How to Build Walls; How to Build an Extension (4)
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Homebuilding and Renovating, in association with Folding Doors 2U, detail the process of building a single storey extension.
With Master Builder Andy Stevens we follow the build from beginning to completion, outlining all the major stages and techniques involved.
This is Part 4 - Constructing the Exterior Walls, covering the construction method, the cavity wall insulation, connecting to exterior brickwork and what happens at the top!
www.homebuilding.co.uk
www.foldingdoors2u.co.uk - Bifold's with the wow factor
Nice touch with teething in the new brick to old. Shows pride in workmanship...
I've always wondered how you attach the rafters and beams to a new extension. Sooooooo many videos about extension and hardly anybody ever mentions let alone show the roof prep. We'll done lads another great video.
Thanks!
I watched a couple of videos from this series, but essential information is missed out.
No word on how and where to fit DPC or wall venting.
Also I could see in the video that the outer skin of the existing build was slotted in where the new wall is going to attach to continue the wall cavity of the old into the new build, which is an important detail to avoid cold bridging and dampness in that corner of the new build, but it is not mentioned by the presenter.
Lovely job well done!!!
I thought teething-in was less common these days as modern footings are usually so much deeper than the original building. Wall starters allow up to 10mm of movement in case of ground movement and so there is less chance of cracking. Having said that it does look much better, but it also takes a bit longer.
Very professional and very informative well done.
Great work.
Great videos! Thanks for sharing
Brilliant thank you.
Amazing !
Bit confused about the insulation, noticed it's only 50mm below ground, but seems to fill the 100mm space above ground? How do you fasten the lower 50mm to the blocks? Also surely the 'ties' are cold bridging the gap, I assume they're metal, or are they made from a non conducting material? How do passive houses do it? How do you fit celotex with ties involved? (as it's more efficient by far). Great videos, though would have liked to see the teething on video, and the change from block to brick too.
Can you use concrete blocks on the outside and inner wall with cavity insulation inbetween?
Big jump between PT 3 and 4, wall ties and straps would of been really helpful to see
Sorry Gordon, we just couldn't get on site... and the trades wouldn't wait for us!
@@HomebuildingMagazine thanks for replying 👊
i thought wet cement over time on the wood will dry the wood out then rot?
Good job thanks
What do you do for cavity continuation between old outside wall and new cavity?
Good clear informative video. Just one question, u stated in your previous video that u we’re going to use 50mm rigid cavity insulation but in this video u have used full fill mineral wool? Was the 50mm rigid used below dpc to keep slab warm ??
Nice workmanship.
Hey, great playlist thanks for sharing!
If I'm removing the external wall to open up into the extension can I build the extension shell first before knocking this down?
Absolutely - It's normal practise to get the extension shell built before removing the external wall. Later on in this playlist is the wall removal video where you can see this happening. Cheers!
Brickwork is higher than internal blockwork ties will be running in
No tray damp over the lintol?
Neighbours have had extension and are plagued with ants having nested in cavity wall insulation. We are now thinking of extending.Is there anything you can advise to make the walls / foundation more “ant proof”? Eg any particular insulation or other tips?
Very informative videos a question sir , can you use solid concreat blocks for the internal walls or do regs state something else ? Many thanks
why is inside skin layed with grey concrete slabs, is it simply cheaper for same result than bricks?
Exactly - the bricks are larger and cheaper, so they go up quicker and more economically. You *could* do both inside and outside skins with them, if you were planning to render the outside skin, for example. Here they chose a brick outer skin to match the existing build.
Do you fill in between cavity blocks with concrete for blocks on footing?
What if you are building a wall for a small house, those houses where the walls are not tallers than 2.5 meter max. There are that kind of small building or houses now. Would you still use this double layer you used with cavity? Because this appear to be very strong for some thing pretty big.
Hi Oliver, yes we'd still use the double layer with cavity, because not only does it provide strength, it provides space for insulation - doesn't matter how tall your building is, you need it to be warm!
@@HomebuildingMagazine ok thanks.
Can you do a ground floor extension for me please? Where are you based?
Hi thanks for info...I am making a small music room and want to use rwA45 for soundproofing, would I leave a 100mm gap between outside brick and inside breeze blocks then add the rw45 slabs inside? Im thinking add 50mm slabs leaving a 50mm gap?
Having had a look at the Rockwool website, it looks like the RWA45 insulation is great for acoustic insulation / soundproofing and would effectively replace your regular insulation, so what you're suggesting here is right - 50mm insulation and a 50mm air gap within your 100mm space between outside / inside brickwork / blockwork. There are also tons of soundproofing products you can install on your inner walls too, to double up. If it's two storey, it's worth looking at soundproof floorboards, which deaden the noise both ways (no creaky footsteps above while you're recording).
@@HomebuildingMagazine so its it better here to always fit the insulation between the gap? as oppose to fitting them on h=the internal breeze block then pasterboard?
confused? whay 50mm and not 100mm to fill the cavity? 50mm leaves 50mm?
That's right - there's a 50mm air gap as well as the insulation, to prevent condensation / moisture build up.
Are those thressel sufficient to give you a proper working height??
Shhhh
Don't let the building inspector see a bottle of washing up liquid next to the mixer
those wall ties look like they a running into building , could cause a damp problem
the gauge on the brickwork looks very high
yes the brickwork looks like its higher then the block work
I think it's because he tied the new brickwork in with the old. If the old brickwork is build in inches, u will get this problem. He should have build the blockwork accordingly.
Like your work. Very professional. Where are you based?
Andy is based in South West London / Middlesex
@@HomebuildingMagazine is it possible to share his contact with me?
Hi.
I liked ur videos quite interesting & helpful especially for those who want to learn more about extensions.& to reduce costs. You know all the prices.
I am planning for an extension at the side of my flat. It’s four in a block cottage flat but through land registry I know this part of land belongs to me only .neighbour downstairs have own access to their main door.
My question would I get permission for a 2 storey extension. How much it cost for permission?
The extension I m thinking about 32 square metres.
I asked couple of Builders quote me roughly £2000 to 2500 m2 double storey extension.roughly about £60,000 job.
My budget is £40,000 .
How can I reduce cost ? Which material to use or who to use to reduce labour cost & materials?
Any suggestions will be appropriated ?
I m in Glasgow,Scotland.
Thanks
If you're in a flat or shared building, my first thought would be whether you're a Leaseholder or a Freeholder, and what are the terms of your shared building contract? An architect or designer would need that information before any drawings or permissions were requested. From what you describe, with a neighbour downstairs, it seems unlikely you'd get permission, but we may be misunderstanding your set-up.
In terms of reducing costs, think about build materials. Perhaps a timber-framed extension with SIPS panels rather than a brick construction might mean a much quicker build, reducing your spend on builders-on-site, scaffolding-on-site etc. It may also have a bearing on the depth & type of foundations required, so might help reduce costs.
But first things first, find out about your ownership contract, and then speak to a designer for planning permission advice. Good luck!
Straps?
Something like this: www.toolstation.com/heavy-duty-strap-bend/p49585?store=R6&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzZL-BRDnARIsAPCJs70X9pla_L7U-Bzk6L4dXnAFolN-ie9RGpxHfSl_mhOUjEN0gnzB1w4aAhfXEALw_wcB