I like to paint my buildings a lot like what you say in the video. The only "extra" step I do often is to put a bit of a earthy-brown wash over the whole thing, since I figure that since it's in a warzone, there'll be dust and grunge settling over it all, and the wash ties all the bits and pieces together. I'm not really careful with that step either and slopping on a wash is also pretty quick to get done. However, I'll make exceptions for buildings and structures that are meant to be objectives or points of interest; I paint the containers I have in muted reds, greens and blues, for example, or go a bit extra making a silo look like rusty metal. Thanks for the video!
I discovered pretty much this painting style a couple of months ago and have been using it ever since, its awesome to not to have to bother with washes. While i do like the quite stark slightly monochrome look, i do add some more color. I like the dab on some drab brown on the bottom and some light brown to the top, i usually dont remove as much paint as if i were drybrushing from the brush. I do the same randomly all around with some darker and yellower greens to make it look moldy. If you stop at this stage though it will look pretty meh. However frok 40k terrain i like to paint the broken machines on the wall bronze and the exposed wall steel, put some Nihilak Oxide on the bronze and then rust up the steel. As a finishing touch dab some dark brown on these to grease them up and dull down the oxide, also you can add some burn marks by dabbing on some black. The whole thing ends up looking like a drab mess, but thats the point.
Immediately noticed that with the metal floor. The edge was too clear, throw in the same wash at least across the edge and it'll look way less freshly assembled.
I love doing terrain as a kind of " pallet cleanser" between projects, even though it's usually a peice related to those projects. Spray cans are definitely the way to go for base coating, then drybrushing in gradually lightening tones, finishing with a few specific details here and there...It can be as simple or complex as you like really, but who wants to spend more time than necessary? Thanks for the video! They tend to inspire me to get back to the workbench and get stuck in!
Thanks Uncle Atom, terrain is something that is at the bottom of my list for things to paint (mainly because of time restrictions). This has helped me realise what you have been saying for a while about getting the most return for the effort spent! Having some reasonably painted terrain helps to keep the immersion that makes wargaming so fun.
I legitimately feel like I needed you to make this video. I have a terrible problem with not being able to paint less than as good as I can... even with terrain. I found my self thinking of ways to mask of parts for airbrushing today while day dreaming... but damn it, youre right... if I spend all that time, its going to take away from the minis. This is my official decree, all of my GW terrain will be painted quick and easy, uncle atom style! Thanks uncle atom, for the great video yet again.
That's a helpful video thanks. The post-it notes idea is dead sneaky. I like the 'you can stop here' system. Gives encouragement and prompts - I started thinking bit of miss on ground, oil stains on the floor. A solid base to work with. Thanks.
I love whenever he describes a GW kit he's like "Yeah its some kind of industrial warzone, combat bunker something or other" because he rightfully can't be bothered to remember the silly names GW gives all of these things.
Such a useful video, I especially appreciate the thought that not every detail necessarily has to be picked out in a million colours. That has made me think twice about how I can quickly get my terrain looking effective.
This post is really helping me blow through some Octarius Terrain. For the longest time, it sat unpainted and unutilized because of how long it was going to take to paint. This also slowed down entry into Kill Team because my local gaming group loved the customization in the previous edition more. Hopefully this helps us jump into Octarius and subsequently, Into the Dark. Thanks Uncle Atom!
Uncle Atom is my favorite superhero. He wears a fez to cover his giant brain -- embiggened by the vast amount of miniature hobby knowledge he's accumulated throughout the millennia. Spreading his ancient wisdom to make the hobby a better place, and saving us from the evil plots of Time-Waster and Sir Spend-a-Lot. Hooray for Uncle Atom!!!
Some great tips in this video. Painting terrain is also a great way to hone your painting skills and transfer it over to figurines. Make big mistakes on the terrain (trial and error) transfer the knowledge over. Thanks for sharing.
