You are one of the few peyote who actually know how to fix things the right way! You actually understand the problem and use solutions that address the cause of the problem and not the symptom. Thank you!
The technique you used for the top molding piece is huge time saver. I just redid three springing doors in the house I just bought and Now I know that technique for the rest of them. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and helping all of us with your videos.
Even with all the new and fancy-produced How-to Videos all over RUclips, sometimes it's the one that's 15 years old that explains exactly what you're looking for at exactly the speed and complexity you need
Did it for 30 years and that is exactly the way to do a proper job. Banging the stops from the other side rarely works for long and marks the heck out of the stop as you said.
We have doors with this problem through our whole house. I had no idea I already own all the tools to fix this issue. Now with your guidance, I can see this problem out and finally fix out springy, cracking doors. You’re the man!, Donnie!
Thanks for the tip on fixing a sagging door by bending the hinges! Been a bother for several years after replacing an outdoor entrance door. Worked perfectly.
You Sir...are a legend. This is such a good video. You cover everything in clear detail and show everyone how simple a fix can be, once you understand what the problem is. I'd have a beer (English beer of course) with you Donnie - I reckon you're a good sort. Thank you.
Good sort or not, I watch so much BBC TV I my idea of heaven is in an English country village. On the other hand, I'm fascinated by the crude plank doors often seen in the most lavish homes. Thanks so much for the compliment and ... cheers!
What a great video. Who knew you could remove the door stop moulding from and interior door frame! I didn't until I saw this video. You're a life safer Donny! Thank you...
Sure, Ricardo Navarro. Only exterior doors are rabbeted out for security/safety reasons. Interior doors should all have removable stop molding. But care must be taken in the process. Otherwise, the paint accumulation can cause the molding to split or crack or simply break. Hope this comes in handy for you sometime.
Thank you so much! Calm , relaxed, detailed. You explained and demonstrated it perfectly. You have taught me so much, now I'm confident to continue my DIY repairs.
I had hired a "door specialty" firm to remove & replace 6 interior doors. Well I might as well had saved my money, 5 of them are "sprung". Thanks to your video I've learned how to fix it myself. Thanks!!!
This bears repeating. The instructions are clear and the video is very well edited. The cutaway shots of the different nails was a nice touch. Thanks for the help, Donny.
I am trying hang a second hand entry door and it's springing. You said we cant use this technique as its grooved out. Should I just chip away at it with a chisel ? (Also I love the putty knife to stop from denting the moulding! Great idea! thank you sir!
Not sure what is a "New England Square," but I'm glad the video helped. This is a process, not a quick trick. But it does solve a frequently encountered problem. Thanks for the comment.
This guy is a genius. I just got his ebook on fixing doors, it's a masterclass and only 8.95. I just printed it out and had it bound. I'm not sure about what is meant by "putty" when reattaching the trim and before painting oner the areas that got removed. Most putty that I find at Home Deport doesn't harden, like Minwax, for example. Is that what is meant by putty? Or can you make a specific brand recommendation?
Over the years I've favored Durham's Rock Hard . It's a water base putty and easy to apply cleanly. Unlike JB weld's or any other epoxy, it won't "go off" after a certain time. Min-Wax and Dap both make a wood putty. I believe Durham's is cheap, as well. Good luck.
@@donnydoors Thank you so much. I have the Durhams! Also, I looked at the door today and noticed it is sort of bowed a bit at the bottom as if it's warped slightly. The issue is that the door has to be pulled hard to shut. Thanks for this great channel and for putting all the time into your book. I hope I can fix this door!
@@chriscaldwellvoiceovers Me, too. Keep us posted. (Sometimes the old block plane is our only choice. (Unsealed exterior doors will warp and swell when hit by rain.When it's really dry, like in May or June, reseal the door. Any old paint will do.) Good luck.
@@donnydoors Thank you for the response. This is an interior (bedroom) door. I can see that the bottom 1/3 of it sort of bows outward. I'm amazed at how much work you put into your ebook. It's a masterclass and should be sold at Barnes and Noble, etc.
Yeah, I'm targeting my far-away grandkids with some of my latest. At least a few young folks are willing to forego reinventing the wheel. It's good to be appreciated.
Interesting suggestion. Getting older, though. Quality might drop. But maybe I finally make that self-standing door and jamb mock up I've thought about. Oh, and thanks for the compliment.
