I used Kool Seal roof coating on metal roofs on mobile homes in Florida for years and never had a problem. The old silver coating and the white coating too.
@@EleyMartinez This was years ago, I'm retired now, but the silver cool-seal coated the seams of the roof and the edges where it was screwed on. Worked great to stop any leaks. Years later cool-seal came out with the white. Coated the entire roof, not just the seams. Made the roof look great and helped keep the mobile home cooler because it reflected a lot of the heat off the roof. Foy could actually place your hand on the surface of the roof on the hottest day. On a silver roof it would blister your hand. I was sold on it.
Multiple issues here. 1) Never mentions how old the acrylic roof is. Acrylic coatings tend to lose 1-2 mils of thickness per year due to weathering which is why most manufacturers offering 10 years or more for warranty purposes require at least 2 coats. Better products with higher acrylic solids perform better and offer more flexibility and this coating from visual observations doesn't appear to have had such high solid concentrations. This roof appears to be at least 15 years old or more given how brittle the coating was, but he doesn't mention the age of the coating once. 2) Obvious to anyone who has been on hundreds of metal roofs that were coated with either acrylic or silicone, this roof was prepared poorly for the coating application. As with any paint or coating, preparation is everything if you want it to stick. He scrapes and wire brushes the metal roof and never bothers to clean the dust off or wipe the area he is working on before applying the product. So now a majority of his wonderful repair and product is adhered to dust on the metal panel area from wire brushing. 3) Metal roofs tend to have a lot of expansion and contraction, so as the original coating becomes more brittle there will obviously be cracks and fissures forming on the coating surface. 4) He runs panhead fasteners into the pan of the panel, not the best place for fasteners without an EPDM grommet on the fastener. Given the force he applied while driving the fasteners, my guess would be all the fasteners he installed were overdriven and will eventually begin to back out due to expansion, contraction and being overdriven. 5) He has applied his product which is relatively thick and has basically created a coating seam that is bucking water on the uphill side of the repair. Constant rains will eventually work its way under the repair given the area was prepared so poorly over time creating the same issues he is highlighting. 6) Did he bother to check if the rusted fasteners utilized were even compatible with the metal panel. Often times, contractors fail to realize some fasteners they use during repairs are not compatible with certain metals and this accelerates rusting issues between the fastener and the panel. The entire thought process that coatings are bad for metal roofs when in fact you are applying a coating yourself is ridiculous at best. As someone who has served as expert witness in multiple litigation cases on issues revolving around roof system installations, I can state I have seen extremely good coating applications and have in fact represented some in court that were not so good. A majority of the issues revolved around poor preparation with maybe 1-2% of my investigations involving around issues with the product itself. With any coatings, choosing the right coating and thorough preparation of the substrate either provides a long term solution or a short term nightmare. Bottom line, do your homework and understand the most expensive coating isn't always the best. All in all, if this was meant as a positive promotion for their product, it was done poorly at best.
This is 100% correct!!! I've done thousands of squares in my time and proper prep work is a MUST!!! ANY type of coating will fail, if not done properly. I've never heard of anyone ever using pan head screws before. Is that even "acceptable"?
I am not a roofing tradesman but have done successful repairs to my roof . I would think that this a galvanised iron roof then any screws used should be galvanised to prevent galvanic corrosion. From the video the pan screws used 6:32 did not look like galvanised screws. He should have clarified that. Furthermore I agree roofing grommets must be used.
i was a union sandblaster/steel painter for 15 years and went to decorator after, i have worked in protective coatings at LTV steel, US steel, Inland steel, bethlehem steel, intech steel, and have relined huge steel storage tanks in tank farms all over the south and west of lake michigan. i retired to the philippines and built a house beside the ocean with my own 2 hands that was designed by me as well. my roof is corrugated steel, the 'wavy stuff' its rather thick and i had it trucked in from some distance. it's screwed onto 3/4 inch plywood resting on 2x6 'philippine mahogany' rafters every 4 ft on center with 2x2s as purlins (nailers) every 4 ft (but they are flush so not really perlins). I cleaned the sheet metal off with rags and MEK to remove any oily areas or dirt and primed it with 2 coats of iron oxide(both sides) before installing it.. after it was all screwed down i touched up any small scratches and screw heads then used white industrial enamel oil paint, 3 thin coats on that. that was in 2017, in 2023 i washed it down with soap and water and rinsed it well then hand sanded a few spots that looked like they may need it and recoated it with 2 more thin coats of white oil enamel. it still looks great and it has lowered the temperature in the house by reflecting the hot sun dramatically, you can touch any bare metal here at noon and it will burn your fingers. my roof feels like 65-70 degrees at noon. i have had zero rust(even beside the ocean) and zero coating failure and zero leaks. the temp here never varies too much staying between 65-95 degrees F so the expansion and contraction is not a problem , (and even less of a problem after painting since it stays between 65-75 degrees now! ). anything can be painted if you know what you're doing and use the correct materials. edit - i used galvanized screws with little rubber gaskets under the heads (dont over tighten and smash the gasket!)
The comments and suggestions have been very helpful. We have a 60 year old original metal roof that has been painted, sealed and patched many times over the years, and is still holding up and looking great. I’m not an expert but what I’m concluding is that it might be a good idea to do a coating or painting at some point. Keep trees away from the house. Keep debris, dirt and moss off the roof. If painting or coating, treat the rusted areas properly. I also see it important to determine if the product will adhere properly to your roof, and is appropriate for your climate, and to plan well ahead of time to determine what time of year would be best to do roof work. Fortunately we live in probably the mildest climate anywhere, but our roof has still needed maintenance to last this long.
Liquid application on Metal Roofs are actually a great option . This coating problem he is talking about us a combination of cheap coating ,bad surface prep and poor application .
Partly true. But always will "Bad Prep" be blamed for failure. There is always room for error, therefore there are always coatings that fail. The above points leave the scapegoat out because that will always be the case that someone did something wrong.
In my experience we’ve had great success when using a 100% silicone coating like from gaco, but it’s expensive about $400 per 5 gallons.. we’ve never had a problem if prep was done correctly and to proper thickness for application, but I’m also in Florida and we don’t experience the extreme cold weather that you have, I could see that as a problem.
@@angryhands9564 I agree, silicone coating is good. But it is seldom that people go back after several years to check how it is going or that they get a call from the owner. Almost never
I've applied millions of sq ft of roof coatings, silicone, acrylic, urethane. All have served us very well and lasted very well. The most problems come from silicone as on average 1-2% of the surface area tends to peel. But expect it, find it, then fix it. Problem solved. As with any roof product on the market, they all have their issues. And the only time I've had blisters like in this video from an acrylic were from bird droppings on the roof. Clean the roof multiple times if you have to. In some areas the pigeons can be a problem if there's a roosting spot over the roof. We did a ballpark in 2014 where pigeons roosted on the park lights. We cleaned it with cleaner multiple times and just before we sprayed it with the top coat. It still blistered and just in that spot. The only spot with bird droppings. The acid can be very hard to clean off. All that said, if installed correctly to the right mil thickness, coatings are a great option for many roofs. Any roofer knows they've seen good and bad of all roof types.
Not a fan of elastomerics but for some roofs that don't really need to extend their service life i guess it is an OK fix. Our roofing company has used pretty much everything out there over the last 25 years. We use only one products after 8 years of success and not callbacks. There is a Liquid butyl rubber made by epdmcoatings. What we like about it is that it does not need a primer for any of the roof types we have applied it over that goes for metal, BUR, epdm, foam but NOT silicone. also it is a one coat application so we close much more business with this product because we come in as the lowest bid! It is a solvent product so primarily the reason it last all the years. Cheers
I want to paint our poll building roof it has some black on the top. Other than that it’s in good shape I’m wondering do I just pressure wash the black and hope it comes off and then just paint over it
I'm sorry but you don't know half of what you're talking about. The roof is rusted and cracked because the acrylic coating was never reapplied to spec and/or the roof wasn't prepped/coated properly. No coating will last forever and has to be reapplied/maintained on a regular basis. This is the guy that shows up to your job and tries to sell you a new roof for twice the cost. A roof restoration, done properly and maintained properly, will have none of the issues he shows
I dunno mate. The expand/contract cold/heat has dragged the coating at the base of the valley away from the corner where it starts rising to a ridge. A lot of pressure there and an unfavourable angle for the coating to resist getting pulled away from the iron - I can see how this could happen no matter how good the prep. I suspect corrugated iron would not have this issue.
I was in the metal roofing business for 35 years, and while I do not think this man has any experience with metal roofing (uses pan head screws from Lowe's) he has a valid point, which is: Unless you are a professional painter, well versed in rusty metal surface preparation, and the equipment to do the job, do not use coatings. I was also a Porter Paint (now PPG) dealer, and wanted to paint my rusty barn roof white. I followed Porter Paint recommendations step by step, including an acid wash to neutralize the rust. The coating looked great for several years, until a hailstorm, then the paint was laying on the ground below the eaves of the barn, and I had a rusty roof again. If you need to paint a rusty metal roof, I suggest you begin with a high quality asphalt roof coating. Stirring it well, and using a knob brush. Brushing makes the aluminum pigment leaf up better. Apply in warm weather. In 2 - 3 years, or when the coating begins to lose its shine, paint the roof again using a high quality liquid aluminum paint. This combination will last for 10 to 15 years. If you have screws that are loose, go to a metal roofing store and get #12 or #14 screws with neoprene washers to replace.