After a week of painting that command edition terrain and being about half way done, if I ever get any more terrain like that I will be keeping it simple. So many wires holy moly. Alot of oops I got a bit of black on that pristine beige wall, time to spend an hour fixing all of the bits I accidentally touched. Definitely let your washes wash, so over it aha. Could of painted a whole box of marines by now.
Your videos are brilliant! I really like the idea that we should not spend much time on difficult techniques like edge highlighting or on painting every detail on terrain
I painted my KT terrain with black primer + rhinox hide drybrush and loved how it looked. After that I could pick out any small details I wanted without spending too much on it.
I do this technique but with washes of Agrax Earthshade and Athonian Camoshade, including on the floors, with added layer of Typhus Corrosion on the base features where the ruin meets the floor. Ruins cannot be too messy, just so long as its not too busy. But the washes help mute any colours used.
Perfectly timed video, pick up this kit on ebay just last week. Only primed black so far awaiting time to paint. Will be painting to keep with my manufactorum theme. Nice expansion kit.
I knabbed the Vertigus battlezone box and I'm just waiting for some citadel primers to come in before priming weather is gone for the fall/winter. It's gonna look so good with my other mechanicum terrain! :D
Thanks for the great advice that terrain shouldn't take the focus of our models. As a (kind of) perfectionist terrain always seemed to be not so perfect as my models.. now I can see why that isnt a problem! Onward to drybrushing my walls and Trees!
I like painting my urban terrain almost in greyscale, as it makes the miniatures pop a lot. Spray it black, then do a zenital highlighting with white spray, it there's any sort of detail, like a banner hanging on a wall, sure I will paint it with manually with a brush, but I won't put the same effort I would if was painting a miniature. In the end, I will freehand some graffiti on the walls, taking inspiration from the graffiti I see when walking around in the street.
I tend to use lots of color in my terrain but I tend to dull them down quite a bit compared to my models. My craftworlds for example are black with BRIGHT GREEN and YELLOW details, while most of my terrain is a dirty gunmetal with details picked out in various colors. But those colors are all muted compared to the bright greens and yellows on my minis. So gas canisters might be red or striped yellow with caution signs but they will be dulled with age and heavily hit with agrax or nuln oil to really tone down how much they 'pop'.
It's beginning to look a lot like Fezmas. Good tips, thanks! We're fast running out of aerosol (rattle can) priming weather unfortunately - I use Army Painter brush on primer a lot of the time on my minis, but not on larger terrain stuff.
I'd like to take a moment to draw attention to the excellent production value of this video. Not only is the content excellent, salient, clear, and to-the-point, the lighting has been creatively applied well, with the picture showing appropriate depth of field for effect, great framing and shot off sticks. But best of all is the sound, which is excellent. So often neglected across all of YT, this video shows how important it is to get the sound just right. Many channels in this area tend to buy a bunch of kit, and frustratingly mis-apply the lot of it - especially the sound - which is a frustration. The idea is to facilitate the experience of your viewer as best possible, which this video does most successfully. The issue is a lay audience will put up with lower production qualities and videos taking hours to make a point, I'm flagging this up in an effort to raise standards. Great tip with the post-its, by the way.
Uncle Atom! What color did you use for the drybrushed gold (EDIT: brass) on the floors? it looks fantastic! Thank you as always for the content, you've helped me come to terms with my beginner paintjobs, not to be discouraged when looking at pros and to motivate myself to paint and practice more!
@@_FoxHoleCharlie_ I unfortunately never did find which specific paint it was but I noticed SIgmarite or Golden Griffon Dry paints worked nicely enough (I don't remember which one I used)
@@_FoxHoleCharlie_ Ok disregard my last comment, I just noticed another person got a reply from Atom: "I drybrushed a color called Rich Gold from Monument Hobbies’ Pro Acryl paint line over the black primer."
Is that fez the standard model with a volterator, or is it one of the deluxe models with planetary generator, an astroscope, or an electron sorter? How do you access the intensifier disk? Asking for a friend (called 'Brack').
