Thank you for the video. It answered all the initial questions I had about the power source. I was so excited about the kit I bought it as a Christmas gift for myself for my 2017 JK. Love the product and thanks again for all the info. Merry Christmas.
Great question - Yes! All batteries eventually die, right? So it's not if it happens, but when it happens, you will have the ability to jump start your vehicle from the power in the second battery. A dead cranking battery never happens at a convenient time, and it's no fun to have to flag someone down to find some jumper cables. Watch our short video about the G Screen to get a better understanding of how to jump start your engine without getting out of your seat - ruclips.net/video/Gv1AMnBFc-Q/видео.html
Hello, thank you for the link to this from when I asked the question online. If we didn’t have the connectors though or if we did but my daughter didn’t know about them, and on my Jeep, a 2021 JL Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon that has the 3.6 liter eTorque V-6 and will very soon also have the Genesis Off-Road dual battery set up on it too, if she hooked up the positive to one of the batteries and the negative to the other battery, would it screw anything up if she was jump starting someone or needed to be jump started herself? Every now and then she will take my Jeep out somewhere and even though I have taught her how to use jumper cables and to jumpstart a vehicle, I’m afraid that if she saw 2 batteries that it might confuse her and then she might do something goofy like the scenario that I just mentioned.
We recommend connecting your jumper cables to the positive on the crank battery and the negative on the aux battery. This will give you the most direct path to your alternator and starter. You can also connect directly to the posts on either battery. That will work too, and will not cause you any problems.
Many people complain about the limitations of the Gladiator bed oem 120v receptacle. Can the Gladiator oem bed receptacle be connected directly to the accessory battery to work around these limitations, and hopefully make the bed outlet useful? Or, do you make a better replacement option?
That factory 120v outlet is powered through the factory fuse box, which gets its power directly from the cranking battery. If you need a higher capacity power inverter, you could easily install one and just wire it up to the bus bars so that the inverter will always run from the second battery and won't drain your cranking battery.
It needs to be the same type as the ones in your dual kit. So if you are running AGM batteries in our dual kit, the 3rd also needs to be an AGM. You don't want to mix types, such as a traditional lead acid with an AGM or a lithium, because doing so will reduce the life span of all 3.
I want to add a remote mount LiFePo4 accessory battery to my Lexus GX (there simply isn't room under the hood and Lithium does not like engine heat), retaining the lead acid starting battery. Will this different chemistry have any negative effect on your system? I already purchased a Redarc DCDC 40 but maybe I'll sell it and buy your Gen3 instead. I've already got a switchPro 9100 installed running my lights and ready for future accessories that is currently running lights etc. I'm just struggling with designing the wiring scheme to integrate everything and it looks like I MAY have an easier time with this Genesis gen3 deal. But alternate chemistry is the big question.
Very good info, especially the 3rd battery. I have a 4WD Suburban that I'm outfitting (non-smart 140A alternator) and considering a 3rd battery in the rear (LiFePo4). Right now, I have a 25A DC-DC charger taking care of the two under hood batteries (sealed lead acid). If I add the third, will this DC-DC charger be able to handle everything, or would that need to be upgraded to 40 or 50A?
I’m confused by some of the information I’m hearing re: deep cycle batteries. Specifically, that an alternator can’t fully recharge them so the battery starts getting a memory and “fully charged” becomes less and less. 1) is this accurate 2) does your system address that or whatever advice you have :-). Thanks!
Shane, so far really enjoying my system....Mike has gone over the top answering all my goofy questions over and over, the only thing I struggled with was the Cole Hersee solenoid, I burned my arm a few times working on my JL forgetting that sometimes it gets really hot
getting a genesis 3 system installed tomorrow in my gladiator. I was told that if I don't drive my gladiator for a week or so I should hook it up to a trickle charger. Is this an inherit flaw of the genesis system or inherit draw from the gladiator while it's in the vehicle is parked and idle ?
Our dual battery system does not consume any power. If you have the G Screen installed too you can easily keep an eye out for any unexplained voltage drop, and then investigate accordingly.
Since our kit links the batteries together in parallel, they would all need to be the same type, meaning all AGM, or all lithium. You don't want to mix battery types because it can reduce their lifespan. You can certainly have 2 AGMs in our dual tray, and then connect a dc-dc charger directly to our bus bars to efficiently charge a lithium battery in the back of the vehicle, lots of our customers do that. That works because a dc-dc charger does not link the lithium battery to the other batteries in parallel - it is completely separated from the other ones. Hope this helps!
