Thanks for the instructions. My difficulties were related to the disconnection and connection of the keyboard ribbon cable and the keyboard light cable. Both have an almost invisible clasp that has to be released to loosen the cables. I used a magnifying lens to see the clasps. It was impossible for me to reconnect these cables with my fingers. To make the work easier with more working space I removed the battery and used a flat end spurge to press the cables against the board, align them to the connectors, and pushed them through their way. Don't forget to return the clasps to the locking position. Reinstall the battery.
Thanks for the Instructions . This is the only late 2011 / 13" guide I could find after 25 min of searching. For future Ref people : make sure you remember the 2:00 bracket and how it sits AND before starting make a big effort to where you place your screws and where they go back , make a crude map if you have to & DNFU
Thanks homie, had this macbook for years and its been smelling hot for awhile. Ton of dust and my thermal paste was fried solid. Was going through it myself, but decided I'd watch a video first. Glad I did because I would have missed the microphone
You should fix that comment. You should say why do you remove it because in the video he says first disconnect the speak, this necessary but later he says remove it, this is not. When I read your comment I thought how will I remove the logic board if not disconnecting it
I'm looking for the same answer as I did clean them along with the CPU and used a new paste, but I'm not sure that was necessary (or even recommended) as they had a different paste (or something). My MacBook improved but just a little...
thanks for this brother! ive been meaning to do it on my macbook pro, but temps are not bad...i will do it one day anyway...ive already done it on the 2010 macbook and it was easy as pie and made a Big difference...i just used silicone heatsink paste, not the fancy arctic silver, yet big change..the factory pastes are really terrible and provide poor het transfers...one important thing, the keyboard ribbon needs to be FULLY seated in connector after board is replaced...easy to think its In when its not fully in there...result is no boot and u think u fried ur board....slide and press it in FULLY then lock clasp and it will boot..
is this the heatsink that has fluid inside it? noticed oily fluid on the keyboard after macbook was disassembled for cleaning etc and upside down for a long time. want to do the gpu, screws are on really hard though.
Thanks for the tut saved my old macbook from the E-waste bin...Was about to buy another old macbook off ebay since they are cheap anyways..but I though meh... why not try fix this first even tho it's a pain to work on macs.. Also getting the keyboard connector back in is hard took me many tries .... I was worried I broke it but you just really got to get it in there just aligning it (which is hard enough already) and pushing it in a bit won't cut it... It will look like it's in but it's not...
Does anyone know which way the DC-in Power Board is plugged into the logic board. I am doing this to my own 2011 13" MacBook Pro and I cannot figure out which way it is supposed to to go in because in the video (around 4 min 27 seconds in) you can't really see which way he plugs it in. Is it prong side up or prong side down?
Hi. I completed the process now, macbook is starting, OS works fine. BUT!: The LED light for the power pupply connector isn't functioning and the battery does not charge. Need advise please.
@@GRIBSOFT thx. did so, the dc-in power board connector was detached, think i wasn't gentle enough. after that led and battery charging as usual. Unfortunately the whole repaste with one of the best thermal compound on the market (Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme) had not brought the effect, which i hoped for. I updated my MacBook to High Sierra recently followed by an slightly elevated cpu usage. I wish i could say how much in comparison to El Captican which i had before, but while using el capitan i never been keen enough to track temperature and cpu usage. The current situation is that as soon as the usage rises above aprox. 35% the temperature reaches 75-80°, causing the fans to start or to freak out if the usage is about to reach 90% and there is nothing you can do about it unless there is a way to throttle the cpu or to disable the boost mode. After 7-8 years of using i7-cpu's, desktop and mobile/notebook i, for myself, can surely claim that those were my last i7 skillets. Also i will definitely think twice about MacBooks purchases.
What types of thermal compound are out there, and what would be best to use? I'd like opinions before I go get some myself, as I think my thermal compound needs replacing
hello thanks for the video. I chaged my thermal paste but temp continue like 77 degrees. DO you think if i buy new heat sink body and change can be fixed?
Thank you for your very helpful instruction video! I nailed it. However, I accidentally broke the facetime cable while pulling it out... I guess mine previously got stuck with dust and stuff.