Great video, almost wish I didn’t watch it since I just primed my original kill team starter box terrain in rustoleum grey. Do you suggest going back and starting over with a black instead?
terrain it's big and you think that it's easy to paint but you have to prime, paint wash and detail paint. To quote Pubic Enemy it's 'harder than you think'. I have loads of airbrushes but the rattle cans are the way to go with terrain, I don't want to be cleaning up and filling my airbrush cup every 4 minutes with Zandri Dust from the paint pot.
This is why we should transfer our GW paints from the crappy sealing paint pots to lovely, easy to use and far less likely to dry out dropper bottles! 15ml, 20ml and 30ml dropper bottles are easy to find and cheap on sites like Amazon. I also would buy 6mm solid glass balls as an agitator for each bottle too. But that is just me.
@@Winterydee I bought a load of Drop Top nozzles from the recent Kickstarter to try and solve this. YT channel MAlaga Wargames claims that the Drop Tops are best for Contrast Paints and Washes (the more liquidy paints) but I intend to use them for the ordinary GW Base and Edge Highlighting paints also. Wish me luck. Also metal balls are a must for me.
@@davedogge2280 - Skip the metal balls... if they are the wrong types of metal they could react with the paint. With the glass balls you do not have to worry about it reacting at all and they tend to be sold in bag of about 1000 for around $10.00.
@@davedogge2280 - Also here is a link to Vince Venturella from his Hobby Cheating series that covers Transferring and Thinning GW paints. ruclips.net/video/RQAnSrOpH3U/видео.html
Terrain is just as important as the figures. They are all part of the same world and need to be created equally. Without a world, you are just floating in nothingness.
Dude, you talk way too much. You take too long to actually reach the core of the subject matter. I don't need your personal life experience with a specific style. Just get to the substance quicker.
It’s cool how we can learn something new at any given moment in this hobby. Today, for me, it’s to use Post It notes for masking.
The over all effect is cool; however, that colour on the floor is simply amazing.
I like to paint my buildings a lot like what you say in the video. The only "extra" step I do often is to put a bit of a earthy-brown wash over the whole thing, since I figure that since it's in a warzone, there'll be dust and grunge settling over it all, and the wash ties all the bits and pieces together. I'm not really careful with that step either and slopping on a wash is also pretty quick to get done.
However, I'll make exceptions for buildings and structures that are meant to be objectives or points of interest; I paint the containers I have in muted reds, greens and blues, for example, or go a bit extra making a silo look like rusty metal. Thanks for the video!
I discovered pretty much this painting style a couple of months ago and have been using it ever since, its awesome to not to have to bother with washes. While i do like the quite stark slightly monochrome look, i do add some more color. I like the dab on some drab brown on the bottom and some light brown to the top, i usually dont remove as much paint as if i were drybrushing from the brush. I do the same randomly all around with some darker and yellower greens to make it look moldy. If you stop at this stage though it will look pretty meh. However frok 40k terrain i like to paint the broken machines on the wall bronze and the exposed wall steel, put some Nihilak Oxide on the bronze and then rust up the steel. As a finishing touch dab some dark brown on these to grease them up and dull down the oxide, also you can add some burn marks by dabbing on some black. The whole thing ends up looking like a drab mess, but thats the point.
Immediately noticed that with the metal floor. The edge was too clear, throw in the same wash at least across the edge and it'll look way less freshly assembled.
I love doing terrain as a kind of " pallet cleanser" between projects, even though it's usually a peice related to those projects. Spray cans are definitely the way to go for base coating, then drybrushing in gradually lightening tones, finishing with a few specific details here and there...It can be as simple or complex as you like really, but who wants to spend more time than necessary? Thanks for the video! They tend to inspire me to get back to the workbench and get stuck in!
Thanks Uncle Atom, terrain is something that is at the bottom of my list for things to paint (mainly because of time restrictions). This has helped me realise what you have been saying for a while about getting the most return for the effort spent! Having some reasonably painted terrain helps to keep the immersion that makes wargaming so fun.