@rudoatlas Not all Europe has metal jambs, I think. But when it comes to metal jambs, pity there isn't some way to shift the hinge away from the where the door rubs. But dealing with threaded screws is a tricky business, especially when they must carry the weight of a door.
I have a heavy exterior door that had old rusted traditional hinges. Door worked fine. Replaced with heavy duty ball baring hinges, and first the door was hitting the frame, mainly at rhe top, but after some tweaking, I now have hinge binding (I think) as the door springs open to the interior and I cant even close far enough to check for gaps. Seems like zero gap on the hinge side. Do I remove all the hinges, maybe use a shim under the top hinge? Or chisel out more depth for the hinge. Oddly so, both old and new hinges were 4" square and same thickness, and fit the old hinge cutout perfectly. So we are baffled. We have flipped the hinges from different spots, 1, 2, and 3. Have flipped so the 3 side is both on frame and on door, and even tried longer screws #10s, shorter screws #8 and are two nights in to barricading the non-closing door at night. Fresh eyes and 50 you tubes later, we are at our witt's end. HELP!! (Again, NEW hinges, now marked up cannot be returned, and are Ball bearing hinges vs traditional with pins. Is there some secret way to adjust ball bearing hinges???
I hate it when inert objects don't act like inert objects. Changing out the hinges should have solved the problem. One drastic option would be a new, lighter door. Please remember I don't take any responsibility for my suggestions. Can you dap (mortise) the hinges in a sixteenth further. If that fails, you can always shim the hinges back in their original position. Even so, a new lighter door is in order, I'd say. Look up a professional door distributor. Hire one of their tried and true installers and replace that antique. If you have to save up to do this, I hope there's a second door to the room. There may be something in the book you can use. GOOD LUCK!
On movie set doors, both sides of the hinges are "dapped" into the door so the swing can be easily changed, as well as swapping out a different door. Because of this, one needs merely block up the door, screw in the hinges, shut the door and use the shims to install the stop molding. Point is, those same shims work just as well on a real, live door.
@michaelvargo80 I would think the section of the video that discusses an exterior jamb would cover that possibility. As a Californian, I'm unfamiliar with a split jamb. Perhaps you might enlighten me.
Excellent information although the door i'm fighting happens to be my front door! Door is pushing against the latch and jumps free the moment someone turns the handle. What can be done about that?
There should be solutions in the book. Adjusting the position of the strike plate is one approach; There is no stop molding since the channel for the door is mortised out of the jamb frame. But you can check the weather strip. If the door is cramming against it, it's not such an easy fix since the weather strip is secured to the jamb. Replacing the weather strip with a newer, thinner strip. But let me stop here to warn you that if you take any of my device, you do so at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for the results of following my suggestions. Furthermore, if you are going to mess with the weather striping in your front door. perhaps you should contact a professional. All that being said, I'm inclined to put my money on the weather strip. Good luck.
@@donnydoors Would moving out my hinges ⅛" from their mortise help at all? Or is the compression of the door against the weather stripping too critical?
@@johnabney1921 you may not need a full 1/8" to solve the problem. It's certainly worth a try. But if water comes in next winter, you might add a second strip in the problem areas. To move your hinge: open the door and block it securely. Unscrew the problem hinge and flip it out of the way. Stick wooden match sticks into the old holes and break off burn head so that it's flush with the mortise. Then with a scratch awl poke new holes beside the old ones. Flip the hinge leaf back into its mortise. Adjust the leaf so that the hinge holes align with the newly awled holes and reinstall the screws. And remember, I'm not liable for anything that might go wrong if you follow my suggestion., Good Luck.,
Oh, John. If your front door has only 2 hinges, then you'd best have someone hold the door upright as well as block it at the bottom. If you have a weather proof strip at the bottom, be careful with your blocks/wedges. Be cautioius.
@@johnabney1921Such a move may only cause the door to rotate slightly, but still keep pressure on the weather strip. Moving the strike plate can solve a number of problems. There's a whole section on hinge moves in the book. As for me, I'm beginning o get confused. Best of luck.
We use on all doors metal door casing in europe, so when this problem appear, The only way is to take a belt sander and sand the inner door edge or buy new one. :-)
I believe there are suggestions in the book. However what comes first to mind is to move the offending hinge a small increment away from the mortise "stop." Drop or block the door open and out of the way . Remove the screws from the hinge half on the jamb. Fill the original holes with match sticks or ?? Use an awl to open a new hole on the outside of the originals. Reinstall the door. Good luck.
