Steam Locomotive Bearing Wedge Build: Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2015
- In this video we start the build on making a new wedge to tighten the connecting rod bearings on the 1917 Vulcan Iron Works steam locomotive at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture in Tifton, GA. Mostly a lot of milling machine work where we use a slab mill on a Kearney & Trecker horizontal mill to get the piece of steel to size. Then we switch over to a Wells-Index vertical mill to drill and tap a hole through the entire block.
You ended on a real cliffhanger there Keith!!!
'Will the tap be long enough? Has it cut the threads?? All these questions and more will be answered in the next exciting episode of...'
*Great* stuff as ever - please don't leave us hanging too long for the conclusion!
+morelenmir Sorry, but it was just running too long - it needed to be split into two episodes. The next part will come out soon....
Thank you Keith, I always appreciate the work you do, not just to share with us here on YT, but also for the Museum. They are truly blessed to have you there!
Oh hey, I just realized the Vulcan was made in the same year as the Webley & Scott, 1917 was a good year :)
Aloha, Chuck
+Knolltop Farms I had not put together the Vulcan and Webley & Scott before. 1917 was a good year. Sometimes I wish that I had been born about that time myself so I could have witnessed first hand all the great improvements in technology over those years. From the horse and steam engines to the high tech world we live in today. It has been a pretty amazing 100 years or so if you think about it.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org I too share the same thought sometimes, especially when things get crowded. So, when you build your steam powered time machine, I'll be your test subject, LOL! Have a great weekend my friend, Aloha...Chuck
I was getting really nervous as you were about to start that big cut climb milling ... Just as I thought you didn't care you stopped and set up to mill from the other end, Whew! Great video Keith! Thanks!
Keith, Enjoyed the video. Glad to see that you keep the past alive with your talent. Steam on.
+stanthemando It is what I love to do!
I'm not a machine worker or anywhere close to a profession which involves working with my hands. But I find your videos fascinating to watch. Please keep up the good work.
+Xantar Thanks!
Catching yourself from climb cutting the part is a good lesson for the beginning machinist.
+Gord Taylor It is easy to get confused when you stop to do something like make a measurement. Some mills are actually designed for climb milling, which is more efficient and leaves better results. But, if you have any wear in your tables, climb milling can pull that slop out and crash a cutter.
I worked at K-T rebuilding the older knee type mills. The 2H has a great history. Just a small note, the U.S.Navy honored Kearney and Trecker with the award that their 2H was the oldest running machine tool that the were still using.
I was very surprised when I saw you *almost* climb milling there. But, you fixed it, no no harm no foul.
+justfakeit888 I almost messed up!
Really like watching and the old equipment being repaired . I do clock repair some things you do are a great help when making a part you can't buy
+Steven Reinert I like watching some of the clock and watch repair guys. I mostly work on pretty big stuff and I learn a lot watching you guys do that tiny stuff!
Hello Keith,
Again an interesting video and those different viewing angles are also chosen good. Never had seen how you zero out the mill and now I understand how you do that.
Looking forward to part 2 !
Many greetings from Roel !
+RoelTyros Thanks - Part two coming soon!
Always good to Watch Master machinist at Work Keith :) Dave from Down under Australia
+David Fullston Thanks for the complement Dave. Not sure that I qualify as a "Master Machinist" though!
Hey Keith,
Always love your videos, but the steam locomotive projects are always a favorite. I really appreciate the way that you guys replace "like" for "like". Looking forward to the pattern making. casting, and machining videos when the project gets there.
+Alan Downey Thanks Alan - I have to admit, that I enjoy working on the locomotive about as much as anything else. I have been fortunate enough to have made a LOT of parts for that locomotive over the years.
Cool! Master craftsmanship, at it's finest. Thanx Keith!
+captainjerk Thanks for watching!
As I rather expected, the wedge actually involves quite a lot of work. Nice to see the stages... and look fwd to the remainder.
