Stevey Irwin his name is not Jesus Christ you know everytime you say Jesus Christ in a derogatory way you are storing ref at the end of your life going to be charged for Every curse word you've ever said and yes saying Jesus Christ is a curse word if you're not praying
Had cracks that repeatedly came back after being filled in our eldest daughters room. Watched this video in 2019 & came back today to let you know I followed your method and that crack has not appeared todate. Thank you so much for this video.
Great technique. I've had a crack that keeps coming back. Gypsum plaster on block wall. Tried V & filler - cracked. Tried paper tape & filler - cracked. Tried shallow V and acrylic caulk - cracked again on a hot day. Routing away the plaster the wall is cracked behind. Summer/winter the building moves! Engineering wise, ANY plaster/filler hard up against the crack will transfer that movement to the surface and it WILL crack again. Its obvious when you think about it. Thats why foam is SO CLEVER for this specific type of crack. Its spongey. It decouples the movement, so a large movement in the substrate becomes a smaller movement at the surface. It gives room for the tension to spread out, lowering the stress and making the finished surface much more resistant to cracking. From an Engineering perspective I'm pretty sure thats why this magic technique works. Definately using this technique. The only tweak I'm going to make for extra peace of mind is to choose the most flexible filler I can find. Added this video to my favourites, I'll let you know how it goes.
Thank you for the easy to follow tips. It makes a lovely change to see someone helping others rather than trying to raise their online profile. Really appreciated.
I feel like I'm copying the comment before me but I too have exactly what's described in the video , skimmed wall and identical type cracks . I'm very impressed with the procedure and am going to follow it also . Thank you I've been racking my head how to put it right , now I know.
More or less taught myself how to do this while renovating my old house. It does feel good to see and watch someone who obviously knows what he is doing apply the same techniques I bumbled my way through.
Sir. Watched the entire video (rare for me). Then read ALL the comments. NEVER before have I seen a person so positively responsive to questions. Excellent. Very well done. I get the feeling that you are a true passionate professional (like me, only I'm in a different trade).
This is definitly a great tutorial. Repairs requires a lot of effort and care. Miss one step and you might get debonding or failure of your repair. Bravo to OP for this video.
@@thegriffmeister3127 you talk like I actually don't know how to repair a cracked wall ..I complement him on the way he did it ,,you then tell me I don't know what I'm doing . Maybe I would deal with it differently infact I do sort cracks out differently to him and you ..I think you should not patronise people making out you know better than me ! I've painted places that you wouldn't even believe ! Although I could prove it quite easily if you want ?
@@thegriffmeister3127 I'm sorry but you just sound like a know it all and your first comment you made to me prooved what type of person you are ,,I watched the man's video and pointed out that I was still learning as I have not seen it done like that before . It's not what would do anyway and I can't be bothered to tell you my way of doing anything because you are not a nice person ,,you put me down and you don't even know me ,,book or dvd your still a complete tool
In the US we have a product used for shower installs called Red Guard. It's a "paint on" rubber membrane used for waterproofing, but painters use it for cracks. Basically, just patch the crack, sand smooth and put 3 coats of red guard on. Than paint over the red guard. It allows the crack to move under the paint without tearing the paint. It's fast and permanent and works perfect.
I use Red Guard everywhere moisture or cracks are an issue, just used it on soffits where the masonite paneling was peeling and blistered, just scrapped the blisters off, puttied the area smooth and hit it with Red Guard (I brush it on wait a minute and smooth with a wet 4" knife). We also use it around windows and doors, but his use of foam is a great tip for deep gaps, as it will adhere the old plaster to the structural wall, he used PVA (white glue/Elmers) just like Red Guard, may not be as strong, but it worked for him. I would never use Red Guard without re-adhering or removing the loose plaster, that's just piss poor workmanship! (fix-n-flip contractors are well known for covering cracks without repairing them, it's called "polishing a turd") The Painting and Decorating contractor did a great job and demonstrated some really useful tips, on what looked to me to be a nightmare!
@@superiorcarpetpaintllc4351 I agree the wall must be sound. I've used the Red Guard method on many stubborn cracks that reappear from movement of the structure, and it works every time. My intention was not to criticize his work, but to throw information out there for a DIYer looking to fix some cracks around the house. Not every crack is as severe as the one repaired in the video.
@@154Jamesp Good point, and I didn't mean to put you on the spot, most of the time in the US you will come across this sort of plaster failure on exterior stucco walls, plastered interior walls are not very common anymore and take a special touch to make them right, I wont take jobs like the one in this video, it would be cheaper to demo the walls and hang new sheet rock, IMHO. I am going to try his screwdriver foam tip on some stucco repairs that I have coming up this spring, not that I have any in mind, it's just that every stucco re-color we do always has nasty cracks that result in loose stucco that has to be removed and redone, very labor intense...
great video. Came across expanded foam in the 80s when all the aspiring burglars used it to silence alarm boxes. Will definitely have a go with it to repair stubborn cracks that reappear days after you have filled them.
Excellent video. It's just what I was looking for. I took wallpaper off my walks today ready to paint them and the cracks are quite bad, too deep to skim over. I am going to do everything that you have suggested. Thanks very much. Warm and best regards.
Tried this technique to the horror of my wife but it worked out really well on a crack I have repaired a few times before. Thanks for the tips and tricks of the trade.
An old video but on a spare afternoon I leisurely go through them. You try to teach an apprentice that now who spends his first 10 years house bashing and sadly that master craftsmanship gets lost. Ps. Give bob my regards I've not seen how that canoe turned out. Dave from Ireland.
I see you used PVA. We always used GARDZ by Zinsser, which also is as thin as water to aid saturation of gypsum and paper (and anything porous). Also it's a great primer under wallpaper. It makes porous surfaces impervious to water or paste. Great adhesion and easy to strip and wash when removing the wallpaper. Nice video!