The post-it trick is gold! Masking is tedious and annoying, this saves time and effort
I legitimately feel like I needed you to make this video. I have a terrible problem with not being able to paint less than as good as I can... even with terrain. I found my self thinking of ways to mask of parts for airbrushing today while day dreaming... but damn it, youre right... if I spend all that time, its going to take away from the minis. This is my official decree, all of my GW terrain will be painted quick and easy, uncle atom style! Thanks uncle atom, for the great video yet again.
Posted notes, Brilliant!
From a 25 year wargaming veteran, Thank you
That's a helpful video thanks. The post-it notes idea is dead sneaky. I like the 'you can stop here' system. Gives encouragement and prompts - I started thinking bit of miss on ground, oil stains on the floor. A solid base to work with. Thanks.
I love whenever he describes a GW kit he's like "Yeah its some kind of industrial warzone, combat bunker something or other" because he rightfully can't be bothered to remember the silly names GW gives all of these things.
Such a useful video, I especially appreciate the thought that not every detail necessarily has to be picked out in a million colours. That has made me think twice about how I can quickly get my terrain looking effective.
This post is really helping me blow through some Octarius Terrain. For the longest time, it sat unpainted and unutilized because of how long it was going to take to paint. This also slowed down entry into Kill Team because my local gaming group loved the customization in the previous edition more. Hopefully this helps us jump into Octarius and subsequently, Into the Dark. Thanks Uncle Atom!
Great video, the post it note thingy is genius.
what i also like to do is to sponge in some dark greens light greens an yellows. It a quick and easy step to add some moss effects on buildings.
Uncle Atom is my favorite superhero. He wears a fez to cover his giant brain -- embiggened by the vast amount of miniature hobby knowledge he's accumulated throughout the millennia. Spreading his ancient wisdom to make the hobby a better place, and saving us from the evil plots of Time-Waster and Sir Spend-a-Lot. Hooray for Uncle Atom!!!
Some great tips in this video. Painting terrain is also a great way to hone your painting skills and transfer it over to figurines. Make big mistakes on the terrain (trial and error) transfer the knowledge over. Thanks for sharing.
That's the video I've been waiting for, since you presented your painted killteam terrain in the killteam box review video! Absolutely fantastic!
After a week of painting that command edition terrain and being about half way done, if I ever get any more terrain like that I will be keeping it simple. So many wires holy moly. Alot of oops I got a bit of black on that pristine beige wall, time to spend an hour fixing all of the bits I accidentally touched.
Definitely let your washes wash, so over it aha. Could of painted a whole box of marines by now.
Your videos are brilliant! I really like the idea that we should not spend much time on difficult techniques like edge highlighting or on painting every detail on terrain
This is a great tutorial, just out of curiosity what paint did you use for the gold metallic? Looks fantastic
I'm looking down the barrel right now that we call terrain. This video really helped. Thanks a lot 😁
I painted my KT terrain with black primer + rhinox hide drybrush and loved how it looked. After that I could pick out any small details I wanted without spending too much on it.
That vertigus/command edition terrain is push fit. if you spray it on the joints, those floors don't need gluing in/or masking off at all.
I do this technique but with washes of Agrax Earthshade and Athonian Camoshade, including on the floors, with added layer of Typhus Corrosion on the base features where the ruin meets the floor. Ruins cannot be too messy, just so long as its not too busy. But the washes help mute any colours used.
Another great video Atom. Gonna start painting the same terrain for Indomitus.
I got the same kit as a gift for Christmas so this was very helpful.
Excellent video! I’ve been hemming and hawing on how to paint my terrain. This video help immensely! Thanks Uncle Atom!
You know, I just typed "spray warhammer terrain" into the search bar, and I'm so happy it led me back to dear uncle.
Perfectly timed video, pick up this kit on ebay just last week. Only primed black so far awaiting time to paint. Will be painting to keep with my manufactorum theme. Nice expansion kit.
I knabbed the Vertigus battlezone box and I'm just waiting for some citadel primers to come in before priming weather is gone for the fall/winter. It's gonna look so good with my other mechanicum terrain! :D
Thanks for the idea of the post-it notes, great idea. Something so simple.
