Project Audi 5000 CS Quattro | Ep. 4 | Heater Core, Ignition Switch, LED Headlights
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Get the complete Project Audi 5000 parts list here: practicalenthu...
Watch the entire Audi 5000 series here: • 1987 Audi 5000 CS Quattro
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This video encompasses a series of repairs that took a few weeks to complete. Unfortunately, the ignition switch diagnosis was a big FAIL, but I plan to figure out a solution in the future.
Audi 100 200 Urquattro MC MC-1 turbo C3 Typ 44
Get the complete Project Audi 5000 parts list here: practicalenthusiast.gumroad.com/l/brqsx
This is my new favorite series on YT. I've been eyeing 5000/200s for a long time and this is showing me what I'll be up to when it happens lol.
love this series. i had a 1990 audi 200 quattro which was very similar to this car. had to do the blower motor and choose not to do the heater core, mostly because i was reluctant to tackle that heater box. happy to say drove the car until 321k kilometres and never had a heater core issue. those back calipers were always an issue probably replaced them 3 times as they always seem to seize up at the parking brake mechanism. even though your fix on the ignition switch did not work it was very educational and as we know... sometimes things just don't seem to work out when trouble shooting these older vehicles.
I had one exactly like your car in 1987. Even the same color combination. It was a great car but expensive to maintain even back then.
You have some serious patience!
That ignition switch is a real mystery! Great video.
We'll get to the bottom of it!!
I have the exact same car,exact right down to the fuch wheels.I used to work for Audi from 1992-2002 these things were always in for the same issues but a awesome car to drive once it was set up right.I have every available factory Manuel, sub books,even microfilm,car has been under cover in my garage for 10+ years I know I'm in for a project with the fuel system ,stored with bg44k products and stabilizer but I'm sure I need to start with cleaning tank and all fuel lines to fuel filter and fuel distributor,then to the lines and injectors ,seals and shrouds,also not a touch of rust,paint great, interior mint 126k..,I was smart enough years ago and stocked 3 file cabinets with virtually every spare part from pumps ,switches,sensors,oem hoses,dash,accumulator,Handels, HVAC ,vacuum box,display,regulators,ect.im hoping to get in on the road bye spring unless I get a decent offer was thinking about BAT ,really can't put value on it nothing to compare to so if I decide that route I guess no reserve be best,idk long as goes to someone that will treat it well thanks for video no one ever talks about these cars..thanks again
As an old school Audi guy, these videos have been great to watch. Only thing I'd mention is to use the "0" via the hole in the transmission for the TDC mark. The mark in the front harmonic balancer area isnt super accurate as the rubber fails and twists. Looks like you got it though :D Looking forward to the next video!
Thanks for the tip on the TDC mark! I guess I got lucky on mine, but I also did put markers on the belt and counted the belt teeth before removing the belt :)
The heater core on my '87 5000S went bad. This video was a great help in many ways. Removing the HVAC housing and installing a new core was still a horrible nightmare, but it's now done. It is not necessary to remove all the parts as shown in the vid. Clips and 3 screws hold the 2 halves of the HVAC housing together. A Philip's screwdriver w/ a very long shaft is needed to reach 2 of the screws.
few months ago, I started working on my parents old 1990 Audi 90. So on, I replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, gas tank, the heater core that exploded right in my legs, while I was in the car idling. (haveto drop the whole dashboard out), I did the air vents, new roof, water pump, timing belt, pulley, washed the floor mat and installed new soundproofing on the old mat where needed (front half of the mat)
Not sure if all VW ignition switches are shit, but Im going to have one in the car, just in case, becaue we had 2 broke in the car. Last time the car was used it got started with screwdriver.
Now Im waiting on some oil so I can flush the engine, and put new oil and filter. .
Oh, the Air filter was probably the original or something. It had holes in it.
My first ever car was an Audi 5000S and I maintained that thing throughout my life in college by myself and so it’s nice to see so much familiar stuff going on here. Huge fan of your channel and the work you’ve done, particularly on your 1198S since I’m planning on getting one too. Keep it up! All the best with the rest of the project.
More Classic Audi repair gold! My Audi 4Kq cs has the fuel tank in the trunk. What’s the best way to clean it as I need to go through the entire fuel system. Also there is an aftermarket option to replace the K-Jetronic fuel injection system called K-jet Killers but it’s over $1K!
If you think that heater core box was difficult to get out, try doing it in a modern Audi where it is hidden behind the dash and you need to take apart half the car.
OMG Pete I wanna bring out my detailing gear and clean that thing. Awesome video btw!!!!
