STOP 🛑 Putting the brakes on this PROJECT BOAT!!
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- Опубликовано: 7 май 2024
- Thanks for following our family on our sailing adventures.
In this weeks episode we finally make a proper job of installing the anchor windlass system, which are in effect the brakes of the boat, well the parking brake anyway, and that means we can sleep comfortably when we're anchoring and not have to be in expensive marinas all the time.
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I would advise swapping one set of connections round, so the power leads dont both come from the same battery then parallel to the other best practice says take the positive from one battery, and the negative from the other, then link thm to the other battery, this helps protect a single battery from a massive drain and allows both batteries to contribute equally.
Ohhhh yes! You’re right actually. I’d forgotten that!
Exactly!
In order to keep balance between the two batteries, one cable should start from one battery and the other from the second...
On our windlass setup I added a wireless remote I bought from Amazon for £18. It provides an alternative that works from the cockpit. The remote isn’t waterproof but it’s still working 2 years later. It backs up the foot buttons at the anchor.
Seriously Andy, you have to be the most versatile paramedic I’ve ever met! How on earth do you get all this diverse knowledge into your head?
That’s very kind of you. I guess I spend an lot of time learning stuff 🤷♂️
When I drill out holes for a deck fitting I do the following:
1 drill holes and dry fit
2 take a sharp 90 degree pick or Allen key and ream out the core inside each hole to 1/2 inch depending on hole size,
3 tape off underside of holes,
4 fill holes from topside with thickened resin, ensuring resin is inside hole (use pick to spread it in)
5 redrill holes
6 seal and secure fitting as needed.
There’s something about a well groomed man in a chain locker! Well done as always!
Hahahaha best comment ever!!!
Perhaps consider adding cable seals on that electrical connection box...or at least silicone?
Yes!!! That’s a great idea
The round black rubber type of grommets will do, just cut them so you don’t need to disconnect the wire, just feed them onto the lip of the plastic hole, around the wire. Looks good Andy, great haircut too ✂️✔️ Hope the family are well soon, ttfn
I totaly agree with that, especialy as it's in the same locker as a wet chain.
Was going to say that would be a lot better
@@SailingMelody cable glands...they are made ad hoc for the boxes letting the wire in and water stays out
I have followed you for so long now, I have so much admiration for you all as a family. Your hard work and expertise really are an inspiration. Warmest love and best wishes to you all for a speedy recovery. Xx
Thank you so much!
Andy, someone said in a comment that you can't have the power holes higher than the box hole. Well you can if you bring the leads down past the entery hole and then bring the wire back up putting a U bend in the wire. That way any water travelling down the wire will drip off the bottom of the U bend and not enter the box.
❤Cliff.
You did a bang up job on that install 👍👍 feel better everyone❤
Thanks 🤩
Andy you look like a proper Welsh sailor with your beard on at this point, keep up the hard work!
lol thanks 🤩
Andy you have so many amazing skills, your family is very blessed 🥰⛵️⛵️⛵️⛵️🙏🙏
lol. Thanks. But they have to put up with the grumpy side of me too.
I’m the blessed onen
This is brilliant viewing Andy. I wish you and your family all the best. Living the Dream. Fantastic
Thanks 🤩
I love neat wiring. Well done!
Thank you. I do to when I have the time and money to do a proper job
Andy, make sure you put a plastic liner in your aluminum tube so you don’t get galvanic corrosion between the tubes and the bolts. Maybe your anti-seize does that. Also between the bolts and the windIass, assume the bolts are steel. You should also have a backer plate on the inside to distribute the loads.
Yeah I’ve put a tonne of paste in there for that reason. There isn’t the Clarence a plastic liner
Don't worry about the length of the videos. Great watching you getting the jobs done and working. That is the enjoyment of the videos. Best wish to all getting well.
Thanks 👍
Andy the edges of the lock gates on the Caledonian canal are made of oak and they last for years in both fresh and salt water.
Good point!
Nice video mate.
Great idea is line the anchor locker with old quarry conveyor belt. Strong rubber that prevents chain rattling against the fibreglass.
Also don’t have just the one anchor switch, like you said easy yo break. Run a triple cable from a 3 position switch at the helm to the relay. Backup to have 2 switches and also enables operating the anchor from the helm.
Happy sailing soon!
