Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on RUclips) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ruclips.net/p/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy- ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
I'm just a normal gal who knows very little about drywall and is trying to make some drywall repairs in my house. Somehow I ended up watching a bunch of your videos. I watched quite a few videos from other people, but yours are so thorough and detailed that I have confidence that I'll be approaching my repairs in the correct way. Thank you for posting these videos and sharing your knowledge with the world.
Awesome video. I've done small repairs before and had no problem but the last time I patched a big crack I didn't like my work. This video helped me understand why it didn't look professional. Thanks for explaining the 24"-36" inch rule. I only made my mud about 12" wide and that's why it looked crappy.
Being old school, I have gotten to the point where I don't need to sand. I use the knife and scrape the patch clean just before the mud cures. If I get a high point I will spray with water or wet with a sponge. I absolutely am able to avoid sanding dust using this method.
I swear by spray adhesive for certain types of situations the past few years and this one I didn’t think of ...with the mesh tape application. That’s genius, man.
Hey Kilted Gyuy. I Just noticed the monument in the background! Just moved to GJ and in the process of remodeling my home. Appreciate the videos and lessons. Ill keep an eye out for you around town. Thanks again for the content.
I wish you were here in Michigan, I’m sure there are very qualified people here but they don’t have a RUclips channel where we get to see their work before we hire them lol. I wish I could do the work myself, I’ve always enjoyed doing those projects around the house but I’m not able to work anymore. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
I had a crack in the corner of a doorway. I cut a V groove in the crack and pre filled with easy sand 90. Then I taped with all purpose and skimmed it out with plus 3. But I didn’t add screws like you did, I’m sure that makes it much stronger. Great tips Guy, you’re a lot faster than me.
Sometimes there is nothing to screw to, and I just fixed one like you described yesterday, and did it almost exactly the same way. Main difference is I used hot mud and then plus 3. The way you did it was just fine. So you’re on the right track.
The "V" method, IS the correct method !! The example is this video is beginner's/rookie method at best !!.or possibly for a quick repair to a high volume rental housing..I was hoping for more professional tips from this video !!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and empowering others to perform these repairs. Does the existing paint on the wall need to be scuffed so that the new mud will stick or will it stick either way?
Few screw holes down the crack and use foam spray to fill the crack then cut it back once cured just fill the crack with filler a much easier way and the foam will give you a back fill stoping the crack opening up again and letting any filler sink back down it, plus it will flex with any movement.
Love your videos they really help me out thankyou I have a question do you recommend sanding with water and a sponge ?? I've seen some people do that never tried it before so I wondered if it would be a good idea
I enjoy your channel very much!! Great illustrations!! I would like to know if possible to use the 20min compound on multiple coats to speed up the repair time. If not, why?
How would you fix a ceiling crack in a 70+ year old ceiling. We have cove plaster and a textured ceiling. The cracks are coming from the fireplace corner at the ceiling and radiating out towards the center of the room. Another crack comes from the corner of the door towards the other crack. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much. From Canada.
I'm working on a building and I've done over 300 of these crack repairs. More repairs keep on popping up in different areas. Only a couple of mine have split again. It's a breezeway so it's kind of exposed to the elements. Do you know why cracks continue to appear? Could it be the framing or the foundation? There are some residents who have been here since the building was built and they said that the foundation has had to be worked on multiple times. Could it be the temperature change?
there’s so many things that can cause cracking that I seldom try and actually guess what it is. It can be humidity changes due to seasons, temperature changes, structural issues, foundation issues, and more.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thank you for the reply, I know this area of Texas is known for its expensive soil being a culprit to foundation issues. Many of the cracks are jagged and diagonal. There are concrete stairwells which also have jagged and diagonal cracks in them. None of the sheetrock is green and I think that has a lot to do with it as well. It gets so humid here sometimes that paint can remain wet for over 24 hours. Unfortunately it seems, no matter how well you do your repairs some times things are out of our hands.
Thanks for all the great instructional videos. You provide a truly valuable service that will be relevant and useful for decades. Unless USG teams up with Boston Dynamics and creates a taping and finishing robot that can open and close doors. They'll never be able to open a bucket, though!! haHA!! A couple thoughts/questions: Do you not like using the angled/offset sanding sponges ? They're effective on edges, but have the added benefit of not needing to watch for gouging the adjacent wall in sanding corners. (As though I'm presenting new information to you. lol) The only issue is that you can gouge the actual corner with that 'sharp' edge if you're not careful. Also, is it possible for you to go through the benefits and various usage cases for each type of mud? I've been using Plus 3 for everything (tape, 1st coat, & 2nd coat), but the contractor doesn't like the excessive wait times for it to dry.