It needs it so badly! I want to make sure it's mechanically sound first though 😆
This series is a trip down memory lane, my dad had two of these 5000s ( both N/A auto fwd) that he got dirt cheap at the auction that looked like new and were less than 10 years old with less than 100k miles because of the bad rep with the "sudden acceleration". They are still his favorite cars to this day though he was always working on the wiring/electrical systems and he screwed up the timing belt change on the second one it was off by a notch or something (because of a leaking water pump I think the timing belt drive the water pump) and after the job the car lost a good chunk out of the factory 100hp 😅
Oh no! These engines don't have any horsepower to lose! LOL. I can definitely see how these cars can be constant electrical nightmares if the issues are allowed to stack up. But for the most part the electronics are fairly mechanical in design and can often be rebuilt/restored. I wasn't so successful in my ignition switch attempt however.
Hell yes been waiting for this for weeks, you delivered!! Thanks, I love the 5000 ❤️❤️
That is a lot of work! Love this Audi series
Jebus! I am half way through this video and I am flabbergasted… It’s like this car will become the ship of Theseus down the road.
I'm afraid you're right. I'll end up buying the last of every NOS part remaining for these things.
I cringed when I saw you pulling those little actuator arms apart. "Oh! I wouldn't have done that!" Good work getting them back in place.
And then, of course, you rebuilt a $10 ignition switch. You are a madman, sir!
Thank you! 😂 Mad is certainly the correct word here. Limited parts availability can lead one to do some insane and regrettable things.
These videos are great, not a lot of detailed videos for these cars.
Reminds me some memories I had the Euro version the Audi 200, the heater core, been there done that from what I reminder there's silicone that seals the heater core to the heater box. Looks like yours has been previously replaced and the guy had forgotten to seal it.
I read something about the silicone sealant where the heater core pipes protrude from the HVAC box. I was hesitant doing that so I left it alone.
@@PracticalEnthusiast I did it twice on the same car lol. The first time I didn't put any silicone and it worked fine and the second time I did seal it.
Did you cut open the old heater core? Would be interesting to see if it was full of stop-leak.
I haven't, but I do still have the old heater core. I don't have a bandsaw but I suppose a miter saw might work :)
There are no less than six (6) of these at my local scrap yard, there's even a wagon! I wonder how good their steering locks are...
Hey that might be enough to build one good one!! 😆
But yeah, that would be an excellent source of parts. Do they have a website that shows inventory?
@@PracticalEnthusiast They only show that they have the cars, not what parts are available from them. Unfortunately it's a pick and pull place that doesn't offer a service to have the parts removed and sent out, you have to show up and get them yourself 😒
@@jordanh.2998 Shucks!
The OCD in me wants to know what you used to seal the heater core housing back to the body/firewall. Was it butyl tape? Looking at possibly having to undertake this job...
Yep, butyl tape is what should be used.
To all I am looking for the air injector cooling shroud on top of engine mines brittle only other option I guess is to have one fabricated out of aluminum I guess anyone have answer thanks
You are a glutton for punishment 😅
enjoyed the video as usual! with regard to the starter issue, my money is on problems with the wiring or ground. this is an old car, and given that there was a trickle charger and a radar detector hard-wired into the car, you know a past owner has messed with the wiring. how is the bypass switch wired? did they run new wires all the way to the solenoid, or did they tap into the wiring for the original switch? that may be a productive place to look.
also, for the green death on the solenoid wiring, Edd China did a video a while back where he shows how to remove that easily: ruclips.net/video/XX20rvGcxng/видео.html
The bypass switch is a complete independent circuit and it gets the full battery voltage. It very well could be a ground causing the voltage drop, I'll have to dig into that. And thanks for the link to an Edd video, as if I needed an excuse to watch him!!
@@PracticalEnthusiast - I'm certainly no expert, but I find it hard to believe that the lock cylinder tab degrading is the reason why the car won't start using the ignition switch. to verify that, you could connect the ignition switch (the old part you rebuilt or the new one) without the ignition switch barrel assembly...you could use a big screwdriver to turn it, redneck-/car thief-style. if you can't start the car this way, then you know that the ignition switch is not the problem (or not the only problem).
@@andrethib I tried the screwdriver test as well, and ultimately only got 10.6 volts down to the starter. So that's definitely one issue to resolve. However, this is a compound issue where the lock cylinder doesn't rotate enough to get the switch to provide 10.6 volts to begin with. Once the mechanical problem is resolved, I'll dig deeper into the voltage drop. I have ordered a new lock cylinder, but it's coming from halfway around the world so it might be a minute.
-22 psi doesn't make any sense.
My bad. It's in inHg.