Can you make a video about replacing the CPU for a newer one? For example, my came with a Intel® Core™ i7-3520M Processor and I want to know if I can upgrade it to a Intel® Core™ i7-3612QE Processor or any similar.
thanks for that, helped me out. Temps didnt change, but i found out issue is I am running bootcamp with windows 10 and for some reason the fan profile is not very good and not even getting loud until CPU hit 100c (212f).. so using 'Macs fan control' for windows now temps r better cause i make fan kick in earlier.
I just replaced the Fan on the Logic Board, because it was clacking and rattling... I want to change the Thermal Paste on it, but I really don't trust myself going that far into removing the whole thing. Although this video does give me some hope if I were to do it.
go slowly taking it off and going on and map where and what screw was from where and where you placed it down . You dont want to FU . If you have a Ifixit kit comes in handy . while open need a slim brush and vacuum to clean off dust and pubes. Watch the cables near battery(south) and the top right north corner BIG TIP !
I followed all the steps, but my computer won't turn on but I hear the fan. It did turn on for a moment, but some of the keys of the keyboard won't work, so I restarted it and now it won't turn on at all. I tried the power pads, but when I attempted it, I saw a spark not sure if I just fried my logic board... PLEASE HELP!
Unplug the keyboard and reseat it. The keyboard has the power button attached to it so if the keyboard is not plugged in correctly then the system can't power up. Unplug and reseat the LCD screen on the top right, make sure that is a flush and sold connection. If you saw a spark then something got shorted, that should never happen, it's bad news. Let us know if reseating cables helped.
This may help u, i ran into issue where i replaced the logic board and there was No powerup afterwards, no screen,no sound,no fans...i thought the board got damaged...all connections seemed plugged in...BUT the Keyboard ribbon was not FULLY pushed into the connector and thats what the issue was...if its not fully in and locked, the board will seem dead and no boot..i had it in the connector ,but when i pulled on it ,it fell out and had not Caught the connector at all... i had to use a small rectangle cut from a creditcard, stiff, to press against the cable and ease it deeper into the socket, then flip the lockdown clamp...booted up fine after that... if u had sparks , well, thats Not good! reseat the keyboard connector as i described and hopefully it will still boot...goood luck!
Skip741 x Thanks for the advice, but I totally forgot to reply back to this question. I got it fixed, but it wasn’t the keyboard connector. I checked there and made sure it was connected and locked in. I even felt the “little lock” that it was in all the way if you know what I’m talking about. After I scared myself of the spark (yeah you shouldn’t see that), I panicked and left it alone for several hours. Not sure if it was a power drain or something, but it turned on by itself again and everything was normal. Of course the heat sink issue was fixed too. Hopefully this helps someone if this happens to you for some reason.
Yes, reconnect the keyboard. The keyboard has the power button connected to it and so if it's sitting in the socket on the loagicboard incorrectly it will not power on.
My screen flashes and goes completely dark if I put the bottom plate screws in. Has anyone else encountered this? I did this a CPU repaste (got excellent thermals at least), so all went well just can't put the bottom screws in or the screen dies. Thanks
+HK Asia Yes, this can improve temperature and decrease fan loudness, besides replacing the thermal paste, you need to clean the dust from the fan and from the fan vent (the area where the fan sits). I have shot over 250 videos for every Macbook model 2008-2012 so far. Here is the link for your model www.appledollars.com/2008-macbook-a1278 it's an interactive video map with a replacement video for every part of that model. Lol the heat sink is the only video not added to the map, here it is www.appledollars.com/new-gallery/2016/3/3/2008-unibody-cpu-heat-sink-replacement-save-apple-dollars-18 Good luck!
thank you very much for this video. i intend to repaste the cpu (late 2011 13") but before that i'd like to know if it's worthwhile? my cpu reaches according to "CleanMyMac" 96° at the top, very often 80-85°.
Hi, what is this other "heat sink" next CPU with two black square? Should i replace the thermal on it too? I cant see if there is paste cause one of those tree screw is striped :( Is possible to find some kind of logic board manual to know exactly what is each component ? Thanks dude, you helped me and others alot! o/
The other sink is a network bridge I think. There is a guy named Louis Rossmann that has a lot of in depth info about manuals and schematics, i'd look into that direction if you want deeper information.