Hi Andy congrats to you all for selling Steel Melody it must be a weight of your mind, I noticed that when you wired up the windless that you left open holes in the enclosure that moisture can get into especially at the locker will be wet most of the time. take a look at IP68 Cable glands to help seal up around the cables and help prevent moisture ingress you can get them in most elecrtical suppliers such as City Electrical Factors or RS Componenets even Amazon, hope this helps
Yeah good points I’ll do that
Great work on that Windlass, you really do a professional job. Hope everyones feeling better by now. Nice to see you sat down cleaning those tools, good to see you relax for a bit.
Thank you ☺️
Great episode love it and I tried too keep still when the background music came in it’s impossible that’s so good I had too jiggle fantastic music ❤hope the family all get well soon and love the new 20 years young you ❤
Hahaha that’s cool
Hi Andy, unfortunately there’s a lot of keyboard experts. The definition of an expert is X is an unknown factor spurt is a drip under pressure. I think everything you are doing you do with a lot of wisdom I think that piece of Oak that would last as long as the deck is there. Keep up the good work. Don’t listen to the keyboard experts. Keep up the good work love and appreciate you all Cliff from Australia.
The biggest problems we have had with anchor windlasses have involved handheld remotes and having wires and relays inside your chain locker.
The first is fixed with rubber topped deck foot switches, which are far more reliable. Way more reliable.
The second is fixed by having no more wires than absolutely bloody necessary inside your (wet) chain locker. This drove me nuts for years and we only fixed it by removing all wiring from the chain locker except the three heavy wires to the windlass such that all other wiring, switches and relays were through the bulkhead AFT of the chain locker where they are always dry.
Chain lockers do not just get wet with water coming down the hawsehole with the chain, but also water coming up the drain holes when the bow dips into a wave. And if that’s not enough, when the boat takes green water over the bow, the hawsehole is 30-35mm+ and the drain holes are 8-12 mm max so the prospect of the chain locker being so incredibly wet that it interferes with the electrics is so high as to be through the stratosphere. I strongly recommend you change this around at some stage in the next few months. Having an unreliable anchor windlass is a real problem, especially if the problem occurs when you suddenly find yourself on a lee shore and have to get 50+ metres of chain with a 30kg anchor on the end of it back up on deck by hand in the middle of the night. That precise situation was the final catalyst for me to get all possible wiring out of the chain locker.
Something else you might want to pay really close attention to is the seal on the internal hatch of your chain locker. Neither you, nor Melissa more particularly, will be happy if your very adjacent bed in the v-berth is wet. Happy wife = happy life.
Great episode though. Forget the haircut, I really liked the purple top and orange pants at the start. Very daring 😎
Good points. Thanks for the input. I’m sure I’ll make lots of modifications and changes to what I have over time. It’s very rare to do something like this and stumble on the perfect setup first time
@@SailingMelody No worries, another tip we wish someone had given us is to always turn your windless breaker switch off when the anchor is up in your bow roller and have some positive method of retaining the anchor in the roller other than the windlass. We did serious damage to our bow when the anchor chain somehow released itself such that the anchor was swinging around whacking the hull around the bow and I had to get onto the bow at 2am with 30 knots over the deck to resecure it. We now simply tie it on using the snubber line (22mm) around a mooring cleat.
You’re doing a great job.
Couple of suggestions :
It looks like you’ve taken both pos and neg feeds off the same battery. If so, it would be better to swap one to the other battery.
Also suggest ensuring if you haven’t already that the junction box is waterproofed as best you can.
Hope everyone is getting better.
I can see just how hard you are working on all these preparations, just remember to keep focused and don't overdo it! By the way as a seafarer I can tell you it's NOT a hawse pipe. The correct name for your 'tube' is a 'spurling pipe' that is the one that takes the chain to its locker. You should really have some means to prevent water going down this. On ships you have a spurling pipe cover with a 'pudding' below that. On a yacht on an ocean crossing that could simply be anything to plug the hole around the chain, possible some foam packing with a lid with a slot in it to allow it to fit around the chain.
Oh that’s interesting on the name.
My plan with the pipe is to do what Skip Novak does and have a bung shackled onto the chain so that, on passage, we stow the anchor and attach the bung and rhe weight of the chain pulls the bung into the pipe to seal it. But I agree I will also need to make a cover for normal use
Well done Andy you can go to the pound shop or similar and get a plastic cutting board for under the anchor winch cheap . Cheers mate from Rick in Sydney Australia 🇦🇺
Brilliant job as usual Andy. Well executed, sturdy and safe. James.
Thanks 🤩
Great video thanks mate really appreciate all the hard work you guys put into the videos hope the family is feeling better soon👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
I like how you’ve got the batteries close to the windlass. Some folks have huge long cable runs. Just so much line loss with that.
