Top 5 pole barn mistakes. These are the top 5 mistakes I have made building our pole barn.
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- Опубликовано: 11 авг 2020
- These are the top 5 mistakes I have made (So far) while building our pole barn. If you have built a pole barn or any kind of barn and made mistakes please leave a comment below and tell us about your mistakes so we can all learn from each other. DIY pole barn. Post frame barn.
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Here is the link to building pole barn part 2 • DIY 40 x 60 Pole Barn ...
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A 6x6 will take that weight just fine man.
I build these things for a living.
Wow thats great to hear. I love hearing from professionals. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I hope you don't mind if I pin your comment to the top so others can see it.
Ya the weight of that truss is insignificant compared to the overall loads they will see from being the building, esp if you live where there is much of a snow load, so if the 6x6 are good for that size building the heavy vs non heavy duty truss is pretty irrelevant. Nice building.
Yes seems I was thinking the same thing a 6x6 is basically a small tree. Very strong.
I would think combo of old vrs new would be less relevant if they are all at same relative moisture content.
Nit sure why your old ones had those issues.
I used to tare down and sell antique Barn beams etc.
And have built with them in fact I'm sitting in my living room right now which is post and beam antique lumber I got from one of my barn dismantle.
My horse barn was a 100 year old barn I took down in a town about 50 miles from here.
I wonder if the "old" lumber was stored in a very dry environment somehow?
I.E. sitting in a garage on cement or basement?
Because it seems the where dry enough to absorb moisture and where effected by that.
Typically (up here in Maine) outside lumber will dry to about 30% relative moisture just by being outside.
Also the leveling. I think if you didn't put gravel down it would have mattered a hill of beans as eventually in regular non compact able Earth the weight of your tractorandnor equipment would have cause it to lose level anyway.
Making a gravel pad where Wright will be helps to keep things level longer
Still looks like a good job for mostly working alone.
Keep up the good work
So much GREAT information!!! Thank you for sharing such valuable information! Your barn looks fantastic!
Thank you! I appreciate your kind words.
Thanks for sharing!
Your welcome. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Thank you. That was informative.
Thank you.
We plan on doing one this fall. Thanks for sharing that
Good luck. If you have any questions let me know.
Thanks for sharing this information - extremely helpful and greatly appreciated as I'm in the early stages of planning a pole barn. More importantly, I hope that you're ultimately happy with your work - in spite of the minor challenges it LOOKS GREAT!
Thanks. Yes we are very happy with our barn. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video and especially sharing your mistakes. Although this may have been hard to do, it was very valuable to me and probably others. Thank you so much for sharing.
Jim, Thank you for your kind words. I am glad it was helpful. As humans it is always hard to admit when we make mistakes, but it is how we grow and learn. It was kind of a spur of the moment video. I was working on my barn and realized how many mistakes I had made and thought someone else might be able to learn from my mistakes so I quit working and shot the video. I am going to make a video this week with the top 5 things we love about our barn in case you are interested. Thanks for watching.
Good video. Thanks for the headsup.
Thank you and your welcome. In case you are interested we have 3 parts to our building a pole barn series ( so far). Here is the link - ruclips.net/video/JFfA6-yDySs/видео.html Thank you for watching.
Very helpful video! Thanks.
Thank you.
Thank you. You have my respect!
Your welcome and Thank you. Thanks for watching
Floor looks fine for a barn! Its a beautiful structure, thank you for sharing especially any details.
Thank you. We love our barn. We made mistakes but nobody is perfect. LOL Thanks for watching.
Appreciate the video. Thank you.
-Steve
Hi Steve, You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Wow thanks for your advice!!
Your welcome and thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing what you learned so others can not make the same mistake.
Your welcome. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the info brother 👍
Your welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, Sir !
Your welcome! Thanks for watching.
appreciated this vid!
Thank you. Thanks for watching.
Very useful to learn about those mistakes. Particularly the need to level beyond the dimensions of the barn itself. I am about to build a 20' x 30'. But if I had the sealer problem, I would paint the floor over the sealer, maybe a light grey. Thanks for your video!
Thank you. I am glad it was helpful.I fixed the sealer by sanding it lightly. Good luck on your build we really love our barn, Thanks for watching.
I really like your design
Thank you. Thanks for watching.
thx appreciate this
Your welcome.
I like your opening line. Just to be clear morals are indefinite and a person can have morals without outside influence of any kind.
You are correct. Very well put.
My 8x8 post twisted as well at the top too. But after I had truss and metal on it
I wouldn't have thought about an 8x8 twisting. Thanks for sharing so other people will know an 8x8 can twist also.
frequently now you see the posts being made out of 3 2x6s put together. This helps keep them from twisting and staying true.
Yes that is what I will do next time. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
hi there i think it looks great . it is only a mistake if you can't fix it . its a lesson . in the long run they won't realy matter . biggest mistake is worrying about them . good luck be careful and safe john.
John, Thank you. You are correct we learn from our mistakes. Henry Ford once said “The only real mistake is the one from which we learn nothing.”