Gotta try the postIt thing.... regular masking tape often lifts paint off plastic.
Any tips for storing/transporting terrain? It's so big and cumbersome when you have a ruined building all assembled.
magnetize dont glue so you can take bits apart
Plastic Christmas ornament totes work perfect for a lot of smaller things.
Perfect! I JUST got three boxes of terrain kits in the door for a weekend painting project with a friend. The odds!
nice video, nice to see a "sometimes less is more approach". also wonder what bronzey/brass was used looks really nice
Me after spending 3 hours only to ruin a tiny piece of terrain... This guy makeup brush and he's done in minutes
Post it notes? That's totally brilliant. Good video.
Sooooo.....I purchased some makeup brushes and I have to say.....I'm never going back . It's a game changer for terrain
Thanks for the great advice that terrain shouldn't take the focus of our models. As a (kind of) perfectionist terrain always seemed to be not so perfect as my models.. now I can see why that isnt a problem!
Onward to drybrushing my walls and Trees!
Great video, thanks. Inspired to get painting some terrain that has been sitting in my closet for the last year.
I like painting my urban terrain almost in greyscale, as it makes the miniatures pop a lot. Spray it black, then do a zenital highlighting with white spray, it there's any sort of detail, like a banner hanging on a wall, sure I will paint it with manually with a brush, but I won't put the same effort I would if was painting a miniature. In the end, I will freehand some graffiti on the walls, taking inspiration from the graffiti I see when walking around in the street.
The way you do stone, do you think that would work for statues? Or for a field of creatures that had been petrified by a Medusa or Gorgon?
I think it would work well for that.
Thank you I was worried my terrain wouldn't look good enough but I don't want it to take away from my other minis
I tend to use lots of color in my terrain but I tend to dull them down quite a bit compared to my models. My craftworlds for example are black with BRIGHT GREEN and YELLOW details, while most of my terrain is a dirty gunmetal with details picked out in various colors. But those colors are all muted compared to the bright greens and yellows on my minis. So gas canisters might be red or striped yellow with caution signs but they will be dulled with age and heavily hit with agrax or nuln oil to really tone down how much they 'pop'.
What was the bronzed color you used on the flooring? I'm trying to match it with the paints i have!!!
I kinda prefer terrain and models both be done to the 9s if possible, but yeah I get your point for sure.
How did I miss this video!?
Notes is a very clever trick, thank you !
How do I use my airbrush to do the first and second step after Priming? Im trying to learn how to do most things without brushes.
It's beginning to look a lot like Fezmas. Good tips, thanks! We're fast running out of aerosol (rattle can) priming weather unfortunately - I use Army Painter brush on primer a lot of the time on my minis, but not on larger terrain stuff.
I'd like to take a moment to draw attention to the excellent production value of this video. Not only is the content excellent, salient, clear, and to-the-point, the lighting has been creatively applied well, with the picture showing appropriate depth of field for effect, great framing and shot off sticks. But best of all is the sound, which is excellent. So often neglected across all of YT, this video shows how important it is to get the sound just right.
Many channels in this area tend to buy a bunch of kit, and frustratingly mis-apply the lot of it - especially the sound - which is a frustration. The idea is to facilitate the experience of your viewer as best possible, which this video does most successfully.
The issue is a lay audience will put up with lower production qualities and videos taking hours to make a point, I'm flagging this up in an effort to raise standards.
Great tip with the post-its, by the way.
Excellent video! How was the brass floor done? It looks amazing!
I drybrushed a color called Rich Gold from Monument Hobbies’ Pro Acryl paint line over the black primer. Thanks for watching!
Uncle Atom! What color did you use for the drybrushed gold (EDIT: brass) on the floors? it looks fantastic! Thank you as always for the content, you've helped me come to terms with my beginner paintjobs, not to be discouraged when looking at pros and to motivate myself to paint and practice more!
Oh man I came looking for a comment like this and no answer! Did you ever find something similar?
