Thank you it was a very helpful video. I have a flashforge 5m printer and I bought Creality Hyper PLA filament. I had adhesion problem with this type of filament. I tried to change all other parameters but the final problem was the Z offset. I set up it to -0,05. It solved my problem.
Thanks for the tip! Swapped out my nozzle for the first time and it wasn't close enough. switched it back and it is grinding on the plate! Man, these machines are finicky.
When you say to **clean tip** before starting this, exactly what do you mean by that? And what are you looking for to alert you that the Z-Offset needs adjustment? How do you determine what is a "PERFECT" first layer? And once you get this set for one type of filament should it be the same regardless of the type of filament you're printing with moving forward? Appreciate any help. At around 2:25 you show the on printer screen that shows the Z offset value. So, this is referencing the Z (build plate) position not the nozzle position correct? I understand only the build plate moves but when looking at this you are referencing where the nozzle is in relation to the build plate. So if the offset value refers to the build plate location, then the - and + indicators don't really reference what you are seeing. For example if it looks like the nozzle is too close to the build plate then you want the nozzle to be higher but in order to get that you have to hit the - key to lower the Z access (and the build plate), correct? So you're pressing the *-* button to *RAISE* the relative position of the nozzle with reference to the build plate, correct? And, of course, then you are pressing the *+* button to *LOWER* the nozzle. That just seems counterintuitive to me. But just want to clarify. Would really like to see a video on how you should calibrate for new filament using Orca's built in Calibration settings and modifications you would make to User filament profiles. Thanks.
In most cases I've seen the issue is caused by something that is covering the sensor at the base of the printer behind the main lead screw. (please refer to image below) images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/659d4c66537901301523ecaa/7ae92d6e-ce0a-4814-a0ac-fbaa1ec44f96/z+axis+sensor.jpg
I'm having Y-Axis go home error. E0013. Have you had this experience and do you have any ways to fix it? I'm communicating with Flashforge, but it's taking a while. Thanks, Patrick
First I would try upgrading to the latest firmware or downgrading if you are at the latest. If this does not work check that nothing is obstructing the print head when homing, e.g. Guide Tube. If this also doesn't work check that there is no plastic or debris blocking the Y-axis limit sensor on the head. Last thing would be that the extruder board needs replacing.
I do have a question when my printer is calabrating it goes up to far and it hits the nozzle and then keeps trying to go up and then stops and says check trigger sensor
Hi ! Please help me !!! I need to adjust the e-step of my Flashforge 5m pro because the prints are having dimensional discrepancies. How do I make these adjustments? And How to adjust belt tension?
Alright, i was able to fix the z offset thank you but there is another problem, i looked at the facebook group and it said there is currently a version problem with the 5m and 5m pro i am going to look into that, thank you again
@@EpicEruptor13 no worries! From my experience firmware versions 2.6.5 and 2.6.6 are stable so I’d recommend contacting there support and asking for the firmware files for both 👍🏻
Err, that build plate is so simple to remove that it's worth cleaning it outside the machine. Same for if/when you add hairspray or other adhesives to the surface - do it someplace else. Those things won't do the machine itself any good. And that surface below the bed (the one it Z-homes to with every job) needs to be completely clear of obstructions. Sometimes bits of filament will fall down there. I do these steps with every job, and have been very impressed with how reliable this thing is for turning a STL into a physical object. (psst, Flashforge, make a bigger one of these and I'll buy it too)
@@suzyamerica4679 Yes you can remove the build plate and clean it if you like however for ease of recording in my setup I chose to keep it inside the printer. Also I clean my build plate with isopropyl alcohol which will evaporate anyway and not affect the printer.
@@LT3D_YT This thing is such a fantastic printer. I use mine exclusively for making working parts of different kinds. Plumbing adapters, parametric designs, tool add-ons etc.
Very useful tutorial. Thanks for the info. When changing z-offset in the slicer, what is a safe amount to lower the nozzle each trial run? In other words, I’m assuming big changes in nozzle height risks crashing it into the bed, but it’s unclear what constitutes a big change.
Onboard the 5M and 5M Pro the increments are 0.025 so I would start there. From what I've experienced myself and seen from others in the Official Facebook Group most people find either -0.025 or -0.050 to be the sweet spot for their machines.