Most all of the pressure treated 6x6 poles in my pole barn twisted also. Trees grow radially (spin as they grow.) Poles are cut when it’s green, then as they dry, the pole twists back the other way radially. The longer the post, the more you will notice. That’s life, don’t beat yourself up. Barn is looking great! -Robert
Thank you, Great advice and knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
Trees contain a lot of natural tension caused by wind.a good lumber tree in an area of low wind will be nice and straight as long as they don’t grow too fast.
Commonly called wind shakes or wind shook in the sawyers lingo
Thank you for posting your video. How did you get the trusses up? Did you do a video on that?
Thank you for your question. Here is the the link to the video of us putting up the trusses.
ruclips.net/video/N3pacdAEDyQ/видео.html
Trilaminated 2x6 making a 6x6 keeps this from happening. All poles should have stayed in the weather and sun at the same time. The heat on the sunny side will cook wood causing it to warp. New 6x6 will still twist as they dry.
Wayne, great info. thanks for sharing. I will use laminated poles next time. I wish I would have known this before I built mine. Thanks for watching.
Nice barn! My 30x36 Barn has been up for about 8 years now with concrete flooring and my poles have twisted too. I'm wanting to enclosed it but I know it's going to be aggravating with the twisted poles.
Thank you. Yes it is aggravating. But a few shims and some nailer boards and it can be done. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Exactly. This is what we used to do when pole barns had actual round poles.Just start with the furthest part sticking out from the side and shim the rest to that.
If you want to use a post that will not turn into a hockey stick, build them out of 4- 2x6's. It's not that tough to do .
Just make sure you lay them together to have the grains and crowns opposing each other and assemble on a
straight surface. Also, use a heavy duty post anchor embedded into wet concrete pilons. Don't bury the posts
in concrete below grade. PT doesn't mean it will never rot, it only means it is rot resistant. Even for ground contact
rated stock.
And there's no guarantee an 8x8 would twist any less...It is just yellow pine.... Which, before PT came along was
considered junk wood and not fit for anything but pallet construction. Mostly because of this tendency to go bananas
as it dried. And don't forget how pressure treating is done...by forcing waterborne preservatives and insecticides
under immense pressure and saturating every cell of the wood. Sort of like the opposite of kiln drying.
Sorry for your hard lessons. Kinda takes the fun out of what should be an exciting and rewarding project.
Wow great information. Thanks for sharing.
A lot of builders glue and nail laminate 3 2x6s together for the posts. A lot less likely to warp that way.
Thank you for sharing. I will build that way on my next barn. Thanks for watching.
Professional crews are going to have the advantage of framing so fast the posts won't have time to warp. One time we had to set the posts a couple of months in advance, so I put a temporary girt near the top both inside and outside. That pretty well prevented the problem.
If you had to bring in fill, that is mostly a good thing. You can never be elevated too much to prevent runoff coming in.
I'm not an engineer, but the weight of the trusses are insignificant to a 6x6. We use a wooden bolted truss that weighs maybe three times that. The post size with our engineering is dependent upon the height of the building and the wind resistance needed. Even then the design would only change to 6x8 (or larger) with the relevant size in the direction of the truss (6x8, 6x10, 6x12). My non-engineer opinion in this case is that the lean-tos give you all the extra strength you need.
I don't get the guy saying to only roof one side at a time. Any section adequately screwed down is going to pretty well lock it down. Maybe he has a much lighter frame than I am used to. If the girts and purlins are widely spaced - there might still be some flex. In fact if you had two lean-tos already framed and metaled, you did really well to spread the one truss's posts. Good thing for you it was tight - not loose. Tight will stay forever. Loose - pulled in - might in some circumstances pull back out. Which reminds me, when I build (many post are already warped right out of the lumber yard); the general rule of thumb is to set them crowned out - meaning leaving the top of the post leaning in - then frame the top to exact measurements before framing walls - leaving the mid point where ever it happens to lie. If those posts happen to be the door post, you have one more chance. We trim the door jambs with a 2x8. If you can find a badly crowned 2x8; I have seen it used to completely straighten a 6x6 as you align each to the other and nail it.
When I hear commentors extolling their skill at picking lumber that remains straight, or see someone culling boards until he gets the perfect ones; I am laughing, ridiculing them in my mind. The mark of a skilled, master, carpenter is how straight and true he can build with the bent and crooked stuff. They are broadcasting their lack of skill and don't know it. I remember as a boy helping my dad build a house, we started framing and he taught me to set aside and save all the badly crowned 20'- 2x4s. He taught me to use them as the double top plate (a critical spot to get and keep straight). We would match (I probably mean mismatch) opposing crowns to end up with walls that were straight, and they remained straight. Whereas two straight boards (not yet warped) may very well warp out in the same direction. Years later as I got into the post frame business, a master carpenter taught me the 2x8 door jamb trick, and he would select bowed girts and install them on the walls adjacent to each other (one above - one below - with opposite bows); then when the metal was attached they straightened each other. One job, the customer (an engineer naturally) would come out at night and remove the two bent boards. We could never convince him that the bent boards would remain straight, where as two straight ones might result in a bowed wall section.