Also I wish you guys made some type of small mount box to put the G screen in, I would love to get one to complete my setup but as you know the JL has limited room and to be honest I don’t want to cut holes in the trim panels so having some type of box to mount it in would be really sweet and surly it could not add to the overall cost that much more as I would gladly pay
That's a great idea, we will think about that and see what we can come up with. Also, we will be posting a new video on how to install the G Screen in a JL very soon. The best place we have found so far is above the rear view mirror to the left of where it says 'Passenger Air Bag'.
With a Dometic CFX fridge, it’s impossible to remove the low voltage security so my question is, if I have your dual batteries system, when it’s gonna start to use the auxiliary batteries power, does the fridge will stop running when the battery is around 12V our it will still running until there’s no more power in the auxiliary battery? Thanks
Our kit will link 2 batteries together in parallel while you're driving. Once you stop the vehicle, your fridge will run from the combined capacity of both batteries, but only until they drop to about 12.7v. At this point our system will separate the batteries from each other. All of your aftermarket devices that are connected to our power & ground bus bars will run from the auxiliary battery so that those devices will not drain down your cranking battery. Keep in mind that your factory fuse box is hard wired straight to your cranking battery. This means all of your factory circuits, including your factory 12v power outlet, will draw power from your cranking battery. That's why we recommend installing a dedicated 12v plug that is connected to our bus bars for powering a fridge. The whole point of our system is to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories, so you can always start the engine. Hope this helps! -Shane
Yes, the JL, like most late model vehicles, has a smart alternator. Once it sees your battery has charged up fully, it will turn down its output. This is done to help reduce the load on your engine's drive belt, to try to save a drop or two of gas. If it sees your battery level is low, it will increase its output to help charge it up.
@@mcoffroadinaz4075 You can use 2 lithium batteries in our system if you chose, but you just need to be aware that lithium has some limitations. They don't like high amperage drains, such as using a winch under a heavy load, they don't like the high temps typical under the hood, and they shouldn't be charged at below freezing temperatures. For these reasons, we do not recommend lithium for use in our dual battery systems under the hood.
@@GenesisOffroad Most modern ones have pretty nice BMS built in these days with current protection. Some have low-temp charge/discharge protection built in (which would suck if you camped overnight and the batteries were auto shut off) and now I'm starting to see them with built in heater elements to keep them in proper temp range, and almost all of them auto-balance the cells or packs now. I know we are close to a mature product, but I don't know how close. I use the smaller motorsport ones in my offroad toys.
When jumping or being jumped with this system, you mentioned connecting to the factory positive and negative post clamps. This spans both batteries, so should I make sure the batteries are linked (boost phase) when I do this?
Great question! If you are jump starting someone else's vehicle, your engine should be running, and most likely your batteries will be linked together already. You can simply press the boost button to make sure. If you do NOT hear a click sound, that means they were already connected together. At this point, you'll be using the engine's alternator plus the cranking amps of both batteries to try to jump start the other car. If you need to jump start yourself because your cranking battery is dead, first try using the boost button. If your second battery is fully charged, then it will usually be enough to start your engine. However, if your second battery is too low as well, or if your cranking battery is so low that you need even more power than your second battery can provide, then you can hook up jumper cables to another vehicle with its engine running. Again, if your second battery has more charge than your cranking battery, it will assist in getting the engine started. Hope this helps!
Crazy question In a Toyota, is it possible to have all 3 batteries under the hood? The two group 25s up front and a 34 or a third 25 in the rear by the passenger side firewall? Something to that effect?
Yes. If you have a way to mount a battery on the passenger side, then you can simply run some 2ga wire from the positive post to our positive bus bar, and the negative post to our negative bus bar. This will link the aux battery in our tray to your third battery in parallel all the time, giving you double the run time for your accessories.
have a 21 tundra and want to run a 3rd battery as well but additionally wanted to add a inverter for AC off the 3rd battery. my question is how did you run the wire into the bed?
It's real easy on the Tundra. Just route the 2ga wire from the battery under the hood towards the firewall then down to the frame. Follow the frame, using zip ties along the way to secure it out of the way. From the rear wheel well, look up from under the vehicle. You'll see a large air gap between the inside of the bed and the outer body sheetmetal. I cut 2 holes in the bed sides, just under the factory tie down rail, and used heavy duty rubber grommets to protect the wire coming through the bed. Hope this helps!
When using a solar panel and charge controller, does your solenoid constantly keep connecting and disconnecting? I currently have a different dual battery setup (T-Max) and the solenoid constantly keeps connecting disconnecting.
