I would also recommend torqueing the rubber bushings with the weight of the vehicle on its wheels so the bushing is not under deflection at ride height
For the people who came here to find out how to remove both lateral links- Follow the begining of this video. Then remove the long bolts from both rear knuckles. Then remove the three rear exauhst insulators there are two right behind the bumber and one on the subframe. Then with a jack under it, remove the 4 bolts that hold the subframe up. It will drop enough to slide the long bolts out. Do the reverse to assymble.
I actually need to change the whole rear subframe on my Camry. Do you think that it can be done without taking the exhaust off and are the subframe bolts welded to the body like studs?
@@steferfootballdude13 Good luck. I'm doing this now. PB Blaster, MAP gas, beating, high torque impact, nothing. I may resort to cutting or getting one of those inductive bolt heaters and give that a try.
@@pepsiguyil I got both of them. The driver side: 24 inch breaker bar + a few hours of 8lb sledge + some impact + pb blaster soaking overnight. Nothing. Heated up to 300 degrees and it started turning with the breaker bar Right side didn't do anything at 300 degrees. So I hit with sledge. Hit it with impact for like 5 minutes (maybe work in some pb blaster?) And another heat cycle it started turning with the breaker bar
Great video, I have watched a lot of video's in my lifetime about working on cars, this was one of the most to the point and easiest to follow video's I've ever watched. Thank you for making me have faith in myself
That's what we're all about! Glad to hear we've been able to help out. For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/toyota-avalon-camry-solara-lateral-link-rear-driver-or-passenger-side/i/1assl00099?RUclips&
Hello 1A ! Hopefully next time before you do replacements let show what the cause of that part first and do replacement. Show the difference of before and after replacement. Thanks for your video.
I have found with rusy nuts and bolts that soaking the week before with a penetrating oil then on the day using heat. I have a blow torch which generates enough heat to get the nut started. Its useful to have a fire proof blanket of some kind to cover anything that could get damaged by heat.
They can cause a squeaking type noise. I've a 99 camry that was doing that. I sprayed them with a silicone lubricant spray. This helped after a few weeks, spraying them occasionally. You can find the bad one by bouncing car up and down and listening for noises, you can actually feel the binding vibration once you've narrowed it down. I will need to replace both, it's the one toward the front that was squeaking. Problem is the fuel tank has to come out. I'm curious as to whether that bolt is the same diameter the whole length. I could then cut the original bolt out and put the bolt in the other way, not having to remove fuel tank then.
Mahmood Ali ! Jack the wheel up and check it by moving wheel from 6and 12 o’lock position and 3-9 o’lock position to see the moving parts behind the tire. That the way I find out my Camry problem.
How did you cut the bushing away on the one that was stuck, and is it the same for removing both right and left side. My right side is stuck on like the bushing is pressed in or something. BTW great videos
Is this the only part in the rear on these model cars that is adjustable for a alignment? I ask bc the tire shop said that cant unlosen them or they wont tighten back up or something and theres a recall. I called and no recall. So i guess i need new ones of these ?
How about a how-to for the forward lat arm that doesn't require a torch, a sawzall, and putting a dent in the trunk to install the new bolts backwards? Dropping the fuel tank or entire subframe didn't sound like a good idea either on a 18 year old Chicago car...
Man I just tried doing mine and you're right those bolts won't budge I torch those bitches and they weren't busting loose I bought a 12 piece kit and only use two pieces
You have to be careful cutting the long bolts. I have cut the head off the long wheel hub carrier bolt that holds the lat arms thinking the arms would slide off like they did on the other side of the car but these are stuck on fast. Also the long bolt is rusted fast to the carrier. So i am now stuck. It is also difficult working with the car on jack stands as the bolts and nuts need long breaker bars. Is it possible to get the arms off the bolt? They should just slide off. I dont get how the chrome sleeves of the lat arms can weld themselves to the bolt and hub carrier. I have a new hub carrier and trailing arm and new bolt ready to go on.
I had gotten the rears trailing arms replaced on my 2001 Toyota Avalon XL, & there is no adjustment bolt on the old arm i got replaced or the new trailing arms. & would i have to get a alignment re done ?? After I replaced them???
My .02c here. Those nuts will not come lose so easily and you will end up heating them up.Also,do not measure the lenght of the control arms as the new ones will likely be slightly different but rather measure the distance between the holes. You will still alighment after this job.
I have a question if some1 can help me out...is the 97-01 Toyota Camry the same install in parts or interchangeable as a 2000 Toyota Corolla? If so is it the same steps to change this part?