Hi. I have the following problem with my macbook pro 13" early 2011: 4MOT/4/40000002: Exhaust - 7022. Can this solve the problem? My fans are running at +7000 rpm constantly from when i boot up the mac. Resetting the smc doesn't work.
This models heatsink sensor is connected to logic board, make sure the connection is good. Replacing the heat sink might solve the problem. When you do replace it, make sure to rub down the entire logic board with a toothbrush and alcohol, make sure to apply new thermal paste. The fan should be fine it's the thermal sensor or the logic board thats the problem. Grab this while you can: www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-APPLE-MACBOOK-PRO-13-EARLY-2011-HEATSINK-COOLING-FAN-922-9784-922-8620-/301893486289?hash=item464a4106d1:g:38gAAOSwyjBW4Kjx Good luck :)
I retract earlier statement, the temp sensor is on the logic board. It can have moisture or residue on it, so soak the board in 90%+ alcohol and rub the entire board with a toothbrush, this will clean out the sensor. If you really want to get technical, "at your own risk!" you can bake the board at 385 degrees for 7 minutes in any conventional oven, this will reinforce component level connections and reconnect detached connections, this is also referred to as "reflowing". Either way, if alcohol cleaning and new heatsink doesn't fix the issue, you will need to replace the board and I would risk reflowing it before spending 400$+ on a new board. Another option for testing is to download Mac Fan control here and manually turn down the fan speed to a reasonable rpm and see if the cpu temperature is still high, although the data that is displayed is fed through the temp sensor that might be broken, this could be a temporary solution: www.appledollars.com/downloads/
So it can not be the connection from the sensor to the logic board that might be loose? I will try to soak the logic board in 90%+ alcohol. Do i just follow your video about replacing the logic board and then clean it and putting it in again?
Okay thanks! I need to remove the heat sink and the thermal paste and apply new paste and install a new heat sink right? That would get me the biggest chances for it to work right?
you dont have to remove the mic or the speaker to do this job what you showed was a pile of HS, also this is not a heatsink replacemnt video its a repaste you also put to little of paste on as well. much to learn here on how not to do this congrats
7 years after I got this MacBook, it's still humming along, thanks to helpful videos like these. Great tips!
Great to hear it!
Definitely think about getting a Mojave Patcher or Catalina. I have a 2011 Macbook Pro and its running stable versions of Mojave.
You definitely make this look easy. If you've never done this before, I can say it's a challenge, especially those tiny ribbon cables.
Thanks for the instructions. My difficulties were related to the disconnection and connection of the keyboard ribbon cable and the keyboard light cable. Both have an almost invisible clasp that has to be released to loosen the cables. I used a magnifying lens to see the clasps. It was impossible for me to reconnect these cables with my fingers. To make the work easier with more working space I removed the battery and used a flat end spurge to press the cables against the board, align them to the connectors, and pushed them through their way. Don't forget to return the clasps to the locking position. Reinstall the battery.
Thanks for the Instructions . This is the only late 2011 / 13" guide I could find after 25 min of searching. For future Ref people : make sure you remember the 2:00 bracket and how it sits AND before starting make a big effort to where you place your screws and where they go back , make a crude map if you have to & DNFU
Thanks homie, had this macbook for years and its been smelling hot for awhile. Ton of dust and my thermal paste was fried solid. Was going through it myself, but decided I'd watch a video first. Glad I did because I would have missed the microphone
Great instructions, not the easiest task but thanks to this video I now have a 2011 MBP good for another few years!
Why do you disconnect the speaker? I mean you can replace the heat sink without removing it. :D
True, the video was made from many clips and that one just made it in there lol
Thx for clarifying, I was asking myself the same question.
You should fix that comment. You should say why do you remove it because in the video he says first disconnect the speak, this necessary but later he says remove it, this is not. When I read your comment I thought how will I remove the logic board if not disconnecting it
@@IwatchYuTup why would you have to disconnect the speaker? basically you don't need to touch any of that, just the 3 screws
The thernal grease on the other chips of this a1278 motherboard, has to be replaced? Its safe to do it?
I'm looking for the same answer as I did clean them along with the CPU and used a new paste, but I'm not sure that was necessary (or even recommended) as they had a different paste (or something). My MacBook improved but just a little...
straight forward, great instructions. thanks
Thanks
I don't understand why you need to disconnect the speaker and mic at 2:40
Why do you need to remove the microphone and speaker? You still can unscrew and heat sink, right?