@@LT3D_YT Weird question .. I'm only half a year into this subject, but so far it's been my experience that layer height issues can be completely obviated by tweaking the various temperature and speed settings for the machine. I print a lot in PETG and TPU. PETG was particularly fun to figure out - it wants slow cooling, it wants some side panels on the machine, low fan settings, layer print time settings, etc. When you get these things right, there's no need to adjust the Z-height at all. I'd export & share the settings if I knew how ;) Edit 1: Here are the PETG settings I ended up at. Been just throwing jobs at it and they print with no adjustments during the job. "enable_overhang_bridge_fan": "0" "fan_max_speed": "10" "fan_min_speed": "5" "filament_max_volumetric_speed": "9" "filament_settings_id": "Flashforge Generic PETG - Custom" "from": "User", "hot_plate_temp": "73" "hot_plate_temp_initial_layer": "73" "inherits": "Flashforge Generic PETG", "is_custom_defined": "0", "name": "Flashforge Generic PETG - Custom", "nozzle_temperature_range_high": "265" "nozzle_temperature_range_low": "235" "slow_down_min_speed": "10" "support_material_interface_fan_speed": "10" "version": "2.1.1.0" Edit 2: These settings are for the vanilla 5M machine with no top cover, two test covers on the sides (LOL cardboard that's duct taped into place), and no front door (or front door left wide open).
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Very helpful to know how to do it all three ways for different circumstances. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful!
This helped with the problem I’ve had with bed adhesion. Thanks
That's fantastic to hear!
Thank you it was a very helpful video. I have a flashforge 5m printer and I bought Creality Hyper PLA filament. I had adhesion problem with this type of filament. I tried to change all other parameters but the final problem was the Z offset. I set up it to -0,05. It solved my problem.
Great to hear!
Your the best bro
Appreciate it!
Thanks for the tip! Swapped out my nozzle for the first time and it wasn't close enough. switched it back and it is grinding on the plate! Man, these machines are finicky.
Great to hear the video helped!
Ure a woman. Grow your hair, stop printing and get back to cleaning & cooking. "Finicky" my ass.
Спасибо тебе большое, твой совет очень помог
I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
When you say to **clean tip** before starting this, exactly what do you mean by that? And what are you looking for to alert you that the Z-Offset needs adjustment? How do you determine what is a "PERFECT" first layer? And once you get this set for one type of filament should it be the same regardless of the type of filament you're printing with moving forward? Appreciate any help.
At around 2:25 you show the on printer screen that shows the Z offset value. So, this is referencing the Z (build plate) position not the nozzle position correct? I understand only the build plate moves but when looking at this you are referencing where the nozzle is in relation to the build plate. So if the offset value refers to the build plate location, then the - and + indicators don't really reference what you are seeing. For example if it looks like the nozzle is too close to the build plate then you want the nozzle to be higher but in order to get that you have to hit the - key to lower the Z access (and the build plate), correct? So you're pressing the *-* button to *RAISE* the relative position of the nozzle with reference to the build plate, correct? And, of course, then you are pressing the *+* button to *LOWER* the nozzle. That just seems counterintuitive to me. But just want to clarify.
Would really like to see a video on how you should calibrate for new filament using Orca's built in Calibration settings and modifications you would make to User filament profiles. Thanks.
I think the Most recent update gave me this issue. I have to level before every print and it works but I didn’t have to before.
I have a question do you know how to stop the bed from bottoming out
I'm here looking asking the same question
In most cases I've seen the issue is caused by something that is covering the sensor at the base of the printer behind the main lead screw. (please refer to image below)
images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/659d4c66537901301523ecaa/7ae92d6e-ce0a-4814-a0ac-fbaa1ec44f96/z+axis+sensor.jpg
I'm having Y-Axis go home error. E0013. Have you had this experience and do you have any ways to fix it? I'm communicating with Flashforge, but it's taking a while.
Thanks,
Patrick
First I would try upgrading to the latest firmware or downgrading if you are at the latest.
If this does not work check that nothing is obstructing the print head when homing, e.g. Guide Tube.
If this also doesn't work check that there is no plastic or debris blocking the Y-axis limit sensor on the head.
Last thing would be that the extruder board needs replacing.
Dude, you've saved me a fortune!! Many thanks. You have a subscribe & like👍. If I can buy you a beer/coffee, point me in the right direction? 😁🤞👌
Glad I could help!
