Just want to thank you for this. I had to improvise the shims with cut down zip ties and double stick tape, but they worked perfectly to push/pull my garage access door into alignment - with your suggestions about shim placement and screw sequence. You Tube at its very best.
This is the best on the web, proper and logical that people need to understand to deal with doors installation and adjustment. I have spent many, many days Do-It-Myself on the 7 Jeld Wen hollow core interior doors from Home Depot, have had a hard time to adjust the upper door gaps, and have developed some concepts of what You are talking about here but so far stuck (for weeks, should I admit). I have been thinking of modifying the hinges slots and somehow shim them like you described here but have not been sure. Coming across your video finally just now and I realise that I actually do not to modify the slots (mortises) but just do exactly what You show here. Good thing I doubted and did not follow the other suggestions on all the hinge benders tools on the web which I think would destroy my doors or jambs in first place. Thank you much and you have a good day.
I used a sliver of wood for the shim. Mine was scrapping at the bottom under the lock. I shimmed the top hinge (jam side) on the side furthest from the barrel. WORKED like a champ! Thanks for the video.
I have the same issue. Shimmed the same area as you did with two pennies. The door didn't move any and the gap is still the same and the door is scraping the threshold so much I had to remove it.
A friend and fellow carpenter showed me this about 20 years ago. Been using this method ever since on interior doors. I use heavy / dense cardboard shims I make and use CA to hold them in place so they'll stay in place if the painters remove the door. Never knew you could buy them. Thanks!
Thanks a lot man really helped, was so frustrated trying to figure this out and I tried it once and was spot on didnt have to do anything else (perfect fit). My problem was at the 1:26 mark and doing that with small shim in hinge and screwing as explained was perfect. Thanks so much great video;)
Clear simple video. Watch it again if you don't understand and pause where needed. Look at where the redish pink area is on the hinge. Those areas are where you put the shims. Either close, or away from the barrel.
Those shims are called "Ready-Shims" How I wrote it down to remember: PUSH LEFT, PULL RIGHT. OPPOSITE SCREWS FIRST. (Shim placement location in relation to the hinge barrel) To push the door away from the hinge, put it on the left closest to the barrel. To pull the door towards the hinge, put it on the right farthest from the barrel.
Thank You Sir, my grandfather showed me this trick when I was about 12 years old and I for the life of me couldn't remember if it was on the door or the jam. Cheers
On the door I'm doing the top part is hitting the door frame so I needed to go in toward the hinge I tried this with the shims but it still didn't quite do it the screws are very small on commercial should I use longer screws?
thanks. this worked. although it took me an hour. I didn't have the shims and couldn't wait, so I used old credit cards cut lengthwise in 3rds and taped together. Had to shim both the top hinge away from barrel and bottom hinge next to barrel to achieve result.
Where can you find shims like you're using? Looking at the local hardware stores and at the big box stores, as well as the internet I only see the kind that you describe as full size.
This is very useful as a tutorial and I have a suggestion for a clarification. It is not completely clear if / when you are suggesting shimming under the hinge plate attached to the door as opposed to the hinge plate attached to the frame. Hypothetically shimming away from the barrel would be much more effective on the door plate, and shimming up against the barrel would (probably) work just as well either way. What is your guidance on this? Thanks for a useful video; I solved my year-old front door problem in a few short minutes.
Where do I find these shims? I bought plastic ones at Home Depot. I thought I installed them correctly but still have a gab on the handle side. Could this be due to the actual door frame? Should I look into redoing the frame and then see if the door needs these shims?
Very helpful video. How thick are these shims or do you test different thickness of shim. How long is the shim have to be? The whole length of the hinge. Do you ever put shims on the hinge attached to the door?
I completed the shimming but the door is a bit harder to close now. it wants to stop closing about 1" away from the frame. I had to move my door towards the hinges because my latch was too close to the frame and was catching the frame. I think its because with the shims installed away from the barrel, there's a few degrees of camber introduced. I may be flexing the door actually in order to make it meet the latch..