Kelly, Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. It is great to hear from a professional. If you don't mind I am going to pin your comment to the top. this is the video where we set the trusses.ruclips.net/video/N3pacdAEDyQ/видео.html 1 inch was very hard to get after the lean-tos were built. Thanks for watching
Good to know! We're about to start on ours in a couple weeks. Site prep is close... Blessings!
Hope this video helped. Good luck with your build. Just in case you haven't seen this here is the link to the top 5 things we love about our pole barn. God bless. ruclips.net/video/UGPOIZN-IIc/видео.html
@@HippieHillHomestead
Thanks man! That was trippy at the beginning how you are standing on the roof talking while we're seeing the image from the camera on the ground. So yeah, it's quite the venture doing everything for the first time. My son is getting this baptism by fire but admirably so, being diligent and not getting lazy about investigating options and procedures. Right now we're in the process of sourcing and hopefully in a couple weeks we will be getting started on installing the poles. Kinda psyched!
@@elgringoec Thank you. It sounds like you have done your homework and have a good plan.Enjoy the time with your son building your barn. I know it is very exciting getting to build a new barn. Enjoy and good luck. If you have anymore questions just ask.
If you use three laminated 2x6 instead of 6x6, you will not have to worry about twisting and bowing near as much... a lot of new construction builds are going that route.
@@yukoncornelius8669
Right on, man. Shipping was delayed but we're told they're going on the truck tomorrow and we're looking for them to pull up Mon or Tues. Perma-columns and glue-lams. Got the site flat, gravel delivered, big auger bit hooked up and tested, laser level should be here tomorrow. Other material lists being compiled and ordered. Plan is to seat the columns level and plumb then build wall sections with the glue-lams and girts and stand them up into the column brackets as units. We'll see how it goes! 😬
Say HI to Rudolf and Hermey from us. 😆
If you want stronger posts, sister 2x6 along both sides and a 2x10 across the face on the inside. Fasten with spikes or constriction screws every 16 inches on both sides, edges of nail patterns staggered by 8 inches so it looks like footsteps in the snow.
What a great idea! That would make it so much stronger. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
If you put another coat of sealer over the top of the first coat it should fix the unevenness of the finish. The reason you see the stripes is due to the overlapping edge has more build up. I would not waste time stripping the first coat, it should even out. Another option would be to use a satin or matte finish sealer not high gloss.
Great, Thank you very much.
Why even bother sealing it.my folks had a barn over 80. Years old and the concrete was like new unsealed just watch if there is ant salt licks around don’t put them on concrete
Also using two low of a knap. A thicker knap will reduce this greatly
Twisting/bowing/cracking is the main reasons in Southern Illinois/Missouri/Kentucky/Tennessee and Indiana that we use 2x6 laminated/screwed poles instead of solid 6x6s.
Great idea. This is a real problem in TN.
I am down in Houston TX. I was debating solid post vs laminated. I feel like with the heat, and humidity I would be better off laminated. Any thoughts?
I did some 6x6 posts for my gate, and they warped so bad I had to dig them up.
@@scottwhite9977 If you have already had trouble with 6x6 twisting then I would go with laminate. Good luck and if you have anymore questions please ask.
RR Buildings uses them in all of his builds, the 2x6 laminated that is.
@@HippieHillHomestead even up north laminated are number one thing to use. Steel is the only thing that is better.
I have been using laminated post for 20 years.
Northern Wisconsin boy.
I like your steel trusses.
Concrete Sealer is priced primarily on the amount of "solids" in the mix... Cheaper sealer has a lot more solvent, so it looks good when applied, but as the solvents evaporate out, it always looks like that.
Just clean it off, spray or roll some Xylene over it to make is "soft" again and put another coat on... that will improve the bond from the old sealer to the new...
Sealant is also the UV protection so if it weathers in the direct sun, the variations in the sealer coverage will also make it sun-fade in the same pattern... FYI.
Great information thanks for sharing.
I would use gravel to fill on those lean-to sides not dirt. Dense grade or a #11 or 1/4 by zero fill that will pack. 6x6 posts usually work just fine although I think I would have went with laminated posts instead I think they are better and don't warp and twist as bad. I have been around constructuon indusrty alot but I am about to build my own I think I am gonna go with these styke trusses.
Yes you are correct. I wish I would have used laminated posts. I will use laminated posts on my next one. Thank you so much for the advice.
you can also use 3 or 4 laminated 2x6.
That is exactly what I will do for any future builds. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and thanks for watching. That is what I did for building my stalls. Here is a link to that video.ruclips.net/video/W68U5p77VW4/видео.html
If you buy laminated poles the twist doesnt happen.
Do not put on girts before trusses.
Dont use dirt for base under lean to, use crushed concrete or gravel.
You might try and etch that sealer and add a second coat with a sprayer. If you can have somebody spray and somebody backroll which allows a faster job and a better wet edge.
👍
Great advice. I ended up putting more dirt and them gravel crusher run on top of that to level it up. It worked out ok just more work than if I would have leveled and packed it at the same time. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. That is some great advice.
