Thank you so much for this video!! I brought home a 1985 Coleman pop up a couple of weeks ago and after popping it up at home I couldn't get it to come down again! This video helped me understand the mechanics hidden behind the casing and which way my butterfly key should be in order to release the lift system. Just in time before a pending storm!! Thanks again Shona NSW AUSTRALIA
Top was not staying up. Was shown to over crank to reset it. It worked and stayed but when I lowered it back down there was loud clank noises. Now when I crank it to go up it is good for a few turns then super loud clank noise from bottom. Any ideas? 2005 Colman
We impulse bought a Coleman Destiny that appears to be a 1993. I think the crank assembly has been DIY modified, and I’m still not sure what it originally was built as. Currently, the screw drive shaft extends to just behind the bumper. There is a lock/unlock bracket that pulls out and in but serves no purpose. The hand crank looks DIYd. A roll pin is in the screw shaft. Previous owners would stick a very small Allen wrench in the roll pin and then put the hand crank into the slot around the screw drive bolt and crank against the Allen wrench. It goes up and down this way, but it’s tricky and the Allen wrench bends or pops out. I want to replace the crank system with something proper but not sure which.
My camper went up fine but now it will not come down. It is a 1999 Colman SantaFe can you please let me know how to get this down and will I be able to put it back up.
This could be a number of issues. Checking the drive hub and the wiffle tree would be where I start. If your stuck please give me a call at the shop! 1-800-424-CAMP
I have a 95 rio grande what would i have. Im new to this and i was lifting the roof and something snapped and the piece is loose and wont go down or up. Im freaking out😦😦😦
Thank you for this video and all your videos - we are big fans of the info AND the chalk art (will be adding one of those decals when you have the rubber gasket/seal back in stock!) We somehow had a pin dislodge from our (1996 Destiny series Santa Fe) thrust nut on a trip home, the one that was connecting the whiffle tree. We managed to put it back in 75% of the way, just to get it functioning again but have a question: is it meant to be placed flush? We assume yes as we can't see a second pin sticking out (or at all though, it's dark and greasy/grimy down there so a second pin may be in there) but in your video at 11:57, you mention it's "the application for the 2-hole thrust nut" suggesting there could be another application? Is there, another version of this with more or fewer pins than 2? And could you confirm, that the pin should be flush?! Thanks!
Hello Nicole and thanks for all the kind words! For pins in the whiffle tree, yes they should be fully through to both sides. The locations on whiffle trees are the 1 hole thrust nut and 12 tooth gear on chain drive systems, two hole thrust nuts on direct drive systems, and of course the drawbar stops. The stops typically do not have issues since you should never have to remove or move them.
Another great video sir! Very informative... I'm new to the pop up world and have a question. I have 2000 grand tour Westlake, is it ok to crank it partially open then close it back down or do i need it fully open before closing it?
@@popupcamperpro Ok i have another question. I have a 2005 Tucson brand trailer tent (3943 series). The roof no longer rises. I tried to unscrew the bolt which is at the bottom of the tube allowing the roof to be raised but the bolt has "stripped". Do I have to cut the outline of the tube to access the shaft (the threads of which are probably broken) and then replace these pieces? (Direct Drive Crank Rebuild Kit OR complete part number 4759A6311). Merci encore.
@@Arthurteste You typically do not have to cut anything, unless you cannot free a slotted 5/8 nut. Before a slice and dice, please give us a call at the shop for more assistance.
Will you do a companion video on the different power lift systems. :) Our 1996 Niagara has the (early) hydraulic system, quite different from the manual lift systems, and the later electric power lift systems, with the ram running side to side on the trailer. The cables and lift arms are the same. The safety catch (gate latch) on ours wasn't fully releasing on our last trip, and I had to get underneath and release it by hand. I suspect lubing the release cable again may solve the problem.