Can this be used to also raise a door? I have a set of double doors of a home I just bought. One door is lower then the other, so the lock doesn’t fit into the gap. I need to figure out how to raise that door so I can keep this door closed.
Very helpful - I have an issue - my door is perfectly square but the top right (open side) is 1/4" away from it being closed were the bottom is perfect. I've used my square on both side and it's smack on center. Would I shim the top jam to pull that 1/4" in so the door could shut? Thank you
Sometimes you'll see people use cardboard, but that will break down over a year or two. We used to use a couple dime / penny / nickles as shims. Works pretty well, variable size as needed, will never break down, and you can't beat the price. ;)
I feel certain you have already completed this repair but FWIW, condensed cardboard is best. Example would be, cardboard from a 12 pack of your favorite beverage. And you could use a flat tooth pick as long as you needed that much adjustment.
I'm installing my first door and I'm having a heck of a time getting everything aligned correctly. I still haven't secured the door jamb yet, so I would prefer to use shims between the jamb and the stub instead of under the hinges. Where would I shim to pull the entire door toward the hinge side of the jamb? Currently, the door will not close because it overlaps with the jamb (but evenly down the entire door).
Hi there, I have a steel door similar to the one in the video, it has dropped on the lock side, so rubbs on the bottom door jam, my hinges on door frame are concealed by sheet metal, question I have is can you pack out the bottom hinge on the door itself to raise it ? as I can't access the hinge against the door jam. Regards Mario ( Australia )
Didn't work for me. I have a steel door that hangs low on the lock side and scrapes against the threshold. So much so I've had to remove the threshold. I first tried longer screws... 4x 3 inch screws into the top hinge and into the 2x4. I then tried placing two pennies in the mortise...farthest side from the barrel. Tightened the opposite screws first and then the last two. Closed the door and still have the same gap at the top and scraping bottom. Gap at top hinge side is 7/16 while the gap at the lock side is 3/8.
I have the same issue. I have pre-installed plastic shims under all 4 hinges. I played around with removing the top 2 shims / doubling it on one side or both sides of the hinges / etc... The door is always sagging the same way. Did you find any solution?
sassy_sasarai : I cut two pieces from a large plastic cable tie and it worked great. $0 cost. I used clear tape to hold it in place under the frame hinge (located as shown) and tighten in the sequence shown in the video, furthest screws from the shim first. My door was sagging by a quarter inch and the dead bolt wouldn't enter the strike plate. Now it is level again and it locks right without lifting the door. Yea!
You calling both the top side and the right side of the door the "lock side" makes your explanation confusing. Also, if you want to decrease the gap on top of the door, then you're supposed to shim the bottom hinge, not the top hinge.
You went pretty FAST and shim placement was not clear. You should have said, at the beginning, that the shims you refer to are only ‘1/4” wide and not tapered along length’ this I have me never seen before. 1/4” wide shims that are not tapered?!? Wow! Say that at beginning. Thanks
You just solved an all day door alignment nightmare. Great video
Just want to thank you for this. I had to improvise the shims with cut down zip ties and double stick tape, but they worked perfectly to push/pull my garage access door into alignment - with your suggestions about shim placement and screw sequence. You Tube at its very best.
A life saver. Thank you. I was going out of my mind trying to get even gaps/reveals.
This is the best on the web, proper and logical that people need to understand to deal with doors installation and adjustment. I have spent many, many days Do-It-Myself on the 7 Jeld Wen hollow core interior doors from Home Depot, have had a hard time to adjust the upper door gaps, and have developed some concepts of what You are talking about here but so far stuck (for weeks, should I admit). I have been thinking of modifying the hinges slots and somehow shim them like you described here but have not been sure.
Coming across your video finally just now and I realise that I actually do not to modify the slots (mortises) but just do exactly what You show here. Good thing I doubted and did not follow the other suggestions on all the hinge benders tools on the web which I think would destroy my doors or jambs in first place.
Thank you much and you have a good day.