Get well soon lovely people your yacht awaits 😊
Andy, great job on the windless. Really good video. The haircut looks fantastic. Hope Melissa and Oily are recovering, alright.
I'm looking forward to the next video
They’re actually recovered already. We’re a couple of weeks ahead on episodes so they’re fine now. But thanks for asking :)
The location of the isolator switch is near the exit of the chain, there maybe splash back :-(, so make sure you waterproof everything
Good call!
Brilliant job Andy, the patience and skill just keeps getting better and better, I hope the clan are feeling better soon, God bless
Andy PLEEEEASE play some more Guitar for us!!! You are so good I could watch you play all day. You are right up there with Eddie and Jimi with your talent.
Thank you 🤩 I will
Apart from the content which amazing, can congratulate you for the music background for the speed up videos rather than the usual RUclips noise,, it just shows the benefit of being a musician. Thank you.
Thanks, 🤩
Cable seals would be advisable I suggest to prevent the inevitable chafing against the box sides.
Yes! Several people have recommended this and you’re all correct it’s a good idea
I hope your felling better in your self and I hope the boss and the kids are ok 👍
well done Andy
Thanks 👍
Looks good! Cheers guys.. 😊
Thanks Trev :)
Plastic cutting boards, like Ikea, are really good baseplate materials 😊
Ikea has a 1,5mm cutting underlay plastic sheet - pro stuff when separating steel and aluminium 😊
It's good to see that your not rebuilding the whole boat before you leave. Just enough to get underway. Enjoy your journey now and do a little bit at a time. Can't wait to see your travels
On the battery wiring, to keep the batteries better balanced and to draw equally from each. The positive line going to the load should be hooked to one of them and the negative line going to the load should be hooked to the other one. This is true both in series and in parallel.
Ooooh. You look like a million bucks with the haircut.
Hahaha thanks
Colors, haircut sharp. May want to consider sealing off the wiring openings on the windlass control box. Boat projects, time, space, huh!
Yeah there’s a few improvements to be made to my work on this I think
It so nice that clean your self up you look so good🎉 just a good lolo have a grant mom day on sunday🎉
Hi Andy. Good job, bro, very tight down there. That breaker is very good 👍. It saves looking for a fuse like you said, very nice. Keep up the great work, Andy 👌👏👏🤩🇮🇪
Thanks so much :)
Awesome job as always
I wish I could have seen this before you put it in ...the sealant should cure first before you put any antisieze compound which you could use a syringe to force it into the tubing.
It looks excellent.
You could always get one of those big round things with poles sticking out and half a dozen folks walking round it while singing entertaining Sea Shanties, that would be a lot simpler for the Anchor 🙂Seriously though, hope everyone feels better soon, I have had a orrid cold, makes me feel right miserable.
Hey Guy's! Super episode. Oak is only affected by Iron! should last for years Nelson had ships made out of it. Thought you had a young blonde lad helping you crimp the battery leads? ( enough said about them and the junction box seals ) I had a pull by hand anchor once! Now got a one with a manual windlass 4 big bolts and a lever ,simple ! Remember, all these electronic gadgets are so flimsy? as you say. I would not have the nerve to make and sell them?????
Hahaha thank you ☺️
Great video, Andy! Good sailing plan, too. Nice haircut. 😎🥰👍
The chain locker: Andy’s happy place. 😂
Nice to see the sun does shine in Wales.
Yes it does. Not often but when it does it’s glorious
Andy, you did a great job with the windlass installation and I know you have a 1001 other jobs and a deadline but I need to mention the windlass electrics. First of all the connection box for the windlass power and control, this is a harsh environment and the box should have a rating of IP 65 (at a minimum), if your box had such a rating it certainly does not now as none of your cable penetrations are glanded. In addition it would be preferable to bring all the cables in from the bottom and using rated glands to maintain integrity. Finally, the breaker should be at the supply end of the circuit - as close to the battery as practically possible, you can achieve that if you fit through the bulkhead which your chest is leaning against at 31:30 in the video. I apologise for being an armchair critic but offer this constructively. 😀👍⛵️
The core in the deck needs protection from moisture. The tubes don’t do that. Remove some core around the holes, tape off the bottom of the holes, fill thoroughly with epoxy, let it harden and drill again. No aluminium tubes needed.