No. Ours will connect the batteries together when it sees one above 13.2v for two minutes. They remain connected in parallel until they drop below approx 12.7v for one minute.
I like the light you have installed under the hood on your Tundra. Do you have the make and model of that unit? Great video good info and as always well presented. Thanks.
OK, I was about sold until you mentioned that I would basically lose the functionality of my Aux switches once the dual battery kit is installed. I have several things connected like CB radio, HAM Radio, GMRS Radio, lights, fridge, etc. But the external lights are the 2 things I use the Aux switches for when the vehicle is off. All the other stuff doesn't need switches. So I would basically have to spend another $600 plus for an sPOD or something to run my lights b/c based on your statement, the Aux switches would not work for running things when the engine is off. Did I understand that correctly?
No, not exactly. So to clarify, your factory aux switches will still work 100% exactly the same. What I was trying to explain is that you just need to be aware that those factory switches get their power from your cranking battery, and not from the accessory battery. This means that if you turn on your lights, the lights will be drawing power from your cranking battery, so you do have a risk of running them too long and draining the cranking battery down too low to be able to start the engine. If that happens, you can press the boost button to jump start yourself using the power in the accessory battery. As a general rule, we prefer to connect any accessories that will run with the engine turned off to our power and ground bus bars, so that we are always protecting the cranking battery. However, as long as you understand how the system works, you can certainly still use your factory switches to turn on your lights with the engine off. I'd recommend using our G Screen monitoring system to keep an eye on your battery status so you don't drain the cranking battery down too much. Hope this helps!
@@GenesisOffroad Ahhh OK, that makes sense. I was just concerned that I paid all that money to have those Aux switches in the Jeep and then add the dual battery system and they would not be useful. I don't really run my lights long enough to drain the battery. Usually for brief periods of time as needed. Thanks for the clarification!
@@GenesisOffroad Got mine installed a week or so ago and loving it. Going camping this weekend, so I'll get to test it out with my Dometic fridge and other accessories all connected. Thanks for a great product. Now only if you would make that battery monitor just a little bit bigger and I won't have to look for an alternative battery monitor. LOL
Hi Jason, you are correct. You cannot mix battery types when you connect them in parallel like our kit does. If you want to use a lithium battery for some extra capacity, you could add a dc-dc charger onto our system, which will charge your AGM accessory battery and the lithium battery independently while the engine is running.
Most dc-dc chargers can charge 2 batteries independently. You will simply follow their installation instructions and connect directly to each battery so that they can be charged efficiently while you are driving.
Whats the weight on the dual battery setup vs stock 27F battery? I see that you have a solenoid and a blue part with wires, does that make it a smart isolator? Can I put a second or 3rd battery that is a LiFePo4 battery? How is your battery setup for the newer 2018+ Tundra led headlight?
Our kit adds approximately 50-60 pounds compared to one stock battery. The blue box is the brains. It monitors the voltage levels of both batteries. When it sees either battery above 13.2v for 2 minutes, it will send power to the silver solenoid which will link the 2 batteries together in parallel so they can both be charged by your alternator. When it sees them drop below ~12.7v for 1 minute, it will turn off the solenoid, disconnecting the batteries from each other. When you connect batteries together in parallel like our system does, you should use the same type of battery. Mixing battery types, such as a traditional lead acid, AGM, or lithium will reduce the lifespan of the batteries. If you want to add an additional lithium battery onto our system, you can do that by using a DC-DC charger, which is an on-board battery charger that can charge different types of batteries independently. The 18+ Tundra requires the fuse box to be moved backwards about 1" so the batteries will clear the headlights. The kit comes with new stainless steel brackets for easily relocating the fuse box. You can see details on that in the Tundra's written instructions on our website.
The FJ is next up on our product development list. You can sign up for the waiting list to be notified when it's ready here - www.genesisoffroad.com/fj-dual-battery-kit
We discontinued the 85 amp version on our Jeep and Toyota kits in mid-2017, so if you bought your kit after that time, you have the 200 amp isolator. Our RZR kits have always used only the 85 amp isolator because that one is plenty sufficient for that vehicle's charging system. If you want to double check yours, you can look at the blue sticker on the back side of the isolator. Part number 48525 is the 85 amp version, and part number 48530 is the 200 amp model.
