I always take a hair pin and ream out the nozzle on a rattle can. There are always plastic imperfections inside the spray hole, and honing them out makes a Huge difference in the spraying pattern. And...if you soak your spray can in pretty hot water, it'll spray a finer mist, and dry quicker. Experiment on some old surfaces first, just to see if You like the tips as opposed to not doing them. Good job on the Tank by the way, but next time, seal that cap hole!!!
I'm in the process of renovating a 1993 Moto Guzzi V65 Florida and have spent the last 3 days repairing the petrol tank filling and sanding, priming and sanding, filling and priming, and SANDING !!!! but good prep means good paint finish. Love the video
I had to of watched this video years ago. But man did it help me to this day. I have made some crap parts look amazing since but it’s been a little while so I actually forgot a couple steps. So I searched and searched for a video to help. Some were okay but finding this video again is relaxing because i know I’ll do it correctly now once again. Thank you man. 🍻 cheers.
When your wet sanding you can stick your paper to a sponge so your fingers aren’t touching anything, also, you can use a spray bottle to wet everything down and not have to stop sanding. Great job for jingle cans man. 😎
Excellent how-to video! Thanks for showing what really happens when you paint with rattle cans. I always think I'm doing something wrong, but you gave me the confidence to continue with my project.
Kudos for not just saying fuck it, and product looks good in the end. Professional painters would not have done it this way BUT you never claimed to be a professional. Good job and keep on keepin' on!!!
The old saying about "you learn more from your mistakes" still applies even when you watch someone else make them. A very useful vid, thank you for sharing it.
This really inspired me to keep trying to get a good finish with spray cans. I know it didn't go perfectly but it's great to see how much effort you need to put in to get a top quality result. Thanks.
also use a guide coat of black primer over the grey primer. just dust the black on. then you can see your high and low spots when sanding primer. much easier and quicker.
I painted my Alfa Romeo spider,with a gun,but while colour sanding,I noticed the ear is a great way to get the paint ready for polish,as you sand the sound of the paper will change at 2500 wet,dry ( set sanding] the sound will become very quite as you get to a perfect finish.
Yep, 80 grit on primer to start is where you went wrong. 400 grit to start, dry sand only, gets it perfect. Use paint thinner to clean in between coats. For the color, 1000 grit in between coats. DRY! No need to wet sand. Then use 1400 grit in between clear coats, with a smooth final coat good to go.
this is the best video of ever saying on painting with a spray can and you've given me the confidence to do my bike I'm in the Bondo stage now and hopefully within a few days will be in the painting I'm going to follow your lead dude you're awesome thank you!
Hi.. just a few tips. Good job considering your using rattle cans. Get hold of 400.. 600. 1000. 1500 paper before you start. Count 4 seconds per 4 square inches then move over to the next area when wet sanding. Your building up way too much heat in 1 area hence your losing material. Get the top coat as even as possible then proceed with colour coat if it isn't blemish free its gonna stick out like dog shit on a pool table.
I kind of like those sanding blocks. Every time I buy a new one, I put some 60 or 80 grit paper on a sheet of glass and sand the block flat. Doesn't take a lot of work. 👍
There was a very cruciall stage that was omitted in this process because a spot part filler should have been applied on the primer coat to eliminate any scratches before the base and clear coat is applied.