I prefer the square sponges for inside angles as I can use them without damaging the other side, and they clean up the opposing angle better. Then you can always turn them sideways and use the non grit side against the opposing wall to not damage it also. The angled sponges are great for certain areas, but the sharp edge wears out quickly so I only use them when I need too. I do plan on reviewing mud and uses one day, plus I'll cover all that in my ebook about tools and materials, coming out soon in my online store at: www.etsy.com/shop/ThatKiltedGuyDIY?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=969964231§ion_id=32770465
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I see what you mean. I'll have to give them another chance. I picked up my framing/hanging/finishing knowledge from my dad. He's been in the business for roughly as long as you and I'm finding that a lot of your tools & methods are similar. I just remembered, I have a tool from my short time learning carpentry in Japan that just sits in my tool bucket. It's a jig with an angled utility knife blade that you run along the cut edge of a sheet of drywall. It's designed to taper the edge of an end cut. I'd be happy to send it to you to review.
If things are moving, drywall will crack. You could look into things like putting a false beam over the crack, to allow it to constantly cover the crack even if it opens up and closes. Or maybe an expansion joint, but it all depends on where it's at and whether those things would look bad. Otherwise adding re-inforcing pillars under the house to distribute the load more or shoring up the foundation might be the cure. There's much more to it like soil drainage, soil stability, etc. You might need something as simple as rain gutters that drain into a french drain to move the water well away from the foundation. But a foundation company could tell you more about what you need than I can. Bottom line is, if there's movement, a crack will come back. One quick story, I got called to fix a rather wide crack once that the customer said would open up every winter I believe it was, then close up in the summer. He figured it was a foundation issue but wanted to try fixing it. I cut out a 4'x8' section and replaced it with a whole new piece of rock, and it cracked badly anyway, right through the middle of the sheet, not in a joint. Next he re-inforced the foundation and that solved it. He also had a flat roof in Snowmass Colorado, so it was a bad idea, with bad engineering that was the problem.
I have one that is caused by humidity changes. Must just be due to differing materials in the wall, as the wall is in the middle of the house and the wall of the floor below it sits on the concrete slab, but the crack is halfway down the wall, and the slab isn't cracked there. There is a door header at one end, in the basement that I may try replacing with steel. The rest of the wall the grain is all the same direction .
Never done that in 35+ years, and never had a problem with them going further. If rock wants to crack, a little mud won't stop it. I've seen sheets break right through the middle, not on a seam.
Wow amazing. I would love to learn more from you. I see that you put up a billboard for your business. Tell how that went on feedback when using Billboard?
I only had the billboard up for 2 months and found it really didn’t get enough attention. But I figured out later I really put too much information on it. We made some money off of it but not enough. The majority of my work non referral work came from word-of-mouth, and my website. People go onto Google and search for drywall repairs and they found me first and then saw that I was five star rated. but roughly 40% of my actual work or more, came from word-of-mouth and repeat customers.
Can you please tell me what paint color that is?!! Because i believe it’s the same in my apartment and i wanna fix the crack to avoid property damage payments i just can’t find the exact color and i think this is it!
I’m hoping maybe you can give me a tip. My house has rock plus skim coat, it’s a huge pain in the ass. It’s not quite plaster and lath, but not plain sheet rock either. I’ve got some ceiling cracks along the joists, probably the seams of the sheets. How the heck can I secure everything and then successfully get adherence of the topcoat? Drywall screws tend to make things crumble, rather than suck up. All I can think of is that with the 1/8-3/16” of skim coat I could bury a fender washer or something in there. Durabond and mesh tape works on most things, but these seams keep re-cracking with the seasons :(
when you fix cracks over smooth slick surfaces, make sure you rough up the entire area that mud might touch with 80 grit or even coarser sandpaper. And then I would use spray adhesive to glue down the mesh tape or use fiber fuse tape. You can get fibafuse tape in wider rolls like 6 inches too. If you use fibafuse, be sure to use regular weight all purpose mud and you could even squirt a little bit of wood glue in to make sure it sticks really well. And then use these last screws and try and get them to sink in a little bit so you don’t have to put too much mud on top of them. amzn.to/3dFE8at and finally, I hope you’ll consider joining my Patreon page to show your support for my channel. if you don’t, the mud won’t stick at all, just kidding. Www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thanks so much! I don't think this on a stud so I am going to pull the baseboard off & try to put a few screws in the bottom. New construction so you know...50% of my windows have this problem. Thanks again for all your dedication to helping all of us!!
Kimberly, I'm glad to help. I would push on the crack a little, if it moves much at all and there's no stud, you can also open the crack up a bit and fill it with construction adhesive, or even just press a lot of mud into the crack. That can help glue it back together a little anyway. But taping it with mesh and hot mud makes it stronger too, so that should solve most of the cracks for good. Thanks again. 👣
What grit sanding disc's do you recommend? I just recently picked up a porter cable sander (like the one in the video). Any other tips, or tricks with using these units?
Hello there, you are right. This is definitely more depth than just putting joint compound on crack. Why did you put the screws into the wall? Thank you.