You certainly could do that, it will not cause you any problems at all with our system, but unless you're carrying some serious amperage for a specific reason, you will not see any benefit of replacing our wires with larger wires.
the only problem with this theory from an electrical engineer point of view… is if your acc battery is extremely low.. sure, you can start your car.. it will initially charge the starting battery to to 14v for two minutes (which is not technically true since the 14v voltage being read is from the alternator and not the volatage of the battery itself,m)…so it will charge for 2 minutes, period… then when the solenoid connects both batteries… since they are in parallel… the near “dead” acc battery is going to want to “balance” its charge with the “full” starting battery and its going to suck a HUGE amount of power out of your “full” starting battery into the near dead acc battery and will more or less “equalize” creating two batteries which are more or less half full each… doing that repeatedly is going to destroy your starting battery over time. This is the same reason you dont put different charged batteries into many electrical devices because they all try to balance and your batteries will all end up at drastically different charge levels
I have a 2022 goadiator , I installed the dual battery kit . I then bought the rugged ridge snorkel kit because this video led me to believe that kit would fit . The kit does not fit with the dual battery system .
@@voodoo36x Great question! Our power & ground bus bars give you a convenient spot to connect any devices that need direct battery power, so that you don't have to stack up a bunch of wires on your battery's post clamp. The sPOD is a great add-on to our system. It is an auxiliary fuse box AND a switch panel to control your devices. It makes it simple to add extra devices that need a fuse, a relay, and a switch. The sPOD needs power too, so you'll simply connect its power & ground wires to our bus bars. This way anything that you can control through the sPOD will run from your aux battery and will not drain down your cranking battery.
Dang I had No clue y’all were from Mississippi !!! I have a Stereo & Accessory’s Shop Down in Biloxi area !!! We modify a lot of Jeeps !! I needa share some Information with You and maybe become a Distributor
Can you use a Lithium Ion Phosphate Li Fe P04 batteries for my cranking battery? Or Should I use an AGM battery for my cranking battery and use a Lithium Ion Phosphate Li Fe P04 battery as the auxillary battery? Or can I run a lithium battery at all? Is your system a trickle charger designed for AGM batteries, and not able to charge a lithium battery properly?
When you connect batteries together in parallel like our system does, you should use the same type of battery. Mixing battery types, such as a traditional lead acid, AGM, or lithium will reduce the lifespan of the batteries. If you want to add an additional lithium battery onto our system, you can do that by using a DC-DC charger, which is an on-board battery charger that can charge different types of batteries independently.
We ship worldwide. Our website will give you some shipping rate quotes. Please note that the website is not able to calculate any additional import duties or taxes.
I had a 2013 JKU with your dual battery kit and a AEV snorkel.
Fantastic video. You answered all and then some. You need to post this video several places on your website if its not already there.
Very informative video, especially about the 3rd battery and also the additional outlets.
Thank you!
You are an absolute wealth of information, Shane. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you for the video. It answered all the initial questions I had about the power source. I was so excited about the kit I bought it as a Christmas gift for myself for my 2017 JK. Love the product and thanks again for all the info. Merry Christmas.
That’s great, I’m so glad it was helpful!
Great info! Now I have to look for someone like Shane is acknowledgeable about JKs
If I’m not running any accessories is there any advantage to installing the Genesis dual battery system? I have a 2020 JL Sahara. Unlimited.
Great question - Yes! All batteries eventually die, right? So it's not if it happens, but when it happens, you will have the ability to jump start your vehicle from the power in the second battery. A dead cranking battery never happens at a convenient time, and it's no fun to have to flag someone down to find some jumper cables. Watch our short video about the G Screen to get a better understanding of how to jump start your engine without getting out of your seat - ruclips.net/video/Gv1AMnBFc-Q/видео.html
Hello, thank you for the link to this from when I asked the question online. If we didn’t have the connectors though or if we did but my daughter didn’t know about them, and on my Jeep, a 2021 JL Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon that has the 3.6 liter eTorque V-6 and will very soon also have the Genesis Off-Road dual battery set up on it too, if she hooked up the positive to one of the batteries and the negative to the other battery, would it screw anything up if she was jump starting someone or needed to be jump started herself? Every now and then she will take my Jeep out somewhere and even though I have taught her how to use jumper cables and to jumpstart a vehicle, I’m afraid that if she saw 2 batteries that it might confuse her and then she might do something goofy like the scenario that I just mentioned.
We recommend connecting your jumper cables to the positive on the crank battery and the negative on the aux battery. This will give you the most direct path to your alternator and starter. You can also connect directly to the posts on either battery. That will work too, and will not cause you any problems.