"You can see I fucked up a lil bit here...... thats OK....." Gotta love spray paint. If you make a mistake, just sand it off, and throw on another coat. hahaha
Ayo i just wanna say i been paintin my car for about a month or so with spray cans, mostly flat black and this video alone was exactly what i was looking for to help answer all my questions. I appreciate it yo
I’m not gonna tell you what you should have done because you took a lot of time for a rattle can job and it turned out beautiful. How I do it is after my primer I use a 320 to get it smooth. Elimination of the scratch marks. And an orbital sander works the best. Or small hand circles. When coating lay it on like you want it to shine. Use a piece of metal material to test spray where you feel comfortable laying it semi thick. Hit that with the 600 after drying fully. I add 2 more thicker coats. Hit the ol girl with the 1000. For orange peel. Shine with 3000 and buff then polish. How you did it it should have had its shine with out all that sanding. Nice finished product. Good job bro
Not to shabby it came out nice the inly 2 cents I have to say is after sanding when cleaning off particles for next coat you shouldn’t use your bare hands . It leaves oils on your surface and can cause more issues . At least wear gloves if your not going to wipe down with a paint prep otherwise tho it still came out fantastic I’m painting my truck the same way . A lot more work I’ve got a couple coats on already my issue is I am having trouble getting an even gloss with my gloss colored color also using black . It looks wet in some areas and flat in others on my last coat . So back to wet sanding I guess maybe another coat will fix it . If not I’ll wet sand again and see if my clear coat will even it out
a nice way to practice is to get a large acrylic piece (ofc, clear) and cut them up in several 8 x 8 inch pieces, then start painting one first pretty light but many coats, and when you think youre done, take a lightsource behind the piece, it can tell you if you sprayed to little or too much etc. make sure to just paint one side tho, lol
Dude, sanding through to the primer with 800 has nothing to do with your primer. you're only putting one coat of base on before sanding... THATS why you're sanding through. give it 3 or 4 coats, then wet sand.
another way to sand primer is with a slightly/non stiff green scotch brite pad.it shapes/forms to the contour perfectly and when clogged,rinse it out,shake it dry and continue.just use light pressure and let the pad do the work.
once i seen you sand that primer with the 180 i knew what was going to happen next. this was 7 years ago so no need to explain im sure you figured it out by now in 2022 lol
Very nice result although you did it the harder way. Would have been easier to prime and sand. When it's a nice shape and texture, then paint base coat but a bit closer to the part, yet at the same speed as you did. The way you are spraying far away and angling the spray a little upwards over the part, you get a lot of dry spray landing on the part, that created too much texture for you to sand. So lets say you are spraying a bit closer at 6 inches away, continuous strokes, and overlapping the previous spray stroke by 50% and not too slowly, then you should have a very smooth surface with just a little orange peel rather than a texture. I've practised on an A2 size sheet to get more used to spraying, to get a glossy finish without runs.
Krylon works great been using it on bike frames for almost 40 years screw the purist and their ""aww you should've..." Comments. whatever works for you not everyone has 500 or 600 s laying around. I've used industrial paint before -yeah the cheaper paint.
I'm going to be painting a batwing fairing from Memphis Shades. I bought the bike used with the fairing used. I was able to get out 95% of the scratches using Novus, and now it has an almost mirror like finish on the plastic. Would you recommend a high grit sanding prior to primer, or prime it as is? The products I'm using are all from color rite so I can get a good match to the factory paint color.
The heavier the grit for sanding simply relates to MORE unnecessary sanding, the same with removing all of the paint on any item you are going to paint. The thing is, when the surface you are going to paint already has an undamaged finish leave it as is, wash it then seal the original coating and only then apply a couple of light wet coatings of primer which will also be lightly sanded, and for those who use a guide coat do it before sanding, there is more to painting than what I just stated, meaning a good prep job, so do not make extra work for youself when possible. I was a journeyman spraypainter at Disneyland in Anaheim for a lot of years and we never took any of our ride vehicles down to bare metal, with the exception of the 'subs' which were sandblasted to bare metal beneath the water line since a couple of coats of a bitumastic coating, similar to tar, would be applied to protect the hull from rusting, other than that everything was sanded with an orbital sander with 120, 240, 320 with spot priming as needed and then the final coats would be applied as needed. The exceptions to this were the autopia cars which use Dupont Chrome Illusion Paint, at $1,200.00 per quart to paint one car and a few other items which needed a little extra TLC to obtain a "show quality" finish required for our guest's appreciation while they are at our park. The thing with painting and painters is painting is an art form and not the robotic application of coatings, which I've stated before now, and some of the techniques which are presented here would never be used by myself does not necessarily mean they are wrong, it just means I was taught differenty and as long as the final product is pleasing to the eye then that's what is ultimately important.