I build these every day . An inch is nothing . we just push it out and connect..you did good, all this material warps
Greg, thank you. It is great to hear from a professional. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Don't take that as a negative, you're lookin great there. I have a sawmill and the timbers milled from smaller logs with the round center of the tree in the middle, tend to twist as they unwind in the sun.
Great information. Thank you for sharing. Thanks for watching.
Im building my third one at my farm. I needed to save money so I purchased rough-cut treated posts from a local sawmill. They are bigger and sturdier but more likely to twist. After twisting was such a problem on the first barn. I hand-selected the posts of the second, culling about a third of the ones in the stack while looking for the grain and knot patterns that had been present in the ones that had previously twisted. We also sped up the truss mounting to get ahead of any twisting. This yielded great results with only 1 or 2 showing any twist. My last barn was 40x80. I didn't see anything about where you are located, but here in NC we had a monster snowstorm the next day after getting finished with the roof of the barn. The snow load was incredible and collapsed barns all over the area. Mine stood strong but the pile of snow that slid off was enormous. My point is your lean-to has to be able to handle that snow load because it's all coming straight off onto the lean-to. Most of the time a lean-to has less of a pitch and won't shed the snow as well as the barn roof did. Just something to consider if you are in an area that sees occasional heavy snows.
Matthew. Great information thanks for sharing. We live in TN and we do get an occasional big snow ( once every 5 years or so) Thanks for letting me know. That is a lot of weight coming off the barn. I wonder what they do up north where they get a lot of snow? Thank you so much for letting me know.
@@HippieHillHomestead I wonder if on the day that snow comes it would help to get some heat going in the pole barn before a lot of snow accumulates on the roof.
@@matthewpoteet8876 To funny. I was thinking the same thing. I am going to try it.
did you guys get a lot of snow this time? We did but it was so dry and windy that it rolled of the roofs a didn't accumulate.
@@matthewpoteet8876 Yes we got 7 inches of wet snow. It was only 31 degrees so it was a heavy wet snow.
Thanks for showing telling the boo boo s and well see ya next time see ya bye.
Thanks for watching.
At lest you know your mistakes, a lot of people still doing mistakes after mistakes and they can't acknowledge they did mistakes . the best thing you said "so we can all learn from each other mistakes"
Thank you, I make mistakes every day and I hope by sharing it helps others.
@@HippieHillHomestead Yes, you are helping .
If you don’t know you made a mistake does it really matter?who knows it’s a mistake.......NOBODY
First time here, new sub. My son and I built our super insulated homestead and a few other buildings over the years -- the last being a super insulated addition to the homestead (videos on our channel). In your case I would have use laminated poles barn poles not 6 x 6's. The ones sold around here have ground contact treated wood for the bottom 6' or-so they southern yellow pine above that. There are also concrete and steel sections you can use below the ground and wraps of fiberglass, etc... but, with the price of lumber currently, steel all the way around may be more economical 😊
Thank you for subscribing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. If I were starting to build another barn now, I would definitely be looking at steel. lumber prices have tripled here this summer. I wish I would have used laminated poles on mine but live and learn. That is one of the main reasons I made this video, to share with others so they don;t make the same mistakes I did. I went and subscribed to your channel, you all are like us, you have a lot going on.
@@HippieHillHomestead Thanks for the sub! I make my fair share of mistakes as well! I jut accept them and figure out a way to move on 😊 As far as that crook in your post, you mat be able to pull it out using a 2 x 10 that also has a crook, then yank the two together and lag it in place. Make sure to ratchet the post plumb as you are doing it. Good luck!
Morals are subjective and fluid .. What it is okay today may not be so tomorrow ! The unexamined life is not worth living ! (Socrates ). Just wanted to say that A man who admits his mistakes is a real man indeed !! Pole barn looks great !! Stay safe !!
Thank you so much for your kind words. I love Socrates quotes!!! He was way ahead of his time and his philosophy and paradoxes still stand true today.Thanks for watching.
My neighbor lost his 40'x60'x14' pole barn during hurricane Sally. His mistake:
1) using a nail gun with what appeared to be 12D nails for the purlings, even 5 per side didn't hold.
2) didn't use washers on the nut side of the steel truss. The nuts pulled thru the truss end plate.
3) used an in the center screw pattern on the metal siding instead of placing the screws closer to the rib.
4) didn't use the correct post hole size. The hole appeared to be 12" instead of 16" which looked like it allowed the poles to lean after the ground was soaked.
5) I didn't see any cabling or cross bracing on the back side of the purlings.
David, Wow I hate to here about his loss, I would be sick to lose our pole barn. These are some great points. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
I done all this the hard way, 2 7/8 oilfield pipe with a pipe header. Bolted the steel trusses to the pipe. no twist and they may rust, but it will be a while.
Wow what a great idea. I would love to see that. Thanks for sharing.
Something I just learned from "The Polebarn Guru" is to only put the metal on 1/2 of the roof at a time-makes it easier to pull it back into square as you go along if that is needed. By starting at one end and doing both sides of the pitch as you go, you stiffen the entire structure and make squaring it up much more difficult...