He replied elsewhere Quote : True, the video was made from many clips and that one just made it in there lol
Thank you so much for putting up this video. It was very helpful. I was able to fix my computer because of this. :D
+lululadyju Great! I'm glad we can help :)
great video. thank you very much for sharing. my 2011MBP is still going strong but gets warm and i want to do this
Thanks
Thank you, I was able to reduce temps by 10 degrees by replacing the cured thermal paste
thanks for this brother! ive been meaning to do it on my macbook pro, but temps are not bad...i will do it one day anyway...ive already done it on the 2010 macbook and it was easy as pie and made a Big difference...i just used silicone heatsink paste, not the fancy arctic silver, yet big change..the factory pastes are really terrible and provide poor het transfers...one important thing, the keyboard ribbon needs to be FULLY seated in connector after board is replaced...easy to think its In when its not fully in there...result is no boot and u think u fried ur board....slide and press it in FULLY then lock clasp and it will boot..
Very true information about the keyboard ribbon cable, thanks for pointing it out.
is this the heatsink that has fluid inside it? noticed oily fluid on the keyboard after macbook was disassembled for cleaning etc and upside down for a long time. want to do the gpu, screws are on really hard though.
Great video: clear and well structured. Thanks a lot!
Awesome!
Thanks for the tut saved my old macbook from the E-waste bin...Was about to buy another old macbook off ebay since they are cheap anyways..but I though meh... why not try fix this first even tho it's a pain to work on macs.. Also getting the keyboard connector back in is hard took me many tries .... I was worried I broke it but you just really got to get it in there just aligning it (which is hard enough already) and pushing it in a bit won't cut it... It will look like it's in but it's not...
I was given this laptop for free. And upon repairing it the gpu heatsink is missing. Do you know where I can buy one?
Does anyone know which way the DC-in Power Board is plugged into the logic board. I am doing this to my own 2011 13" MacBook Pro and I cannot figure out which way it is supposed to to go in because in the video (around 4 min 27 seconds in) you can't really see which way he plugs it in.
Is it prong side up or prong side down?
The prongs goes side down
Maluco é brabo, limpa pasta térmica do processador com toalha de rosto. kkkk
Hi. I completed the process now, macbook is starting, OS works fine. BUT!: The LED light for the power pupply connector isn't functioning and the battery does not charge. Need advise please.
Usually means something is not connected all the way. Best thing to do it take it back out and reinstall it all over again so you don’t miss anything.
@@GRIBSOFT thx. did so, the dc-in power board connector was detached, think i wasn't gentle enough. after that led and battery charging as usual.
Unfortunately the whole repaste with one of the best thermal compound on the market (Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme) had not brought the effect, which i hoped for. I updated my MacBook to High Sierra recently followed by an slightly elevated cpu usage. I wish i could say how much in comparison to El Captican which i had before, but while using el capitan i never been keen enough to track temperature and cpu usage. The current situation is that as soon as the usage rises above aprox. 35% the temperature reaches 75-80°, causing the fans to start or to freak out if the usage is about to reach 90% and there is nothing you can do about it unless there is a way to throttle the cpu or to disable the boost mode.
After 7-8 years of using i7-cpu's, desktop and mobile/notebook i, for myself, can surely claim that those were my last i7 skillets. Also i will definitely think twice about MacBooks purchases.
pretty much everything one can do about the problem discussed here is covered in this guide: ruclips.net/video/wIHpb1T6LRo/видео.html
Repast and fresh now thanks to you.
yall should have seen the dust bunny I found in mine
Thanks for the video, just fixed my Macbook ;)
Thank you for this clear video! Just removed the dust pussy that blocked the heat exhaust. And applied nee thermal paste. That was dried down.
What types of thermal compound are out there, and what would be best to use? I'd like opinions before I go get some myself, as I think my thermal compound needs replacing
hello thanks for the video. I chaged my thermal paste but temp continue like 77 degrees. DO you think if i buy new heat sink body and change can be fixed?
It's the next logical step. Heat sink, then the fan, and then finally the logic board.
Ok perfect . Thanks
Excellent video. Thanks so much.
