Episode 49 - Electrical Rough In
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- In this episode I show the process of doing the rough in of the electrical system for the house. This is the process of running the various wires from the main panel throughout the house.
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Great lesson regarding the tub. Even if the manufacturer does not recommend it, it will come in handy when 4-5 years from now when the customer decides to hire some hack to install a heated tile system then calls you to complain about the tub not working.
Great video and super neat work. Personally, I prefer armored cable with galvanized boxes; yes it’s more expensive but it’s rodent proof and puncture resistant. However I know with today’s lightweight construction, everything is done the cheapest way possible.
Such a helpful video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
NEC 250.52(8)b states that underground gas metal piping SHALL NOT be used as a grounding electrode. Not sure if the inspector caught that, but either way, I'd remove it.
This is correct. The gas pipe is not a grounding electrode. I have a ufer for that. This is the bond to the gas pipe.
250.104(B) Other Metal Piping. If installed in, or attached to, a building or structure, a metal piping system(s), including gas piping, that is likely to become energized shall be bonded to any of the following:
(1) Equipment grounding conductor for the circuit that is likely to energize the piping system
(2) Service equipment enclosure
(3) Grounded conductor at the service
(4) Grounding electrode conductor, if of sufficient size
(5) One or more grounding electrodes used
Thank you
Interesting video thank you 😊
Thanks for watching
Very nicely done sir 👏 ONLY suggestion is get paper to write down EVERYTHING, and your Shorthand so if someone else comes behind or a helper they have a reference for all of it. Also it can be another great reference tool for anyone.
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Also a good one for instruction is the SPARKY CHANNEL
I’ve watched him. Very good knowledge.
ElectricianU is my favorite.
I know this is older video. Depending on how many rooms are back to back. You would’ve saved a ton of money and space coming into the panel if you bought 12-2-2 or 12/4. This would’ve saved you plenty of time from running home runs. Also for the fridge in the garage I’d separate all circuits. Also the microwave should be on its own break as well. Other than that you did good
I priced 12/4 and 12-2-2. It was cheaper to run two runs of 12/2 vs the other..by a good amount. It did cost me more time but I had that.
Garage has one dedicated circuit for frig/freezer. I don’t think I will exceed the amperage but it can also add another circuit later if I had to.
I thought code allowed micro, gas range, and vent hood to be on the same circuit. I wouldn’t see why not. Total amp draw is way under 20.
Thanks for watching and the kind words.
Did do sperate for frig and sperate breakers for all 3 bedrooms and bathrooms and sperated microwave also,, l know there's cheaper ways that's allowed but not for me,, code says you can span lumber further than I ever would,, an finally cought up to me with mandatory 2 x 6 exterior walls its always been that way for me even 35 years ago over 40; home's all 2 x 6 walls 16 on center framing with hand cut rafters no truss 19 inches apart,, and all with 12 wire. 12 inch block basements with no stress cracks,, and yes clean uncluttered main panels with spaces for spare circuits..
Interesting Thanks👍
Smoke/Carbon Monoxide alarms do have to have AFCI protection. Code states "Outlets". Lighting outlets, receptacle outlets, smoke alarm outlets, These would be included.
Correct and they CAN NOT be on their own circuit as Ciband contemplated. This is to ensure that you notice if the breaker for your smoke detector trips.
straight all the romex cables bro.
It would’ve been good to install sub panel somewhere in the middle of the home to prevent voltage drop. That place is huge. Nice job 👍🏽.
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Yeah, if I did it over again, I might do just that. I had to make enough unplanned changes that a second panel on the other end of the house or something would have made sense.
I would like to see a video from start to finish
Very rough.
Very big tasks building this big home. You mentioned bond bar removed from the sib panel, out of sight and out of mind, and replaced with heavy #4 jumper. Any reason(s) bond bar not being used?
Not sure I am fully understanding so please correct me if I’m wrong.
For my sub panels, I installed two ground bars, one on each side of the panel, to land my grounds. That would be enough as they are both bonded to each other by the subpanel’s metal case. I just added the jumper wire between them as an extra bond, just in case some screws worked loose or anything.
It doesn’t hurt and was a piece of scrap wire.
I did not remove anything that came from the factory.
Thanks for watching.
@@Ciband sorry, my hearing is selective at time. You mentioned about bond screws that you removed and not using it and I thought I hear bond bar. My bad.
@pdan3676 no worries at all. Yeah I removed the bond screw to remove the bond between the neutrals and grounds, as you are supposed to do, and then added the wire to bond the two EGC bars.
Thanks again for watching
Those captions say you put a 15 amp for the furnace and 50 amp for fridge +😂😂
Lol, well I do mumble sometimes.
For the record it was 15A, lol.