@@popupcamperpro Issues I have had. When purchased a Previous Owner had lost the knob on the valve and was using pliers to operate it. :( Fortunately, I was able to clean up the threads and fit a new knob. This is down to PO user error, not realizing that once the valve has opened or closed, there is no need to keep turning it till it is jammed hard against the end of the threads, like you would with a water faucet. There was a member here last spring, with the same pump, that was looking for a new valve because his PO had turned it so tight that the shaft had sheared off flush with the valve body. Another operating issue to cover is the safety latch (gate latch, I love this re-purposing, simple, cheap, and effective. :) ). For lowering, the release knob needs to be pushed in before turning the bypass valve, so there is no strain on the latch. If this step is forgotten, it happens, put the roof all the way up, release the latch before lowering again. And if the latch still isn't fully releasing, you can go underneath on the road side, and actuate by hand, (do only with the roof all the way up, so the system isn't under stress. Ron
I have a NTM. 1994 four seasons Yosemite with a hydraulic lift. Is there a manual crank override? I have to lift the roof at the access door to get it open, in order to access panel inside. Single female, can't lift manually by myself pushing up roof. Access door/step can't open otherwise. Help! Previous owner just got two people to push up on roof corner. 😒
@@debratweed3464 No, there isn't a manual option on the hydraulic lift system. Our 96 Niagara has an access door on the outside for the lift controls, so I haven't had that problem. Also, our stepper door has sagged, so it opens with the roof down. I would try putting a strip of wood on top of the rail, either side of the door, so that the roof couldn't come down quite so far and trap the stepper door.
We have a 1997 Coleman Fleetwood seapine. On you video it seems you skipped past those years. Ours seems like a 99 but it is not exactly easy to crank. Have lubed but probably just ok. Think I might have 18teeth. Any thoughts. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video!! I brought home a 1985 Coleman pop up a couple of weeks ago and after popping it up at home I couldn't get it to come down again! This video helped me understand the mechanics hidden behind the casing and which way my butterfly key should be in order to release the lift system. Just in time before a pending storm!!
Thanks again
Shona
NSW
AUSTRALIA
I love hearing experiences like yours! Thanks for watching and sharing!
What an amazingly detailed video!!! Nice work and thank you so much. I know repairs are coming on my ‘06 Utah.
Thank you Kyle! Glad you enjoyed it!
Top was not staying up. Was shown to over crank to reset it. It worked and stayed but when I lowered it back down there was loud clank noises. Now when I crank it to go up it is good for a few turns then super loud clank noise from bottom. Any ideas? 2005 Colman
Probably the drawbar hammering after release from the torque of the overcrank.
We impulse bought a Coleman Destiny that appears to be a 1993. I think the crank assembly has been DIY modified, and I’m still not sure what it originally was built as. Currently, the screw drive shaft extends to just behind the bumper. There is a lock/unlock bracket that pulls out and in but serves no purpose. The hand crank looks DIYd. A roll pin is in the screw shaft. Previous owners would stick a very small Allen wrench in the roll pin and then put the hand crank into the slot around the screw drive bolt and crank against the Allen wrench. It goes up and down this way, but it’s tricky and the Allen wrench bends or pops out. I want to replace the crank system with something proper but not sure which.
We can help Carrie! Please take some pics of what you’ve got, along with the model name and contact us at colemanpopupparts.com
I have a question about my 95 Coleman pop-up left system
We can help! Please give us a call at 1-800-424-CAMP
My camper went up fine but now it will not come down. It is a 1999 Colman SantaFe can you please let me know how to get this down and will I be able to put it back up.
This could be a number of issues. Checking the drive hub and the wiffle tree would be where I start. If your stuck please give me a call at the shop! 1-800-424-CAMP
I have a 95 rio grande what would i have. Im new to this and i was lifting the roof and something snapped and the piece is loose and wont go down or up. Im freaking out😦😦😦
Everything is repairable Jerry! If you need assistance please give us a call at colemanpopupparts.com
Thank you for this video and all your videos - we are big fans of the info AND the chalk art (will be adding one of those decals when you have the rubber gasket/seal back in stock!) We somehow had a pin dislodge from our (1996 Destiny series Santa Fe) thrust nut on a trip home, the one that was connecting the whiffle tree. We managed to put it back in 75% of the way, just to get it functioning again but have a question: is it meant to be placed flush? We assume yes as we can't see a second pin sticking out (or at all though, it's dark and greasy/grimy down there so a second pin may be in there) but in your video at 11:57, you mention it's "the application for the 2-hole thrust nut" suggesting there could be another application? Is there, another version of this with more or fewer pins than 2? And could you confirm, that the pin should be flush?! Thanks!
Hello Nicole and thanks for all the kind words! For pins in the whiffle tree, yes they should be fully through to both sides. The locations on whiffle trees are the 1 hole thrust nut and 12 tooth gear on chain drive systems, two hole thrust nuts on direct drive systems, and of course the drawbar stops. The stops typically do not have issues since you should never have to remove or move them.
We have a 2002 Coleman Santa Fe, cranking is hard and seems to skip while raising the top.
Where should I start to deal with this problem.
Thanks
Start with the DIY lift system maintenance video Claude.
