Lifeboat Conversion Ep6: Fuel Tank Racking [4K]
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
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EPISODE 6
The original rigid steel 200 litre SOLAS fuel tank would never be enough for Alan, so sturdy racking for a series of diesel fuel tanks needs to be installed in the main chamber of the boat.
Products mentioned: ATL Fuelocker 400L, Diablo 108L inboard fuel tank, 40mm and 50mm galvanised steel box section (3mm thick), 10mm A4 (316 - marine) and A2 (304 - non-marine) stainless steel bolts/washers/nuts, Fulham Timber 18mm hardwood plywood (construction grade), LD40 polyurethane 2-part closed-cell foam.
Model: NME A/S (Husnes, Norway) 7.5m TELB
Engine: Bukh DV48 turbo diesel
Feel free to ask any questions in the comments!
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![Lifeboat Conversion Ep7: The Grand Tour (of the exterior) [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9Cn1DLbbIC4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep7: The Grand Tour (of the exterior) [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![*SPECIAL* Lifeboat Conversion Ep20: Multi-day sea trials in the Thames Estuary, England [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nls6mFLzNe0/mqdefault.jpg)
I should have mentioned - there will be a followup episode later to show the racking cleared, fuel tanks installed, and readied for sea, including protection of corners and other hazards.
And that thing is cool I would love to get one what are the price ranges and what's the chances of getting one near Southern California if you don't mind love you series by the way and all your work
Never thought about putting up shelves being a "British past time". 😂. Absolutely. I put my first shelves up aged 8. Can still picture all the times watching my dad put shelves up.
Proud to be a part of the team that manufactured your fuel bladders, best of luck on your endeavors, your friendly ATL Machinist
Thank you Jason!
Some tips for drilling stainless steel on a drill press: Put your work piece in a drill vice that is attached to the table. Use a hammer and centerpoint to create a depression that is larger than the web of your drill. All drilling should be done at a slow speed while putting a large amount of pressure on the drill bit. This is to prevent work hardening from friction. Any hole size larger than 5 mm should be pilot drilled unless you have drills with split points. Get yourself multiple stubby pilot drills and spare drills or the means to sharpen drills. Use drilling oil or cutting fluid. Wear eye protection.
Thanks for this. Aside from the clips shown which were quick 1mm widenings of existing holes (I concede that using footage with a vice clearly shown would be better), all these procedures were followed, and indeed many were mentioned in the video: eye protection, slow speed, cutting fluid, pilot holes etc. We'll look into getting stubby bits as you mention - useful.
Just a small comment from a steelwork designer - combining stainless steel bolts with galv. steel isn't a terrific idea - it can cause galvanic corrosion in and around the bolted connection and is generally avoided for structural applications. You'd be better served either using purely stainless steel and stainless fixings, or going the other way and using purely galv steel with galvanised fixings or zinc plated fixings. For long term exposure to salt water as well, lower grades of stainless steel aren't suitable, 316L should be considered a minimum for any external exposure to salt water, which would necessitate A4 fixings.
Also - you should be aware that when you cut galvanised sections you are exposing the untreated surface to the air which can corrode, the galvanisation procedure is purely surface level (40-100 micron) and the untreated ends should be either "cold galv" repaired or treated with a zinc rich paint to prevent oxidation at those ends.
I would imagine in this application you'll probably be fine, as if there is a significant amount of salt water inside the boat you've probably got bigger problems, but it's always worth bearing in mind :)
I'd also consider using nyloc nuts instead of spring washers as they're much more resiliient in terms of prevailing torque in harsh climates and varying temperatures/humidities compared to run-of-the-mill spring washers.
Awesome videos either way - got me hooked!
I mean, it should be welded. And I don’t trust the securing method to the hull. Fiberglass and metal don’t flex evenly under strain and as the boat works that tanks going to get looser and looser. Not to mention the free surface effect when the tank is half full.
Drilling stainless steel use water rather than cutting fluid, that's the secret. An hose pipe running is perfect.
Only just found your adventure, fantastic.
Just a thought on drilling stainless steel, as you say you’re using good quality bits, I have found over the years that whenever possible I submerge my part in water and drill very slowly with his high pressure as possible. I recently drilled 76 holes in half inch plate With a half inch drillbit and at the end of the job you could not see any sign of work where on the cutting edge of the bit. This all came from keeping it very cool and also not allowing the stainless to work harden by stopping during the drilling process. Very interesting project you have there ,Thanks for the great videos.