Thank you for your very helpful instruction video! I nailed it. However, I accidentally broke the facetime cable while pulling it out... I guess mine previously got stuck with dust and stuff.
Thank you! You can support us by becoming a Patron or donating to keep our mission going here www.appledollars.com/support-us/
I had the same problem. The iSight camera connector broke.
It is impossible to pull this isight camera cable. How did he do it easily
@@Snackdance me too, I guess it happened to all of us.
Muchas gracias por el video pude seguirlo y cambiar la pasta en mi mbp
Welcome!
Can you make a video about replacing the CPU for a newer one? For example, my came with a Intel® Core™ i7-3520M Processor and I want to know if I can upgrade it to a Intel® Core™ i7-3612QE Processor or any similar.
You can never upgrade the processors on any post 2007 Apple laptop.
thanks for that, helped me out. Temps didnt change, but i found out issue is I am running bootcamp with windows 10 and for some reason the fan profile is not very good and not even getting loud until CPU hit 100c (212f).. so using 'Macs fan control' for windows now temps r better cause i make fan kick in earlier.
Great! Glad you found a work around that works.
I followed exactly the steps of your video but when I turn it on it makes three times beep all the time without being turned on
Something is not connected right.
I just replaced the Fan on the Logic Board, because it was clacking and rattling... I want to change the Thermal Paste on it, but I really don't trust myself going that far into removing the whole thing. Although this video does give me some hope if I were to do it.
go slowly taking it off and going on and map where and what screw was from where and where you placed it down . You dont want to FU . If you have a Ifixit kit comes in handy . while open need a slim brush and vacuum to clean off dust and pubes. Watch the cables near battery(south) and the top right north corner BIG TIP !
I followed all the steps, but my computer won't turn on but I hear the fan. It did turn on for a moment, but some of the keys of the keyboard won't work, so I restarted it and now it won't turn on at all. I tried the power pads, but when I attempted it, I saw a spark not sure if I just fried my logic board... PLEASE HELP!
Unplug the keyboard and reseat it. The keyboard has the power button attached to it so if the keyboard is not plugged in correctly then the system can't power up. Unplug and reseat the LCD screen on the top right, make sure that is a flush and sold connection. If you saw a spark then something got shorted, that should never happen, it's bad news. Let us know if reseating cables helped.
This may help u, i ran into issue where i replaced the logic board and there was No powerup afterwards, no screen,no sound,no fans...i thought the board got damaged...all connections seemed plugged in...BUT the Keyboard ribbon was not FULLY pushed into the connector and thats what the issue was...if its not fully in and locked, the board will seem dead and no boot..i had it in the connector ,but when i pulled on it ,it fell out and had not Caught the connector at all... i had to use a small rectangle cut from a creditcard, stiff, to press against the cable and ease it deeper into the socket, then flip the lockdown clamp...booted up fine after that... if u had sparks , well, thats Not good! reseat the keyboard connector as i described and hopefully it will still boot...goood luck!
Skip741 x Thanks for the advice, but I totally forgot to reply back to this question. I got it fixed, but it wasn’t the keyboard connector. I checked there and made sure it was connected and locked in. I even felt the “little lock” that it was in all the way if you know what I’m talking about. After I scared myself of the spark (yeah you shouldn’t see that), I panicked and left it alone for several hours. Not sure if it was a power drain or something, but it turned on by itself again and everything was normal. Of course the heat sink issue was fixed too. Hopefully this helps someone if this happens to you for some reason.
hi samurai, glad to see it came back to life!
thanks, it helped me.
Hello, After following this method on my mac. I did the same in the video however after putting back I am unable to start the MBP. Can anyone help?
Yes, reconnect the keyboard. The keyboard has the power button connected to it and so if it's sitting in the socket on the loagicboard incorrectly it will not power on.
My screen flashes and goes completely dark if I put the bottom plate screws in. Has anyone else encountered this? I did this a CPU repaste (got excellent thermals at least), so all went well just can't put the bottom screws in or the screen dies. Thanks
Best way to fix this is to completely take out the logicboard and then put it back in. It's a lot of work but needs to be done. Something is touching.
Thank you! You just saved me 100€
Thanks for this bro.
Oy, I'd like to do it for a late 2008 unibody. Have you seen a temperature improvement after ?
