How To Get MORE Out Of Your Climbing Shoes | Climbing Daily Daily Ep.1498
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2024
- Get Robbie's Scarpa shoes: bit.ly/31gdHiI
Scarpa athlete Robbie Philips is a true all round pro climber. From bouldering indoors to huge Yosemite multi-pitches he's done it all. For today's Gear Show we find out which are his favourite climbing shoes and which discipline he uses them for.
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How To Get MORE Out Of Your Climbing Shoes | Climbing Daily Daily Ep.1498 
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idk how much Scarpa pay him but it's not enough
I listened to some advice from Heinz (one of the main designers at Scarpa) and he says that he recommends sizing down by 1/2 to 1 1/2 sizes at the most because when you size down more than that you actually push the top front (or rand I guess) of the shoe over onto the bottom and essentially change the makeup of the shoe (you make a soft shoe a hard shoe when you turn your foot into a fist in the shoe) thus compromising the shoes effectiveness. He says that shoes now are made a lot more precisely and that the technology in these is designed to work when sized correctly. So the notion that the shoe has to be multiple sizes too small is a really dated concept that is left over from years ago when shoes were made of leather and needed to be sized down in order to accommodate stretch, and that’s not really the case anymore. Just FYI though for you guys who are breaking into climbing and looking for advice. I talked to a lot of people who literally gave me terrible advice simply because it’s what was told to them and so on. So yeah, checkout the video on climbing shoes over on Magnus midtbo’s channel for an in depth explanation. ✌🏽
I find that that advice is pretty good for Scarpa shoes (where Heinz works as I am writing this in July 2020) but I only went down 1/2 size for my Butora Acro Comps, but 2 full sizes for Solution Comps. For reference, I wear a 43.5 street shoe, 43 in Butora, 42.5 in Scarpa Instincts (VS and VSR), and 41.5 in Solution Comps and Solutions.
I have heard this advise a lot recently. I have used the old Scarpa Furia and now the Drago, both downsized from 43 to 40.5 for many years as an allround bouldering and sports climbing shoe. Used in this fashion, the shoe does not hurt after breaking in and it works great in both overhangs and slabs and only shows weaknesses when edging on really marginal footholds (which i rarely notice given my area and style preferences). If it does not get that excessive, edging is reasonably ok as well. Because of the "excessive" downsizing i probably lose some intended flexibility and get a bit worse in overhangs (not that i notice it though!), but it also means that the shoe works better on vertical terrain.
According to the tip, i could have had all of this much easier if i had simply bought a mid-range softness shoe in a more comfortable size in the first place. But i am sceptical about this claim, because what i love about the shoe is actually not the softness per se, but the sensitivity which comes with it and which allows for more intuitive foot-placement than i experienced with any other shoe. I haven't managed to find this in a, say 41.5 sized, mid-range-softeness shoe so far an thus a downsized Drago will stay my "90% of routes shoe".
"this is my favorite shoe, it's a true all arounder"
*says for every shoe
He clearly said that all those models perform differently on different rock types, the Instinct VSR being the real all-rounder. Drago perfect for sandstone and toe-hooking and Maestro for edging on vertical walls.
Robbie was awesome, he let me climb in some cool scarpa shoes ^^ THANKS!
we need the shoes that always help with our climbing. Keep it up #climbing #climbinglife
Like a true climbing shoe aficionado!
Matt, give us more of a heads-up next time you're in Edinburgh, would love to meet you. Also, Robbie is the man!
does anyone else just love his accent?
Loved Robbie's 4 blog posts over at Scarpa, shame he didn't rave on about the Mago's in this vid. ;) I like that Scarpa's moving forward as a resoler, but the one thing I can't get behind is their pricing. 70 quid for rerand+resole?! Shoedoctor is a Scarpa-certified resoler that does it for half that.
Great content
Love a good video about shoes! :D
hy guys, i can t find the gear show for october 3rd 2019, is it not live or am i missing somethin?
Damn, this dude knows his shoes!!
Is there any ways to clean a shoe video?
Use rubbing alcohol to clean the soles.
“limestoon”
Funny story,
So Rob was in Dublin in two climbing gyms on Tuesday and Wednesday this week. I was at the event on tuesday with some friends in south Dublin and then at the one on Wednesday where i normally climb. I use two sets of Scarpa shoes when I climb btw and the ones being demo'd I dont have so I really wanted to go.
