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Noice

Is the rebar elevated above the gravel? Hard to tell on the video.

The forecast said primer showers

Looks like you beat the rain. We got 10” in the past two days.

What is that wrench called?

Do you also need to remove the sway bar link end?

those knockouts are 1/2 and 3/4

Hey man, good video. Are you still using this storage system?

🔥

NEC 250.52(8)b states that underground gas metal piping SHALL NOT be used as a grounding electrode. Not sure if the inspector caught that, but either way, I'd remove it.

I know you need to do this work when it is dry, but I’m amazed you are doing this in 100 degree heat! Stay safe!

I should wait until end of video, but judging from the length of wire those lights came with, LV? In that case, smart move! The code has all types 5' rules for pools, but a few low voltage exceptions as well.

Why do you know so much of everything

Cable Glands

I would recommend using rebar before concrete or Gunite.

2013 has power locks and windows

I bought amazon 10 inch for my 2013 jeep patriot but rear camera is on and off.

Extremely helpful. Im building my pool and researching a ton about wiring this up, videos are not useful. Wondering if you can do an in-depth video of how everything is exactly wired in the OmniLogic. Thanks!

Were did you source the feeder cable?

Great! Thanks for the video...I'll get that wrench... I see your lower control arm is torn also.....

armour plates dont look backwards to me?

Looks good and nice having the magnet weapon option

Love the idea of magnetizing the bases!

I may have to try that way

if it's going to be in the wall i would use a metal box not cheap plastic , i would add something like 1 by 2s to those studs and make a door ,or use an old cab. door and if your going to cover the pipe DON'T USE that cheap flex ,use gal. sheet metal pipe . p.s . i just picked up a pro clean for my dryer BUT IT'S GOING TO BE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE WALL ,i hope i helped you .

@6:31 Seems counter intuitive that you are talking about the ground wire on the lug on the left, but there is a green screw on the right that would seem to indicate put ground connections on the right, and neutrals on the left. (As if there really is such a thing as a neutral -- more Negative connection, after load connection.) I'm more in favor of supply leg, and return leg.

Connected a flex line with quick connects to my new gas grill and it doesn’t get above 320 degrees. Is there something I’m missing?

Wobbly and Ghetto usually lasts for years. Good work!

In the right hand corner at the bottom, there's a knockout specifically for the ground wire.....

Yeah. I am suggesting that you actually protect that ground wire running outside the panels. I have used what is referred to as an armored ground. It's a 3/8" steel spiral flexible conduit around a ground wire. It can be purchased separately. Adds a layer of protection to that copper wire... And it can be done still even though your done with every thing else...

I am totally perplexed, for a couple reasons. First, self-tappers drill their own holes. You use them so that you don't have to do a pilot hole. They tap themselves, hence the name. More importantly, unistrut **already has holes** in it so that you don't have to do this. Like, loads and loads of oblong holes so that you can put them together in just about any position you want. They are made to be attached to each other with nuts and bolts, or with nuts and all-thread...fender washers would be sufficient to prevent the bolts from pulling through. Bolting these together is way sturdier and much stronger than using screws AND it's less work. Leave the drill bits and the screws in their respective packages next time. The last thing I would say is that I believe it would be much easier, in most applications, to plant each vertical pole in the ground individually, level them, and THEN assemble the horizontal bars. It's not wrong to do it the way you did but it's more difficult, and I think you have turned a very simple project into a major operation. But at the end of the day you tried a thing and completed the thing, and despite what I have said above I would bet that your frame works just fine. B+

well this work for a large full grown dog it is a lot cheaper than a kennel

We Zg Xzv😊

I would get a mechanical inline timer, to prevent forgetting to turn the gas off. Amazon has them. It can be set for up to an hour, or bypassed by turning to ON.

You're not supposed to use galvanized pipe for propane. And what's with all the pipe dope? You only need a dab where the threads meet, not all over the outside of the fittings. Looks like s***, but I'll still watch and like.

Why aren’t dryers just installed on outside walls straight out with everything very accessible? This seems like a totally overcomplicated process? What’s the thinking? (Non American)

Might help with cooling if the miners were up off the floor, maybe on wire racks.

Not trying to be a jerk BTW. I apreciate your enthusiasm and see you have went all out with the setup. But I was making $20-25/day GPU mining with only a 2k setup. 4 cards. I ROI'd on my gpu's in 6 months and after ETH switched, the gpus went down in value by 1/2 and now are worth 1/4. All that for $5 a day bro... might just be better to buy bitcoin.

It is only profitable once you pay off the cost of the miners. Trying to re-sell them after the halving will be a nightmare. look what happened to GPU's after ETH switched from POW to POS.

Can you explain me about halving of Bitcoin?

💞 *promosm*

I hope you waited until after the inspection to crimp that pipe and I really hope you made all the crimped ends to all face running outwards so the lint didn't get caught 🤦

This worked great for me. Thank you! The only trouble I had was it seems like I had to configure the sensors once with the Android app they are supposed to use before ESPHome would see them.

I’m not trying to be funny but are you just worrying about appearance. If so I would purchase an old metal locker u know the kind we used in school. Push it against the wall to hide it Store paint tools whatever inside of it. Oh I wanted to ask you if the flex duct is up to code since it’s inside a wall. Not being smart just concerned for you and family

Code states that yoiu need to have at least 6 to 8 '' out from the Front Edge of each box !!!

Did you use a drill for the magnets?

Nice work and commentary. Your electrical rough in video is also well done.

Those look great, just a few edge highlights would really make them pop

So as you may already know the main disconnecting means for the steel structure panel must be on the outside of the structure. You should also bond the the steel structure to the ground bar of the main panel inside the structure. (Bonding the steel structure is also acceptable in the first means of disconnect on the outside of the structure.) The main ground for the structure should have been a ufer which is a concrete encased electrode that should have been poured with the slab so the slab will be in the same equipotential bonding plane as the steel structure. Your setup will work but it is not to code. Hire electricians people. Insurance may not cover any damages or harm done to personnel if you do not install your equipment to code. If I were you I would also install a disconnecting means attached to the outside of your home as a disconnecting means in case firefighters having to quickly turn off the power without having to search for the disconnecting means on your steel structure. Torque all of your lugs down to spec and mark them with a paint marker. I would also use a #4 bare copper for the main ground. 2023 code now requires all main panels to have surge protection devices. These will hopefully protect any circuit breakers with ground fault protection or arc fault protection circuitry along with potentially protecting equipment in use. I hope this helps some folks out there but still hire an electrician please.