Thanks. The SST Tram Jig is a nice piece of calibration equipment; worth the investment. "Screwdriver persuader"...if it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer. Love the outtakes. Only someone who has attempted to do an instructional video can understand. It ain't as easy as just chatting away.
Thank you. I cant believe how much better it is running now. I was worried ading the digital indicator would cheapen the process but I found the dial more difficult to pick up on camera when reviewing the footage.
When i first started 3d printing a few years ago. I printed a adaptor to use a tire thread tool (the tool to check how deep your tire treads are) to help with leveling off the bed. that tool should be easy to make and save ya 100$ precise gauges will still cost ya some not getting out for free:) but can go digital
That sounds like it would work. I've used many different devices (most made in the shop) for different tools. The main thing is being able to obtain accurate results.
I have the same machine. I just got this gauge it’ll be here shortly. Curious if you’ve found making adjustments on the spindle to last awhile, or if you regularly need to perform this operation. I’m starting to feel more prominent lines in my spoilboard, which of course isn’t gonna be acceptable. Will be nice to have the gauge, just wondering how often you do this. Thanks 🤙🏽
Thanks for watching. I check it as needed. The X will have little movement but should be close. If you regularly take deep passes, then that frequency would be more often.
I appreciate this so much bud it has been helpful. Question though... Why only do Y first, tighten everything down just to unbolt and then work on X? I've done this a few times now and I have found rotating the SST dial gauge and slowly easing X and Y in at the same time gets me to finish faster and everything is less than .0005 off....
Thanks for watching. Getting Y right with the correct shim in place was the toughest. If ya do X first, you lose it each time you adjust Y. Once that shim is there, it's not going anywhere, so keeping Y correct is easy. Either way, it's a journey and finding what works for you is key.
Ahhh that makes sense! Once you shim Y correctly then move to X you won't be bouncing around like a maniac. It's probably worth saying though that when you do finally move to X and make adjustments to keep checking your Y and using a little muscle to adjust that as well while slowly tightening everything down.
Did you find the alignment to be out right from the get go? Picking up a new AR8 Pro this weekend and I'm wondering if I need to worry about this after setup? Great videos! Keep them coming, especially anything with your CNC. Thanks.
It was out along the Y about .016". For normal V carve and profe cuts you'd never see it. For thick materials and surfacing it was noticeable. The short time it took to dial it in and the cost of the tramming tool is well worth it. Axiom builds a great machine that runs accurate and strong and this just ensures it keeps running that way.
About a year or so ago. I was having to turn down jobs that required a higher gantry height. I was able to sell my pro for a good price & opted for the elite. WOW, what a machine. So many upgrades vs the pro.
Please do a review of it when you get a chance 🙏🏻. I can’t find any reviews about it and since you also had the Pro and could compare the difference between them from a user perspective. Thanks for posting this video I will watching it again when I get mine.
@@BlueSkinedCrackBaby check my channel. I do have a review with some of the upgrades that are standard on elite. The controller and gantry height alone are worth it.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thanks I will check those out. There’s a lot of really good hands on information on your channel. Once you factor in that the Elite comes with the tool box and the stand, you really do get quite a bit for the money. My thinking was that having a comparison between the Pro model and the Elite would bring in a lot of new subscribers due to your content and as far as I can tell, it would be the only video on the subject. When I went to the website and watched Axioms videos on it the only thing that comes up is that it has servos instead of stepper motors. They don’t really go over the benefits of it over what you would get with the Elite model.
@@ChristcrossCrafts I briefly spoke with you on FB. I asked how you held the spindle up. I'm currently putting hose clamps on now to hold it up. It seems as though I can't get my x tilt to zero out.
@@electronicperformer1 you will have to shim the spindle inside the housing (either top or bottom right or left) because Axiom has pins that prevent the mount from rotating in the X axis. In some cases you may not be able to get it all but that is the only way I found to do it. I had considered removing the mount and enlarging the pin holes or removing them alltogether but that would weaken the integrity of the mount and make it easier for it to lose the setting if it hits something abruptly.