When a crack appears, it often weakens the screws or nails in that area. Plus I just want that area to be extra firmly attached to minimize future movement, so I put screws in if possible. 😎👣
It takes me 15 seconds to sand the edge, and I would have had to set up a ladder to reach higher from what I remember. This was almost 2 years ago though
What about the crack that keeps coming back? It's a vaulted ceiling and the crack is at the peak of the wall, I did that method twice and each time it takes a few weeks and the crack comes back
Sometimes people put in a fake box beam down the middle. I have other ways to try and fix it with drywall mud but I can’t tell you what to do without being there in person and sometimes there is no guarantee if you have too much expansion and contraction or movement.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY yeah it is kind of an eye sore if you notice it, I’ve tried to plaster it many ways and it come back after a month. I might have to just do some trim molding to make it look normal and hide it
Many things can cause it from expansion, contraction, settling, shifting, not hung right, studs that were not dry enough, humidity changes, shaking buildings etc
Couldn't you just take the hump down a little bit with sandpaper just before you hit the mesh tape or the paper tape? It would give you a smaller hump thanks for the video
Well for starters, paint is really difficult to sand off as it just gums up sandpaper and gets really gummy on the wall if you sand too much. But there’s very little thickness you could remove before you go right through the paper face of the drywall which would weaken this whole joint even more. The hump comes because of putting joint tape on a flat surface so you have no choice but to create a hump. Hey I hope that helps you out and thanks for subscribing, and I will catch you on the next video, Guy
There are really good handymen. But too many shouldn’t be doing drywall repairs at all. Applies to a lot of painters and Drywallers too. Glad you’re skilled. Take care
I hate the word handyman because its Used in a derogatory way just like he used it here. It is a key search word for homeowners looking for help so I have it in my adds but not promently. There are terrible tradesman in every trade so it just depends on the person. One of the best ways to determine skill is word of mouth and price. Tradesman that are good know it and charge for it and they are booked weeks and months out.
@@imout671 I tried calling myself Dan-the-fixit-Man, never caught on, I don't like handyman either, but that's what I am, there are to many who ruined the title, anyway I do what I do best at the end of the day, that's putting the smile on my customers face, my motto, "You break it, I fix it, I fix it, you break it", started with my wife ( the saboteur).
@@dannymartinez8314 well I'm 3 years in and its the best thing I could have done. I actually started buying and remodeling rentals back in 08 with what was left of my retirement and thought I'd develop a string of rentals but prices went up and properties were no longer cheap. So I started my business with what I taught myself. Dan don't give up. Remember your selling yourself first. Your image, honesty etc. Skills are 2nd. Your image you sell the customer gets you in the door and your skills get you called back.
@@imout671 very true, I've been told that many time by many people in the past, it's what I live by since before I met and married my wife in 2004, in the beginning, I stopped doing ads and let my customers pass my name and what I do, by mouth, I love taking care of people in need of help or just wanting someone to talk too, I'm old school, I ask, how can I help you, and not, what's in it for me. Work hard and live long,.
I am a homeowner and have been doing my own drywall installation and mudding for many years. However I stumbled onto your site and learned about hot mud. This weekend I was doing some drywall repairs and used mesh tape and hot mud. I put on the first coat of hot mud on and all looked fine I lightly sanded the surface and them put on a second coat of hot mud. After the second coat dried I noticed I had a small area that the mud developed small bumps like pimples. I sanded these down and pulled the final coat with top coat mud and the small bumps came back. What is causing these. I never had these after I put on the first coat of hot mud, only after the second coat. This bubbling is on a fresh piece of green board, never painted.
Bubbles like that are a pain. I've never found a way to entirely avoid them and I've tried dozens of ways. Usually they're much worse when you coat over painted drywall, but since you didn't they're probably the more minor version. And often what happens is you sand them off and the sanding dust gets into the pinholes, so the next coat can't stick right and 'droops' back out. So what you can do is blow out the pinholes with a little compressed air, or vacuum it out and that usually helps, then just coat it, wipe it tight, and do that a few times in the area of the bubbles until the mud sticks and quits doing that. Often it will do it again on the next coat but with fewer bubbles, so you have to then 'touch it up' before texture or paint. Hope that helps. Guy 😎👣
Did you watch the video? I used a vacuum drywall sander and didn’t make more than 2 tablespoons of dust. Plus look to the right and you’ll see the whole house was being worked on as I was doing popcorn ceiling removal and they knew it would be dusty. Plus if you put plastic up everywhere, when you take it down dust goes everywhere anyway so it’s best to control the dust instead, which I did. But thanks for commenting
I NEED YOUR INPUT. What subjects would you like to see me cover on my channel? Be specific if you can like, 'Fixing a dent in a wall' or 'how to choose a drywall joint compound' etc. Comment below and I'll see it. Thanks! 😎👣
Have you done any videos on using structo-lite to match old ceiling texture? We've got it down pretty good but always open to advice. Thanks for all the videos.