You know that you can’t mask off about twice the distance of the crack and spray your texture and knock it down when ready or leave as texture is. Once dry you can sand it down lightly then take a tile setters orange sponge and a bucket of water and fill sponge up with water the wring it out some then wipe down on the outside of texture area where you didn’t want more texture. What it does is blends the texture in so it makes a much more natural original look as if the crack was never there. Also on major cracks I use fiberglass tape and hot mud. Fill in crack or hole with abit of mud then put fiber tape on it and coat it! Makes a super strong anti cracking technique! I use it a lot of peaked vaulted ceilings and off angle ceilings where you know regular tape and mud will crack out! Just a friendly suggestion! I’ve done drywall for many yrs as a living and it’s techniques like this I’ve used for many yrs!
Thanks to your videos a pot of exterior grade (waterproof) PVA is now a permenant addition to my kit when I go on a job. Previously I only sprayed water into raked out cracks but now I'm convinced that PVA would create a much greater bond as well as firm up a friable substrate. You have helped me once again!
Thanks just be careful never use the waterproof PVA myself just the ordinary PVA. Waterproof may be ok on exterior with just using cement. But never use near water based paints.
What's the problem with waterproof PVA with water based paints? I use it primarily to seal and prime cracks before filling. It works a treat. I'll never use just water again.
I've never used waterproof PVA indoors because I always mix the PVA with water to thin it down, which I'm not sure would work with waterproof PVA ? Would it ? Anyone ?
1:48 I fixed my ceiling exactly the same way about 10 years ago, and have been suggesting it to my neighbors; all the condos in my area were built the same way, with Sheetrock nailed directly to 22' 2X12s, so they all crack in the middle of the span. But I've never seen anyone else recommend it; some just mud&tape over it (for a fix that might or might not get through the next winter) while others actually cut open the ceiling and screw a board under the crack. I'm sure the board method usually works, but I've got what seems to be a permanent fix with a lot less work. Nice to see someone informing the rest of the world about this.
That wall was exactly the same as I had, some of the parts had separated from the bricks New to the problem I was thinking that what would work to glue stone ballast down on your trackwork on a model railway would probably work with loose mortar as well. On parts that were loose I did what you did, open up the cracks and used diluted PVA wood glue, with a drop of dishwashing liquid to break the surface tension and make it soak in better. But in addition I made holes with an old screwdriver, slowly turning the blade round in an angle downwards, which will ease the application of PVA Then I used a squirt bottle (like they use in a laboratory) to inject copious amounts of diluted PVA between the wall and the mortar, and this three times with an hour in between to let it soak in but not dry entirely. After drying a couple of days the wall sounded not hollow anymore, and the mortar was bonded to the wall and the mortar itself also would have soaked up a fair bit and be not that sandy anymore. The wall has been repaired this way 7 years ago now and there is still no separation between the wall and the mortar/plaster. Currently I'm renovating another room and using the same method over, for the 2 walls which are still mostly OK, but the other 2 walls had to be stripped down to bare brick which you told is the best option when large parts have become loose. And now I got curious if this PVA method was used by professionals as well and I searched in YT, and yes! professionals do use it and PVA is even sold for that. I imagine what is sold in the Netherlands as "voorstrijk" (pre-prep) is the same, although it doesn't say PVA on the can, maybe in the contents listing it does.
I've used this trick as well in our house. I drill holes all over the hollow area and inject PVA a few times. When it's dried off you can hear that the plaster has bonded to the brick again. Works a treat. 👍
That is without a doubt a good example of a house settling crack, people don't realize that it is what you don't see under the sheet rock that can come back to haunt you. It does truly need to be gouged out and totally filled. Personally something that big I would've split the wall and sheetrock half the wall but it's a good video for repairs.
Videos of crack fixes on plaster walls are very scary for non painters to watch. A lot of destruction required to fix these properly. Just happy to see he is not using player tape))) that would have put most diy-ers' off for good! Nice work on many levels cobber. Painter Melbourne Australia.
headshot froma45 really ?this guy is a painter not a plasterer & no plasterer would fill a crack with expandable foam , obviously they would use plaster .
I've learned so much from your channel and it's all been very useful for what I've needed. Now I've come here to see if you have anything on Corner Beads and how to get the best finish. I have a friend who's asked me to decorate their living room after seeing mine. But their blinds that were attached the outside of a plastered wall for the window has all come away. So firstly I need to rectify the damage and put a Corner Bead in place. Any help, demos, would be appreciated. Great channel, I'm no decorator, but I do my own decoration, takes me age's, but I end up with a great result, but only because I've watched a tonne load of your videos. Expanding Foam for the win. LOL
Really good crack repair video. What looks to be a simple fix, when done properly the preparation looks horrendous but the end result is well worth the effort.
My house has all these cracks! I've filled them over and over, but they just show up again. Old house, all skimmed walls.Will definitely be trying the expanding foam next time. Thank you!
Hot mud... Nothing more than hot mud and fiberglass tape... It doesn't shrink, and dries harder, the tape is to insure integrity of the fill gap, then you cover it all with a 2 1/2 foot floated patch... Materials differ in other countries, but even lime plaster would work very well if you can't find 5, 20, 45, 90 minute hot mud... And yes I'm a pro, not knocking anyone just giving knowledge to test and make your own choice, spend all day on a patch or 2 hours... I work with investors flipping homes, and I can't tell you how annoying it is when quality takes a back seat because time tables.... I've dealt with monster refurbs where cracks reappear before the paint dries because they refuse to fix the foundation... Palm on face... So my method is pretty much the best you can get for cost and time and durability... Just a heads up spreading love...
I use backing/bonding plaster to fill deep gouges or damaged plaster like that. This has worked great for me. I suppose the foam dries quick though but I'm not convinced how much it would stabilise.
It's all well and good saying skimming over old lime plaster isn't the way to do it but for the vast majority it's a perfect solution. Especially given the cost, times and mess to hack back to the original brick and start again most people are not going to go down that route. In my opinion expanding foam is OTT I've fixed literally hundreds of hairline cracks on walls and ceilings opening them up with a blade and a couple of coats of flexible filler without any comebacks.
Spot on, we have subsidence which is going through the insurance & building work starts in July, I'll certainly be referencing your video again when the work is done as both the kids bedrooms are movement cracks, I'm very particular with the fner details & I to do a job right, video saved, all the best
Thanks, but this crack is not caused by subsidence. The plaster is floating off the block work.. if you have solid walls then just use undercoat plaster and a finish plaster on top or filler... only reason I used foam is because the wall moves. Thanks
The bottom line is when you see cracks forming like this you need to investigate why. Is there something structural going on. Just repairing this crack might not last. It could open again.