I did mine and after letting the lacquer dry for 48 hours I wet sanded and polished it. Two days later orange peel appeared so wet sanded, applied two thick coats of lacquer, left to dry 48 hours, wet sanded and polished again. It looks great but now a week later the orange peel has returned?
I would use an hyndriotis oxide flex capacitor base with amonium sulfate enamel spray with mecury flakes then use a 70000 grit paper strapped to my man hand with cables hooked to a 300 amp battery while keeping my feet grounded and you should be holding the can approx. O00.20 centimeters away at a perpendicular angle as the dimension of the sun then hit it with a solution of hydrogen mixed with epson salts baked at 400 degrees ....thats what i would do
alex your sanding block is hollow because the bubbles and differences removed off your primer, if you would take a straight block you get little flat surfaces in the tank and you are going to see that a the clear coat
I would have removed the bump in the middle of the block so you use the whole area as it is meant to be used. Then you end up doing just what you told everyone else not to do and use your fingers going long way instead of across the so that the grooves from going along the axis of the tank will not appear and you yourself did exactly what you told us all not to do. I kept adding coats of base color and wet sanding until I got 1200 wet block sanded in-between coats, before I shoot my first coat of clear. Then I', going to block sand it with 1200 and shoot another coat of clear until I have enough on it to polish it and take all imperfections out of the top layer of clear and take it to a high polish mirror finish. Then call it done. Wax it and use it in all that mother nature can throw at me.
Did your black or anyone else's look sorta grayish after painting it ? Will the buffing make it a shiny gloss black ? I have a feeling it's because of the grey primer.
This always seems to be the theme of people that use rattle cans to paint, They don't prep their work well enough to get the finish they want, Patience goes a long way when preping anything to be painted, My rule of thumb is sand until your arms feel like they are going to fall off and then clean and look it over to be sure you got it all sanded smooth. 400 grit should be high enough to be able to paint. I start with 220 grit and work my way up to 400, The smoother your primer is the smoother your painted surface will be.
I like to use steel wool (00-000) on primer and first few coats of paint, with a thorough tack clothing to get rid of any particles. Wet sand closer to the end with 600-2000. Anything below 300 grit on anything but the worst crap or woodwork is just too rough imo.
You should apply paint a few minutes after prime for better etching,,,and I always go right into clear from paint,,it will melt to together and gives a much better shine...
Save yourself some time and energy and wet sand the high build primer with a flexible foam block and 600 grit paper and lots of water. Essentially your using the paint as a thin primer to fill the fine scratches you created with your 400 grit. Twice the work.... Thanks for the video!!
what primer did you use ? ihave been using the rustoleum automotive primer and it won't stop chipping I've been trying for a month. I read U-POL and heard it is the only way to go._I am going nuts can't figure out why the rustoleum automotive won't work.
Why did u not wet sand your primer with the 400 then six then 800 I always go to 2000 wet n dry sand build up a shine and then knock it down to 6-800 all whilst guide coating it then do the same method as u with the colour
7 лет назад+1
You are to always spray black gloss on first as a guide cost. but you do it way lighter just one pass then you wet sand it all off. Then put one first coat
I hope that you're not doing this for someone because 1- If you're billing someone your taking way more time than you need, and 2- in a few years you'll be able to see those scratch marks and other stuff you filled in with paint. That area around the filler will never look right under certain lighting. The reason is that the primer and the paint will shrink at different rates over the years and what you filled with paint will show up again. Probably the best way with spray cans for it to look good for a long period of time would be to do the bodywork, then spray any exposed metal with an etching primer. After that 2-4 coats of a high build primer and a guide coat. Sand that with 400 wet on the block (sand off the high spot and then put a sponge between the block and the sandpaper to let it follow the contour of the curves better). Here you should have done with the high build primer what you did with the paint, it would have been way faster and cheaper. Never sand through to the metal, stop as soon as you see etching primer (the reason they make it a different color). Repeat till you can remove all of the guide coat without sanding through the primer.
good gawd man,.............initial prep is key as you now know. If you can see it in your primer, you'll see it in your paint. You couldv'e saved a lot of time and a few bucks just taking your time on the primer. All you did was spray on color and sand it off.