+Mark Lowery Thank you for watching. Unfortunately, we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?RUclips&CTA%20Comment& 866-403-3393
@@danielailcenco5933 is the bolt the same diameter the entire length and the bushing diameters all the same. That's what I was thinking of doing. Cut bolt, then installing reverse.
@@JamesSmith-jq2jc did you try cutting the head off the bolts and installing the new ones from the back side? About to attempt the same thing when I get the new links.
No one demonstrates how to replace the forward-rearward control arm. *Hint* The rearward one only requires the removal of the nuts vs. having to remove them and the long pin or machine screw.
I wanted to replace rear lateral links myself.but I wanted to make sure I can loosen up the bolts before ordering the parts.i jacked up my car in my garage and tried to loosen up the bolts, but there was not enough room to work with breaker bar. There was no room to put any wrench on the other side . Two bolts on the sides were easy, but two in the middle gave me hard time.i had to buy the flame torch from home depot for 17 dollars. Had to heat them up . Still had to work hard. Was finally able to get them loose.gonna change them tomorrow.
Are these also called 'rear toe adjusters'? My toyota dealer claims my 'rear toe adjusters' have become bent and needs changing costing me $900 plus $100 or so for wheel adjustment. I barely feel any 'pull' though when driving so I can't really say. Is it worth paying that much? Please advise. Thanks from Canada.
Somehow one of the lateral links on my 98 Camry was very different than the other one. Not even the same part. I got new ones and installed them, let the car sit and now a few months later I started using the car so I took it to get the alignment and they told me that I had to space out the threads like he did in the video otherwise they would charge me to work on it or I could take it and do it myself and bring it back. I took it home and adjusted it to their liking but I noticed that I installed my links the opposite way with the short end near the wheel and the long end near the spare tire mold out. Does anyone know if that will cause an issue? I can change it but if it won’t cause an issue then rather not. Also if anyone on here is doing their inner tie rods make sure you either rent the tool at an auto parts store and get your money back after your return it or just buy it if you really want to own it. The rental was $100 but you get it back vs buying it on Amazon for $50 or so.
So maybe anyone here can help. Or maybe you 1a auto? The “lateral link” (not on the wheel end) is clearly installed on that pass-thru style bolt/stud. But, what is the thing called, that the bolt/stud passes through? I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, and that large metal piece that all four “lateral links” are attached has been absolutely destroyed by rust. Unfortunately, I don’t know what it’s called and therefor haven’t been able to find one yet!! Thanks in advance!
It looks like you replaced the lower strut rod. It goes from the body to lower wheel assembly. I bent mine. Dummy me put a jack under it. Do you have a video on how to replace it?
We currently do not have an auto repair video that covers this particular repair. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com +lostintime86
+Blake Manwiller Thanks for watching! That part is actually part of the spindle itself, and a bolt goes through it to connect both lateral links! 1aauto.com
But if you own a 2005 camry your NEVER going to remove any of them without lowering the entire cradle ..plus the nuts are blind and welded inside the top inner cradle .
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
What about the from link by the gas tank
I would also recommend torqueing the rubber bushings with the weight of the vehicle on its wheels so the bushing is not under deflection at ride height
For the people who came here to find out how to remove both lateral links- Follow the begining of this video. Then remove the long bolts from both rear knuckles. Then remove the three rear exauhst insulators there are two right behind the bumber and one on the subframe. Then with a jack under it, remove the 4 bolts that hold the subframe up. It will drop enough to slide the long bolts out. Do the reverse to assymble.
+James Rains Thanks for the feedback!
I actually need to change the whole rear subframe on my Camry. Do you think that it can be done without taking the exhaust off and are the subframe bolts welded to the body like studs?
Thanks James! How did you get the long bolts out of the knuckles? I've tried tapping/hitting with a hammer/punch but no movement
@@steferfootballdude13 Good luck. I'm doing this now. PB Blaster, MAP gas, beating, high torque impact, nothing. I may resort to cutting or getting one of those inductive bolt heaters and give that a try.
@@pepsiguyil I got both of them.
The driver side: 24 inch breaker bar + a few hours of 8lb sledge + some impact + pb blaster soaking overnight. Nothing. Heated up to 300 degrees and it started turning with the breaker bar
Right side didn't do anything at 300 degrees. So I hit with sledge. Hit it with impact for like 5 minutes (maybe work in some pb blaster?) And another heat cycle it started turning with the breaker bar
Great video,
I have watched a lot of video's in my lifetime about working on cars, this was one of the most to the point and easiest to follow video's I've ever watched. Thank you for making me have faith in myself
That's what we're all about! Glad to hear we've been able to help out. For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/toyota-avalon-camry-solara-lateral-link-rear-driver-or-passenger-side/i/1assl00099?RUclips&
Hello 1A ! Hopefully next time before you do replacements let show what the cause of that part first and do replacement. Show the difference of before and after replacement. Thanks for your video.