I’m not the kind of guy to take shortcuts and run with the money. I like knowing I can come back in years and see the job is still holding up fine. But you be you
If you have a ceiling crack, watch this video next- 🆘 How You Can Repair a Large Crack on the Ceiling using Mesh Tape & Hot Mud ruclips.net/video/6ZIVR_fMFJI/видео.html
Have a Question? Join My RUclips Membership to get PRIORITY Replies, perks and more. ruclips.net/channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0wjoin Ready To Take Your Skills to the Next Level? (Open this) ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING EBOOKS ⭐ 🟢 Take the next step in learning. Read my new ebook "How to Quickly Improve Your Mudding Skills" at: geni.us/DrywallsecretsEbook 🟢 Learn tips & tricks for spraying Knock Down Texture- geni.us/knockdownebook 🟢 Guide to Drywall Sandpaper, what to use, when etc- geni.us/SandingGritGuide 🟢 And you'll find even MORE ebooks and guides in my store. ☑ DRYWALL COURSES- Sign up for our email list to be notified of future Drywall Courses you can take, AND we'll send you a discount offer each time we release a new course. Sign up at: www.thatkiltedguy.com ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) For 10% OFF Any tools, enter the code KILTEDGUY10 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 For a Hawk & Trowel Set- geni.us/urlJsH ☑ TapeBuddy easy Novice Drywall Tools 🟢 Mixit Paddle - geni.us/MixitPaddle 🟢 TapeBuddy simple taping tool - amzn.to/3KN9tVY 🟢 TapeBuddy Taper, mixer and bucket scoop- amzn.to/38UdUkm ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Mesh Tape dispenser (optional) - geni.us/Meshtapegun 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for beginners or pros alike- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Rubber Skimming blade mentioned in other videos -geni.us/rubberblade 🟢 Wen Vacuum Drywall Sander (Good one for a low price) - geni.us/Wensander1 🟢 The Dewalt Mud Mixing Drill I use (super tough) geni.us/DewaltMudDrill 🟢 For our full drywall tools store- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase 🟢 The best paint extension pole 2-4' (for the sander above too)- geni.us/extensionpole 🟢 A quiet compressor for the texture hopper- geni.us/mycompressor ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz 🟢 Drywall Mesh tape - geni.us/Meshtap ☑ Strait Flex cornerbead and specialty repair tape 🟢 Strait Flex Mud Pro- homedepot.sjv.io/babRXk 🟢 Strait Flex Perfect 90 (forms in/out corners at any angle)- homedepot.sjv.io/y2g60V 🟢 Strait Flex Outlet Patch - amzn.to/3JtsFJK 🟢 Strait Flex Multi Patch - amzn.to/3n6m3JI 🟢 Strait Flex Crack Tape - homedepot.sjv.io/6eW5DK ☑ My Camera Gear 🟢 Sony A6400 Camera. (I have 3 they are so good)- geni.us/SonyA6400tkg 🟢 My Wireless Lav mics, AWESOME mics- geni.us/1wVNfJy 🟢 GoPro Hero 9 - geni.us/ocAa Thank you for being part of my channel.
Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels.
At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more.
Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on RUclips) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job.
Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀
And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall
Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg
Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com
Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ruclips.net/p/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-
☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info
⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐
☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark
☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE
⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐
☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com
🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒
- - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - -
☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available)
🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo
🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6
🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U
🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx
🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj
🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH
☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools
🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander
🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper
🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife
🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq
🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement
☑ Miscellaneous Tools
🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder
🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase
☑ Miscellaneous supplies
🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz
DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
I'm just a normal gal who knows very little about drywall and is trying to make some drywall repairs in my house. Somehow I ended up watching a bunch of your videos. I watched quite a few videos from other people, but yours are so thorough and detailed that I have confidence that I'll be approaching my repairs in the correct way. Thank you for posting these videos and sharing your knowledge with the world.
Thank you. Guy
Awesome video. I've done small repairs before and had no problem but the last time I patched a big crack I didn't like my work. This video helped me understand why it didn't look professional. Thanks for explaining the 24"-36" inch rule. I only made my mud about 12" wide and that's why it looked crappy.
You are such a decent human being for sharing your knowledge. It's helped me a lot. A big thanks from all the way from Australia. :)
Thanks from Grand Junction Colorado
Im on 3 hours straight of your videos. You are a drywall GOD
Thank you so much
Being old school, I have gotten to the point where I don't need to sand. I use the knife and scrape the patch clean just before the mud cures. If I get a high point I will spray with water or wet with a sponge. I absolutely am able to avoid sanding dust using this method.
Ditto!! I do the same. Sponge and wet blend
Best video ever on patching , yes you can go too short on smooth out, bin there and done that.
Thank you for sharing your expertise and I appreciate your dedication to detail.
Thank you for the great instructions. I really like the illustrations, the help a lot!
Thank you for your service to our beautiful country
My old man sent me this video, Im working on my first house.. Gained a sub super well done video
Thank you. Guy
Bruce Willis dropping knowledge.