Hi Donny- My problem is with a bedroom door that will not close and I have removed the stops as shown in this video. the door still doesn't stay closed. I guess it has to be with the hinges. What are your suggestions to diagnose the source of this problem? These doors are super heavy as they are original Victorian interior doors. I hope you are still monitoring comments as your videos are compatible with my skill level. Regards- judy
My first guess is that the wood on the door has swollen around the hings, so they need to be shimmed. However, though I occasionally impart advice on this site, my videos are supposed to be teaser commercials for my book. It's available on the site mentioned in the movies but can't be mentioned here. It will guide you step-by-step in solving your problem. P.S. Don't shim any hinges until you know there's sufficient space on the latch side. Good luck.
I hate to be a grinch, but my channel is for folks to view the solutions for the problems presented. Advice on other types of problems isn't offered. Even the book won't help. But I will say this, "The standard medicine cabinet is easy to install and easy to remove. Cut that caulk all around, and turn out the screws you see, usually on the sides. Buy a new one, put it in the hole and after a couple of pilot holes, screw in the screws. Caulk the edges and you're in business." Good luck.
What about a door that is out of square? I have a bathroom door that, when closed is flush at bottom and sticks out at the top of the door jam. Door Jam is level. Hinges are in proper spots. Door is actually "sprung" or "warped." Any help???
+Smith brosjr There are several approaches to this that are covered in the book: move the stop mold and perhaps the latch to bring the door in; move the top hinge inward on the jamb. But the warp in the door itself is permanent, only to be cured by the dreaded new door. Got a beta, but unillustrated, book on the process. Contact me through my website.
Move the hinge halves attached to the jamb. Pull the pins, drop the door, then move the hinge halves away from the molding. How to do that is in the book, but here's a quick summation. Remove the hinge halves from the jamb, set aside. Fill all the old screw holes with match sticks or tooth picks. Take up an awl and drive the point in the jamb beside each filled screw hole. Twist and remove until all the holes have been "moved" a smidgen away from the "molding." Re install/screw in the hinge halves. Re-hang the door. (It's important to declare that I take no responsibility for the results of your heeding my repair advise. If you apply my suggestions, you do so of your own accord.) Good luck.
I'd have to figure how to mount them. However, converting to mm and cm is easy on the net. You google it and there's a converter awaiting you. Funny how we in the US are so out of touch with the rest of the world.
Sure, I know that, friend. But surely you americans also know that YOU are the minority when it comes to measurement. And the lack of meters and centimeters in your videos may cause others to dislike your work. Or leave nasty comments. That would be a shame, right? So I am saying this politely to you so that you can avoid this kind of trouble. I am sure you are working hard and take your work in your videos seriously. And all you RUclipsrs would like to acchieve as many likes and subscribers as possible. Some of you even make a living out of it. And then it would be a nice move to include the rest of the world.
@@donnydoors You use it to add pop while adding information to the story. I work in news and you would be a great editor/story producer. Saw that you worked in film and that makes perfect sense. Thanks, I look forward to applying your advice to my doors as soon as I'm done painting my trim
That close up of your head at 1:18 scared the living F out of me, don’t do that man or I’ll have to report you, good video though….oh and another thing, get a hair cut !!!
Thanks for the great video, I liked it. You have a belly too big to bend easily, a little bit workout, American line dance or Argentine tango, plus diet control will hep.
You are one of the few peyote who actually know how to fix things the right way! You actually understand the problem and use solutions that address the cause of the problem and not the symptom. Thank you!
You're welcome; thanks for the classy compliment. Spread the word; check out the book. All doors should open and close.
The technique you used for the top molding piece is huge time saver. I just redid three springing doors in the house I just bought and Now I know that technique for the rest of them.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and helping all of us with your videos.
I'm truly glad to have helped out. When in doubt, pull the entire piece and reinstall so that the door snugs just when the latch slips in. :)
It's about 11PM. I'm watching incredible honest guy who fix doors. There are good people on this planet.
Nice of you to say so, now it's time to go to bed.
Even with all the new and fancy-produced How-to Videos all over RUclips, sometimes it's the one that's 15 years old that explains exactly what you're looking for at exactly the speed and complexity you need
Cool. May you remember it always and use it when the opportunity arrives.