Many people complain about the limitations of the Gladiator bed oem 120v receptacle. Can the Gladiator oem bed receptacle be connected directly to the accessory battery to work around these limitations, and hopefully make the bed outlet useful? Or, do you make a better replacement option?
That factory 120v outlet is powered through the factory fuse box, which gets its power directly from the cranking battery. If you need a higher capacity power inverter, you could easily install one and just wire it up to the bus bars so that the inverter will always run from the second battery and won't drain your cranking battery.
if I add a 3rd battery does it have to be the same battery as the duals?
It needs to be the same type as the ones in your dual kit. So if you are running AGM batteries in our dual kit, the 3rd also needs to be an AGM. You don't want to mix types, such as a traditional lead acid with an AGM or a lithium, because doing so will reduce the life span of all 3.
Can i please get a link for the third battery equipment? Thanks!
I want to add a remote mount LiFePo4 accessory battery to my Lexus GX (there simply isn't room under the hood and Lithium does not like engine heat), retaining the lead acid starting battery. Will this different chemistry have any negative effect on your system? I already purchased a Redarc DCDC 40 but maybe I'll sell it and buy your Gen3 instead. I've already got a switchPro 9100 installed running my lights and ready for future accessories that is currently running lights etc. I'm just struggling with designing the wiring scheme to integrate everything and it looks like I MAY have an easier time with this Genesis gen3 deal. But alternate chemistry is the big question.
I'm having trouble fitting the Genesis dual battery setup in my 2013 Toyota tundra with the morimoto headlights.
Give us a call and we'll be glad to talk through it with you - 901-214-5337
Very good info, especially the 3rd battery. I have a 4WD Suburban that I'm outfitting (non-smart 140A alternator) and considering a 3rd battery in the rear (LiFePo4). Right now, I have a 25A DC-DC charger taking care of the two under hood batteries (sealed lead acid). If I add the third, will this DC-DC charger be able to handle everything, or would that need to be upgraded to 40 or 50A?
Does the 3rd battery setup you explained require the 3rd battery to be the same specs as the main and aux battery ?
Yes. Since our kit links the batteries together in parallel, they all need to be the same type.
I’m confused by some of the information I’m hearing re: deep cycle batteries. Specifically, that an alternator can’t fully recharge them so the battery starts getting a memory and “fully charged” becomes less and less. 1) is this accurate 2) does your system address that or whatever advice you have :-). Thanks!
Shane, so far really enjoying my system....Mike has gone over the top answering all my goofy questions over and over, the only thing I struggled with was the Cole Hersee solenoid, I burned my arm a few times working on my JL forgetting that sometimes it gets really hot
Thanks for the kind words! And you're right, the solenoid can get up to 140 degrees when the batteries are connected, so be careful!
getting a genesis 3 system installed tomorrow in my gladiator. I was told that if I don't drive my gladiator for a week or so I should hook it up to a trickle charger. Is this an inherit flaw of the genesis system or inherit draw from the gladiator while it's in the vehicle is parked and idle ?
Our dual battery system does not consume any power. If you have the G Screen installed too you can easily keep an eye out for any unexplained voltage drop, and then investigate accordingly.
Can the third battery be a LifePo4? Also, can you, or do you have to add a dc to dc charger to the third battery?
Since our kit links the batteries together in parallel, they would all need to be the same type, meaning all AGM, or all lithium. You don't want to mix battery types because it can reduce their lifespan. You can certainly have 2 AGMs in our dual tray, and then connect a dc-dc charger directly to our bus bars to efficiently charge a lithium battery in the back of the vehicle, lots of our customers do that. That works because a dc-dc charger does not link the lithium battery to the other batteries in parallel - it is completely separated from the other ones. Hope this helps!
Also I wish you guys made some type of small mount box to put the G screen in, I would love to get one to complete my setup but as you know the JL has limited room and to be honest I don’t want to cut holes in the trim panels so having some type of box to mount it in would be really sweet and surly it could not add to the overall cost that much more as I would gladly pay
That's a great idea, we will think about that and see what we can come up with. Also, we will be posting a new video on how to install the G Screen in a JL very soon. The best place we have found so far is above the rear view mirror to the left of where it says 'Passenger Air Bag'.
This answered multiple questions I had, thank you.