So unlucky me, On Wednesday I fall doing a double dyno and snap my arm {currently waiting on surgery). When the paramedics and my dad were helping me leave to the Ambulance Robert approached me and I thought as i had been talking to Robert the day before he was going to wish me luck but he actually went to grab my shoes off my dad LOL Which was awkward.
ALSO Dudes been wearing the same clothes since I seen him on Tuesday LOL
was a good demo tho. BUT Sadly looks like I wont be climbing for 2-3 months RIP
Hey Thomas,
Sorry to hear you fell and hurt yourself at AW and wishing you all the best with your recovery, but your mistaken, I didn't approach you in the centre. I saw you leave the building being carted out by paramedics to an ambulance. Forgive me if I am wrong, but I don't think stopping a man with a broken arm being taken out by paramedics is a good decision. Your accident was the 4th accident I've seen in the last 2 weeks during my boot demos, and I'll admit, I didn't talk to any of the afflicted, I let the paramedics do their job.
And yeah, I wore the same tshirt for 3 days :) When you live out of a van, you tend to do things like that.
Wishing you a speedy recovery!
Robbie
@@RobbiePhillips thanks for the message Robbie much appreciated!
I didn't say you went up me about the shoes but my dad but reading back over the story I see how it could look like that was what I said
There was no ill will felt from it infact me and my dad had a laugh about it later because I had told them who you were after I met you the day before lol
@@thomasbyrne9127 I'm with you now :) tbh I just thought your Dad was nicking the shoes ;) Funnily enough, your mum also spoke to me when she arrived asking where Thomas was, but I had no idea who Thomas was or that there was in fact an accident at the time - I was downstairs blissfully unaware in my little world of smelly climbing shoes and incessantly repetitive climbing shoe questions. I actually thought Thomas was most likely a wee 10-year old boy in a youth club she had come to pick up hahahaha
@@RobbiePhillips siri, show me the dictionary definition of an unintended roast.
So just pick the nicest colour then?
I would just like to point out that the Drago doesn't have a midsole. I don't know why people think it does. Even the Scarpa athlete said "The midsole is a lot more flexible." Yeah not having one makes a shoe a lot less stiff. go figure.
This is definitely not made clear by Scarpa's marketing though, since the American site says no midsole, the European site says it has a 1 mm insole, and the UK site says nothing about midsoles at all.
The original Furia also lacked a midsole, and actually advertised that. When the Drago was announced, it was labeled as similar to the Furia, but better. This was one of the design components that was brought over.
Sorry if this is was too long and in depth, but things like this piss me off because people are going to make decisions about purchasing shoes based on videos like this, so things like the midsole are pretty important to know about. I like hearing about climbers who are shoe enthusiasts and love certain shoes, I just wish people knew about their construction a bit more.
Nice advert for scarpa
Instinct VS R...it was love at first...on-sight? But Dragos are not at all good for me for toehooks, can't even tension the top of my foot to get anything on them. However, Instinct...man, it's like magic hooking with those things. Dragos are super stiff but good for micro footholds for sure. And if you live in the EU, shoedoctor is amazing for resoling. Get a group together and send that box of smelly climbing shoes and wait for them to return better than new.
Plus after wrecking my big toe some years ago (it doesn't really bend anymore) Instinct VS/R are basically the only shoes that are a comfortable fit without losing performance.
STIFF? Dragos are one of the softest shoes on the market. What are you talking about?
@@F4RTIST Rubber maybe, but overall I can't even move my foot in them. Aka in banana shape all the way. I would describe that as stiff.
Met Robbie at a Scarpa boot demo he didn’t say much
Midsole. Again. This word does not mean what you think it does
Matt, seriously.
This is just a Ad for Scarpa. Sad. My first Dislike
Meh, I wouldn't say it's an ad rather than it's just the nature of the sport. Most pro climbing athletes are sponsored by a shoe brand, so obviously you'll hear differently from other climbers who are sponsored by other brand. Like most things in life you'll want an opinion from more than just one person. So when you start to see a trend that Scarpa Instinct VSRs, La Sportiva Solutions and Skwamas, or 5.10 Hiangles are continuously recommended then that's when they actualize as real recommendations.
Lol, like 50% or more of Epic TV's video are some form of ads, this at least is very informative.