Good to see a pro doing a proper job. Do it right the first time and you shouldn’t have to do it again. What’s your advice for cracks on a smooth plaster and lath ceiling?
Twotanks Thank you, the method in the video should work well. Sometimes it's a good idea to put lining paper on especially when old plaster is crazed. Wall doctor lining paper is good, although not that malubal.
Cracks usually mean slight movement. Best fix is using redering mesh on a skim coat then add another skim coat. The V shape works a bit but I'd cut the crack out wider, put some plastering skrim tape in the area and fill over it.
Dude LOVED this video! Thank you so much! I was really worried that I had subsistence as I've got a bunch of hairline cracks in my downstairs bedroom but I had someone out they said it's just old plaster and could be repaired so I'll be doing this! I've never lived in a house where there hasn't been cracks in some of the walls!
@@kingsknightuk When I say settling what I should say is that houses breath in a sense. The difference between temperatures in summer and winter things expand and shrink all the time.
When I was doing all my P & D training years ago I used to like the days when we cleaned all our paint tins, we'd stack them like a pyramid and burn them, came up like new . When people get in decorators they rarely take into account the time and effort that goes into proper prep work
Yes, its coming to that time to burn out my paint kettles.. will do a video.. also your dead right about people thinking decorating is fast and easy. Thank you.
hoodie You using hot glue in plaster? I'll be really interested find out where you got this information on the correct methods of filling cracks on plaster.
Hot glue doesn't penetrate though, it's just a superficial skin bond. You need something that penetrates the surrounding area, not hardens on the surface of it. Even superglue would work better than hot glue. Polyurethane adhesive would work well, but set-up time is at least hours.
Stephen Saines: I took it to mean that he injected it in the holes, which would work with enough glue and holes. I guess the instant hardening gave it an edge over the adhesive, or even the foam, but I'd be a little afraid of the stuff dripping on my head.
I have a seasonal cottage which of course draws damp during the winter months and not in use. I had cracks occurring again and again until I was recommended to put a little caulking in the reamed out crack, allow it to dry and then plaster. It a worked a treat and once treated the cracks have never returned :-)
Great video. This really works! Before I fill in the crack I will remove the dust then fill the crack in dept of about 90% using a small bead of latex caulk! Then I will tape and mud applying 3 coats! Prime then 2 coats! Cheers!
After owning three houses in L.A. area, and going through Both the Still Mar earth quake and the Northridge earth quake I ve learned few thing about wall cracks 1st fix the reason than fix the crack and the best way I have found is to mix a product called Fix All it comes small boxes and Bags its a powdery substance that you mix with water -add it to drywall compound in very small amounts. Its best feature is that it expands as it dries it will lock it self in, keep it sub_surface than come back with your finish coat I also recommend wetting the surfaces with wood glue mixed with water.
Hi, you helped me in the past with your video and advice. I followed it and to my dismay, the hairline cracks in the ceiling and wall are back... the crack even goes round the holes I put in for the foam? I spent ages following your advice to ensure I got it right. The ceiling is a landing ceiling and we have not been in the loft. Where did I go wrong?
I know this is two years too late but next time use some fibreglass jointing tape or paper jointing tape and skim that over the crack first with jointing compound
@@manwithapan9481 Thanks for tour feedback. This was what I had intended to do, but post seeing the video thought that approach would be cleaner and avoid any slight variation from skimming. I still see the cracks now and think how long it took to fill the holes etc. One day I will follow your advice. What grates the most is the fact that it is a new ceiling, so would have thought even post the house settling etc. It should have bee sound? Shame I didnt see the joints part-skim coat.
Very good I informative tutorial cracks are a pet peeve of mine I get alot of hairline cracks in my old property especially in my bathroom. I recently had to large movement cracks in my hallway but my Landlord just did a basic skim job and the cracks came back after 10 months. This is what they were going to do but did the lazy option twice. I just did my own repair and will see how long it lasts :)
Thank you, yes cracks can be a problem two types of crack.... something drying out.. or movement cracks... first one easy to sort out.... second one you need to stop the movement Foam!!
That was a very good video very informative and a very good way also the only permanent wayof dealing with cracks ... you and your brother are true pro's which is very good to see
I would strongly recommend at least two coats of pva -first coat will soak in way to much to then apply expanding foam or filler . Other than that good stuff .
Great work..great idea with the PVA, never heard of it ( but im an electrician, so why should I right..lol).I live in queens ny, in an appt building that was built in 1954, so all my walls are plaster. ive been just patching all the hairline cracks, that keep coming back-driving me nuts. now I know why. you are very intelligent in your trade, mate!Ive been using that quick set drywall compound, that is pink, when applied, then when its dry it turns , to let you know its dry to paint. please help, in advance, my gratitude.. ty
I've got a place in Rego Park with the same problem . Cracks always come back because the walls still have movement. Wondering about this system here that puts a membrane over the crack or the whole wall if needed. In the distant past I've read good things on it but have not pulled the trigger to buy it yet as my cracks are not that many but someday I probably will : spec-chem.com/how-to-fix-plaster-wall-cracks/
Great video thanks! Do you ever repair lathe and paster cracks... Simllar technique? What do you do if the horse hair lime plaster has debonded from the lathes?
cormaccrawley that depends on how much movement. If it's just a crack you can use the same method in the video. But if you have movement you may need to under pin. Or use metal rods which sit across the crack and are glued in place to stop the crack pulling apart.
Nice to know PVA can be used to seal bare plaster prior to painting, would you suggest being used as an alternative to a mist coat on new plaster if so what ratio would you recommend? Good video btw thanks for all your professional advice keep up the good work sir 👍
I wouldn’t recommend using PVA as a substitute for priming newly plastered walls as it will just create a skin on the surface and not get drawn into the plaster. This will lead to the paint blistering and eventually falling off.