+HK Asia Yes, this can improve temperature and decrease fan loudness, besides replacing the thermal paste, you need to clean the dust from the fan and from the fan vent (the area where the fan sits). I have shot over 250 videos for every Macbook model 2008-2012 so far. Here is the link for your model www.appledollars.com/2008-macbook-a1278 it's an interactive video map with a replacement video for every part of that model.
Lol the heat sink is the only video not added to the map, here it is www.appledollars.com/new-gallery/2016/3/3/2008-unibody-cpu-heat-sink-replacement-save-apple-dollars-18
Good luck!
thank you very much for this video. i intend to repaste the cpu (late 2011 13") but before that i'd like to know if it's worthwhile? my cpu reaches according to "CleanMyMac" 96° at the top, very often 80-85°.
My is reaching 100 ° after installing Catalina.
Good guide but be warned: there is no need to remove the speaker or the microphone for this operation.
Wow so comprehensive
what are u using for thermal paste?
Arctic silver, ebay.to/2NBplNW
Thanks a lot!
Thx! 🙏👍
Hi, what is this other "heat sink" next CPU with two black square? Should i replace the thermal on it too? I cant see if there is paste cause one of those tree screw is striped :( Is possible to find some kind of logic board manual to know exactly what is each component ? Thanks dude, you helped me and others alot! o/
The other sink is a network bridge I think. There is a guy named Louis Rossmann that has a lot of in depth info about manuals and schematics, i'd look into that direction if you want deeper information.
@@GRIBSOFT Thanks again! I got a information from macrumors forum, that others chips are for Thunderbolt chip, and Platform Controller Hub (PCH).
Hi. I have the following problem with my macbook pro 13" early 2011: 4MOT/4/40000002: Exhaust - 7022. Can this solve the problem? My fans are running at +7000 rpm constantly from when i boot up the mac. Resetting the smc doesn't work.
This models heatsink sensor is connected to logic board, make sure the connection is good. Replacing the heat sink might solve the problem. When you do replace it, make sure to rub down the entire logic board with a toothbrush and alcohol, make sure to apply new thermal paste. The fan should be fine it's the thermal sensor or the logic board thats the problem.
Grab this while you can:
www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-APPLE-MACBOOK-PRO-13-EARLY-2011-HEATSINK-COOLING-FAN-922-9784-922-8620-/301893486289?hash=item464a4106d1:g:38gAAOSwyjBW4Kjx
Good luck :)
I retract earlier statement, the temp sensor is on the logic board. It can have moisture or residue on it, so soak the board in 90%+ alcohol and rub the entire board with a toothbrush, this will clean out the sensor. If you really want to get technical, "at your own risk!" you can bake the board at 385 degrees for 7 minutes in any conventional oven, this will reinforce component level connections and reconnect detached connections, this is also referred to as "reflowing". Either way, if alcohol cleaning and new heatsink doesn't fix the issue, you will need to replace the board and I would risk reflowing it before spending 400$+ on a new board.
Another option for testing is to download Mac Fan control here and manually turn down the fan speed to a reasonable rpm and see if the cpu temperature is still high, although the data that is displayed is fed through the temp sensor that might be broken, this could be a temporary solution:
www.appledollars.com/downloads/
So it can not be the connection from the sensor to the logic board that might be loose? I will try to soak the logic board in 90%+ alcohol. Do i just follow your video about replacing the logic board and then clean it and putting it in again?
Yes, exactly. Just follow the video, when it's out clean it. Let it dry near a fan for 2 hours and reassemble it.
Okay thanks! I need to remove the heat sink and the thermal paste and apply new paste and install a new heat sink right? That would get me the biggest chances for it to work right?
followed ever step carefully, mac boots to white screen. re done the whole lot, mac reboots to black screen..... excellent
no wonder my macbook pro runs so hot look at that puny heatsink.
LOUDER
you dont have to remove the mic or the speaker to do this job what you showed was a pile of HS, also this is not a heatsink replacemnt video its a repaste you also put to little of paste on as well. much to learn here on how not to do this congrats
👍🏽
To put it back together just put your video in reverse
Smart and something everyone else does but not the same. This is a step by step guide from start to finish. The reverse process is slightly different.