Good idea! I’ll do that
White oak is the oak to use. The fibers seal themselves from water entry and the wood last longer than others. Recoat it with spar urethane once a year I guess. I am guessing treat it close to teak. I even mix teak oil with my spar urethane, half and half, and put at least a half a dozen coats on it. Go get some white oak planks and store them for future use. And some spar urethane and teak oil.
And watch some youtubes on how to ammonia fume white oak if you want to make the wood dark like teak. You have to have protective breathing, eye and skin gear and do it outdoors using a sealed container for the wood. I fume for three days with 28% ammonia.
Massive difference with haircut !!! Went from stressed out man that looks in his mid/late 50's to a young man in his 40's enjoying life !!
lol. Result 😂
Great hair cut ! You look miles better !
You started to look like a pirate. It's a shame, because it reminded me of a day trip in the 90s on Lanzarote with an old schooner and an entertainer who looked like a pirate and offered honey rum to the seasick part of the people on board and always with the saying "drink, for the competition". Ship was running. I then searched half of Lanzarote for this delicious honey rum. When I found it in a shop not far from our hotel, I bought 6 bottles of it, 4 of which made it home.
Hahaha brilliant
Gawd what a tight fit ! I could not manage that myself ! Looking forward to you sailing the broad blue seas.
You and me both!
Well done! A bit of boat yoga on this job!
Hey Alex. How’s it going mate?
@@SailingMelody going great! Glad it’s finally got a bit warmer! Hopefully we can catchup on the water at some point!
Loving the new hairstyle 😊. Hope the family get well soon. Nice work btw.
Thank you!! 😊
Hey Crew,
Cool episode,
I was just thinking how cool Jack n Ollie's passports will look in a few years.
Don't think i saw the kettle or a cuppa tea .
poor Andy
Respect...!
lol. You’re right! My standards are dropping
No wish to criticise but your hawse pipe being totally vertical will let (invite) water into the bilge. You often see a 90 degree bend forward to avoid this, but this would be tricky with your installation, however you may be able to get away with a 'U' bend style attachment (maybe PVC?) to aid the water away from vertical entry. failing that, a canvas cover over the windlass and pipe will minimise water ingress. hope this is helpful.
Yes you're right I will need to remedy those potential issues for sure 😊
Andy, another spectacular wiring and installation on the windlass. We certainly are quite concerned about Melissa and Ollie. Best with your on going project's and can't wait for her maiden voyage.
Hey :) they’re both fine now. It was just a cold but thanks 🤩
Watch out for any water/condensation leaching (finding an easy route) from the winch wiring down into the electrical box.
Hmmmm. Yeah you’re right I need to keep an eye on that
Superman 🎉 Andy 🎉
Cool Lookin Hair Cut Dude!
The job you did on the windlass really looks good.
Enjoy.
That Oak won't give an issue for at least a decade particularly as with your use it will be pickled with salt (its not going to be a marina princess after all). At which point it will still be a good template for a replacement, also it likely will survive until you want to upgrade the winch anyway.
Andy, if the wood under the anchor windless is white oak, it’ll be a long time before rot sets in. I have a stack 3-4 year old white oak logs here in humid South Carolina that haven’t rotted yet. I think the wood fibers are so tight that they don’t absorb moisture.
Yeah it’s white oak :)
@@SailingMelody I’m sure you’re aware that White Oak was the wood of choice for wooden ship building back in the day.
You do need some compression glands where a cable enters a housing though 😉even plastic or glass reinforced housings can cut through insulation... edit, that is always ! Plus, keeps that salt laden air away from connections.
Yes you’re right there. Definitely things I want to do to improve on the setup but I ran out of time on the day
Allow me to congratulate the brand new member of the family as I wasn't around to welcome him, I am happy to be back to your channel again after a long absent due work commitments, with love from south Africa.. please say hi for me to captain jack.
Thank you 🤩
Maybe put a waterproof switch to cut off the power on the deck by the windlass.
That isolator is supposed to be waterproof and it’s in the forward locker but maybe I need a better one?
Haircut and beard look very cool....
The cables need to be lower than the holes in the box or water will run down and into the box .
Good observation thanks
@@SailingMelody Its years of being at sea lol also don't forget to use vasiline on the batt terminals it really helps protect them
Andy the pipe inn to the anchor locker I think you most making it wide because the chain can maybe block on the edge off the pipe.
You might be right. I’ll find out in time I guess
Those smaller diameter wires for the remote are probably only carrying a few milliamps, the power the relay requires.
Yes that’s right. But if they break then it still stops working 😂
Putting a separate battery for the windlass in the forepeak would be a good idea. That would minimize voltage drop to the winch motor.