Man, you are a driven workaholic. Write books and still get all this stuff done. It takes me a year and a half just to build a garden shed.
Plenty of time to relax and rest when I've conked it!
Loving the vids. Looking forward to the next ones.
Thanks Alan. Good name.
Good job drilling the stainless steel! Been there done that 🔩
Slowly does it...
Just to let you know, not sure if there's anything you can do, but the video queue jumped from 4 to 6, missing 5. I checked and 5 is still there so viewers can search for it, but many might not notice and miss the epic adhesive strength test.
That's odd - 5 is in the playlist ok. Anyone else have this?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Yep, it skipped right to 6 from 4.
Thanks for the warning, I would have missed 5
Tnx, I didn't even pay attention to the titles, I'll have to go back to watch 5! also yeah same here Alex, 4 to 6 skipping right over 5 not sure why either way interesting series so far!
You should paint the sides of your plywood if humidity gets in through there it starts delaminating, good job and carry on. thanks
Indeed - painted and PU coated. I'll do a followup racking episode.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Epoxy makes a great timber end grain sealer, however it'd take a lot of moisture to make a good quality ply like that come apart and you'll have bigger worries if that structure is that wet :-D
Loving this. I always thought this is a good platform. Dreaming of owning one in the UK and doing a Harry Dwyer but in TELB instead of a zodiac/dinghy. Start from Dover and end at Dover. I don’t even live in the UK lol but that’s my dream. I will do it. Thanks for the inspiration.
Another excellent vlog.
Glad you enjoyed it
Keep plugging the books. I’ll buy one one day.
Will do!
This three-dimensional technology is revolutionary.
Round the edges of that table! Better yet, put some nice big foam corners on it.
I lived on a boat for many years and when things are rocking about and you smack your hip into the corner you'll thank me.
The safety and sea trial prep videos will come. He's ashore right now so limited risk! The plan is for low profile silicone edge and corner protection, and then removable, larger foam padding that can be attached when necessary.
As you use supplies and fuel you could pump water into tanks in the boat to maintain an appropriate buoyancy for the return trip
In principle a fine idea, but surely this would make them unusable for refueling though? I would guess Alan will be subject to sea trials with full and empty fuel tanks to prove its handling characteristics...
@@djmidg Could there be an internal rubber bladder for the seawater?
Freshwater and diesel have long been stored in same tanks.. although they may need to separate to 2 tanks to make that work efficiently (due to smaller tank size, turbidity).. the motor could produce drinking water..
@@djmidg In Diesel submarines (a la WWII) the fuel tanks are open to the sea at the bottom. Diesel floats on water so the fuel was suctioned off the top for use and sea water came in to replace it in real time. If they were depth charged, the open nature meant the tanks were impervious to damage because the shock wave passed right through. Also it meant the bouyancy didnt change as much as if the fuel was replaced with air, which would have required serious ballast to offset.
@@natehill8069 yup I watched a old black and white video called how to build a submarine and the fuel system was impressive
Dammm I need more
thank you!
Nice boat
Enjoying the videos very much! Would you consider increasing the lenght of the vids? I find the vids to be very short.
A little longer please 😁 6-8 minutes would be niiiice. Not a drag to watch and not over too quickly!
Noted, thanks. Lots of conflicting opinions on duration so far!
yeah, I think 20 mins is ideal for a video series, 30 tops.
It may be too late now, but a cheap magnetic drill press and some carbide annular drills might make things go easier in the stainless and thicker work pieces. Barring that, drilling a small pilot hole of a diameter that will allow clearance for the web of your finish drill bit will make drilling that hard thick stuff much easier. The web of the twist drill doesn't cut so you end up just using brute force to "dent" the center of your hole before the cutting edge can get to the metal to do the actual cutting. It's a two step process but usually ends up saving time if you have a dedicated drill motor for the pilot drill and don't have to rechuck the twist drills as you switch from one to the other.
There is a technique whereby you use something like an ax or sledge hammer handle or even a pipe to extend over the butt of your power drill to a length of chain with a link hook on one end that has been looped around something solid. By adjusting the chain length and keeping the chain fairly close to the power drill, the end of the "stick" that is not stuck through the chain loop becomes a lever that will act like a drill press handle and give you leverage for drilling in areas where you can't use your weight to advance the drill. We call it "an old man" where I work. Hope this was of some help. Hate to see folks work harder than they need to.