Reminds me from my old but long gone horizontal mill - those nasty lil' needles from cutting!!! The ones that sneak into your skin when you ain't lookin' :)
+ChrisB257 I can remember when I worked in the machine shop and ran horizontal mills and turret lathes all the time. I used to come home at night and try and find the tiny shavings under a magnifying glass so I could pull them out....
Thanks for the video Keith. Am enjoying the series.
+Duncan “DunMac” Mac Thanks!
I never knew shell mills produced such a nice mirror finish. I'm going to have to try using those now.
I'm learning more every day; now I appreciate machinists a lot more! Greg
+Charles Compton Thanks Greg!
You know Keith, what I like best about your videos is that when you make an error, you don't try to hide it. Instead, you explain what went wrong then show us how and why to fix it. To me, that's just as important as doing it the right way on the first shot. After all, no one is perfect!
Thanks for having the Friday morning video ready on time, even though yesterday was Thanksgiving and you probably had a busy day like most of us.
Regards and thanks again,
Rich
PS. How's the workshop coming along?
+Rich206L Thanks Rich!
Hi Keith !
Oh, I love these slap cutters and the job they do - unfortunately I've used all of mine up cutting some flame or plasma cut pieces so they are all very dull. I have no setup for grinding them yet.
Very nice project there - thx for sharing.
+Keld Sørensen Thanks for watching!
I learn more from your mistakes than I do when it goes well. I love real project videos because it lets me armchair quarterback, too. BTW, when you were setting up to climb mill I was thinking, "Wow, he's really gonna climb hog that...? He's DA MAN!" Then you chickened out, and I felt better about my original gut feeling. :)
+Thomas Utley If you have a good and tight mill, climb milling is the way to go. My old worn out mill would likely have very bad results.....
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org
especially with that vice orientation. It almost jumped under conventional milling.
I enjoyed watching this video and the earlier video fabricating the bolt. The lathe is a fascinating piece of machinery! The next time I am in Tifton I will try to stop by the museum. Perhaps I'll see your handiwork in-place on the locomotive.
+Walter McCannon There is quite a bit of my handy work on that old locomotive. We are always needing to work on something on that old train....
Nicely done Keith; I like that key way adapter, that's smart!
You're right, that cutter left a really nice finish...
I just love slab milling!
thank you for sharing the DRO discrepancies. good to know what to lookout for!
Man, I thought the piece was gonna come out of the vice...Glad you cinched it up a bit.
I'd love to be able to plow off a big slab like that sometimes.. :-)
colin
+CompEdgeX It did move on me. When I saw it, I stopped everything (including the camera, which I wish I had left running), reset the piece and tightened it up better. After re-tightening, it never moved again.
Good catch on the DRO it's always good to have a rough secondary check.
+Bill De La Vega Layout lines on the mill have saved me more than once. Usually not from a DRO problem but from me just screwing something up with my measuring....
I was an apprentice machinist at a GE shop in 1970-71. The shop did both tool and die and mold making for plastic parts. I certainly enjoy your videos. In addition to my apprentice learning I also did all of tool steel heat treating for the shop. I did air quench inside a stainless steel wrap. I have noticed that you never seem to do any case hardening or heat treatment of your parts.
I have done some heat treating before but I don't think I have ever done case hardening.
You made me wonder when you started out to go climb milling there! Great little project to show both the horizontal and vertical mills. I'm impressed at how you dialed in to the tenths of thousandths so quickly on the vertical--I always have to do more fidgeting and finagling than that. Maybe that can be a challenge at the next round-up, to go along with the four-jaw lathe centering challenge. Thanks for posting.
+Rick Rose Thanks for watching Rick!
I love watching that K&T work. Awesome video.
+russtuff I really like that old K&T as well - one of my favorite machines. I only want a bigger one....
Thanks keith for another great upload.
+That Guy There Thanks!
Time to dig thru your milling cutters and see if you can find one with the right radius to cut that block.:-) I would suggest to always orient your vise so that cutting forces are resisted by the jaws. Probably because I tend to hog on my machines I have learned from bad experiences to use positive stops so you don't end up with thrown parts and moving components. Thanks for sharing the slab milling.