How tf is that "spot on" when you aren't even getting zero on each corner?! Not even close. What's the point of using a tool that is measuring by the thousandth when you are that far off?
This tool registers in .0005". A sheet of paper was too thick when setting up the glass, and made it be even further off. For a machinist, this may be too much. For setting up a woodworking tool that will have more movement than this when operating, due to deflection, it's not.
Um... no. A Trammell is a different tool or measuring device for drawing circles. Tramming is a fine adjustment to ensure proper alignment. Ergo, how to tram a cnc...
@@SeamlessFab "tram" is a redneck version of the proper and original term "trammel". From the tool itself : "trammel points" , used to make a beam compass. but u carrion usang yo rednekk speek, be ma gesst.
It would be a waste to do it prior to tramming. If it's off, then you'd need to tram again. That's why it's key to level the plate to the router/spindle before tramming.
The glass idea is the absolute secret to getting this just right. Bought my two dial gauges and will do this whole process this week to remove the "tramlines" left by an out of true surfacing bit. Thanks for an easily understood video.
Thanks. The SST Tram Jig is a nice piece of calibration equipment; worth the investment. "Screwdriver persuader"...if it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer. Love the outtakes. Only someone who has attempted to do an instructional video can understand. It ain't as easy as just chatting away.
Thanks for watching. It is a very nice set-up jig. Outtakes are my life... One big out take.
Picking up this tool asap.
Worth the investment. Great option for setting other tools as well.
Great video bud. I’ve been meaning to get myself one of those tramming tools.
Thank you. I cant believe how much better it is running now. I was worried ading the digital indicator would cheapen the process but I found the dial more difficult to pick up on camera when reviewing the footage.
When i first started 3d printing a few years ago. I printed a adaptor to use a tire thread tool (the tool to check how deep your tire treads are) to help with leveling off the bed. that tool should be easy to make and save ya 100$ precise gauges will still cost ya some not getting out for free:) but can go digital
That sounds like it would work. I've used many different devices (most made in the shop) for different tools. The main thing is being able to obtain accurate results.
I have the same machine.
I just got this gauge it’ll be here shortly.
Curious if you’ve found making adjustments on the spindle to last awhile, or if you regularly need to perform this operation.
I’m starting to feel more prominent lines in my spoilboard, which of course isn’t gonna be acceptable.
Will be nice to have the gauge, just wondering how often you do this.
Thanks 🤙🏽
Thanks for watching. I check it as needed. The X will have little movement but should be close. If you regularly take deep passes, then that frequency would be more often.
I appreciate this so much bud it has been helpful. Question though... Why only do Y first, tighten everything down just to unbolt and then work on X? I've done this a few times now and I have found rotating the SST dial gauge and slowly easing X and Y in at the same time gets me to finish faster and everything is less than .0005 off....
Thanks for watching. Getting Y right with the correct shim in place was the toughest. If ya do X first, you lose it each time you adjust Y. Once that shim is there, it's not going anywhere, so keeping Y correct is easy.
Either way, it's a journey and finding what works for you is key.
Ahhh that makes sense! Once you shim Y correctly then move to X you won't be bouncing around like a maniac. It's probably worth saying though that when you do finally move to X and make adjustments to keep checking your Y and using a little muscle to adjust that as well while slowly tightening everything down.
Did you find the alignment to be out right from the get go? Picking up a new AR8 Pro this weekend and I'm wondering if I need to worry about this after setup? Great videos! Keep them coming, especially anything with your CNC. Thanks.
It was out along the Y about .016". For normal V carve and profe cuts you'd never see it. For thick materials and surfacing it was noticeable.
The short time it took to dial it in and the cost of the tramming tool is well worth it.
Axiom builds a great machine that runs accurate and strong and this just ensures it keeps running that way.