Lol 😂
WOW! Thanks for these pro tips. Learned a lot! Can't wait for tomorrow when I can try my hand.
On extreme cases i've used a 4' darby to float out a joint just inside of a front door on the opposite side. It makes a huge difference.
I swear by spray adhesive for certain types of situations the past few years and this one I didn’t think of ...with the mesh tape application. That’s genius, man.
Hey Kilted Gyuy. I Just noticed the monument in the background! Just moved to GJ and in the process of remodeling my home. Appreciate the videos and lessons. Ill keep an eye out for you around town. Thanks again for the content.
I’m currently snowboarding in Quartzsite Arizona, but I should be back in spring or summer
You made that look easy
I wish you were here in Michigan, I’m sure there are very qualified people here but they don’t have a RUclips channel where we get to see their work before we hire them lol. I wish I could do the work myself, I’ve always enjoyed doing those projects around the house but I’m not able to work anymore. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
I had a crack in the corner of a doorway. I cut a V groove in the crack and pre filled with easy sand 90. Then I taped with all purpose and skimmed it out with plus 3. But I didn’t add screws like you did, I’m sure that makes it much stronger. Great tips Guy, you’re a lot faster than me.
Sometimes there is nothing to screw to, and I just fixed one like you described yesterday, and did it almost exactly the same way. Main difference is I used hot mud and then plus 3. The way you did it was just fine. So you’re on the right track.
Do you wet your sponges
The "V" method, IS the correct method !! The example is this video is beginner's/rookie method at best !!.or possibly for a quick repair to a high volume rental housing..I was hoping for more professional tips from this video !!
My method Has worked on over 5,000 repairs with zero callbacks. The v method is no better, sorry
Thank you! I appreciate this video.
I appreciate these videos! It's so important for skilled professionals like yourself to impart this knowledge. Great karma for you
Thank you, Guy. Great channel and advice.
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and empowering others to perform these repairs. Does the existing paint on the wall need to be scuffed so that the new mud will stick or will it stick either way?
Yes I always do that
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY
Ok! Thank you sir!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I love these video's
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
Thank you for your help.
Few screw holes down the crack and use foam spray to fill the crack then cut it back once cured just fill the crack with filler a much easier way and the foam will give you a back fill stoping the crack opening up again and letting any filler sink back down it, plus it will flex with any movement.
Stress cracks can return over time. Sometimes they don't sometimes they can.
I learned so much from this video. Thank you so much!
Question, but first I want to thank you for sharing your skills. The crack is uneven. How do I handle this problem?
Uneven as in zig zagged, or lumpy, or ?
I tried to smooth out the area around the crack like you did but the surface started to break up. So the crack is now both zigzag and lumpy.
#doitright 😊😊 I've graduated from RUclips university for so many DIY things. I fancy myself a Jen of all trades 😁 💪🏼
Really well done and informative!
Thank you!
This video shows new tape put over old tape. Is that better than removing the old tape before securing the drywall and adding in new tape?
Only if the old is hard to remove
Has anyone ever told you that you look like Bruce Willis? Yippie cay-ay-yay!
Only about a hundred of you, lol
Love your videos they really help me out thankyou I have a question do you recommend sanding with water and a sponge ?? I've seen some people do that never tried it before so I wondered if it would be a good idea
I use wet sanding on the thin edges but nothing else as dry sanding works better.
Здравствуйте а краску нужно шлифовать перед шпаклеванием? Спасибо
Does that mean foundation issues? I have a duplex and both sides have the same exact issue on the same room and door frame.
I enjoy your channel very much!! Great illustrations!! I would like to know if possible to use the 20min compound on multiple coats to speed up the repair time. If not, why?
Sure, you can do as many coats of hot mud as you want.
How would you fix a ceiling crack in a 70+ year old ceiling. We have cove plaster and a textured ceiling. The cracks are coming from the fireplace corner at the ceiling and radiating out towards the center of the room. Another crack comes from the corner of the door towards the other crack. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much. From Canada.
Search for “how to repair a ceiling crack, That Kilted Guy”
www.ThatKiltedGuy.com
Would this process be the same for cracks at the corner of air ducts? The crack is approximately 2" long.
kilhoffa it should be if it’s just a crack
I'm working on a building and I've done over 300 of these crack repairs. More repairs keep on popping up in different areas. Only a couple of mine have split again. It's a breezeway so it's kind of exposed to the elements. Do you know why cracks continue to appear? Could it be the framing or the foundation? There are some residents who have been here since the building was built and they said that the foundation has had to be worked on multiple times. Could it be the temperature change?
there’s so many things that can cause cracking that I seldom try and actually guess what it is. It can be humidity changes due to seasons, temperature changes, structural issues, foundation issues, and more.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thank you for the reply, I know this area of Texas is known for its expensive soil being a culprit to foundation issues. Many of the cracks are jagged and diagonal. There are concrete stairwells which also have jagged and diagonal cracks in them. None of the sheetrock is green and I think that has a lot to do with it as well. It gets so humid here sometimes that paint can remain wet for over 24 hours. Unfortunately it seems, no matter how well you do your repairs some times things are out of our hands.