The reason you went through your primer is because you used such a course sandpaper. Never use anything less than 400 and move up to 600. For me, personally, I don't go any higher than that but that's just my preference. Also, consider using water and wet sand, this will also help with the dust..
I tried this on a 1983 Honda V65 Magna that I'm restoring, and when I tried to put fuel in it, some of the fuel that spilled on the tank just started eating through the paint. How do I fix this?
I keep wondering why you didn't choose automotive paints like Duplicolor in the fan spray can, such as GM1 black. I Know it needs a clearcoat but you may have used less paint. It is not expensive and is readily available.
TrailBusterBrute1 Ive used Duplicolor before on my Jeep. Its ok, some may have had success with it. I had great success with Rustoleum, it super opaque (on the same Jeep). The only downside is you gotta shake the can until your arm falls off.
I'm in the process of clear coating my gas tank for my Sportster but everyone keeps telling me that it needs to be done professionally cuz what comes out of the rattle cans doesn't have a hardener and will melt away as soon as gas starts to touch it can anyone give me some facts on this matter
Great video. I found that the Rustoleum sandable primer is far better to use before you start top coating. I was sanding that stuff with 1000 grit and getting an awesome smooth finish. I used spot filling with it to get rid of scratches and other small defects. Also your sanding block is too rigid my dude. Go with a sanding sponge.
It doesn't look like you reply to your viewers, so maybe one of your viewers can help me. I have been doing paint jobs like yours for years, I had one job that I am still perplexed by. When I was finished with all of the steps, the top of the gas tank after about a month started to get several blister type bumps. I Painted the fenders, oil tank and frame all in candy apple red and none of the other parts had a problem,just the gas tank. Any body ever have an experience and a solution for this?
I always take a hair pin and ream out the nozzle on a rattle can. There are always plastic imperfections inside the spray hole, and honing them out makes a Huge difference in the spraying pattern. And...if you soak your spray can in pretty hot water, it'll spray a finer mist, and dry quicker. Experiment on some old surfaces first, just to see if You like the tips as opposed to not doing them. Good job on the Tank by the way, but next time, seal that cap hole!!!
I just sprayed clear last night, I used the 2-can method (held next to each other and used as one), to double the volume and size of pattern.
I like to use lacquer spray paint it goes on so smooth than regular spray paint and just makes you not have to sand so much in the end..
have watched quite a few videos on this but this one, showing what can go wrong and how to save it, has been the most useful - very good job
Great video. I like that it's long because you get to see all the errors and how to correct them. Thanks man!
I'm in the process of renovating a 1993 Moto Guzzi V65 Florida and have spent the last 3 days repairing the petrol tank filling and sanding, priming and sanding, filling and priming, and SANDING !!!! but good prep means good paint finish. Love the video
I had to of watched this video years ago. But man did it help me to this day. I have made some crap parts look amazing since but it’s been a little while so I actually forgot a couple steps. So I searched and searched for a video to help. Some were okay but finding this video again is relaxing because i know I’ll do it correctly now once again. Thank you man. 🍻 cheers.
When your wet sanding you can stick your paper to a sponge so your fingers aren’t touching anything, also, you can use a spray bottle to wet everything down and not have to stop sanding. Great job for jingle cans man. 😎
Excellent how-to video! Thanks for showing what really happens when you paint with rattle cans. I always think I'm doing something wrong, but you gave me the confidence to continue with my project.
Very helpful; I'm currently restoring a vintage Honda... and this is informative, thank you
Kudos for not just saying fuck it, and product looks good in the end. Professional painters would not have done it this way BUT you never claimed to be a professional. Good job and keep on keepin' on!!!
The old saying about "you learn more from your mistakes" still applies even when you watch someone else make them. A very useful vid, thank you for sharing it.
This really inspired me to keep trying to get a good finish with spray cans. I know it didn't go perfectly but it's great to see how much effort you need to put in to get a top quality result. Thanks.
also use a guide coat of black primer over the grey primer. just dust the black on. then you can see your high and low spots when sanding primer. much easier and quicker.
also your scratches would have shown up
I painted my Alfa Romeo spider,with a gun,but while colour sanding,I noticed the ear is a great way to get the paint ready for polish,as you sand the sound of the paper will change at 2500 wet,dry ( set sanding] the sound will become very quite as you get to a perfect finish.