I am from Chennai, India. You really saved me. I was about to buy the "So-called metal roof heat insulation coating". I might have ended with the rusty roof!
This guy is wrong! Coatings are a great option, just NOT fabric based systems. The one he's on is a fabric based system. Great options that will NOT do what he's posting out are ER Systems and FAR coatings. Both are liquid-based only. No fabric. Coatings can protect your aging metal and make a roof seamless. Any repair the "flat roof doctor" makes without protecting it from the UV rays won't last 2 years.
@@WestTNReb that isn't fabric... that is acrylic, which dries like rubbery plastic and when it fails becomes like thousands of little rubbery pockets to hold water.
Elastomeric paint it not meant to stand alone. After 2 coats of this 2 more coats of silicone rubber will keep it from doing this. You can't just use elastomeric paint by itself.
That seal will last 3 years tops, if that. Not to mention it was applied over an apparent wet and very cold surface which means adhesion is minimum. This will dry, crack and peel very fast. Also, the black color will take a beating from UV rays that will further accelerate deterioration. I'd love to see the state of this patch currently as this video is now 3 years old.
At 10:45 you say, "acrylic, all silicon coatings I don't think works" & then repair with Turbo Poly Seal, but list Super Silicon Seal as your best advise in your Summary text - which of the two products do you prefer?
I have tested both and have used both products extensively. Super Silicone Seal is more fluid and will cause runs easily if the roof is slanted making it harder for a clean job whereas Turbo Poly Seal is leas liquidy. Turbo Poly Seal gives you less linear feet per gallon. I really can't say which one is better. f you use Super Silicone Seal with the fleece in harsh Florida sun will last longer and you don't need to protect it against UV's.Turbo Poly Seal is nice for difficult areas and vertical surfaces as in flashing. Turbo Poly Seal is also much tougher. Honestly, I really don't know which one is better. Thanks for your comment. You are a good observer.
In actuality, the problem is way more complex than what he's making it sound. It could have been a cheap coating. It could have been poor Surface Prep. We have no idea how old the coating was in the first place. It's very important to recoat your roof when it's necessary, not when you have leaks. It's also important to use a rust inhibiting primer underneath your top coat and seal off your Fasteners with caulk. His logic is very over simplified.
It's called washing very well and priming all your bolts and edges then coming through and spraying it correctly alot of painters don't know the proper way to spray always spray your corners and edges first similar to cutting in maybe 3 panels then come back and spray your face surface I've sprayed many metal roofs and never got a call back it's all about taking your time and taking pride for your customers
Sure, we all point to prepping a job, I have yet to see a roof that was prepped 100% correct. The scapegoat to all failing coatings is the prep work, lol
Jetcoat and Henry Extreme sprayed on with a Graco Pro in three layers would work just fine in MOST applications. White is not very reflective compared to dedicated reflective coatings folks. Use your resources folks. NOT angry contractors fixing crappy jobs after the fact. Bad prep is the key of this video along with climate and weather in regions
I have been coating roofs for 21 years and I agree with everything you have said . What I like to do is use Polly seal and then coat with asphalt aluminum ,just because asphalt aluminum makes it look nice and you can't see all of the patches and because it is a very thin coating ,asphalt based coating it wears away and doesn't peal but it must be non fiber . Any silicone, acrylic or elastomeric I have ever used has failed horribly within 5 years and would have been better off to not do at all. Also asphalt aluminum does great on rusty areas ,I have coated roofs that have been on over 18 years it doesn't stop leaks but it wasn't designed for that but it makes a nice top coat.
@@seaseeker3499 no roof coating is supposed to stop leaks , they are to protect the roof from uv rays. You have to fix the leaks before using any coating
Acrylic coatings are great for metal roofs. Like you mentioned in your videos, it's all about preparation. They obviously didn't prep this one. In California some contractors use a seam tape that has a peel and stick backing and polyester surface. Once that's installed over seams and voids we apply acrylic gel and then after it's cured we apply lMetacrylics coating. That particular Astec didn't fare too well in Ca. Too much ceramic in the formula and lots of what you see there. I enjoy your videos 👍🏽. Keep them coming.
Preparation is essential and proper application is important. However, using an acrylic elastomeric that doesn't lose key characteristics, like essential flexibility (elongation), is key to a superior roof coating. Most roof coatings on the market will use inexpensive plasticizers (for flexibility), which leech out, and cause eventual cracking and/or flaking. Same thing happens with asphaltic based products (i..e aluminum asphalt), as their oils will leech out of their coating. Acrymax's acrylic elastomeric won't lose their flexibility as it is built into the backbone of the very polymer (of their resin). This allows Acrymax coated roofs to have their life extended almost indefinitely with simple periodic recoats (at 5, 10, 15, or even 20 year intervals). Recoats simply maintain mil thickness. The thicker, the more robust, the longer before a recoat. See this video link, highlighting a college's roofs, done with Acrymax nearly 40 years ago and still going strong today: ruclips.net/video/Q2m8rHBIUVg/видео.html
So what do you suggest to coat a metal roof? I don't have a leak but my metal roof is in need of a coating in general and I typically hire someone to do it and they put on a Kool Coat in double layers.
This is just an example of a bad job. My grandfather, my Dad and I have a combined experience of over 80 years of roofing. We have seen acrylic coated coated metal last for 20 years without a recoat. On the other hand, we have seen them fail just after 4 years on some bad jobs. This video is not a good representation of an acrylic coated metal. Just bad coating or bad preperation.
Hi, I’ve been reading the comments and have a question. I just built an Arrow metal shed in my backyard and I want to waterproof the metal....some parts already have some small rust parts😡 I don’t want to paint it, what clear coating could I spray over it to weatherproof it? I live in South Texas where it’s ALWAYS humid so any recommendations would be appreciated.
1. A combined experience doesn't mean a thing. Technologies change rapidly all the time. My son who was with me for 8 years has his own roofing business and is already is in other types of roofing applications. I stuck with Torch Down which I still believe is superior to any other roofing system. 2. Acrylic coatings are water-based paints. There is no latex or acrylic coating that can last 20 years on a vertical wall without being compromised. On a metal roof that gets super hot, it has less of a chance. Then all these paints shrink. As seen in the video. It is almost impossible to prepare the surface of the metal roof in such a way that it would be free from crut and dust. I have seen the same thing over and over again and every coating I saw was applied by so-called "specialist" in roof coatings. They all have failed. Now I really appreciate your comment, because there is some truth to what you said. Standards and quality have dropped. Maybe there are products that are designed to withstand the elements. But as you said, bad products and bad preparation make for an expensive job. Thanks, buckethead151 you are a good man
@@FlatRoofDoctor Combined experience means we have seen a wide range of products and applications. It means we know what we are doing and how to do it right. We install Foam Roofing with either acrylic or silicone coating. It may not be superior in durability but it offers insulation unmatched by any other roofing system. We have seen tourch down systems that have failed due to improper installation just as you are showing in your video. Its up to the installer to make a roofing system work correctly. Thanks for your reply and your passion for a good roofing system. I'm sure you do a great job!
Exactly. I pressure washed, primer, flashing coat, and finish coated 13 storage unit buildings with Mule Hide acrylic coating. No bubbles or peeling...lasted 20 years.
@@HomeSteadingHomeVideo is there a difference between elastomeric and aluminum coating? i bought a hosue with a metal roof and since this costs alot i want to put the right shit on. i got 2 quotes and both were for aluminum.
Our 30 year old ministorage has 30k sq ft of 29ga galv or galvalum on 5 of 6 buildings. Similar product as your video but never painted. Purlins are 1x3 wood spaced too wide at 36"-42" on factory wood trusses 3/12 slope. Concrete block sidewalls. New gutters and downspouts. In our 3 years have learned that NOBODY goes on the roof except a personally trained worker. Fortunately we identified dents which allowed gaps in the overlap seams (from 30 years of untrained roof-walkers) and have sucked them together with rubber-grommeted screws on top of the metal profiles. Replaced probably 25% of the suspect screws with larger diameter (75% yet to go) Appears leak problems are NOT accelerating, original fastenings mostly without rust stain (thanks to galvalum corrosion protection & rubber isolation washers). We've made significant gains against the very few customer complaints of water. Was a risky investment! BUT the facility is below road-level such that the roofs present a poor image of our business and brand. Multicolor stains over white oxidized alum as you would expect. Unthinking, I thot to paint to achieve unform color, prhps white for heat control. But I know it will get dirty. THANKS for the headsup about coating. But what shall I do for COSMETIC? And how to invest in a long-life impermeable roof? I'm thinking to add z-metal purlins on top of existing roof, one above each 1x3, plus one between, then a new powder coated roof over top. This way 190 tenants aren't exposed during the project. And prhps we insulate the space between old and new roof. How can I reach you as a consultant?