@@popupcamperpro Thank you.
Thanks for the video! Do you know what crank system a 2002 Fleetwood taos is? Having a hard time fixing mine
Sure do! Part number 4759-6311. Thanks Lily!
What is the 1992 coleman destiny drive assembly
Please give us a call with your model name for assistance!
Coleman destiny royale
Another great video sir! Very informative... I'm new to the pop up world and have a question. I have 2000 grand tour Westlake, is it ok to crank it partially open then close it back down or do i need it fully open before closing it?
Yes, absolutely! You can stop and lower at any point with a Coleman or Fleetwood pop up camper.
I have a coleman 2001 sea pine. Which one goes with it 🤔
Hello Uzma! Please give us a call at the shop to help you choose the correct lift system component for your camper. 1-800-424-CMPA
I need to change the crank system on my fleetwood Tucson 2005. What is the code of these crank system?
You may not need a complete system. Please give us a call at the shop for assistance.
@@popupcamperpro Ok i have another question. I have a 2005 Tucson brand trailer tent (3943 series). The roof no longer rises. I tried to unscrew the bolt which is at the bottom of the tube allowing the roof to be raised but the bolt has "stripped". Do I have to cut the outline of the tube to access the shaft (the threads of which are probably broken) and then replace these pieces? (Direct Drive Crank Rebuild Kit OR complete part number 4759A6311). Merci encore.
@@Arthurteste You typically do not have to cut anything, unless you cannot free a slotted 5/8 nut. Before a slice and dice, please give us a call at the shop for more assistance.
Will you do a companion video on the different power lift systems. :)
Our 1996 Niagara has the (early) hydraulic system, quite different from the manual lift systems, and the later electric power lift systems, with the ram running side to side on the trailer. The cables and lift arms are the same.
The safety catch (gate latch) on ours wasn't fully releasing on our last trip, and I had to get underneath and release it by hand. I suspect lubing the release cable again may solve the problem.
It’s in the works! I have some new old stock surprises of early power lift systems to share.
@@popupcamperpro
Issues I have had.
When purchased a Previous Owner had lost the knob on the valve and was using pliers to operate it. :(
Fortunately, I was able to clean up the threads and fit a new knob.
This is down to PO user error, not realizing that once the valve has opened or closed, there is no need to keep turning it till it is jammed hard against the end of the threads, like you would with a water faucet. There was a member here last spring, with the same pump, that was looking for a new valve because his PO had turned it so tight that the shaft had sheared off flush with the valve body.
Another operating issue to cover is the safety latch (gate latch, I love this re-purposing, simple, cheap, and effective. :) ). For lowering, the release knob needs to be pushed in before turning the bypass valve, so there is no strain on the latch. If this step is forgotten, it happens, put the roof all the way up, release the latch before lowering again.
And if the latch still isn't fully releasing, you can go underneath on the road side, and actuate by hand, (do only with the roof all the way up, so the system isn't under stress.
Ron
I have a NTM. 1994 four seasons Yosemite with a hydraulic lift. Is there a manual crank override? I have to lift the roof at the access door to get it open, in order to access panel inside. Single female, can't lift manually by myself pushing up roof. Access door/step can't open otherwise.
Help!
Previous owner just got two people to push up on roof corner. 😒
@@debratweed3464 No, there isn't a manual option on the hydraulic lift system. Our 96 Niagara has an access door on the outside for the lift controls, so I haven't had that problem.
Also, our stepper door has sagged, so it opens with the roof down.
I would try putting a strip of wood on top of the rail, either side of the door, so that the roof couldn't come down quite so far and trap the stepper door.
@@333rpd great idea! Thank you!
We have a 1997 Coleman Fleetwood seapine. On you video it seems you skipped past those years. Ours seems like a 99 but it is not exactly easy to crank. Have lubed but probably just ok. Think I might have 18teeth. Any thoughts. Thanks
Hello Rex! Most hard to raise issues are related to the thrust bearing. You may need a replacement.
@@popupcamperpro thanks , is there a video and do you sell the part?
Yes and yes! Please take a look at colemanpopupparts.com, and search thrust bearing. You can find relevant video links at the product page easily.
@@popupcamperpro is there a specific video on replacing this bearing itself?
@@popupcamperpro ordered part. think i can do it
What does my 2006 Niagara have?
Mark, your camper calls for the 5111 weld on crank assembly.
colemanpopupparts.com/products/crank-assembly-6?_pos=1&_sid=834e3edd5&_ss=r