Yep, 80 grit on primer to start is where you went wrong. 400 grit to start, dry sand only, gets it perfect. Use paint thinner to clean in between coats. For the color, 1000 grit in between coats. DRY! No need to wet sand. Then use 1400 grit in between clear coats, with a smooth final coat good to go.
this is the best video of ever saying on painting with a spray can and you've given me the confidence to do my bike I'm in the Bondo stage now and hopefully within a few days will be in the painting I'm going to follow your lead dude you're awesome thank you!
This is the best rattle can video I've seen man, fuckin' props.
Hi.. just a few tips. Good job considering your using rattle cans. Get hold of 400.. 600. 1000. 1500 paper before you start. Count 4 seconds per 4 square inches then move over to the next area when wet sanding. Your building up way too much heat in 1 area hence your losing material. Get the top coat as even as possible then proceed with colour coat if it isn't blemish free its gonna stick out like dog shit on a pool table.
Love your video man, I’m doing a restoration on a 1990 Kawasaki ninja 500 and this helped me a lot getting prepared to paint
Super useful video. Thank you very much, Alex. You have no idea how useful it was to me.
I kind of like those sanding blocks. Every time I buy a new one, I put some 60 or 80 grit paper on a sheet of glass and sand the block flat. Doesn't take a lot of work. 👍
There was a very cruciall stage that was omitted in this process because a spot part filler should have been applied on the primer coat to eliminate any scratches before the base and clear coat is applied.
"You can see I fucked up a lil bit here...... thats OK....."
Gotta love spray paint. If you make a mistake, just sand it off, and throw on another coat. hahaha
Ayo i just wanna say i been paintin my car for about a month or so with spray cans, mostly flat black and this video alone was exactly what i was looking for to help answer all my questions. I appreciate it yo
you can spray shit in matte black and it will look like... well shit
Great to see the mistakes. These are the most important parts of a great paint job.
How is the durability of the paintjob? Do you take care of it like regular automotive paint when it comes to detailing, like buffing and polishing?
I’m not gonna tell you what you should have done because you took a lot of time for a rattle can job and it turned out beautiful. How I do it is after my primer I use a 320 to get it smooth. Elimination of the scratch marks. And an orbital sander works the best. Or small hand circles. When coating lay it on like you want it to shine. Use a piece of metal material to test spray where you feel comfortable laying it semi thick. Hit that with the 600 after drying fully. I add 2 more thicker coats. Hit the ol girl with the 1000. For orange peel. Shine with 3000 and buff then polish. How you did it it should have had its shine with out all that sanding. Nice finished product. Good job bro
If you're clear coating that tank you could theoretically brush that black on and wet sand it smooth before clear coating!
Not to shabby it came out nice the inly 2 cents I have to say is after sanding when cleaning off particles for next coat you shouldn’t use your bare hands . It leaves oils on your surface and can cause more issues . At least wear gloves if your not going to wipe down with a paint prep otherwise tho it still came out fantastic I’m painting my truck the same way . A lot more work I’ve got a couple coats on already my issue is I am having trouble getting an even gloss with my gloss colored color also using black . It looks wet in some areas and flat in others on my last coat . So back to wet sanding I guess maybe another coat will fix it . If not I’ll wet sand again and see if my clear coat will even it out
To make wet sanding a bit easier poke a lil hole in the cap on the water bottle 💧 !!
a nice way to practice is to get a large acrylic piece (ofc, clear) and cut them up in several 8 x 8 inch pieces, then start painting one first pretty light but many coats, and when you think youre done, take a lightsource behind the piece, it can tell you if you sprayed to little or too much etc. make sure to just paint one side tho, lol
Dude, sanding through to the primer with 800 has nothing to do with your primer. you're only putting one coat of base on before sanding... THATS why you're sanding through. give it 3 or 4 coats, then wet sand.