The problem with taking it back to the brick is that no one wants to pay to have their whole house knocked off and dabbed/floated out. And even then you can never guarantee that you won't develop hairline cracks. I always give those two options. Dab it all. Or just hack out the worst of the blown plaster patch up and skim. But i always say you may or may not develop hairline cracks doing it that way.
After watching this superb video, I have subscribed to your channel and looked through all of your videos. Firstly a big thank you, good strong, calm and sensible advice, top tips even the one about stress when decorating was an inspiration for someone who only does it occasionally and tends to try and rush things, then gets annoyed at the results, I think I may come back and watch that one alone - every time I embark on a decorating task:) THANK YOU your a star
@Mohammed Ibrahim No, generally you only sand a flat surface, so no sanding embossed papers. Everything gets checked over for lumps things to sand back. If done correctly future decorating does not take as long.
@Mohammed Ibrahim There's a little-known but foolproof defence against sharks. Sharks will only attack you if you're wet. You need a good sense of humour and to enjoy painting and decorating to get the perfect finish and the buzz of satisfaction.
Thank you, when I undertake any painting in my home, i tape the entire metal casing and the handle using masking tape. When I’m done painting and after washing the brush i remove the tape .The paint brush will still look like new. Remove the tape immediately after you have finished washing the brush. Use fine sand paper to remove adhesive that remains behind from the masking tape.
This way of repairing cracks is good ( filling up whith urethane) but do not over fill ... cause this stuff expands and could ad pressure on plaster if not rid of the loose or unstable plaster choose the one that expands less.... just saying ( 40 years experience whith plaster)
Very useful. Just a few questions, anyone can assist please - 1. At 9:00, how long before you apply the foam do you wait for the PVA to dry? 2. At 10:50, how long should you leave the foam to settle for before slicing off the excess? 3. Can I paint the same day?
jesus christ, you are ridiculously thorough on your repairs. Good as new, literally. This was a joy to watch.
Stevey Irwin Thanks my work means a lot to me. Like to do the best I can.
Stevey Irwin his name is not Jesus Christ you know everytime you say Jesus Christ in a derogatory way you are storing ref at the end of your life going to be charged for Every curse word you've ever said and yes saying Jesus Christ is a curse word if you're not praying
praise the lord william
The only thing that lets you down is , that you haven't got a mirka
Jesus is a live he never die he is in heaven god did not allowed them to kill him do your research
Had cracks that repeatedly came back after being filled in our eldest daughters room. Watched this video in 2019 & came back today to let you know I followed your method and that crack has not appeared todate. Thank you so much for this video.
Was that crack in large or smaller in size?
You treat the novice like an actually intelligent person who wants to know the trade. Muchhhh appreciated
Thank you.. I believe anyone can learn a trade if shown correctly.. Nice to help others..
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks! Would you fix corners in the same way? Perhaps without the foam step?
Great technique. I've had a crack that keeps coming back. Gypsum plaster on block wall. Tried V & filler - cracked. Tried paper tape & filler - cracked. Tried shallow V and acrylic caulk - cracked again on a hot day. Routing away the plaster the wall is cracked behind. Summer/winter the building moves! Engineering wise, ANY plaster/filler hard up against the crack will transfer that movement to the surface and it WILL crack again. Its obvious when you think about it. Thats why foam is SO CLEVER for this specific type of crack. Its spongey. It decouples the movement, so a large movement in the substrate becomes a smaller movement at the surface. It gives room for the tension to spread out, lowering the stress and making the finished surface much more resistant to cracking. From an Engineering perspective I'm pretty sure thats why this magic technique works. Definately using this technique. The only tweak I'm going to make for extra peace of mind is to choose the most flexible filler I can find. Added this video to my favourites, I'll let you know how it goes.
I had a big crack right across ceiling and can’t believe how well it’s come out. Completely gone after painting over it. Thanks 👍
Thank you great stuff
@@beakahd590 big crack behind you. Haha
Awesome. I had no idea what to do with several 12-15 inch slightly sagging ceiling cracks. You have made my day. Thank you kind man.
I really got educated,well done,pro.
Mate I have been the game for 30 year and I have just learned something new with foam , well done and it’s nice to see a old school professional
Thank you cheers mate..
35 years now 😉 Yes it's much faster setting than fibacryl or other deep fill products. I like the videos because they're not trying to sell things
Thank you for the easy to follow tips. It makes a lovely change to see someone helping others rather than trying to raise their online profile. Really appreciated.
Thank you, not everyone can afford a decorator, but everyone deserves a nice home.
Well done fella, I’ve been in the trade 56 years,,And your correct!,,your method is the only way to do the job
Thank you.
i actually nodded off while watching this. loves a drop off pva this fella. loves his job by the look of it n all. fair play fella.
Cheers.
I feel like I'm copying the comment before me but I too have exactly what's described in the video , skimmed wall and identical type cracks .
I'm very impressed with the procedure and am going to follow it also . Thank you I've been racking my head how to put it right , now I know.
Thanks.
More or less taught myself how to do this while renovating my old house. It does feel good to see and watch someone who obviously knows what he is doing apply the same techniques I bumbled my way through.
Thank you it does give satisfaction ...
Great job, thanks! Started using expansion foam now for filling similar and bigger gaps and never looked back.
Again a really clear informative tutorial that's given me the confidence to carry out my own cracks in my home. Cant wait to start. Thanks
Appreciate showing tools needed at the beginning. When you opened the crack, I decided to let someone else handle the job. :)
Thanks.
Thats what she said!!
Lol
I always like someone else handling my crack
Sir. Watched the entire video (rare for me). Then read ALL the comments. NEVER before have I seen a person so positively responsive to questions. Excellent. Very well done.
I get the feeling that you are a true passionate professional (like me, only I'm in a different trade).
Thank you, sorry for late reply some comments I miss.. so many.
This is definitly a great tutorial. Repairs requires a lot of effort and care. Miss one step and you might get debonding or failure of your repair.
Bravo to OP for this video.
Thank you. Your videos are good because of the attention to detail which doesn't presume previous knowledge.
I been decorating for 20 years and I am learning from this man !
Cheers mate.. thanks
@@thegriffmeister3127 did you say something your message came out blank ?
