Thanks Bart! I believe I can HT this steel with proper effect now. However I need to work with this steel more, to avoid cracks during the forging... Every steel need some experience- that's why I use only few types of steel on my blades. Thanks for watching Man!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this steel. It does stand to reason that an integral bolster would act as a sort of heat sink during HT, but as you say it's likely the cracks actually formed during forging. I applaud you for learning a new steel!
Thanks Bryson! I bought this steel 2 years ago and it was waiting for the moment I be ready for it. NC6, like D2 steel is about 1,4-1.5%C- it's not dummy steel. It's good and I believe you can make knives with amazing performance but only if you learn how to HT it properly. I would say lesson learned :). I figure it out after the couple of day: there is also a possibility that the Oil I've used was too fast. I didn't thought about that because I've made 2 knives from NC6 and they didn't cracked. However the steel blanks was much thicker so the cooling down process took longer. Maybe this is why they didn't get cracked. I need to verify it on the next attempt. Thanks a lot support Bryson!
Thank you Rhodie33! Yes, I believe this is the right grain structure :). I'm not sure why there is a difference in hardness- maybe I've just didn't remove enough decarb from all the blade surface. Thanks a lot for the support!
Not to be a downer, but sometimes sticking with what steels you know how to forge won't end up in a headache/stress when the reason it failed could be a plethora of things. If you do want to stick with the NC6 than maybe start on a thin blade (stiletto-ish) and go thicker as you get accustomed to its reactions while forging, heat treating, and normalization cycles. Then if you run into trouble you might be able to backtrack and maybe pinpoint the intricacies of NC6?
You are 100% correct. That is why I don't sell knives from the steel I don't HT perfectly each time. This is the rule I follow. But better understanding how steel works by using different type of steel make you a better maker. Also you know from previous episode: integral bolster knife have a lot in common with the tongs if you making it. I want to try make blacksmith tools in the future- there is a lot of carbon steel not used to knives. Your suggestion about stiletto is very good- I was thinking about different shape of the knife (simpler). Stiletto is a good idea! Thanks Ozzy!
I love videos like this. Very informative! Well explained David, i hope you'll figure this steel out soon!
Thanks Bart! I believe I can HT this steel with proper effect now. However I need to work with this steel more, to avoid cracks during the forging... Every steel need some experience- that's why I use only few types of steel on my blades. Thanks for watching Man!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this steel. It does stand to reason that an integral bolster would act as a sort of heat sink during HT, but as you say it's likely the cracks actually formed during forging. I applaud you for learning a new steel!
Thanks Bryson! I bought this steel 2 years ago and it was waiting for the moment I be ready for it. NC6, like D2 steel is about 1,4-1.5%C- it's not dummy steel. It's good and I believe you can make knives with amazing performance but only if you learn how to HT it properly. I would say lesson learned :). I figure it out after the couple of day: there is also a possibility that the Oil I've used was too fast. I didn't thought about that because I've made 2 knives from NC6 and they didn't cracked. However the steel blanks was much thicker so the cooling down process took longer. Maybe this is why they didn't get cracked. I need to verify it on the next attempt. Thanks a lot support Bryson!
The grain structure on that blade perfect.
Thank you Rhodie33! Yes, I believe this is the right grain structure :). I'm not sure why there is a difference in hardness- maybe I've just didn't remove enough decarb from all the blade surface. Thanks a lot for the support!
Tolle Arbeit 👍
Thank you!
If it wouldn't be for situations like this, we would never learn anything. Keep it up bruh!
Exactly! Over all, this knife wasn't a big sacrifice considering knowledge I've gained. Thanks a lot for support Adam!
Not to be a downer, but sometimes sticking with what steels you know how to forge won't end up in a headache/stress when the reason it failed could be a plethora of things. If you do want to stick with the NC6 than maybe start on a thin blade (stiletto-ish) and go thicker as you get accustomed to its reactions while forging, heat treating, and normalization cycles. Then if you run into trouble you might be able to backtrack and maybe pinpoint the intricacies of NC6?
You are 100% correct. That is why I don't sell knives from the steel I don't HT perfectly each time. This is the rule I follow. But better understanding how steel works by using different type of steel make you a better maker. Also you know from previous episode: integral bolster knife have a lot in common with the tongs if you making it. I want to try make blacksmith tools in the future- there is a lot of carbon steel not used to knives.
Your suggestion about stiletto is very good- I was thinking about different shape of the knife (simpler). Stiletto is a good idea! Thanks Ozzy!
gooo D :-)
Hey Goran! We didn't spoke for a long time! Thanks a lot for watching Mate!