@@ChristcrossCrafts Just ordered the tool; for the investment you make in the CNC, I want it to make quality cuts. Thanks again for the great videos!
@@lesb.5664 anytime. Thanks for watching!
isn't the machine only trammed to the glass now? won't it be off when you are working on a project without the leveled glass?
No. That's why you set all 4 corners of the glass to the tram jig the way I did. That ensures you have a reference before rotating the jig.
After you do the tramming you need to resurface your spoilboard, so now the spoilboard will be perfectly flat and square to the gantry.
@SchemingGoldberg yes, there's no need to tram it before.
Is it necessary to get mirror glass vs just a regular glass like you're using?
Any glass will work but thicker helps so its not fragile.
Any reason you didn't just do this in the center of your bed and then surface it? Would have been waaaaaay less work.
I chose an area that was easily accessible where I didn't have to lean way in. Where is irrelevant as long as the tramming is done before you surface.
What kind of coolant do you run?
Rv coolant. I haven't needed to replace it yet but standard for rvs.
When did you switch to the Elite?
About a year or so ago. I was having to turn down jobs that required a higher gantry height. I was able to sell my pro for a good price & opted for the elite. WOW, what a machine. So many upgrades vs the pro.
Please do a review of it when you get a chance 🙏🏻. I can’t find any reviews about it and since you also had the Pro and could compare the difference between them from a user perspective. Thanks for posting this video I will watching it again when I get mine.
@@BlueSkinedCrackBaby check my channel. I do have a review with some of the upgrades that are standard on elite. The controller and gantry height alone are worth it.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thanks I will check those out. There’s a lot of really good hands on information on your channel. Once you factor in that the Elite comes with the tool box and the stand, you really do get quite a bit for the money. My thinking was that having a comparison between the Pro model and the Elite would bring in a lot of new subscribers due to your content and as far as I can tell, it would be the only video on the subject. When I went to the website and watched Axioms videos on it the only thing that comes up is that it has servos instead of stepper motors. They don’t really go over the benefits of it over what you would get with the Elite model.
I can, not for the life of me, get this to work
What part are you struggling with? It is horribly time consuming.
@@ChristcrossCrafts I briefly spoke with you on FB. I asked how you held the spindle up. I'm currently putting hose clamps on now to hold it up. It seems as though I can't get my x tilt to zero out.
@@electronicperformer1 you will have to shim the spindle inside the housing (either top or bottom right or left) because Axiom has pins that prevent the mount from rotating in the X axis.
In some cases you may not be able to get it all but that is the only way I found to do it.
I had considered removing the mount and enlarging the pin holes or removing them alltogether but that would weaken the integrity of the mount and make it easier for it to lose the setting if it hits something abruptly.
How tf is that "spot on" when you aren't even getting zero on each corner?! Not even close. What's the point of using a tool that is measuring by the thousandth when you are that far off?
This tool registers in .0005". A sheet of paper was too thick when setting up the glass, and made it be even further off. For a machinist, this may be too much. For setting up a woodworking tool that will have more movement than this when operating, due to deflection, it's not.
Trammel. Not tram.
Um... no. A Trammell is a different tool or measuring device for drawing circles. Tramming is a fine adjustment to ensure proper alignment. Ergo, how to tram a cnc...
Imagine being the owner of this comment.
There’s still time to delete this bro.
@@SeamlessFab "tram" is a redneck version of the proper and original term "trammel". From the tool itself : "trammel points" , used to make a beam compass.
but u carrion usang yo rednekk speek, be ma gesst.
Did you flatten the spoil board BEFORE and AFTER the tram?
It would be a waste to do it prior to tramming. If it's off, then you'd need to tram again. That's why it's key to level the plate to the router/spindle before tramming.
The glass idea is the absolute secret to getting this just right. Bought my two dial gauges and will do this whole process this week to remove the "tramlines" left by an out of true surfacing bit. Thanks for an easily understood video.
Yes you must flatten the spoilboard after tramming. Don't flatten the spoilboard before tramming.