+bcbloc02 That's a great "add vice".... ;)
+bcbloc02 Good point on the vice alignment!
+bcbloc02 I normally would have positioned the vise like you suggest, but I was thinking ahead to the last step where I would be milling the angle, and for that cut the vise needed to be positioned the way I had it.
+bcbloc02
Yeah Keith didn't mention it but I know I saw that work piece jump just as the cutter was starting engage on that last cut he showed us. I was "Oh crap hope he's paying attention cause bad things are about to happen otherwise."
I love your videos. So natural and just as it happened. So much better that the edited-to-show-only-perfection from some others!
+SpiderElectron exactly^ small errors, pauses for thought, and just show it real, makes it so good, its no educational unless you show what you do to remedy mistakes (not that you made any this week, i did see the part loose during a cut)
+SpiderElectron Thank you!
Or the ones that become popular and then turn into an info-mercial trying to sell you some piece of crap that they never even used before. I unsubbed Keith Fenner because he seems to have gone commercial and become a demonstrator. Great workmanship but annoying to watch.
Mr. Rucker is definitely laid back and comfortable to watch.
+MrPlusses I unsubbed Fenner the same for the same reason.
That X-carver was the straw that broke the camels back for me.
+MrPlusses many of the machinist and electrical channels (well thats all i watch anyway) have been inundated with certain products for "review" ; be it a certain soldering iron, the x-carve, free goods from a big china website for review (they often dont review, just play with, never say anything to really test) etc, so the blame is from two perspectives, plus the latest idea of also begging for patreon money, so in all they dont enjoy the videos they (used to?) make , they only want to chase money, i would also prefer a videomaker to only release when he feels he has a good video he wants to make vs 'having' to keep up a weekly or more video series, of course Keith rucker has enough content by far not to have that problem.
Works by magic. Keith Rucker, wizard. 2015
Cool to see your work restoring a historic piece of equipment! Looked like things went a little haywire around 19:26 ;) Ya need little more grunt on the vice for those deeper cuts.
+Dan Sammons Yeah, it moved a bit. I stopped everything and cranked down on things better and everything was fine from there on out.
Good eye Keith! You showed that DRO who's really in charge.I keep telling the"computer kids" you can't beat a Mk 1 Mod zero eyeball!
+Mr Frog Your eye can be one of the most accurate measuring tools in the shop!
Eye agree!
Tanks 'Keith' I enjoy your channel. Like ~M~ Getting close on running my 1952 SB lathe!
+Mike A Drover Great to hear that your lathe is coming along!
Great video keith, good catch of the messed up DRO sensor. Looking forward to seeing how you cut the radii.
+MattsMotorz Radius cutting coming soon....
Thumbs up, Nice work .
+Robert Perrigo Thanks Robert!
'hat was very interesting work Keith.
Round here we would just drill and tap it oversize and fit a big Helicoil to the original tho'
+Gordon McMillan I'm not sure that Keith could find a Helicoil that's long enough for what he needs...
I'd though about drilling and tapping - with left-hand threads - a large enough plug to accept fresh internal 5/8" UNC... but, that seems like a bigger job than going at it this way...
Eric
+Gordon McMillan As for Helicoils, I have nothing against them, but I have never seen any long enough to do that entire depth. I would also be concerned with using one in this application because the thread is for an adjustment bolt that gets moved from time to time. Helicoil's are typically used for applications where you are torquing a bolt down on something and it is not being adjusted.
At time 18.:36, I was holding my breath, hoping that you were not going to do a "climb cut"! Good catch!
+vajake1 I almost messed up.... Would not have been the first time but it sure would have sucked to have ruined that nice slab cutter....
That would have been a really bad thing to do!
....Mr Rucker,......Question...not just with your work, but a lot of machinist do it........ with 1/2" of steel to remove, why not stain, scribe a line, cut close then mill to final.......seems like the milling would take longer and be more wear on the machine, cutters, mess to clean up etc....?......thanks for sharing your work, love every show....