Easy when no rusts .looks like this car has never seen salt here in canada cars bath in salt in winter time ! Great video
I have found with rusy nuts and bolts that soaking the week before with a penetrating oil then on the day using heat. I have a blow torch which generates enough heat to get the nut started. Its useful to have a fire proof blanket of some kind to cover anything that could get damaged by heat.
Where can I find a video that shows how to replace both front and rear lateral control arms on a 2001 Toyota Solara?
Hello good morning, I see that there are 2 bars on each side, however I see that only one bar has been changed, the other bar has not been changed?
Hi dear.. Could you please answer my question? Does these lateral links relate to clanking sound?
Because i have that sound in my 2001 camry
They can cause a squeaking type noise. I've a 99 camry that was doing that. I sprayed them with a silicone lubricant spray. This helped after a few weeks, spraying them occasionally. You can find the bad one by bouncing car up and down and listening for noises, you can actually feel the binding vibration once you've narrowed it down. I will need to replace both, it's the one toward the front that was squeaking. Problem is the fuel tank has to come out. I'm curious as to whether that bolt is the same diameter the whole length. I could then cut the original bolt out and put the bolt in the other way, not having to remove fuel tank then.
Mahmood Ali ! Jack the wheel up and check it by moving wheel from 6and 12 o’lock position and 3-9 o’lock position to see the moving parts behind the tire. That the way I find out my Camry problem.
How did you cut the bushing away on the one that was stuck, and is it the same for removing both right and left side. My right side is stuck on like the bushing is pressed in or something. BTW great videos
I got the same issue
Is this the only part in the rear on these model cars that is adjustable for a alignment? I ask bc the tire shop said that cant unlosen them or they wont tighten back up or something and theres a recall. I called and no recall. So i guess i need new ones of these ?
How about a how-to for the forward lat arm that doesn't require a torch, a sawzall, and putting a dent in the trunk to install the new bolts backwards? Dropping the fuel tank or entire subframe didn't sound like a good idea either on a 18 year old Chicago car...
exactly, don;t wanna start messing with the tank of subframe
D
Man I just tried doing mine and you're right those bolts won't budge I torch those bitches and they weren't busting loose I bought a 12 piece kit and only use two pieces
Cut the bolt if replacing the forward links then insert new bolt with nut side by the tank
You have to be careful cutting the long bolts. I have cut the head off the long wheel hub carrier bolt that holds the lat arms thinking the arms would slide off like they did on the other side of the car but these are stuck on fast. Also the long bolt is rusted fast to the carrier. So i am now stuck. It is also difficult working with the car on jack stands as the bolts and nuts need long breaker bars. Is it possible to get the arms off the bolt? They should just slide off. I dont get how the chrome sleeves of the lat arms can weld themselves to the bolt and hub carrier. I have a new hub carrier and trailing arm and new bolt ready to go on.
YES! How do you remove the front, rear control arm????
You have to drop the gas tank to get the bolt all the way out to get it off the front of the rear
@@Dick_Phitzwell cut bolt head. Slide out. Insert long bolt with nut side facing tank
I had gotten the rears trailing arms replaced on my 2001 Toyota Avalon XL, & there is no adjustment bolt on the old arm i got replaced or the new trailing arms. & would i have to get a alignment re done ?? After I replaced them???
You would need to if you replaced the adjustable rear arms. Its best to anyway but not a must.
My 01 Avalon xl has adjustable rear control arms. They come from the factory like that
Can I repair the balance shaft instead of buying a new one, please explain
My .02c here. Those nuts will not come lose so easily and you will end up heating them up.Also,do not measure the lenght of the control arms as the new ones will likely be slightly different but rather measure the distance between the holes. You will still alighment after this job.
I have a question if some1 can help me out...is the 97-01 Toyota Camry the same install in parts or interchangeable as a 2000 Toyota Corolla? If so is it the same steps to change this part?
The locknuts on the lateral arms I received from 1A auto are larger than 24mm. My caliper says the nuts are 26.6mm. Is that a 27mm wrench?
+Matt R This video is applicable to only the 1998 Camry. If you have another model year, the wrench size may be different. Thanks for watching.
How do your remove the Rear Lower Forward control arm... That long bolt makes it impossible do I have to drop the tank..