Panheads without a silicone or rubber washer? Fleece? I didnt see an acual break in metal. Preperation is always key! Sealing properly, the coatings is essentially necessary! Its up to the owner whether he wants to spent big money or go cheaper. Details prepping all fastners, screws, etc. from what i saw, improper prep work was performed. Bad robots!
Interesting topic. I plan to paint my roof with a white acrylic paint like that. There is a difference though. I see that you had ice underneath the paint. My house is in the tropics where I NEVER have ice formation. I think the melting and freezing of ice (which causes expansion) is a major cause for the paint to be pulled off the roof. Even if it would affect the durability of my roof, it's probably worth it painting my roof, because of the aircon energy I can save from painting it white. I do have a lot of expansion and contraction from the hot sun, but perhaps the white paint can help to reduce that expansion a bit.
The main purpose of those white color roof coatings is to reflect the solar heat. Without the coating, the roof would get unbearably hot, and heat up the space beneath. I'm glad that you show this problem, but not painting is not a good solution either. There should be a better solution.
yes, you are correct. but people sell the idea that coatings will stop leaks. To reflect the sun to reduce heat one should use Aluminum Asphalt Paint. That is the best reflector. Using coatings like acrylic and Silicone is not as good as Aluminum Asphalt.
@@FlatRoofDoctor SRI is the determining factor. Higher the SRI, more it can reflect solar heat. But as you point out in this video, one should also make sure to select proper coatings/techniques to prevent rusting issues. I wasn't aware of that issue before.
Roof Doctor, I have an older metal roof that has begun to leak. It was put on with roofing nails. The gaskets are old and some of the nails have begun to back out. How would you suggest I repair it. Replace all the nails with larger screws or..? And seal the seams?
Removal will take months. Don't know, but seems like individual blobs of, say, exterior silicone over each fastener would seal the fastener from rust but also allow any water to pass over or by the individual fasteners.
im new to metal roofs just bought a house with one and its a bit rusty. i dont have regular paint on it only the silver metal. what your talking about is someone painting the roof a color right? your not talking about elastic or fibered aluminum coating right? because i have some surface rust and im almost positive i need it brushed off and recoated with one of the 2. this house is 100 yrs old
Protect it with zinc paint not aluminium/asphalt. Zinc chemically protects the steel from rusting. Then top coat to protect from UV. Could use Aluminium asphalt on top.
@@davidstobie5373 all this makes my head want to explode lol. trying to find contractors has been ridiculous. and my quotes are anywhere from 1000 to 14k. between trying to find what coating to use and whats a good price im going insane
Hi there, thais for the good video. I have here a 60,000 water tank with rusty big patches inside of it, and I saw today little drops coming from the outside. Help, how to patch this up? Could I use your technic, I also have been thinking of cement with water proofer but then I have to do the whole tank, it looked like a cold long day on that roof. Greetings from southern Spain.
I'm getting a snap-lock standing seam metal roof installed on my house. Would recommend that I get bare (unpainted & without acrylic coating) AZ55 Galvalume steel panels, instead of the more common acrylic coated or painted steel panels?
Roof was not cleaned properly before wrong acrylic coating was installed. Should have used silicone. Best to fill flutes and install a TPO membrane roof using the Rino Bond method of attachment.
It depends too on who installs it. I worked for one roofing company that had put put on the coating that needed 16 hours minimum dry weather and we slapped in on 2 hours before the rain came.
Great information on metal roofing. I have a question and would greatly like your professional opinion. What do you recommend for a metal roof that has some surface rust that is not deep, but needs to be coated with something? Thank you very much!
Aluminum Asphalt coating I think is the best. Just lightly brush of the rust, not necessary to take it all of, then paint it with this. Karnak makes the best Asphalt coating.
. I agree. Once coated, an elastomeric coating would work, but I do not like covering rust with any water-based coating until remedial steps are taken. Ospho is a good rust stabilizer to use first, but asphalt gets the job done.
I have a Galvalume roof and would never just slap an elastomeric coating on it without surface prep. I would first spray it with a bleach solution to kill mold and bacteria, rinse, and then make a dop stick by stuffing an old athletic sock inside another one and zip-tying it to the end of a screw-type wooden rake replacement handle. I would get a gallon of Ospho rust converter and saturate the dop stick and dop each screw, twisting the stick to get thorough coverage. I also would seek out any rust (generally not a problem unless you let the roof go way too long before taking action). I would then use aluminized fibered roof coating to cover each screw and seam before applying elastomeric coating. I would then wait several days until the coating had cured and then apply two coats of elastomeric coating, letting the first coat dry thoroughly.
Great video..one question, on an R-panel roof if it looks somewhat bend in or stepped on hard..like someone stepped on it very hard and now it looks like bend downwards and to the sides where it was stepped on....will this case the R-panel to leak?
@@marieshawn8590 don't buy any type of acrylic , silicone or elastomeric coating. They ALL will crack in a few years , trap water and rot your roof away. Take it from me who had to spend over $5,000 on a new roof.
I have a question. I have a very nice mobile home. I have a metal roof. Every time it rains or the wind blows I have this grey matter that lands on my deck. To me, it looks like grey silver sealant or something. Any idea what I would replace it with?
Sooooo what do you to do a metal roof that's coating has worn off over time then? You can't just leave it uncoated or cover the entire roof with that poly seal stuff.
My question as well. Our metal roof is 60 years old, believe it or not. It has been painted, sealed, patched, etc. many times over the years, with all kinds of material, who knows of what kind. Fortunately rust has not been much of a problem. There has been few leaks, mainly along ridge lines, but these have not been difficult to fix, and the roof actually still looks great. I dread the prospect of having to replace the roof, so will continue to coat or paint as often as possible. I intend to do this by myself, as much as I find it exhausting to do. But we’ve hired a few passers by to coat the roof in the past, and upon recent close inspection, I can see problems in the making due to carelessness. I’m enjoying the many comments and suggestions, but it can be confusing. Anyway, from our own personal experience, a metal roof can last a long time if maintained with some kind of coating, beginning perhaps when the shine of the original paint starts to wear off. (We live in a very mild climate at 1200 ft, leeward side of Hawaii island. We have moderate rainfall, no wind, 60 to 80 degrees year round. Cloud cover is about 50% year round.)
man im trying to figure out the same thing. from what i find is you need a roof coating, not a roof paint. you need either fiber aluminum roof coating, or elastomeric coating. itll be silver. i do see some really nice metal roofs around me that are red that look flawless. so there has to be something out there. it seems if the metal isnt prepped right while its made then no coating of anything will survive on it
@@hippa2dahoppa2 Zinc based primer to protect steel roofing, and top coat after thorough preparation. Don't seal up overlaps. These should drain due to gravity..
I am not an expert on metal coatings. But, I suggest you research how to go about treating metal roofs where the galvanized or paint is starting to come off. What I am showing in this video is that spraying a latex coating over a metal roof will cause problems. The biggest problem are the seams. As soon as you coat over a seam, that will trap water eventually causing it to accumulate between the panels causing rust. Also we found that the coating was not adhering around every screw and water ended up penetrating that part of the coating causing the metal to rust around the screw. What we did was to remove the old coatings around the screw with an angle grinder and steel brush and dabbed the screw with Super Silicone Seal or Turbo Poly Seal. This works very good. The cleaning of each screw is critical. We also removed the screws on the seams, separated the seams, painted Turbo Poly Seal with fleece 4" up between the seams and also 4" below the seam. Then waited for this to dry and then screwed the panels back down unto the cured Turbo Poly Seal. So this would prevent any water that gets trapped between the seams to cause rust. Call me a "hack" but for $20,000 per 400 foot seam, saved the roof that would cost $400, 000 to replace.
I would have chemically treat the rust first to neutralize it. Grinding off thick rust and covering it up just looks good. The rust remains and grows again. IT is a band aid that looks good. The rust remains.
I will point out some facts. 1) Surface preparation is everything on any roof coating. a. Remove any loose rust with a wire wheel. b. Treat solid rust with an agent that chemically changes the rusted surface. c. Replace bad screws d.Pressure wash and THOROUGHLY DRY. Make sure pressure wash removes all loose material 2. Epoxy is best by acrylic will probably work if you follow surface prep. It is almost cheaper to replace than to properly coat depending upon surface preparation required and material choice.
It's why people use FLEX SEAL(WHITE) to seal the whole roof at least 3 full coatings. NOT little bit here and there because it will cause that problem. You must cover the whole roof. 3 coatings will do it and last for decades. It cost a little more and saves you big trouble if done right.
yes, true, but I think it his hard for anyone to do quality control on a huge project and therefor that would always become an issue. Prepping is the issue, then product, then application.
the man is right, Coatings are a bad idea. Do it right the first time. replace the metal roof with a new metal roof. Coatings are a temperary fix at best. The cost of replacing a "coated roof" is substanially higher then an untouched one. It's like kicking the can a few years down the road, the problem does not go away.
And when the paint over the fleece cracks, which is does over time, or is no longer water proof for whatever reason, the fleece serves as the ideal water absorbent material and creates a nice water pocket to assist with rusting the roofing. So this does not resolve the problem at all. Maybe for a year or two, until the roof coating becomes brittle, cracks and lets water through. Then it becomes the problem, instead of being the solution.