Thanks John. We were certainly pilot drilling, but your tip in the second paragraph is very useful, thanks.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals If you find the "stick" wants to slip on the power drill, epoxy an short inverted hex bolt to the butt of the power drill and drill a series of shallow divots down the length of your "stick". Locating the bolt in the appropriate divot will help keep it from slipping and enable you to drill deeper holes before shortening the chain loop. If you have tried the "old man" the way I first described it, which, frankly, was very hard to do, owing to the many miles I had to cover with the explanation, and got that to work, you should understand what I'm suggesting here. Glad it was helpful. When a journeyman showed it to me as an apprentice my first thought was " I'm writin' that down right now!"
Spring style washer don’t lock.
Check out nord-lock if you actually need locking washers :)
A couple of people have mentioned these - they look good. However, the boat was originally made with hundreds of spring washers - as were all the neighbouring boats, and they haven't fallen apart.
Yep want one! When is Alex back from his trip?
Assembly method is definitely interesting. You spent nearly as much on bracketry and bolts, as you would have in a tig welder
With the ability to partially/fully disassemble and alter the structure.
hardware and bracketry are expensive, but nowhere near the price of a tig welder. 🙃
"Under atmospheric conditions of moderate to mild humidity, contact between a galvanized surface and a stainless steel surface is unlikely to cause substantial corrosion. However, if the surfaces are in the presence of salt water or salt water air, it would be best to electrically isolate the two metals." -American Galvanizers Association (I didn't quite understand if you are using two different materials here so if you are then switch to ALL galvanized or all stainless OR add rubber between the metals/bolts)...
More structurally sound to use an anode as appropriate, as rubber would massively compromise the bolt secureness.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Ahhh, anode as in a sacrificial anode? Or some sort of system to control electrical charges?
Try using plain water and slow speed when drilling stainless steel. I think you will be pleased with the results.
The cutting paste seemed to do a good job, but I'll try water in future as a test. Thanks. Slow speed - naturally.
Ever thought about doing your amateur radio license? You would need to do your full license but some of the extreme places you go would make some awesome contacts and get some attention
I have a short range radio licence. Is that what you mean?
I'm curious why you didn't weld your stainless steel rather than bolt all your structural rectangular steel together? It certain you have saved you some weight and a heck of a lot of drilling. In the event of engine failure, what is your alternate source of propulsion? What about fuel contamination from condensation in the tanks? I'm sure you have thought about all this but perhaps I missed it.
It's so the racking can be altered and dismantled for different projects. Also, so it could be removed from the boat temporarily without having to cut metal. We actually want weight down low, and the bolts only weigh a kilo or two. The engine and backup system for going blue water will be covered later. For coastal travel a single reliable engine is fairly normal. Fuel cleaning and filtering again will be covered later, but will be nothing beyond the usual.
Under atmospheric conditions of moderate to mild humidity, contact between a galvanized surface and a stainless steel surface is unlikely to cause substantial corrosion. However, if the surfaces are in the presence of salt water or salt water air, it would be best to electrically isolate the two metals.
Thanks for this tip
Given the application here, spring lock washers are a bad idea. Switch those out to Nord lock washers that are not going to fail.
Just seen a video (albeit made by Nord lock) - very impressive. I'll investigate.
You shoud use aluminium 5083 grade - it's best suited for marine application and is much lighter than SS
Could have done - but would have needed twice as much as it's half the strength. That would have been extremely expensive, and hot dip galv steel is perfectly resistant to corrosion for internal applications. The galv, on and in, the boat was completely intact despite a decade of exposure to sea air.
You don't need stainless fasteners inside your boat where you can coat them in copper anti-seize or a film like CRC SoftSeal or both or denso tape etc. Stainless is MILES weaker than normal bolts and also tends to gall if both fasteners are stainless and you don't use an appropriate anti-seize.
Thanks for the input. Yes, for A2 fixings internally I have over-specced - using M10 - to account for the higher modulus and lower tensile strength of stainless. I've estimated the racking to be able to manage 150% of the maximum weight it would ever be asked to take, plus the cushion already built into strength ratings. The galling behaviour you mention is new to me, so thanks and I'll investigate. If concerns build, it would only take an hour or so to change nuts, or even whole fixings, for another grade of steel.
The original Norwegian build of the boat used A2 internally and A4 externally, with the exception of very large structures, which are galv.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Fair enough re oversizing them. Galling varies between grades, not sure which behaviour yours has. I learned it the hard way with screws that mostly went in, but wouldn't come out, broke off instead. Those were M6 and nylock nuts tack welded to steel. I wish I'd had my own advice back then :-D Before you try to take any apart, get some penetrating oil on them. They don't need it to free rust, but it might save you from destroying the fasteners.