+Rick L Cutting the part out would be just fine. Our band saw would not hold a piece that short though. I could have put a metal cutting blade on the upright band saw in the wood shop and cut it off with that but they were using it for something else, so I just milled it down.
Great machining skills.
+valveman12 Thank you!
Good catch on the DRO issue. I don't have DRO's on my machines and if I did I would still layout all my spots and not totally depend on the DRO. You noticed the 100+ thousands that it was off but what if it were a very small amount. It could ruin a complex piece. Ya, it takes longer but it cuts down on mistakes. Just call me old old school I guess.... thanks for sharing... Fred
+Fred Miller When I am doing something complex, I usually do lay it all out and confirm that I am in the right spot. It makes me feel better as well!
13:00 All about the speed and feeds...New subscriber, but love learning different things. As many probably say "I wish I had half the tools you hvae". LOL. Keep up the good work!
+WreckDiver99 I have been fortunate enough to put together a nice set of machinist tools, but I really don't have much in the way of machines - a lathe, a horizontal mill and a vertical mill. I hope to add more when I get my new shop built!
Thank you Keith!
+Jerry Long Thanks Jerry!
Very cool!!
+Jeff Moss Thanks Jeff!
looking good keith
+Andy Coakes Thanks Andy!
Thanks for the info Keith
+Anthony F. “Tony” De Leo My pleasure!
Nice video
+Colchester Lathe Thanks!
I love watching your videos! I have learned so much from you! I try to think ahead to the next step (based on my limited knowledge and experience) and guess what your next operation may be.
+vajake1 That is a good practice - to think about the jobs ahead of time and how you would go about attacking it. Just remember that the way I do it is not always the best way for someone else. Everybody is limited by what they have available to use and the trick is to figure out how to make it happen with what you have to work with!
Having close to thirty years machining back ground and now i have three years in Water-Jet. I could have that part 90 percent done in under the time this video played, though you still have to drill and tap it.
+Marcus460
Not to the tolerance Kieth was holding himself to. Half a thousandth? Even our 4k laser at work can't hold that kind of tolerance and it is way more accurate than a water jet. Which it better be considering the huge money they cost.
+Marcus460 That's great, but I don't have a water-jet. And I suspect that some of those faces would still have to be cleaned up to get them as smooth as they need to be.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Hi Kieth, Sorry I didn't mean to imply that you use one. and yes the faces would need to be cleaned up. To what degree of tolerance that would be up to you. At a level 3 finish you would get approx .008-.012 taper on a zero degree setting would be much less taper though cut time goes way up
awesome channel.. how have i never found this before? Subed!
+warmfreeze Thanks for the subscription!
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org I love old steam power and old engines in general.
Great mill work Keith ! That stock tryed to move in the vice on ya at one point there .Good thing you were there to catch it !! Thumbs up man !!
hi keith, your earing don't need to be replaced. take some material off the mating surfaces so that the bores are made smaller. then bore to size. this method has been used in engine rebuilding many years.
Barry
+barry stevens The problem is that we have done that so many times that there just is not much bearing left! Some of the shims are 3/4" thick and I measured one of the bearings to only have about 1/4" of brass left before it wears through the back. No, it is time for some new bearings - the original ones are only 98 years old!
OK, I had thought that the bearings were blocks. I see that they aren't now. Keep up the good videos.
We have a K&T horizontal mill that I ran for 18 years.Now it's a catch-all,soon to be scrap metal.once we bought CNC's,it's not appealing at all to have hot chips,oil,and coolant thrown at me anymore.I just program,hit start,and drink coffee.
+Jason Carpenter then they bring in a robot to drink the coffee and your out of a job!
+jusb1066 Wrong!Its all custom tooling 1-2 parts,no production work.I'm the only machinist,my job is pretty secure.