@@thegriffmeister3127 brilliant your amazing
@@thegriffmeister3127 you talk like I actually don't know how to repair a cracked wall ..I complement him on the way he did it ,,you then tell me I don't know what I'm doing .
Maybe I would deal with it differently infact I do sort cracks out differently to him and you ..I think you should not patronise people making out you know better than me ! I've painted places that you wouldn't even believe ! Although I could prove it quite easily if you want ?
@@thegriffmeister3127 I'm sorry but you just sound like a know it all and your first comment you made to me prooved what type of person you are ,,I watched the man's video and pointed out that I was still learning as I have not seen it done like that before .
It's not what would do anyway and I can't be bothered to tell you my way of doing anything because you are not a nice person ,,you put me down and you don't even know me ,,book or dvd your still a complete tool
In the US we have a product used for shower installs called Red Guard. It's a "paint on" rubber membrane used for waterproofing, but painters use it for cracks. Basically, just patch the crack, sand smooth and put 3 coats of red guard on. Than paint over the red guard. It allows the crack to move under the paint without tearing the paint. It's fast and permanent and works perfect.
I use Red Guard everywhere moisture or cracks are an issue, just used it on soffits where the masonite paneling was peeling and blistered, just scrapped the blisters off, puttied the area smooth and hit it with Red Guard (I brush it on wait a minute and smooth with a wet 4" knife). We also use it around windows and doors, but his use of foam is a great tip for deep gaps, as it will adhere the old plaster to the structural wall, he used PVA (white glue/Elmers) just like Red Guard, may not be as strong, but it worked for him.
I would never use Red Guard without re-adhering or removing the loose plaster, that's just piss poor workmanship! (fix-n-flip contractors are well known for covering cracks without repairing them, it's called "polishing a turd")
The Painting and Decorating contractor did a great job and demonstrated some really useful tips, on what looked to me to be a nightmare!
@@superiorcarpetpaintllc4351 I agree the wall must be sound. I've used the Red Guard method on many stubborn cracks that reappear from movement of the structure, and it works every time.
My intention was not to criticize his work, but to throw information out there for a DIYer looking to fix some cracks around the house. Not every crack is as severe as the one repaired in the video.
@@154Jamesp Good point, and I didn't mean to put you on the spot, most of the time in the US you will come across this sort of plaster failure on exterior stucco walls, plastered interior walls are not very common anymore and take a special touch to make them right, I wont take jobs like the one in this video, it would be cheaper to demo the walls and hang new sheet rock, IMHO.
I am going to try his screwdriver foam tip on some stucco repairs that I have coming up this spring, not that I have any in mind, it's just that every stucco re-color we do always has nasty cracks that result in loose stucco that has to be removed and redone, very labor intense...
great video. Came across expanded foam in the 80s when all the aspiring burglars used it to silence alarm boxes. Will definitely have a go with it to repair stubborn cracks that reappear days after you have filled them.
Thanks.
Great to see somebody doing a proper job and not just filling the crack which will reappear.
Thank you.
Excellent video. It's just what I was looking for. I took wallpaper off my walks today ready to paint them and the cracks are quite bad, too deep to skim over. I am going to do everything that you have suggested. Thanks very much. Warm and best regards.
Thank you...
You can see you take pride in doing a good job. Thanks for posting the video's
Thanks.
Tried this technique to the horror of my wife but it worked out really well on a crack I have repaired a few times before. Thanks for the tips and tricks of the trade.
your welcome
Nice one
An old video but on a spare afternoon I leisurely go through them. You try to teach an apprentice that now who spends his first 10 years house bashing and sadly that master craftsmanship gets lost. Ps. Give bob my regards I've not seen how that canoe turned out. Dave from Ireland.
Thanks.. Bob is okay and hopefully some up dates shortly.. cheers Dave.
I see you used PVA. We always used GARDZ by Zinsser, which also is as thin as water to aid saturation of gypsum and paper (and anything porous). Also it's a great primer under wallpaper. It makes porous surfaces impervious to water or paste. Great adhesion and easy to strip and wash when removing the wallpaper. Nice video!
Thank you and yes Zinsser have some great products.
They now make a low expansion expansion foam which gives you bit more control. Great little video.
thank you.
You know that you can’t mask off about twice the distance of the crack and spray your texture and knock it down when ready or leave as texture is. Once dry you can sand it down lightly then take a tile setters orange sponge and a bucket of water and fill sponge up with water the wring it out some then wipe down on the outside of texture area where you didn’t want more texture. What it does is blends the texture in so it makes a much more natural original look as if the crack was never there. Also on major cracks I use fiberglass tape and hot mud. Fill in crack or hole with abit of mud then put fiber tape on it and coat it! Makes a super strong anti cracking technique! I use it a lot of peaked vaulted ceilings and off angle ceilings where you know regular tape and mud will crack out! Just a friendly suggestion! I’ve done drywall for many yrs as a living and it’s techniques like this I’ve used for many yrs!
I think this is one of the best video especially for someone who doens't understand about trades like me.Thank you
Thank you your welcome
I agree with the previous post. Your demonstration is excellent. Thank you for uploading and sharing. Your knowledge is invaluable. :)
As a novice this is top drawer info. Cheers for posting.👍
Thank you.
Thanks to your videos a pot of exterior grade (waterproof) PVA is now a permenant addition to my kit when I go on a job. Previously I only sprayed water into raked out cracks but now I'm convinced that PVA would create a much greater bond as well as firm up a friable substrate. You have helped me once again!
Thanks just be careful never use the waterproof PVA myself just the ordinary PVA. Waterproof may be ok on exterior with just using cement. But never use near water based paints.
What's the problem with waterproof PVA with water based paints? I use it primarily to seal and prime cracks before filling. It works a treat. I'll never use just water again.
I've never used waterproof PVA indoors because I always mix the PVA with water to thin it down, which I'm not sure would work with waterproof PVA ? Would it ? Anyone ?
1:48 I fixed my ceiling exactly the same way about 10 years ago, and have been suggesting it to my neighbors; all the condos in my area were built the same way, with Sheetrock nailed directly to 22' 2X12s, so they all crack in the middle of the span. But I've never seen anyone else recommend it; some just mud&tape over it (for a fix that might or might not get through the next winter) while others actually cut open the ceiling and screw a board under the crack. I'm sure the board method usually works, but I've got what seems to be a permanent fix with a lot less work. Nice to see someone informing the rest of the world about this.