Best basic and straightforward video on this that I've seen. Good job sir! Thank you
I used a sliver of wood for the shim. Mine was scrapping at the bottom under the lock. I shimmed the top hinge (jam side) on the side furthest from the barrel. WORKED like a champ! Thanks for the video.
I have the same issue. Shimmed the same area as you did with two pennies. The door didn't move any and the gap is still the same and the door is scraping the threshold so much I had to remove it.
This was VERY educational, excellent video. I never realized that you could add a shim away from the hinge barrel to pull in the door. Thanks so much.
Thank you. Your explanation is brilliant. Your post saved us from replacing our door!
A friend and fellow carpenter showed me this about 20 years ago. Been using this method ever since on interior doors. I use heavy / dense cardboard shims I make and use CA to hold them in place so they'll stay in place if the painters remove the door. Never knew you could buy them. Thanks!
CA?
@@PhilipJFry-qh2jg Sorry, CA glue (Cyanoacrylate Glue) same as super glue
@T.E. thanks. I tried heavy cardboard with wood glue and it worked pretty well
@@PhilipJFry-qh2jg You're welcome. Glad it worked!
Thanks a lot man really helped, was so frustrated trying to figure this out and I tried it once and was spot on didnt have to do anything else (perfect fit). My problem was at the 1:26 mark and doing that with small shim in hinge and screwing as explained was perfect. Thanks so much great video;)
Thanks to you, along with an old Safeway customer card, some tape, scissors and luck....I got my closet door fixed!
Thanks, very helpful explanation. Fixed my sticky door easily with these instructions. Excellent!
Clear simple video. Watch it again if you don't understand and pause where needed. Look at where the redish pink area is on the hinge. Those areas are where you put the shims. Either close, or away from the barrel.
Excellent video, showed me exactly what I needed.
Those shims are called "Ready-Shims"
How I wrote it down to remember:
PUSH LEFT, PULL RIGHT.
OPPOSITE SCREWS FIRST.
(Shim placement location in relation to the hinge barrel) To push the door away from the hinge, put it on the left closest to the barrel. To pull the door towards the hinge, put it on the right farthest from the barrel.
Thank You Sir, my grandfather showed me this trick when I was about 12 years old and I for the life of me couldn't remember if it was on the door or the jam. Cheers
Great explanation, much appreciated solved the problem on my double front doors sagging.
Perfect video that i was looking for. Thank you!
Does adding a shim lead to a tilt in the hinge? So the screw is sticking up, no longer flush with the hinge plate?
On the door I'm doing the top part is hitting the door frame so I needed to go in toward the hinge I tried this with the shims but it still didn't quite do it the screws are very small on commercial should I use longer screws?
thanks. this worked. although it took me an hour. I didn't have the shims and couldn't wait, so I used old credit cards cut lengthwise in 3rds and taped together. Had to shim both the top hinge away from barrel and bottom hinge next to barrel to achieve result.
Awesome, Awesome, Awesome. Thanks for making this so easy. Worked like a charm. Thanks!!!
Thanks
Can you tell me where to get these shims for part of the door hinge ? Does it work better than full door shim under the hinge ? Thanks.
Where can you find shims like you're using? Looking at the local hardware stores and at the big box stores, as well as the internet I only see the kind that you describe as full size.
I wanted to know the same
This is very useful as a tutorial and I have a suggestion for a clarification. It is not completely clear if / when you are suggesting shimming under the hinge plate attached to the door as opposed to the hinge plate attached to the frame. Hypothetically shimming away from the barrel would be much more effective on the door plate, and shimming up against the barrel would (probably) work just as well either way. What is your guidance on this? Thanks for a useful video; I solved my year-old front door problem in a few short minutes.
Where do I find these shims? I bought plastic ones at Home Depot. I thought I installed them correctly but still have a gab on the handle side. Could this be due to the actual door frame? Should I look into redoing the frame and then see if the door needs these shims?
Will this work if i have a big enough gap on the lock side that I can feel air coming through?
Thank you for the instructional video . . . very well explained and most useful!