Very cool. I have never heard that. What a great tip!!! Thanks for sharing
The last deck I built used 12' pressure treated 6x6's. there was one in particular that corkscrewed badly on me and it happened to be the one most prominent, at the stairs. You can't miss it going up or down the stairs and it drives me crazy to this day knowing this. I feel your pain.
I know most people won't notice it but you will always know its there. 😀 stuff like that drives me crazy also. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.
@Hello Mike Council how are you doing
@@lydiacapps709 I'm good. How are you? Have we met?
@@gone2dmtns I hope we can get to know each other and can you suggest a way we can talk off here if you don’t mind Mike
Diagonal bracing between 6x6's will help stability. Otherwise 6x6 -10 feet on center should be good enough ! Anything over 10feet on center I use 8x8's.
Wow. Great information. Thanks for sharing.
I have used treated laminated posts, made for post frame barn, and never had a problem. They are well worth the extra money. You can order them from a good lumber yard not a big box store.
Great advice.If I build another barn I will definitely use laminated posts. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
One thing I've noticed with posts or any kind of lumber, if they are cut from the center of the tree, they will almost always twist. I never buy any lumber cut from the center of the tree. Of course laminated is the best. Also, it's almost impossible to straighten wood once it's bent or twisted. Having said that, getting framing up quickly before it dries and twists does help somewhat.
Tom, great info. thanks for sharing.
@Aleph Leonine I have learned my lesson. I will use laminate from now on.
Wet wood warps. Coat the end grain with heavy paint and let them dry outside under cover before trying to build with them.
Greg, Great tip. I will try this in the future. Thanks for sharing.
That’s what I do dry them nice and on a level setup
boughing columns because those trusses don't have a strong enough bottom cord in compression to counteract balance the top trusses downforce tension. 3 ply wood is exponentially stronger structurally than solid wood. engineering basics. complete lateral bracing sheathing is important for shear strength before putting loads on top of the columns.
Great info. Thanks for sharing
Always use laminated 6×6 poles. Before placing them into the ground, I coat 4' with fiberglass cloth & resin to prevent rot forever
Wow that is a great idea! That would prevent rot forever. Thanks for sharing
Plastic 5 foot sleeves at Home Depot, is the only way to go. Anyone on here use them ?
@@jimeisenhard7729
Plastic? Not confident in its longevity. I'd pay for fiberglass supplies.
@point / order on line
Great idea
During the 1990's I helped build 6 pole barns while working for a general contractor. We never had a pole twist on us. Poles used to be cut from straight-grained trees. I'm planning a log home currently and have spent three years reading everything I can find on the subject. Trees that have a left hand twist are useless for anything except maybe fence posts while right hand twist is only slightly better. The pole you showed on the back wall had a left hand twist and should have never been cut as a pole. Just bad lumber being sold nowadays and it's a crying shame. Great work so far. Good luck.
Kenny, Thank you for sharing this information. I have never heard of that before. If I were going to buy some more poles at a lumber yard, How could I tell if they had a right or left hand twist? thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
@@HippieHillHomestead
I don't know what he's talking about either. You wouldn't buy em twisted, that happens as they age and dry out. Hard to picture how one would know which way they're going to twist ahead of them actually doing so.
@@elgringoec My mistake Guys. Sorry. I should have said a STRAIGHTER grain . Trees have different degrees of twist and in different directions. If you look at enough pines you can actually tell by the bark which direction and how bad the twist is. Probably hard to find a large enough tree to cut nice poles from nowadays.
Ive built a hundred or so just like what you got there. There is not much you can do about the twisting and bowing, other than using laminated posts. You get an eye the poles that are gonna warp and twist after awhile and so long as its not gonna be exposed, just lock it in quick so it cant move too much and cover it with sheetmetal.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The next one I build will have laminated posts.
Howdy new subscriber from Cumberland Wisconsin same first name just different state lol.
Thanks for subscribing. Cumberland Wisconsin home of beaver dam lake. Welcome
@Hello Scruffy how are you doing
@@lydiacapps709 doing good how about you.
@@scruffy6151 good thanks for asking I hope we can get to know each other if you don’t mind
@@lydiacapps709 what do you want to know
As to your "Twisted Sixter" (apologies to Dee Snider) woes, this is why it is better to use 2 x 6s & ply three of them together to form each pole. This way you can also use shorter sticks, staggering or offsetting the joints and thus use non-treated 2 x 6s once you are 2+ feet above grade.
Great idea. Just like building a header. That would save money also.Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@HippieHillHomestead
We've ordered ours already made that way. "Glue lam" they're calling them. And we're using concrete posts into the ground, called "perma-column". That's the plan, anyway!
@@elgringoec Sounds like you have a good plan. You shouldn't have any problems. If I ever build another one that is what I would do.
@@HippieHillHomestead
That part is ordered and delivery scheduled!
Blessings!
@@elgringoec Good deal. Vert exciting. Happy building.
Alot of comments about "use 6 x 6 laminated posts". They dont twist at all? How much more to just run a steel truss that goes all way down to the floor?