Thank you, yes fast way.
I found this to be very informative as I have a very old building and get cracks because of living on a busy road. Thank you for the posting.
sonia clarke Thanks.
That wall was exactly the same as I had, some of the parts had separated from the bricks
New to the problem I was thinking that what would work to glue stone ballast down on your trackwork on a model railway would probably work with loose mortar as well.
On parts that were loose I did what you did, open up the cracks and used diluted PVA wood glue, with a drop of dishwashing liquid to break the surface tension and make it soak in better.
But in addition I made holes with an old screwdriver, slowly turning the blade round in an angle downwards, which will ease the application of PVA
Then I used a squirt bottle (like they use in a laboratory) to inject copious amounts of diluted PVA between the wall and the mortar, and this three times with an hour in between to let it soak in but not dry entirely.
After drying a couple of days the wall sounded not hollow anymore, and the mortar was bonded to the wall and the mortar itself also would have soaked up a fair bit and be not that sandy anymore.
The wall has been repaired this way 7 years ago now and there is still no separation between the wall and the mortar/plaster.
Currently I'm renovating another room and using the same method over, for the 2 walls which are still mostly OK, but the other 2 walls had to be stripped down to bare brick which you told is the best option when large parts have become loose.
And now I got curious if this PVA method was used by professionals as well and I searched in YT, and yes! professionals do use it and PVA is even sold for that.
I imagine what is sold in the Netherlands as "voorstrijk" (pre-prep) is the same, although it doesn't say PVA on the can, maybe in the contents listing it does.
I've used this trick as well in our house. I drill holes all over the hollow area and inject PVA a few times. When it's dried off you can hear that the plaster has bonded to the brick again. Works a treat. 👍
That is without a doubt a good example of a house settling crack, people don't realize that it is what you don't see under the sheet rock that can come back to haunt you. It does truly need to be gouged out and totally filled. Personally something that big I would've split the wall and sheetrock half the wall but it's a good video for repairs.
Mark Brown this isnt sheetrock though these are plaster walls.
Videos of crack fixes on plaster walls are very scary for non painters to watch. A lot of destruction required to fix these properly. Just happy to see he is not using player tape))) that would have put most diy-ers' off for good! Nice work on many levels cobber. Painter Melbourne Australia.
Mate im a time served plasterer and i would use those techniques and have done in the past. Great video ...keep up the good work.
Cheers mate.
This painter is not a trades man he is an in prover he never checked above before pushing his screwdriver through ceiling
Why what's in the ceiling that he's afraid of?? a balloon that's going to pop? There's no wires is laying on top of the ceiling
All he needed to do was use a stud finder to find a stud to screw the plasterboard to, instead of poking holes in the ceiling.
headshot froma45 really ?this guy is a painter not a plasterer & no plasterer would fill a crack with expandable foam , obviously they would use plaster .
I've learned so much from your channel and it's all been very useful for what I've needed. Now I've come here to see if you have anything on Corner Beads and how to get the best finish. I have a friend who's asked me to decorate their living room after seeing mine. But their blinds that were attached the outside of a plastered wall for the window has all come away. So firstly I need to rectify the damage and put a Corner Bead in place. Any help, demos, would be appreciated. Great channel, I'm no decorator, but I do my own decoration, takes me age's, but I end up with a great result, but only because I've watched a tonne load of your videos. Expanding Foam for the win. LOL
Thank you we do have videos on sticking things back.. sounds like a two stage job fix plaster then stick back blind..
Really good crack repair video. What looks to be a simple fix, when done properly the preparation looks horrendous but the end result is well worth the effort.
Thank you.. yes sometimes best the customer does not see... they can worry without understanding the finish.
My house has all these cracks! I've filled them over and over, but they just show up again. Old house, all skimmed walls.Will definitely be trying the expanding foam next time. Thank you!
Thanks, it works very well but practise first.
@@PaintingandDecorating Will do! x
I love your technique! I was wondering how I could fix cracks similar to these and now I know how. Thanks so much!!!
Great video, thanks. It would have been nice to see the final painted result at the end - I suspect it was flawless
Thanks. Look in the description for links to other videos.
@@PaintingandDecorating just watched it. Very nice!
Thank you for this ! My daughters room has a a crack like that , now I'll be able to fix it properly
Your welcome
Instead of polyfilla, I find that joint compound is also very good and cheaper
Great vid
Well, you do pay for the right stuff for the job. Would never use anything not made for the task.
Hot mud... Nothing more than hot mud and fiberglass tape... It doesn't shrink, and dries harder, the tape is to insure integrity of the fill gap, then you cover it all with a 2 1/2 foot floated patch...
Materials differ in other countries, but even lime plaster would work very well if you can't find 5, 20, 45, 90 minute hot mud...
And yes I'm a pro, not knocking anyone just giving knowledge to test and make your own choice, spend all day on a patch or 2 hours...
I work with investors flipping homes, and I can't tell you how annoying it is when quality takes a back seat because time tables.... I've dealt with monster refurbs where cracks reappear before the paint dries because they refuse to fix the foundation...
Palm on face... So my method is pretty much the best you can get for cost and time and durability...
Just a heads up spreading love...
amateur diy and this worked for me for a large ceiling crack, good video. thumbs up
Thank you...
I use backing/bonding plaster to fill deep gouges or damaged plaster like that. This has worked great for me. I suppose the foam dries quick though but I'm not convinced how much it would stabilise.
Sorry for late reply understand your feeling but it has not let me down and sorted some persistent cracks out..
It's all well and good saying skimming over old lime plaster isn't the way to do it but for the vast majority it's a perfect solution. Especially given the cost, times and mess to hack back to the original brick and start again most people are not going to go down that route. In my opinion expanding foam is OTT I've fixed literally hundreds of hairline cracks on walls and ceilings opening them up with a blade and a couple of coats of flexible filler without any comebacks.