Did it for 30 years and that is exactly the way to do a proper job. Banging the stops from the other side rarely works for long and marks the heck out of the stop as you said.
Thanks for backing me up. Gotta do one on moving the strike plate some day soon.
We have doors with this problem through our whole house. I had no idea I already own all the tools to fix this issue. Now with your guidance, I can see this problem out and finally fix out springy, cracking doors. You’re the man!, Donnie!
Thanks so much for the compliment. Let me know if it all goes smoothly.
Thanks for the tip on fixing a sagging door by bending the hinges! Been a bother for several years after replacing an outdoor entrance door. Worked perfectly.
Terrific. Enjoy. :-)
Thanks for being so detail oriented, it helps.
I don't need to watch door videos every day but when I have a door problem I need to watch these videos.
Thank you, Jason. You've prodded me into realizing that I must make another door oriented video some time soon. Be safe.
Fantastic videos! Especially liked the tip for fixing a sticking door. I would have never thought of tweaking the hinge knuckles. Thank you!
You Sir...are a legend. This is such a good video. You cover everything in clear detail and show everyone how simple a fix can be, once you understand what the problem is. I'd have a beer (English beer of course) with you Donnie - I reckon you're a good sort. Thank you.
Good sort or not, I watch so much BBC TV I my idea of heaven is in an English country village. On the other hand, I'm fascinated by the crude plank doors often seen in the most lavish homes. Thanks so much for the compliment and ... cheers!
What a great video. Who knew you could remove the door stop moulding from and interior door frame! I didn't until I saw this video. You're a life safer Donny! Thank you...
Sure, Ricardo Navarro. Only exterior doors are rabbeted out for security/safety reasons. Interior doors should all have removable stop molding. But care must be taken in the process. Otherwise, the paint accumulation can cause the molding to split or crack or simply break. Hope this comes in handy for you sometime.
Thank you so much! Calm , relaxed, detailed. You explained and demonstrated it perfectly. You have taught me so much, now I'm confident to continue my DIY repairs.
Gracious, Tracey, such a positive review. Thanks so much. Now I have to find the time to add more to my channel.
@@donnydoors I would appreciate that so much! Wishing you good health and a wonderful summer x
@@traceysaxon443 It takes me awhile, but I'll use your note as my inspiration.
This guy is a boss! Super valuable tips. Thanks.
I really enjoy your videos. You go right to the point with clear instructions and visuals.
Thanks, Sir Reel!
I had hired a "door specialty" firm to remove & replace 6 interior doors. Well I might as well had saved my money, 5 of them are "sprung". Thanks to your video I've learned how to fix it myself. Thanks!!!
Wow, that's astonishing! Share the trick where you can and have a wonderful 2020.
A really excellent video, superbly presented. Thank you, Donnie.
This bears repeating. The instructions are clear and the video is very well edited. The cutaway shots of the different nails was a nice touch. Thanks for the help, Donny.
Before watching this video I did try the block method , it did not work, haha. This method did. 9 years later and still helping. Thanks!
You're more than welcome. Simple things can be magic. And there are a few more good tricks in the book.
I did exactly what you demonstrated (with the help of my dad's tools) and it worked like a charm! Thanks much!
Too cool! You're most welcome.
I had to replace 4x old doors in my place and ended up with 2 doors being like this. Thanks to this man I got job done.
I'm certainly glad of that, my friend. Enjoy and spread the word,.
@@donnydoors Yer... I should have put Cardboard Packers between Door and Door trim when fitting doors
@@byLokie Maybe so. Depends on the relationship of door to jamb. I hope it's all okay now.
@@donnydoors Yeah Mate. It's all good
@@byLokie Are you by chance Australian?
I used this tutorial today!! Thank you!!
You're completely welcome. As long as you have removable stop mold, you're all right.
Fantastic information grampa
Now I know what I need to do in situations like that 👍🏼
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks for the detailed video and tricks of the trade!
Great work Donny
Thanks for the compliment. Perhaps you can make use of the info some day.
Thanks for explaining just how easy that was to deal with.
Not a slam dunk, but a relatively easy process to perform. You're welcome.
Never thought I'd learn how to fix my doors from Benjamin Franklin. ;)
+dallmine Aw, and I so would rather be Bernie Sanders.
I like Donnie and his fixes....Get`really Done Donnie....great job...