That would be a heck of a frig though…
Now the furnace was a 15A when the backup heat was going to be propane so it was just the air handler that needed power. Since then I had to get an electric backup heat furnace which needed two 220V circuits, 50A and 60A, so the 15A furnace circuit is not connected.
Thanks for watching.
Maybe I missed it but what did you do with your ground coming from your main disconnect panel if this is a sub panel? would you still use the ground on the box? or directly to your ground bars?
The video I did on grounding and bonding my shop building would be what you want as the first disconnect is actually there due to my AHJ rules.
#6 bare ground connecting two panels for the parallel 320A service and then going to the two ground rods at the shop.
4 wire mobile home feeder connects the disconnect to the house. All grounds are bonded at the house, including to the ufer in the slab.
Sooo u guys leave the lugs up to the trimmer to do? Here in Florida rough guys do the lugs the trim guy just comes and connects his switches
Not sure how it’s commonly done in Oklahoma. Me just doing my own house, I have no idea what a normal division of labor is between rough and trim. I just did the work as I could.
I was late in getting final power to the house due to my masons being delayed.
Weird to me that you are sticking the cable into the device box without stripping the outside jacket? way easier to mark it at the right spot then strip it off then stick it into the box. I think you will have to much extra jacket in the box this way
I’ve tried it both ways and I think I agree with you.
Thanks for watching.
Code states that yoiu need to have at least 6 to 8 '' out from the Front Edge of each box !!!
You are correct. I have done this.
I don't use any 14 wire most fires are from it and it's not worthy the confusion expecially in a frig circuit as you have, the line loss in distance is what kills your only 15 amps.
Fires are from poor connections and overloaded / misconfigured circuits.
By this logic we should just use #10 for everything since it’s better than 12. Not using 14 on led lighting is just a waste of money unless you really want all your lights on a single circuit.
Voltage drop isn’t a concern with about 50 feet and a frig that pulls 7 amps.
I don’t see the complexity in color coded romex .
@@Ciband you said you used it for frig circuit, also,, lm just can't see reasoning of it, the new 14 wire is nothing like it was when I started wiring not much different then running a extension cord with several outlets,, I've built over 40 homes and learned wiring from general contractor I started with we built the homes and wired them I was wiring panels at 19 years old due to my neatness,, we would never make it with your sloppy running of wires,,
Neatness comes with time and practice. I’ll take my results for my first time and the lessons learned.
copper is copper and ohms law is ohms law. No need to overkill things. I trust the math.
Thanks for watching and the feedback.
@@Ciband isn't it your home l do them all as if they was. Take care
Old wire had 16 guage bare grounds. And the plastics got brittle They were not better then today's wire.
have some pride run it straight and plumb
It’s my first day.
Pragmatically, I tried to balance neatness with time as I was under the clock on this entire project. I also learned a lot so (hopefully) future work will be neater.
Thanks for watching.
@@Ciband it looks fine,nobody puts a level on nm cable.
We chalk a line on the face of the studs as a guide for long runs.
Why the foam fill on a few of the stud wire holes?
No good reason. Just playing with spray foam, lol.
that stud to the left of the panel has been seriously compromised WTF
Where do you work?
That information I will keep private. Thanks for watching.
I see some code violations
Thanks for seeing that. Do you mind detail in that so I can know for the future?
Thanks for watching.
and thats why you always get a 220v hot tub
up the volts and drop the amps
cause physics
ohms turn volts into heat
heat destroys wires
power equals volts x amps
every cable has ohms
sooooo
more volts, less amps
long distance....you can get more power at the business end with a thinner wire
its how we can send like 30 brazillian volts cross country at .4 miniamps but it increases overall efficiency when transformers are placed as close to the business end as possible
to conclude
every wire has resistance
resistance drops volts, but not amps
long wires, drop volts but dont drop amps
so....if youre sending big power far, increase volts, because if you send low voltage far, you need an exponential more amount of amps to maintain total power
but then again....heat is a deal
cant skimp too much
looked at the way he ran all homeruns, it was not nice and neat they were look like damn snakes.
Yikes…. Hire a professional.
Thanks for the feedback. Any particular areas that you thought I messed up on?
@@CibandAs far as I can tell you did a really good job and I appreciated the video. A lot of the people in the comments are just being very nitpicky lol. Especially all the people who are criticizing you for using 14 gauge wire. There is nothing wrong with using 14 gauge wire as long as the circuit doesn't require anything more then that like a bathroom or kitchen or some dedicated circuit.
Thank you for the kind words, and thanks for watching.
I can’t understand the 14 gauge arguments, lol. Gauge == required amps and voltage drop. That’s about it. Nothing complex.
Not very professional , just sayin