+Jason Carpenter Nothing wrong with CNC if you can afford it. Not as practical though for the one off jobs like we are usually running. Before you scrap it, you might see if some of the guys here might like to get it from you and save it from being melted down and sent to China.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org that machine is a lost cause,too many things to fix.If you are ever up here in Ohio,you need to check out the "Age of steam roundhouse".Its a train lovers paradise.
thumbs up Kieth
+Adrian Higgins Thanks!
Had that exact same problem with DRO on my vertical mill (actually screwed up a piece by just using the DRO and not putting down reference lines), thought the DRO was trashed. I wiped the pick-up down with a rag and it seems to work fine now, but problem is, that problem is stuck in back of my head and I have to double or triple check the thing every time I use it!
+Fred Newman DRO's are great, but you should always confirm that they are in the right place. The old carpenters rule applies here - measure twice and cut once!
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org I have an old carpenter's rule, folding wooden one with brass slider on the end. LOL!
keith nice P-1.
+Robert Kutz Thanks Robert!
While watching this I though couldn't you just drill out the thread and then fill it with tight bit of steel (or what materiel was it) (of course there's more to do) then re drill and thread it that way you use the original part but then again what you did works well and thank you for doing these vids
+Riku matthews Sure, you could do it that way. But, I think it has drawbacks. I would very worried about that plug of steel staying put with the pounding that happens to this wedge. My call was to make a whole new part, but your approach may have well worked just fine.
Yer well it's easier in some ways also the way you done is more interesting to watch but you know the plug won't come out
Part #! Just order one?(ha! ha!) Probably a stocking part.
+Rick Brandt I am sure that back in 1917 you could order one with no problem at all!
hi keith,
that's a good lesson in dro-ing. got to use the old slide rule approach whence the user had to anticipate the result.
here's the check-up routine i use when working with the dro. i measure some medium distance with the x-scale, say, 3.125. then after that, i exchange the connectors "x" for "y", turn the vise in its base for 90 deg.,and measure it in the orthogonal direction. if the reading are the same, then the work starts.
this method has helped me several times to catch the "bug".
on your mill, do you have the shield on the rulers?
the work looks like a mild steel. are you planning to heat-treat it?
thank you for the video,
-toly
Keith, Just a thought from an old cooter. You said on the other video that the brasses would soon need to be replaced. Why not make the wedges a bit thicker? that would give you some more adjustment.
+tinkersdamnworkshop I also wondered about that, however once all the available adjustment is used up, won't you have to pare down the flat faces of the bearing too, in order to provide more clearance, and then fit a larger wedge?
Spider, Yup, in fact you could trim some off the front of the bearings and re'machine the holes to round, if you felt the need.
+tinkersdamnworkshop But then when I made the new bearings, I would have to make a new wedge that was thinner - or mill it down.
I was wondering about climb milling .250. Plain milling puts a lot less stress on the machine.
Regarding the 160 thou keyways - is 4mm a standard metric key size? Remember the UK has changed 'gradually' to metric and 1" shafts with metric keys might be a likely combination...
+Mark Sinden Very possible!
It's probably 5/32" (0.156") of course - the very near conversion to 4mm (3.96mm) is probably a total (but fortuitous) coincidence.
Keith . . . Hope you and your family had a great Thanksgiving! Now, it's turkey sandwiches for the next 2 weeks! I ate way more than I should. Since we ate at my cousin's place, they will get all the turkey sandwiches! ... Great job on milling and threading the block, Have you figured how you are going to do the radius on the block? If you could mount it on a rotary table in the correct position, you could do those by turning the table while cutting with an end mill. Would the part that the block slides in be weakened if you filled the curves square? ... As always, thanks for the great video. That was one hungry cutter you used!
Have a good one!
Dave
+Swarf Rat .....a outside or inside radius is much stronger than a sharp inside or outside corner, its almost like scribing a line for it to break on with an inside corner....and sharp outside corners can and will fracture/chip off, after repeated blows or vibrations.....besides...over time most sharp corners get rounded over............
+Swarf Rat Well, you have a pretty good idea of how I will mill the radius onto those pieces. It is all done now and that is pretty much how I did it! I will get that video up sometime next week.