load of rubbish
Why the hell he sanding a base coat? He should sanding the last clear coat not the base coat. All these spray painters should be send to Antarctica.
woukd this be the same process for painting plastic?
another way to sand primer is with a slightly/non stiff green scotch brite pad.it shapes/forms to the contour perfectly and when clogged,rinse it out,shake it dry and continue.just use light pressure and let the pad do the work.
once i seen you sand that primer with the 180 i knew what was going to happen next. this was 7 years ago so no need to explain im sure you figured it out by now in 2022 lol
So this was a video of what to not do hahah. Thanks helpful either way
Very nice result although you did it the harder way. Would have been easier to prime and sand. When it's a nice shape and texture, then paint base coat but a bit closer to the part, yet at the same speed as you did. The way you are spraying far away and angling the spray a little upwards over the part, you get a lot of dry spray landing on the part, that created too much texture for you to sand. So lets say you are spraying a bit closer at 6 inches away, continuous strokes, and overlapping the previous spray stroke by 50% and not too slowly, then you should have a very smooth surface with just a little orange peel rather than a texture. I've practised on an A2 size sheet to get more used to spraying, to get a glossy finish without runs.
Ty brother! Kewl video
Some say he's still sanding to this day 😂
Krylon works great been using it on bike frames for almost 40 years screw the purist and their ""aww you should've..." Comments. whatever works for you not everyone has 500 or 600 s laying around. I've used industrial paint before -yeah the cheaper paint.
11:15 Sound Advice Thank you it turned out good
I'm going to be painting a batwing fairing from Memphis Shades. I bought the bike used with the fairing used. I was able to get out 95% of the scratches using Novus, and now it has an almost mirror like finish on the plastic. Would you recommend a high grit sanding prior to primer, or prime it as is? The products I'm using are all from color rite so I can get a good match to the factory paint color.
The heavier the grit for sanding simply relates to MORE unnecessary sanding, the same with removing all of the paint on any item you are going to paint.
The thing is, when the surface you are going to paint already has an undamaged finish leave it as is, wash it then seal the original coating and only then apply a couple of light wet coatings of primer which will also be lightly sanded, and for those who use a guide coat do it before sanding, there is more to painting than what I just stated, meaning a good prep job, so do not make extra work for youself when possible.
I was a journeyman spraypainter at Disneyland in Anaheim for a lot of years and we never took any of our ride vehicles down to bare metal, with the exception of the 'subs' which were sandblasted to bare metal beneath the water line since a couple of coats of a bitumastic coating, similar to tar, would be applied to protect the hull from rusting, other than that everything was sanded with an orbital sander with 120, 240, 320 with spot priming as needed and then the final coats would be applied as needed.
The exceptions to this were the autopia cars which use Dupont Chrome Illusion Paint, at $1,200.00 per quart to paint one car and a few other items which needed a little extra TLC to obtain a "show quality" finish required for our guest's appreciation while they are at our park.
The thing with painting and painters is painting is an art form and not the robotic application of coatings, which I've stated before now, and some of the techniques which are presented here would never be used by myself does not necessarily mean they are wrong, it just means I was taught differenty and as long as the final product is pleasing to the eye then that's what is ultimately important.
Blue painters tape around the edges with a newspaper shielding your tanks takes a little longer but no overspray!
Great job but we ordered it Red.
Stop playin lol
🤣
Paint is paint. It’s harder to work out but it’s worth saving the money unless you already have the gear to spray.
perfect exemple on how to get the interior of motorcycle tank dirty during paint job.
Should I prime the plastic fairings or just use the paint+primer rattle cans
I did mine and after letting the lacquer dry for 48 hours I wet sanded and polished it. Two days later orange peel appeared so wet sanded, applied two thick coats of lacquer, left to dry 48 hours, wet sanded and polished again. It looks great but now a week later the orange peel has returned?
Thank you for the video. I really appreciate the information.
Nice job bro looks great! FUCK THE HATERS
Question! I used black primer on my truck today and after i wet sanded it the black turned kinda Grey... Is that normal or did I do something wrong??