I won't to know where this guy got the shims shown in the video? Can't seem to find anything like it anywhere 😕
Ready-shims
Very helpful video. How thick are these shims or do you test different thickness of shim. How long is the shim have to be? The whole length of the hinge. Do you ever put shims on the hinge attached to the door?
I completed the shimming but the door is a bit harder to close now. it wants to stop closing about 1" away from the frame. I had to move my door towards the hinges because my latch was too close to the frame and was catching the frame. I think its because with the shims installed away from the barrel, there's a few degrees of camber introduced. I may be flexing the door actually in order to make it meet the latch..
Super helpful thank you!
Awesome video! Do you need to shim a door with Bommer self closing hinges?
thank you. trying to adjust a sagging door and was out of ideas. this helped a ton.
I was way too distracted by the SARG on the guys wrist. Thank you for this guide!
Very helpful video. Thank you very much. I can cut a zip tie for my purpose.
GREAT VIDEO!!! Thanks and keep up the good work!
do you do this if turning the knuckles of door hinge doesn't work ?
Can you post a link to the shims?
They are called READY SHIMS and you can get them online at shop. JustDoorToolz.com
Ready-shims
So you never shim the bottom hinge when the top is out from the bottom correct?
What if you only have three screws that are straight up and down holding the hinge in
Can this be used to also raise a door? I have a set of double doors of a home I just bought. One door is lower then the other, so the lock doesn’t fit into the gap. I need to figure out how to raise that door so I can keep this door closed.
Is the door sagging? Then shim the lowest hinge. Otherwise move your strike plate or replace it with one with a bigger hole.
Why did they cover the top gap with the tape measure at the end? I guess something didn't work as expected...
What is the name/brand of those shims? I can't find them online. Thanks for a very good video!
Ready-Shims
Very helpful - I have an issue - my door is perfectly square but the top right (open side) is 1/4" away from it being closed were the bottom is perfect. I've used my square on both side and it's smack on center. Would I shim the top jam to pull that 1/4" in so the door could shut? Thank you
How do I fix this problem?
Can anyone link where I can buy these shims I went to the hardware store Lowes, Ace and Homedepot and the guys there looked at me like I was crazy.
Sometimes you'll see people use cardboard, but that will break down over a year or two. We used to use a couple dime / penny / nickles as shims. Works pretty well, variable size as needed, will never break down, and you can't beat the price. ;)
Yes please, I can’t find those shims anywhere
I feel certain you have already completed this repair but FWIW, condensed cardboard is best. Example would be, cardboard from a 12 pack of your favorite beverage. And you could use a flat tooth pick as long as you needed that much adjustment.
Ready-shims
Excellent. Thank you.
perfect! exactly what I needed! TY
I'm installing my first door and I'm having a heck of a time getting everything aligned correctly. I still haven't secured the door jamb yet, so I would prefer to use shims between the jamb and the stub instead of under the hinges. Where would I shim to pull the entire door toward the hinge side of the jamb? Currently, the door will not close because it overlaps with the jamb (but evenly down the entire door).
Also, try going to www.doortrix.com for some good advice.
Fantastic video.
I can find the metal shim you used in the video. What is the name of manufaturer and size? Thank you
I meant I can't
Ready-shims
In each example, do the shims go on the frame side of the hinge or the door side of the hinge?
I believe on the frame side. That is what I did and it worked like a champ.
yes it goes on the frame. you can also use left over peices of wood 2x4 cut thin. they make great shims.
Much gratitude!
Where can I get these skinny shims I am only seeing full size with screw holes
Ready-shims
The shim goes on the door side of the hinge, right? (ie. not the jam side)
Local Home Depot doesn't have them. Can these be bought online? Thanks
Ready-shims
I cannot locate the shims that are used in this video. Could you post a link where they could be found please. Great video by the way
just cut up an old credit card and used it as shims about 30 mins ago. My room door is now even again.
Decimo good idea!! This is why youtube is awesome, not only the videos but comments too! 👍🏻
Ready-shims
What brand shims. We couldnt find plastic shims
Ready-shims
Very Helpful. Thanks so much.