Keith - Question. You say the bearing wedge drives the bearing tighter against the shaft taking up slop. The bearing was likely line bored to be circular. If there is horizontal movement it beans that there is a space between the two bearing pieces - this they are 2 halves of a circle but ow circular in configuration when in place. It appears the there is wear in only one direction and not the other. How did they compensate for this
Why not drill out the old threads, press-fit a sleeve and re-tap? The rest of that original part seemed in good shape?
Good trick if you run out of tap length, flip the part over and start from the other side.... Good luck to match the threads..... LOL
+pierre beaudry Yeah - my luck would not be so good....
Great Georgian word. "Scooches".
I thought it was a word used in all of the states...
It might be but I thought it was native to us.
Did I see that block move at 19:24? Oops LOL I've done that before...
Hi Keith,
Awesome video series as usual. What is the make/model of the body mic that you are using? I'm trying to set up video camera to start shooting in my shop and need a body mic so I can shoot long and move around. Do you ever get any interference from fluorescent light or other equipment?
Is this part 1 or part 2?
Thanks!
Andrew
+Andrew McLaughlin I am using a Sennheiser EW112P. It is a bit pricey but after nightmares I had with my first "cheap" wireless setup, I decided to spend a few extra bucks for quality this time. I have not had any problems with interference and the range on this mic is just great. The first mic I had, if I got over 10 or 15 feet from the camera (where the receiver was), it started making static. This one I can be over 100 feet away without any problem. You just have to watch the batteries - when you get to one bar, just replace them. Takes two AA's.
Somethings wrong, something else is taking up space in the head region. Life getting in the way?
Keith, Another nice video. Thanks for sharing. What oil did you use when you drilled the hole?
Gary
+Gary Hill The oil was just plain old dark cutting oil.
As I understand what was said in today's and in the last video, the brass bearing was made around 1917, nearly a hundred years ago. I don't understand how it is that the brass bearing that support the thrust is still good and that the wedges that do not support a load, once in place, are worn. Is there some explanation for that cause? Thanks
Robert
+Robert Patoine t Following the Occam's Razor theory. I'm going to guess that the wedge was overtightened at some point, pulling the threads. With the threads weakened and 100 years of cinching up the bearing, you get the final result. Keith did mention that one set of bearings needed to be recast because it had gone egg-shaped.
Interesting theory, Thanks to share.
+Robert Patoine As the bearing wears, it get's a little bit loose. With this bit of looseness, every time the wheel goes around, that little bit of play in everything moves the wedge and bolt back and forth a little bit. The constant beating on the part will weaken it over time. These original parts are 98 years old and they can only stand so much stress. In a perfect world where the bearing is always kept tight, this would not be an issue but over the past 98 years, there have been many periods where this train was not operated in a perfect world....
Curious about something. How could climb milling damage an old machine? I'm new to this and not sure what the mechanics of that would be.... Please elaborate.
If there was no possibility that the wedge was original I would have installed a Heli-coil or equivalent. I would have saved time by cutting simple diagonal corners instead of cutting radiuses. Relieving the corners is just for clearance not strength or location..
Step key
use those at work in conveyor drive systems for industry
thanks
enjoying
Hi Keith,
What us the spool shaped brass fitting on the bop of the bearing frame?
Thanks
Tony
+Anthony F. “Tony” De Leo That is an oiler. You put oil in it and it drips down on the bearing.
What is that? Mild steel? Do you think the threads would benefit from being hardened and tempered? Maybe prevent future stripping...
+jrmym2
I wondered that myself but in reality they really shouldn't see that much use. The force on the pin from the connecting rod should transfer through the bushing, through the wedge and into the bracket holding the assembly together. The only thing that would stress the threads is torquing on them trying to tighten the wedge. Which if you get as MrPete222 says "Hammer and Chisel mechanics working on something you never know what damage they'll do."
+jrmym2 As much thread as we have in there - the entire length is threaded - I doubt it would make much difference. Lots of surface area. The original part lasted 98 years and it was not any harder than the one I made.