With a Dometic CFX fridge, it’s impossible to remove the low voltage security so my question is, if I have your dual batteries system, when it’s gonna start to use the auxiliary batteries power, does the fridge will stop running when the battery is around 12V our it will still running until there’s no more power in the auxiliary battery? Thanks
Our kit will link 2 batteries together in parallel while you're driving. Once you stop the vehicle, your fridge will run from the combined capacity of both batteries, but only until they drop to about 12.7v. At this point our system will separate the batteries from each other. All of your aftermarket devices that are connected to our power & ground bus bars will run from the auxiliary battery so that those devices will not drain down your cranking battery. Keep in mind that your factory fuse box is hard wired straight to your cranking battery. This means all of your factory circuits, including your factory 12v power outlet, will draw power from your cranking battery. That's why we recommend installing a dedicated 12v plug that is connected to our bus bars for powering a fridge. The whole point of our system is to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories, so you can always start the engine. Hope this helps! -Shane
what a great video! Is the Jeep JL alternator a "smart" alternator, like on some of the new designed engines? Or is it just an old school design?
Yes, the JL, like most late model vehicles, has a smart alternator. Once it sees your battery has charged up fully, it will turn down its output. This is done to help reduce the load on your engine's drive belt, to try to save a drop or two of gas. If it sees your battery level is low, it will increase its output to help charge it up.
@@GenesisOffroad thank you!
@@GenesisOffroad Has anyone done any testing dual LifePo4 batteries in the Genesis JL that you know of?
@@mcoffroadinaz4075 You can use 2 lithium batteries in our system if you chose, but you just need to be aware that lithium has some limitations. They don't like high amperage drains, such as using a winch under a heavy load, they don't like the high temps typical under the hood, and they shouldn't be charged at below freezing temperatures. For these reasons, we do not recommend lithium for use in our dual battery systems under the hood.
@@GenesisOffroad Most modern ones have pretty nice BMS built in these days with current protection. Some have low-temp charge/discharge protection built in (which would suck if you camped overnight and the batteries were auto shut off) and now I'm starting to see them with built in heater elements to keep them in proper temp range, and almost all of them auto-balance the cells or packs now. I know we are close to a mature product, but I don't know how close. I use the smaller motorsport ones in my offroad toys.
When jumping or being jumped with this system, you mentioned connecting to the factory positive and negative post clamps. This spans both batteries, so should I make sure the batteries are linked (boost phase) when I do this?
Great question! If you are jump starting someone else's vehicle, your engine should be running, and most likely your batteries will be linked together already. You can simply press the boost button to make sure. If you do NOT hear a click sound, that means they were already connected together. At this point, you'll be using the engine's alternator plus the cranking amps of both batteries to try to jump start the other car.
If you need to jump start yourself because your cranking battery is dead, first try using the boost button. If your second battery is fully charged, then it will usually be enough to start your engine. However, if your second battery is too low as well, or if your cranking battery is so low that you need even more power than your second battery can provide, then you can hook up jumper cables to another vehicle with its engine running. Again, if your second battery has more charge than your cranking battery, it will assist in getting the engine started.
Hope this helps!
thank you.
Can my 3rd battery be a lithium battery, this is for a 2022 Jeep Wrangler 4xe
Can i hook a 3rd lifepro 100AH battery to the genisis battery system?
I found the answer in a question left by another subscriber.
Would I hook the charge controller to the genesis system and then to the 100AH battery?
Crazy question
In a Toyota, is it possible to have all 3 batteries under the hood? The two group 25s up front and a 34 or a third 25 in the rear by the passenger side firewall? Something to that effect?
Yes. If you have a way to mount a battery on the passenger side, then you can simply run some 2ga wire from the positive post to our positive bus bar, and the negative post to our negative bus bar. This will link the aux battery in our tray to your third battery in parallel all the time, giving you double the run time for your accessories.
have a 21 tundra and want to run a 3rd battery as well but additionally wanted to add a inverter for AC off the 3rd battery. my question is how did you run the wire into the bed?
It's real easy on the Tundra. Just route the 2ga wire from the battery under the hood towards the firewall then down to the frame. Follow the frame, using zip ties along the way to secure it out of the way. From the rear wheel well, look up from under the vehicle. You'll see a large air gap between the inside of the bed and the outer body sheetmetal. I cut 2 holes in the bed sides, just under the factory tie down rail, and used heavy duty rubber grommets to protect the wire coming through the bed. Hope this helps!
Thank you!!!
When using a solar panel and charge controller, does your solenoid constantly keep connecting and disconnecting? I currently have a different dual battery setup (T-Max) and the solenoid constantly keeps connecting disconnecting.
No. Ours will connect the batteries together when it sees one above 13.2v for two minutes. They remain connected in parallel until they drop below approx 12.7v for one minute.