@FredFlintstone21 I didn't price steel columns, but as high as lumber is now if I were building another one I would look into using steel.
@Hello Fred how are you doing
Great tips, your barn is looking good. Where did you buy the trusses?
Thank you. I bought my trusses from Parker metal supply in Sparta TN.
@@HippieHillHomestead I would give them a call but they are a little far from North West Arkansas. Either way your diy project is inspirational, thank you for responding. Good luck!
@@VicenteGarcia-ic3tz Thank you. Good luck with your project.
If the sealer only has visual discrepancies, wouldn't it be fine to sand/buff out the lines a little then use the better sealer?
Good idea. I will do a little research and try it. That would be better than having to strip the whole floor.
After a little research it looks like I could have used a dry roller as I applied the sealer to help remove the roller marks. I also watched some videos on how to sand out the lines and I am going to try it today. Thank you for the recommendation.
@@HippieHillHomestead Suhweet! Thank you for the update!
I didn’t read through all the comments so someone might have already said this but make sure your lumber is not the center cut. If it’s cut from the center of the tree there’s a good chance it’ll twist. This is true for new or old lumber. Still a nice pole barn!
Yes a few of them did look like they were center cuts probably why they twisted. Thanks for watching.
I think you may regret not lining the roof sheeting with plastic over the rafters to avoid condensation dripping on everything in the barn. I'm no expert but that's what happens in my building.
The main problem with moisture comes from the temperature difference between the top of the metal and the bottom. So the further north you live the more of a problem you are going to have with moisture in the winter time. We don't have much of a problem with moisture because we have plenty of airflow and the temperature inside the barn stays close to the temperature outside . You are correct if you don't have enough airflow and you have a big temperature difference you will get moisture when the sun comes out after a cold night. Great point thanks for sharing.
For some reason the treated poles I get from Home Depot (YellaWood brand) are a lot lighter in color and drier than the darker PT lumber I can get from Lowe's. The Lowe's product (can't remember brand) seems to be much more moist and subject to post-purchase deformation. Just my 2 c. Also, I have a 24x24 pole barn that was built in the '70's by previous owner. He put in a concrete floor in the entire south 1/2 of the barn, and frost heave has cracked the concrete in several places, and put a tilt in the barn. I think I'm going to have to tear it down and either re-build it correctly, or build a new one.
YellaWood brand is definitely higher quality, In my opinion also. I have used their products in the past and you can tell a difference. I am sorry to hear about your barn. Frost heave is a definite concern in northern climates.Thanks for sharing
I'm building the same size building 40x60 and am worried about putting my trusses 10 feet on 6x6 . Are my purlins going to be able to hold longterm, with that type of spacing between each truss?
I have built 3 barns with 10 feet spacing. The main concern is the height of your 6x6's. If you are going higher than 12 feet use 8x8's. Trusses like mine are designed to be 10 feet apart and are rated to 120 mph winds. We had 83 mph gusts a few weeks ago with no problems. Good luck on your build, if you have anymore questions let me know.
I am going to build same exact size pole barn here in east Texas. I sure would like to talk to you!
Former Marine email me hippiehillhomestead@gmail.com and I will send you my phone number and we can talk. You will love your new barn. Thanks for watching
I bought a Walters Building out of wisconsin in about 1984. They put out a 40 year post rot warranty and most posts were rotted out in 20 years or less. They still haven't done anything after I contacted them about it.
Scott, I hate to hear that the poles rotted. They should honor their warranty, that is just bad business. Thanks for sharing.
Yup I have a big shed made with 4x6 in concrete in the ground .really bad idea.some are rotting after 10 years one is rotted right off
I think it is nothing to do with mixed old and new. I think it is because wood you used was different moisture content. But as bottom line, all wood will be bended: solution is either to use dry wood + coating to protect from moisture or go with steel posts. I used 2nd option.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Steel posts would be nice. You don't have to worry about them bending. Thanks for watching.
Awe heck, Perfection is a waste of time,effort, and money when excellence will do! You can easily cover up those HOLLYWOODS when you are finishing the exterior sheet metal and interior walls! As for the concrete sealer stain, just leave it or go over it again with the same stuff in a perpendicular direction.
Great advise. Thanks for the comment.
I agree completely, the dog prints had so much character. And I know you want shiny smooth floors but those are dangerous because they are super slippery do you want something with a little bit of grip to it, in my humble opinion.
I feel better about my pole shed now. I made every mistake you did. I put up my posts and then it was too wet to do anything for about three months. The posts twisted pretty good but I managed. Luckily mine is just an open equipment shed. I would hate to know I had to try and enclose mine with all that twisting and warping those 6x6 posts did. It was my first one and its just for trucks an tractors so it was a great one to learn on. I have since built a couple more and when I applied what I learned from my first one, the others turned out perfect.
Its amazing how much a 6x6 will twist. This is whats great about youtube, we can all learn from each other. Thanks for your comment.
