I have been a repair technician for nearly 30 years. 13 years at AT&T. Many years as a certified 3rd party repairman for Dell, HP, Sony, Vizio, IBM, Lenovo, LG and so on. From laptops, desktops, industrial printers, TVs and so on. All the way down to board level. What I love about this guy. Is that his visual presentations are far above and beyond any others I have ever seen. I know that the time it takes for him to make these videos, slows down his on hand experience in learning repair. But dude. Do not change your approach. You can only grow from here and your presentations are awesome. Far better than any college course I ever took or youtube video I have ever watched.
Yeees new video!!!insert a keyboard into the usb port and check if numberlock works, don't be disappointed because that's how we each learn from mistakes and failures. Thank you very much!
Thanks, your videos are great. Would heating up the graphics processor to reflow its connections be an option? Does the voltage from the power supply reach the graphics processor?
I think you need to investigate why the current draw is fluctuating before you power it on - it should be stable. A thermal camera might show you a component that's getting hot and cooling down again, but without one of those it could be tricky. Also, is there a 5V LDO supply somewhere? I didn't see you checking one if there is...
Yeah, when reviewing the video before upload, that was the one thought that stayed with me - why is it fluctuating, it just seems wrong? That 5.06V on PL353 is present both when the laptop is powered on and when it is powered off, but the inductor seems to be too big for it to be a low current LDO. Cannot find 3.3V LDO but power button has 3.34V (and works) and Super IO has 3.34V (on VCC caps) so 3.3V LDO must be present. Let me see if I can find where the LDOs are generated.
Yeah i know that one frustration when all the volts are where they should be & still cannot get it to fire up' anyhow i have subscribed which i rarely do, looking forward to your updates
Thanks for your comment, I will try your suggestions. I have gone back to the start and I'm focussed on why there is a 6mA to 12mA varying in the current drawn (before actually pressing power button). I have found the 3.3V LDO and it is varying from 3.29V to 3.39V, so I think the issue is there.
a) 1.35 V called VDD for CPU, 1.05 V called VCC for CPU, 3V ALW for PCH and other important IC's, 3VS where VS = Vsys. b) Your voltage measurements on the inductors all seem correct to me. Your ohmic measurements confirm that to me as well. c) Make voltage measurements at the terminal of each ceramic capacitor connected directly to a terminal or pin on the Super I/O IC; so as not to have to measure the 128 terminals that the latter has. Finally, in this case, by using an external monitor, it is not necessary to check the LVDS (LVDS Cable, Conn or Jack receptacle, smd fuses or ceramic capacitors on MoBo nor is it necessary to check it upon arrival at the Display Panel). On the other hand, if this motherboard uses Processor and PCH together (that is, what they call "chipset"), it is most likely that this IC itself is the cause of the failure...ugh. Frustration? All electronic repairers have experienced it countless times (I've lost count), however the behavior of good doctors serves as an example to me; Even in cases of disaster (earthquakes, wars...) even if they feel tired or exhausted, they always say in a calm and friendly voice: next one, please. Thank you very much for your time and sharing. PS: I would add to the list to always use a new circular 3V for BIOS battery for testing purposes only.
I have been a repair technician for nearly 30 years. 13 years at AT&T. Many years as a certified 3rd party repairman for Dell, HP, Sony, Vizio, IBM, Lenovo, LG and so on. From laptops, desktops, industrial printers, TVs and so on. All the way down to board level. What I love about this guy. Is that his visual presentations are far above and beyond any others I have ever seen. I know that the time it takes for him to make these videos, slows down his on hand experience in learning repair. But dude. Do not change your approach. You can only grow from here and your presentations are awesome. Far better than any college course I ever took or youtube video I have ever watched.
💗❤💙Thank you a thousand times !
Yeees new video!!!insert a keyboard into the usb port and check if numberlock works, don't be disappointed because that's how we each learn from mistakes and failures.
Thank you very much!
Nice job yet !
Thanks, your videos are great. Would heating up the graphics processor to reflow its connections be an option? Does the voltage from the power supply reach the graphics processor?
Excellent ❤🎉as always. I have a surface pro 9 with exactly same symptom, I know how you feel.
I think you need to investigate why the current draw is fluctuating before you power it on - it should be stable. A thermal camera might show you a component that's getting hot and cooling down again, but without one of those it could be tricky. Also, is there a 5V LDO supply somewhere? I didn't see you checking one if there is...
Yeah, when reviewing the video before upload, that was the one thought that stayed with me - why is it fluctuating, it just seems wrong? That 5.06V on PL353 is present both when the laptop is powered on and when it is powered off, but the inductor seems to be too big for it to be a low current LDO. Cannot find 3.3V LDO but power button has 3.34V (and works) and Super IO has 3.34V (on VCC caps) so 3.3V LDO must be present. Let me see if I can find where the LDOs are generated.
Yeah i know that one frustration when all the volts are where they should be & still cannot get it to fire up' anyhow i have subscribed which i rarely do, looking forward to your updates
Try again with CPU heatsink and fan connected.
If this doesn't work try to put minor pressure on CPU and see if it makes any difference.
Thanks for your comment, I will try your suggestions. I have gone back to the start and I'm focussed on why there is a 6mA to 12mA varying in the current drawn (before actually pressing power button). I have found the 3.3V LDO and it is varying from 3.29V to 3.39V, so I think the issue is there.
I used to repair XBOXs you would be surprised how much the board flex's & causes all sorts of issues 👌
a) 1.35 V called VDD for CPU, 1.05 V called VCC for CPU, 3V ALW for PCH and other important IC's, 3VS where VS = Vsys.
b) Your voltage measurements on the inductors all seem correct to me. Your ohmic measurements confirm that to me as well.
c) Make voltage measurements at the terminal of each ceramic capacitor connected directly to a terminal or pin on the Super I/O IC; so as not to have to measure the 128 terminals that the latter has.
Finally, in this case, by using an external monitor, it is not necessary to check the LVDS (LVDS Cable, Conn or Jack receptacle, smd fuses or ceramic capacitors on MoBo nor is it necessary to check it upon arrival at the Display Panel).
On the other hand, if this motherboard uses Processor and PCH together (that is, what they call "chipset"), it is most likely that this IC itself is the cause of the failure...ugh.
Frustration? All electronic repairers have experienced it countless times (I've lost count), however the behavior of good doctors serves as an example to me; Even in cases of disaster (earthquakes, wars...) even if they feel tired or exhausted, they always say in a calm and friendly voice: next one, please.
Thank you very much for your time and sharing.
PS: I would add to the list to always use a new circular 3V for BIOS battery for testing purposes only.