Great video, thank you for all the solid information!
I like the light you have installed under the hood on your Tundra. Do you have the make and model of that unit? Great video good info and as always well presented. Thanks.
That was actually a professional mobile light wand just used for the video purposes to light up the dark engine bay.
OK, I was about sold until you mentioned that I would basically lose the functionality of my Aux switches once the dual battery kit is installed. I have several things connected like CB radio, HAM Radio, GMRS Radio, lights, fridge, etc. But the external lights are the 2 things I use the Aux switches for when the vehicle is off. All the other stuff doesn't need switches. So I would basically have to spend another $600 plus for an sPOD or something to run my lights b/c based on your statement, the Aux switches would not work for running things when the engine is off. Did I understand that correctly?
No, not exactly. So to clarify, your factory aux switches will still work 100% exactly the same. What I was trying to explain is that you just need to be aware that those factory switches get their power from your cranking battery, and not from the accessory battery. This means that if you turn on your lights, the lights will be drawing power from your cranking battery, so you do have a risk of running them too long and draining the cranking battery down too low to be able to start the engine. If that happens, you can press the boost button to jump start yourself using the power in the accessory battery. As a general rule, we prefer to connect any accessories that will run with the engine turned off to our power and ground bus bars, so that we are always protecting the cranking battery. However, as long as you understand how the system works, you can certainly still use your factory switches to turn on your lights with the engine off. I'd recommend using our G Screen monitoring system to keep an eye on your battery status so you don't drain the cranking battery down too much. Hope this helps!
@@GenesisOffroad Ahhh OK, that makes sense. I was just concerned that I paid all that money to have those Aux switches in the Jeep and then add the dual battery system and they would not be useful. I don't really run my lights long enough to drain the battery. Usually for brief periods of time as needed. Thanks for the clarification!
@@reginaldwalton You're welcome!
@@GenesisOffroad Got mine installed a week or so ago and loving it. Going camping this weekend, so I'll get to test it out with my Dometic fridge and other accessories all connected. Thanks for a great product. Now only if you would make that battery monitor just a little bit bigger and I won't have to look for an alternative battery monitor. LOL
What about a 3rd LiFePo4 battery? Since they charge/discharge to different voltages than AGM, you need a separate charge controller for it, correct?
Hi Jason, you are correct. You cannot mix battery types when you connect them in parallel like our kit does. If you want to use a lithium battery for some extra capacity, you could add a dc-dc charger onto our system, which will charge your AGM accessory battery and the lithium battery independently while the engine is running.
@@GenesisOffroad okay looks like I found my answer (unfortunately not what I was hoping to hear).
How would you connect a DC to DC charger to make sure the batteries are charging fully?
Most dc-dc chargers can charge 2 batteries independently. You will simply follow their installation instructions and connect directly to each battery so that they can be charged efficiently while you are driving.
Does your system allow for the "start-stop" OEM system to continue to work?
Yes.
Whats the weight on the dual battery setup vs stock 27F battery?
I see that you have a solenoid and a blue part with wires, does that make it a smart isolator? Can I put a second or 3rd battery that is a LiFePo4 battery? How is your battery setup for the newer 2018+ Tundra led headlight?
Our kit adds approximately 50-60 pounds compared to one stock battery.
The blue box is the brains. It monitors the voltage levels of both batteries. When it sees either battery above 13.2v for 2 minutes, it will send power to the silver solenoid which will link the 2 batteries together in parallel so they can both be charged by your alternator. When it sees them drop below ~12.7v for 1 minute, it will turn off the solenoid, disconnecting the batteries from each other.
When you connect batteries together in parallel like our system does, you should use the same type of battery. Mixing battery types, such as a traditional lead acid, AGM, or lithium will reduce the lifespan of the batteries. If you want to add an additional lithium battery onto our system, you can do that by using a DC-DC charger, which is an on-board battery charger that can charge different types of batteries independently.
The 18+ Tundra requires the fuse box to be moved backwards about 1" so the batteries will clear the headlights. The kit comes with new stainless steel brackets for easily relocating the fuse box. You can see details on that in the Tundra's written instructions on our website.
Thanks for the info....
Will this work with the switch pros? The switch module fits right where the batteries go it looks pretty tight but it looks like it might work.
It does. It's tight, but it works
@@robertachtmeyer2781 thanks bro for letting me know man cuz I was kind of nervous about that also that's what she said.
Do you offer installation of your dual battery system?
Sorry, we do not offer any installation labor services at our office.