On a different note, your entire fuel tanking solution is pretty interesting in design. Is there a reason you didn't simply use commodity super robust 205l drums or even a smaller size, strapped to a frame and carry a pump and/or syphon hose setup to move them to the actual tank the engine uses as needed? Seems very elaborate! When we've taken extra fuel on board for longer journeys that's how we've done it, and just lashed them so they can't move in a seaway.
Final note, that round bilge is going to be torture in the open ocean - good luck! :-D
What’s with all the hardware? Why not weld the framework?
If it's welded, it can't be altered or part-dismantled. Also, I can't weld.
Alex you could have welded those frames and saved a fortune on all that 6mm 316 stainless
Then the structure wouldn't be alterable. The stainless cost less than a day's professional welder hire.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I was thinking more of a frame with welded brackets that are galvanised so you could bolt it together in 20 mins
@@paulcollins4932 Certainly an alternative, and there's a good pro welder at our yard. But this system is robust, and whilst it took a while, wasn't quite as slow as I made out.
What price may one expect to pay for a telb such as yours?
When I bought my narrowboat about 5 years ago I almost considered one of these, Think it was a yard in Stonehaven Scotland and they were around £5000
You do realise that zinc in damp conditions will evaporate against stainless. Galvanic corrosion.
This is something I've consulted in detail with experts about, and in a non-immersed scenario, other priorities trump any great concern of SS/galv potential difference. Zinc doesn't evaporate - in a true galvanic corrosion scenario, the zinc galvanisation would corrode in preference to either steels, then leaving the carbon steel to rust next.
Are you doing a round trip with enough diesel for both directions? Just wondering how the rolly-polly nature of the hull will worsen as you burn fuel. The final 1/3 of the trip when lightship could be awful. Might consider a flex bag that could be filled with seawater as ballast. Electric pump to fill/empty.
The itinerary is now TBC, but the original plan involved an approx 30% burn to get to location (and the option to burn another 30-40% to return in an emergency). Once locked into ice, the remaining 70% would then be burned for power and heat when the boat can't rock. Indeed, various ballast options being considered. One issue is that there aren't vast amounts of near-keel voids to use for water ballast, which is clearly a lot less dense than steel, which I earmark for semi-fixed ballast.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals This makes me think of the two floodable/drainable tubes of the Macgregor 26 water keel.
Drained by planing.
Not apllicable directly to a non-planing hull though external drainpipe tubes fitted either side of the keel and then faired in?
Floodable but able to be pumped out could work. Random thought.. though arctic conditions might nobble that one.
What are you going to do for a head on the Alan considering you will be taking it out for a long time, I'm assuming you will need something better than a bucket, there doesn't seem to be a lot of room for one or Black water storage. Also how's the galley going to work if you have one, you'll need a grey water tank then too. Are you going to equip it with: Radar, AIS, or ECDIS?
Ah yes, a big question. You're right that there's not going to be sub-didvison into cabins/heads etc. It's an expedition boat, so implies a certain familiarity between team members. At the working end of the boat, the stern, basic facilities will be installed, and organic waste disposed of. The galley - heat will be from the boat's heater (it has a hot plate) and again waste disposed of, with use of safe detergents. No radar planned as yet, but radio, sat comms and AIS, yes.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals What, no bidet?!!!
@@m.dwaynesteckley4832 If you're installing it!
Did you not think about using UNI-STRUT
Had a look, but was happier with the 3mm box section.
Why, m8, why did you build up the floor with space filler, only to set the fuel tank racking right on top of it? Why not set them lower?
The floor is only a few inches high in the middle, and the real 'floor' was a horribly uneven curved shape - a nightmare to mount anything to.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Didn't you say you were using bladder tanks, though? I thought the same thing as this guy.
@@fredio54 Part of the answer is that last year's cancelled trip was a very specific one, and decisions were made for it on its own. Given Alan's more flexible future use now, some plans are to be tweaked. There'll be a video to explain, but yes the bladder/tank ratio is changing, and also, some of that LD40 foam is coming out, and steel ballast being installed. All to be seen....
Can you move the bladders of fuel easily? Are there hand holds on the bladder? Fittings for hoses? Do the bladders have vents for vapor or anything like that?
I'll do a film to show the details once the racks are cleared and readied for tanks. The bladders once full are immobile (weigh over 300kg), but are light as a feather empty and can be rolled up. They are secured with cross-straps to the racks. One bladder has a fuel supply and return JIC fitting as a backup should the plastic supply tank fail. The plastic supply tank has multiple fittings, but notably a supply and return plus an automatic roll-resistant breather valve.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals that's grand. Are you bringing spare parts for the engine?