Thanks so much, this is so helpful!
I've you've fixed the problem, I'm a happy camper.
I am trying hang a second hand entry door and it's springing. You said we cant use this technique as its grooved out. Should I just chip away at it with a chisel ? (Also I love the putty knife to stop from denting the moulding! Great idea! thank you sir!
Athank you sir for nvideo, I enjoyed and learned a lot from you. Plz keep it going.
I'll do my best.
This helps a lot. I had to install security hinges, and I used a New Emgland square.
Not sure what is a "New England Square," but I'm glad the video helped. This is a process, not a quick trick. But it does solve a frequently encountered problem. Thanks for the comment.
This guy is a genius. I just got his ebook on fixing doors, it's a masterclass and only 8.95. I just printed it out and had it bound. I'm not sure about what is meant by "putty" when reattaching the trim and before painting oner the areas that got removed. Most putty that I find at Home Deport doesn't harden, like Minwax, for example. Is that what is meant by putty? Or can you make a specific brand recommendation?
Over the years I've favored Durham's Rock Hard . It's a water base putty and easy to apply cleanly. Unlike JB weld's or any other epoxy, it won't "go off" after a certain time. Min-Wax and Dap both make a wood putty. I believe Durham's is cheap, as well. Good luck.
@@donnydoors Thank you so much. I have the Durhams! Also, I looked at the door today and noticed it is sort of bowed a bit at the bottom as if it's warped slightly. The issue is that the door has to be pulled hard to shut. Thanks for this great channel and for putting all the time into your book. I hope I can fix this door!
@@chriscaldwellvoiceovers Me, too. Keep us posted. (Sometimes the old block plane is our only choice. (Unsealed exterior doors will warp and swell when hit by rain.When it's really dry, like in May or June, reseal the door. Any old paint will do.) Good luck.
@@donnydoors Thank you for the response. This is an interior (bedroom) door. I can see that the bottom 1/3 of it sort of bows outward. I'm amazed at how much work you put into your ebook. It's a masterclass and should be sold at Barnes and Noble, etc.
@@chriscaldwellvoiceovers Such a compliment, Chris. What I should do is work on a print edition. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thank you!!! I could not figure out why my door was springy. Thought it was the hinges.
Glad to have been of service. Share the knowledge. And for more, maybe check out the book.
Super helpful. Thank you.
You're most welcome. Here's hoping the stop mold came off easily.
So, was you able to fix that door ?
9:40
You are the Man !
Very good video. Thank you.
I'm glad. Hope you can make use of it.
THis is what Youtbe is all about- learning from old-time pros who share their wisdom to the younger generation who haven't yet acquired theirs.
Yeah, I'm targeting my far-away grandkids with some of my latest. At least a few young folks are willing to forego reinventing the wheel. It's good to be appreciated.
Your videos are great. I think you should move your e-book to a video series. I'd buy the videos.
Interesting suggestion. Getting older, though. Quality might drop. But maybe I finally make that self-standing door and jamb mock up I've thought about. Oh, and thanks for the compliment.
The shim piece was brilliant.
Super explanation is given. Thanks
When you hang a door, you simply do the process in revere. Thanks or the comment.
Your videos are very helpful. Have a Merry Christmas.
I hope the most recent are fun as well. Thanks so much for the compliment. And Merry Christmas, plus Happy New Year, to you.
Very knowledgeable man. Thanks for sharing this.
You're more than welcome. The simple fact that the stop molding is not part of the jamb is a revelation to some.
Big thank you!
@rudoatlas Not all Europe has metal jambs, I think. But when it comes to metal jambs, pity there isn't some way to shift the hinge away from the where the door rubs. But dealing with threaded screws is a tricky business, especially when they must carry the weight of a door.
You are the MAN ,thank you!
At my age, I don't mind being "the boy" as long as it worked for you. Enjoy.
Thank you , sir !
I have a heavy exterior door that had old rusted traditional hinges. Door worked fine. Replaced with heavy duty ball baring hinges, and first the door was hitting the frame, mainly at rhe top, but after some tweaking, I now have hinge binding (I think) as the door springs open to the interior and I cant even close far enough to check for gaps. Seems like zero gap on the hinge side. Do I remove all the hinges, maybe use a shim under the top hinge? Or chisel out more depth for the hinge. Oddly so, both old and new hinges were 4" square and same thickness, and fit the old hinge cutout perfectly. So we are baffled. We have flipped the hinges from different spots, 1, 2, and 3. Have flipped so the 3 side is both on frame and on door, and even tried longer screws #10s, shorter screws #8 and are two nights in to barricading the non-closing door at night. Fresh eyes and 50 you tubes later, we are at our witt's end. HELP!!
