluster looked normal was telling you that the fusible link was open!
Excellent video, taking you're time not over analyzing keeping it simply.
Surprised the new alternator survived being full fielded like that , just goes to show not all cheap alternators are crap , good video showing this problem with fuseable link cables, well done on the sub's too .
Some alternators can be modded to provide 120V DC by monkeying with the field coil circuitry. Off-road guys do this so they can run angle grinders etc. for trail repairs. Obviously you have a disconnect switch to separate the alternator from your 12V system while you have it in 120V mode!
Top G of technicians
Great video, Thanks for sharing! I'm assuming this was reverse jumpstarted blowing the fusible link causing all the problems.
Great video. I appreciate what you guys do. 🙏. I was going to ask about the AC video also 😂
Have LS-Gen3-6.0 in 2007 JK Wrangler...interested in how TIPM changes with BCM interact with HVAC and Fuel Pump Issues...Love to hear the "values" on how the TIPM "tries" to adjust system settings!
Wide band o2 senors are 6 wires. But you can still read a 0-1 voltage. Also, when you fix a misfire you need to reset fuel trims to allow the PCM to properly relearn
The hood prop rods for those will come loose from the core support and I have seen them rattle back to short on the alternator. Might have been the reason for the initial short of the fusible link.
Great job on Diagnosis. Only thing I would of checked after repair is the diodes in alternator. They can be damaged by the alternator not connected to battery. Courius to see what the A/C voltage ripple was
nice to see im not the only one that makes mistakes like that when doing diag you could have cut that out
Indeed. A humble person admits making mistakes and learns from those mistakes
Based on personal experience with a Chrysler alternator, what likely happened was the rectifier shorted out in the original alternator, turning into a dead short across the battery. That will have fried the alternator cable, melting it nearly all the way through. Alternator will have been replaced. Damaged alternator wire will have been intermittently connecting, providing spikes of 33V to the 12V bus. This could easily have killed the engine computer (and other modules throughout the vehicle too...I wouldn't buy this vehicle!).
Hey man I love ur videos and ur teaching style. You make it was to learn. Anybody that watches you knows you wouldn't leave it world up like that. I wouldn't placate to the negative comments. Comments are comments and they are good for your channel.
This is an excellent channel love the content I steer my young techs to this channel
off the wall question but what brand is that pullover your wearing?
Thank you for the instruction. Great class.😊
Love your channel.
I always enjoy your perspective! Keep up the good work.
How many times have you wrapped your test leads up in the drive belts ?😅😅
Have seen all of your videos now. Very cool to have all this informations. I was able to learn a lot how to diagnose. Hope you can make more of these diag videos with oscilloscope... you and your collegues are doing a great job. Best regards from germany. PS: why are you so rarely using the Pico? What Pico do you own? 4425A?
Soooo, with that broken wire, was the PCM ramping up the voltage because it basically seen the battery at zero??? Would make sense to me?? 🤷🏻
Love the channel, thanks for all you do!
nice diag. some people dont know what a fusible link is.
Just by looking at the battery lugs, wire corrosion and hack workmanship, there is a lot of testing to be done key on engine off before you ever start trouble shooting the charging system with engine on. I would begin by comparing the wiring diagram for charging, power distribution and starting to the vehicle wiring to see if everything looks correct. Then understand the work needed to repair the harnesses, lugs and wires so I could quote the customer. The large broken ground wire needs to be repaired before further testing. But, based on the corrosion of the wire my guess is the car needs more electrical repairs before it can be diagnosed.
Not been here long but like what i see so far guys..👍👍😊
Over analyzing?
When you saw the open circuit (intermittent) between the b battery and the alternator it fully explained the high voltage at the alternator and the lack of charging. Done. Close that circuit and those problems are fixed. Done.
That 10 gauged wire did not burn from current. It was physically damaged by somebody under the hood.
What's sad is the previous shop throwing an alternator and computer at the car and charged the customer (probably about $1000)I. I've nearly fallen victim to shops doing expensive repairs based on their wrong diagnosis.
Curious to know if their credit cared contract prevents them from doing a mechanics lean if I'd ever need to charge back credit card charged on unneeded repairs.
I’m just gonna say whatever camera you’re using it’s amazing!!
We had dodge omni rubber mounted alts with external reg doing the same thing it was missing a case ground
I'd be nervous connecting that cable too, a step I would have added would be watch the field signal wire to the alternator while adding a battery charger to the vehicle battery, if above target voltage like say 14.5v (maybe it would require a power supply instead, I have one capable of 60V 18A) and watch for the pwm to ween off and for alternator voltage to fall below 14.
That will happen on any vehicle that has an open between the alt. and battery regardless of whether the alt is computer controlled or not. I've came across this 4 times in my career. The first time took a minute...the last 3 took less than a minute. The chevy I found was at 72V.
Good finding and great approach and thought process thanks for sharing.
Wow what's going on with that Lamborghini Diablo in the back?