When those split bronze bearing pieces wear I assume you adjust using the wedge. I didn't see any shims just the wedge to press the two halves together. What is the criteria used when adjusting the wedge? Do the mating halves of the bronze bearings come in contact with each other?
+hankus253
If they do then they need to be replaced because they have badly worn. Usually on something like that. I would think it would be poured milled and bored as one piece. Then a machinist would split the piece to print and mill away a little bit off of both piece to give some room for wear. When those pieces touch they are no longer properly supporting the pin.
+garygsp3 Maybe Keith will respond and explain how they are adjusted. You can't just crank up the wedge until tight, there must be some sort of clearance measurement observed.
As an industrial mechanic I've used round feeler gauges to set connecting rods before. However nothing ever this big. There is going to have to be clearance between the pin and the bushing but I wouldn't begin to know how to set it. I do know these joints are constantly bathed in oil VIA the oil pots that sit on top of them.
+hankus253 Over time, the mating bearings will wear to the point that they do come in contact with each other. When this happens, you have to mill out more clearance where they mate with one another and if necessary put shims behind the bearing halves to take up the wear. And at some point, it would become necessary to just replace the bearings all together. The problem we have is that our bearings do not appear to have ever been replaced and there are a lot more shims behind them than I am really comfortable with. One of the two bearings that we were working on had shims that were over 3/4" thick behind one of the bearings! Of course, assuming that these bearings are original to the locomotive, they have been in use for 98 years, so I guess that is not too bad from a wear stand point....
You have to check the DRO time to time to be sure it shows right. It would really suck if it fex was off by say 5 thou, that could be hard to detect if not looked carefully and could make really bad problems when made something.
+dtiydr I find that the DRO is usually right or or way off. I have not had problems with it being only a little bit off like that.
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Ok, that was good to know Personally however I usually check them 2 - 3 times a year to be 100% sure, I don't know I might be to picky.
Hello my name is Leo your real steam locomotive is fantastic, I want to
built one like yours, I have disponible all metallic machine like lathe
and vertical drill ecc ecc to realize all pieces necessary, but I need
about project and construction plan. I think that to begin will be
sufficient realize a locomotive with not more of 3 axes. Now have you
disponible a project/power plan of construction ecc ecc for a locomotive
with 7 3/4" gauge that can be able to start for me??? Thank so much Leo
What happened at 19:25? Did the vice loosen?
+MrPlusses
Work piece moved.
+MrPlusses I thought I was seeing things. The work did move.
+MrPlusses Yes it did. I stopped the camera, reset the part and tightened the vise a bit more and that took care of it.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Thanks for the reply. hope you and your family had a great Thanksgiving.
I think there is a way to have the vice oriented in such a way that the fixed back jaw is behind the block being cut so that it is less likely to move. Maybe someone would have a picture of such a setup.
Keith...
please expound on climb milling...I've seen back and forth on the x axis, always told to front load the cutter on x passes... if the machine is stout, shouldn’t make a difference.
I agree. When would you choose to climb mill?
+tim wyman Imagine an old worn out machine with 0.100 worth of slop in the x axis lead screw (extreme example, makes it easy to visualize) in conventional cutting, the cutter is pushing it the opposite the feed, keeping it on the same side of the lead screw. In climb milling the cutter is pulling the part the same way as the feed. If the cutter gets a good hold on the part, it will pull it that 0.100 worth of backlash, and the next edge that comes down get to bite off 0.100 of metal instead of the expected 0.005 or so. Clunk, boom, broken something.
Hi mate. Now I know that I'm not the sharpest tool in the six pack, but you could have retained that block by just oversize the thread, or weld it shut and re-tap it. Why did you go for a new part instead? I always think, the more newly made parts, the less original the machine, don't you think?
+Marcel Timmers
Yeah it's kind of like the story of the man who won an award for saving the town money by using the same broom for 30 years. When asked how he did it he replied with. "Well when the handle broke I replaced it, when the bristles wore out I put new ones on." So was he still using the same broom? Of course not. The original broom had long since been thrown away.