(Again, NEW hinges, now marked up cannot be returned, and are Ball bearing hinges vs traditional with pins. Is there some secret way to adjust ball bearing hinges???
I hate it when inert objects don't act like inert objects. Changing out the hinges should have solved the problem. One drastic option would be a new, lighter door. Please remember I don't take any responsibility for my suggestions. Can you dap (mortise) the hinges in a sixteenth further. If that fails, you can always shim the hinges back in their original position.
Even so, a new lighter door is in order, I'd say. Look up a professional door distributor. Hire one of their tried and true installers and replace that antique. If you have to save up to do this, I hope there's a second door to the room. There may be something in the book you can use.
GOOD LUCK!
sometimes i wonder how to take stuff apart without breaking it when there's no srews or nail holes ,also good idea with the cardboard shims.
On movie set doors, both sides of the hinges are "dapped" into the door so the swing can be easily changed, as well as swapping out a different door. Because of this, one needs merely block up the door, screw in the hinges, shut the door and use the shims to install the stop molding. Point is, those same shims work just as well on a real, live door.
@@donnydoors thanks donny!
Great video. Glad I found this!
I'm glad, too. Did it work for you? If so, share the knowledge.
@@donnydoors I don't currently have this problem, but now I'll know what to do if this happens!
@@beotheguitarist That makes your appreciation of the video all the more worthwhile. Thanks.
Excellent
@michaelvargo80
I would think the section of the video that discusses an exterior jamb would cover that possibility. As a Californian, I'm unfamiliar with a split jamb. Perhaps you might enlighten me.
Excellent information although the door i'm fighting happens to be my front door! Door is pushing against the latch and jumps free the moment someone turns the handle. What can be done about that?
There should be solutions in the book. Adjusting the position of the strike plate is one approach; There is no stop molding since the channel for the door is mortised out of the jamb frame. But you can check the weather strip. If the door is cramming against it, it's not such an easy fix since the weather strip is secured to the jamb. Replacing the weather strip with a newer, thinner strip. But let me stop here to warn you that if you take any of my device, you do so at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for the results of following my suggestions. Furthermore, if you are going to mess with the weather striping in your front door. perhaps you should contact a professional. All that being said, I'm inclined to put my money on the weather strip. Good luck.
@@donnydoors Would moving out my hinges ⅛" from their mortise help at all? Or is the compression of the door against the weather stripping too critical?
@@johnabney1921 you may not need a full 1/8" to solve the problem. It's certainly worth a try. But if water comes in next winter, you might add a second strip in the problem areas.
To move your hinge: open the door and block it securely. Unscrew the problem hinge and flip it out of the way. Stick wooden match sticks into the old holes and break off burn head so that it's flush with the mortise. Then with a scratch awl poke new holes beside the old ones. Flip the hinge leaf back into its mortise. Adjust the leaf so that the hinge holes align with the newly awled holes and reinstall the screws. And remember, I'm not liable for anything that might go wrong if you follow my suggestion., Good Luck.,
Oh, John. If your front door has only 2 hinges, then you'd best have someone hold the door upright as well as block it at the bottom. If you have a weather proof strip at the bottom, be careful with your blocks/wedges. Be cautioius.
@@johnabney1921Such a move may only cause the door to rotate slightly, but still keep pressure on the weather strip. Moving the strike plate can solve a number of problems. There's a whole section on hinge moves in the book. As for me, I'm beginning o get confused. Best of luck.
What can I do for a door that is springing and has no door stop installed yet.
Not the problem. Do not have any mouldings on.
Good workman's ship
The trick or the video. Well, thanks either way. Hope it worked for you as well.
We use on all doors metal door casing in europe, so when this problem appear, The only way is to take a belt sander and sand the inner door edge or buy new one. :-)
What do you suggest for an exterior door, where you can’t remove the moulding?
I believe there are suggestions in the book. However what comes first to mind is to move the offending hinge a small increment away from the mortise "stop." Drop or block the door open and out of the way . Remove the screws from the hinge half on the jamb. Fill the original holes with match sticks or ?? Use an awl to open a new hole on the outside of the originals. Reinstall the door. Good luck.