Can we use your dual batery sitem for a 4runner into a fjcrusier
The FJ is next up on our product development list. You can sign up for the waiting list to be notified when it's ready here - www.genesisoffroad.com/fj-dual-battery-kit
how do i tell if i have the 85 amp or 200 amp isolator on my dual kit?
We discontinued the 85 amp version on our Jeep and Toyota kits in mid-2017, so if you bought your kit after that time, you have the 200 amp isolator. Our RZR kits have always used only the 85 amp isolator because that one is plenty sufficient for that vehicle's charging system. If you want to double check yours, you can look at the blue sticker on the back side of the isolator. Part number 48525 is the 85 amp version, and part number 48530 is the 200 amp model.
@@GenesisOffroad thanks i checked sticker its 200
is it ok to change the cables in the isolator to 1/0GA?
You certainly could do that, it will not cause you any problems at all with our system, but unless you're carrying some serious amperage for a specific reason, you will not see any benefit of replacing our wires with larger wires.
the only problem with this theory from an electrical engineer point of view… is if your acc battery is extremely low.. sure, you can start your car.. it will initially charge the starting battery to to 14v for two minutes (which is not technically true since the 14v voltage being read is from the alternator and not the volatage of the battery itself,m)…so it will charge for 2 minutes, period… then when the solenoid connects both batteries… since they are in parallel… the near “dead” acc battery is going to want to “balance” its charge with the “full” starting battery and its going to suck a HUGE amount of power out of your “full” starting battery into the near dead acc battery and will more or less “equalize” creating two batteries which are more or less half full each… doing that repeatedly is going to destroy your starting battery over time. This is the same reason you dont put different charged batteries into many electrical devices because they all try to balance and your batteries will all end up at drastically different charge levels
I have a 2022 goadiator , I installed the dual battery kit . I then bought the rugged ridge snorkel kit because this video led me to believe that kit would fit . The kit does not fit with the dual battery system .
Hey Michael! It can fit with some very minor adjustments. Feel free to give us a call and we'll tell you about it! 901-214-5337
That video was amazing thank you
Such a great video. You really know your stuff.
Auxiliary devices should be run through a sPod (or similar switch panel) to the genesis Dual Battery. Saves the cranking battery.
Yes, that is correct!
@@GenesisOffroad why go through a sPod vs the bus bar on the Genesis?
@@voodoo36x Great question! Our power & ground bus bars give you a convenient spot to connect any devices that need direct battery power, so that you don't have to stack up a bunch of wires on your battery's post clamp. The sPOD is a great add-on to our system. It is an auxiliary fuse box AND a switch panel to control your devices. It makes it simple to add extra devices that need a fuse, a relay, and a switch. The sPOD needs power too, so you'll simply connect its power & ground wires to our bus bars. This way anything that you can control through the sPOD will run from your aux battery and will not drain down your cranking battery.
@@GenesisOffroad Got it....THNX!
Good stuff!
I do however love the battery kit !
I wonder if a large capacitor would be a good idea for the fridge since its like an air conditioner in your home. This is what the Car audio guys do.
Nice system.
Dang I had No clue y’all were from Mississippi !!! I have a Stereo & Accessory’s Shop Down in Biloxi area !!! We modify a lot of Jeeps !! I needa share some Information with You and maybe become a Distributor
That sounds great Chris! Here’s a link to our new dealer request form. www.genesisoffroad.com/Become-a-Dealer_ep_42-1.html
Awesome brother 👏
Can you use a Lithium Ion Phosphate Li Fe P04 batteries for my cranking battery? Or Should I use an AGM battery for my cranking battery and use a Lithium Ion Phosphate Li Fe P04 battery as the auxillary battery? Or can I run a lithium battery at all? Is your system a trickle charger designed for AGM batteries, and not able to charge a lithium battery properly?
When you connect batteries together in parallel like our system does, you should use the same type of battery. Mixing battery types, such as a traditional lead acid, AGM, or lithium will reduce the lifespan of the batteries. If you want to add an additional lithium battery onto our system, you can do that by using a DC-DC charger, which is an on-board battery charger that can charge different types of batteries independently.
A few years later than all the rest, but: how can we order in Europe? Through eBay is WAY to expensive…
We ship worldwide. Our website will give you some shipping rate quotes. Please note that the website is not able to calculate any additional import duties or taxes.
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏
Thank you for sharing
🎄❄️⛄🎅
The dealership will require that you reinstall the stock setup to prove the dual battery setup isn’t the issue. Be prepared for that.