I have found the same problem with buying new 6 by 6 is they Twist on you so bad. Yet it is hard to find good used ones. My question is where did you buy your steel trusses
I ordered them from Parker metal supply. 931-316-6635 Austin Parker. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching
Don’t be so hard on yourself, mistakes are just lessons learned, but I love the southern twang of tuba six’s and tuba four’s lol
Thank you. Yes sir I am from the south, there is no hiding that LOL.Thanks for the comment.
lumber twist and bows, the best way is to keep it wet and install the 2x bracing immediately.
Thats a great idea. I wish I would have done that.
@@HippieHillHomestead I built for 30 years, I learned the person not making mistakes is sitting home doing nothing.
@@robertmccully2792 Thats what my Dad used to tell us every time we made a mistake. Thanks, you just made me smile.
I always use galvanized steel posts in preference to timber. Never have a problem with rot, rust, termites, or fire.
بسیار عالی و دقیق انجام شده .طول و عرض این چقدر است ؟
Width is 12.1 meters and length is 18.2 meters. Thanks for watching.
How much do those metal trusses cost? I’ve been thinking about fixing a pole barn that had the center roof fall in
They cost $3000 for 7- 40 foot trusses. I am very impressed with them.
@@HippieHillHomestead thank you
nice size barn, dont worry to much about the ploe twistin to much, bolt em and go
Thanks David. Thats what I am going to have to do. I was able to straighten them a little, but from the research I have done, once they twist there isn't much you can do.
@@HippieHillHomestead if you can soak them, and then restack strait and redried it might get strait again.
@@davesilvia9711 Thanks David
All 6x6s will twist and bow. There is no stopping it. If you want to make a post that won't twist and bow too much then laminate 4 2x6s hope this helps
Jared, Thank you for sharing. If I ever build another one I will use laminate. Thanks for watching.
You're picking on yourself, it's a good barn. That little pitch away from your pole barn under the tractor is not a bad thing, runoff is a lot better than an area that tends to collect water and be soggy. Poles like to twist and woggle around especially when milled to dimension early. Best thing I've found is to let them hang around for a while in the elements and they'll do their thing then stabilise. Hard to fight their twist. It's a pole barn, would be great if you could let things twist, warp and re-attach with shims as needed. I have a 30'x60' w/corrugated sheet metal but my poles were old phone / power poles. Twist and warp was long over with before the poles ever were used for that shed which is sealed up pretty tight and insulated now and they don't budge. I think your 6x6s will overpower puny 2x6 nails and bolts and they'd always be in a losing situation if you don't let them be then just attach accordingly. Twisted poles aren't terrible, your old 6x6s must not have been exposed to weather much or they'd have moved around already before you built with them.
Thanks. I bet those power poles work great.
I have the problem with nearly all treated lumber, twisting, warping I guess it is too wet. Makes since to by what you need build it and protect it as soon as possible. At the current prices, I buy just what I need and will use quickly... I think the 6x6s should be plenty strong enough and 8x8s is over kill.
@hippiehillhomestead can you tell me where you got the trusses? Price range on them? Thanks for the video!
James Thank you for watching our video. I purchased our trusses through Parker metal supply. 931-316-6635 ask for Austin Parker tell him Bob Hearne gave you his number.Hope this helps. These are great trusses. I will text him so he will be expecting your call.
You can buy the whole kit from Builders Discount
@@HippieHillHomestead great, thanks!
hi im currently wanting to build or i should say pay someone to build a 30x30 x12 but im lost. i don't know if i should go with metal garage or pole barn or wood. i don't know if i want to do a pole barn if the post are going to be in the grown i wouldn't want to do that cause they rot. can they be set on concrete with metal bracket? im proud of you for building this structure your self. i am in between wanting to build it my self but ive never build a structure so im very nervous. any feed back from you hippie hill or anyone out there i would appreciate it.
The kind of building you need really depends on what you are going to use your building for. If you are going to have animals in it then you probably need a pole barn. If it is going to be a shop or something similar then a metal garage would probably best. If you are going to build it yourself make sure you do your research. I have been building structures my entire life. A building this size needs to be engineered correctly for safety purposes.
Did you say you put the post in the ground and then you poured cement around them. Wow
Yes, you heard correct. I dug each hole down to solid rock (about 34" in the ground) and then put 2 coats of cabots waterproofing sealer, and then plumbed each post and poured concrete.
Ya not a good idea.they will rot in a few years being crappy second growth lumber
That's just the nature of wood when it's green treated they come out soaking wet and then they dry out when you stand them up tree's have a lot of tension in them.I have sawed lumber for 25 years and some lumber will twist more than other pieces you may have to make a face frame for the doors
Clyde, Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Thats a good idea to make a face frame for the doors
@@HippieHillHomestead when I seen what happened to your door posts then I figured that would be a way to get the doors to work is make face frame just for the doors
Anyone still use actual telephone posts in pole barn construction? We have one on the farm from the 80s and looking to build another shed for heavy equipment. I'm a bit worried about a wall being bumped with a large tractor and was thinking maybe the old style telephone post construction concreted into the ground would withstand the odd bump.
Yes I would still use a telephone post. Those things are indestructible. I would love to have a bunch of them to build with.
Regarding the old vs new 6x6, are they the same wood species ?