Thanks for all the great instructional videos.
You provide a truly valuable service that will be relevant and useful for decades. Unless USG teams up with Boston Dynamics and creates a taping and finishing robot that can open and close doors. They'll never be able to open a bucket, though!! haHA!!
A couple thoughts/questions:
Do you not like using the angled/offset sanding sponges ? They're effective on edges, but have the added benefit of not needing to watch for gouging the adjacent wall in sanding corners. (As though I'm presenting new information to you. lol) The only issue is that you can gouge the actual corner with that 'sharp' edge if you're not careful.
Also, is it possible for you to go through the benefits and various usage cases for each type of mud? I've been using Plus 3 for everything (tape, 1st coat, & 2nd coat), but the contractor doesn't like the excessive wait times for it to dry.
I prefer the square sponges for inside angles as I can use them without damaging the other side, and they clean up the opposing angle better. Then you can always turn them sideways and use the non grit side against the opposing wall to not damage it also. The angled sponges are great for certain areas, but the sharp edge wears out quickly so I only use them when I need too.
I do plan on reviewing mud and uses one day, plus I'll cover all that in my ebook about tools and materials, coming out soon in my online store at: www.etsy.com/shop/ThatKiltedGuyDIY?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=969964231§ion_id=32770465
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I see what you mean. I'll have to give them another chance. I picked up my framing/hanging/finishing knowledge from my dad. He's been in the business for roughly as long as you and I'm finding that a lot of your tools & methods are similar.
I just remembered, I have a tool from my short time learning carpentry in Japan that just sits in my tool bucket. It's a jig with an angled utility knife blade that you run along the cut edge of a sheet of drywall. It's designed to taper the edge of an end cut. I'd be happy to send it to you to review.
@@ItchyKneeSon thanks but I don’t think it would get much interest and i have dozens of videos I’m behind on already.
Is there a way to fix a crack that was created by a shifting foundation so it won't reoccur. Thank you!
If things are moving, drywall will crack. You could look into things like putting a false beam over the crack, to allow it to constantly cover the crack even if it opens up and closes. Or maybe an expansion joint, but it all depends on where it's at and whether those things would look bad. Otherwise adding re-inforcing pillars under the house to distribute the load more or shoring up the foundation might be the cure. There's much more to it like soil drainage, soil stability, etc. You might need something as simple as rain gutters that drain into a french drain to move the water well away from the foundation. But a foundation company could tell you more about what you need than I can. Bottom line is, if there's movement, a crack will come back.
One quick story, I got called to fix a rather wide crack once that the customer said would open up every winter I believe it was, then close up in the summer. He figured it was a foundation issue but wanted to try fixing it. I cut out a 4'x8' section and replaced it with a whole new piece of rock, and it cracked badly anyway, right through the middle of the sheet, not in a joint. Next he re-inforced the foundation and that solved it. He also had a flat roof in Snowmass Colorado, so it was a bad idea, with bad engineering that was the problem.
I have one that is caused by humidity changes. Must just be due to differing materials in the wall, as the wall is in the middle of the house and the wall of the floor below it sits on the concrete slab, but the crack is halfway down the wall, and the slab isn't cracked there.
There is a door header at one end, in the basement that I may try replacing with steel. The rest of the wall the grain is all the same direction .
So when repairing a THIN crack, (or a wider one) we should NOT open it up to ensure compound gets into the crack. Correct?
You can. It can help slightly
good video, thanks
Great video can you do one on dry rot repair and door replacement? Ripoff artists aka many contractors want $$$$ for this dry rot repair.
I did one similar to that- ruclips.net/video/p-aHsnbp2Qc/видео.html
What is the difference between hot mud and regular drywall all purpose mud? I do have a 45 minute mix I picked up, will that work? Thanks
Watch this- ruclips.net/video/vRKrSm2aHuQ/видео.html
Do you drill a hole at the end of a wall crack or ceiling crack and does it help the crack from not going further?
Never done that in 35+ years, and never had a problem with them going further. If rock wants to crack, a little mud won't stop it. I've seen sheets break right through the middle, not on a seam.
Thank you
Wow amazing. I would love to learn more from you. I see that you put up a billboard for your business. Tell how that went on feedback when using Billboard?
I only had the billboard up for 2 months and found it really didn’t get enough attention. But I figured out later I really put too much information on it. We made some money off of it but not enough.
The majority of my work non referral work came from word-of-mouth, and my website. People go onto Google and search for drywall repairs and they found me first and then saw that I was five star rated.
but roughly 40% of my actual work or more, came from word-of-mouth and repeat customers.
Can you please tell me what paint color that is?!! Because i believe it’s the same in my apartment and i wanna fix the crack to avoid property damage payments i just can’t find the exact color and i think this is it!