I have been coating roofs for 20 years . The best way to coat a roof is to, patch all nail heads with through the roof / geocel. And coat roof with asphalt aluminum non fibered . Asphalt aluminum wears off and never peels , all silicone and acrylic will eventually let lose over time and then you have a mess. Also asphalt alum is a rust inhibitive roof coating . This man knows what he is talking about
Hi I’m going to work on my mobile home roof. Any tips on what I can apply? I have 2 very small leaks. It’s an aluminum roof that’s never been treated with anything. Just has a few rust areas and I plan on grinding off the rust as well as cleaning up the roof. Would really appreciate any tips.. :)
@@evekelly3832 patch the leaky spots with something like gaco patch. Gaco coating is a great product, the company I work for sells alot of them. I've never had any problems. But honestly the best thing to do is repair the infected areas with new roofing panels. It's not a difficult process. But also if you mess it up you'll have more than 2 small leaks.
I use the top acrylic coating out there and I guarantee it’s a lot better product than the junk you just applied! When I get done coating a metal roof it’s more waterproof than the day it was installed.
You are correct, it is water tight for the 1st 2 years. After several years it becomes a nightmare. The acrylic dries out. Just see any exterior painted walls on houses. Thats why houses need to be painted every so many years. Imagine a roof that is in direct sunlight and hotter than any wall. Acrylic paint on a roof will fail. The truth is that most people can't get the original contractor back after several years. They disappear.
At 9.15 when you screw the sheets together and water comes out. Can this be due to condensation running down underneath the top sheet into the lap? Sealing the top surface of the joint keeps this water in. There is a reason why you should probably leave the lower edge of the lap joint open to drain. The alternative is to seal the top and the bottom of the overlap to keep the condensation out, making sure you use screws with washers to ensure the water tightness there as well.
I originally thought the same, that condensation is trapped one's I closed the seams. Come to find out that there is no condensation due to the insulation on the inside. If condensation was an issue, then all the seams would be leaking almost every day. So, I realized that the seams were so rusted because of the acrylic coating that trapped the water in, I then decided to clean every seam up and do a proper seal using Turbo Poly Seal and sometimes Super Silicone Seal
CI Roofing I Have to agree and Disagree with your opinion We have Sprayed over 700,000 sft so far in 2020 of Acrylic on Metal Roofs and don't have that issue At the end of the day its all about proper preparation and cleaning Theres is a lot of flyby night shady roofers out there So I feel you not being partial to the product that Hundreds of vendors sell the Acrylic The application you have applied is the basic Roof cement that I totally despise that makes by Coating look bad after it dries because it shows thru I respect your view But I still trust Acrylics if applied correct
I think they do work. I've had little problems using elastomeric. Whoever applied the coat on this job obviously applied it wrong.. I can see right through it. Here in New Mexico the roof will hit 130 140 degrees and black tar will last a few years before the heat eventually eats it. I've found white coatings work best on metal roofs.
Ok, both of you are correct. The point I was trying to make is that it is almost impossible to prepare a metal roof 100% before applying a coating. There will always be so dirt somewhere around screws, seams and in general that will prevent the coating from adhering. I also think white is better. What about Aluminum Asphalt to reflect the heat instead of a expensive Silicone or Elastomeric coating?
You welcome Jake - If metal roof owners only knew about coatings and not just listen to salespeople selling a product that would compromise the metal roof
What's the best way to clean a Mobile Home metal roof? I live in a co-op and they are pretty fussy on how things look around here. I was thinking about coating my roof, not anymore....thanks for the education!
You are right with that statement. I have been fixing this roof and have spent over 5 weeks and over $15 K on materials. Let's break it down. Materials - $15 k Labor - $30 k Charged the Customer $100 K To replace the entire roof would have cost $450 K So, when the cost of repairs is more than 20% of the replacement, I think then a replacement is better. The reason we did the repairs instead, is that we did not know the extent of the repair when we got started. It became more obvious almost halfway through. My rate for the repair is lower on this project because the owner and I were surprised at the extend of work to follow. So, I felt that I was at fault too, and eased on the cost.
i have 900mt of metal roof and that black thing with time sun burs it and it turs like dust,,i clean everything and use a 20 year warranty silicon coating and its 6 years now and in perfect condition
You are correct. In most of the videos where I use Turbo Poly Seal, I do tell people to use Silver Coat Protection. It is a tougher product than Silicone. But, I also use Super Silicone Seal in many places, for that reason
Excellent video!!! Would small pieces of fleece and poly seal be good for screws that are leaking? I have replaced the dumb grommet screws with new ones and it didn't solve the problem so I wondered about doing this on them. Thanks!!!!
ER300 hands down. I am totally against using silicone but a lot of people use it. Coat the entire roof with ER300 and there will not be any seams anymore.
I've been doing roofing since I was a child I'm 40 years old now and I have learned more in those years on flat roofs from you thank you and God bless you and your family
I'm good hoping to learn everything I can from you, if I ever have any questions about what I'm doing could I ask for your opinion, getting involved with some tpo and epdm stuff now. Always good to know people, thank you for your time man
Now you need to learn about marketing. Doing the work is the easy part, finding the jobs is hard. That is what I spend most of my time in is marketing. How do people find you?
I used Kool Seal roof coating on metal roofs on mobile homes in Florida for years and never had a problem. The old silver coating and the white coating too.
Do you use the Henry 887 tropical cool white silicone reflective roof coating on the metal roofs ?
@@EleyMartinez This was years ago, I'm retired now, but the silver cool-seal coated the seams of the roof and the edges where it was screwed on. Worked great to stop any leaks. Years later cool-seal came out with the white. Coated the entire roof, not just the seams. Made the roof look great and helped keep the mobile home cooler because it reflected a lot of the heat off the roof. Foy could actually place your hand on the surface of the roof on the hottest day. On a silver roof it would blister your hand. I was sold on it.
Multiple issues here. 1) Never mentions how old the acrylic roof is. Acrylic coatings tend to lose 1-2 mils of thickness per year due to weathering which is why most manufacturers offering 10 years or more for warranty purposes require at least 2 coats. Better products with higher acrylic solids perform better and offer more flexibility and this coating from visual observations doesn't appear to have had such high solid concentrations. This roof appears to be at least 15 years old or more given how brittle the coating was, but he doesn't mention the age of the coating once. 2) Obvious to anyone who has been on hundreds of metal roofs that were coated with either acrylic or silicone, this roof was prepared poorly for the coating application. As with any paint or coating, preparation is everything if you want it to stick. He scrapes and wire brushes the metal roof and never bothers to clean the dust off or wipe the area he is working on before applying the product. So now a majority of his wonderful repair and product is adhered to dust on the metal panel area from wire brushing. 3) Metal roofs tend to have a lot of expansion and contraction, so as the original coating becomes more brittle there will obviously be cracks and fissures forming on the coating surface. 4) He runs panhead fasteners into the pan of the panel, not the best place for fasteners without an EPDM grommet on the fastener. Given the force he applied while driving the fasteners, my guess would be all the fasteners he installed were overdriven and will eventually begin to back out due to expansion, contraction and being overdriven. 5) He has applied his product which is relatively thick and has basically created a coating seam that is bucking water on the uphill side of the repair. Constant rains will eventually work its way under the repair given the area was prepared so poorly over time creating the same issues he is highlighting. 6) Did he bother to check if the rusted fasteners utilized were even compatible with the metal panel. Often times, contractors fail to realize some fasteners they use during repairs are not compatible with certain metals and this accelerates rusting issues between the fastener and the panel. The entire thought process that coatings are bad for metal roofs when in fact you are applying a coating yourself is ridiculous at best. As someone who has served as expert witness in multiple litigation cases on issues revolving around roof system installations, I can state I have seen extremely good coating applications and have in fact represented some in court that were not so good. A majority of the issues revolved around poor preparation with maybe 1-2% of my investigations involving around issues with the product itself. With any coatings, choosing the right coating and thorough preparation of the substrate either provides a long term solution or a short term nightmare. Bottom line, do your homework and understand the most expensive coating isn't always the best. All in all, if this was meant as a positive promotion for their product, it was done poorly at best.
Well said. I agree 1000 percent.
This is 100% correct!!! I've done thousands of squares in my time and proper prep work is a MUST!!!
ANY type of coating will fail, if not done properly.
I've never heard of anyone ever using pan head screws before. Is that even "acceptable"?
PREACH IT BROTHA! AMEN!!!
I am not a roofing tradesman but have done successful repairs to my roof . I would think that this a galvanised iron roof then any screws used should be galvanised to prevent galvanic corrosion. From the video the pan screws used 6:32 did not look like galvanised screws. He should have clarified that. Furthermore I agree roofing grommets must be used.
i was a union sandblaster/steel painter for 15 years and went to decorator after, i have worked in protective coatings at LTV steel, US steel, Inland steel, bethlehem steel, intech steel, and have relined huge steel storage tanks in tank farms all over the south and west of lake michigan.
i retired to the philippines and built a house beside the ocean with my own 2 hands that was designed by me as well.
my roof is corrugated steel, the 'wavy stuff' its rather thick and i had it trucked in from some distance. it's screwed onto 3/4 inch plywood resting on 2x6 'philippine mahogany' rafters every 4 ft on center with 2x2s as purlins (nailers) every 4 ft (but they are flush so not really perlins).