Bit sceptical at first..with the foam trick...but fair play & credit where it's due...nice video..I'll give it a try. Cheers
Spot on, we have subsidence which is going through the insurance & building work starts in July, I'll certainly be referencing your video again when the work is done as both the kids bedrooms are movement cracks, I'm very particular with the fner details & I to do a job right, video saved, all the best
Thanks, but this crack is not caused by subsidence. The plaster is floating off the block work.. if you have solid walls then just use undercoat plaster and a finish plaster on top or filler... only reason I used foam is because the wall moves. Thanks
The bottom line is when you see cracks forming like this you need to investigate why. Is there something structural going on. Just repairing this crack might not last. It could open again.
Good to see a pro doing a proper job. Do it right the first time and you shouldn’t have to do it again. What’s your advice for cracks on a smooth plaster and lath ceiling?
Twotanks Thank you, the method in the video should work well. Sometimes it's a good idea to put lining paper on especially when old plaster is crazed. Wall doctor lining paper is good, although not that malubal.
Cracks usually mean slight movement. Best fix is using redering mesh on a skim coat then add another skim coat. The V shape works a bit but I'd cut the crack out wider, put some plastering skrim tape in the area and fill over it.
Hey Feddie, what do you use to skim coat it?
@@maliniraut-roy5944 Thistle multifinish to skim, or Thistle bond coat for anything on the brick.
Skrim tape..... I hate that stuff! I prefer his method.
Thistle hardwall for brick then multi finish
Will using these methods on our 60 year old house ...thanks !!
It works well and gets rid of stubborn cracks that have movement 99% of the time. thanks
Dude LOVED this video! Thank you so much! I was really worried that I had subsistence as I've got a bunch of hairline cracks in my downstairs bedroom but I had someone out they said it's just old plaster and could be repaired so I'll be doing this! I've never lived in a house where there hasn't been cracks in some of the walls!
Thank you, yes most houses have cracks usually never structural or subsidence just settling cracks.
@@PaintingandDecorating Just always find it strange that 30 year old houses are still settling haha
@@kingsknightuk When I say settling what I should say is that houses breath in a sense. The difference between temperatures in summer and winter things expand and shrink all the time.
When I was doing all my P & D training years ago I used to like the days when we cleaned all our paint tins, we'd stack them like a pyramid and burn them, came up like new
.
When people get in decorators they rarely take into account the time and effort that goes into proper prep work
Yes, its coming to that time to burn out my paint kettles.. will do a video.. also your dead right about people thinking decorating is fast and easy. Thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your work. My house has issue totally the same to fix them.
Hi....A really good video showing how to deal with wall cracks and the preparation for repainting.....very helpful .....well done and thanks.
Thank you, your welcome.
I used a hot melt glue gun on ceiling cracks , same as what u done drilled out and filled worked a treat as well
hoodie You using hot glue in plaster? I'll be really interested find out where you got this information on the correct methods of filling cracks on plaster.
Hot glue doesn't penetrate though, it's just a superficial skin bond. You need something that penetrates the surrounding area, not hardens on the surface of it. Even superglue would work better than hot glue. Polyurethane adhesive would work well, but set-up time is at least hours.
Stephen Saines: I took it to mean that he injected it in the holes, which would work with enough glue and holes. I guess the instant hardening gave it an edge over the adhesive, or even the foam, but I'd be a little afraid of the stuff dripping on my head.
I have a seasonal cottage which of course draws damp during the winter months and not in use. I had cracks occurring again and again until I was recommended to put a little caulking in the reamed out crack, allow it to dry and then plaster. It a worked a treat and once treated the cracks have never returned :-)
Great video. This really works! Before I fill in the crack I will remove the dust then fill the crack in dept of about 90% using a small bead of latex caulk! Then I will tape and mud applying 3 coats! Prime then 2 coats! Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Very meticulous work.
Thanks, your welcome.
Your video the best some people they do video they don’t show up what we need thanks 🙏
I’ve been doing exactly this today. Although I backfilled with bonding plaster and skimmed, except where the voids were more than 25/30mm deep.
Fill voids with dot and dab spare piece of plasterboard in void, let dry, add skrim tape, pva, then skim. Job done
@@jayman6905 if the gap is wide enough, that is definitely the way to go.
After owning three houses in L.A. area, and going through Both the Still Mar earth quake and the Northridge earth quake I ve learned few thing about wall cracks 1st fix the reason than fix the crack and the best way I have found is to mix a product called Fix All it comes small boxes and Bags its a powdery substance that you mix with water -add it to drywall compound in very small amounts. Its best feature is that it expands as it dries it will lock it self in, keep it sub_surface than come back with your finish coat I also recommend wetting the surfaces with wood glue mixed with water.
Now PVA I agree diluted so it's very thin.
Hi, you helped me in the past with your video and advice. I followed it and to my dismay, the hairline cracks in the ceiling and wall are back... the crack even goes round the holes I put in for the foam? I spent ages following your advice to ensure I got it right. The ceiling is a landing ceiling and we have not been in the loft. Where did I go wrong?
I know this is two years too late but next time use some fibreglass jointing tape or paper jointing tape and skim that over the crack first with jointing compound
@@manwithapan9481 Thanks for tour feedback. This was what I had intended to do, but post seeing the video thought that approach would be cleaner and avoid any slight variation from skimming. I still see the cracks now and think how long it took to fill the holes etc. One day I will follow your advice. What grates the most is the fact that it is a new ceiling, so would have thought even post the house settling etc. It should have bee sound? Shame I didnt see the joints part-skim coat.
Made it look so easy. Good job well done
Thank you.
Finally a non cowboy! Joy to watch your work.
Thanks, mate.
Thanks for the video. Can you please tell me what expanding foam you used, and if you also used the foam in the ceilings?
I don’t have the patience to do such a thorough job.
Sometimes I do think I do too much.
Hard working lad
a very long video, but great content covering all the main points. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you.. your welcome.
Excellent video. Well done. I learned a lot from this video. Thank you very much.
Thanks.