You are amazing and we love you friend!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for the video, I have a question about it. Did you apply primer before you will paint, and why you apply hot mud? Many thanks
Check these out
ruclips.net/video/3_QSmuf0bVI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/vRKrSm2aHuQ/видео.html
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY appreciate that
I’m hoping maybe you can give me a tip. My house has rock plus skim coat, it’s a huge pain in the ass. It’s not quite plaster and lath, but not plain sheet rock either. I’ve got some ceiling cracks along the joists, probably the seams of the sheets. How the heck can I secure everything and then successfully get adherence of the topcoat? Drywall screws tend to make things crumble, rather than suck up. All I can think of is that with the 1/8-3/16” of skim coat I could bury a fender washer or something in there. Durabond and mesh tape works on most things, but these seams keep re-cracking with the seasons :(
when you fix cracks over smooth slick surfaces, make sure you rough up the entire area that mud might touch with 80 grit or even coarser sandpaper. And then I would use spray adhesive to glue down the mesh tape or use fiber fuse tape. You can get fibafuse tape in wider rolls like 6 inches too. If you use fibafuse, be sure to use regular weight all purpose mud and you could even squirt a little bit of wood glue in to make sure it sticks really well.
And then use these last screws and try and get them to sink in a little bit so you don’t have to put too much mud on top of them.
amzn.to/3dFE8at
and finally, I hope you’ll consider joining my Patreon page to show your support for my channel. if you don’t, the mud won’t stick at all, just kidding.
Www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy
Did you Apply the compound on a semi gloss paint?
After sanding it, yes
Sanding gouges....slowly raises hand ~sigh~. Thanks so much, I have an under the window one tomorrow.
Good luck on that repair! 😎
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thanks so much! I don't think this on a stud so I am going to pull the baseboard off & try to put a few screws in the bottom. New construction so you know...50% of my windows have this problem. Thanks again for all your dedication to helping all of us!!
Kimberly, I'm glad to help. I would push on the crack a little, if it moves much at all and there's no stud, you can also open the crack up a bit and fill it with construction adhesive, or even just press a lot of mud into the crack. That can help glue it back together a little anyway. But taping it with mesh and hot mud makes it stronger too, so that should solve most of the cracks for good. Thanks again. 👣
What grit sanding disc's do you recommend? I just recently picked up a porter cable sander (like the one in the video). Any other tips, or tricks with using these units?
Keep enough pressure to the surface to avoid dust shooting out, keep it moving always, and 80 grit for coarse sanding , 150 for fine
Easy because it’s flat with no textured. What if my walls and ceilings are textured? How to match?
Watch this ruclips.net/video/fUiSeoOP2bk/видео.html
Thanks boss
why do u use plus3 compound and not continue using hotmud?
Hot Mud only helps when it’s thicker than 1/8” and plus 3 sands Much easier if needed
Thanks for sharing,, very nice
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing! Thanks for helping me build my channel to 100,000 subscribers and beyond
Hello there, you are right. This is definitely more depth than just putting joint compound on crack. Why did you put the screws into the wall? Thank you.
When a crack appears, it often weakens the screws or nails in that area. Plus I just want that area to be extra firmly attached to minimize future movement, so I put screws in if possible. 😎👣
A little curious why you didn’t mud up to the ceiling. It would have eliminated one of the edges.
It takes me 15 seconds to sand the edge, and I would have had to set up a ladder to reach higher from what I remember. This was almost 2 years ago though
do u go wide with compound for drywall screw pops too?
Only go wide to hide a hump
What about the crack that keeps coming back? It's a vaulted ceiling and the crack is at the peak of the wall, I did that method twice and each time it takes a few weeks and the crack comes back
Those are tough. Is it textured? Sometimes it’s best to put a 1x4 up so the crack is just hidden.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY it is textured and a 1x4 will not look good in a vaulted ceiling in the middle of no where up top
Sometimes people put in a fake box beam down the middle. I have other ways to try and fix it with drywall mud but I can’t tell you what to do without being there in person and sometimes there is no guarantee if you have too much expansion and contraction or movement.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY yeah it is kind of an eye sore if you notice it, I’ve tried to plaster it many ways and it come back after a month. I might have to just do some trim molding to make it look normal and hide it
Try tapeless mud?
What cause the drywall to crack in Middle?
Many things can cause it from expansion, contraction, settling, shifting, not hung right, studs that were not dry enough, humidity changes, shaking buildings etc
What grit do you use for sanding?
80 for coarse, 150 fine sanding, 220 for level 5
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thank you!
Couldn't you just take the hump down a little bit with sandpaper just before you hit the mesh tape or the paper tape? It would give you a smaller hump thanks for the video
Well for starters, paint is really difficult to sand off as it just gums up sandpaper and gets really gummy on the wall if you sand too much. But there’s very little thickness you could remove before you go right through the paper face of the drywall which would weaken this whole joint even more.
The hump comes because of putting joint tape on a flat surface so you have no choice but to create a hump.