I cleaned the sheet metal off with rags and MEK to remove any oily areas or dirt and primed it with 2 coats of iron oxide(both sides) before installing it.. after it was all screwed down i touched up any small scratches and screw heads then used white industrial enamel oil paint, 3 thin coats on that.
that was in 2017, in 2023 i washed it down with soap and water and rinsed it well then hand sanded a few spots that looked like they may need it and recoated it with 2 more thin coats of white oil enamel.
it still looks great and it has lowered the temperature in the house by reflecting the hot sun dramatically, you can touch any bare metal here at noon and it will burn your fingers. my roof feels like 65-70 degrees at noon. i have had zero rust(even beside the ocean) and zero coating failure and zero leaks.
the temp here never varies too much staying between 65-95 degrees F so the expansion and contraction is not a problem , (and even less of a problem after painting since it stays between 65-75 degrees now! ).
anything can be painted if you know what you're doing and use the correct materials.
edit - i used galvanized screws with little rubber gaskets under the heads (dont over tighten and smash the gasket!)
The comments and suggestions have been very helpful. We have a 60 year old original metal roof that has been painted, sealed and patched many times over the years, and is still holding up and looking great. I’m not an expert but what I’m concluding is that it might be a good idea to do a coating or painting at some point. Keep trees away from the house. Keep debris, dirt and moss off the roof. If painting or coating, treat the rusted areas properly. I also see it important to determine if the product will adhere properly to your roof, and is appropriate for your climate, and to plan well ahead of time to determine what time of year would be best to do roof work. Fortunately we live in probably the mildest climate anywhere, but our roof has still needed maintenance to last this long.
Liquid application on Metal Roofs are actually a great option . This coating problem he is talking about us a combination of cheap coating ,bad surface prep and poor application .
Partly true. But always will "Bad Prep" be blamed for failure. There is always room for error, therefore there are always coatings that fail. The above points leave the scapegoat out because that will always be the case that someone did something wrong.
In my experience we’ve had great success when using a 100% silicone coating like from gaco, but it’s expensive about $400 per 5 gallons.. we’ve never had a problem if prep was done correctly and to proper thickness for application, but I’m also in Florida and we don’t experience the extreme cold weather that you have, I could see that as a problem.
@@angryhands9564 I agree, silicone coating is good. But it is seldom that people go back after several years to check how it is going or that they get a call from the owner. Almost never
You are 100 % correct. This guys a shitty prepper
Is silicone roof coating good for tropical zone?
I've applied millions of sq ft of roof coatings, silicone, acrylic, urethane. All have served us very well and lasted very well. The most problems come from silicone as on average 1-2% of the surface area tends to peel. But expect it, find it, then fix it. Problem solved. As with any roof product on the market, they all have their issues. And the only time I've had blisters like in this video from an acrylic were from bird droppings on the roof. Clean the roof multiple times if you have to. In some areas the pigeons can be a problem if there's a roosting spot over the roof. We did a ballpark in 2014 where pigeons roosted on the park lights. We cleaned it with cleaner multiple times and just before we sprayed it with the top coat. It still blistered and just in that spot. The only spot with bird droppings. The acid can be very hard to clean off. All that said, if installed correctly to the right mil thickness, coatings are a great option for many roofs. Any roofer knows they've seen good and bad of all roof types.
Not a fan of elastomerics but for some roofs that don't really need to extend their service life i guess it is an OK fix. Our roofing company has used pretty much everything out there over the last 25 years. We use only one products after 8 years of success and not callbacks. There is a Liquid butyl rubber made by epdmcoatings. What we like about it is that it does not need a primer for any of the roof types we have applied it over that goes for metal, BUR, epdm, foam but NOT silicone. also it is a one coat application so we close much more business with this product because we come in as the lowest bid! It is a solvent product so primarily the reason it last all the years. Cheers
There are lots of coating options available that don't require a primer coat
I want to paint our poll building roof it has some black on the top. Other than that it’s in good shape I’m wondering do I just pressure wash the black and hope it comes off and then just paint over it
i love how the older generation just gets things done. no debating or talking it over but a decisive strike plan
I'm sorry but you don't know half of what you're talking about. The roof is rusted and cracked because the acrylic coating was never reapplied to spec and/or the roof wasn't prepped/coated properly. No coating will last forever and has to be reapplied/maintained on a regular basis. This is the guy that shows up to your job and tries to sell you a new roof for twice the cost. A roof restoration, done properly and maintained properly, will have none of the issues he shows
Good point.
I'm a roofing superintendent and I completely agree. It's obvious the roof was not prepped/coated properly.
He was wrong on 90% of everything he said this is a “know it all do it my self type guy”
I dunno mate. The expand/contract cold/heat has dragged the coating at the base of the valley away from the corner where it starts rising to a ridge. A lot of pressure there and an unfavourable angle for the coating to resist getting pulled away from the iron - I can see how this could happen no matter how good the prep. I suspect corrugated iron would not have this issue.
However, the roof is already so far gone. So, you assumption of him trying to sell a new roof is incorrect.
I was in the metal roofing business for 35 years, and while I do not think this man has any experience with metal roofing (uses pan head screws from Lowe's) he has a valid point, which is: Unless you are a professional painter, well versed in rusty metal surface preparation, and the equipment to do the job, do not use coatings. I was also a Porter Paint (now PPG) dealer, and wanted to paint my rusty barn roof white. I followed Porter Paint recommendations step by step, including an acid wash to neutralize the rust. The coating looked great for several years, until a hailstorm, then the paint was laying on the ground below the eaves of the barn, and I had a rusty roof again.
If you need to paint a rusty metal roof, I suggest you begin with a high quality asphalt roof coating. Stirring it well, and using a knob brush. Brushing makes the aluminum pigment leaf up better. Apply in warm weather. In 2 - 3 years, or when the coating begins to lose its shine, paint the roof again using a high quality liquid aluminum paint. This combination will last for 10 to 15 years.
If you have screws that are loose, go to a metal roofing store and get #12 or #14 screws with neoprene washers to replace.
I am from Chennai, India. You really saved me. I was about to buy the "So-called metal roof heat insulation coating". I might have ended with the rusty roof!
This guy is wrong! Coatings are a great option, just NOT fabric based systems. The one he's on is a fabric based system. Great options that will NOT do what he's posting out are ER Systems and FAR coatings. Both are liquid-based only. No fabric. Coatings can protect your aging metal and make a roof seamless. Any repair the "flat roof doctor" makes without protecting it from the UV rays won't last 2 years.
@@WestTNReb that isn't fabric... that is acrylic, which dries like rubbery plastic and when it fails becomes like thousands of little rubbery pockets to hold water.
Elastomeric paint it not meant to stand alone. After 2 coats of this 2 more coats of silicone rubber will keep it from doing this. You can't just use elastomeric paint by itself.
That seal will last 3 years tops, if that. Not to mention it was applied over an apparent wet and very cold surface which means adhesion is minimum. This will dry, crack and peel very fast. Also, the black color will take a beating from UV rays that will further accelerate deterioration. I'd love to see the state of this patch currently as this video is now 3 years old.
5:23 *everything reminds me of her…*
I have this same issue on my metal roof. Do you have any advice on removing it from a 40x60 shop?
At 10:45 you say, "acrylic, all silicon coatings I don't think works" & then repair with Turbo Poly Seal, but list Super Silicon Seal as your best advise in your Summary text - which of the two products do you prefer?
I have tested both and have used both products extensively. Super Silicone Seal is more fluid and will cause runs easily if the roof is slanted making it harder for a clean job whereas Turbo Poly Seal is leas liquidy. Turbo Poly Seal gives you less linear feet per gallon. I really can't say which one is better.
f you use Super Silicone Seal with the fleece in harsh Florida sun will last longer and you don't need to protect it against UV's.Turbo Poly Seal is nice for difficult areas and vertical surfaces as in flashing. Turbo Poly Seal is also much tougher.
Honestly, I really don't know which one is better.
Thanks for your comment.
You are a good observer.
In actuality, the problem is way more complex than what he's making it sound. It could have been a cheap coating. It could have been poor Surface Prep. We have no idea how old the coating was in the first place. It's very important to recoat your roof when it's necessary, not when you have leaks. It's also important to use a rust inhibiting primer underneath your top coat and seal off your Fasteners with caulk. His logic is very over simplified.
You are correct about everything except for the primer part 90% of time or more roofers don’t use primer and usually isn’t a problem
Didn’t notice your pfp^ I guess you are a roofer
It's called washing very well and priming all your bolts and edges then coming through and spraying it correctly alot of painters don't know the proper way to spray always spray your corners and edges first similar to cutting in maybe 3 panels then come back and spray your face surface I've sprayed many metal roofs and never got a call back it's all about taking your time and taking pride for your customers
You are correct, but margin for error is to great on big roofs. Almost impossible to guarantee that every screw and seam would be properly prepped
There it’s a wrong coat. The good surface preparation and right paint it’s going to extend the roof life a lot.