I do have a question when my printer is calabrating it goes up to far and it hits the nozzle and then keeps trying to go up and then stops and says check trigger sensor
Check to see if there is anything under the print bed blocking the sensor. (At the bottom next to the big lead screw)
Hi ! Please help me !!! I need to adjust the e-step of my Flashforge 5m pro because the prints are having dimensional discrepancies.
How do I make these adjustments? And How to adjust belt tension?
Alright, i was able to fix the z offset thank you but there is another problem, i looked at the facebook group and it said there is currently a version problem with the 5m and 5m pro i am going to look into that, thank you again
@@EpicEruptor13 no worries! From my experience firmware versions 2.6.5 and 2.6.6 are stable so I’d recommend contacting there support and asking for the firmware files for both 👍🏻
@@LT3D_YT I will do
I got the files and I was wondering how do I use them?
2.6.6 and how should I get it from my emails to my printer?
@@EpicEruptor13 Download it and extract the contents on to a blank USB Stick and then follow the video below.
ruclips.net/video/OSgLzW_mRXU/видео.html
And it's a brand new one opened yesterday
Err, that build plate is so simple to remove that it's worth cleaning it outside the machine. Same for if/when you add hairspray or other adhesives to the surface - do it someplace else. Those things won't do the machine itself any good. And that surface below the bed (the one it Z-homes to with every job) needs to be completely clear of obstructions. Sometimes bits of filament will fall down there. I do these steps with every job, and have been very impressed with how reliable this thing is for turning a STL into a physical object. (psst, Flashforge, make a bigger one of these and I'll buy it too)
@@suzyamerica4679 Yes you can remove the build plate and clean it if you like however for ease of recording in my setup I chose to keep it inside the printer. Also I clean my build plate with isopropyl alcohol which will evaporate anyway and not affect the printer.
@@LT3D_YT This thing is such a fantastic printer. I use mine exclusively for making working parts of different kinds. Plumbing adapters, parametric designs, tool add-ons etc.
@@suzyamerica4679 fantastic to hear. It’s a great printer at a great price!
Very useful tutorial. Thanks for the info. When changing z-offset in the slicer, what is a safe amount to lower the nozzle each trial run? In other words, I’m assuming big changes in nozzle height risks crashing it into the bed, but it’s unclear what constitutes a big change.
Onboard the 5M and 5M Pro the increments are 0.025 so I would start there.
From what I've experienced myself and seen from others in the Official Facebook Group most people find either -0.025 or -0.050 to be the sweet spot for their machines.
@@LT3D_YT Weird question .. I'm only half a year into this subject, but so far it's been my experience that layer height issues can be completely obviated by tweaking the various temperature and speed settings for the machine. I print a lot in PETG and TPU. PETG was particularly fun to figure out - it wants slow cooling, it wants some side panels on the machine, low fan settings, layer print time settings, etc. When you get these things right, there's no need to adjust the Z-height at all. I'd export & share the settings if I knew how ;)
Edit 1: Here are the PETG settings I ended up at. Been just throwing jobs at it and they print with no adjustments during the job.
"enable_overhang_bridge_fan": "0"
"fan_max_speed": "10"
"fan_min_speed": "5"
"filament_max_volumetric_speed": "9"
"filament_settings_id": "Flashforge Generic PETG - Custom"
"from": "User",
"hot_plate_temp": "73"
"hot_plate_temp_initial_layer": "73"
"inherits": "Flashforge Generic PETG",
"is_custom_defined": "0",
"name": "Flashforge Generic PETG - Custom",
"nozzle_temperature_range_high": "265"
"nozzle_temperature_range_low": "235"
"slow_down_min_speed": "10"
"support_material_interface_fan_speed": "10"
"version": "2.1.1.0"
Edit 2: These settings are for the vanilla 5M machine with no top cover, two test covers on the sides (LOL cardboard that's duct taped into place), and no front door (or front door left wide open).
Which way is up and which is down? Lol I seriously can't tell!
Negative values bring the nozzle closer to the bed reducing the gap and positive values increase the gap between the nozzle and the bed.
@@LT3D_YT Thank you!
@@supremesupreme4289 no worries! 😁
Does the orca-flashforge slicer work on windows 7, thanks in advance.