@@_FoxHoleCharlie_ I unfortunately never did find which specific paint it was but I noticed SIgmarite or Golden Griffon Dry paints worked nicely enough (I don't remember which one I used)
@@_FoxHoleCharlie_ Ok disregard my last comment, I just noticed another person got a reply from Atom: "I drybrushed a color called Rich Gold from Monument Hobbies’ Pro Acryl paint line over the black primer."
@@JohnnyLeyenda awesome man thanks and happy hobbing!
@@_FoxHoleCharlie_ Same to you! 😁
What gw paints would you recommend to achieve this scheme. I love it and am terrible with colors
Quite helpful!m for the post it trick!
Great video- you have just saved me HOURS of time. Cheers especially for the tip about post it notes :-) Much appreciated.
Is that fez the standard model with a volterator, or is it one of the deluxe models with planetary generator, an astroscope, or an electron sorter? How do you access the intensifier disk? Asking for a friend (called 'Brack').
What mic setup do you use? My wife and I have started a yt channel and she wants her videos to sound like yours XD
Do you have a tutorial on how you did those brass floors?
Great video, almost wish I didn’t watch it since I just primed my original kill team starter box terrain in rustoleum grey. Do you suggest going back and starting over with a black instead?
Uncle Atom keeping it real. Giter Done!
lots of great info, thanks
Love it! Great video!!
Have you ever tried using streaking grime on your terrain?
interesting, that's a technique I usually only use for rust.
Is the game for app still a thing? I had to uninstall it for a bit and now I'm trying to find it again. Seems to be gone
Damn it, I would have needed this video a month ago :(
Post it notes!!! Game-changer!!
thank you so much for the information it really heled me out
TYME is money?
Great wiz hat!
Damn, I like your vdo's!
you could also argue that because it's 40k they wouldn't bother to pain pipes the same paint as the building
Two or more materials is a requirement when I paint. Otherwise I just don't feel it.
omg that post it trick is amazing
terrain it's big and you think that it's easy to paint but you have to prime, paint wash and detail paint. To quote Pubic Enemy it's 'harder than you think'. I have loads of airbrushes but the rattle cans are the way to go with terrain, I don't want to be cleaning up and filling my airbrush cup every 4 minutes with Zandri Dust from the paint pot.
This is why we should transfer our GW paints from the crappy sealing paint pots to lovely, easy to use and far less likely to dry out dropper bottles! 15ml, 20ml and 30ml dropper bottles are easy to find and cheap on sites like Amazon. I also would buy 6mm solid glass balls as an agitator for each bottle too. But that is just me.
@@Winterydee I bought a load of Drop Top nozzles from the recent Kickstarter to try and solve this. YT channel MAlaga Wargames claims that the Drop Tops are best for Contrast Paints and Washes (the more liquidy paints) but I intend to use them for the ordinary GW Base and Edge Highlighting paints also. Wish me luck. Also metal balls are a must for me.
@@davedogge2280 - Skip the metal balls... if they are the wrong types of metal they could react with the paint. With the glass balls you do not have to worry about it reacting at all and they tend to be sold in bag of about 1000 for around $10.00.
@@davedogge2280 - Also here is a link to Vince Venturella from his Hobby Cheating series that covers Transferring and Thinning GW paints.
ruclips.net/video/RQAnSrOpH3U/видео.html
@@Winterydee yeah I buy brand name only AK Interactive etc they should be ok
Terrain is just as important as the figures. They are all part of the same world and need to be created equally. Without a world, you are just floating in nothingness.
FEZ!
air brushing is better for the enviroment
We wear the same hat in my planet
Great video. BUT! Terrain models are models should stand out , like models.
#It's becoming fez weather - let's make that happen 🤣🤣🤣
But what if you love terrain. Like me.
Like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm
I'll spend as much fucking time on terrain as I want
Dude, you talk way too much. You take too long to actually reach the core of the subject matter. I don't need your personal life experience with a specific style. Just get to the substance quicker.