Sure, we all point to prepping a job, I have yet to see a roof that was prepped 100% correct. The scapegoat to all failing coatings is the prep work, lol
@@FlatRoofDoctor I agree. Whether roofs or houses people rarely want to pay for a complete and proper prep job.
Doesn't even look like the seams or fasteners were caulked. Just look like the whole roof was sprayed with no real attention before. Sad
I liked alcoa aluminum asphalt. works good lasts a long time.
Jetcoat and Henry Extreme sprayed on with a Graco Pro in three layers would work just fine in MOST applications. White is not very reflective compared to dedicated reflective coatings folks. Use your resources folks. NOT angry contractors fixing crappy jobs after the fact. Bad prep is the key of this video along with climate and weather in regions
I have been coating roofs for 21 years and I agree with everything you have said . What I like to do is use Polly seal and then coat with asphalt aluminum ,just because asphalt aluminum makes it look nice and you can't see all of the patches and because it is a very thin coating ,asphalt based coating it wears away and doesn't peal but it must be non fiber . Any silicone, acrylic or elastomeric I have ever used has failed horribly within 5 years and would have been better off to not do at all. Also asphalt aluminum does great on rusty areas ,I have coated roofs that have been on over 18 years it doesn't stop leaks but it wasn't designed for that but it makes a nice top coat.
so the asphalt is just for aesthetics ?
does the asphaly aluminum work on shingles and or bitumen? Thanks
You obviously do not know how to properly prep and use silicone and acrylic coatings.
@@seaseeker3499 no roof coating is supposed to stop leaks , they are to protect the roof from uv rays. You have to fix the leaks before using any coating
preparations makes the job. good video
exactly
Acrylic coatings are great for metal roofs. Like you mentioned in your videos, it's all about preparation. They obviously didn't prep this one. In California some contractors use a seam tape that has a peel and stick backing and polyester surface.
Once that's installed over seams and voids we apply acrylic gel and then after it's cured we apply lMetacrylics coating. That particular Astec didn't fare too well in Ca. Too much ceramic in the formula and lots of what you see there. I enjoy your videos 👍🏽. Keep them coming.
Thanks for your comment
Acrylic is horrible, especially on metal. Don't be delusional.... or be delusional and paint your car with acrylic because you think it's so great.
Preparation is essential and proper application is important. However, using an acrylic elastomeric that doesn't lose key characteristics, like essential flexibility (elongation), is key to a superior roof coating. Most roof coatings on the market will use inexpensive plasticizers (for flexibility), which leech out, and cause eventual cracking and/or flaking. Same thing happens with asphaltic based products (i..e aluminum asphalt), as their oils will leech out of their coating. Acrymax's acrylic elastomeric won't lose their flexibility as it is built into the backbone of the very polymer (of their resin). This allows Acrymax coated roofs to have their life extended almost indefinitely with simple periodic recoats (at 5, 10, 15, or even 20 year intervals). Recoats simply maintain mil thickness. The thicker, the more robust, the longer before a recoat. See this video link, highlighting a college's roofs, done with Acrymax nearly 40 years ago and still going strong today: ruclips.net/video/Q2m8rHBIUVg/видео.html
thanks for the info. im trying to learn about recoating mine just bought a metal roof house. these contractors are fucking liars i talk to
So what do you suggest to coat a metal roof? I don't have a leak but my metal roof is in need of a coating in general and I typically hire someone to do it and they put on a Kool Coat in double layers.
I am the superintendent of a roofing company and I would recommend using a non fibered aluminum roof coating.
Aluminum roof coatings is all i use. It doesn't have the cracking problem that acrylic and elastomeric coatings do
This is just an example of a bad job. My grandfather, my Dad and I have a combined experience of over 80 years of roofing. We have seen acrylic coated coated metal last for 20 years without a recoat. On the other hand, we have seen them fail just after 4 years on some bad jobs. This video is not a good representation of an acrylic coated metal. Just bad coating or bad preperation.
Hi, I’ve been reading the comments and have a question. I just built an Arrow metal shed in my backyard and I want to waterproof the metal....some parts already have some small rust parts😡 I don’t want to paint it, what clear coating could I spray over it to weatherproof it? I live in South Texas where it’s ALWAYS humid so any recommendations would be appreciated.
1. A combined experience doesn't mean a thing. Technologies change rapidly all the time. My son who was with me for 8 years has his own roofing business and is already is in other types of roofing applications. I stuck with Torch Down which I still believe is superior to any other roofing system.
2. Acrylic coatings are water-based paints. There is no latex or acrylic coating that can last 20 years on a vertical wall without being compromised. On a metal roof that gets super hot, it has less of a chance. Then all these paints shrink. As seen in the video. It is almost impossible to prepare the surface of the metal roof in such a way that it would be free from crut and dust.
I have seen the same thing over and over again and every coating I saw was applied by so-called "specialist" in roof coatings. They all have failed.
Now I really appreciate your comment, because there is some truth to what you said. Standards and quality have dropped. Maybe there are products that are designed to withstand the elements. But as you said, bad products and bad preparation make for an expensive job.
Thanks, buckethead151 you are a good man
@@FlatRoofDoctor Combined experience means we have seen a wide range of products and applications. It means we know what we are doing and how to do it right. We install Foam Roofing with either acrylic or silicone coating. It may not be superior in durability but it offers insulation unmatched by any other roofing system. We have seen tourch down systems that have failed due to improper installation just as you are showing in your video. Its up to the installer to make a roofing system work correctly. Thanks for your reply and your passion for a good roofing system. I'm sure you do a great job!
Exactly. I pressure washed, primer, flashing coat, and finish coated 13 storage unit buildings with Mule Hide acrylic coating. No bubbles or peeling...lasted 20 years.
@@HomeSteadingHomeVideo is there a difference between elastomeric and aluminum coating? i bought a hosue with a metal roof and since this costs alot i want to put the right shit on. i got 2 quotes and both were for aluminum.
Our 30 year old ministorage has 30k sq ft of 29ga galv or galvalum on 5 of 6 buildings. Similar product as your video but never painted.
Purlins are 1x3 wood spaced too wide at 36"-42" on factory wood trusses 3/12 slope. Concrete block sidewalls. New gutters and downspouts. In our 3 years have learned that NOBODY goes on the roof except a personally trained worker.
Fortunately we identified dents which allowed gaps in the overlap seams (from 30 years of untrained roof-walkers) and have sucked them together with rubber-grommeted screws on top of the metal profiles. Replaced probably 25% of the suspect screws with larger diameter (75% yet to go)
Appears leak problems are NOT accelerating, original fastenings mostly without rust stain (thanks to galvalum corrosion protection & rubber isolation washers). We've made significant gains against the very few customer complaints of water. Was a risky investment!
BUT the facility is below road-level such that the roofs present a poor image of our business and brand. Multicolor stains over white oxidized alum as you would expect. Unthinking, I thot to paint to achieve unform color, prhps white for heat control. But I know it will get dirty.
THANKS for the headsup about coating. But what shall I do for COSMETIC? And how to invest in a long-life impermeable roof? I'm thinking to add z-metal purlins on top of existing roof, one above each 1x3, plus one between, then a new powder coated roof over top. This way 190 tenants aren't exposed during the project. And prhps we insulate the space between old and new roof.
How can I reach you as a consultant?
Panheads without a silicone or rubber washer? Fleece? I didnt see an acual break in metal. Preperation is always key! Sealing properly, the coatings is essentially necessary! Its up to the owner whether he wants to spent big money or go cheaper. Details prepping all fastners, screws, etc. from what i saw, improper prep work was performed. Bad robots!
Enduris coating has served me well.
Too good sir respect for you from India
Thanks
Interesting topic. I plan to paint my roof with a white acrylic paint like that. There is a difference though. I see that you had ice underneath the paint. My house is in the tropics where I NEVER have ice formation. I think the melting and freezing of ice (which causes expansion) is a major cause for the paint to be pulled off the roof. Even if it would affect the durability of my roof, it's probably worth it painting my roof, because of the aircon energy I can save from painting it white. I do have a lot of expansion and contraction from the hot sun, but perhaps the white paint can help to reduce that expansion a bit.
If installed properly on a newer roof I imagine it works well
The main purpose of those white color roof coatings is to reflect the solar heat. Without the coating, the roof would get unbearably hot, and heat up the space beneath. I'm glad that you show this problem, but not painting is not a good solution either. There should be a better solution.
yes, you are correct. but people sell the idea that coatings will stop leaks. To reflect the sun to reduce heat one should use Aluminum Asphalt Paint. That is the best reflector. Using coatings like acrylic and Silicone is not as good as Aluminum Asphalt.
@@FlatRoofDoctor SRI is the determining factor. Higher the SRI, more it can reflect solar heat. But as you point out in this video, one should also make sure to select proper coatings/techniques to prevent rusting issues. I wasn't aware of that issue before.