Hi there, I have a steel door similar to the one in the video, it has dropped on the lock side, so rubbs on the bottom door jam, my hinges on door frame are concealed by sheet metal, question I have is can you pack out the bottom hinge on the door itself to raise it ? as I can't access the hinge against the door jam. Regards Mario ( Australia )
Where can I order metal shims?
Moron
Ready-shims
Excellent video
great demo, do you have a pdf so i can print this info??
Didn't work for me. I have a steel door that hangs low on the lock side and scrapes against the threshold. So much so I've had to remove the threshold.
I first tried longer screws... 4x 3 inch screws into the top hinge and into the 2x4. I then tried placing two pennies in the mortise...farthest side from the barrel. Tightened the opposite screws first and then the last two. Closed the door and still have the same gap at the top and scraping bottom. Gap at top hinge side is 7/16 while the gap at the lock side is 3/8.
I have the same issue. I have pre-installed plastic shims under all 4 hinges. I played around with removing the top 2 shims / doubling it on one side or both sides of the hinges / etc... The door is always sagging the same way. Did you find any solution?
@@st4849 no. I think the next step would be to cut off part of the bottom of the door.
@@ramblinman7153 OMG 🙈
great video very helpful
You are a life saver!
Thank you so much!
great demo is there a way i can print this info? thanks again
They are called READY SHIMS and you can get them at shop. JustDoorToolz.com
Worked thank you
Hey how you doing how do I pick up those shims
Thor Nieves - with your fingers. Or if metal, use a magnet.
Where do you buy those? Can't find them for sale anywhere.
sassy_sasarai : I cut two pieces from a large plastic cable tie and it worked great. $0 cost. I used clear tape to hold it in place under the frame hinge (located as shown) and tighten in the sequence shown in the video, furthest screws from the shim first. My door was sagging by a quarter inch and the dead bolt wouldn't enter the strike plate. Now it is level again and it locks right without lifting the door. Yea!
They are called READY SHIMS and you can get them at shop.JustDoorToolz.com
@@Mote78 Just cut up an old credit card at 2am to use as a shim and the door is finally even again. Surfing youtube late at night has paid off again.
Decimo
Watching RUclips has paid off many times for me. It’s my favorite app by far.
Where can I buy these shims? Home Depot didn't have them.
They are called READY SHIMS and you can get them online at shop.JustDoorToolz.com
My local ACE hardware store did not have these shims either.
Try using a penny, it's cheaper!
Itsjus San ...... thanks for info.......just ordered their 100 pack
@Moon Pie cardboard compresses after several years but polycarbonate does not. I would recommend scraps of polycarbonate if available.
Thank you
thanks for the video
Thanks
Where do you buy these? Can't find them at HD or lowes
cant really tell where to put the shim thus defeating video
Thank you Sir! This saved my but and a few f-bombs. Awesome info!!
Tips from other comments: Use an old credit card or penny. Fixed my door with 3 cents and a bit of glue stick to hold them in place
Oklahoma
must be a secret where they get these shims.
They are called READY SHIMS and you can get them online at shop. JustDoorToolz.com
...between the jamb and STUD... not stub
College boy eh
not basic hinges
Spoke so fast that it was hard to understand, slow down, looked like he was on a tight time table.
You must be from the south. Try lowering the speed of the video playback.
You calling both the top side and the right side of the door the "lock side" makes your explanation confusing. Also, if you want to decrease the gap on top of the door, then you're supposed to shim the bottom hinge, not the top hinge.
You talk way too fast.
You went pretty FAST and shim placement was not clear. You should have said, at the beginning, that the shims you refer to are only ‘1/4” wide and not tapered along length’ this I have me never seen before. 1/4” wide shims that are not tapered?!? Wow! Say that at beginning. Thanks
Way to fast and confusing information, when ur an average Joe not a door pro. Good luck
Over 100,000 views on this video. Every other video is sub 1000 views. Hmmm, I wonder what sells, huh? No other uploads in 5 years though, lmao.
WTF
Where does one find these shims?
Thank you