I would use an hyndriotis oxide flex capacitor base with amonium sulfate enamel spray with mecury flakes then use a 70000 grit paper strapped to my man hand with cables hooked to a 300 amp battery while keeping my feet grounded and you should be holding the can approx. O00.20 centimeters away at a perpendicular angle as the dimension of the sun then hit it with a solution of hydrogen mixed with epson salts baked at 400 degrees ....thats what i would do
alex your sanding block is hollow because the bubbles and differences removed off your primer, if you would take a straight block you get little flat surfaces in the tank and you are going to see that a the clear coat
Wet sand the primer first it works out much better with the finish paint. And also finish needs to be wet sanded. Try it you will like it.
I would have removed the bump in the middle of the block so you use the whole area as it is meant to be used. Then you end up doing just what you told everyone else not to do and use your fingers going long way instead of across the so that the grooves from going along the axis of the tank will not appear and you yourself did exactly what you told us all not to do. I kept adding coats of base color and wet sanding until I got 1200 wet block sanded in-between coats, before I shoot my first coat of clear. Then I', going to block sand it with 1200 and shoot another coat of clear until I have enough on it to polish it and take all imperfections out of the top layer of clear and take it to a high polish mirror finish. Then call it done. Wax it and use it in all that mother nature can throw at me.
Protip. Use a large stiff sponge ball to stress ball to use as a sanding block and it will contour the tank
I liked watching the floor get dirtier and dirtier throughout the vid. =P
Did your black or anyone else's look sorta grayish after painting it ? Will the buffing make it a shiny gloss black ? I have a feeling it's because of the grey primer.
This always seems to be the theme of people that use rattle cans to paint, They don't prep their work well enough to get the finish they want, Patience goes a long way when preping anything to be painted, My rule of thumb is sand until your arms feel like they are going to fall off and then clean and look it over to be sure you got it all sanded smooth. 400 grit should be high enough to be able to paint. I start with 220 grit and work my way up to 400, The smoother your primer is the smoother your painted surface will be.
I learned a ton from this thanks!
I like to use steel wool (00-000) on primer and first few coats of paint, with a thorough tack clothing to get rid of any particles. Wet sand closer to the end with 600-2000. Anything below 300 grit on anything but the worst crap or woodwork is just too rough imo.
You should apply paint a few minutes after prime for better etching,,,and I always go right into clear from paint,,it will melt to together and gives a much better shine...
Save yourself some time and energy and wet sand the high build primer with a flexible foam block and 600 grit paper and lots of water. Essentially your using the paint as a thin primer to fill the fine scratches you created with your 400 grit. Twice the work.... Thanks for the video!!
PS chewing gum while you film.... mmm... maybe rethink that.. good luck.
what primer did you use ? ihave been using the rustoleum automotive primer and it won't stop chipping I've been trying for a month. I read U-POL and heard it is the only way to go._I am going nuts can't figure out why the rustoleum automotive won't work.
Why did u not wet sand your primer with the 400 then six then 800
I always go to 2000 wet n dry sand build up a shine and then knock it down to 6-800 all whilst guide coating it then do the same method as u with the colour
You are to always spray black gloss on first as a guide cost. but you do it way lighter just one pass then you wet sand it all off. Then put one first coat
blacke MATTE
I hope that you're not doing this for someone because 1- If you're billing someone your taking way more time than you need, and 2- in a few years you'll be able to see those scratch marks and other stuff you filled in with paint. That area around the filler will never look right under certain lighting. The reason is that the primer and the paint will shrink at different rates over the years and what you filled with paint will show up again.
Probably the best way with spray cans for it to look good for a long period of time would be to do the bodywork, then spray any exposed metal with an etching primer. After that 2-4 coats of a high build primer and a guide coat. Sand that with 400 wet on the block (sand off the high spot and then put a sponge between the block and the sandpaper to let it follow the contour of the curves better). Here you should have done with the high build primer what you did with the paint, it would have been way faster and cheaper. Never sand through to the metal, stop as soon as you see etching primer (the reason they make it a different color). Repeat till you can remove all of the guide coat without sanding through the primer.
After the color spray with MAX2K two part clear. It is gas proof!