Both those batteries are exactly that. They’re dedicated for then windlass and nothing else
Good Job👍🏽 Can’t with till your off sailing the world..‼️
Andy, I have just changed my hand held windlass control and installed deck mounted buttons because the wires in the control kept failing . I hope it is more successful than before! They certainly look more robust . We have yet to splash due to a cracked rudder. .. Peter Leyland (Yacht Brillig)
After the 3rd or 4th time of the windless 3 pin connector failing after long passages, I just hard wired the windless control wires and bypassed that connector.
You have get her down into place can find Dyi yard and plan things you think need doing. She solid but has some neglect and she is 50.
Get you a heat gun to shrink those covers instead of a lighter. Never mind I saw you had a torch.
Hahah yep 👍
Kind regards to Melissa and Oliver, as they get over their ailments. Get well soon!
Red Oak absorbs water like a sponge. White Oak is used on boats.
I have a comment about the heat shrink tube, it must have glue inside because it will pull moisture through the capillary (osmosis) effect, and the presence of voltage will lead to electrolysis, I am silent about sea water, even condensed water will lead to corrosion...
The stuff I’m using does have heat activated glue yes
@@SailingMelody this is good, because after shrinking, the thermal glue protrudes beyond the edge of the tube and this is visible, it is not visible in the video...
Better check to see if that Heli-coil is stainless steel ?
Perhaps a foot switch as a backup for the handheld ?
A pair of plastic battery boxes 🗃️ would help isolate the posts ❤
I’ll ask them
Andy Lad I think ya have passed ya Shipwrights apprentership now. Right that's enough project work must say nice job on windlass. Mines just how they mounted it issue ya given me some idea,s. Hey if ya can put people togetherish as a PARA this boat lark not an issue.😅 Now provision the boat for trip down South and go 😮😂. The other projects ya can do at Anchor or on the go.😅 Need to get to SEA away from all the bugs that making everyone one crook.😮 Right keep at it and carry on.😅😂
I think you hit the nail on the head, those three little wires could well be the Achilles heel of the system in the future, especially in such a corrosive environment. Maybe bury the soldered connection to the socket in sikaflex and keep wd40 on the plug in part.
To really find out what happens pour salt water over everything 4 or more times a day. Raise and lower anchor several times daily. After a month u will see.
As my dad used to say it’s only strong as its weakest link. I lost a race because a 2 cent snap ring broke.
Another great video. I woodn't worry about the oak, HMS Victory has been around awhile.
How is the anchor chain end secured inside the chain locker?
Thanks. I didn’t film that bit but I have a long bitter end secured to a stainless eye bolt with a large spreader plate. The bigger end rope come up and out of the pipe so that it can be cut loose from on deck in an emergency
I'm most impressed with your seemingly endless skill-set - well done! Will the new electrical setup for the windlass be protected from wet splashes from the incoming chain in shitty weather?
It’s not really in a place where it can get splashed to be honest but it’s something I’ll give some thought to
Raaa, I've got one of those crimp tools, they are the mustard!! I soldered (blow torch job...) my crimped connectors for 12v stuff from battery to inverter on caravan solar setup cos I'm paranoid
A very quite fit in the locker. You don't want forgetting something😅
I forget something every single time. I mean EVERY time 😂
@@SailingMelody just like me😂😂
Hi Andy, this might be a dumb question but do you need to spray something on the new nuts and connectors in those boxes to reduce corrosion? ALSO: The pigtails should be exactly the same length and the connectors to the switches need to be the same length.
The new nuts and threaded bar are all stainless and I’ve used anti galling paste
You wouldn't get me in that chain locker, it's too close. But needs must eh?
Getting my belly through that gap was hard work lol
May I add, if you are entering AC cables into a metal housing anywhere, always have live and neutral through the same hole/gland....never one conductor through one hole ! That one you can look up on tinternet, it aint allowed.
This is all 12v DC and the enclosure is plastic. But I will definitely add some glands for sure
Would the breaker be better closer to where it’s drawing power from ,that way if there is a short anywhere in the line going to windless it will trip
Yeah you’re right I’ll move it
🤣🤣 Andy, I was going to comment on your Worsel Gummage ( can't spell ) impression and I thought ,'no that is rude", then you transformed, you look years younger
Lmao. 🤣 that’s brilliant
I LOVE OceanFlex. Literally used hundreds of meters in an old sailboat refit. Is that isolator switch watertight and salt resistant?
Good points. I will look at moving the breaker