+Mark Lowery Thank you for watching. Unfortunately, we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?RUclips&CTA%20Comment& 866-403-3393
@@1AAuto why don't you just admit it can't be done by the average person! LOL. you have to cut the bolts then install them in reverse.
@@danielailcenco5933 is the bolt the same diameter the entire length and the bushing diameters all the same. That's what I was thinking of doing. Cut bolt, then installing reverse.
@@JamesSmith-jq2jc did you try cutting the head off the bolts and installing the new ones from the back side? About to attempt the same thing when I get the new links.
No one demonstrates how to replace the forward-rearward control arm. *Hint* The rearward one only requires the removal of the nuts vs. having to remove them and the long pin or machine screw.
Cause no one s know how to do it. Mine is rust welded on
I wanted to replace rear lateral links myself.but I wanted to make sure I can loosen up the bolts before ordering the parts.i jacked up my car in my garage and tried to loosen up the bolts, but there was not enough room to work with breaker bar. There was no room to put any wrench on the other side . Two bolts on the sides were easy, but two in the middle gave me hard time.i had to buy the flame torch from home depot for 17 dollars. Had to heat them up . Still had to work hard. Was finally able to get them loose.gonna change them tomorrow.
easy to follow and informative.
Thank you for detailed and informative instructions.
These dont need to be tightened at ride height correct?
Are these also called 'rear toe adjusters'? My toyota dealer claims my 'rear toe adjusters' have become bent and needs changing costing me $900 plus $100 or so for wheel adjustment. I barely feel any 'pull' though when driving so I can't really say. Is it worth paying that much? Please advise. Thanks from Canada.
+trhl Yes these can also be referred to as toe adjusters! 1aauto.com
Thank you 1A Auto Parts for confirming it. I will take your tutorial seriously now ha..
Somehow one of the lateral links on my 98 Camry was very different than the other one. Not even the same part. I got new ones and installed them, let the car sit and now a few months later I started using the car so I took it to get the alignment and they told me that I had to space out the threads like he did in the video otherwise they would charge me to work on it or I could take it and do it myself and bring it back. I took it home and adjusted it to their liking but I noticed that I installed my links the opposite way with the short end near the wheel and the long end near the spare tire mold out. Does anyone know if that will cause an issue? I can change it but if it won’t cause an issue then rather not. Also if anyone on here is doing their inner tie rods make sure you either rent the tool at an auto parts store and get your money back after your return it or just buy it if you really want to own it. The rental was $100 but you get it back vs buying it on Amazon for $50 or so.
So maybe anyone here can help. Or maybe you 1a auto?
The “lateral link” (not on the wheel end) is clearly installed on that pass-thru style bolt/stud. But, what is the thing called, that the bolt/stud passes through? I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, and that large metal piece that all four “lateral links” are attached has been absolutely destroyed by rust. Unfortunately, I don’t know what it’s called and therefor haven’t been able to find one yet!! Thanks in advance!
bushing?
Who knows. I just know they get impossibly rust welded
Show a video where you change the front lateral arm
It looks like you replaced the lower strut rod. It goes from the body to lower wheel assembly. I bent mine. Dummy me put a jack under it. Do you have a video on how to replace it?
We currently do not have an auto repair video that covers this particular repair. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com +lostintime86
@@1AAuto I actually found the video on your RUclips. I called it the wong part name. Thanks for all the helpful. information.
Great videos guys, they help me all the time.
+Zombiholic Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How to replace the Rear Track Control Rod For Toyota Camry 1998 V6 3.0l
Where can I buy a new rear cross member for a 2000 Camry? I really need a new one mine is making a very loud clanking noise.
Junk yard
How do you get to the bolt where the gas tank is on each side?
Been fighting this same deal on a Avalon
Ive saw where people cut the bolt then insert new one with nut side at fuel tank
can you buy just the bushings without buying the whole arm?
Not worth it.
What is the part called that is connected to the lateral link on the spindle side?
+Blake Manwiller Thanks for watching! That part is actually part of the spindle itself, and a bolt goes through it to connect both lateral links! 1aauto.com
Do u have a video on the other rear lateral link for this type of car
+Michael Butcher Unfortunately we do not have a video for the other lateral link, but the process should be similar.
@@1AAuto LOL!!!!!
ruclips.net/video/3KqacOrpVxU/видео.html
But if you own a 2005 camry your NEVER going to remove any of them without lowering the entire cradle ..plus the nuts are blind and welded inside the top inner cradle .
Why didn’t you show how to do it on the passenger side?
😮yehaa
Mlm