@@John-gp9qf All the common parts yes. I'm also investigating a backup power source in case of catastrophic engine failure, but that's TBC.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Add a Generator and hybridise the drive train to allow electric drive as well as diesel? Dual purpose the generator then and electric motor is light, bonus you are not depending on battery performance in cold temps.
@@El_Croc There's a backup idea I'll tackle much, much later which involves electric drive, but for a primary system a DV48 is far more efficient than a diesel generator charging batteries, that then power a motor.
A couple of minor points:
Combining stainless and galvanized steel? Not sure that is a great idea, as the different metals could potenitally generate a bit of current whitch in turn would put oxydation on overdrive.
And wouldn't welding be a better solution than those brackets you have to fix to fit? OK, you shouldn't weld on galbanized steel, unless you clean off the galv first. (And reapply some zink or something.)
The theory and real world effects of galvanic corrosion tend to diverge in terms of the extent.... I've got fittings originally built externally on Alan over a decade ago that got plenty of sea spray, and were galv mated with stainless. Barely a layer of surface rust.
Submerged dissimilar metals - of course you're into it properly.
Why not weld? So I can alter and dismantle it. And I can't weld.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thanks for replying. Makes sense.
Just FYI spring type lock washers don't actually do anything. That's why you don't ever see them in automotive or industry anymore.
It's interesting to see this comment so much when spring locks are so commonplace. Hundreds of them in the original outfitting of the lifeboat. I have a box of nord locks for vibration-vulnerable fixtures.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals yeah it just depends on when the particular company in the particular industry gets the message. Almost nothing new these days uses them. The only exceptions that I see are every once in a while something cheap out of China has them. Nord locks are good. Thread lock is also good.
Also, handrails overhead [running the length of the cabin], as Alan bobs like a light-weight buoy, and the new table has many unforgiving angles waiting for the crew. Good luck....
Your positivity and patience for the final prepared product is endearing, Mr Ark.
that steal frame looks like over kill
For hundreds of kilos of fuel and equipment?
Why not use aluminum for some of that to help cut down on weight and price.
Aluminium has poorer strength than galv steel, so we'd have needed more of it. It's also more expensive, and we actually wanted the weight, especially low down, for low CoG stability.
Not trying to rain on your very ambitious parade but why not use these very durable IBC totes (and their metal cages) for fuel tanks... They come a very generous 1000L size (1x1x1.2m) and there is even a 640L version which is slimmer.
They don't collapse, and we want fewer tanks - more baskets for our eggs. Parade safely unrained upon.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but everywhere you drilled that galvanized it's going to start rusting your also going to get a very aggressive galvanic response between the stainless bolts and the gal. steel. You would have been better off just using 316L square tube and weld the whole racking system.
Hi William. Whilst time will tell, the advice across many forums and conversations is that whilst this scale of corrosion for mixed metals is obviously fact, and is extremely important underwater, it's less perilously black and white than you suggest. Other considerations like the tensile strength and modulus of the steel chosen for the box section are, in an internal location, likely to be more important. The theory is that directly mating 300 series SS with galv steel will cause the zinc to thin and then the underlying steel to rust, but plenty of discussions report in practice that this is very minimal, if present at all, when sea water isn't in direct contact. The racking is very visible, and can be monitored. If problems do arise, they can be tackled. On your final point, welding would be irreversible, and I wanted the option to alter or remove sections.
im really looking forward to this journey with you . also i see you fit a big heavy shelving unit on the false floor. are those 4x2 timber youre using and is it going right onto the metal hull?
The hull is glass fibre. Yes, the false floor is sat on two long rows of wooden batons. The void is filled with high strength closed-cell PU foam, which is good at load bearing too. The weight of the racking doesn't point load the floor under the vertical legs, as they are bolted a few mm above the floor on horizontal 'skids'. So the weight is spread.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals ah i see. i imagined you would have used skids for this but i saw you measuring out the 4x2 right onto the floor. thanks for the clarity
@@Islandwaterjet The very limited foamed area is earmarked for steel ballast inserts. We didn't want fuel tanks with poor access. We won't have 2000 gallons. Less than a quarter of that, and only 2/3 of that will sit on the racking. I'm not sure of the thought process behind your incessant negativity, and in listening to what you wish to hear and not what is being said. Maybe you've just had a bad day.
Episode 5??