The alternator high output voltage suggested a broken sense wire from the beginning, but you never know. Why should the alternator even be able to put out 50+ volts in any case?
Love your diagnostic knowledge.
The engine ground cable. Many of these OE engine grounds disintegrate because they are incapable to handle up to 250 amps from modern alternators. When a bad engine ground exists the electrons travel thru the driveline causing all kinds of issues.
your vids are hilarious. All that diagnosis for the obv burnt fusible link? You fix the link then diagnose.
Like your old school load tester box. Just screw in more light bulbs for more load.
Test DON'T Guess👍💯👍💯👍💯...New Subscriber...keep the videos coming with your easy to understand explanations. Keep Up The Great Work
Yazmin...Venice Beach CA 🌊🏄♀️🏄♂️🌴🌴🌴😎😎😎
Thank you for sharing your experience, this channel is really informative
As a safety concern don’t let the two long strings get into any moving parts and brake your neck with the engine running!!!
I believe i would have replaced that broken power wire and then just kept an eye on the voltage and amperage at the battery before I wasted a bunch of time playing with the scope and over-complicating things
Great job thanks for your support and expertise
from Peru, nice video
what's function that broken cable ?
it's the battery cable between the alternator and the battery.
Great as always thanks for sharing your experience
Do vid on toyota p2445 even if trk isn't broke, can u show testing methods. 07 toyota tundra 4.7 v8
Had a similar situation when we replaced our station battery charger (125Vdc) wired up the charger, fired it up with no battery load and we were getting like 150Vdc.The rep for the charger was telling us there's no way, he checked himself. His install tech closed the isolation between the charger and the batteries. The charger voltage dropped down to about 130Vdc.
Honestly, I just skipped through the previous video on testing alternators and I might have missed any voltage drop testing in that video. In this video, a VD test would have found the burnt fusible link. Maybe the previous shop could have saved the customer a lot of money by doing a VD test on the recharge wire before it was totally burned, I am sure something would have shown up on the meter. Please include some VD testing if you do a newer LIN Alternator testing video, cheers.
It would be interesting to put the original ECM back to see if that was even a problem.
that is crazy! all that because of a broken battery cable. That could easily send some one down a crazy rabbit hole.
The car on the lift in the background 😂
Infinity
Nice sweater, where did you get it?
The battery link fuse wire looked more like the green gringies than melted by overload
great video ! thank you for sharing!!
Who got the nice looking cooler??
Nice Diagnosis .
Customers really don't appreciate what it takes for us to figure everything out.
It's mind blowing to everyone else but us..
Customer or another shop hung part's on it & this is what we call " someone else fuck up.
💥 BADA BING BADA BOOM 💥
I APPROVE THIS MESSAGE 🙌
Nj'sJfJr 👍🏼💪🏼❤️🇺🇸
That would be one great cooler in the back of my mobile mechanic truck🥳
That doesn't look burnt, it looks corroded and stressed, and then maybe when it was just a couple of strands, it got hot from overloading what is essentially a small wire at that point.
Great Job!!
Thanks for sharing!
A Snap-On cooler...bet that's inexpensive.
Hi what was the amperage when the voltage was high, usually when voltage goes up amperage goes down at least when cars had regulators just curious nice find and repair though
What "amperage"?! The main circuit was broken, there was no load. Only voltage was produced. Clearly stupid design (no "fail-safe" mode), pushing 100% PWM like crazy from the ECU or whatever controls the alternator.
Learn something new everyday Huh
At 14:30, there is nothing wrong with temporary connections for diagnostic purposes, anyone criticizing you on that is ignorant and envious of your ability.
That’s a positive wire. So why did you fuse it up
It's not any positive, it's the one that runs from the alternator to the battery, hence requires to be fused if the alternator overcharges whatsoever so to protect the vehicle circuitry
@@thesmartguy3523 Many brands/models don't have that wire fused, so it's not obligatory.
@@thesmartguy3523 a wire running from the alternator to the battery is what then. You need to learn circuit designs
2012 Caravan doesn't have fusible link alternator feed. Internal diode shorted out, took full current from battery, housing of alternator got hot enough it turned the housing and metal ID plate black. But the alternator-battery cable was fine.
Brilliant! 👏
Chrysler will over charge like that when there is a open on the battery post of alternator i had the issue years back
You are a awesome mechanic I'd love to learn more from u it be awesome to come work with you for a week
I would have recommended replacing that crap negative battery terminal as well.
Great video
Lamborghini in white on lift ??
I think it’s a Lotus actually.
You must be a good snap on customer for him to give that cooler to ya. Probably retails for 20 payments of 50 a week
good job!
My thought is the pcm didn't see voltage on the battery wire from battery so it was full fielding because low voltage
Stupid "designer" forgot to add fail-safe mode (pushing 100% PWM without voltage increase should be a huge red flag to the system).
You mail it👍🏻
👍