Roof Doctor,
I have an older metal roof that has begun to leak. It was put on with roofing nails. The gaskets are old and some of the nails have begun to back out. How would you suggest I repair it. Replace all the nails with larger screws or..? And seal the seams?
What can I used to those covers then
Removal will take months. Don't know, but seems like individual blobs of, say, exterior silicone over each fastener would seal the fastener from rust but also allow any water to pass over or by the individual fasteners.
im new to metal roofs just bought a house with one and its a bit rusty. i dont have regular paint on it only the silver metal. what your talking about is someone painting the roof a color right? your not talking about elastic or fibered aluminum coating right? because i have some surface rust and im almost positive i need it brushed off and recoated with one of the 2. this house is 100 yrs old
I think the best bet is to use non fibered Aluminum asphalt coating by Karnak
Protect it with zinc paint not aluminium/asphalt. Zinc chemically protects the steel from rusting. Then top coat to protect from UV. Could use Aluminium asphalt on top.
@@davidstobie5373 all this makes my head want to explode lol. trying to find contractors has been ridiculous. and my quotes are anywhere from 1000 to 14k. between trying to find what coating to use and whats a good price im going insane
Hi there, thais for the good video. I have here a 60,000 water tank with rusty big patches inside of it, and I saw today little drops coming from the outside. Help, how to patch this up? Could I use your technic, I also have been thinking of cement with water proofer but then I have to do the whole tank, it looked like a cold long day on that roof. Greetings from southern Spain.
you might could use rapid set cement all . Its pretty good or a type of leakstop cement
Can someone tell me if they wanted to change the color of their metal roof could they do that? What product / preparation would they use?
This Guy is Amazing. I cant imagine the idiots who put the coating on it and how the owners were looking for a Man who Knows His STUFF!
I'm getting a snap-lock standing seam metal roof installed on my house. Would recommend that I get bare (unpainted & without acrylic coating) AZ55 Galvalume steel panels, instead of the more common acrylic coated or painted steel panels?
very good
Problem is depending on the pitch of the roof, water lays in front of the patch and then rusts there.
Roof was not cleaned properly before wrong acrylic coating was installed. Should have used silicone. Best to fill flutes and install a TPO membrane roof using the Rino Bond method of attachment.
Im coating a 70 year old metal roof. Can't be that damn bad.
It depends too on who installs it. I worked for one roofing company that had put put on the coating that needed 16 hours minimum dry weather and we slapped in on 2 hours before the rain came.
Gotta love hacks
What do you think about polyurea coating on metal roof?
Great information on metal roofing. I have a question and would greatly like your professional opinion. What do you recommend for a metal roof that has some surface rust that is not deep, but needs to be coated with something? Thank you very much!
Aluminum Asphalt coating I think is the best. Just lightly brush of the rust, not necessary to take it all of, then paint it with this. Karnak makes the best Asphalt coating.
. I agree. Once coated, an elastomeric coating would work, but I do not like covering rust with any water-based coating until remedial steps are taken. Ospho is a good rust stabilizer to use first, but asphalt gets the job done.
I want use flex seal max for my patio roof that is metal..what do you think of that.??
You miss the point. Any sealant is not equal to others, and the Fleece is the secret to the strength
I would highly recommend going back with the same type of screws it’s not very practical to use anything else on a roof
What do you Recommend for painting Polycarbonate Plastic Roofing Material??
I have a Galvalume roof and would never just slap an elastomeric coating on it without surface prep. I would first spray it with a bleach solution to kill mold and bacteria, rinse, and then make a dop stick by stuffing an old athletic sock inside another one and zip-tying it to the end of a screw-type wooden rake replacement handle. I would get a gallon of Ospho rust converter and saturate the dop stick and dop each screw, twisting the stick to get thorough coverage. I also would seek out any rust (generally not a problem unless you let the roof go way too long before taking action). I would then use aluminized fibered roof coating to cover each screw and seam before applying elastomeric coating. I would then wait several days until the coating had cured and then apply two coats of elastomeric coating, letting the first coat dry thoroughly.
thank you
Great video..one question, on an R-panel roof if it looks somewhat bend in or stepped on hard..like someone stepped on it very hard and now it looks like bend downwards and to the sides where it was stepped on....will this case the R-panel to leak?
what do you think of Calbar products?
Have no idea what that is
@@FlatRoofDoctor It has itś own website. I think itś elastomeric
@@marieshawn8590 don't buy any type of acrylic , silicone or elastomeric coating. They ALL will crack in a few years , trap water and rot your roof away. Take it from me who had to spend over $5,000 on a new roof.
I have a question. I have a very nice mobile home. I have a metal roof. Every time it rains or the wind blows I have this grey matter that lands on my deck. To me, it looks like grey silver sealant or something. Any idea what I would replace it with?
The metal roof on my garage is over 50 years old. Has original coating. No holes no leaks. Leaving it alone
Sooooo what do you to do a metal roof that's coating has worn off over time then? You can't just leave it uncoated or cover the entire roof with that poly seal stuff.
My question as well. Our metal roof is 60 years old, believe it or not. It has been painted, sealed, patched, etc. many times over the years, with all kinds of material, who knows of what kind. Fortunately rust has not been much of a problem. There has been few leaks, mainly along ridge lines, but these have not been difficult to fix, and the roof actually still looks great. I dread the prospect of having to replace the roof, so will continue to coat or paint as often as possible. I intend to do this by myself, as much as I find it exhausting to do. But we’ve hired a few passers by to coat the roof in the past, and upon recent close inspection, I can see problems in the making due to carelessness. I’m enjoying the many comments and suggestions, but it can be confusing. Anyway, from our own personal experience, a metal roof can last a long time if maintained with some kind of coating, beginning perhaps when the shine of the original paint starts to wear off. (We live in a very mild climate at 1200 ft, leeward side of Hawaii island. We have moderate rainfall, no wind, 60 to 80 degrees year round. Cloud cover is about 50% year round.)
I'm glad I found this video. I have a leaking metal roof and was considering a coating. Now I know better.
silicone is $$$ at $250 a bucket but will last forever.....
Is there anything you can put on metal roofing or basically just leave it natural the way you buy it would anybody happen know
man im trying to figure out the same thing. from what i find is you need a roof coating, not a roof paint. you need either fiber aluminum roof coating, or elastomeric coating. itll be silver. i do see some really nice metal roofs around me that are red that look flawless. so there has to be something out there. it seems if the metal isnt prepped right while its made then no coating of anything will survive on it
@@hippa2dahoppa2 Zinc based primer to protect steel roofing, and top coat after thorough preparation. Don't seal up overlaps. These should drain due to gravity..
Poor guys freezing up there.
He needs a work blanket & pillow
🤣😂😆
Just like some of the under coatings sprayed under cars on the frame. Some just trap the water & salt causing it to rot out faster.
Ty kindly 🙏.. Northern California and two roof contractors messing around. Can you come here....6/22
Any advice for removing rust on large scale for a big roof like in your video? I saw people use acids
Yep. I spent over 1000 on 3 cans of rubbet coating and found out water trapped under and rusting metal away.
My zinc awning has rusted very quickly without a coating, so how do you stop the rust if not with a coating?
Rust Grip® No More Corrosion! Over 20 Years Rust Protection!
What do you to on a 30 year old metal roof that the original coating is starting to degrade? Change out the roof? It is a very high end metal design.
I am not an expert on metal coatings. But, I suggest you research how to go about treating metal roofs where the galvanized or paint is starting to come off.
What I am showing in this video is that spraying a latex coating over a metal roof will cause problems.
The biggest problem are the seams. As soon as you coat over a seam, that will trap water eventually causing it to accumulate between the panels causing rust. Also we found that the coating was not adhering around every screw and water ended up penetrating that part of the coating causing the metal to rust around the screw.
What we did was to remove the old coatings around the screw with an angle grinder and steel brush and dabbed the screw with Super Silicone Seal or Turbo Poly Seal. This works very good. The cleaning of each screw is critical.
We also removed the screws on the seams, separated the seams, painted Turbo Poly Seal with fleece 4" up between the seams and also 4" below the seam. Then waited for this to dry and then screwed the panels back down unto the cured Turbo Poly Seal. So this would prevent any water that gets trapped between the seams to cause rust.
Call me a "hack" but for $20,000 per 400 foot seam, saved the roof that would cost $400, 000 to replace.
@@FlatRoofDoctor thanks for the reply.
Rust Grip® No More Corrosion! Over 20 Years Rust Protection!
I would have chemically treat the rust first to neutralize it. Grinding off thick rust and covering it up just looks good. The rust remains and grows again. IT is a band aid that looks good. The rust remains.
I will point out some facts.
1) Surface preparation is everything on any roof coating.
a. Remove any loose rust with a wire wheel.
b. Treat solid rust with an agent that chemically changes the rusted surface.
c. Replace bad screws
d.Pressure wash and THOROUGHLY DRY.
Make sure pressure wash removes all loose material
2. Epoxy is best by acrylic will probably work if you follow surface prep.
It is almost cheaper to replace than to properly coat depending upon surface preparation required and material choice.
All the comments have 1 thing in common, "prepping".
read my previous comment.