Hey I hope that helps you out and thanks for subscribing, and I will catch you on the next video, Guy
Sure thing 👍 thank you for the feed back.we learn every day.
New subbie here! 👍🏽Thanks so much for taking time to make this video and including the graphics.
This is going to help me save money! #sweatequity
!!HEY!!! I consider myself a handman, and I don't Micky mouse jobs and take great workmanship when completing my jobs
There are really good handymen. But too many shouldn’t be doing drywall repairs at all. Applies to a lot of painters and Drywallers too. Glad you’re skilled. Take care
I hate the word handyman because its Used in a derogatory way just like he used it here. It is a key search word for homeowners looking for help so I have it in my adds but not promently. There are terrible tradesman in every trade so it just depends on the person. One of the best ways to determine skill is word of mouth and price. Tradesman that are good know it and charge for it and they are booked weeks and months out.
@@imout671 I tried calling myself Dan-the-fixit-Man, never caught on, I don't like handyman either, but that's what I am, there are to many who ruined the title, anyway I do what I do best at the end of the day, that's putting the smile on my customers face, my motto, "You break it, I fix it, I fix it, you break it", started with my wife ( the saboteur).
@@dannymartinez8314 well I'm 3 years in and its the best thing I could have done. I actually started buying and remodeling rentals back in 08 with what was left of my retirement and thought I'd develop a string of rentals but prices went up and properties were no longer cheap. So I started my business with what I taught myself. Dan don't give up. Remember your selling yourself first. Your image, honesty etc. Skills are 2nd. Your image you sell the customer gets you in the door and your skills get you called back.
@@imout671 very true, I've been told that many time by many people in the past, it's what I live by since before I met and married my wife in 2004, in the beginning, I stopped doing ads and let my customers pass my name and what I do, by mouth, I love taking care of people in need of help or just wanting someone to talk too, I'm old school, I ask, how can I help you, and not, what's in it for me.
Work hard and live long,.
so where is the hot mud?
At the store
Macam mana nak haluskan wall
Ya, cara membaiki retak di dinding dan lancar. Terima kasih kerana memberi komen.
I Hope google translated that well. 😎👣
谢谢！
I am a homeowner and have been doing my own drywall installation and mudding for many years. However I stumbled onto your site and learned about hot mud. This weekend I was doing some drywall repairs and used mesh tape and hot mud. I put on the first coat of hot mud on and all looked fine I lightly sanded the surface and them put on a second coat of hot mud. After the second coat dried I noticed I had a small area that the mud developed small bumps like pimples. I sanded these down and pulled the final coat with top coat mud and the small bumps came back. What is causing these. I never had these after I put on the first coat of hot mud, only after the second coat. This bubbling is on a fresh piece of green board, never painted.
Bubbles like that are a pain. I've never found a way to entirely avoid them and I've tried dozens of ways. Usually they're much worse when you coat over painted drywall, but since you didn't they're probably the more minor version. And often what happens is you sand them off and the sanding dust gets into the pinholes, so the next coat can't stick right and 'droops' back out. So what you can do is blow out the pinholes with a little compressed air, or vacuum it out and that usually helps, then just coat it, wipe it tight, and do that a few times in the area of the bubbles until the mud sticks and quits doing that. Often it will do it again on the next coat but with fewer bubbles, so you have to then 'touch it up' before texture or paint. Hope that helps. Guy 😎👣
Thanks for your help. I used a shop vac to clean out the little holes and pulled a real tight coat of mud and that did not bubble.
@@mowens1972 Glad I could help. 😎👣
I didn’t hear him talk about how his wife complained that she had to dust everything after he sanded without putting up any plastic walls… 😁
Did you watch the video? I used a vacuum drywall sander and didn’t make more than 2 tablespoons of dust. Plus look to the right and you’ll see the whole house was being worked on as I was doing popcorn ceiling removal and they knew it would be dusty.
Plus if you put plastic up everywhere, when you take it down dust goes everywhere anyway so it’s best to control the dust instead, which I did.
But thanks for commenting
Why not just fill the crack and sand it down real quick? Seems like a lot less work....
Because it will just crack again
Bruce willis
👍👍
Ok o
I NEED YOUR INPUT. What subjects would you like to see me cover on my channel? Be specific if you can like, 'Fixing a dent in a wall' or 'how to choose a drywall joint compound' etc. Comment below and I'll see it. Thanks! 😎👣
Have you done any videos on using structo-lite to match old ceiling texture? We've got it down pretty good but always open to advice. Thanks for all the videos.
No. I’m not familiar with that one.
This guy made a simple task look very complicated, I don't recommend this video to anyone
I’m not the kind of guy to take shortcuts and run with the money. I like knowing I can come back in years and see the job is still holding up fine. But you be you
If you have a ceiling crack, watch this video next- 🆘 How You Can Repair a Large Crack on the Ceiling using Mesh Tape & Hot Mud ruclips.net/video/6ZIVR_fMFJI/видео.html
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