Yes they are. They are both PT Pine
@@HippieHillHomestead ok, I thought maybe one was hemlock or whatever, I know there is more than one grade of PT mat.
Bowed, twisted and cupped lumber is always a pain the ars.
Yes it is, Thanks for watching.
Yep, hind sight is 20/20.
Yes it is. LOL
I agree with another posting, you're being too critical of your work. Don't think the pros don't make mistakes, they screw up all the time. If I had to guess, your barn will be standing long after you're dead and gone. Keep in mind, your barn will stabilize and get sturdy after you get your sheet metal on. It's kinda like making a book shelf or a cabinet. Build it out of 3/4" solid oak, and its weak and shaky, but... put a thin piece of 1/4" plywood on the back and it's solid as a rock.
Thank you for your kind words. You are correct our barn did stabilize after putting the metal on it. Thank you for sharing you knowledge.
what was the brand and name of the $110 "good sealer" ?
Hi Ray, I had part of a can left, I will see if I can find it and let you know. I bought it from our concrete company.
Note to you... the sealer will ''remove itself'' as the u.v. light breaks it totally down... in other words, leave that sealer to die a good death... water runoff is another positive thing... leave that open area with that flow away from structure. Kiln dried is what stabilizes lumber also.
Although a few post barn post alternatives exist that are stable in desired shape.
Great thank you for the information. It is always great to here from a professional.
@@HippieHillHomestead , you are welcome, wish you success... Don't forget some lateral bracing, in all directions. PS The truss manufacturer will specify bearing /contact requirements, I would guess your 6*6 might do well.
@@ForensicCatsLateral bracing is up now and the manufacturer said 6x6's were fine Thank you for your input.
@@HippieHillHomestead awesome ... Remember, over sizing too much is just a waste of $$$. 10 inches of concrete will still carry the same human traffic load of 4 inches... A corvette can only do the speed limit , the same as a Prius... Will your interior place just be for humans or equipment also?
@@ForensicCats I definitely don't want to waste money good point. We will have all kinds of animals and equipment in the barn.
Where did you order your trusses ?
Parker metal supply - 931-316-6635 Ask for Austin Parker
Don't level that side with dirt. You want undisturbed soil. Use stone. If you wanted a wider barn... wider than 40' with the lean to's, why not just order longer trusses? Like 50' or 60'? Seems like that would have been cheaper and easier. And have you thought about putting a second coat of the sealer on a small part, just to see what it looks like? I'd guess it wouldn't take the same amount as the first coat. I would have to say I'd guess the new posts would be the ones with the issues, not the old ones that have already "seasoned". Just wait until the new ones dry out. ;)
George, Thank you for your comment. Great idea using stone, I will try that. 40' trusses are the maximum size I could handle. My truck and trailer had a hard time hauling the 40' trusses( here is the link of me unloading them ruclips.net/video/JFfA6-yDySs/видео.html) If I were to go to 50' I would have had to rent a bigger lift (link to video of us setting trusses ruclips.net/video/N3pacdAEDyQ/видео.html) and that means I would have to borrow a bigger truck and trailer because this was the biggest lift my truck could handle.Also I couldn't have handled 10' longer pieces of metal for the roof. These pieces for 40' were over 23' long. Plus I already had metal and 2x6's that would work on both lean to's so I didn't have to buy more ( I purchased for pennies on the dollar at an estate sale). I thought about putting a second coat on, but before I did I had a viewer that suggested trying to sand the lines lightly and that worked. I used a sanding pad on a pole, only took me about an hour to sand and worked well.Thanks for the questions.
Better off building 6 x 6 with three 2 x 6, less moisture and computing grains will keep it straighter.
You are correct I wish that is what I would have done. If I ever build another one that is what I will do. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge
@Hello Roland how are you doing
where did you purchase your trusses from?
Parker metal supply 931-316-6635 Ask for Austin Parker. They did a great job for us.
The electric company was putting in new electric poles and i ask what they were going to do with the old poles and they would give them away, so they are great to build a pole barn, only thing they are super heavy and will need something to raise them to put them in place.... they will stay straight
Yes they should stay straight. I would love to have some poles like that.You hit the lottery! With the price of lumber sky high you will save a lot of money. LOL Good luck with your build. Thanks for watching
Does this mean its not efficient to use wood to construct a structure I had interest especially when the idea of cost is paramount now am hoping for the case of metal hollow sections and wood I see it more reliable than pure wood its just an opinion am imagining but all good work get focused.
David, If you are going to use wood for your posts, either put your trusses up as soon as possible or use laminated posts. The next one I build I will use laminated posts but yes if you used metal posts you wouldn't have to worry about them. Thanks for watching.
@@HippieHillHomestead thank you.
@@davidndahura7437 You are welcome.
Makes a BIG differance on how lumber is cut at mill.
That is true. Some were milled from the heart of the tree and some from the edge.
Cheap is the most expensive way to go 👍 ( concrete sealer)
You are correct!! I will never make that mistake again. Thanks for sharing.
How wide is the center main barn area
It is 40 feet wide.