Now with that said will it be all original? No of course not. It hasn't been all original since it left the factory where it was made. Parts are made to wear and be replaced. Hence the bronze bushings for the connecting rods. Brake shows would likely be another one. Once I start thinking about it I can easily come up with a few dozen things that are either easily broken or worn out with use.
The key is this. Is the replacement part made back to 1917 factory spec? In the case of the wedge Keith is working on yes I would say it is. On the wedge he showed us in part one where the back corners weren't rounded no likely not. That still doesn't take away the majestic beauty of a by gone era.
Hi mate. You'r quite right. I was not saying that new parts should not be made/installed, but I like it if the old parts are tried to be retained as long as possible. Not only for pure ecstatics but also for monetary reasons.
+Marcel Timmers An oversize thread was not really an option here - that would have required drilling out the other parts that the bolt goes through oversize as well. As for the tapped hole, I decided it was better to just make a new one than trying to fix this one. Because of the depth of that hole - several inches deep - it would have been difficult to weld up and probably would not have had great results. I am all about keeping original parts when possible, but I would rather have a new part built to original specs than a cobbled up repair that might fail.
Ok mate fair enough, I was just thinking aloud.
great! is part 2 still coming?
+Guy Barry Should post on Friday morning.
Thanks, love a good cliffhanger :) and thoroughly enjoy watching your videos.
is it just my eyes, or did your stock slip in the vice on that first ¼" pass?
+ArcAiN6 It did. I stopped the machine, straightened it out, and re-tightened it and did not have any further issues.
:) hate when that happens.
35 years machining never trusted D.R.O. when they first came out I guess I am old school always dial indicators
+Charlie Wood I love my DRO, but sometimes you just can't beat a dial indicator. And on critical measurements, I sometimes use both!
part slipped at the 19:ish mark
+ken cullum It did. I reset the part and tighte4ned the vise some more and had no more problems.
Could you not have made a threaded stepped insert instead of making a whole new wedge?
+Peter Fletcher Possibly, but I would be worried about it working out due to the tightening and loosing of the bolt used to make adjustments.
Hmm european tools ? 0.160 inch ends up at kinda exactly 4mm =)
+Tomas Wilhelmsson Yeah, kind of strange that a 1" arbor has a 4 mm keyway though. I hate it when they mix systems like that....
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Yeap, we had a time here in sweden atleast when stuff were mixed i think.. i think the lathe i have for example, a South Bend clone the "Blomqvist" had different systems on it, some screws were imperial and some were metric etc.. could be something done by someone after it was made but.. and i know some engines had mixed screws and stuff.. its a horror to deal with =)
Oops (time 19:25) lucky it didn't go any worse than that :-)
+RGSneaker I stopped the camera, reset the part and tightened it better and it did not move again....
why remake instead of helicoil it?
+Shaun Tucker Never seen a helicoil that long. The part is threaded the entire depth. Not so sure that a helicoil would be ideal for an adjustment screw either where you are constantly adjusting things. They are better suited for tightening something down and leaving it alone.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org. OK makes sense thanks for all your videos and for taking the time to answer me
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Helicoils can be stacked for more length, no problem. That said, Helicoils are still not the right repair for the wedge due to the issues Keith mentioned.
this milling machine work with shakes is bad too bad
Love your videos, Keith. I know it's not up to you, but "What if ... " you didn't have to see the same lame commercial before every video! Not just yours, nearly everyone's. RUclips must own that stupid charger company.
+Yan Wo For what it is worth, RUclips recently introduced "RUclips Red", which basically lets you pay a subscription and ditch the ads. I have not tried it myself yet, but that is about the only way you will probably see them go away.
+Yan Wo ublock for firefox web browser (youtubers hate it when people say this, so sorry keith) gets rid of them all
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Install AdBlock+ and you will never have any idea that advertising is a part of a site. It is seamless, it works great, and it is free. What commercials?
omg please use gloves
Why?
Gloves are REALLY dangerous on a mill