Hi Donny- My problem is with a bedroom door that will not close and I have removed the stops as shown in this video. the door still doesn't stay closed. I guess it has to be with the hinges. What are your suggestions to diagnose the source of this problem? These doors are super heavy as they are original Victorian interior doors. I hope you are still monitoring comments as your videos are compatible with my skill level. Regards- judy
My first guess is that the wood on the door has swollen around the hings, so they need to be shimmed. However, though I occasionally impart advice on this site, my videos are supposed to be teaser commercials for my book. It's available on the site mentioned in the movies but can't be mentioned here. It will guide you step-by-step in solving your problem. P.S. Don't shim any hinges until you know there's sufficient space on the latch side. Good luck.
Thanks
Welcome
I have spring doors on my medicine cabinet with the opposite problem! They no longer "pop" open! How do I fix that? Thank you!
I hate to be a grinch, but my channel is for folks to view the solutions for the problems presented. Advice on other types of problems isn't offered. Even the book won't help. But I will say this, "The standard medicine cabinet is easy to install and easy to remove. Cut that caulk all around, and turn out the screws you see, usually on the sides. Buy a new one, put it in the hole and after a couple of pilot holes, screw in the screws. Caulk the edges and you're in business." Good luck.
@@donnydoors Thank you!
@@susankaplan7654 :-)
What about a door that is out of square? I have a bathroom door that, when closed is flush at bottom and sticks out at the top of the door jam. Door Jam is level. Hinges are in proper spots. Door is actually "sprung" or "warped." Any help???
+Smith brosjr There are several approaches to this that are covered in the book: move the stop mold and perhaps the latch to bring the door in; move the top hinge inward on the jamb. But the warp in the door itself is permanent, only to be cured by the dreaded new door. Got a beta, but unillustrated, book on the process. Contact me through my website.
That's the problem I'm having, but I can't take the molding off..because the door frame is all one piece.. 🤔
Move the hinge halves attached to the jamb. Pull the pins, drop the door, then move the hinge halves away from the molding. How to do that is in the book, but here's a quick summation. Remove the hinge halves from the jamb, set aside. Fill all the old screw holes with match sticks or tooth picks. Take up an awl and drive the point in the jamb beside each filled screw hole. Twist and remove until all the holes have been "moved" a smidgen away from the "molding." Re install/screw in the hinge halves. Re-hang the door. (It's important to declare that I take no responsibility for the results of your heeding my repair advise. If you apply my suggestions, you do so of your own accord.) Good luck.
Random comment for the RUclips algorithm.
Could you add meters to your videos? So that us from the rest of the world can follow?
I'd have to figure how to mount them. However, converting to mm and cm is easy on the net. You google it and there's a converter awaiting you. Funny how we in the US are so out of touch with the rest of the world.
Sure, I know that, friend. But surely you americans also know that YOU are the minority when it comes to measurement. And the lack of meters and centimeters in your videos may cause others to dislike your work. Or leave nasty comments. That would be a shame, right? So I am saying this politely to you so that you can avoid this kind of trouble.
I am sure you are working hard and take your work in your videos seriously. And all you RUclipsrs would like to acchieve as many likes and subscribers as possible. Some of you even make a living out of it. And then it would be a nice move to include the rest of the world.
This guy has nat sound down pat
I do? How's that?
@@donnydoors You use it to add pop while adding information to the story. I work in news and you would be a great editor/story producer. Saw that you worked in film and that makes perfect sense. Thanks, I look forward to applying your advice to my doors as soon as I'm done painting my trim
@@JeffSayYes Thanks for the compliment. Good luck with your doors.
Don, were you ever a member of AMUUSE?
Nope.
👍👍👍👍👍
I hope that means the process worked. Enjoy the success.
That close up of your head at 1:18 scared the living F out of me, don’t do that man or I’ll have to report you, good video though….oh and another thing, get a hair cut !!!
"God is in his holy temple..." - Rev Henry Kane. but with more hair
Thanks for the great video, I liked it.
You have a belly too big to bend easily, a little bit workout, American line dance or Argentine tango, plus diet control will hep.
Went vegan a few years ago. More of an aging skeleton these days. Check the Hackamore knot video, and another on the way.
Wtf is wrong with the back of his hair?...forget the door....get your hair sorted!