What to used to bprotect the roof galavanae
Does turbo poly seal dry hard or does it stay tacky 🤔
It's why people use FLEX SEAL(WHITE) to seal the whole roof at least 3 full coatings. NOT little bit here and there because it will cause that problem. You must cover the whole roof. 3 coatings will do it and last for decades. It cost a little more and saves you big trouble if done right.
flex seal gimmie a break will leak quicker than any other product, execpt for bandaids i guess
The only real way to fix leaks is to fix the leaks... Don't just coat over them and expect the coating to fix it.
Prep is a job in itself. My opinion is that the first step wasn't done property and that is sanding cleaning brushing away blowing etc.
yes, true, but I think it his hard for anyone to do quality control on a huge project and therefor that would always become an issue. Prepping is the issue, then product, then application.
I am wondering if it will work on my RV roof.
Elastomeric reflective Jetcoat will work the best
the man is right, Coatings are a bad idea. Do it right the first time. replace the metal roof with a new metal roof. Coatings are a temperary fix at best. The cost of replacing a "coated roof" is substanially higher then an untouched one. It's like kicking the can a few years down the road, the problem does not go away.
And when the paint over the fleece cracks, which is does over time, or is no longer water proof for whatever reason, the fleece serves as the ideal water absorbent material and creates a nice water pocket to assist with rusting the roofing. So this does not resolve the problem at all. Maybe for a year or two, until the roof coating becomes brittle, cracks and lets water through. Then it becomes the problem, instead of being the solution.
For a guy who do the job and understand by heart is someone to believe NOT just any expert BS.
I have been coating roofs for 20 years . The best way to coat a roof is to, patch all nail heads with through the roof / geocel. And coat roof with asphalt aluminum non fibered . Asphalt aluminum wears off and never peels , all silicone and acrylic will eventually let lose over time and then you have a mess. Also asphalt alum is a rust inhibitive roof coating . This man knows what he is talking about
Hi I’m going to work on my mobile home roof. Any tips on what I can apply? I have 2 very small leaks. It’s an aluminum roof that’s never been treated with anything. Just has a few rust areas and I plan on grinding off the rust as well as cleaning up the roof. Would really appreciate any tips.. :)
@@evekelly3832 patch the leaky spots with something like gaco patch. Gaco coating is a great product, the company I work for sells alot of them. I've never had any problems. But honestly the best thing to do is repair the infected areas with new roofing panels. It's not a difficult process. But also if you mess it up you'll have more than 2 small leaks.
I use the top acrylic coating out there and I guarantee it’s a lot better product than the junk you just applied! When I get done coating a metal roof it’s more waterproof than the day it was installed.
You are correct, it is water tight for the 1st 2 years. After several years it becomes a nightmare. The acrylic dries out. Just see any exterior painted walls on houses. Thats why houses need to be painted every so many years. Imagine a roof that is in direct sunlight and hotter than any wall. Acrylic paint on a roof will fail.
The truth is that most people can't get the original contractor back after several years. They disappear.
I would think something like a hard enamel would be better. Like Rustoleum, or even an epoxy paint of some sort.
At 9.15 when you screw the sheets together and water comes out. Can this be due to condensation running down underneath the top sheet into the lap?
Sealing the top surface of the joint keeps this water in. There is a reason why you should probably leave the lower edge of the lap joint open to drain.
The alternative is to seal the top and the bottom of the overlap to keep the condensation out, making sure you use screws with washers to ensure the
water tightness there as well.
I originally thought the same, that condensation is trapped one's I closed the seams. Come to find out that there is no condensation due to the insulation on the inside. If condensation was an issue, then all the seams would be leaking almost every day. So, I realized that the seams were so rusted because of the acrylic coating that trapped the water in, I then decided to clean every seam up and do a proper seal using Turbo Poly Seal and sometimes Super Silicone Seal
Havnt you applied the asphalt aluminum coating before? I thought you liked that stuff
CI Roofing
I Have to agree and Disagree with your opinion We have Sprayed over 700,000 sft so far in 2020 of Acrylic on Metal Roofs and don't have that issue At the end of the day its all about proper preparation and cleaning Theres is a lot of flyby night shady roofers out there So I feel you not being partial to the product that Hundreds of vendors sell the Acrylic The application you have applied is the basic Roof cement that I totally despise that makes by Coating look bad after it dries because it shows thru
I respect your view But I still trust Acrylics if applied correct
Nice!! Thank you sir
Most welcome
And whats the black stuff you put??
I think they do work. I've had little problems using elastomeric. Whoever applied the coat on this job obviously applied it wrong.. I can see right through it. Here in New Mexico the roof will hit 130 140 degrees and black tar will last a few years before the heat eventually eats it. I've found white coatings work best on metal roofs.
You've not had any of the problems he's talking about? How many coats did you use?
Ok, both of you are correct. The point I was trying to make is that it is almost impossible to prepare a metal roof 100% before applying a coating. There will always be so dirt somewhere around screws, seams and in general that will prevent the coating from adhering.
I also think white is better. What about Aluminum Asphalt to reflect the heat instead of a expensive Silicone or Elastomeric coating?
@@FlatRoofDoctorI've never heard of aluminum asphalt. I'll look into that too. Thank you.
That’s a lot of work !
Fixing any mess is more work than doing it right from the start
Was looking to use a product like this on the roof of my ol suburban. Silicon then?
Use 100% silicone white roof coating like from gaco
@@angryhands9564 I ended up going with a product from Sherwin Williams called bond-plex. Even had it matched to my paint color. Holding up so far.
Silicone coating fits dry and hot areas more since it’s UV resistant
You are the Bob Ross of Roofing…
Thanks
Thanks a lot. You have saved my hard-earned $$$. You are a good man!
You welcome Jake - If metal roof owners only knew about coatings and not just listen to salespeople selling a product that would compromise the metal roof
Flat Roof Doctor , thanks again! 👍👏👌
@@universeusa You are welcome
Flat Roof Doctor , 👍👌👏
@@universeusa What are you doing so up early on a Sunday morning?
Have a nice day
What's the best way to clean a Mobile Home metal roof? I live in a co-op and they are pretty fussy on how things look around here. I was thinking about coating my roof, not anymore....thanks for the education!
mobile home roof i would use henry tropi-cool silicone white roof coating
@@jgg204 The question was Clean, not Cote.
To fix a roof that big would cost a fortune! Makes better sense to install a new roof.
You are right with that statement. I have been fixing this roof and have spent over 5 weeks and over $15 K on materials.
Let's break it down.
Materials - $15 k
Labor - $30 k
Charged the Customer $100 K
To replace the entire roof would have cost $450 K
So, when the cost of repairs is more than 20% of the replacement, I think then a replacement is better.
The reason we did the repairs instead, is that we did not know the extent of the repair when we got started. It became more obvious almost halfway through.
My rate for the repair is lower on this project because the owner and I were surprised at the extend of work to follow. So, I felt that I was at fault too, and eased on the cost.
i have 900mt of metal roof and that black thing with time sun burs it and it turs like dust,,i clean everything and use a 20 year warranty silicon coating and its 6 years now and in perfect condition
You are correct. In most of the videos where I use Turbo Poly Seal, I do tell people to use Silver Coat Protection. It is a tougher product than Silicone. But, I also use Super Silicone Seal in many places, for that reason
Excellent video!!! Would small pieces of fleece and poly seal be good for screws that are leaking? I have replaced the dumb grommet screws with new ones and it didn't solve the problem so I wondered about doing this on them. Thanks!!!!
Just use the Turbo Poly Seal without the fleece on the screws. Make sure you clean around every screw before applying the Turbo Poly seal
@@FlatRoofDoctor Awesome, thanks for the fast reply!
You can simply use a polyurethane caulking on all of your fasteners.
@@kevinwaller6353 awesome thanks!
I agree you can’t coat every metal roof. Some are just too far gone, you either need a super aggressive primer $$$$$ or tear off.
I hope no one took this video serious
'''''''''''''''''''''''You're the best teacher! Thank you so much
Hi flat dr EPDM install 6 years what is best roof sealant for EPDM thank you.
I recommend Super Silicone Seal on all the seams. Watch this video to see why ruclips.net/video/sxXBS0v3hVY/видео.html
ER300 hands down. I am totally against using silicone but a lot of people use it. Coat the entire roof with ER300 and there will not be any seams anymore.
👍👍👍 like ur videos it’s a good advice in what brand to buy and what not
welcome
Thank you for the video Roof Doctor!
Thanks for the comment Sam. How are you?
I've been doing roofing since I was a child I'm 40 years old now and I have learned more in those years on flat roofs from you thank you and God bless you and your family
I'm good hoping to learn everything I can from you, if I ever have any questions about what I'm doing could I ask for your opinion, getting involved with some tpo and epdm stuff now. Always good to know people, thank you for your time man
Anytime, I am always here to help
Now you need to learn about marketing. Doing the work is the easy part, finding the jobs is hard. That is what I spend most of my time in is marketing.
How do people find you?
This looks like it wasn’t cleaned, primed and even applied properly
CORRECT !!!! Not products fault but worker error