The adhesives one.
I wonder if lifeboat like this can be converted into a submarine.
No.
Aha! So you've thought about it.
Are you planning to assess the stability with an inclining experiment once the interior fitout is complete to make sure that it is in recommended/required limits but also comfortable?
I've taken measurements to approximate the initial weight reduction, then the increase, and the movement of that mass. Also, the loss of some buoyancy foam. It means there's a best guess prior to a proper test. In the spring, yes, I'll do that, and will avoid the final fixing of ballast to make sure the trim of the boat is safe.
Geez took you long enough to plug your books
I was thinking that is one overly designed and built table!
*puts nyloc's backwards*
Dauntless is an odd place
Don’t grind with your nuts in line with the cutting disk.
Not the worst advice I've heard.
Great project guys but way more respect with that grinder. Many workplaces require a full face shield. Google “grinder injuries accident” images it’s not just your nuts to worry about. Bet you could list all these grinder hazards tft-pneumatic.com/blog/angle-grinder-accidents/
my dude wear some ear protection when drilling and grinding otherwise you'll go deaf pretty quickly
🇵🇰👍💞
talks about special marine grade stainless steel brackets that wont corrode in sea water, then bolts them to zinc coated mild steel... have you heard of galvanic corrosion ahahah
I've consulted with experts on this in depth. The items aren't immersed, so the galvanic action of the 'battery' isn't formed. More limited unlike metal caused corrosion would be limited too by the ratio of stainless to galv. Thanks for the input.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I am an expert and even the smallest amount of humidity in the air will cause them to corrode, it is without question you will see a white crust where they touch and on the A2 washers.
@@3HitRanger Thanks Weasel. The assembly has been together for some months now, often in cold humid conditions, near the sea, and no evidence as yet.
Longer episodes would be nice.
I'm getting equal numbers of comments applauding the concise lengths. There are tons of channels out there doing half hour episodes. That being said, I'm open to requests to go into certain things in more depth.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals it just seems like a 10-15 minute episode would make more sense for something like this. I dont see people turning these into arctic exploration vehicles at all. I honestly would like to see more of what goes into getting this ready for the cold and the ice.
If you have requests to see how more detailed things have been done (or will be done), you're very welcome to let me know, and I might add them to the episode plan. Worth saying I do of course offer a 100% no quibble refund on the viewing ticket price. ;)
The RUclips algorithm works best for you if the videos are 8 minutes long. You're likely to pick up a few more viewers at 8 to 9 minutes
@@Daveydoodoo that just proves how short their attention span is.
get a welder and bandsaw!
The grinder cut nicely - it just appeared slow as I wasn't applying any pressure for the filming. And welding this together would make it impossible to alter or dismantle.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals suppose those are good points! i just hate to see stuff bolted together its so much more work
to be bluntly honest I have no interest in your books, just the boat & what you're doing here. But on the flip side I'd like to see your videos monetized on youtube to be sure you're making something for my view time & likes. a Patreon wouldn't hurt either
Come on man, get rid of those bolts and buy a welder. Eliminate all those sharp edges and gain space (and a new skill) at the same time.
Ha! I would love to learn to weld. But, there's an expert at the boatyard I'd rather give business to. I'm also aware that amateur welding can be weak and give a false sense of confidence. We do want the ability to alter or dismantle the racking, so some bolting is always necessary. Sharp edges etc - yep there's a note on the vid that protection and safety aspects are one of the next jobs.
A welding arc that close to the fiberglass would be a no-no. So he would have to weld the construction inside but at a safe distance from the fiberglass and still have to bolt some parts to the hull. People also tend to underestimate the effects of welding distortion and end up with everything crooked.
Are you allergic to posting videos longer than 5 minutes?
Yes. It's a serious allergy. Please don't be flippant about it.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals lol I think the maximum amount of Attention for the Above average human is 4min 59 seconds so....😂
There are channels that have regular 30-40 minute long, detailed episodes about their boat projects, it's nice to have the choice to watch something a little less detailed and faster during a coffe break, more of a "keep up with my progress" rather than a "this is how you refit a boat right down to what size tap i'm using to thread this hole".
@@popuptoaster There will also be some detailed techie videos, but yes I didn't want to replicate the style of channel where someone basically talks to themselves for an hour whilst painting an entire boat.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I like both types, I've learnt a lot from Dangar Marine, SV Seeker and Project Brupeg for example, Ship Happens is a new one I'm watching and your's now as well of course. Just post what feels right to you, if it's good content people will watch it however long or short it is.