No. You need to use 2k clear with hardner built in
@@rjpeck9718 they make 2k clear that comes in cans.. Eastwood makes it
great demo thanx man
Dude you need to wet sand and use a foam sanding block they are way better
18:25 This must be what it is like to have a pet xenomorph.
good gawd man,.............initial prep is key as you now know. If you can see it in your primer, you'll see it in your paint. You couldv'e saved a lot of time and a few bucks just taking your time on the primer. All you did was spray on color and sand it off.
Why didn’t you mask off the gas fuller and especially the tank when you sprayed the bottom instead of fretting about overspray?
The reason you went through your primer is because you used such a course sandpaper. Never use anything less than 400 and move up to 600. For me, personally, I don't go any higher than that but that's just my preference. Also, consider using water and wet sand, this will also help with the dust..
Dude, he used a shit ton of water and ONLY wet sanded. Did you watch the same video?
Are those paints fuel resistant?
Good video, helped alot.
Is that flat or gloss paint?
what are you scuffing? the paint over run?
I tried this on a 1983 Honda V65 Magna that I'm restoring, and when I tried to put fuel in it, some of the fuel that spilled on the tank just started eating through the paint. How do I fix this?
+nathan harrell You need several layers of clear coats to protect your base coats.
nathan Harrell that's why you quit being a cheapest and get automotive paint...
I keep wondering why you didn't choose automotive paints like Duplicolor in the fan spray can, such as GM1 black. I Know it needs a clearcoat but you may have used less paint. It is not expensive and is readily available.
TrailBusterBrute1 Ive used Duplicolor before on my Jeep. Its ok, some may have had success with it. I had great success with Rustoleum, it super opaque (on the same Jeep). The only downside is you gotta shake the can until your arm falls off.
I'm in the process of clear coating my gas tank for my Sportster but everyone keeps telling me that it needs to be done professionally cuz what comes out of the rattle cans doesn't have a hardener and will melt away as soon as gas starts to touch it can anyone give me some facts on this matter
Depends on the clear coat you use and how many layers,.do some research don't listen to what people say
You have a room in your house for spray painting lol
Alex, Would you let me know how many layers of primer did you put? and how many minutes did you wait between each layer? Thanks
+Alex Knappenberger DIY should be at least 400 maybe higher
Nothing wrong with super light first coat some people true believers in that thank u for video good job
What happened to wet sanding after the 2nd coat of primer?
" You don't need a booth", starting his video in a booth lol. I started in my bedroom
How long did you let the primer dry before sanding?
It’ll say in the can. Usually about an hour is good, you can do it after 30 minutes but I’d say it’s not worth it.
This is pure fucking comedy
whether this type of paint have Petrol resistant??
Great video.
I found that the Rustoleum sandable primer is far better to use before you start top coating. I was sanding that stuff with 1000 grit and getting an awesome smooth finish. I used spot filling with it to get rid of scratches and other small defects.
Also your sanding block is too rigid my dude. Go with a sanding sponge.
What is the paint you used
all that work .... but is it fuel proof?
Primer marks will not show when you wet sand beginning at the 2nd coat, do 3 for smooth!
you needed to put at least 15 to 20 coats of black on this to stop the primer coming through 3 or 4 coats if no good
If I use spray can, I always keep the distance of the can and the material between 15-20 cm.
It doesn't look like you reply to your viewers, so maybe one of your viewers can help me. I have been doing paint jobs like yours for years, I had one job that I am still perplexed by. When I was finished with all of the steps, the top of the gas tank after about a month started to get several blister type bumps. I Painted the fenders, oil tank and frame all in candy apple red and none of the other parts had a problem,just the gas tank. Any body ever have an experience and a solution for this?
Why don't you paint the bottom of the tank before you prime it? Then you won't have the over spray
You lost me when you poured water in the gas tank
I'm telling you that and painting sanding then doing it again 😂😂😂
Yeah me too! Lol
Easier to sand the primer than the top coat at least to 400 grit.Cheaper.4 cans of top coat?
Hower you persisted & finished your goal.
That is dope as fuk good job my dude