Very good I informative tutorial cracks are a pet peeve of mine I get alot of hairline cracks in my old property especially in my bathroom. I recently had to large movement cracks in my hallway but my Landlord just did a basic skim job and the cracks came back after 10 months. This is what they were going to do but did the lazy option twice. I just did my own repair and will see how long it lasts :)
Thank you, yes cracks can be a problem two types of crack.... something drying out.. or movement cracks... first one easy to sort out.... second one you need to stop the movement Foam!!
That was a very good video very informative and a very good way also the only permanent wayof dealing with cracks ... you and your brother are true pro's which is very good to see
Thanks.
Brilliant. Never knew you could fill cracks with foam.
Coat of pva on top of crack
.tape it with fiba tape .then 1 coat filler 2 coats velvet .sand paint and its gone ..easy
Your videos have been so helpful. If i saw you in the pub, I’d definitely buy you a pint, so have one on me with thanks.
Oh thank you mate very kind of you.
Glad we can help👍👍👍👍
I would strongly recommend at least two coats of pva -first coat will soak in way to much to then apply expanding foam or filler . Other than that good stuff .
Thanks.
Don't need pva at all on plaster jobs.
IAM watching this several times, great video,
Thank you
Thats so smart. And requires minimal work. I love the drill method.
Thank you.
Great work..great idea with the PVA, never heard of it ( but im an electrician, so why should I right..lol).I live in queens ny, in an appt building that was built in 1954, so all my walls are plaster. ive been just patching all the hairline cracks, that keep coming back-driving me nuts. now I know why. you are very intelligent in your trade, mate!Ive been using that quick set drywall compound, that is pink, when applied, then when its dry it turns , to let you know its dry to paint. please help, in advance, my gratitude.. ty
Thank you.
I've got a place in Rego Park with the same problem . Cracks always come back because the walls still have movement. Wondering about this system here that puts a membrane over the crack or the whole wall if needed. In the distant past I've read good things on it but have not pulled the trigger to buy it yet as my cracks are not that many but someday I probably will : spec-chem.com/how-to-fix-plaster-wall-cracks/
Love the box of used sandpaper, that's old school!
It's all about least amount of waste.
Thank you so much for the information you have given . So nice to find a genuine person that can help. Thank you.
Great video thanks! Do you ever repair lathe and paster cracks... Simllar technique? What do you do if the horse hair lime plaster has debonded from the lathes?
Thanks, remove the loose plaster and replaster using a recommended plaster for it. If its just small patches any plaster or filler will do.
Great insight into a true tradesman . Brilliant video.
Thank you.
Very helpful, any videos or advice for cracks on an internal block wall?
cormaccrawley that depends on how much movement. If it's just a crack you can use the same method in the video. But if you have movement you may need to under pin. Or use metal rods which sit across the crack and are glued in place to stop the crack pulling apart.
that pva over your scraped back emulsion helps to stabilise it too, for filling.
Thank you for your complete instructions. So very helpful, you are truly a perfectionist
Thank you.
Nice to know PVA can be used to seal bare plaster prior to painting, would you suggest being used as an alternative to a mist coat on new plaster if so what ratio would you recommend? Good video btw thanks for all your professional advice keep up the good work sir 👍
I wouldn’t recommend using PVA as a substitute for priming newly plastered walls as it will just create a skin on the surface and not get drawn into the plaster. This will lead to the paint blistering and eventually falling off.
Great awesome video. I learned how to repair a crack on the wall the right way. Thanks to your patient teaching style. :)
Thank you, sorry for the late reply.
I use toupret lite filler dries quick and is flexible for a quick job and customers happy it doesn't cost them a lot of money 💰 job done
What if there's no brick behind the wall. It's just hollow. Would you then do the same as the ceiling and just make holes and not scrape with a blade?
You always need to widen and clean out the crack...always
Great video as always thanks - do you have any videos on filling holes in lath and plaster walls? Would expanding foam also work in this case? Thanks
Thanks.. yes we have playlists on filling. Thanks
The problem with taking it back to the brick is that no one wants to pay to have their whole house knocked off and dabbed/floated out. And even then you can never guarantee that you won't develop hairline cracks. I always give those two options. Dab it all. Or just hack out the worst of the blown plaster patch up and skim. But i always say you may or may not develop hairline cracks doing it that way.
Jaime Hewitt electrical panel video
Get a life sad sack "i live my job"
Has Harry had you dna tested yet?
Love that you never throw away stuff. 🌈
After watching this superb video, I have subscribed to your channel and looked through all of your videos. Firstly a big thank you, good strong, calm and sensible advice, top tips even the one about stress when decorating was an inspiration for someone who only does it occasionally and tends to try and rush things, then gets annoyed at the results, I think I may come back and watch that one alone - every time I embark on a decorating task:) THANK YOU your a star
Thanks very much.
@Mohammed Ibrahim No, generally you only sand a flat surface, so no sanding embossed papers. Everything gets checked over for lumps things to sand back. If done correctly future decorating does not take as long.
@Mohammed Ibrahim There's a little-known but foolproof defence against sharks.
Sharks will only attack you if you're wet.
You need a good sense of humour and to enjoy painting and decorating to get the perfect finish and the buzz of satisfaction.
Sammy DeHavilland i
You’re my HERO, I needed this
Hello and thanks for your help. I was wondering why you don’t show after paint 🎨 is done
Thanks... so much work to do but you can see the finish in another video it's in the description.
Painting and Decorating Hello. Which foam filler do use
Thank you, when I undertake any painting in my home, i tape the entire metal casing and the handle using masking tape. When I’m done painting and after washing the brush i remove the tape .The paint brush will still look like new. Remove the tape immediately after you have finished washing the brush. Use fine sand paper to remove adhesive that remains behind from the masking tape.
This way of repairing cracks is good ( filling up whith urethane) but do not over fill ... cause this stuff expands and could ad pressure on plaster if not rid of the loose or unstable plaster choose the one that expands less.... just saying ( 40 years experience whith plaster)
Very useful. Just a few questions, anyone can assist please - 1. At 9:00, how long before you apply the foam do you wait for the PVA to dry? 2. At 10:50, how long should you leave the foam to settle for before slicing off the excess? 3. Can I paint the same day?
If you start early you should get it painted.. no need to wait for the PVA to dry.. and the foam takes about an hour to cure... thanks..